scientific measurements on hair & skin professional objective diagnosis at all stages of the...
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Scientific Measurements on Hair & Scientific Measurements on Hair & SkinSkin
Professional Objective Diagnosis at Professional Objective Diagnosis at All Stages of the TreatmentAll Stages of the Treatment
Diana Khazaka, COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronicDiana Khazaka, COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronicCologne, GermanyCologne, Germany
Beauty Eurasia, June 2007, Istanbul, Türkei
IntroductionIntroductionThe days are over when a dermatologist or the esthetician only looked at the skin to make a diagnosis and to decide about the following treatments and to recommend skin care products to use.
For almost 20 years now there is scientific equipment available to measure different parameters on the skin.
These kind of measurements are already standard for the cosmetic industry to do efficacy testing and claim support in their laboratories and also in dermatological research. Hundreds of studies prove their worldwide use.
In R&D of the cosmetic companies to test the products in each state of the development for its efficacy and to support their claims
In independent testing laboratories to do the final documentation for the different products.
At the point of sale (retail area) to determine the customers skin type and to advice the best suitable products as a strong selling and promotional instrument.
Use of Skin Analysing Methods in the Field of Use of Skin Analysing Methods in the Field of CosmeticsCosmetics
• Hydrolipidic Film of the Skin Hydration Sebum pH-Value• Transepidermal Waterloss (TEWL) • Skin Color: Melanin & Erythema• Elasticity & Biological Age
Overview over Overview over Objective Skin Measurement ParametersObjective Skin Measurement Parameters
• Elasticity & Direction of Fibers• Skin Roughness & Wrinkles• Skin Smoothness • Skin Thickness• Microcirculation• Desquamation • Sebum Production (Qualitative) • Skin Surface Stripping• UV-Spots
Overview over Overview over Objective Skin Measurement ParametersObjective Skin Measurement Parameters
Information on the SkinInformation on the SkinThe Structure of the Skin
Epidermis
Dermis
Subcutis
Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin The Hydrolipidic Film on the Skin SurfaceFunctions:- consists of sebum and moisture- protects the skin from drying out, UV radiation - keeps it supple - prevents the penetration of harmful external substances (e. g. germs) due to the natural acid protection barrier
Stratum Corneum
External Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film
Sun exposure Ambient conditions (temperature and r.H. /
seasons/ climate) Life Style (e.g. sports/ vacation/ food/
smoking and alcohol/ use of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, clothing)
Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin
Internal Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film
Temperature regulation mechanisms Body region Age Sex, race, genetic dispositions Physical exercise and emotional state Biorythm
Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin
Different for each body site, depending on the thickness of the stratum corneum and the number and activity of the sweat glands
The highest on the face and in the palms of the hands
On the extremities however, the hydration is much lower
Highly influenced by temperature and rel. humidity
Hydration of the SkinHydration of the Skin
Moisture Measurement and Skin AgingMoisture Measurement and Skin Aging
The moisture content of the skin surface depend on the ageOf a person. A child’s skin moisture is very low, that of an adult (between the age of 20-40 years) it is its maximum, while a senior’s skin moisture content becomes lower again due to the decreasing storing capacity of the Stratum corneum.
High
Medium
Low
Child Adult Senior
Measurement of Skin HydrationMeasurement of Skin Hydration
Capacitance measurement, worldwide used as the standard quick and easy measurement small penetration depth to make sure to measure in the very first layer of the skin Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurements Small measuring head allows measurements on all body sites
Oil/Sebum of the SkinOil/Sebum of the Skin
Sebacceous glands throughout the whole body but mainly in the face (T-zone), on the scalp, and on chest and back
Sebum in
µg/cm²
200
100
10
T-Zone Cheek Chest/Back Hair Arms/Legs
Oil/Sebum of the SkinOil/Sebum of the SkinAlso the sebum content depends on the age of a person. As sebum secretion is controlled by hormones, the skin of a young child is dry whereas the skin of a teenager is oily. With increasing age the sebum content decreases again.
Oily
Normal
Low
Child Teenager Adult Senior
Measurement of Skin OilMeasurement of Skin Oil
Photometrical measurement, worldwide used as the standard Measurement only sensitive to oil not to waterQuick and easy measurementConstant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurementsMeasurements on all body sites, even hair and scalp are possible
Each hydrolipidic film is an individual combination of moisture and sebum. Many customers are not aware of the fact that even though their skin feels oily it can be very dry
(dehydrated at the same time).
Oil +
-
- + Moisture
Very dry skin
Very oily skin
Dehydra-ted skin
Slightly dehydrated skin/low oil
Slightly dehydrated skin
Slightly dehydrated skin/oily
Low oil
Optimal skin
Oily and dehydrated skin
Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin
pH-MeasurementpH-MeasurementThe hydrolipidic film on the skin which consists of moisture and sebum has a certain pH-value of 4.0 to 5.9 (in the acidic range). The pH-value varies for different age, sex and body sites.
Skin PigmentationSkin Pigmentation
The production of melanin is the skin‘s main protection mechanism against harmful UV-radiation. The higher the pigmentation, the better the skin is protected against sunburn. With increasing age pigmentations spots show more.
Easy, quick and economical measurement of evenslightest changes in skin color Quick and easy measurement Constant but low pressure of the probe head providesstable reproducible measurements Small measuring head allows measurements on all body sites
Measurement of Skin Measurement of Skin Pigmentation & RednessPigmentation & Redness
Elasticity & Biological AgingElasticity & Biological Aging
Suction measurement, worldwide used as the standard (skin is drawn into the
aperture of the probe and released again) Measurement of firmness and elasticity, thus providing the biological age of the skinQuick and easy measurementConstant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurementsMeasurements on all body sites
Skin elasticity of a 50 year old (red) Compared to a 20 year old (blue)
The older the skin the less the the firmness (higher amplitude) and less elastic (not returning to the original position after the suction is released.
Elasticity and Firmeness at different skin sites: under the eye (very low) at the temple (low) at the inner forearm (better)
Comparisons of Different Ages & Body SitesComparisons of Different Ages & Body Sites
Elasticity decreases with increasing age
Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin
TEWL-Index-MeasurementTEWL-Index-Measurement
Skin is a barrier for the inside of the body to the outside environment.It is in constant metabolism with the outside by water evaporating through the skin. Whenever even a slight damage happens to this barrier, increased transepidermal waterloss can be found. Thus this is an ideal parameter to quantify the barrier function of the skin.
Skin Temperature MeasurementSkin Temperature Measurement
The temperature of the skin is directly related to its microcirculation. The more circulated the skin is with blood the higher the temperature. Comparing the skin at well circulated areas (e.g. the side of the neck) to other areas (e.g. face or legs) give interesting results.
Camera ImagesCamera Images
with a special UV-light source
Very impressive images of the skin structure, dry skin, lines & wrinkles, desquamation, hair quality, dandruff, pigmentation underneath the surface, etc.
Comparison aged vs. yound skin
Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light
Comparison dry vs. normal skin
Craw feet Impurities
Spots/Lentigo
Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light
Hair ends
Dandruff Nail
Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light
Colored camera imagesColored camera images
Very impressive images the skin structure, spots, pores, lines & wrinkles, hair, rednesses, scars, etc.
Special TapesSpecial TapesTapes to show the sebum production (qualititatively)
and the desquamation (dryness)
of the skin with the adhesive tape
especially well visible with the Visioscope cameras. The oil production can be monitored live in real time.
Full PhotographyFull PhotographyTo look at:Spots on the colored imagePoresLines & wrinkles“UV- like”- image for educational purpose.
Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Fieldwith Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field
measures:sebum on skin & hairmoistureelasticitypigmentation for sun screen recommendationon a scale from 0-99
In addition the camera images can be seen on the built-in monitor.
Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Fieldwith Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field
How to use the Measurement Methods How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practicein the Esthetic Practice
Patient anamnesis:- Visual, questionnaire & scientific skin measurements: What is the skin type?
- Which treatments should be done according to the individual skin type?
After the treatment:- Show short term effects- Determine future treatments
Very important: - Put together a set of products for the customer to use at home (cleansing, day care, night care, additional care) for the individual skin type of the patient.
- For the next session check changes in the skin according to the use of products.
- Make the customer a regular customer!
How to use the Measurement Methods How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practicein the Esthetic Practice
Benefits for the Customer:Benefits for the Customer:1. Using a unique service and knowing
exactly the actual state of the skin (very impressive and convincing)
2. Seeing the necessity and the efficacy of treatments
3. Advice of a complete care system for their individual skin
4. Feeling well served and are likely becoming regular customer
Thank you for listening and Greetings from Cologne, Germany
www.courage-khazaka.de