saveur-2011-04-apr

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90 HANDHELD MEALS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

Savor a World of Authentic

Perfect

GrilledCheesePage 44

World's Best ,Breads andCondimentsPages 46 and 76

MakeYour

Own DeliMeatsPages 18and 100

11Must-VisitPhiladelphiaHoagie ShopsPage 48

137April 2011saveur.com

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T H E G R I L L E D

CHEESEANDW_ H

H IS TO R Y O F AN AMER IC AN C LASS ICWhile the concept of cooked cheese, butter, and bread may be as old asthe ingre-

dients themselves, it's hard to think of a foodie phenomenon more American than

the grilled cheese sandwich. Join us as we delve into the story of (his tasty treat,

brought to you in partnership with Kerrygold.

T he a ctu al w he n a nd w he re is u nce r-

t ain , b ut mo s t c on te nd th a t t he g rille d

c he es e firs t a pp ea re d in th e U nite d

S ta te s a s a n o pe n-fa ce d s an dw ic h

in the ea rly 1 92 0 s, d ue to th e ris ing

a va ila bility o f p ro ce ss ed c he es e. T o

ma ke u se o f th is a ffo rd ab le in gre di-

en t, A merican s s to od o n th e s houl-

ders of giants s uch as the Croque

Monsieur an d Panini, and created

t he f ir st g ril le d cheese s andw ic h.

O ve r t im e, a s econd s lice of bre ad w as

add ed, m aking for a m ore s ubs tantial

m eal, and the m odern grilled chees e

s an dw ic h w as b orn .

T oday, s andw ich lovers experim ent

w ith a w ide varie ty of cheeses and

cooking methods . But whether it's

m ade w ith cheddar or Sw is s, bro iled

o r f rie d, if y ou 've g ot cheese , but te r,

an d b re a d , y ou 'v e g ot a tru e Americ an

classic.

T HE U LT IM AT E

GR IL LE D C H E E S E SA N DW

Serves2

The secret to making a perfect grilled chwich is slathering the bread with buttecrisps it in the pan, and cooking it overwhich brings out the subtle flavors of

Kerrygold Dubliner, with its unique tenutty taste, is great for grilling,

4 tbsp, Unsalted Kerrygold Butte

softened

4 V2-inch-thick slices sourdough

7 oz. Kerrygold Dubliner Cheese

Spread butter evenly on both sides

sliceof bread. Put half the cheeseon

and half on another. Top each with

ing bread slices. Heat a 12-inchskillet over medium-low heat.

~2~

Add sandwiches to skillet and coo

minutes, flipping once with a meta

until golden brown and crusty on bo

Transfer sandwiches to a cutting b

slicein halfwith a knife. Servewarm

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Chutney, C i lan tro,

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a nd Toma to

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AD VE RT ISE M EN T

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There's a time

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there's a time

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Availableon Boeing 767 and 777 aircraft. Americ31lAirlinesand M. com are marks of American Airlines, Inc.

oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2011 American Ai rlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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SAY

he Sandwich ssBehold the sandwich! When we unwrap a favorite lunchtime meal, consider its delectable filling

take that first, longed-for bite,we repeat a ritual that we've enjoyed since childhood. There's some

instinctive about our desire for a sandwich: While working at our desks, rushing down the street,

stealing a snack beforebed, itcomforms to our busy lives,comforting us on the go.But it's also ameawe can sit and savor,whether we're in our own kitchen, spreading peanut butter on toast, or at a Pa

cafe, slicing into a sumptuous croque monsieur. All around the world, terrific sandwiches ab

Mexico's spicy tortes; India's chutney-dressed vada pav; Vienna's elegant canapes; Philadelphia'sing hoagies; Italy's fragrant panini. In this issue, we devour them all, starting on page 38.

Cover Dagwoodstmdwiches PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL KRAUS

C U ST O ME R S E RV IC E : Have a que stio n? A probl em? He re's. h ow to co ntact us. For subscript ion-rel ated q uerie s. custome r service is availa ble 24/7 onl ine- at SAVEUR_COM/CS or cal l 386/447-25to P,O, Box 4.20235, Palm Coast, Fl32142·0235, Occasio nall y, we make portio n. 01 ou r sub scri ber li st a vai labl e to caref ully screen ed compan ies tha t o tter products and services we think mayest to you. I I y ou do not want to receive these offers, please advise us at 386/447·2592, Send all editorial questtona.complstnts. and suggestion, to 15 East 32 nd Street, New York, NY 10016, You ma

our editorlal deportment vi. I., at 212/219-7420, or e- m oil usat [email protected]. Fo r con tent reuse a nd p errnlsslo ns. pl ease conta ct Brion Kolb .t Wri ght' s Med ia" bkol b@wrigh tsmedl a . com or 877

Number 137 save u

mailto:[email protected].

mailto:[email protected].

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14FirstMom had a sandwich for every craving, each

one made with Jove.

By james Oseland

17FareThe world's most beautiful sandwich blog;

seven delicious reader creations; nine addictive

chip varieties; fresh-smoked ring bologna; the

history of sliced bread; homemade deli meat;

sandwiches in arts and letters; plus Agenda, and

more.

26 SourceThis Los Angeles store sells the country's most

eclectic and international array of high-quality

soda pop. By Karen Shimizu

29EssayFor nearly two centuries, sandwich recipes in

cookbooks have chronicled an American obses-

sion. By Sara Dickerman

34 ReporterThe quest for real Jewish rye bread-a-chewy,

crusty, and bursting with flavorful seeds-takes

two seekers to the heart of [he Midwest. By jane

and Michael Stern

8 saveur.com Number [37

98 In the Saveur KitchenThe elegance and balance of the BLT; how to

make the perfect deli-style roast beef; seven

thirst-quenching sandwich beers; must-havesandwich equipment: a salute to the frilly

roorhpick; how to wrap a sandwich to attain

maximum flavor.

104 PantryHow to find the ingredients, equipment,

resources in this issue. B y B en Mims

108MomentEnough falafel to feed more than 50,000.

Photograph by Anwar AmrolAFPIGetty Im

Fare

Pickled Chicken Roll 13

Israel! Schnitzel Sandwich 88

l ml ia u B ee f . . , ., , . , , ., . . , ., , . , .. , . . , ., , . , .. , . . , ., , . , .. 8 9

M an 'o us he ( He rb ed V eg et ab le F la rb re ad

Sandwich) 89

Mozzarella Dream $9

M uffuletta 89

PO,"cULl Maracucho (Fried Plantain

Sandwich) ,.. , 90

Pimento Cheese Sandwich 90

Pork P"<J' Break fas Sandwich 90

Pulled Pork Italiano ..".,..,.".., ,..,..,..,.., ,9 {)

The Reuben .,.".,.. .."."... .. . , .. ."., , ., . .. .",. ., ., 90

Essay

Fancy Sandwich Loaf. . ... 3 2

Sandwiches

Asalrado Vegetariano (Stir-hied

Vegetable Sandwich) ..... "., 86

Baccn BUHy ....... 86

Banh Mi (Viecnnmese-Scple Sandwich) ,.86

Californ inSandwich ,.,.,.,..,.,,.,.,.,..,.,,.,.,. 86

Cern i ra P o bl a n . . ( P ue b la - Sr y le

Sandwich) ..,......... , , ,.... 86The Chuck Schumer , ,., , ,., ,., , ,., ,., ,., 86

Crab Cake Sandwich ,., , , ,., , , ,., , 87

Creque Madame {Ham and CI, ,, ,- ,, Wi,h

Fried Egg) , , , 87

Cubano (Cuba" Ham and Cheese

Sandwich), ,.,,....,.,,.,,....,.,,.,,....,.,,.,,... 87

" 'I l, e D a gwoo d , ., . . , . . , . , , ., . . , . . , . , , ., . . , . . , . , , . , .. , . 88

Egg and Watercress Sandwich , 88

Elena Ruz {Cub,", Turkey Tea

Sandwich) 88

Fried Calamari Sandwich ,., ,., ,., 88

Fried Tomaro Hoagie .,. ,.".,. ,." ".,."., ., .".,88

' T he G a c sb y 88

Roast Pork Sandwich ...

Sardine Sandwich . .____ .____ ._____91Sardine" Sandwich Wi[h Horse-radish

Cream ,., , ,., ,., ,., 91

l ' he Schmie r er , . , . . , ., . . , . , . . , . , ., . . , . ,. , . . , . ,. " ., . ". , ., . 91

Sloppy Joe , 91

SPi\M and Cheese Sandwich nStrummer M ax ." 92

Sweetbread Pi,a ",., "., .. , "., .. , "., .. 92

Torte Ahcgada (Mexican "Drowned I}

Sandwich) , 9.2

Vada Pay (Pocaro Fri tter Sandwich), , ., .. , 92

Salads

Blue Ribbon', TUllO Salad 93

Cajun Shrimp Salad .

Ccronarion CI, icken .,.. , . , , ., . . ,. . , ., , . , .. ,

Katz's Chopped Liver ,.,.,., ,.,.,.,

Lobster Salad ,

Ne! man Marcus Chicken Salad

Sa [at i ' Z . Yalrs ~Gribov (Russian

E gg an d M us hro om Salad) .,.,...,..,

Slldesaiac (Danish Smoked Herring,

B ee r, a nd P ot at o Salad)

Souchem 1- 1 am S .lad

. . .. . .. 9 1

Condiments

Mecbwiya (Roasted Pepper Salad),

Pickled BlueberriesSchug (Yemenhe Chile Relish]

Ton knrsu Sauce ....,.,..,.....,.,..,..... ,.,..,

DessertsFrcmage B l i H ' I I : : : : J Banana, and Membrl

Sandwich , ,.,.. , ,.,.. , ,.,..

I CC "C re am L or i ( Si n g ap orc ' Ice Cream

S a ndw ic h ) , .. , . , . . , . .. .. , ., . . , . .. .. , ., . . , . .. ..

P ok P ok (T ha t-S ty le Ic e C rea m

Sandwich) ,.,,.,..,....,,.,..,....,,.,..,....,

KitchenP er fe cc R oa st Beer . . .. . . , . , . . .. . .. , , . , .. . .. . ..

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Kahlua & Club2 ruts Kahl' Sodaua I CILlb sod"

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J oin u s fo r S AV EU R C ooks ,

c ui i na r y c la ss es c re ate d e xc l u s iv ely

for S ur L a T able by th e e dito rs o f

S AV E UR M ag az in e. B rin g h om e

th e c u i si ne s, re ci p es a nd

te ch niq ue s fe atu re d in S AV E UR ,

TIU ART I" ·"nIL OF COQIONG

PRESENTS

~ ·SAVEURCOOKS~

F IND YO UR NE ARE ST LOC AT ION SURLATABLE .C OM ~ 80 0.2 43 .0 852

10 saveur. com Number 13 7

S A V E U RmITOR-IN-CHIE~

James Oseland

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Dana Bowen

EXECUTIVE fOOD EDITOR Todd Coleman

DEPUTY EDITORS Betsy Andrews, Beth Kracklauer

MANAGING EDITOR Greg Ferro

ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Roseann Marulli Rodr

SENlOR EDITOR Gabriella Gershenson

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Karen Shimizu

ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR Ben MimsKITCHEN 01RECTOR Kellie Evans

ASSISTANT EDITOR Marne Setton

ASSISTANT KITCH EN01 RECTOR Max Iattoni (acting)

EOITORS·AT·lAPGE David McAninch, Sofia Perez

WI NE EDITOR David Rosengarten

COP\' EDITORS Marjor ie Backman, John Clark

ART 01RfCTOR David Weaver

PHOTOGRAPHY 01RECTOR Larry Nighswander

PHOTOGRAPHY ED ITO RMildred Mattos

WEBSITE 0 IRECTOR Ganda Suthivarakom

WEBSITE EDITOR Helen Rosner

WEBSITE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Anna Stockwell

ASSISTANTS

Judy Haubert, Jo Keohane, Yewande Komolafe, A

Petito, Sasha Stoecklein, Daniel Treiman (Kitchen

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Vogel

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Blanc, Tom Chino, Sara Dickerman, Naomi Duguid

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GROU P PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jeff Cassell

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P u b Iic ation A gre em e n! N um be r: 40 61 26 0 8

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Forcustomer service, ;s ,aveur.com/cs;

or (all 386/447·2592,

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BELGIOIOSO@

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-Try th is fre sh , s li gh tly ta n.g y ch ee seon your next BLT

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2J(i2rh ' lJa i ( y [roI ll 91'6:;/; 1iJ000aI:'JJ{If .f . Rec ip es a n d mo re a i b elg io io so .c cm m ilk fro m c aw s tre ate d w ith a rti fi ci al h orm

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Associate Publisher: Ben Rifkin 303/253-6417

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310/227·8957Northwest Group Director: Allison Berkley 415/875-

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14 saveu r.co rn Number 1J 7

FI RST

Love, With the WorkThe sandwiches we adore are delicious reflections ofwhowe a

MMOM, WHO PASSED away in 2010,

was by her own admission not the

world's greatest cook. But while she generally

did everything in her power [Q avoid spending

time in the kitchen, she knew how to make

one heck of a sandwich. This was food that

nourished the body and pleased the soul: cream

cheese with chopped black olives between slabsof brown bread, say, Ot maybe smoked liver-

wurst spread thick on white bread with rings

of raw onion, iceberg lettuce, Grey Poupon,

and mayo. Or my all-time childhood favorite:

a luscious protein bomb of Genoa salami sliced

gossamer-thin and piled onto rye with butter

and a liberal grind of black pepper-the oppo-

site of fancy, and the very definition of good.

The sandwiches Imake these days are direct

descendents of my mom's creations: uncom-

plicated, with just the right combination of

textures and flavors, and the power to satisfy

my most fickle cravings. Like my mom, Ianalmost always make a fine sandwich using

whatever Ihappen to have in the fridge. The

other day, that turned out to be not a whole

lot: a small hunk of buttery tomme-style cow's-

milk cheese I'd snuck out of the SAVEUR test

kitchen, a near-empty jar of sun-dried toma-

toes swimming in olive oil, a handful of

super-peppery arugula, and half of a day-old

baguette. I popped the bread in the oven co

bring it back to life and diced up JUSten

tomatoes to lend a tangy sweetness. Then

the warm baguette, nestled in a few pie

the cheese, topped them with the tomatoe

some of those spiky greens, and presto!

than five minutes, I'd created what has

be one of the world's most winning lun

(That's me, in the above photo, about toda much less, urn, artful Subway sandwich

That's what I find so extraordinary abo

sandwich: As commonplace and convenie

this food is, it counts as a crowning cul

achievement, a nearly ins tan taneous refl

of our tastes and whims. The more kin

sandwiches I tried while putting togethe

special issue of SAVE UR -and Iasted d

from English tea sandwiches to Israeli

schnitzel-the more Iame to believe th

really is the perfect food.

So, this issue is for you, Mom, and

the other cooks (and non-cooks) out therhave found ingenious ways to put a littl

between two slices of bread. -James Os

Editor- in- Chief

"The Family Reunion, "an article that app

in our October 2010 issue, reforenced the

bled history between TurkeyandArmenia.

Sincerely regret that the story upset some

urkish friends.

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,-------- (J' ,] ' 1 1 1 " VN ,\ J - -- -- -- " '"

LE C R EU S ET 'SN E W E S T B O L D C O L O R I S

F A R M - F R E S HF R O M T H E G R O U N D U P .

It 's true: Fennel from Le Creuset is more than just a new, eve-catching color. It 's a fashionable expression of farm-fresh

inspiration. Warm and approachable, this rich, natural green makes a distinctive addition to Le Creuset's legendary palette,

marking the latest chapter in a storied tradition of true color and timeless style. Discover Fennel in person at your nearest

Le Creuset retailer beginning this April, or visit truelecreuset.com to learn more.

8/7/2019 saveur-2011-04-apr


TO LIVING IN GOOD COMPANY

GREY GOOSE Vodka ISa celebration of axcaptronat taste, from the finest natural lf1gredlents

to the f'nal SiP of a cocktai shared wit h friends. VISIt 9 reygoo5e com for a selectron o f Slgnatu re

recipes perfect for eilloying with these who metter most

GREYGCt~SvVodd ' s Best'Iasting

Sip Responsibly

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Looks Deliciousscan-worthy, "I became interested in confusing combinations

dients,') he recalls, "because I wanted texture and visual comp

He now makes most of the sandwiches himself, which allows

better manipulate their look.To create an image, he simply places half a sandwich on the

his Epson V700 scanner. "There's not a lot of trickery," says C

who will release a book based on the site in November, with Pow

Books. "I try to stay true to the heart and soul of the sandwich.

lofty way to think about it. But then I eat it for lunch." -Helen

Clockwi se from top left: scanwiches of bllnh mi from Manhattan sho

Vietnamese Sandwich; BLTon potato bread; turkey, sprouts, Swiss, a

on a baguette; Thanksgiving leftovers (legmeat, cranberry sauce) 011

This blogserves up a virtual feast

THE SANDWICH HAS NEVER appeared more sublime than on

the blog Scanwiches (scanwiches.com), in which cross-sectioned

sandwiches float in eerie stillness against a velvet black background.

The key to the images' saturated colors and shallow depth of field is

that they're not photographs but scans. Brooklyn-based Web designer

Jon Chonko began the site in February 2009, after one of his cowork-

ers blurted OUt the mispronunciation "scanwich " during a bout of

wordplay. The project took on a life of its own, with Chonko track-

ing down new sandwiches to feature-and refining his sense of what's

Number 13 7 save ur.

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AGENDA

GlobalSandwiches

March

29Birthday,

OSCAR MAYER

1859, Wiirttemberg, Germany

In 1883, German

immigrants Oscar

F. Mayer and his

brother Gcttfriedopened a meat mar-

ket in Chicago that

became known for

its excellent wursts. Early marketing

pioneers, the Mayers affixed their logo

to products at a t ime when most meat

carried a generic label. Since then.

promotional efforts have continued

apace, with catchy ad tunes like the

1963 "Oscar Mayer Wienel'Jingle"

("Oh, I wish I were an Oscar Mayer

wiener ...") and the "Bologna Song;' a

ditty from ablockbuster 1974 com-

mercial ("My bologna has a first name.

It's O-S-C-A-R. .."), working their way

into the canon of American popula r

culture.

April

23GRILLED CHEESE

INVITATIONAL

LosAnqeles

For the ninth year

in arow, this cheesy

cooking contest

draws hundreds

of competitors

vying for the top

.. slot in one ofthree

salaciously themed categories: the Mis- :

sionary Position (standard sandwich

bread and standard cheese, such as

American or Swiss), the Kama Sutra

(anything goes. as long as the grilled

sandwich's filling is at least 60 percent

cheese), and the Honey Pot (like the

Kama Sutra, but sweet). Info- grilled-

cheeseinvitational.com

May

11Anniversary;

SPA.M

193'1,Austin, Minnesota

On this day,Hormel Foods trade-

marked SPAM, the name for its canned

spiced ham. Afewyears later, the com-

pany shipped 100 million pounds of the

pork product overseas as World War II

Crations. Soldiers, who were fed theprocessed meat sometimes three times

a day,bonded over their shared dislike

of the stuff, which they dubbed "ham

that failed its physical." But SPAM

gained popularity as an Inexpensive

ingredient for sandwiches and other

dishes in Hawaii, where residents'

18 save u r . com Number 13 7

:iTheReal"Thing.. Agrandfather devises the

perfect open-face sandwich

ACCORDING TO a 2006

court ruling in Worcester,

Massachusetts, the city where I

was born, a sandwich consists of

two slices of bread and a filling. I

come from a people who view the

matter differently. In Russian, myparents' native tongue, the word

for sandwich is butyerbrod, which

literally means bread with butter.

Butyerbrod connotes a single slice

of bread topped with butter and

some cheese, meat, or fish. 'TI1US

an outlaw by breeding, Irefer to

eat my sandwiches open-faced.

Growing up, one of my favorite

open-face sandwiches was topped

with pickled chicken, a garlicky

roulade of dark and white meat

bound in yellow chicken skin, thecreation of my maternal grand-

father, Pinkhus Gurevich. My

grandmother would serve the roll

in dark and light mosaic slices on

a china dish, along with a plate of

challah and wheat bread. Iwould

reach for one or two pickled-

chicken slices, lay them on a piece

of bread, and go right back for

more. Between the members of

my extended family, the spread

would diminish rapidly.

I'd always assumed that this

homemade deli meat was a food

my grandfather had brought with

him from Riga, Latvia. Though

my cousins dubbed it kruglinkaya

kurochka (KROO-gleen-ka-

ya KOO-rech-ka), "round little

chicken," on account of its shape

when sliced, my mother called it

pickled chicken because her father

cured the meat in allspice, bay leafgarlic, and salt-the same sea-

sonings he'd used back in the old

country to pickle tongue and bris-

ket. Recently, when I called my

grandfather in Massachusetts to

get the recipe, Iound out itwasn't

a Latvian tradition at all: Disap-

pointed with the bland deli meats

he'd encountered in America, my

grandfather had improvised his

own. "The cold cuts you buy at

the store have no taste, so you

use mustard," he told me. "Withthis, you don't need mustard." It's

true. The sign of good krugl inkaya

kurochka is enough garlic to ward

off a legion of vampires. It's the

ideal meat for an open-face sand-

wich, needing nothing but one

unadorned slice of bread to con-

vey it cleanly from plate tomouth.

-Gabrielta Gershenson

Pickled Chicken Ro

Serves 8-l0

This homemade cold cut was c

by senior editor Gabriella Ge

son's grandfather.

4 sprigs thyme, stemmed

4 whole allsplce, finely c

3 cloves garlic, finely cho

3 dried ba y leaves, finely

crushed

Kosher salt and freshly

ground black pepper, t

1 4-lb. whole chicken

\Ii cup finely chopped pars

1_ Remove skin from chicken

piece; place in a small bowl a

aside. Cut away meat from ch

and discard bones; halve brea

thigh meat lengthwise. Trans

pieces to a large bowl, along

parsley, thyme, allspice, garli

leaves, salt, and pepper; toss to

bine. Cover both bowls with

wrap, and chill for 2-4 hours.

2. Place chicken skin on a c

board, outside skin down. A

meat, alternating white and

pieces, along length of skin, l

2" border on long sides;

ing with one short side, roll

and skin into a tight cylinde

chicken r o l l with kitchen twin

intervals; tuck in skin at ends

and tie crosswise to secure.

3_ Bring an 8-qr. saucepan of

water to a boil over high hea

add chicken roll. Cook un

instant-read thermometer in

in the m idd le of the ro ll reads

35-40 minutes. Remove rol

water and let cool. Wrap tigh

plastic wrap; chill overnighttbefore slicing.

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f la m e n co B e a c h , C u le b r a I s l a n d

D ISC O V E H \V H

p-UEKrO RICOD OE S IT BE T'T E

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Literat;urezo

~. AHeroAin't- Nothin'buta~ Sandwich

~ Alice Childress" 19731 ;; novel offered atell-it->-

~ like-it-isglimpse at

:> the struggles ofBenjie

8 Johnsoll, a 13-year-~i old heroin addict, "My

u block ain't noblock to

~ be achile in peace,"

~ laments Benjie. The~ book,whichwasmade

1 '; into a movie, suggests

; thatinaworldwhere

~ kids are left to fend for

8 themselves, there's

o not alot ofroom for

~ dreaming. Bigideas,

~ indudingthe title's,.. hero, are stripped

rt down totheir most

~o<. 0;;;

basic expressions.

20 saveur.co m Number III

Edited bySara Dickerman; poetry edited byDaniel Halpern

the otherwise-

scaredy-cat canine

sleuth, who's

been gobbling

sandwiches on

television for more

than 40 years.

Art

"The Sandwich Cubano From Habana"Since the 1960s, sandwiches have inspiredartists including Claes Oldenberg andWayne Thiebaud. Tiny but monumental,this ten-inch-square oil painting by Austin,Texas-based artist Kaci Beeler captures theooze of the melted cheese, the toasty crustofthe bread, even the glinting grease ofthepork. This is a fan's-eye view.

Cinema

A Hard Day's Night Ringo tries to escap

madness of Beatlemaniaat apub, but he can't

anything right. His darts fly afoul, into the tav

birdcage; his pint glass gets smashed; and he c

quite get his mouth around a sandwich so dried

that the bread's gone concave. "That was fresh

morning!" squawks the barmaid, who runs him

Advertising

TelevisionDrink Coca-ColaAds like this1930s poster helped sell soda as the

best way to wash down the arch-

American meal of sandwiches, an

association that's indelible today"

Seinfeld "Spicy mustard .. .you are hot tonight!" growls George Costanza from und

covers as he tries for the ultimate pleasure tr ifecta: gobbling a deli sandwich while in be

his girlfriend and simultaneously watching television. As with many of his schemes, thin

out of hand. "I flew too dose to the sun on wings ofpastrami," he later admits to Jerry.

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Hislands' Pacific Asian cuisine, a s we ll

as to its ease of storage -a plus in the

hurricane- and tsunami-prone state.

August

5-6FISH SANDWICH FESTIVAL

Bay Port, Michigan

Every yea r since 1978. using festiva l

organizer Carolyn Engelhard 's original

batter recipe, this Michigan tow n

on Lake Huron has f ried up enoughfresh -caught mullet and pollack to

make 5,000 fish sandwiches, The

fish is tucked into hot dog buns and

served with tar tar sauce, horseradish

mustard, and lemon. After they get

their fill offilets, fastivalgoers thrill to

fireworks, a pa rade, and lawn mower

races. Info: bayportchamber.com

August

12-13SOUTH CAROLINA PEANUT

PARTY

Pelion, South CarolinaFor the 30th year in a r ow, the

town of'Pelion wil l fete boi led

peanuts. Though South Caro-lina 's off icial snack food is the

guest of'honor; it is the peanut

butter and jelly sandwich-eating

contest that crOWl1Sthe week-

end. Part ic ipants have three minutes

to plow through as many sandwiches-

creamy peanut but ter, grape jel ly , whi te

bread-as possible, in hopes ofbeating

the all-time record of six. Milk is ve rbo-

ten, Info: scpeanutparty.com

September

2-11FERIA DEL JAMON DE TERUEL

Teruel, Spain

In the mountainous Aragon region

of Spain, the town of Teruel's famed

jam6n is celebrated at this annua l

festival. Made from pork using a curing

technique that dates back many hun-

dreds of years , thi s fragrant, marbled

ham stands alone in «bccadillo de

jam o n , a minim alist sandwich of ham,

olive oil, and c rusty bread. At previ-

ous fe stiva ls, organizers have doled

out portions of a quar ter-mile -long

bocadillo, to be enjoyed with regional

wines and tapas made with local

ingredients. Info: terueLcom

November

11GRAN FERIA D.ELATORTAAHOGADA

Guadalajara, Mexico

Guadalajarans celebrate the s tate

of.Ialisco's beloved torta ahoqada, a

carnitas and refried beans sandwich

serve don a t orp edo -like birote roll and

then "drowned" in a piquant chile sauce.

Previous fe stivals have featured the

construction of enormous tortes, distri-

bution of'thousands offree sandwiches,

and plenty of'live Mexican music, Info:

visitmexico.corn

22 save ur,co m Number [37

At SAVEUR.COM

Picture-PerfectThe standout amid the entries in SAVEUR.COM'S reader sandwich photo contest was

Us blogger Denise Woodward's breakfast sandwich. "This is an indulgent meal,"

wrote-an understatement. Between halves of a buttered, pan-grilled English mu

Woodward tucks spinach, avocado, and a thyme-scented pork patty drizzledwith ho

daise. Inside the pork: a poached eggyolk that bursts into rich rivulets (seerecipe on90). Six other sandwiches (below) were runners-up; see all the photos at SAVEUR.C

Joan Nova ~ codfish, fried peppers,saffron, and oregano onrustic bread

Matthew Wright's white cheddar andcaramelized-onion BLT

Angela Watts' grilled cheddar, roastedred pepper spread, and eggplant

Matt Shields' brie, tomato, and basilon sourdough topped with afried egg

Kari Godsill's yellowtail on briowith scallion-chipotle tartar sau

Deanna Linder's steak with griltomatoes, arugula, and olive oil

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All we're saying is, the purposely chosen herbs and botanicals in Yogi teas

can help you greet each day feeling more focused and alive. Over 100 botanicals

in 60 sweet and spicy blends support energy, clarity, awareness and a rush of

well-being. The same things that make Yogi teas delicious, make them work.

In the natural food or tea aisle.

H o w g o o d c a n y o u f e e l?

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StillSntokin'This small-town ritual is a

bunch of bologna

IYOU HAD visited my grand-

.. mother Adeline Dion on a

Thursday in Pierz, Minnesota,

where she lived until she passed,

last year, you'd find a note on her

door that read, "Off to bologna!"

She never missed Bologna Days.

Every Thursday at Patrick's

Bar in this town of 1,200, crowds

gather for ring bologna. Piquant

with black pepper, coriander, and

garlic, this German-style cured

pork sausage passes through the

smokehouse at Thielen Meats, my

aunt and uncle's shop in Pierz,

where it takes on a rusty pink

hue.

Bologna Days began in thets83 early 1960s, when Harold Meyer

~ walked into the bar across from

~ ~: ~ha~~~I~:;:r:~n~~~~~;1~:!:~: : ; ;

~ made bologna, and said, "Tell me

g if i t has enough seasoning." When

~ Meyer's dosed, in 1990, Thielen

~ Meats took over the taste-testing

1 : tradition .._"

~ Today, at Patrick's, grated horse-

~ radish and buttered white bread~

is accompany bologna hot from the~:i: smoker. Though the casing is edi-«~ ble, diners' plates typically sport

~ piles of peels. Most wash down

2 their sandwiches ($5 for all you

g can eat) with a small pour oflager,

~ called a snit-a toast to ritual, to

~ the town's Germanic heritage, and':J

~ to the lusciousness of freshly made

~ bologna. -Amy Thielen

24 s ave u r .c o m Number 13 7

Xochitl Blue Corn ChipsLime-treated, dried blue corn is

stone-ground toform the masa for

these delicate azure chips, which go

well with Mexican tortes.

Hawaiian Chip Company SweetPotato Chips Lightly salted,these chips are made from purple

Okinawan sweet potatoes, grown on

the Big Island ofHawaii.

Fbi Flower Prawn Crock.ers ThisJapanese version ofa popular Asian

snack foodis made with potato

starch, powdered shrimp, and flecks

of seaweed.

Hulo Hoops Original Rings A

British favorite since 1973,these

cylindrical potato. and rice flour

snacks have a savory french fry

flavor.

Southern Recipe Original PRinds Deep-frying puffs cure

skin into an airy snack that's a

accompaniment to Southern h

salad or pimento cheese sandw

Zapp's Cajun Dill Gator·TatoFlavored with dill pickle andCa

spices. these green-tinged kettle

are named for a reptilian native

Louisiana. where they're made.

LaJn'sPlantain ChipsAfamily-

owned Guyanese company fries

these chips from the banana's

starchy cousin. Try them with a

Cubane or another Latin sandwich.

Hawoiion Chip Company ToroChips When fried. the Pacific tuber

taro makes for a pretty, purple-

veined chip with afirm texture and

vegetal flavor.

Homemode Kole Chips The tleaves ofthis curly, green cabba

gain anutty, delectable taste w

roasted with olive oil,salt, and

freshly ground pepper.

Chips, Ahoy!George Crum, chef at Moon's Lake House in Saratoga Springs, New York.is often credited with being th

to serve potato. chips to the public. It's likely that the chips were "invented" by Crum's sister, Katie Wicks,

simultaneouslypeelingpotatoes and frying crullers, she dropped a spud shaving into the deep fryer. Crumsopleased with the result of 'this accident that he put the chips onthe menu. Bythe 1890s, "Saratoga chips"

being commercially produced, and family-run chips businesses sprouted, servicing grocers and speakeaIn the 1920s, the invention ofthe mechanical potato peeler and the continuous fryer increased production

bolstered the chip's rise in America. However, thin fried potato rounds precede Wicks; they were mention

early as 1795in the French treatise on potatoes La Cuisiniere Republicaine. Other chips goback even futhe corn chip's predecessor isthe pre-Colombian Mixtec totopo. a crunchy. mas a-based flatbread baked in

oven and meantto be long-lasting. Today,from petato to corn to.Pacific taro chips, Caribbean plantain chip

even roasted kale, there's a chip out there to gowith any sandwich. Above. some of our favorites. -Eric B

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Slice ofLifeThe secret history ofAller i-

ca's sandwich bread

TEN YEARS ago, while writ-

ing a history of Livingston

County, Missouri, I stumbled

upon an article in the Chillicothe

Cons t it u ti on - Tr ibune, where I work

as the news editor, announcing

that sliced bread would go on the

market the next day, July 7, 1928.

"Chillicothe Baking Co. the first

bakers in the world to sell this

product to the public," the head-

line stated. An ad in that same

edition listed stores that would

sell this new bread. I was Hoored.

Local historians had been unaware

of sliced bread's connection toour

town, nor had they known about

Otto Frederick Rohwedder.

Rohwedder, a jeweler from

Davenport, Iowa, had con-

ceived the idea for a bread-slicing

Duo Frederick Rohwedder, inventor

of the first bread-slicing machine

snugly until they were wrapped.

Rohwedder talked tohousewives

throughout America todetermine

the desired slice thickness: slightly

less than one-half inch. Many

revisions later, his machine was

capable of slicing 4,000 loaves per

hom and handling bread of up to

18 inches long.

But the key to Rohwedder's suc-

cess lay with bakers. After some of

America's biggest bakeries rejected

his notion that fresh bread could

be commercially sliced, packaged,

and sold, Rohwedder tu

baker Marion "Frank"

who worked at Chillicothe

Company. The two had p

shared a patent on a bread

rack, and Bench was ready

sliced bread a try. The resu

astounding: Bread sales a

cothe increased by 2,000

within a few months. The

ing year, Rohwedder too

for hundreds of machines.

"The telephone rang

night," recalled Rohw

son, Richard, who travele

Arkansas to Chillicothe

his father's archives with

The Depression forced R

der to sell his patent.

brainchild persists as the

mark against which all in

are compared: "It's the

thing," we say, "since slice

-Catherine Stortz Ripley

machine back in 1912, but his first

blueprints were destroyed in a fire.

By 1928, he had again secured

the finances to manufacture a

power-driven, mulcibladed slicer

measuring about six feet long and

five feet tall. The machine would

push loaves through a series of

alternating blades; pins would

then be inserted at either end of

the loaves, holding them together

THE PANTRY, page 104

B olo gn a Da ys a nd fo r p ur

chips.

AND BOTH BOtTLES ARE PURE VANILLA.

~

9 J o . . e o l J O l L " uan.illaC O NT A IN C O RN SY RU P ?

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SOURCE

26 saveur.com Nu.oortJl

Pop StarsGaleo's sodas stand out

BY KAREN SHIMIZU

FEW THINGS GO SO WELL with a

wich as a soda. I love the way the

spices in root beer complement a smoky

and-cheese and the zing of ginger ale

through a rich BLT. But as the SAVEUR

put together this issue and the varie

sandwiches proliferated, I realized I'd n

look beyond my corner store for soda

ings. What could match the man'oushe

Beirut (see page 53) OJ the Bombay vad

(page 66)?

Iurned to Galea's Soda Pop Stop,

Angeles emporium that stocks the idea

for every sandwich imaginable. The s

rows of bottles-more than 500 sodas to

set the pulse racing. A stroll down one

reveals almost-forgotten American soda

Bubble Up (alemon-lime precursor to S

and Manhattan Special's Vanilla Cream

flecks of vanilla bean), as well as new

like the Sweet Blossom line of floral re

ers (one of them made with essence of

a fine match for the fragrant man'oushe

the cucumber-laced Mr. Q. Cumber (a

ing antidote to the fiery vada pau), Fuexploration reveals an international bon

melon sodas from Japan, sorrel sips

Jamaica, barley quenchers from Denmar

For John Nese, the store's owner, the

diversity of his esoteric offerings is a mat

professional integrity, as well as taste.

caking over management of his family's I

grocery and deli, in the 1990s, he disco

that the big beverage companies were cha

him more than they were charging his

store competitors. He decided to dro

corporate brands altogether. Before lon

grocer had given over entirely to sodasindependent bottlers. Nese is also comm

to "real ingredients": fruit pulp rather

extracts, cane sugar instead of corn syru

of Galea's sodas are available by the singl

de and in mixed six- and 12-packs, mak

easy to sample widely. As Nese likes to sa

all about freedom of choice." $.99-$6.99

plus shipping. To order, call 323/255-71

visit sodapopstop.corn. ~

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~ . ---------~~

~rZ.e/~ TO rZ.€If,JV€f,J"f,J6t " T 1 - t " € C~C~.

+rerZ.e/~ TOFOOD.

,

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EdibleArtBY SARA DICKERMAN

Sandwich recipes in cookbooks chronicle an American obsession

WHEN I WAS A KID, I used to play

with my mother's cookie cutters, and

J was always intrigued by a tiny set she had,

in the shape of dubs, spades, hearts, and dia-

monds. When she told me they were used lormaking fancy sandwiches, I wondered who

would bother making sandwiches fancy.And

whywould anyone want them to beso small?

Yearslater,when I started collecting vintage

cookbooks, I began to understand the logic of

SARA DICKERMAN'S most recent story for

SAVEU R was '/1 Thing of Beauty" (August/

September 2010).

those tidbits. Bymy childhood, their time had

already passed, but there in my mid-century

cookbooks were the shape-cut sandwiches-

canapes, really-laid out on a silverplatter to

bepresented by aperfectly coiffedhousewife tofriends playing bridge. In an instant, I under-

stood something about sandwiches I hadn't

before: Because they are such an informal and

intimate food (weeat them with our fingers,

after all),they also representan unguarded view

of the moment's tastes, trends, and culinary

ambitions. Itdawned on me that many of the

sandwiches I myselfhave been obsessedwith at

one time or another (thetarragon chicken salad

on brioche; the buttery grilled Gruye

not only extensionsofmy personal cra

emblems of the era's culinary zeitgeis

So I decided to look back through

wich recipes in cookbooks to see wcould tell me about how American tas

evolved. I was surprised to find that,

as we love sandwiches in this countr

isn't much written evidence of them

the 19th century. I imagine it's not

no sandwiches were consumed, but

sandwiches are one of the original

A fancy sandwich loaf (see page 32 for re

Number 137 saveur .

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L

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From left : The Good. Cook series ' Snacks and Sandwiches (1980); Wonder Sandwich Suggestions (1930)

nience foods=-rwo slicesof bread, some meat,

and voila! Why write about something so

instinctive? Or perhaps it was because sand-

wiches had British connotations-it was the

Earl of Sandwich who popularized them in

the 18th century-that American authors

weren't thrilled about honoring them. Regard-

less, it wasn't until 1837 that one of the first

American recipes for sandwiches appeared in

print, in Eliza Leslie's D i re ct io n s fo r C o ok er y.

Itwas for buttered bread, mustard, and thinly

sliced ham-a sandwich I'd be happy to eat

In the books and essayshe published during the1960s and '70s, JamesBeard championed thesandwich as a greatAmerican art form

today (though I might not need the recipe).

One of the first cookbooks devoted to the

sandwich was also one of the most interesting:

B ev era ge s a nd S an dto ic be sj or Y ou r H us ba nd 's

F riends, by O ne Who Knows (G.L. Horton,

1893). The slim volume set forth that thesemeals weremanly food, to be eaten with alco-

holic punches or fine wine. And the recipes,

which are adventurous even by today's stan-

dards, read like a trophy shelf of hard-won,

exotic ingredients: Camembert sandwiches

(with pearl), lamb sandwiches with capers, and

even sandwiches made with "Botargo" [sic],the

salty dried tuna roe.

At the dawn of the 20th century, there

30 s ave u r .co m Number III

was indeed a manly air to many sandwiches:

The great American hamburger, hot dog,

and hero traditions were establishing them-

selvesin the streets, but theywere passed over

on the printed page. These gutsy foods were

not the kind favored by the reform-minded

cooking experts of the day, like Sara Tyson

Rorer and Fannie Farmer, who offered up the

sandwich asa "dainty" food for "light enter-

taining." As cities got bigger and faster and

louder, the bourgeois home was presented as

a quiet haven from those forces. Home econ-

omists were preaching the value of modest

cooking, thrift, and nutrition-effectively akind ofculinary temperance movement. In her

1894 cookbook Sandwiches, Rorer even tried

to gentrify the workingman's lunch, propos-

ing a double-decker sandwich, madewith both

wheat and white bread and spread with sea-

soned cottage cheese. "Thesearepalatable, and

are verymuch better for the averageworkman

than bread and ham," she speculated.

But sandwiches are, by nature, fun. Even-

tually, recipes loosened up and encouraged

homemakers to riff all the form. In the 1920s,

when people could easily get their hands on

tight-grained, soft-crumbed commercialsandwich bread, cookbooks and brochures

published by bread and flour companies offered

instructions for making whimsical party sand-

wiches, likethe ones mymother's cookiecutters

were used for. The fillings were mostly con-

venience foods, like tinned fruits, meats, and

vegetables, mixed with store-bought mayon-

naise or cream cheese to form sweetand savory

spreads. There were sandwich rolls, sandwich

checkerboards, and sandwich loaves-w

bread loaves sliced longitudinally and s

with different fillings, then cut into co

cross-sections.I chuckled at the sheer am

ofone recipeinWonder bread's 1930pam

Wond er S a ndw ic h S u gg es ti on s byAlice A

Proctor: a five-layerTower of Pisa Sand

which contained, from the cop down: a

vies and olives, lobster, chicken, Haw

salad (pineapple, candied ginger, and le

and for dessert, at the bottom, cream c

and strawberries. Proctor does not, un

nately, offer suggestions for how this san

is to be consumed.1110ughI haveyet tomake a sandwich

I've sometimes fallen for this impulse t

sandwich cuteness-I've picked up a cou

bema sandwich cutters at my local Jap

market and tried to shape mykids' lunch

bunnies and stars. But inevitably,those c

have moved to the back of my own dra

just like my mother's so many years befo

SO HOW DID WE GET from yester

party nibbles to the hearty, worldly sandw

we love today? Cooking guru James

had a lot to do with it. In his essaysandthroughout the 1960s and '70s, he c

pioned the sandwich as a great America

form and embraced regional recipes like

po'boys, and hot pastrami on rye.He als

moted the sandwiches of other cultures,

Middle Eastern pitas to Mediterranean

bagnats. Before long, other cookbooks

looking around the world for sandwich

ration: "Denmark is the country that el

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REPORTER

BreadAlone

BY JA N E A N D M IC H A E L ST E RN

Two aficionados of traditional Jewish rye track down the country's tastiest loaves

WHAT'S THE MATTER WITH NEW YORK delicatessens?1he

smoked meats they serve are succulent, the chopped liver luxu-

rious, the knoblewurst gnarly, but for the anemic rye they use to make

sandwiches, a knuckle rapping is in order.

We marched to the cash register of the esteemed 2nd Ave Deli after

enjoying fine, spice-rimmed pastrami on slices of what could have been

Wonder bread with a tan, and expressed our extreme disappointment to

the poor cashier. "I know, I know," she shrugged. "Good rye is hard to

find." If you've eaten sandwiches in other famous Jewish-style delis in

New York, you believe her. Katz's and the Carnegie Deli, grand as they

may be in other respects, also embarrass good meat with lightweightbread, in which crust and crumb are nearly indistinguishable and cara-

way seeds are curiously devoid of flavor.

After consuming too many lackluster ryes, we began to wonder if we

were expecting the impossible. Was our vision of the ideal deli sandwich

merely euphoric recall of magnificent bread that never was? We looked

at old 35mm slides of corned beef and pastrami sandwiches we'd eaten

in the early 1970s , and although the pictures' colors had faded, there

was no denying the luster of the bread's crust, the density of each slice,

the surfeit of seeds that were plu mp instead of desiccated. Just to clarify,

the Jewish deli rye that good meats deserve isn't the dark, heavy, all-rye-

flour loaf that's indigenous to, and still prevalent in, parts of Eastern

Europe (see "Regional Rye Breads," page 36); it's an American hybrid

that contains white wheat flour, too, and has a fine crumb that makesit suitable for slicing and forming into sandwiches. That shiny surface

is owed to an egg-wash glaze; its tang usually comes from a sourdough

starter; and its bottom is covered with cornmeal (hence the common

nickname corn rye).

A bit of research revealed that, despite glaring instances of mediocrity,

classic Jewish rye-full flavored, with a sturdy crust-can still be found

JANE an d MrcHAEL STERN ar e SAVEU R c on tr ib uti ng e di to rs a nd th e

a ut ho rs o f R o ad fo o d. c om .

34 saveur.com Number 131

in this country, even in New York. The place to look is not the

East Side, where gentrification threatens even Katz's, but the U

East Side, at Orwasher's Bakery, which makes oversize loaves th

deliriously crowded with caraway seeds, and on the Upper West S

Zabar's, where glossy, amber-hued loaves pack a deep rye-berry t

Counterintuitive as it might seem, some of the nation's mos

tinguished deli rye is found far from New York, in cities that

generally known for their Jewish culture-like Indianapolis,

instance. Yes, Indianapolis, where the 1905-vintage Shapiro's D

tessen begins making its authoritative loaves (as well as bagels and

buns) at midnight SO that they're ready to slice by 6:30 A.M., to a

Sandwiches made with lean butluxurious house-made corned beef arserved on extra-thick slices of fragranrye-the perfect foil for plush meat

pany corned beef hash and corned beef omelettes. Sandwiches

lean but luxurious house-brined beef are served on slices of rye th

hand-cut extra thick.

Manny's Coffee Shop and Deli, at the southwestern edge of the

cago Loop, is another Midwestern corned beef mecca where,

Shapiro's, the service is cafeteria style. The highlight of Manny's

gent line, which includes the likes of knishes and kishke and chsoup with matzo balls or kreplach, isgoing one-on-one with corned

slicer Gino Gambarota. "Lady, this isn't Highland Park," he sc

slender suburbanite who asks for only half a sandwich. The behe

is made on morning-fresh rye from Northbrook-based Highland

ing Company, and it contains a mound of brick red meat so m

that the bottom slice of rye is buried and the top one sits like a littl

mulke. Yet the surplus does nothing to diminish rye's essential

a sour foil for plush meat. If you can get the bread mavens of Ch

to pause in their hosannas for the bagels at Kaufman's, they mig

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you know that the rye bread made at this beloved mid-20th-century

deli-bakery is corned beef's best friend. Kaufman's two-pound loaf is

a heavyweight dirigible with a golden brown crust, a khaki crumb,

and the pungent ping of caraway seeds that typifies so many Midwest-

ern deli ryes. (The excellent loaf made by Davis Bakery, in Cleveland,

is an identical rwin.) It has all the brawn needed to support a superior

Reuben, in which corned beef is combined with Swiss cheese and sau-

erkraut, the whole shebang grilled to hot, rnelry succulence and topped

with Thousand Island dressing,

Good rye on the West Coast ranges from m e crusty, light artisanal loaflaced with glistening ribbons of sweet onion at Seattle's Macrina Bakery

to the caraway- and cornmeal-surfaced classic at San Diego's D.Z. Akins.

San Francisco's Acme Bread Company makes a dark, hard-crusted old-

world loaf that's so buff, it's more suitable as an accompaniment to

borscht or stew than as a sandwich exoskeleton. For an exemplary deli

sandwich made on beautiful rye, the place to go is Langer's, in Los

Angeles, where the loaves-a-made by Bea's Bakery, in Tarzana, then

double-baked in-house-s-are moist and tender, with a subrle sour tang

and a wickedly crisp crust. The rye is sliced thick and likely will still be

warm when it gets loaded with heaps of tender corned beef.

But America's very best deli rye? No contest. We found it in Ann

Arbor, Michigan, when we noticed that the bread that Zingerman's Deli

used to construct our Diana's Different Drummer sandwich (brisket,

Russian dressing, coleslaw, and horseradish) was sensational. It comes

from Zingerman's Bakehouse, which makes loaves of rugged rye that are

dense and springy, laced with the taste of hearth smoke. Of the 5

so loaves Zingerrnan's might bake in a day, about 20 or 30 are se

to be sliced and mixed with water to become mash used in the nex

batch-a-a trick traditionally used by thrifty bakers who wanted

day-old bread to use and turbocharge its flavor. This infusion of a

risen and cooked bread combines with a high ratio of rye-to-re

wheat flour and a good measure of the rye-sour culture originally

ated when the bakeshop began to produce the great holy grail f

bread lovers, in 1992. Comanaging partner Amy Emberling c

"turn-of-the-century rye; Lower East Side American rye." Frank

ollo, the other comanaging partner, explains that their rye gets its

shiny crust because, after being mixed, rising, being shaped, and

again (five hours in all), each loaf is brushed with water and bake

chamber full of steam for five minutes. The steam is drawn out

oven, and about 40 minutes later, when the bread is done and sti

it is brushed with water again, creating a distinctive crinkly, cris

face. It 's a traditional technique that was common among Jewish

in New York City during the 19605.

Zingerman's loaves are available in all the classic configurations:

with caramelized onions; either studded with caraway seeds or wit

away seeds ground into the dough. While the torpedo loaf is stan

the bakeshop also makes a circular rye that weighs two kilos, an

monument that calls out for cold cuts, hot cured meats, and sm

fish-e-or for nothing more than a stick of softened butter to lay ba

pure joy of good old-fashioned rye bread. ~

Regional Rye BreadsRye bread is not and never was a single something. Regional variations have

always abounded, across Scandinavia, Eastern Europe, and Russia-places

where rye grows more easily than wheat. Some recipes call for 100 percent rye

flour; others combine rye and wheat. Sourdough starter, used as afermenting

agent, gives many rye breads their characteristic sourtaste. and the addition

of ingredients like onion, cabbage, and potato is common. Different grades of

rye flour-pale, medium, dark, and darkest- produce breads with distinctive

flavor profiles and colors. Darker tlcurs= the darkest is pumpernickel-con-

Finnish Rye Finnsbake and eat manykinds ofrye breads.A popular whole-grain rye called ruis

is round, dense, andflat , with no dis-cernable sourness.It pairs well withmild cheeses andbutter.

German Rye Onepopular style ofGerman rye bread.known as vollkorn·brot (picturedbelow), contains ryeflours and whole-kernel rye grains.German bakersare also known forsourdough pumper-nickel made withthe darkest-graderye flour.

,, ._ . . . . . _

36 saveur.cnm Nummt3?

Lithuanian RyeMost start with asourdough base andcombine wheat andrye flours to producea bread ofmediumcolor, density, andsourness. Some bak-ers add scalded milkto their dough. topromoteferrnen-tation, Instead ofcaraway, they oftenflavor their rye withonion or cabbage.

e , '

tain more of the bran and produce more emphatically flavored breads.

When famine and war drove millions of Eastern Europeans to A

ca's shores in the early 20th century, the new arrivals brought their

of rye bread with them, as have more recent waves of immigrants. A

the States, it's possible to find many styles of rye bread hailing from

ferent cultural traditions. Below are a few of the more common vari

-Michaele Weissman, author o/God in a Cup (Wiley, 2008) and afortingbookabout rye bread

Latvian Rye Lat-via's best-knownrye bread is a dark,dense, 100per-cent whole-grainrye called rupj-

maize. whichcontrasts sournesswith a mild sweet-ness. Latvian ryegoes particularlywell with smokedfish, charcuterie,and highly flavoredcheeses, such asRoquefort.

Jewish Rye Thischewy-on-the-

outside, tan-colorbread-combin-ing rye and wheatflours, along witha rye sourdoughstarter-origi-nated in Polandhundreds ofyearsago. Poland's largeJewish populationfavored this bread,which in the NewWorld came to beknown as Jewishrye, the ultimatedeli bread.

Russian Rye Rus-sians bake manydifferent rye breads.These often com-

bine rye with wheator other grains. Oneofthe most famous,Borcdinsky, com-memorates a keybattle in Napoleon'sfailed 1812 invasionof Russia. Mod-ern versions ofthismedium-firm breadcombine dark ryeand wheat flours, aspecial sourdoughstarter, molas-ses, and ground

coriander. 1 ,/

~

Danish Rye Tdense, coarseture ofrugbrsed

( the base for thcountry's famoopen-face sandwiches) stemsthe fact that buse stone-grounrye berries tothey add wheatsourdough staand, on occasioseeds, creat ingheavy; chewywith a nutty ta

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Make your happy happen at andiego.

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38 saveur.com Number 13 7

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3

.f

5

2

4

SHINING EXAMPLES

These chef-created sandwiches are some ofthe most inventive andconstructed we've had. JAt Double Crown inNew YorkCity, Chris Rmakes a foia gras sandwich with kumquat-ginge1· relish, radishes,

shoots. II The cumin-spiced sweetbread pitafrom Yossi Blad ofJlem's Machneyuda has a bright topping ofchoppedpreserved lemonjalapeno. jAna Sortun ofSofraBakery in Cambridge, Massachusetishes her chicken shawarma with sauteed escarole and toum, a gaMiddle Eastern mayonnaise . .! The crab cake sandwich atDavid LHungry Cat restaurants inHollywood and Santa Barbara, Californiawith rornesco sauce and shavedfennel, Tedonion, and an<9ula. .I i Tuonnaise gives AprilBloomfield's roast pork sandwich at John DoryBar inNew YorkCitya savory boost.§At the Lima, Peru-based PasqHermanos, Gast6nAcw'io's Asaltado Vegetariano combines stir-fretables with a citrusy chile-mayonnaise. Z Fiery sriracha sauce andherbs and cucumbers balance the richness ofauthor Tom Colicchiocalamari sandwich. (Seepage 86for recipes)

Number 1 " 3 7 save ur,

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SANDWICH

DreamyGoodYou can always caunt on a

grilled cheese sandwich

PLANS FALTER, econ-

omies and empires

.._. collapse, the no-fail

recipe fails. But you can pretty

much take it on faith: Grilled

cheese will not disappoint.

I'm not just talking about

the ones at those increasingly

rare diners, frozen thrillingly

in an Edward Hopper past:

vintage greasy spoons with

flexible refrigeration standards

and relaxed thinking about

how often the griddle gets

scoured, where the bacon may

be a relic of yesterday's break-

fast, but the grilled Swiss on

rye is always fresh and fabu-

lous. Grilled cheese was one

of the fi rst things I learned to

make as a kid, and certainly one

of the earliest on which I dared

to experiment-mozzarella

instead ofVelveeta, sourdough

instead of Wonder. Whatever

the version, it has everything

you want in a savory: crunch

and yield, oil and snap, warmthand salt and butter.

Bysome estimates, Americans

consume more than two billion

grilled cheese sandwiches a year,

but my favorite bit of grilled

cheese lore is this: For much

of its early life in this country,

from the 19205 until the '70s,

~ a grilled cheese sandwich was

g called a "cheese dream." Howc

'"{zz

~

~N

'"t:

:iQ

perfect. -Francine Prose,author

of My New American Life

(HarperCollins, 2011)

SANDWICH t im e Ii ne

~1 Clst entury B.C. ..,~ In Roman-occupied Jerusalem, Rabbi HIllel the Elder eats Paschal~.Lamb and bitter herbs on matzo. The herbs symbolize the Jews' bitter~ enslavement in Egypt, and the unleavened bread symbolizes their hasty'" escape. The Hillel sandwich, minus the lamb-matzo with bitter herbs~ (parsley, fresh horseradish, endive)-is still eaten at Passover seders.

44 saveur.co m Number 1]7

1400sTrenchers, thick slice

bread, serve as plates

medieval place setting

are topped with thick

meat pies, and roasted

meats.

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!TheFrench batardhas a thick, crustyexte-rior that lends heft tosandwiches.

.llDutch crunchfrom

California is smearedin riceftour paste beforebeing baked, to create atextured crust.

l!Dhal puri roti, madewith wheat flour andyellow split peas, is apopular West Indiansandwich wrap.

.iRussian black bread,baked with molassesand rye,pairs wellwithcorned beefor eggsalad.

.! ! At Tartine in SanFrancisco, they usetheir signature countrybreadjbr rustic sand-wicheswith fillings likesoppressata,fontina,

and broccolirabepeste.

.Ii The kaiser roll, adeliclassic with roots inAustria, was named forits resemblance totheemperor's crown.

1The coarse-ground ryein pumpernickel cara-melizes during baking toproduce a rich, dark hue.

.IiMantou, a Chinesesteamed bun, is deli-cious split andfilledwith roast pork.

D Jamaican patties (pies)often come sandwichedin buttery coco bread,wht:ch,despite the name,contains no coconut.

!!!Pitaflatbread wrapsfalafel, shawarma, andmany otherMiddle East-ern sandwiches.

Y Irish soda bread has amoist texture that pairswell with cheddar.

gChoreg is a brioche-like, seed-strewn

ArmenianEaster bread.

y..Many Mexican tortasandwiches come onapillowy telera roll.

IiIn Colombia and Ven-ezuela, cornmeal arepasare split and stuffed withcheeseand othe1·fillings.

.!!i Orwasher's Bakery inManhattan makes this

46 saveur.corn Number III

miche1·ound, agood,sturdy breadfor grilling.

!!!Focaccia has a simi-lar texture topizza crust;chewy andfluffy.

!ZSoft, white Pullmanloafis theiconicAmeri-can sandwich bread.

!JA classic Cubansandwich comes onatorpedo-shaped Cubano

roll, pressed and grilled.

!!lEggy challah is a richalteTnative to tradi-tional white bread.

MMalty beer breadfrom Orwasher's isgreat with charel.terie .

.;u Bombay street vendorsfill yeasty pav buns withcroquettes, curries, andother ing1·edients.

.!!l! A sesame seed bun

is apopular choicefor roast beef grilledchicken, and burgers.

m!Sturdier than whitebread, sliced Italian loafpairs well with cold cuts.

~ Tmditionally used inItalianpanini, ciabatta

has an airy crumb and apleasant tangy flavor .

m! This lofty EnglishrnuffiufromSarabeth'sKitchen inManhattanmakes afine basefor abreakfast sandwich.

lli1Punjobi parathaflat-

breadfried in gheeis aluxurious wrapfor veg-etarianfillings.

i7Ita.lian piadinaenfolds eve1·ything fromsalurni toNutella atpiadinerie throughoutthe Romagna region.

£!!Hearty Finnish ntis(rye), sliced thin, is abasefor N01'dic-style

open-face sanduriches.

!!!In China's Shaanxiprovince, clay oven-baked mo is stuffed withstewed pork orbeefcilantro, and peppers.

.;!2 Thinlavashflatb1·eadwraps Turkish kebabsand other sandwiches,and it's alsoeaten dry,likea cracker.

-.'~

15 14

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SandwichCityThere's no better place for

lunch on a roll than Philly

IPHILADELPHIA, my

hometown, the corner deli

is the community anchor,

and our indigenous foods are

hoagies and cheesesteaks. Me,

I work in a machinery ware-

house. I have two young sons,

and I'm the guardian of a raven-

ous teenage boy. I don't follow

"best of" lists, but I know what

the average guy eats. So when

my sister Betsy, a SAVEUReditor,

asked for suggestions, I men-

tioned the places where I get

a good feeling~like my local

deli, J&G Lunchmear Villa, in

Ardmore. A hapless boozer nick-

named Dr. Hoagie used to work

there; his skill in life was making

sandwiches like the Special: rnor-

tadella, capicola, salami, cheese,

and, in my case, jalapenos. It

wasn't, and isn't, gourmet food,

but I've been ordering it for three

decades.

Other delis tinker. Chickie's,

ill South Philly, tops its fried

tomato hoagie with four kinds ofprovolone. It's ambitious, but I

can really get into it . Still others

go for size. Greenman's, in the

Northeast, makes its hoagies two

feet long. It takes two people to

lift one, and four guys toeat it.

Of course, other cities have

their heros or subs. But the

cheeses teak is a Ph illy origi-

nal, and the places that serve

the best never change. Take

Chink's Steaks. Samuel "Chink"

Sherman was a raconteur anda horse gambler who opened a

shop near Greenman's in 1949.

When he died, his apprentice

took over, and he's been behind

that gril l fur 33 years, pil ing

thin-sliced rib eye on a roll with

American cheese. At jlm's, in

West Philly, for 72 years, the key

add-ens have long been Cheez

48 s ave u r .co m Number 13 7

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PH ILLYTAS

Philadelph ia himmigrants tofor its sandwichthe 1800s, theworkers brougItaly a taste forwiches on longcarrying themfactories and dfor lunch. Thelikely was namformer jazzmanPalma, who opdeli in 1936, cowares after a che'dmade yearwhile watchinglowmusiciansItalian sandwic"You had to beeat one. Over this "hoggies" b"hoagies,"The city's ste

wich was invenPat Olivieri,fouPat's King ofStSouthPhilly, Owas ahot dog vwho, tired ofwone day in 193some meat scrahispushcart grlunch, Thefiretsteak, top-pedwprovolone, is aPat'screation.Italiano-meat,and sharp provlone-is a moreSouth Philly trShank's &Evely(now Shank's Onal Luncheone

which opened iserved one ofthItalianos, whicmade with a chcutlet. The porsion came Withofsauteed greewhich some curequested on thThe "combo,

riage ofhot doglater, hot sausaandfish cakes,the brainchildLevis, aLithuanJew who openePhiUyfranks s

1895. John DanJohnny's Hots-in Fishtoum, th

mer locus ofthshad fisheries-sit with "pepperaPennsylvaniacabbage-and-beperrelishtha.thabeen apopularlcondiment for-Betsy Andrew

Number (37 save u r .c

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Whiz and a wicked hot sauce.

I also have to mention one

cheesesteak relation, a local odd-

ity named the Schmitter, after an

old Philadelphia beer. The sand-

wich is served at the ballpark,

but it comes from McNally's

Tavern, in Chestnut HiJL I've

studied its blueprint: American

cheese, steak, fried onions,

tomatoes, cheese, grilled salami,

"special sauce" -which is like

Thousand Island dressing-and

more cheese, on a local kai-

ser roll. With beer and potato

chips, it's totally appealing. Less

well-known than the cheese-

steak but just as indigenous

is the roast beef or roast pork

Italiano, topped with sauteed

greens and cheese. Itcomes from

South Philly, the original home

of DiNic's, which is now located

in the upscale Reading Terminal

Market. DiNk's gets my vote

for the most beautiful roast beef,

broccoli [abe, and sharp pro-

volone sandwich; these guys

prepare it all from scratch. But

they've Lostthe Street character

of a place like John's, a fourth-

generation shop located in a

South Philly cinder-block bun-

ker, where the roast pork with

gravy, fried long hot peppers, and

garlicky spinach makes a goodpackage-one almost as tasty as

the sandwich served at Lenny's, a

sleeper out in the suburbs: moist,

fennel-scented pulled pork on a

football-shaped semolina roll.

Finally, there's the hot sausage

and fish cake at johnny's Hots, a

take-out place by the Delaware

River frequented by dock work-

ers and cops. These fat, spicy beef

sausages, seared so that their skin

snaps, are wedged with creamy

codfish cakes onto shiny lit-tle rolls. Philadelphians top this

sandwich with pepper hash, a

finely chopped Pennsylvania

Dutch slaw. It's nothing fancy,

just straight to the point. Which

is the way a sandwich should be,

in my opinion. -A lbert J ohn

A n d rew s, e ati n g Ph il IJ s an dwi ch es

fo r h alf a ce ntu ry a nd c ou nti ng

50 saveu r.co rn Number 13 7

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H, ,"£

S "Rc .oNco AI J ~

THE GUIDEPhiladelphia

Chi.ckie's Itali

1014 Federal(215/462-8040chickiesdeli.co

Chink's Steaks

TorresdaleAvenue (215/535-chinks teaks. c

DiNic's 51No12th Street ining Terminal(215/923- 617

Greenman's D

tessen 2900 RAvenue (215/23336)

J&GLunehme

373 East CounLine Road, Ar(610/642-9477

Jim's Steaks 4

North 62nd S(215/747-6617

jimssteaks.com

John's Roast P

14EastSnydernue (215/463-johnsroastpork

Johnny's Hots

North Delawanue (215/423-

Lenny's Italian

900 Fayette SConshohocken(610/825-4569

McNally's Ta

8634 GermantAvenue, ChesHill (215/247-

mcnallystavern

Shank's Origi

Uptown 90012South 15th Str(215/629-1093

Toprow,fromChickie's hoagenjoying aporItaliano at Lensteak at JohnnWazir Sealy wmilk shake andhoagie at GreeSecond row,[T

ownet'Joe GroChinks Steaksroast beef,pulland roast porkwiches; a signLunchmeat ViJohnny's Hotscheesesteak. Trow,/rom left;

Special; outsidmans; McNallSchmitter; Caat work atJ im'

Number 1J7 save ur .

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SANDWICH

SpecialTreatsSome of the tastiest

sandwiches are sweet

SNGAPQRE, CIRCA

1980. The recess bell

rings, and the surge

of classmates carries me out

the door, down the stairs, and

around the corner to the school

canteen, where the wave of

ravenous pupils breaks with a

roar against the crowded snack

counter. We throw down our

money for ice cream loti, a cool-

ing panacea for brains sore from

learning: Huffy bread ("loti"

being a colloquial mispronun-

ciation of "rati.' the word for

bread in Malay) sandwich-

Nutella, the hazelnut-chocolatespread, on ciabatta toast, apopularbreakfast throughout Europe

The Elena Ruz, a Cuban specialtymade with sliced turkey, stTawbeTry

jam, and cream cheese

Ice cream sandwich with corn andginkgo nuts ft'om chefPichet Ong ofSpot Dessert BaT,in New York City

ChockFull a'Nuts Nutted Cheesesandwich, made on date-nut breadwith cream cheese and walnuts

Fromage blanc, bananas, aquince paste on country bread

Tartine, in San FTancisc

Australia's Hundreds and Tsands sandwich, made with band sprinkles on toasted white

ing scoops ofsweet, milky ice

cream. The soft slices, tinted

circus-bright pink, yellow, andgreen, gently swaddle my choice

of raspberry ripple, vanilla,

chocolate, durian ... or perhaps,

for a few cents more, a thick

slab of Neapolitan ice cream,

its gaudy tricolor hue dash-

ing irresistibly with the bread's

pastel swirls. I chase crumbs

and drips, sink my teeth into

cushiony and creamy layers-

the shock of this cold, sweet ice

cream sandwich never gets old,

never loses its simple, deliciousappeal. Three decades later, as

an adult living in Singapore,

I am cued by the bells of ice

cream carts-no longer the

5 jingle of the school bell. But the

:i treat, and my sheer enjoyment

~ of it, remain exactly the same.

2 :: -Christopher Tan,food writero

i? and cookbookauthor


An ice cream loti, apopulardessert in SingapoTe

(Seepage 88for recipes.)

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There are lots of ways

to make a ham andcheese sandwich, but if

you ask me, the French

way isbest. I had my

first croque monsieurshortly after moving to

Paris 25 years. ago, at a

bygone cafe 011 the rue

Royale. Iet a French

friend order for me,

and the waiter brought

out the most marvel-

ous thing: apuffy gril led

cheese sandwich, dot-

ted with little islands of

crisped, golden cheese

and covered with acreamy bechamel sauce

that encased the toasted

bread andjambon deParis. Myfr iend'sver-sion looksdjust as good,

only hers was topped

with abarely set fried

egg: a croque madame.Over the years, I've

dismissed the misty

folklore that says the

cToquecame to be whensome workmen left

their ham and cheese

sandwiches next to a

radiator. Regardless, by

the 1920s, it was a sta-

ple of the cafes along

the grand boulevards of

Paris . And I 've learnedthat there's no single

way to make one. At Le

Nemrod, the lively LeftBank cafe that's my

go-to address for real ly

good cToques,theyserve them not with

a classic bechamel,

but with a sauce made

ofwhipped, gratedEmmenthal , milk,cream, and blond beer.

What never changes are

the basic ingredients:

ham, cheese, and bread.

A perfect combination,

if ever there was one.

-Alexander Lobrano,author ofthe newlyupdated Hungry for

Paris (Random House,2010)

54 saveur.co rn Nllmber137

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' .

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+ + + 6 11

MORE CONTENDERS

Ham and cheese between bread is a univer-salpairing.! Ourfavorite Italian Panino

featuresfocaccia. Taleggio, speck (smokedGuredham), arugula, and balsamic vinegar.!The SPAM and Cheese Sandwich from

Kogi, inLosAngeles, is made with a sliderbun, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheeses,SPAM, sweet chile sauce, and kimchi. ~ ACubano is agriddled white rollwith Swisscheese, boiledham, dill pickle slices, androasted pork. (Seepage 87for recipes.) 3

+

+. +2

. .

+

Numberur sevevr.c

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SANDWICH

'" . . . .

Sardine Sandwich WithHorseradish Cn:am(above);SardineSandwich (below). (Seepage 91jonecipes.)

ForgottenFishA chefrecalls hisfavorite

childhood sandwich

IELL IN LOVE with sar-

dine sandwiches when I

___ was 13 years old, work-

ing my first restaurant gig, at

Hyrnies, a beloved delicates-

sen in suburban Philadelphia.

My favorite job was helping the

in-house caterer, Murray, my

first culinary mentor. He was

in his sixties, an Eastern Euro-

pean immigrant with a heavy

accent and a great work ethic.

When we were done for the

day, he'd make sardine sand-

wiches that we'd eat together,

just the two of us, in the back

of the kitchen. Itwas a simple

sandwich prepared exactly as

it appeared on the menu, with

a can of Portuguese sardines,

some good deli mustard, sliced

onions, and leaf lettuce, piled

onto fresh rye bread.

A generation ago, sardine

sandwiches were ever pres-

ent in American restaurants.

Growing up, Iecall their being

listed on every deli, diner,sandwich shop, cafeteria, and

Automat menu. Back then, the

New York market consumed

five million tins a year, and the

sardine industry was the state

of Maine's largest employer. I

knew this because my father

was in food sales, peddling the

European gourmet specialties

of that era, and we had cans

of sardines around the house

t rqk~L 9~. , _ ~ _ ~ r _ ~ , ._;tr~'~ Il7nloJl..:r,...,

all the time. For an impatie

teenager, it was the perfect

quick meal, and as a colleg

student, one of my favorite

bargain dinners was sardine

in tomato sauce packed in

Fraserburgh, Scotland, als

courtesy of Dad. These we

tiny fish, the brisling vari-

ety; we'd eat them piled on

Triscuits and wash them d

with Schmidt's beer.

When huge marketing c

paigns from the internationa

tuna conglomerates began,

the 19505, it seemed that o

night, tuna salad was in an

sardines were out. Tuna w

cheaper, less "f ishy" tasting

and, of course, it seemed l

ethnic. This ushered in the

era of factory tuna trawlers

depleted tuna stocks, mas-

sive bycatch loss, and merc

as a dietary supplement. B

contrast, sardines remain

dant, bycatch is very low,

{heir meat is loaded with v

mins, minerals, and omega

oils, without the heavy me

als and toxins often found

larger fish.

Fresh Mediterranean sar

dines can be found on upsc

menus all over the coumry,

the canned variety gets littlove nowadays. So next tim

you visit your grocer, grab

can of European or Morocc

sardines, and make yoursel

sandwich. As Murray show

me nearly 40 years ago, it's

even a kid could love. -M

Colameco, host o/Colameco's

Food Show and author o/M

Colarneco's Food Lover's G

to NYC (Wz"lry, 2009)

SUPREME SARDINES

The tiniest and most delicate-tasting variety is brisling, fishetheNorth Sea waters ofScotlantheNorwegianjjords. Larger, mier sardines comefrom the wanwaters ofPortugal, Spain, ItalyMOTOCCO. For years theFrenchbeencellaring tins ojsardines-which becomericher infiavor aage-and selling five- to-ten-ue"vintage"cansforapremium.

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A DAY IN THE LIFE AT BRASSERIE lENTEN

tBOULDER,COLORADOI

One of B oulder' sf avo rite gathering places, delighting customers with our F ren ch in sp ired cuisine sinceJu!_y ofZ0 03!

BRUNCH P .t C ro qu e Ma dame

"I love the croque madame because of the sum of all their parts are rich and delicious. Simple ingredien

are combined to make a rich dish perfect for brunch. It's French cooking at it's finest. Simple, local in

dients combined with classical French technique creating something bigger and better than the humb

ingredients on their own. At Ten Ten we layer artisan baked sourdough with Black Forest Ham and

imported Gruyere, griddle it in butter, top it with velevety sauce momay and a sunny side egg with fin

herbs." -C hef de C u,sin e E liah G olden

LUNCH $ - T en T en Hot Dog

"While normally reserved for street carts and camp fires, the Ten Ten Hot Dog rises above its other c

ter parts. An all-beef dog on tOp of a house-made hoagie roll with rich mornay sauce, homemade whograin mustard, spring mix, vine ripened tomatoes, house pickled Basque vegetables and 20-year aged

balsamic vinegar, the plate is a thing of beau ty." -S ous C hef M ike T rim mer

HAP PY H0UR $ - A ssortm en t of A rtisa n C heese an d C harcuterie

"One of my favorite items is the assortment of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. Our broad selection of

cheeses come with an apricot sage chutney and a freshly baked baguette from our in-house bakery. Th

range from a creamy Brie tour d'Marze CO the sharp Pleasant Ridge and the stronger Fomme d'Ambert

Our charcuterie selections include a local Saucisson Sec and the Jambon Serrano accompanied by a ho

made mustard and pickled pippara peppers." -SOU C h ~f Co r' !Y C un m ng ham

DIN NER $ - Bo ui lla ba i ss e

"When 1 think of comfort, 1 think of the first time 1 tasted bouillabaisse. The simplicity, the aroma. a

especially all the seafood reminded me of home. With its saffron, fennel, tomato and orange zest brot

and the carefully selected seafood, bouillabaisse is not trendy but a classic French comfort food. The

rouille smeared on a crusty baguette is the icing on the cake. When I make it now, it brings me back t

that first time." -E xecutiv e C hef A nth o'2 J H essel

DESSERT $ - Lemon M eringue T art

"Aclassic French dessert inspired by my time living and training in Europe. r created this recipe soon

ter starting my work at the Brasserie here in Boulder. Llike the contrast between the sweet meringue

tart lemon curd along with the delicate crunch of the shortbread cookie." - Pa stry C hef J o hn P ark in so n

Visit SAVEUR.COM/BRASSERIETENTEN

to find out which spiri ts pair best with each item!

GftASS.~. r.bi~"" ___..~ .... t.

TEN TEN

1011 Walnut Street Boulder, CO 803

FOR RESERVATIONS CA,LL (303) 998~1 01 0

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ANDWICH" ,

In the fall of20D2,

during the height of

the second Palestin-

ian intifada, I began

myjournalism career

with a few ill-planned

months in Israel, I'd

wanted to become a

war correspondent,

but I mostly ended up

wandering the coun-

trywith a high school

friend named Cliff.

Surrounded by beau-

tiful Israeli women,

we sought love from

these desert flowers,

but the near-weekly

suicide bombings

byHamas terrorists

had made the youth

suspicious. They'd

interrogate us: "Don't

you know this country

is a freaking bala-

gan?"Abalagan, we

learned. is a hot mess,

and the thought of us

Canadian kids hang-

ing out as militants

blew up pizza parlors

struck them as abig

freaking balagan.

With few friends,

and even fewer shek-

els, Cliff and I spent

our nights pacing the

streets, living on a

diet ofbottled water

and schnitzel sand-

wiches. In a country

known for Middle

Eastern food, schnit-

zel remains one of the

lone culinary hold-

overs ofZionism's

Austro- Hungarian

roots, It's been an

Israeli staple since

the early days of the

country's existence,

found everywhere

from the frozen food

aisles of supermar-

kets to kibbutz dining

halls to take-out win-

dows in bustling

nightlife areas, where

it comes in sand-

wich form. Turkey

or chicken breasts

(veal istoo expen-

sive to raise in the

desert) are pounded;

..0 marinated in olive~<{

'""~:I:U

~ bread crumbs-some-

oil, garlic, and lemon

juice; dipped in flour,

then egg; dredged in

58 save ur.co m Numb!!}" lp

times with sesame

seeds or za'atar

spice-and fried in oil.

Fresh-from-the-fryer

schnitzels are stuffed

into baguettes or

pitas and layered with

toppings that bridge

the gap between Ash-

kenazi and Mizrahi

(Middle Eastern)

tastes: mayonnaise

and mustard, but

also hummus, tahini,

tomato and cucum-

ber salad, and harissa.

The sandwiches are

so popular, you can

find them outside the

Holy Land wherever

Israelis congre-

gate. On a recent

trip to Brooklyn's

Coney Island Ave-

nue, a thriving artery

of Orthodox Jewish

culture, I came upon

two places, Schnit-

zel King and Schnitzi

Schnitzel Bar, that

vie for the appetites

of students with fla-

vors like "Spani~

(spicy breading ~tbchile peppers) and

"Yemenite" (falafel

seasoning).

Thatfall, Cliff

and I unwittingly

tapped into awel-

coming segment of

Israeli society. Under

the cold fluorescent

lights ofthe schnitzel

shacks, to the

of cutlets bubbling in

oil, we came together

with deliverymen,

off-duty soldiers,

and religious zeal-

ots, talking politics,

pop culture, and the

future of Zionism in

abroken hodgepodge

of'languages.Our true

link was a sandwich

that embodied the

country's conflicted

identity: a mix of high

European heritage

and hard-won terroir,

whipped together

haphazardly, only to

endure as a symbol of

plucky nationalism.

-Davi4Sax, author

of Save the Deli

(Houghton Mifflin

Harcourt, 2009)

ome

In Europe, iseaten witoflemow orwith lingonberryjamthe cutlet evolved into an Israeliwich, tahini became the condimechoice. Today,for Israelis servinzel abroad, that topping is old-sIsner, an owner olSchnitzi SchninBrooklyn, New York, serves hwich (pictured above) with sauc(ft'om left) barbecue, honey-musmichurri, garlic mayo, pesta, swand horseradish mayo.

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NutsAbout ItThe enduring appeal of

peanut butter sandwiches

I'S THE SUMMER after

t~ird grade, and my ?est

___ friend, Becky Roth, IS

making me a peanut butter and

Jelly sandwich. I 'm concerned

about a couple of things. First,

she's using Skippy, which

doesn't taste at all right~

which is to say, it doesn't taste

like [if, the kind we use at my

house. At least our families

agree on the matter of creamy

(insipid) vs. crunchy (a mark of

character). And I'm quite sure

the toaster oven should have no

part in this process-s-righe up

until Becky presents me with

the sandwich itself. The molten

peanut butter is 1 ike hot fudge;

the blackberry jam's a thick

syrup. They swirl together, salty

and sweet, and splurge Out the

sides of the toasted bread. It's

gloriOUS.

Becky and I would go on to

discover that the toaster oven

approach works equally well

with peanut butter and honey.Our experiments extended

to peanut butter and banana,

peanut butter and raisin, peanut

butter and marshmallow Ruff,

and, after reading about it in

the Mrs. Piggle-wiggle books,

peanut butter and dill pickle.

After all, peanut butter sand-

wiches are the quintessential

kid food, right?

It wasn't always that way.

Peanuts have been ground into

paste for hundreds of years,but it wasn't until the end of

the 19th century that John

Harvey Kellogg, the break-

fast cereal entrepreneur, dubbed

the product "peanut butter"

and marketed it as a health

food. In the years leading up to

the First World War, a peanut

butter sandwich was a chic and

thoroughly modern thing

Beginning in the 1920s,

peanut butter business cons

idated into a few megabrand

and peanut butter became

inexpensive food marketed

the masses. The introduction

of presliced sandwich bread

1928, meant that parents c

assemble a lunch in seconds

allow children to do it them

selves-and, thanks to pean

butter 's health food status,

they could feel virtuous abo

it. After World War II,whe

the u.s. sent aid toEuropethe form of peanut butter,

ingredient came to be seen

symbol of America itself.

By the 1960s, eating "nat

ural" peanut butter-free

of the hydrogenated oil tha

kept the industrial kind fro

separating-c-was a sign of

coun terculture sympathies.

Now, with the incidence of

During WorldWar II, peanut

butter came to b

recognized as an

edible symbol of

America itself

allergies at an all-time highin many schools, a child wh

packs a peanut butter sandw

must eat it at a specially des

nated table-perhaps all al

like Charlie Brown, who on

mused, "Some psychiatrists

say that people who eat pea

butter sandwiches are lonel

guess they're right."

I think I always knew th

peanut butter sandwich is

just a peanut butter sandwic

Even today, when I come asomething like peanut butt

and mayonnaise, a classic s

wich dating back at least to

the 1890s, it triggers a reac

close to fight-or-flight. The

proclivities are primal. Sho

your peanut butter sandwic

and I'll tell you who you ar

-Beth Krdcklauer

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EPONYMOUS SANDWICHES

J The Chuck Schumer is a custom-made Subway roast bee/with ext1

toes, onions, andpicklesno.med/or New Y01'kssenioTsenator,,g Thou

takes aman's name, the Strammer Max, butter-fried bTead topped w

ham and an egg, is actually GeTman slang /01' male virility. 1 1 In South

french fries, bologna, and achar was dubbed the Gatsby after the 197

The Great Gatsby, which played there at the t ime of the sandwich's in

1:Sloppy Joe was namedfor a cafe cook in Sioux City, Iowa.!: The Da

is a mult ilayer sandunchfrom the comic st1'ip "Blondie," .Ii Several pe

named Reuben have been credited with inventing grilled corned beef

kraut , Swiss cheese, and cTeamy dTessing on rye. (See page 86fOTreci

13

5 6

PUt grease in their hair. A milk-

shake was called a frappe. They

drank birch beer. Itwas a dlfler-

ent world.

There was a popular sand-

wich served at the college snack

shop called the Hergesheimer. It

was a cheeseburger with grilled

onions, bacon, and ketchup 011

toasted rye. An ourstanding

sandwich; I could eat one right

now. Hergesheimer was a formerstudent, and this was his order

of choice. Nobody remembered

him personally, but he's consid-

ered tohave been a great man. I

wanted to be a great man too. rwanted a reputation and, if pos-

sible, enduring fame. Itwas clear

what I had todo: 1 had to get a

sandwich named after me.

So night after night, I would

enter the college coffee shop

when it was crowded and request

some unusual but delicious sand-

wich, such as gril led bolo

on a toasted bagel with cr

cheese, raw onion, and gr

(bar~te-duc not being avai

The idea was that people

become curious and ultim

order the same thing: "Gi

one like Daniel is always

ing," which is a short step

christening the Daniel.

Itnever happened. I lef

place as I had come-anmous schnook. In later y

I did finally receive the h

when my friend Steve Kil

the proprietor of the Magi

Fountain cafe, in Hoboken

New Jersey, named a sand

after me: the Daniel, a pit

too much chili in it. As fa

know, nobody, including

has ever ordered one. -D

Pinkwater, author of Liz

Music (New York Review

Books Collection, 2011)

1871Inventor Margaret Knight

designs a machine that makes

flat-bottomed bags out of

brown paper, a form that, by

the 1960s, shrinks to sandwich

size for brown-baggtng lunch,

1891The WhiteHouse Co

prints early sandwich

pes, including one for

salad sandwich and o

ashredded cheese sal

between biscuits or o

Number 13 7 save u r ,

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SANDWICH

SoulFood"I'll order the bagels

and lox,"I overheard

my father say with

gravitas inhisvoice,

as he and my mother

planned my grand-

father's funeral, I wasfive years old, and it

was the first time I

made the connection

between life, death,

and cold -cured fish

sandwiches,

Wherever we went,

there they were on

someone's dining

room table-during

wedding brunches,

brises, baby

namings, shivahs,

my cousin Marcus's

bar mitzvah, and

every other momen-

taus life occasion,bothjoyousandsad_

The ubiquitous tray

of bagel and lox sand-

wiches, garnished

with slivers of red

onion and tomato,

always beckoned. A

child of New York

Jews growing up in

Queens in the 1960s,

I yearned for the food

that, as my grandfa-

ther had explained

it, symbolized the

sweet circle oflife

(bagels) and the salt-

iness of tears (lox).

Afew years later,

bagel shops had

sprung up all over

our neighborhood.

Myfather took their

appearance as an

opportunity to bring

bagels and lox home

most Sunday morn-

ings, not just on

'" special days. This

§ both desanctifiedoo

~ meant leftovers for

'"" Monday's school~'" lunch-sassem-

~ bled by my mother,

:i wrapped in plastic,

~ and deposited in a

z paper bag. While the

S other kids ate their

t;; bologna or peanut

~ butter, Ifelt privi-

"' leged to savor each

~ bite of silky fish, rich

:::;;cream cheese, and" ' : i8 chewy bagel. -Elissa

8 Altman,founderof:2 Poormansfeast.com

the sandwich and

70 saveur.com Number 1J 7

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SouthernCharmerPimento cheese makes a

sandwich for all ages

THE FIRST THING

Imade in my first

___ real kitchen-in an

apartment in Raleigh, North

Carolina-was a pimento cheese

sandwich. Itwas a naturalchoice for a college sophomore:

Ioved the stuff; and it was easy

to make. True, many South-

erners buy their P.c., as it is

often called, at the market, but

Iearned to make it from my

mother, who whipped up the

orange spread in her food pro-

cessor, blending extra-sharp

cheddar, Winn-Dixie-brand

mayo, pimientos, Tabasco, and

onion. I'd eat it every day on a

sandwich. It's a food Southerners

always have on hand, as suited

to lunch boxes as it is to din-

ner parties. Ihave memories of

swank soirees where there were

towers of pimento cheese on tri-

angles of crustless white bread.

Since 1909, when pimento

cheese sandwiches appeared in

T h e Up-to-Date Sandwich Book,

countless variations have been

cataloged. Most start with block

cheese (white or orange, the

sharper the better), mayonnaise

(purists insist on Duke's brand

or homemade), and pimien-

tos. A look through any Junior

League cookbook will turn

up extras like cream cheese,

chopped eggs, olives, WOITes-

tershire, lemon juice, garlic,

and sugaL My grandmother in

Lafayette, Louisiana, adds jala-

penos, and I've used roasted and

pickled red peppers. The tex-

ture also varies: You can grate

the cheese, use a food processor,

or go with a meat grinder, which

produces a soft, fluffy spread.

AJ[ of them taste good to me.

When Imoved to Brooklyn,

New York, years ago, P.c.

was virtually unknown, but

now the spread is in vogue.

I've seen pimento cheese in

restaurants-pureed, deco n-

structed, and deep-fried into

fritters. But I maintain that the

best way to eat it is on a sand-

wich. (See recipe on page 90.)

-RacheL Wharton, depu.tyeditor

of Edible Brooklyn and Edible

Manhattan

NICE SPREADS

Store-bouqh: ormail-orderepimento cheese can becrearchunky, sweet or spicy. Somites:! Carrie's,fTom CharleSouth Carolina, issnappy wWOTcesteTshiTe,Tabasco, aenn€. i!Mild and smooth PalCheese,jromPawleys IslanCarolina, is enriched with ccheese.s The chunky version

Blackberry Farm, in WallaTennessee, has a bright pepvorsharpened with aged ch

1 2

SANDWICH t i m et i n e

1909General Electric engineer Frank Shailor patents the D-12, the first com-mercially successful electric toaster. Though British firm Crompton &Company had introduced an iron-wire toaster in 1893, it was GE's use of anickel-chromium alloy that rendered toasters reliable and nonflammable.The Toastmaster l-A-l, the first pop-up model for home use, follows, in 1926.

~~~~~~ l~p~~y is born wh

New Orleans shop feed

sandwiches to striking

car workers, who are m

the kitchen with the cr

comes another poor bo

Number 13 7 save u r .

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The Ritualof It ali an

Beef

Thinly sliced, sopped with gar-

licky gravy, and heaped into a

length ofbrawny bread, Chicago's

Italian beef'is the sort of sand-

wich that politicians eat to prove

they're in touch with the peo-

ple. Even if you're not running for

office, it behooves you to know how

to order and eat one, lest you risk

being branded a street-food wuss,

or even worse (for politicians, any-

way), a pinkie-in-the-air beefin.

74 saveur.com Number 13 7

First, understand that an

Italian beefshop, of which

Chicago has scores, is not the sort

ofplace where waiters patiently

explain the menu-most don't

have one-and order takers do

not mollycoddle confused cus-

tomers. Thus, it is crucial to

know the lingo. Order "abeef,"

not "abeef sandwich." The latter

is redundant, because all Ital-

ian beef is served in a sandwich,

"Double-dipped" says you w

the whole sandwich submerg

gravy after it's been assemble

"Dry" is the opposite: a reque

for the server to pluck aheap

sliced, oven-roasted meat fro

the pan with tongs and shake

the excess juice before packi

it into the bread. Say "hot," a

your beefwill be topped with

spicy pickled-vegetable relis

called giardiniera; "sweet" r

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Z Sir Kensington's

Gourmet Scooping

Ketcbup is hot-sweet,thanks to theadditionofjalapenos and honey.Akin to cocktail sauce,itpairs wellwith acrabcake sandwich.

.§AnAmerican cousintoBritish piccalilli,cbow-chow is agreen-tomato and mustardrelish that's azestycounterpoint to burg-ers, hot dogs, and othersavory meats.

!!Eng/and's sweet andsmoky HP Sauce isanideal match f01'a steaksandwich. Its vinegar-chile notes and hint ofdriedfruit also make itperfect for roast pork.

.Y ! Chicago'sItal-ian beefwould beincomplete withoutgiardiniera, amix of

pickled vegetables thatincludes caulifiowe1'and olives.

l!Favored by theFrench for its crunchand pungent bite,whole-grain Djjon

mustard delivers tex-ture and spice toasandwich.

Y; The most facanvas for CheWhiz -spreadablecheese thabecomes a sauwarmed-is thcheesesteak.

!!!The syrupy,ketchup-basedtonkatsu sauce, withhints ofgarlic andginger, adds umami.fiavor toJapan'spanko- breaded pOTkcutlet sandwich.

. ! m . The yellow hue ofthe British relish pic-calilli hints at thehigh mustard con-tent, which makes ita shat'p partner fo?'mild deli meats suchas boiled ham.

22

!!Smooth and nutty,theMiddle East-ern tahini-basedsauce tarator addsan elegant richness toLebanese man'ousheh,koftapitas, and count-less other W1·aps.

23

~ The NOTthA/ri canhot sauce harissa,made with chiles andoil, is a beloved con-diment inMoroccoand Tunisia. Try iton a rnerguez sausagesandwich.

~ The t.ltrafieryBarbados HotYellow

Pepper Sauce, madewith mustat'd andScotch bonnet chile,adds a capsaicin biteto the cutter, aBajanfish sandwich.

24

&!A drizzle ofMSG-rich Ma

Seasoning-a

sic ingredientVietnamese ba

sandwich-impaintense, meatu

Number 137 s av eu r.

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Big, EasyNew Orleans' bellyfiller

has Sicilian roots

B

y NOO.NT.IME' t.h.eline.of people at Central

Grocery stretches down

Decatur Street. They're wait-

ing for the muffuletta, a New

Orleans sandwich of gargantuan

flavor and proportions that was

born at the store. Salvatore Lupo,

who opened Central Grocery

in 1906, created the muffuletta

for the Sicilian falmers selling

their goods at the French Quar-

ter market. (The name derives

from muJfuliette, a Sicilian col-

loquialism for soft rolls.) Inher

cookbook, Marie's Melting Pot

(T&M Publications, 1980),

Marie Lupo Tusa, Lupo's daugh-,

ter, describes how the farmers

would "order some salami, some

ham, a piece of cheese, a little

olive salad," and bread. To make

it all easier toeat, Lupo would

"cut the bread and put every~

thing on it like a sandwich."

The muflulerta's ham, Genoa

salami, provolone, and rnor-

tadella aren't unusual, but the

nine-inch-wide, sesame-seeded

round loaf and the salad of pick-led carrots, celery, peppers,

cauliflower, and olives make the

sandwich legendary. Unlike the

counter help in the Quarter,

when I concoct a muffuletta at

home, I have time to let it mari-

nate overnight, so that the flavors

meld, for a lunch so pungent and

evocative that I am transported

back to New Orleans. =-fotm

Mariani, author ojBow Ital-

ian Food Conquered the World

(PalgraveMaanuLan,201V

SANDWICH time line

1930The clubsandwich enters the congressional record when an appropriations billsets a debate in the House ofRepresentatives over the chicken club served in the

members dining room. "Look at the size ofthis piece ofchicken," shouts111 Massachusetts' Charles L.Underhill, measuring the clubagainst abiggert :O--'''''''"'''~ one from anearby restaurant, "and compare it with this piece of chicken!"

1954Alladin Industries rele

alunch box decorated

television cowboy Hop

Cassidy, thus commerc

the century-old practic

ingsandwiches inmet

Number 137 sa.veu r.

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SANDWICH

When I was grow-

ing up in Mexico

City, Sundays were

devoted to two things:

food andfutbol. Some

Sundays, my par-

ents' appetite would

lead us as far away

as Puebla, 80 miles

tothe east, Puebla isthe country's fourth-

largest city and thesource of some of its

most famous dishes,

and the Velazquez

de Leon troupe was

happy to try every-

thing, Or,Ishould

say, almost every-

thing, One local

specialty my family

always passed on was

the cetnitapoblana,

the queen of tortas

(sandwiches), Isup-

pose we were acting

out aprovincial feud,

AE . Chilangos (people

from Mexico City),

we were happy toaccept that Puebla

has superb food, but

tortas are aMexicoCity thing. Would a

New Yorker drive to

Boston for a bagel?

Years later, my

work often took me

to Puebla, and the

Mercado del Carmen

became a favorite

stop. Locals will tell

you that the Mercado,

one ofthe city's tra-

ditional markets, is

the place for cemi-tas; if Iwasgcing

to cheat on the tor-tasofmyyouth, I

was determined to

do itwith the best.

The distinguishing

characteristic of the

cemita is the breadit's served on: a fluffy

egg roll topped with

sesame seeds. The

sandwich is filled

with sliced avo-

cado, queso blanco(soft white cheese),

raw onions, chipotle

chiles, and some kind

ofmeat -typically

ham, chicken,piernaenadobo (roast pork

leg marinated in red

chile sauce), head-

Icheese, or milanesa

(thin, breaded veal

cutlets). Another

key element that

sets the cemita apart

from other tortas is

a handful of'fresh

papalo, a pungentherb that adds a pep-

perybite.

Istill remember

my first cemita withmilanesa at a food

stall in the Mercado

del Carmen. The

lukewarm meat and

crunchy breading

worked beautifully

against the fluffy roll

and buttery avocado.

Salty queso blancoand smoky chipotle

added intensity, and

the papalo rounded

everything out with

its cilantro-like zing.

From that moment

forward, my alle-

giance would forever

be divided when itcame to sandwiches.

-Mauricio Velcizquezde Leon, author of MyFoodie ABC: ALit-

tle Gourmet's Guide

(duopress,2010)

80 saveur.co m Number ll1

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ViennaInterludeThe glories of an empire,

served up as a canape

ON A SUNNY Saturday

morning, the colorful

trays of open-face sand-

wiches on display at Vienna's

Zum Schwarzen Kameel read

like a map of the Austro-

Hungarian Empire. Lined up

alongside Austrian Beinschinken

(boiled ham with freshly grated

horseradish) on black bread are

canapes topped with Hungar-

ian salami, and cream cheese

tinted orange by paprika. Here

too are Croatian anchovies, t iny

Adriatic shrimp, and roast beef

with artichokes. The Hapsburg

crown once reigned over some

20 European countries, nearly all

of them represented here in edi-

ble form; in Austria, as in much

of the rest of Central Eu rope,

the Baltics, and Scandinavia, the

two-slice Anglo-Saxon sandwich

has never displaced the elegant

open-face style.

Loden-clad men and ladies in

minks gather in the bar-deli-s-an

exhibit ofJug ends til mahoganyz paneling and glazed terra-cotta. . ::(

~ tile-and scrutinize the daily

8 spread before placing their order.Cl

g "GruB Gatt [Greetings]!" says>-

18·a man in a suit to almost every

g : arriving customer, which heg ;

ifi then follows with a bit of chat.~co«o

~ fact, I'd wager that few peopleI

z· in Vienna have a more encyclo-~: s pedic social knowledge of the

~ city than owner-manager Peter

~ Friese"whose family has been~

~N

-cz> =Zg

He seems toknow them all. In

SANDWICH time Li n e

running this institution for more

than two centuries. Opened by

Johan Baptist Cameel, in 1618,

as a shop selling exotic foods

and spices, it was acquired two

centuries later by Friese's ances-

corJoseph Stiebitz, who added a

wine tavern. The shop instantly

became one of the most popular

in Vienna, attracting aristo-

crats seeking relief from stiff

Hapsburg protocol, as well as

artists and musicians, including

Ludwig van Beethoven.

Just beyond the bar is an inti-

mate dining room that serves an

excellent schnitzel, but at Zum

Schwarzen Karneel, the real fun

lies in the people watching, the

eavesdropping, the sandwiches in

the bar (at right, Erna Lenhardt

plates a few during lunch ser-

vice), and the terrific assortment

of wines by the glass, includ-

ing my favorite pairing for a

plate of sandwiches, the fruity,

straw-color Gelber Muskareller.

During a visit last fall, a Viennese

matron with carefully coiffed

meringue-color hair looked over

appraisingly from the table next

tomine when I received my

quartet: curried egg and chive,

salmon, Be insch inken , and salami

made with Mangalitsa pork.

'}\h, very well done," she said."You want a variety of tastes

and textures." She also allowed

that she appreciates the fact that

Zum Schwarzen Kameel offers

a number of sandwiches made

without mayonnaise-an advan-

tage, in her opinion, because one

can eat them without removing

one's gloves. In Vienna, there's

a right way and a wrong way of

doing everything. -Alexander

Lobrano, author of Hungry for

Paris (Random House, 2010)

2000965~~ The first Subway sandwich shop opens in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Twenty years later,~ Subway goes international, with a shop next to a U.S. submarine base in Bahrain. Today,

'~. the world's largest sub franchise has annual sales of $15.2 billion, from~.MII·~4,000 stores in 96 countries, including Japan, where a chicken teriyaki..._' sub is served, and India, where the chain offers a chicken tikka sub.

82 save u r, com Number [37

J.M. Smucker introduces

Uner-ustables, frozen p

nut butter andjelly sand

pockets on crimped, cru

bread, designed tothaw

time for Junior's lunch

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Golden State of SandwichShe wore sunglasses. Her blonde hairwas long and wavy. Her skin was bur-nished deep copper from the sun. Whshe approached me on the beach thatday in Malibu, she wore nothing but a

macrame string bikini. Over her shouder, she carried an Ultrasuede fringebag, from which she pulled ...a sandwic"Sprouts, avocado, tomato, and Jackcheese," she told me. "Three dollars."handed me a plastic baggie containingthe ingredients she had assembled heself in her home kitchen and had tuckbetween slices of multigrain bread. Igave her my dollars, and she moved onBut I have never forgotten her. It was1979. I was 16years old and newly vegtarian, an East Coaster on holiday froamother who had taken to clucking, "just don't know what to feed you now.Back home, the beach was littered witthe mustardy ends of hot dogbuns solby sweaty guys in boardwalk stalls. Iunwrapped my sandwich and took a bThe sprouts crunched; the tomato tasbright; the avocado was creamy andnutty. The waves glistened and curledin the sun. Things sure are different i

California, I thought. -Betsy Andrew

2004Diana Duyser auctions offa ten-year-old grilledcheese sandwich half, which garners $28,000 on eBayfor its depiction of the Virgin Mary, The Hollywood,Florida, resident had been midway through lunchwhen, she says,"! saw a face looking up at me,"

Number 13 7 saveu r.

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SANDWICH

SANDWICHES

Asaltado Vegetariano

( S ti r- F r ie d Vege ta b le S a n dwi c h)

Serves 2

The mayonnaise-based sauce in this

hearty vegetable and cheese sand-

wich (pictured on page 43 ) from

Pasquale Herrnanos, chef Gast6n

Acurio's chain of sandwich shops

based in Lima, Peru, isflavored with

ground fresh rocoto, a spicy South

American chile.

]4 cup mayonnaise

" 4 cup rocoto paste (see page

104)

1 tsp. fresh lime juice

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 medium red onion, thinly

sliced

1 . medium green bell pepper,

stemmed, seeded, and thinly

sliced

aj f amarillo or banana pep-

pef, stemmed, seeded, and

thinly sliced

6 white button mushrooms,

stemmed and thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1"-piece ginger, peeled and

finely chopped

1 tbsp, soy sauce

1 tbsp. white wine vinegar

1 ripe tomato, cored, seeded,

and thinly sliced


ground black pepper, to taste

4 slicesMonterey Jack cheese

2 6" rectangular dabatta buns,

split and toasted1 cup arugula

1 4 cup cilantro leaves

1hisk together mayonnaise, roc-

oco, and lime juice in a small bowl;

set aside. Heat oil in a 14" wok or

skillet OYe[ high heat. Add onion,

bell pepper, and aji amarillo; cook,

stirring con srantly, until soft and

blistered at edges, about 8 min-

trees, Transfer co a large bowl. Place

mushrooms in wok and cook, stir-

ring consranrly, until browned,

2~3 minutes. Add garlic and gin-

ger; cook for 1~2minutes. Add soysauce and vinegar, cook for 30 sec-

onds, and transfer to bowl with

onions and peppers. Add tomatoes

to bowl, season with salt and pep-

per, and toss to combine.

2 Place 2 slices of cheese on the

bottom half of each hun, and top

with half the vegetable mixture.

Pour rococo sauce over vegetables,

86 saveu r.co rn Number 13 7

and top with arugula and cilantro.

Cover with top buns.

Bacon Butty

Serves 1

This beloved British sandwich (pic-

tured on page 78 ) uses a meaty CUt

of pork from the loin of the pig,

commonly referred to in North

America as back bacon. Tangy

HP Sauce makes a mouthwatering

counterpoint to the salty meat.

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, s o n -ened

6 slicesback bacon (see page

104)

1 crusty round roll, halved and

lightly toasted

2 tbsp. HP Sauce

Heat 1 tbsp. butter in a 10" skillet

over medium heat. Add bacon and

cook, turning once, until browned

and crispy, about 3 minutes. Mean-

while, spread remaining butter on

top and bottom of roll . Place bacon

on bottom half and top with HPSauce. Cover with roll top.

BanhMi

(Vietnamese-Style Sandwich)

Serves 4

According to Andrea Nguyen,

author of Into the Vietnamese

Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2006),

the baguette for this iconic Viet-

namese sandwich (pictured on

page 87 ) "should be light and airy,

with a ve[y delicate crumb that does

not fight Y O L l , but just frames thesandwich."

~ cup distil led white vinegar

~ cupsugar

% cup julienned carrots

\1 cup julienned daikon radish

Kosher salt, to taste

1 esp. canola oil

1 tbsp, finely chopped yellow

onion

12 oz. ground pork

2 tbsp. hoisin sauce

2 tbsp. soy sauce

tsp. toasted sesame oil

\1 tsp. Asian-style hot sauce\1 tsp. Chinese five-spice

powder

'h tsp. red food coloring

~ tsp. onion powder

~ tsp. garlic powder

~ tsp. freshly ground black

pepper, plus more to taste

4 10" Vietnamese baguettes or

Portuguese rolls, split

y. , cup mayonnaise

8 YiI"-thkkslicesVietnamese-

style pork roll (cha Ina) or

bologna

8 W'-thick slicesVietnamese-

style salami or ham

'h cup cilantro sprigs

% medium Engl ish cucumber,

cut lengthwise into 4 thickslices

Asian-style chile oil, to taste

1Make the slaw: Bring vinegar,

sugar, and - \ 1 . cup water [Q a boil

in a 2-qt. saucepan over high heat;

transfer to a medium bowl. Srir in

carrots, radish, and salt , and set the

slaw aside for 30 minutes. Drain.

2 Make the seasoned pork: Heat

oil in a 10" nonstick skillet over

medium heat. Add onion and cook,

stirring often, until soft, 2~3 min-

utes. Add pork, hoisin, 2 [Sp. soy

sauce, sesame oil, hot sauce, five-

spice powder, food coloring, onion

and garlic powders, and pepper.

Cook, stirring often, until browned,

5~6 minutes. Remove from heat and

set aside.

3Heat oven to400Q. Place baguenes

on a baking sheet and spread 1 rbsp.

mayonnaise inside both halves. Bake

until hot and slightly crisped, about

5 minutes. Remove from oven and

divide seasoned pork evenIybetween

baguettes. Top each with 2 slices

pOtk [0It, 2 sl ices salam i,1 tSp.

soy sauce, 1 ,4 of the cilantro, and 1

cucumber slice. Season with more

pepper and chile oil, and top withthe slaw. Close sandwiches.

California Sandwich

Serves 2

A version of a California classic, this

sandwich (pictured on page 83 ) is

a healthy mix of vegetables, whole-

grain bread, and Jack cheese, topped

with ranch dressing.

\4 cup buttermilk

1 4 cup sour cream

\4 cup mayonnaise

1 tbsp. finely chopped chives

1 rbsp . finely chopped parsleyY l tsp. garlic powder

1 .1 tsp. onion powder



4 slices multigrain sandwich

bread

2 slices Monterey Jack cheese

Yl cup alfalfa sprouts

1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and

thinly sliced lengthwise

ripe tomato, cored and

thinly sliced

Whisk together buttermilk,

cream, mayonnaise, chives,

ley, and garlic and onion po

in a small bowl. Season wit

and pepper, and spread on all

slices. Place 1 slice cheese eac

slices ofbread and top with s

avocado, and tomato. Season

salt and pepper, and cover

remaining 2 slices of bread.

Cemita Poblana

(Puebfa-StyLe Sandwich)

Serves 4

This regional Mexican fa

(pictured on page 80 ) from t

of Puebla comes with a vari

fillings; our favorite is the b

veal cutlet known as milanes

1 cup Hour

4 eggs, beaten

1 cup bread crumbs

4 \ 1 , " -thick vealcutlets

Kosher salt an.dfreshly


1 ,4 cup canola oil

4 round rolls, split and t

2 avocados, pitted, peele

thinly sliced

12 oz. queso blanco or mo

zarella, grated

8 thin slicesyellow onion

8 chipode chiles in adobo

finely chopped, plus 3

sauce from the can

1lace flour, eggs, and bread cin three separate shallow dishe

son veal with salt and peppe

coat with flour, shaking off

Dip in eggs, then dredge in

crumbs. Set aside.

2 Heat oil in a 12" skillet

medium-high heat, and coo

cutlets, turning once, until g

brown on both sides, about 6

utes. Using tongs, transfer to

towels to drain.

3 Place 1veal cutlet on the b

half ofeach roll and top withavocado, 3 oz. cheese, 2 slices

and Y , of the chiporle sauce.

with top bun.

The Chuck Schume

Serves 1

This pickle-laden roast beef

wich (pictured on page 65 )

to be New York senator C

Schumer's favorite custom-m

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order from rhe Subway sandwich

chain.

1 6" crusty Italian roll

2 tbsp, mayonnaise

1 tbsp. yellow mustard

3 slices roas t beef

1 ripe tomato, cored and

thinly sliced

~ cup drained dill pickle slices

lJ red onion, thinly sliced

.\ 4 cup drained banana pepper

slices

\ I . i cup pickled jalapenos



Open loafand spread mayonnaise on

bottom half and mustard on fOp.On

bottom half, layer roast beef, tomato,

pickles, onion, banana peppers, and

jalapenos. Season with salt and pep-

per, and cover with (Ophalf.

Crab Cake Sandwich

Serves 4

Chef David Lentz serves this addic-

tive sandwich (pictured on page

43)-fil led with sweet Dungeness

crab, spicy romesco sauce, and crisp

fennel salad-c-ar his Hungry Cat

restaurants in Hollywood and Santa

Barbara, California.

For the crab cakes:

1 cup finely crushed unsalted

crackers, such as saltines

~ cup mayonnaise

1 tbsp, Dijon mustard

1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp, Worcestersrure1 tsp. Tabasco

1 egg



1 tb. Dungeness crabmeat,

drained

For the aloli:

2 egg yolks

% cup canol a oil

~ cup extra-virgin olive oil


3 doves garlic, mashed

Kosher salt and cayenne

pepper, to taste

For the romesco:

'A cup re.dwine vinegar

2 slices (about 1 oz.) country

white bread

1 14-oz. jar roasted red pep-

pers,. drained

< } : ; cup toasted hazelnuts

% cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 rbsp. fresh lemon juice

14 tsp. freshly ground black

pepper


Hot paprika, to taste

For the sandwich:

5 tbsp, canula oil

4 square ciabatta buns, split

I cup loosely packed arugula

~ small bulb fennel, thinly

sliced

'A small red onion, thinly sliced

1ake the crab cakes: Combine

crackers, mayonnaise, mustard,

lemon juice, Worcestershire,

Tabasco, egg, salt, and pepper; add

crab and gently stir until combined.

Form four %"-thick parties and

transfer to a plate. Cover with plas-

tic wrap; chill until ready to use.

2Make the aroli:Whisk the yolks in

. .

Bank mi, a Vietnamese -style

sandwich with spicy fil lings

amedium bowl; asyou whisk, slowlydrizzle in oils until mixture is emul-

sified and thick. Whisk in lemon

juice, garlic, salt, and cayenne; cover

and refrigerate.

3Make the romesco: Combine vine-

gar and bread in a food processor; let

sit for 10minutes. Add red peppers,

hazelnuts, olive oil , lemon j{.:ice,

black pepper, salt, and paprika; pro-

cess until slighrly chunky. Transfer

to a bowl and refrigerate.

4 For the sandwich: Heat I tbsp,

oil in a 12" nonstick skillet overmedium hear. Add reserved crab

cakes and cook, turning once, until

browned and heated through, 6-8

minutes. Transfer to a plate and keep

warm.

5Heat a 12" cast-iron grill pan over

medium-high heat. Brush the cut

sides of buns with ~ tbsp. oil and

grill until golden brown, 2-3 min-

utes, Spread aioli on both halves of

buns; place a crab cake on the bottom

halves and top with rornesco sauce.

Toss arugula, fennel, and onion in a

medium bowl, and divide between

sandwiches. Cover with top halves.

Croque Madame

(Ham and Cheese With Fried Egg)

Serves 6

The croque monsieur, the classic

French ham and cheese sandwich

covered in cheesy bechamel,

becomes a madame (pictured on

page 54 ) when a fried egg isplaced

on top of it.

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

3 tbsp, flour

2 cups milk

12 oz. Gruyere, grated

~ cup finely grated Parmesan

cheese

Vadapav, a potato fritter sand-

wich popular in Mumbai

Kosher salt and freshlyground black peppee, to taste

Freshly grated nutmeg, to

taste

12 3~"-thick slices pain de mie

or Pullman bread, toasted

6 tbsp. Dijon mustard

12 thin slices baked ham

2 rbsp, canola oil

6 eggs

1ear butter in a 2-qt. saucepan

over medium-high hear. Add flour

and cook, whisking, until smooth,

about 1 minute. Whisk ill milk,

and bring to a boil, reduce heat tomedium-low and let simmer until

slightly reduced and thickened, 6-8minutes. Add Y l cup grated Gruyere

and the Parmesan, and whisk until

smooth. Season with salt, pepper,

and nutmeg.

2Heat broiler to high. Place 6 slices

bread on a parchment paper-lined

baking sheet, and spread 1 tbsp.

mustard over each. Top

slices ham and remaining

Broil until cheese begins

1-2 minutes. Top with re

bread slices, then pour a

amount ofbechamel on to

sandwich. Broil until chees

bubbling and evenly brown

3-4 minutes.

3Meanwhile, hear oil in a

stick skillet over medium h

eggs, season with salt and

and cook until whites are co

yolks are still runny, abou

utes. Place an egg on top

sandwich, and serve hot.

Cubano

(Cuban Ham and Cheese San

Serve, 1

This sumptuous gril led s

(pictured on page 55)-a c

Fried tomato hoagie from

ie's Italian Deli in Philade

filled with roast pork, hamcheese, and pickles-originat

Cuba but has caught on t

out the u.s.

2 rbsp, mayonnaise

1 8" Cuban roll , split

\ 0 . cup leftover roast po

shoulder, shredded

3 slices deli ham

3 slices Swiss cheese

10 dill pickle chips

I tbsp. yellow mustard

tbsp. canola oil

Spread mayonnaise on botof roll and top with por

cheese, and pickle chips.

mustard on top half of ro

bottom. Heat oil in a 10

over medium-high heat, a

sandwich, weighing it dow

cast-iron skillet and turnin

until golden brown and

melted, 8-10 minutes. Cu

and serve hot.

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pepper

'\ 4 tsp. ground cumin

3 cloves garlic

1 bunch Bat-leaf parsley

For the schnitzel.

4 cups flour

8 eggs, beaten

4 cups bread crumbs

~ cup crushed red chile flakes

12 W' -thick chicken cutletsKosher salt and freshly


'\4 cup canola oil

2 medium yellow onions,

thinly sliced lengthwise

4 12"French baguettes, split

Sweet chili sauce, to taste

4 cups loosely packed shred-

ded romaine lettuce

3 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced

% cup sliced dill pickles

1Make the pesta and chimichurri:

Combine basil, oil, nuts, garlic, and

salt and pepper in a food processor

and process until smooth; transfer

to a small bowl and set aside. Clean

food processor, and add oil, peppers,

white vinegar, salt , wine vinegar,

paprika, oregano, chile Rakes, pep-

per, cumin, gadic, parsley,and \4 cup

warer, Process until smooth; transfer

to a small bowl and set aside.

2 Place flour, eggs, and bread crumbs

mixed with chile Rakes in three sep-

arate shallow dishes; season floin

and chicken with salt and pepper.

Working in batches, coat cutlets

with Hour, shaking off excess. Dipin eggs, then dredge in bread crumb

mixture. Set aside.

3Heat oil in a 12" skillet over

medium-high heat. Working in

batches, add cutlets and cook, turn-

ing once, until golden brown, 4-6

minutes. Transfer to paper towels to

drain. Once all cutletsare cooked,

add half the onions to skillet and

cook, stirring often, until soft and

caramelized, about 8 minutes.

4 Place three cutlets on bottom half

of each baguette, and cover withsauces, to taste. Top each with let-

tuce, tomatoes, remaining raw

onions, cooked onions, and pickles,

and cover with top half of baguette.

Italian Beef

Serves 6

This spicy hot roast beef sandwich,

a Chicago classic, is drenched in a

garlicky gravy that permeates the

crusty roll.

1y" tbsp , crushed red chile flakes

1 tsp. red wine vinegar

3 pickled jalapenos, stemmed

and thinly sliced

3 ribs celery, thinly sliced



1 tbsp. dried basil

1 tbsp, dried oregano

4 doves garlic, finely chopped

2"\4-lb.beef sirloin tip roast,

trimmed

6 6" crusty Italian rolls, split

3 green bell peppers, cored,

seeded, thickly sliced, and

boiled until soft

1tir together half the chile flakes,

and the vinegar, jalapenos, celery,

salt, and pepper in a small bowl.

Cover pepper relish with plastic

wrap and refrigerate for 8 hours orovernight. .

2Heat oven to 425°. Combine

remaining chile flakes, plus the basil,

oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper in a

small bowl. Place roast in a roasting

pan, rub with half the spice mixture,

and wast for 20 minutes. Reduce the

heat to3500 and roast for another 20

minutes. Combine remaining spice

mixture with 4 cups water and add

to roasting pan; continue roasting

until an instant-read thermometer

inserted into the thickest part of the

meat reads 135°, 20-30 minutes.

Transfer roast to a cutting board

and let cool for 15 minutes. Skimfat from broth, and keep broth warm

in a large saucepan.

3Thinly slice beef and return to

broth until hot. Fill each roll with

some of the beef, broth, and green

peppers, and top with pepper

relish.

Man'oushe

(Herbed Vegetable Flatbread Sandwich)

Serves 4

A common street food in Leba-

non, manaeesh (pictured on page

53) are Harbreads spread with var-ious fillings, then folded over for

easy eating. This recipe is based on

one in Barbara Abdeni Massaad's

Man 'o us ht : I ns id e t he S tr ee t C o rn e rLebaneseB akery (Alarm, 2005).

For the dough;

3% cups Roue

1 tbsp. sugar

2 tsp. kosher salt

tsp. active dry yeast

1 tbsp. canola oil

For the filling and toppings;

Y i cup jarred za'atar (see page

104)

4 rbsp, olive oil, plus more for

brushing

medium yellow onion, finely

chopped

1 medium tomato, cored and

finely chopped

Kosher salt and &eshly


4 pickled turnips, drained and

cut into 'if'-square sticks (see

page 104)

\i cup fresh mint leaves

1ake the dough: Whisk flour,

sugar, and salt in a large bowl; set

aside. Stir together yeast and lYicups

water heated to 1150 in a small bowl,

and let sit until foamy, about 10

minutes. Add yeast mixture to flour,

along with oil, and stir until a dough

forms. Transfer to a Houred work

surface and knead until smooth,

6-8 minutes. Transfer to a lightly

floured bowl and cover with plastic

wrap; let sit until doubled in size,

about 2 hours. Punch down dough

and divide into fourths; knead each

into a ball . Place balls on a floured,

parchment paper-lined baking sheet

and cover with plastic wrap; let sit

for 30 minutes.

2 Stir together za' atar and oil in a

small bowl until smooth; set aside.

Heat a 12" cast-iron skillet overmedium-high heat. Working with

1 ball of dough at a time, transfer

to a work surface and roll into a 10"

circle; brush with oil and add toskil-

let, oiled side down, and brush top

with oil. Cook, turning once, until

browned and cooked through, 2-3

minutes. Spread za'atar mixture

evenly over each circle, top with

onion and tomato, and season with

salt and pepper. Top each with tur-

nips and mint leaves, and roll up or

fold in half to serve.

Mozzarella DreamServes I

The ultimate grilled cheese sand-

wich (pictured on page 44),

according to author Francine Prose,

includes Aleppo pepper, which adds

a dimension of spiciness to balance

the tangy sourdough bread and the

creamy mozzarella.

2 tsp. olive oil

2 y . ; " ' -thick slices fresh

mozzarella

2 !6 " slices sourdough

'/; tsp. Aleppo pepper (

104)

Heat oil in a 10"nonstick or

skillet overmedium heat. P

zarella between slices of br

add to skillet. Press sandw

a spatula or plate and cook

more oil if needed and turni

until golden brown and

melted, 6-8 minutes. Sprin

pepper before serving.

Muffuletta

Serves 4

At Central Grocery in New

they use their famous olive

dress deli meats and chees

irrestible sandwich (pictu

page 79). It's best eaten the

it's made, to allow the salad

nate the other ingredients.

I'/; cups coarsely choppe

flower florets

'h cup extra-virgin oliv

h tsp. dried oregano

1; 2 tsp. dried thyme

2 small carrots, roughl

chopped

2 small ribs celery, thin

sliced

'l4 cup chopped pitted

nicoise olives

% cup chopped pitted

olives

~ cup chopped roasted

peppers'/ ; cup jarred, drained,

banana peppers

2 tbsp. red wine vineg

Kosher salt and fresh

ground black pepper

1 8"-10" round loaf I

bread with sesame s

6 oz. thinly sliced deli

6 oz. thinly sliced Gen

salami

6 oz. thinly sliced mor

6 oz. thinly sliced prov

1ring cauliflower, oil,

thyme, carrots, celery, andwater to a boil in a 2-qt. s

over medium-high heat.

heat to medium-low and

covered, until vegetables

tender, 10-12 minutes. Tr

a medium bowl and stir i

peppers, vinegar, salt, and

let cool.

2 Halve loaf and, using you

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a medium bowl. Set Russian dress-

ing aside.

2Working on a cutting board,

spread 1 tSp. butter on each slice of

bread; turn over and top with Rus-

sian dresssing. To 4 of the slices add2 slices of cheese, licup sauerkraut,

and 4 oz. corned beef each. Top each

with remaining bread slices.

3Heat a 12" skillet over medium

heat, and working in batches, add

sandwiches. Cook, pressing con-

stantly and rurning once, until

golden brown and crisp, about 10

minutes. Serve hot.

Roast Pork Sandwich

Serves 6

Chef April Bloomfield serves this

sandwich (pictured on page 43)

with tuna-anchovy mayonnaise on a

crusty roll at the John Dory Oyster

Bar, in New York Ciry .

For the brine and the pork:

2 cups kosher salt

3 bay leaves

3 sprigs rosemary

3 sprigs thyme

1 head garlic, halved crosswise

% bunch Bat-leaf parsley

1 boneless pork loin (2-3 lb.),

tied with kitchen twine



2 cups white wine

For the tuna mayonnaise:

1 tbsp, red wine vinegar2 eggyolks

1 cup canola oil

1!h tbsp. capers, drained, rinsed,

and finely chopped

1~ tsp. crushed red chile flakes

l'A tbsp. finely chopped drained

anchovy filets in oil

5 oz. high-quality jarred tuna

in oil, drained and flaked

into small pieces



For the sandwiches:

.)-.\ cup red wine vinegar¥ .i cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 red onion, thinly sliced



6 crusty sandwich rolls

4 oz. arugula

1rine the pork: Bring salt, bay

leaves, rosemary, thyme, garlic,

parsley, and 1 gallon of water to a

boil in an 8-qt. saucepan over high

heat; stir until salt dissolves. Remove

from heat and let cool to room

temperature. Add pork and cover

saucepan. Refrigerate for 12 hours

or overnight.

2 Heat oven to 350° . Remove pork

from brine and dry with paper tow-

els. Place in a shallow roasting pan,

generously season with salt and pep-

per, and add wine. Place pan on oven

rack, and roast until pork reaches

an internal temperature of 140 0 for

medium or 150° for medium-well

done, 40-50 minutes. Remove from

oven and let rest for 30 minutes.

3Meanwhile, make the mayonnaise:

Whisk together vinegar and yolks in

a large bowl. While whisking, slowly

drizzle in oil , until emulsified and

thick, then add capers, chile flakes,

and anchovies. Add tuna and mix

gently to combine. Season with salt

and pepper, and refrigerate.

4To assemble the sandwich, reduce

oven temperature to 325° . Combine

vinegar, oil, onion, salt, and pepper

in a small bowl; let sit for 10 min-

utes. Slice rolls, put back together,

and place on baking sheet in oven;

toast for 5 minutes. Remove buns

from oven and spread mayonnaise

mixture on all halves. Thinly slice

pork, and place 3-4 slices on bot-

tom buns. Drain onions, reserving

liquid, and place on top of pork.

Lightly toSSarugula with some ofthe

onion marinade, and place on top ofonions. Cover with co p buns. ~

Sardine Sandwich

Serves 2

Briny sardines get added intensity

from fresh onion and Dijon mus-

tard in this open-face sandwich

(pictured on page 56) , from chef

and radio host Mike Colarneco.


2 slices rye bread, toasted

2 large leaves bibb lettuce

1 4-oz. can sardines in oil,

drained, plus 2 tsp. reservedoil

Y :! small yellow onion, thinly

sliced crosswise



Spread mustard evenly over each

slice ofbread and top with 1 lettuce

leaf. Divide sardines evenly between

sandwiches and top with onion.

Drizzle with reserved oil, and sea-

son with salt and pepper.

Sardine Sandwich WithHorseradish Cream

Serves 2

This update on the classic sardine

sandwich combines spicy horserad-

ish cream with rich French sardines

and pickled onions.

- \ I , i cup rice-wine vinegar

1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. black peppercorns

' ! 4 . small red onion, thinly sliced

2 tbsp. mayonnaise

1 tbsp, prepared horseradish

\i tsp. fresh lemon juice

2 slices pumpernickel bread,

toasted

2 leaves red-leaf lettuce

1 4-oz. can French sardines

in oil, drained, plus 2 tsp.

reserveJ oil

roasted red bell pepper, cut

into dun strips



Bring vinegar, sugar, and pepper-

corns to a boil in a small saucepan.

Add onions and remove from heat;

let sit for 30 minutes, then chill . In

a small bowl, whisk together may-

onnaise, horseradish, and lemon

juice; spread mixture over each slice

of bread, and top each with 1 let-

tuce leaf. Divide sardines evenly

between sandwiches, and top with

pepper and pickled onions. Drizzle

with reserved oil, and season withsalt and pepper.

The Schmitter

Serves I

In this adaptation of a Philadel-

phia favorite (pictured on page

51) , created at McNally's Tavern

in Chestnut Hill, roast beef and

griddled salami are stacked on a

kaiser roll with cheese, tomato, and

onion.

1 .\ cup mayonnaise

1% tbsp, sweet pickle relish

1 tbsp. ketchup1 .\ tsp. Worcestershire

1 rbsp, unsalted butter

4 oz. thinly sliced roast beef

4 thin slices yellow onion

2 oz. cooked salami, preferably

Hatfield's

3 slices white American

cheese

2 %" -thick slices tomato

1 4" kaiser roll

IMake the Schmitter sauc

together the mayonnaise,

ketchup, and Worcestersh

small bowl. Set aside.

2 Heat butter in a 10" ski

medium hear. Add roa

stacked together on one sid

let, and onion slices, loosel

together on the opposit

Cook until the roast beef

brown, about 3 minutes.

stack and cook until brow

the other side, about 1 min

onion slices, and, using a m

ula, transfer beef on top o

allowing the meat to con

cook. Place salami, stacked

on the opposite side of th

and top with 1 cheese slic

the tomato. Cook until th

is browned on the botto

the cheese begins to melt,

minutes.

3Meanwhile, split roll and

sides lip on a baking sheet.

side with 1 cheese slice, a

until the cheese is melted

roll is toasted, about 30 seco

salami over and on top of

onions, then transfer enti

to bottom roll. Top with S

sauce and cover wfth roll to

Sloppy Joe

Serves 4

Popular throughout Am

an easy way to stretch m

sandwich (pictured on pag

ground beef and spicy tomais a cl assic.

1 tbsp, canola oil

" h small yellow onion,

chopped

Y4 green bell pepper, co

seeded, and finely ch

8 oz. ground beef

1 cup canned tomato

2 tsp. Worcestershire

1 up. chili powder


ground black pepper

Tabasco, to taste

4 hamburger buns, toa

Heat oil in 12" skillet over

high heat. Add onion and

and cook, stirring, until so

6 minutes. Add beef and c

browned, stirring so that

breaks up into small piece

8 minutes. Add tomato

Worcestershire, chili pow

pepper, and Tabasco; co

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SANDWICH

ring occasionally, until reduced and

thick, about 1 0 minutes. Divide

between buns and serve.

SPAMand Cheese

SandwichServes 8

The Kogi Korean BBQ truck, in

Los Angeles, gave us the recipe for

this flavorful sandwich (pictured on

page 55)~nicknamed Daisy Dukes

and Flip-Flaps-made with SPAM,

shredded cheddar and] ack cheeses,

and kimchi,

1 12-oz. can SPAM

y, cup mayonnaise

2 tbsp, coconut milk

2 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

1 tbsp. canola oil

8 potato rolis, split

1 . cup shredded cheddar cheese

cup shredded Monterey Jack

cheese

8 tbsp, sweet chili sauce

4 tsp. sriracha hot sauce

8 rbsp, roughly chopped pre-

pared cabbage kimchi

8 [Sp.finely chopped fresh

cilantro

1 Slice SPAM into 8 slices, then

halve each slice crosswise. Set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together may-onnaise, coconut milk, and sesame

seeds; set aside. Heat oil in a J 2"

skillet over medium-high heat. Add

SPAM to skillet and cook, turning

once, until browned, 8~10 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer to paper tow-

els to drain; set aside. Working inbatches, place rolls in skillet and

toast until browned, I~2 minutes.

2 Heat oven to 350°. To assemble

sandwiches, spread coconut may-

onnaise on both halves of buns,

then divide cheeses among bottom

halves. Top eachwith 2 slices SPAM,

1 cbsp. chili sauce, 'i s tSp. hot sauce,

I rb sp , kimchi, and 1 tsp. cilantro.

Cover with top buns and place in

oven. Bake until cheese begins to

melt, 3~4 minutes. Serve hot.

Strammer MaxServes 2

This hearty German sandwich (pic-

tured on page 65) on thick-sliced

country bread calls on a classic

combination: cured ham and fried

eggs.

4 rbsp, unsalted butter

2 Y);"·dlickslices country bread

4 slices prosciutto


2 eggs

1 tbsp, finely chopped chives



Heat 4 tbsp, butter in a 10" skillet

over medium-high heat. Add bread

slices and cook, turning once,

until golden brown, 5~6 minutes.

Transfer bread to a plate and top

each with 2 slices prosciutto. Heat

remaining butter in skillet and add

eggs; cook until whites are cooked

through and yolks are still runny,

2~3 minutes. Top each sandwich

with 1 egg, and sprinkle with %

tbsp. chives and salt and pepper.

Serve hot.

Sweetbread PitaServes 2

ChefYossi Elad makes rhis spicy

pita sandwich (pictured on page

43) at Machneyuda, his restaurant

in Jerusalem.

2 tbsp, canol a oil

1 small yellow onion, roughly

chopped

1 tsp. ground turmeric

~ tsp. ground cumin

4 oz. sweetbreads, cleaned,

blanched, pressed, and cut

into 1" chunks



~ cup Greek-style yogurt

2 10" pita

Chopped arnba, to taste (see

page 1 04 )

Roughly chopped preservedlemons, to taste

~ jalapeno, stemmed, seeded,

and fil1eiychopped

1eat oil in a 12" skillet over

medium-high heat. Add onions

and cook, stirring often, until soft,

5~6 minutes. Add turmeric and

cumin, and cook, stirring, until

onions begin to caramelize, 2~3

minutes; transfer to a bowl. Add

sweetbreads to skillet , and season

with salt and pepper. Cook, [lim-

ing once, until browned, about 4

minutes. Return onions to skil-let and cook, stirring often, until

onions are caramelized and sweet-

breads are heated through, about

2 minutes. Remove from heat and

set aside.

2To serve, spread yogurt on each

pita, then top with aruba and lem-

ons. Add sweetbreads and onions,

and top with jalapeno.

Torta Ahogada

(Mexican "Drowned» Sandwich)

Serves I

This popular Mexican sandwich

(pictured on page 81 ) from the state

of [alisco is filled with crisp roast

pork, then "drowned" in a spicy

chile de arbol sauce.

JA oz. dried chiles de iirbol

(about 30), stemmed and

seeded

'A cup cider vinegar

2 tbsp, pumpkin seeds, toasted

UI,. tbsp, sesame seeds, toasted

1 tsp. dried oregano

tsp. kosher salt

Y .i tsp. ground cumin

'Y 8 tsp, groundaJlspice

'is [Sp.ground cloves

2 cloves garlic

1 crusty bolillo or J talian roll

1% cups leftover roasted pork

shoulder, shredded

lA small yellow onion, thinly

sliced

radish, thinly sliced

1ombine chiles, vinegar, pump-

k in an d sesame seeds, oregano, salt,

cumin, allspice, cloves, and garlic

in a blender, and puree until very

smooth. Pour through a medium

strainer into a bowl, discard solids,

and stir in % Ctlpwater.

2 Heat oven to 350°. Split roll and

fill bottom half with pork. Place on

baking sheet and bake until warmed

through and bread istoasted, about

6 minutes. Add onion, radish, andtop bun; pour chile de arbol sauce

oversandwich, and let sit,so that the

sauce soaks in.

VadaPav

(Potato Fritter Sandwich)

Serves 8-10

A staple of Mumbai street stalls,

these ~aromatic fried potato-fritter

sandwiches (pictured on page 87)

are slathered with coriander and

tamarind chutneys and served on a

buttered, roasted rolL See page 10 4

for hard-to-find ingredients.

For the coriander chutney:

2 cups chopped cilantro

2 thsp. fresh lemon juice

2 tbsp. roasted peanuts

2 tbsp, desiccated coconut

2 tsp, kosher salt

2 jalapenos, stemmed

For the tamarind chutney:

8 oz. tamarind paste

1 tbsp, canola oil

2 tsp. fennel seeds

* [sp. black mustard seed

1 serrano chile, stemmed

finely chopped

";,i cup packed dark brown

sugar

% l cup pitted dates, finely

chopped

y .j cup raisins

1 tsp. hot paprika

For the vada:

- \ 1 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus m

taste

1 ' ' \ ' 2 lb. russet potatoes, peel

and cut into I" chunks

2 tbsp, canola oil

7 .\ [sp. black mustard seed

" I S tsp. asafetida (see page

1 Yi"-pieceginger, peeled

minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

% tsp. ground turmeric

1 small yellow onion, fin

chopped

1 serrano chile, stemmed

finely chopped

y , ; cup finely chopped cila

1 ,4 cup finely chopped min

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 cup chickpea flour

1 ,4 cup rice flour

\< i cup plain yogurt

1 [Sp. ground coriander

'!6 tsp. ground cumin

" h tsp. baking soda

Canola oil, for frying

2 tbsp, unsalted butter

8 store-bought Parker H

rolls, split but left hing

1ake the coriander chu

Place cilantro, lemon juice, pe

coconut, salt, jalapenos, and

water in a blender, and puree

smooth. Transfer to a small

and set aside.

2Make the tamarind chutney

the tamarind paste and 2 cups

in a I-qt, sauce pan over me

high heat; cook, stirring,

tamarind dissolves. Pour th

a medium strainer into a

bowl, pressing on solids to eall pulp; discard solids and se

pulp. Heat oil in a 2-qt. sau

over medium-high heat. Ad

nel, mustard seeds, and chile;

stirring, until lightly browned

minutes. Add reserved tam

pulp, brown sugar, dates, r

paprika, and 1cup water, and

to a boil. Reduce heat to me

low and cook, stirring, until re

8/7/2019 saveur-2011-04-apr


and thick, about 10minutes. Trans-

fer to a small bowl and set aside.

3 Make the vada: Bring a 4-qt.

saucepan of salted water to a boil,

and add potatoes; cook until ten-

der, about 10-12 minutes. Drain

in a colander, then pass through a

pOIaw ricer into a large bowl; set

aside. Heat oil in a 2-qt. saucepan

over medium-high heat. Add mus-

tard seeds and asafetida and cook,

stirring, until fragrant, 3-4 min-

utes. Add ginger and garlic and

cook, stirring, umillighdy browned,

20-30 seconds. Add ' l i t tSp. tur-

meric, onion, and chile, and cook,

stirring, until Hghdy browned, 3-4

minutes. Transfer (0bowlwith pota-

toes, along with cilantro, mint, and

juice; season with salt and stir until

well combined. Shape mixture into

2" balls and transfer to a parchment

paper-lined baking she~t; refriger-

ate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, whisk

together"!6 tsp. salt, remaining tur-

meric, chickpea and rice flours,

yogun, coriander, cumin, baking

soda, and % cup water until smooth;

set aside.

4Pour oil into a 6-qt. Dutch oven

to a depth of 2", and heat over

medium-high heat until a deep-fry

thermometer reads 360Q.Working

in batches, use a slotted spoon to

dip potato balls into chickpea barter,

shaking off excess, and transfer to

oil. Fry, turning occasionally, until

browned and puffed, 2-3 minutes.

Transfer to a paper towel-lined plateto drain.

5To assemble, heat butter in a 12"

skillet over medium-high heat. Add

rolls, cut sides down, and cook until

toasted, about 3 minutes. Spread I

tbsp. coriander chutney inside top of

each roll and I rbsp, tamarind chut-

ney inside bottom ofeach roll. Place

a potato ball in each and close, then

gently smash.

SALADS

Blue Ribbon's Tuna SaladMakes about 6 cups

This recipe (pictured on page 69),

calling for fresh, steamed tuna

in place of canned, comes from

Bromberg Bros. Blue Ribbon Cook-

book by Bruce Bromberg, Eric

Bromberg, and Melissa Clark

(Clarkson Potter, 2010).

4 6-m. tuna filets

IJ cup mayonnaise

" Y 4 cup finely chopped red

onion

'~ cup finely chopped parsley

2 rbsp, capers in brine,

drained and rinsed

Juice of 1 lemon



1ring 1" ofwater to a boil in a large

pot; place tuna filets in a steamer

basket, and place in poc. Cover pot

and cook tuna until cooked through

but slightly pink in the center, 10-12

minutes. Remove from POt and let

cool.

2Flake tuna into bite-size pieces and

transfer to a large bowl, along with

mayonnaise, onion, parsley, capers,

lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Toss to

combine, and chill before serving.

Cajun Shrimp Salad

Makes about 5 cups

This seafood salad (pictured on

page 69), from Alexander Hoover

of Hoover's Cooking restaurant

in Austin, is made with grilled or

smoked shrimp and a spicy cream

cheese dressing.

2 1 2 lb.jnedium shrimp, peeled

and deveined

l, 1 cup Italian salad dressing

1 rbsp, plus 1*tsp. Cajun

seas 0nin g

6 oz. cream cheese, softened

l1 ! cup mayonnaise

~ cup finely chopped celery.~ cup finely chopped scallions

1 rbsp, fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

1ombine shrimp, dressing, and 1

tbsp. Cajun seasoning in a medium

bowl; set aside. Heat a large griUpan

over medium-high heat, and add

shrimp; cook, turning once, until

just cooked, 3-4 minutes. Transfer

to a bowl to cool.

2 Stir cream cheese and mayon-

naise in a large bowl until smooth.

Add remaining Cajun seasoning,celery, scallions, lemon juice, and

parsley, and stir until combined.

Add shrimp, and toss to coat. Serve

chilled or at room tempemture.

Coronation Chicken

Makes about 6 cups

Made for Queen Elizabeth II 's cor-

onation lunch, in 1953, this curry

powder- and mango chutney-laced

chicken salad (pictured on page 68)

has been wildly popular in Britain

ever since.

10 whole black peppercorns

2 ribs celery, roughly chopped

2 yellow onions (1 roughly

chopped, 1 finely chopped)

1 4-lb. whole chicken

1 3"-piece ginger, peeled

(2" thinly sliced, 1" finely

chopped)

leek, roughly chopped

1 head garlic, halved crosswise,

plus 2 cloves, finely chopped

1 star anise

Y i lemon, thinly sliced

!4 orange, thinly sliced


3 tbsp. unsalted butter

1 tbsp, curry powder

y .j cup Hour

y .j cup heavy cream

2 tbsp. currants

2 tbsp, finely chopped dried

apricots

1y .j cups mayonnaise

\4 i cup Greek-style yogurt

l4 cup mango chutney


Freshly ground black pepper,

to taste

\Ii cup slivered toasted almonds

1lace peppercorns, celery, roughly

chopped onion, ch icken, thinly

sliced ginger, leek, halved garlic

head, star anise, lemon, orange, and

salt in a 6-qt. saucepan; add water,

covering ingredients by 1".Bring to

a boil over high heat, reduce heat tomedium-low, and simmer, partially

covered, for Ihour. Remove sauce-

pan from heat and Jetcool. Remove

chicken from pan and set aside.

Pour stock through a fine strainer

into a 4-qr. saucepan, and bring

to a boil over high heat; cook until

reduced to I cup, about 1)£hours.

Let cool. Meanwhile, remove meat

from chicken and tear into thick

strips, discarding skin and bones;

refrigerate.

2To make the sauce, heat butter in

a 2-qt. saucepan over medium hear.Add finely chopped onion, ginger,

and garlic and cook, stirring, until

soft, 3-5 minutes. Add curry pow-

der, cook for 2 minutes, and stir

in flour. Cook, stirring, for about

1 minute. Add reduced stock and

bring to a boil; cook, stirring con-

stantly, until thick, 1~2 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in cream.

Pour sauce through a fine strainer

into a large bowl and disc

ids. Stir currants and apric

sauce, and let cool. Add ma

yogurt, chutney, and lemon

cooled sauce, season with

pepper, and whisk to comb

chicken to cooled sauce, an

combine; refrigerate. Add

just before serving.

Katz's Chopped L

Makes 4'/. cups

This famous liver spread (

on page 68), enriched with

(rendered chicken fat), is a

Katz's Delicatessan, on N

City's Lower East Side.

served plain, as it is at K

rye bread.

1 lb. beef livers, cleane

1 lb. chicken livers, cle

l, 4 cup canol a oil

1 large yellow onion, t

sliced

6 tbsp. rendered chick

2 hard-boiled eggs


ground black pepper

Heat broiler to high, and p

livers on an aluminum f

baking sheet. Broil, turnin

until cooked through, abou

utes; transfer to a food p

Place chicken livers on bak

and broil until cooked t

8-10 minutes; add to food

sor. Heat oil in a 10" ski

medium heat and add onio

stirring often, until soft, 10utes. Transfer to food pw

along with fat, eggs, salt,

per; pwcess until smooth.

to a medium bowl, cover w

tic wrap, and chill.

Lobster Salad

Makes about 3 cups

The recipe for this classic N

land lobster salad (pictured

68) comes from Jasper Wh

Summer Shack Cookbook

Narron, 2007). The comb

of lobster, mayonnaise, a

cucumber is unbeatable ibuttered roll.

1 lb. cooked lobster m

into - % _ " chunks

" h cup mayonnaise

3 scallions, trimmed a

thinly sliced

1 medium cucumber,

seeded, and cut into

cubes

Number 13 7 save u r

8/7/2019 saveur-2011-04-apr


SANDWICH



In a large bowl, gently stir together

lobster, mayonnaise, scallions,

cucumber, sal t, and pepper.

Neiman Marcus Chicken

Salad

Makes about 6 cups

Famed Texas cook Helen Corbin

created this rich chicken salad (pic-

ture on page 69 ) for the cafe menu

at Neiman Marcus department

stores in the 19505. I t' s del icious on

toasted mulrigrain bread with let-

tuce and tomato.

lb. cooked chicken breasts,

cut into l,4" cubes

cup mayonnaise

1 cup thinly sliced celery

cup halved purple grapes

1 ,4 cup sliced almonds, wasted

1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

1 . tsp, kosher salt, plus more to

taste

1 ,4 cup whipped cream


to taste

Combine chicken, mayonnaise, cel-

ery, grapes, almonds, parsley, and

salt in a bowl. Add whipped cream

and pepper; fold to combine.

Salat izYaits i Gribov

(Russian Egg and Mushroom Salad)

Makes about 2 cups

This easy Russian salad (pictured

on page 69 ) comes from Anya

von Brennen's P le as e to th e T a ble :

The Russian Cookbook (Workman,

1990). Serve it open-faced on t h i ck

sourdough rye with dill pickle

spears.

5 tbsp. canola oil

lb. white button mush-

rooms, roughly chopped

% medium yellow onion,

roughly chopped

l, 0 cup finely chopped fresh dill

4 hard-boiled eggs, roughly

chopped

% cup mayonnaise2 tbsp ..Dijon mustard

tbsp. fresh lemon juice



1eat 3 rbsp, oil in a 10" skillet over

medium-high heat, and add mush-

rooms; cook, stirring often, until

browned, 14-16 minutes. Trans-

fer to a large bowl and set aside.

94 saveur.co m Number III

Heat remaining oil in skillet and

add on ion; cook, stirring often,

until lightly caramelized, about

10 minutes. Transfer to bowl with

mushrooms, along with dill and

eggs.

2Whisk together mayonnaise, mus-

tard, and lemon juice in a medium

bowl. Add to mushroom mixture

and toss until evenly combined; sea-

son with salt and pepper.

Sildesalat(Danish Smoked Herring, Beet , (md

Potato Salad)

Makes about 3 cup.

Smoked herring, boiled potatoes

and beets, and mustard make a

refreshing salad (pictured on page

68) to serve on dark rye as part of

a Danish-style sm@rrebr@d platter

with crisp gherkins.


1 russet potato, peeled and

quartered

8 oz. smoked herring, finely

chopped

6 oz. boiled beets, finely

chopped

2 tbsp, Dijon mustard

- \6 yellow onion, finely chopped


to taste

Bring a medium saucepan of salted

water to a boll and add potato.

Cook until tender, 16-18 minutes;

drain and Jet cool. Finely chop and

transfer to a large bowl, along with

herring, beets, mustard, onion, salt,

and pepper. Toss to combine; chill

before serving.

Southern Ham Salad

Makes about 4 cups

Leslie Orlandini, a food stylist and

friend of SA V EU R, introduced us to

this spicy ham salad (pictured on

page 68), our favorite lise for left-

over baked ham,

1 lb. baked ham, cut into 1"

chunks

8 gherkinspickled jalapeno

j,) cup mayonnaise


2 tbsp, finely chopped parsley

3 scallions, thinly sliced

2 ribs celery, thinly sliced

crosswise

% red onion, finely chopped



Place ham, gherkins, and jalapeno

in a food processor, and pulse until

roughly chopped. Transfer c o a large

bowl, along with mayonnaise, mus-

tard, parsley, scallions, celery, onion,

salt, and pepper; stir until combined.

Chill before serving.

CONDIMENTS

Mechwiya

(Roasted Pepper Salad)

Make. 1'/. cups

This tart pepper relish (pictured on

page 76) from north Africa is a great

topping for lamb kebabs and other

sandwiches.

2 tbsp, fresh lemon juice

2 tbsp. olive oil

tbsp, finely chopped pre-

servedIemoo peel

tsp. groundcnmin

1 tsp. f inely chopped parsley

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 roasted red bell peppers,

drained and finely chopped

Kosher sal t and freshJy


Combine lemon juice, oil, lemon

peel, cumin, parsley, garlic, bell

peppers, salt, and pepper in a

medium bowl. Let sit for 30 mill-

utes to allow the flavors to come

together.

Pickled Blueberries

Makes 3JI> CUP"

Chef Tyler Kord, of No. 7 Sub Shop

in New York City, created these

sweet-tart pickled blueberries (pic-

tured on page 76) for his sandwich

of brie, pistachios, and chervil .

1 cup dist illed white vinegar

~ cup sugar

1~ tbsp. kosher salt

1~ lb. blueberries

1 small fed onion, thinly sliced

Whisk vinegar, sugar, salt, and ~

cup water in a medium bowl until

sugar and salt dissolve. Add blue-

berries and onion, and cover with

plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnightbefore using.

Schug

(Yemenite Chile Relish)

Makes 2 cups

Piquant schug (pictured on page 76)

makes a fantastic condiment for pita

and falafel sandwiches. This recipe is

based 011 one in Claudia Roden's The

B ook of lew ish Food (Knopf, 1996).

8 02, jalapenos, stemmed

2 cups fresh cilantro

5 tbsp, canol a oil

1 tsp. caraway seeds

6 cloves garlic, chopped

4 pods green cardamom,

removed and reserved


Combine jalapenos, ci lantro, o

away seeds, garl ic , cardamom

salt, and 5 tbsp, water in a foo

cessor, and puree until smooth

Tonkatsu Sauce

Makes about 1' /, cups

This popular Japanese c

ment (pictured on page 76)

key sauce on a fried pork ton

sandwich.

tsp. dry mustard powde

1 cup ketchup

Y l cup Worcestershire

4 tsp, soy sauce

Whisk together mustard and

water in a bowl until smooth.

ketchup, \XTorcestershire, an

sauce, and whisk until smooth

DESSERTS

Fromage Blanc, Bana

and Membrillo Sandw

Serves I

This sweet sandwich (picture

page 52) fwm Tarrine Bake

Cafe in San Francisco, is p

and griddled to melt the c

banana, cheese, and quince

and toast the bread.

2 )6" -thick sl ices country

2 tbsp. fromage blanc

1 banana, peeled and cut

W'-dlick rounds

~ cup softened membrillo



1 tbsp. unsalted butter, m

1 tbsp, olive oil

Top one slice of bread with

age blanc and bananas;

membrillo on other slice, anson with salt and pepper.

sandwich and brush ~ith

and oil. Heat a to" skillet

medium-high heat and add

wich; cook, weighing it

with a cast-iron skillet and

ing once, until golden brown

sandwich is heated through,

3 minutes. Cut into 3 pieces

serve hot.

8/7/2019 saveur-2011-04-apr


Ice Cream Loti

(Singapore lee Cream Sandwich)

Serve. 16

This ice cream sandwich (pictured

on page 52) , sold as a street snack in

Singapore, comes in an array ofcol-

ors and flavors. Aurhor Chris Tan

advises using bleached all-purpose

flour to produce a soft, Wonder

bread-like crumb.

4 ' 1 . i cups Hour

I-i tsp. active dry yeast

7 tbsp. sugar

3 tbsp, sweetened condensed

milk

1 I. i tsp. kosher salt

4 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut

into 4 pieces and softened

2 tbsp, canola oil, plus more

for pan

Pink, green, and yellow food

coloring, as needed

Vanilla, chocolate, and

strawberry ice creams, as

needed

lMake the bread: Whisk together

!t 3 cup flour and % :i cup water in a

l-qt. saucepan over medium-high

heat and cook, stirring often, until

thickened into a paste. Transfer to

a small bowl and refrigerate until

chilled. Combine 1 cup flour, Y J tSp.

yeast, and !4 cup water in a mediumbowl, to form a wet dough. Cover

with plastic wrap and let starter sit at

room temperature overnight.

2Whisk together remaining flour

and yeast i n bowl of a stand mixer

fitted with a dough hook; set aside.

In a bowl, whisk together sugar, con-

densed milk, salt, and ~ cup water

heated co 120 Q

, umil sugar dissolves.

Add to bowl of flour, along with

chilled flour paste and room-tem-

perature starter; stir to form a shaggy

dough; turn mixer to medium speed

and knead for 6-8 minutes. With

the mixer running, add butter, I

piece at a time, until incorporated;

then add oil and mix. Divide dough

into 3 equal pieces; add a different

food coloring [0each piece; knead

until evenly tinted. Transfer dough

pieces to 3 separate bowls, cover

with plastic wrap, and let sit until

doubled in size, about 2 hours,

3Transfer dough pieces to a work

surface and roll into 12"'-long ropes;

braid ropes wgether and tuck ends

under, to form a loaf. Transfer to a

greased 8\4" x 5" x 2" loaf pan and

cover loosely with plastic wrap; let

sit for I~ hours. Heat oven to 400°.

Uncover loaf; bake until golden

brown and an instant-read ther-

mometer inserted into loaf reads

185°, 40-45 minutes. Let cool 30

minutes, remove from pan, and cool

completely. To serve, slice bread into

'\4"-thick slices. Place 2 small scoops

of each ice cream on every slice.

PokPok

(Thai-Style lee Cream Sandwich)

Serve. 4

Chef Picher Ong, of Spor Dessert

Bar in New York City, gave us this

recipe for pok pok (pictured on page

52), an ice cream sandwich based

on those he ate as a child in Bang-

kok. See page 104 for hard-to-find

ingredients.

2 14-oz. cans coconut milk

cup desiccated coconut

! 4 cup sugar

\ I . i tsp. kosher salt

1 frozen pandan leaf

1 tbsp, vanilla extract

4 50f[ hot dog buns

\ I . i cup canned corn

~ cup sweet gingko nuts

~ cup nata de coco, dr

~ cup palm seeds, rinse

2 passion fruits

1 large, crisp chocolate

cookie, roughly crus

3 tbsp. toasted cashew

chopped

3 rbsp. sweetened cond

milk

1ring coconut milk, c

sugar, salt, and pandan

a boil in a 2-qt. saucepa

medium heat. Cook, stirrin

sugar dissolves, about 5Remove from heat; let ste

hour. Discard pandan leaf.

to a howl and stir in vanil

Process mixture in an ic

maker according to man

er's instructions, then tran

plastic container and freez

2To serve, place three sma

of ice cream in each bun

with 1 tbsp. each corn,

nuts, nata de coco, and pal

Scoop out juice and see

fruits, and divide among

wiches; top with 14of the

cookie and cashews. Driz

over each sandwich.

8/7/2019 saveur-2011-04-apr


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