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SAN FRANCISCO STITCH CO.

2013 CHRISMYSTERY

TABLE ROUND

By Enis in Michigan

Beginning Notes:

The following instructions were written assuming you are using the 2013 ChrisMystery Project blocks

and designs from San Francisco Stitch Co. which are available for purchase at:

http://www.sanfranciscostitchco.com/ChrisMysteryStitch2013.html. The additional designs used in this

project are optional. They are available for purchase from Embroidery Online and can be found at:

http://www.embroideryonline.com/p-46167-2010-christmas-collection-3.aspx. All seam allowances are

¼” unless stated otherwise. Be sure to set and press all seams as you go. Finished Table Round

including ruffle edging measures 21” wide and approximately 69” around. (You can use any size blocks

to enlarge or reduce this project, but the final measurement of each must be the same, and you will have

to adjust measurements as you go through each step.)

Materials:

*Scraps of 3 different quiet print fabrics

for quilt blocks

*Scraps of 1 quiet white print fabric for quilt

blocks

*Scrap of 1 light beige tone on tone print

for quilt block (fruit cake)

*½ yard of tone on tone white print

fabric for separator blocks and center triangle

*1.5 yards medium tone on tone fabric

for song word blocks, ruffle and backing

*2/3 yard of batting

*40 wt. embroidery thread

*30 wt. Sliver Metallic Thread

*Sewing thread

*Cutaway Stabilizer

*Spray adhesive (helpful but not necessary)

*Removable marking tool (chalk, air or water

soluble marker, etc.)

Sewing Essentials:

*Embroidery / Sewing Machine

*Decorative foot or zigzag foot

*¼” foot

*Ruffler

*Walking Foot

*Scissors

*Pins

*Rotary Cutter

*Quilting Ruler

*Cutting Mat

*Iron

*Ironing Board

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Directions:

1. Embroider, stitch and construct 3 quilt blocks and 1 set of

the song word blocks following the 2013 ChrisMystery

Project instructions. Each quilt block should measure 6”

square when complete. Cut the song word block apart

into 3 blocks to measure 6” wide by 2-7/16” high (or just

over 2-1/2”). Stitch one song word block to the bottom

of each quilt block. The blocks should now measure 6”

wide by approximately 8” high. (Fig. 1)

2. Cut an 8” square piece of the quiet white fabric for center triangle block. Lay 8” square on a

pinable surface (like your ironing board). This piece of fabric needs to fill the triangle space

between the quilt blocks, plus be large enough to hoop and stitch a design of your choice.

3. Lay the 3 prepared quilt blocks from Step 1 above on top of the 8” square of fabric so that the

top corners of each square meet to form a triangle. Make the triangle as perfect as possible

centering the triangle that is formed on top of the 8” square of fabric. Place a straight pin in the

top corners of each block to hold them in place (or use spray adhesive). Trace the triangle that is

formed by the 3 quilt blocks onto the center piece of fabric. (Fig. 2) Remove the quilt blocks.

Mark the center of the triangle (Fig. 3), hoop with stabilizer and embroider the center design.

4. Unhoop the fabric. Leave the stabilizer behind this entire piece. Place the embroidered fabric

face up on your work surface and use a quilt ruler to mark a 1/4” seam allowance on all 3 sides

of the triangle from the original drawn line. (Fig. 4) Cut out the triangle on this newly drawn

line. With right sides together stitch 1 quilt square to each side of the triangle on the ¼” seam

line. You will end up with a wonky looking “Y” shaped piece. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 1

Fig. 2 Fig. 3

Fig. 4 Fig. 5

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5. Cut 3 pieces of tone on tone white print fabric to 15” x

10”. Center and pin one “open section” of the assembled

quilt square/triangle piece onto one 15” x 10” piece of

fabric. The “open section” would be the pie-shaped

space between 2 quilt blocks. Using the marking tool,

trace the sides of the 2 quilt blocks onto the white fabric.

Be sure that this piece of fabric extends past the bottom

of the quilt blocks and extends at least ½” on all other

sides. You need enough to fill the space between the

blocks, plus seam allowances on all sides. (Fig. 6)

6. Remove the assembled quilt square/triangle piece and use

a quilt ruler and marking tool to add ¼” seam allowances

as in Step 4 above. (Fig. 7) Cut fabric along the newly

drawn line to make 1 separator block. Use this piece to

make 2 more separator blocks from the 2 remaining 15” x

10” fabric pieces.

7. Stitch each of the separator block pieces between each set

of quilt blocks. Use the “Y” seam or “inset” seam method

to sew these pieces in place. Go to this Utube video for

detailed instructions on how to do a “Y” seam.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08AlOM5COBU The

assembled piece should look like Fig. 8 with the separator

blocks longer than the quilt blocks.

8. Use the following method, or your favorite method, to turn the assembled piece into a circle.

Measure from the center of the triangle to the center bottom of one of the quilt squares

(approximately 9.25”). Cut a piece of thin ribbon or heavy string a little longer than this

measurement and tie one end to a straight pin with a head on it. Insert the pin into the center of

the triangle. Extend the ribbon straight out to the center bottom of a quilt square. (Fig. 9) At

this point, wind the extra string around your marking tool (air or water soluble pen) and tape it

securely in place near the lower end of the pen. While holding the center pin securely in place,

carefully swing the pen in a circle around the entire piece making a circle. (Fig. 10) This will be

your cutting line. The pen should skim each quilt square at its very center bottom and slightly

cut into the corners of the square still leaving you about ¼” for a seam allowance. Cut out the

circle on the drawn line. (Fig. 11)

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11

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8. Find and mark the center of each separator block

between the quilt squares. Hoop stabilizer and separator

block and embroider each section. (Fig. 12) Unhoop

and cut away the stabilizer close to the designs. (Instead

of embroidering these pieces, you could leave them

blank for quilting later if desired.) Press entire piece

from the back using a press cloth. \

9. To begin creating the ruffle, use a flexible tape measure,

and measure around the perimeter of the completed top.

Multiply this number by 2.5. For example, your pieced top should measure approximately 60”

around: multiply 60” by 2.5 for a total of 150”. This is the length of the fabric for the ruffle.

Now decide how wide you want your finished ruffle to be. Mine is 1.5”. To create a double fold

ruffle that is 1.5” wide, cut fabric strips 3.5” wide. (Your fabric will need to be 3” wide for the

ruffle and ½” for the seam allowances.)

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10. For a 60” circle, you will need 4 strips 40” to 42” long cut 3.5” wide. Taking into account

seaming the strips together and variations in the number of ruffles and the ruffle depth, you may

want to cut one extra strip just to be on the safe side.

11. Sew each strip end to end to form one long strip. Press each seam open. Fold the strip wrong

sides together with long raw edges meeting to form a long strip. Baste the raw edges together

with a scant ¼” seam with thread to match the ruffle.

12. I used a ruffler to create my ruffle. Keep in mind that while most rufflers are similar, it is always

wise to practice on scraps of the same fabric you are using for your ruffle before tackling the real

one for your project. I have a Viking Ruffler and set the nub to 6 (meaning one ruffle every 6

stitches) (Fig. 13) and turned the depth screw all the way in (for a depth of approximately 1/8”)

(Fig. 14). My machine was set for a straight stitch with a length of 2.5. Experiment with your

machine and ruffler setting combinations until you obtain a ruffle you like. You could create

your ruffle using the gathering method. However, this can be time consuming and you risk the

chance of breaking the gathering threads. I’ve done ruffles this way in the past, and I much

prefer the ruffler. Of course, you could always use premade lace for this project instead of

ruffles. If you use flat lace, be sure to create gathers when you pin it in place.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

Fig. 12

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13. Now that your ruffler is set up and your ruffle fabric is prepared, slide the basted edge of the

fabric into the ruffler beneath the blade and above the guide slot. Place the fabric into the ruffler

so that the needle falls between the raw edge of the fabric and the basting stitches. Pull the fabric

slightly out of the back of the ruffler so you have something to hold onto as the ruffler gets

started. (Fig. 15) Use a steady medium speed while you ruffle the fabric. Try to keep the

stitching between the raw edge of the fabric and the basting stitches. Watch the needle area to

help you see where you are stitching on the seam allowance. If you go over the basting stitches,

that’s okay. Those stitches can be pulled out after the topper is fully assembled. If you stitch too

close to the raw edge, the ruffler will not make a ruffle. You will have to pick out the stitches

and do it again. Ask me how I know this!

14. Now that your ruffle is ready (Fig. 16) and your topper is pressed flat, carefully pin the ruffle to

the right side of the topper. The ruffle should be lying on the topper not facing away from it.

Place pins every 1-1/2” or so. The more pins the better. (Fig. 17)

Fig. 15

Fig. 16 Fig. 17

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15. After the ruffle is pinned in place, begin stitching the ruffle to the topper 4-5” in from the

beginning of the tail and follow the basting stitches, removing pins as you go. Stitch all the way

around the topper leaving a 4-5” unstitched at the end as well. Be sure to back stitch at the

beginning and end. Pin the two tails along the rest of the topper so you can see where they meet.

(Fig. 18) Mark both pieces where they meet with the marking tool. (Fig. 19)

Unpin the tails from the topper. Pin the tails

together at the markings. Stitch along the marked

line to join the ends. Cut ¼” from stitching and

finish the raw ends with an overcast or zigzag

stitch. (Fig. 20) Lay and pin the ruffle back in

place on the topper and complete stitching it in

place. Overcast or zigzag all around the entire

piece.

16. Now it’s time to create the quilt sandwich. Using straight pins, pin the ruffle down to the topper

so that it will not get caught in the seams when the quilt sandwich is assembled. (Fig. 21) Lay a

piece of batting and backing fabric (right side up) on your work surface. Place the topper face

down on the right side of the backing fabric. (Fig. 22) Begin pinning the layers together starting

in the center and working out toward the edge smoothing the layers flat as you go. Finally, pin

through the edges all the way around. (Fig. 23)

Fig. 18 Fig. 19

Fig. 20

Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

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17. Using a walking foot, stitch around the topper

following the previous stitching line removing pins as

you go and leaving a 4-5” opening for turning. Trim

the batting and backing slightly less than the edge of

the topper (this will reduce bulk in the seam) except at

the opening. At the opening, cut the batting and

backing slightly larger than the edge of the topper (this

will give you more fabric to work with when finishing

off the opening). (Fig. 24) Remove the basting pins

and then carefully reach inside the project to remove

the pins holding down the ruffle. Press the edge all the

way around to set the seam.

18. Turn the project right side out through the opening. Reach inside the opening and push out the

edges to achieve a nice even circle. Lay the topper face down and from the back side, gently

tuck in the seam allowance at the opening and either hand sew with a blind stitch or use Steam-

A-Seam to close. Using a press cloth, press the topper on both sides to make sure it is nice and

flat.

19. Quilt as desired using your choice of quilting method or decorative stitches. Use your choice of

thread colors on top and bottom as well. I used a walking foot and Sulky Sliver Metallic 30 wt.

thread on the top for the snowflake and other decorative stitches and sewing thread in the bobbin

to match the backing fabric. One final pressing and you are finished with your lovely Table

Topper.

Fig. 24

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BONUS: Turn your Table Topper into a Tree Skirt!

Follow basic directions for Table Topper above. Omit stitching a design in the center. Piece the entire

top together. Omit stitching a design on one separator block. Draw a line on the skirt top from the

center of the triangle down between two of the quilt blocks and through the center of the blank separator

block. Cut on the drawn line. Cut a small circle out of the center triangle block to accommodate the

trunk of your Christmas tree. Baste these newly cut raw edges. After making the ruffle, create a ¼”

double fold hem on one end. Using this finished end, begin attaching the ruffle ¼” away from one cut

edge of the skirt top and stitch around stopping 1 to 2” from the other cut edge. Trim the ruffle 1/4”

beyond the end and finish with a ¼” double fold hem as noted above. Finish stitching ruffle to skirt top.

(The ruffle should begin and end ¼” in from each end on the skirt top to allow for ¼” seam allowance.)

Pin ruffle down on top of skirt top to keep ruffle out of the seam as instructed for Table Topper above.

(Fig. 21) Put together the quilt sandwich. Pin and stitch all the way around, including each cut side of

the slit and up and around the circle cut in the center triangle, leaving a 4 to 5” opening on one side of

the slit for turning. Once the skirt is turned right side out, close the opening and press the skirt. If

desired, add ties to the skirt to hold it in place using your favorite method.

Whether you decide to make the Table Topper or Tree Skirt, feel free to embellish to your heart’s desire.

You can do your own quilting, add hot fix crystals, add embroidery, use designs with texture like thread

velvet or other embroidery techniques, add more or less decorative stitching, stitch the quilt squares in

the ditch, use multiple color fabrics and/or threads, etc. Create your quilt blocks using one design or all

3 from the 2013 ChrisMystery Project quilt blocks. Do whatever makes you happy!

Happy stitching and be sure to share your finished project on the San Francisco Stitch Co. Yahoo Group

for all to see at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/san_francisco_stitch_co/photos/albums