sample home inspection report

4205 Raleigh Avenue South St. Louis Park MN 55416Tel: 952-915-6466 Mobile: 612-205-5600

www.StructureTech1.com [email protected]

SUMMARY REPORTClient: Potential Home Buyers

Inspection Address: 12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555Inspection Date: 4/16/2009 Start: 12:00 pm

Inspected by: Reuben Saltzman

This Summary Report is intended to provide a convenient and cursory preview of the conditions andcomponents that we have identified within our report as needing service. It is obviously not comprehensive, andshould not be used as a substitute for reading the entire report, nor is it a tacit endorsement of the condition ofcomponents or features that may not appear in this summary. The service recommendations that we make inthis summary and throughout the report should be completed well before the close of escrow by licensed,qualified, competent specialists, who may well identify additional defects or recommend some upgrades thatcould affect your evaluation of the property.

This inspection report is available on the Internetfor 90 days from the date of the inspection.

www.StructureTech1.comEnter the following Client Name: StructureTech and the Password: Sample

This report is the exclusive property of Structure Tech Home Inspections and the Client whose name appears within, and its use by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.____________________________________________________________________________________________

Exterior

Grading and DrainageDrainage and GradingAttention Recommended• Grading and drainage is negative adjacent to the residence at the north and south sides of the house andquestionable at the east side. Moisture intrusion will remain a possibility. The soil or the hard surfaces shouldslope away from the residence to a distance of at least six feet, to keep moisture away from the footings. Irecommend re-grading to provide positive slope away from the building. This will be challenging at the back ofthe house where the ground is covered with decks.

DrivewaysAttention Recommended• Settlement noted next to the garage floor. You could add a patch or have the apron mudjacked, or have a newconcrete apron put in as a more long-term solution. The offset between the apron and the garage floor is a triphazard.

Unacceptable• The asphalt driveway has a big damaged section at the bottom, there are a lot of cracks in the driveway, and

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This report has been produced in accordance with our signed contract and is subject to the terms and conditions agreed upon therein.All printed comments and the opinions expressed herein are those of Structure Tech Home Inspections.

Inspection Summary -

Inspection Address: 12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555Inspection Date/Time: 4/16/2009 12:00 pm

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it's time for a sealcoat. Have the driveway professionally repaired.

Wall SurfacesWood Siding ObservationsAttention Recommended• The siding needs service. There were a few damaged pieces - one at the wood burning fireplace chase,another behind the air conditioner, and there were a few other split and cracked pieces of siding. The caulkingwas dried out and cracked in many areas. Re-caulk around the entire house. The wood trim below the frontsecond floor window was very loose and needs to be re-attached. It's also time to re-paint the house.

Brick Siding ObservationsAttention Recommended• There was heavy staining at the brick siding by the front door (pictured below). There is a poor flashing detailabove this wall, and water could be leaking in to the wall here. Have a moisture test done at the wall after thenext heavy rain.

• Loose brick noted at one of the front windows. Secure properly and re-tuckpoint around this brick.

Exterior FeaturesWindows and TrimUnacceptable• The south basement window at the east side of the house had a damaged frame, and the wood inside theframe was badly rotted. Replace this window. The north basement window on the same side of the house alsohad a damaged frame, but the wood didn't have any serious rot yet. Have this window repaired or replaced.Both of these windows were installed improperly - the nailing flanges for the windows were just nailed to thewall. From what I could see, there have not been any attempts made to caulk, flash, or do anything else tokeep water out of the walls. If either one of these windows are not going to be replaced, they should at least bere-installed. The windows were also closer than they should be to grade, which is a potential moisture isssue.Re-grade here or add window wells.

Steps and HandrailsAttention Recommended• The deck stairways were improperly built. A few issues include missing handrails, guardrails too low, screwsused in place of nails at the hangers, and joist hangers used instead of stairway stringer hangers. Re-build thestairways.

Decks and PorchesAttention Recommended• The paint is chipping or peeling everywhere at the deck. Scrape and paint.GuardrailsUnacceptable• The guardrails were loose, badly rotted, lower than 36" high in areas, and the balusters were spaced more than4" apart (to keep a child from getting their head stuck). Re-build the guardrails. They present a fall hazard.

Sidewall VentsAttention Recommended• The combustion air intake is too close to the ground. Combustion air intakes should be located at least a footabove the ground, or above the average snow line. Raise the intake vent to prevent it from getting block withsnow or debris.

• There is a bee's nest at the fireplace air intake. Recommend removal.SillcocksAttention Recommended• There is no backflow prevention device on the front sillcock, which is required to protect the city's drinkingwater. Add a vacuum breaker to the sillcock.For more information, go here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=34

Structural

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BasementConcrete Block WallsAttention Recommended• There was a sizable crack in the foundation wall just left of the laundry sink. This is where the grading was lownext to the house at the exterior, and where the water has obviously come in to the house. The cracks arecaused by uneven settlement here, which is probably being caused by poor water management. After you'vecorrected the moisture intrusion issues, patch the cracks with mortar and monitor for movement.

Signs of MoistureUnacceptable• There was heavy staining at the south wall near the laundry sink, and there were stains on the walls by thewater meter at the front of the house. This is evidence of current or previous excessive water against the wall.Most basement water problems can be corrected with exterior re-landscaping to provide positive drainage awayfrom the foundation as well as adding gutters and downspouts. There was black staining on the drywall at thesouth end, which looks like mold growth. Replace all of the affected drywall and any other building materials.

Basement FloorAttention Recommended• There were bait boxes, mouse traps, mouse droppings, and dead mice throughout the basement and attic.Contact a pest specialist.

Basement InsulationAttention Recommended• Add rigid foam or spray foam insulation at the rim spaces where it is missing. This will help to minimize heatloss in the basement.

Roof/Chim

RoofFlashingsAttention Recommended• There are no kickout flashings installed at the roof/wall intersections. Kickout flashings help prevent potentialwater intrusion into the walls. I recommend installation by a qualified roofing contractor at all intersections.

GuttersAttention Recommended• The composition shingle roof does not have a complete system of gutters and downspouts, which arerecommended to carry water away from the perimeter of the residence. There are problems with waterintrusion in the basement, so you should install a complete gutter system.

DownspoutsUnacceptable• The downspouts lacks proper extensions or splash blocks to carry the water away from the foundation. Irecommend at least 5-6' of extensions be connected.

Plumbing

Floor DrainsCover PlateAttention Recommended• The floor drain in the lower garage appeared to be clogged at the time of the inspection. The floor drain mustbe functional with the cleanout plug in place. Recommend service by a drain cleaning company.

Sump Pump

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Sump CoverUnacceptable• The sump cover is not screwed shut. Secure the cover with screws to prevent small children from accidentallyfalling in.

Water HeatersCombustion Vent PortsUnacceptable• The opening for the combustion air duct sat flat on the floor, which effectively blocked the opening. Cut offsome of the duct so it ends 12" from the floor.

Fuel LinesGas PipesUnacceptable• There is a plug or cap missing on the gas line for a dryer after the shutoff valve. If the gas valve is openedaccidentally, you would have gas entering the home. This could be a very dangerous situation. Have this openline plugged or capped.

Kitchen and Bathroom FixturesBar Sink Faucet Valves & DrainsAttention Recommended• The hot water was shut off at the bar sink.

Electrical

Main PanelWiringAttention Recommended• There is one lug with two wires connected to it on the neutral/ground bus bar. Each neutral wire should beattached to a separate lug to prevent potential overheating or arcing. Have an electrician correct this.

Circuit BreakersUnacceptable• The common trip handle tie is missing at the main breakers. This is a potential shock hazard (if one handletrips, the rest need to trip). Have an electrician correct this.

• The circuit breaker for the air conditioner is a 30 amp breaker, however, the air conditioner requires a 40 ampbreaker. Install a proper breaker.

ExteriorExterior LightsUnacceptable• The front yard light and outlets were not energized - I'm guessing the breakers for these outlets were the onesthat were turned off at the panel. The wiring that runs underground for this setup is not protected in conduit, soit's required to be at least 36" below grade to prevent accidental damage. It's only about a foot below grade,and the wire was apparently damaged (go figure!). Disconnect this wire from the panel so power doesn'taccidentally get turned on. If you're going to have the front light re-wired, replace the outlets and the outletbox, as they have been exposed to the elements and they're starting to rust.

Exterior OutletsAttention Recommended• Cover plates were missing to most of the exterior outlets. All exterior outlets require weatherproof cover plates,recommend adding. Note: today's standards require weatherproof covers that allow a cord to be plugged inwhile the cover is in the closed position.

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Garage OutletsUnacceptable• An extension cord is being used to power the east garage door opener. This opener needs to be plugged in toit's own outlet. Have another outlet installed for the opener.

InteriorLights & WiringUnacceptable• There were improper closet lights in the lower level living room closet. Closet lights are supposed to have aglobe to prevent a fire hazard. Install proper lights. One of these lights was also loose and hanging by thewires, which is a shock hazard (exposed contacts).

GFCI DevicesBathroom(s)Attention Recommended• I was unable to locate a GFCI device for the whirlpool tub, which is required. Ask the seller about this; is therea GFCI device which protects the whirlpool? Where is it? Is it accessible (you need to be able to reset it if ittrips)? Is it functional, or in other words, does it interrupt the circuit when tested? If there is no GFCI device,have one installed before you use the whirlpool.

ExteriorUnacceptable• Most of the exterior GFCI outlets do not trip, or 'interrupt' current when tested. These outlet are defective, andshould be replaced. This is a potential shock hazard.

KitchenAttention Recommended• The kitchen countertop outlets within 6' of the kitchen sink are GFCI protected. Today's standards require allkitchen outlets to be GFCI protected. Add GFCI protection for the rest of the kitchen outlets for added safety,especially the outlet at the center island, which was very close to the kitchen sink.

CO DetectorsLocationsUnacceptable• There are no carbon monoxide alarms present. Minnesota requires at least one approved carbon monoxidealarm within ten feet of every sleeping room. Install CO alarms as required.For more information, visit here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=40.

Heat

Heat System 1Central Heating OperationUnacceptable• The condensate drain for the exhaust on the furnace is leaking. Have the leak repaired by a furnace tech.Return-Air Compartment and FilterUnacceptable• The electronic air cleaner doesn't appear to be working and the pre-filters were missing. Have the air cleanerrepaired and pre-filters installed, or install a passive filter.

Interior

Stairs and Handrails

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Stairs & HandrailsAttention Recommended• The lowest set of steps had uneven riser heights - the top step was much higher than the rest, and this is a triphazard. Re-build this stairway to code.

Counters Cabinets KitchenCabinetsAttention Recommended• The range is not equipped with an anti-tip device that prevents the range from tipping, or its contents fromspilling, should a child attempt to climb on it or its open door. This is a recommended safety feature that shouldbe installed, and particularly if small children visit or occupy the residence.For more information, visit here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=50

Attic

AtticAccessAttention Recommended• The door to the attic in the master bedroom was a standard interior type door with little insulating value. If youwant to have a door here, install an exterior type door.

Attic Roof Construction Framing and SheathingAttention Recommended• There was heavy moisture (and mold?) on the plywood at the east and west ends of the upper attic space. Thisis caused by condensation, which is caused by moisture making it's way up in to the attic space. The plywoodis starting to delaminate and should have been replaced when the roof is replaced, but now that it's still there, Idon't think it's worth tearing the roof off to replace the plywood. See notes in "Attic Insulation" section for waysto prevent further damage to the roof decking.

Attic InsulationUnacceptable• There are bypasses to the attic space that need to be sealed to prevent conditioned household air from enteringin to the attic space. This is what is causing all the black staining and delamination to your plywood. The atticfloor was insulated, so I could not view all of the bypasses, but I dug through the insulation and found manysmall bypasses and one huge one, and many more likely exist. Attic bypasses can reduce the effectiveness ofinsulation by as much as 70%, and it is important for these bypasses to be sealed, especially if more insulationis going to be added to the attic space. This will help to prevent ice dams, minimize heat loss, and preventmoisture from getting in to the attic space. The Minnesota Department of Commerce has an excellent guide tolocating and correcting attic bypasses, which I recommend you download athttp://www.state.mn.us/mn/externalDocs/Commerce/Attic_Bypasses_110602012529_AtticBypass.pdfTo get everything properly sealed, you may need to hire someone with an infrared camera to figure out whereelse air is leaking.

Attic VentilationAttention Recommended• The cardboard baffles for the soffit vents were collapsed in many areas at the upper attic. Have the ventilationcorrected - some of the vents are probably blocked, and this is contributing to the black staining in the upperattic.

Garage

Garage

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Automatic OpenerUnacceptable• The west garage door opener just made a buzzing noise when I pressed the button. This opener is defective,and should be replaced.

Entry Door Into the HouseUnacceptable• The house entry door from the garage is not fire-rated. Replace this door with a fire-rated door in order tomaintain the necessary fire separation between the house and the garage. There was also a large gap at thefloor which will be a source of air leakage until you replace the door.

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CONFIDENTIAL INSPECTION REPORTPREPARED FOR:

Potential Home Buyers_______________________________________________________________

INSPECTION ADDRESS12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555

INSPECTION DATE4/16/2009 12:00 pm

This report is the exclusive property of Structure Tech Home Inspections and the Client whose name appears within, and its use by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.

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Inspection Narratives - Page 1



INSPECTION AGREEMENT

Client: Potential Home Buyers

Property Address 12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555

Date: 4/16/2009

The inspection report can be viewed on the Internetwww.StructureTech1.com

Enter the following Client Name: StructureTech and the Password: Sample

PLEASE READ THIS AGREEMENT CAREFULLYTHIS AGREEMENT by and between Saltzman Enterprises, Inc., d/b/a Structure Tech, a Minnesota

corporation with its principal place of business located at, 4205 Raleigh Avenue South, St. Louis Park,Minnesota 55416 (hereinafter called the "Company") and the clients, as identified above (hereinafter, whetherjoint or several, called the "Client").

Unless specifically contradicted by the language herein which shall control in the event of the conflict,this inspection of the subject property shall be performed by the Company for the Client in accordance with theStandards of Practice of the American Society of Home Inspectors, Inc. ("ASHI"), a copy of which is availableat www.ashi.com.I. PURPOSE AND SCOPE OF INSPECTION. The company agrees to perform a visual inspection ofthe subject house and to provide Client with a written report identifying the major deficiencies. Items notspecifically included in the written report and identified in this agreement are beyond the scope of theinspection and are not reviewed. No verbal statements by the inspector shall expand the scope of thisagreement or the inspection report, nor shall such statements be relied upon by the client when solicited fromthe inspector at any time.The inspection includes such items as:Sidewalks/Driveways, Foundation, Drainage, Plumbing, Electrical, Materials of Construction, Interior, CentralAir, Insulation, Heating, Crawlspace/basement, Fireplace(s), Attic, Exterior, Roof.The inspection does not include items such as:Underground utilities, Playground equipment, Pools, Elevators, Wells/springs, Tennis courts, Solar systems,Security systems, Septic Tanks, Drainfields, Personal property, Cosmetic items, Water softeners, Centralvacuum, Cesspools, Sprinkler systems, Appliances, Recreational appliances.

* Thermostats or timers are not checked for accuracy or calibration.* Air conditioners cannot be safely checked when the outside temperature has been below 60 degrees within

24 hours.II. LIMITATIONS.

1. As an example only, the inspection report will not include cosmetic items such as minor scratches,scrapes, dents, cracks, stains, soiled, faded, torn or dirty floor, wall or window coverings. The inspector is notrequired to move personal property, debris, furniture, equipment, carpeting or like materials which may impedeaccess or limit visibility. Recent and existing weather conditions may also limit or restrict the results of theinspection. Major deficiencies and defects which are latent or concealed are excluded from the inspection.The inspection is not intended to be technically exhaustive. Equipment and systems will not be dismantled.The Company does not guarantee that detected evidence of past or present water infiltration will not re-occur inthe same or different locations at some future time.

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2. The inspection is NOT a compliance inspection for past or present governmental codes or regulations ofany kind.

3. The inspection and report do not address and are not intended to address the possible presence of ordanger from asbestos, radon gas, lead paint, urea formaldehyde, toxic or flammable chemicals, mold, mildew,water or airborne related illness or disease, and all other similar or potentially harmful substances. The client isurged to contact a reputable specialist if information identification or testing for the above is desired. Inaddition, the presence or absence of rodents, termites, or other insects/vermin is not covered by this inspection.

4. This inspection report is not intended to be used as a guarantee or warranty, expressed or implied,regarding the adequacy, performance or condition of any inspected structure, item or system. The inspectionand report are not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor to make any representation as to theadvisability or inadvisability of purchase or the suitability for use.

5. The inspection/report is not a certification of any kind. Company shall not be construed as insuringagainst any defects or deficiencies not contained in the inspection report and subsequently discovered by theClient. This inspection does not imply that every defect was found.III. NOTICE OF CLAIM. In the event of a discrepancy, problem, dispute or claim arising form theperformance of an inspection by the Company and/or its inspectors, the Client agrees to promptly notify theCompany in writing by U.S. Certified Mail. Any claim against Company must be received by Company, inwriting, within one year from the Agreement Date, or such claim is waived, regardless of the date when Clientbecomes aware of the discrepancy, problem or claim. Client guarantees the Company the right to examine thesubject matter of any claim, prior to the Client's performance of any remedial action (unless of an emergencynature of for the safety of person or property). This is a condition precedent to Client's claim.IV. LIMITED LIABILITY. The parties agree that the maximum liability of the Company, and it'semployees and agents, for any loss or damage, in the event the Company, or it's employees or agents, arenegligent, in breach of contract, or otherwise at fault in the performance of its obligations, shall be limited to asum equal to the fee for the inspection service. If a lawsuit, legal action or arbitration is filed by the Clientagainst the Company, its inspectors, or employees and the Company and/or its inspectors successfully defendsthe claim of the Client, the Client agrees to pay the Company and/or its inspectors for their time in defendingsuch action, at their normal hourly rate, attorney's fees and court costs, and any other costs incurred indefending against such claim.V. PAYMENT. Payment is due upon completion of the on-site inspection. There will be a $20.00 dollarcharge if any form of payment is subsequently dishonored. All legal and time expenses incurred in collectingdue payments, returned checks, or unaccepted credit and payments will be paid by the purchaser of theservice. Any fee not paid within 30 days of the inspection will have a service charge of 1.5% monthly or 18%per annum added to the inspection fee. Credit is on an approval basis.VI. NON-ASSIGNMENT AND INDEMNITY. The inspection and report are performed andprepared for the sole, confidential and exclusive use and possession of the undersigned client only; they do notrun with the land. The client agrees to indemnify and hold harmless the Company and the Inspector for allcosts, expenses and legal fees incurred and arising out of any legal proceedings brought by any third party whoclaims he/she relied on representations made in this inspection report and was damaged thereby.VII. ENTIRE AGREEMENT. This agreement represents the entire agreement between the parties. Nochange or modification shall be enforceable against any party unless such change or modification is in writingand signed by the parties. This agreement shall be binding upon and enforceable by the parties, and theirheirs, executors, administrators, successors and assigns.VIII. CLIENT'S PRESENCE. If the Client is not present at the time of inspection or for any reason isunable to sign this agreement at the time of inspection, this agreement will become part of the inspectionreport, and acceptance of the inspection report shall constitute acceptance of the terms herein.IX. SEVERABILITY PROVISION. If any portion of this agreement is ruled to be illegal or unenforceable,that provision shall be null and void but the remainder of the agreement shall remain in full force and effect.CLIENT ACKNOWLEDGES THAT HE OR SHE HAS READ THIS AGREEMENT IN FULL PRIOR TOSIGNING IT AND UNDERSTANDS ALL TERMS AND CONDITIONS. Client agrees to conduct their ownPre-Closing walk through, sign and return a copy to Structure Tech. A walk through check list is included in theinspection report.

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GENERAL INFORMATIONInspection Address: 12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555Inspection Date: 4/16/2009 Time: 12:00 pm

Weather: Clear and Dry - Temperature at time of inspection: 65 Degrees

Inspected by: Reuben Saltzman

Client Information: Potential Home Buyers

Structure Type: Wood FrameFurnished: NoStructure Occupied: NoNumber of Stories: Two

Structure Orientation: North

Estimated Year Built: 1991Unofficial Sq.Ft.: 3400

People on Site At Time of Inspection: Buyer(s)

General Property Conditions

PLEASE NOTE:

The service recommendations that we make in this report should be completed well before the close ofescrow by licensed, qualified, competent specialists, who may well identify additional defects orrecommend some upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property.

Report File: South Saint Paul 7 Oak Ridge Drive orig

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SCOPE OF WORKYou have contracted with Structure Tech Home Inspections to perform a generalist inspection in accordancewith the standards of practice established by the American Society of Home Inspectiors (ASHI), a copy of whichis available upon request, and which can be read or downloaded by visiting www.ashi.com Generalistinspections are essentially visual, and distinct from those of specialists, inasmuch as they do not include theuse of specialized instruments, the dismantling of equipment, or the sampling of air and inert materials.Consequently, a generalist inspection and the subsequent report will not be as comprehensive, nor astechnically exhaustive, as that generated by specialists, and it is not intended to be. The purpose of a generalistinspection is to identify defects or adverse conditions that would warrant a specialist evaluation. Therefore, youshould be aware of the limitations of this type of inspection, which are indicated in the standards. However, as acourtesy, we are including some commonplace information about several of the environmental contaminantsthat could be of concern to you and your family.

There are many environmental contaminants that we do not have the expertise or the authority to test for, suchas asbestos, radon, methane, formaldehyde, termites and other wood-destroying organisms, pests and rodents,molds, microbes, bacterial organisms, and electromagnetic radiation, to name some of the better known ones.Nevertheless, we will attempt to alert you to any suspicious substances that would warrant evaluation by aspecialist,. However, you should also be aware that our use of terminology like "mold," and "asbestos," isintentionally generic, and should not be construed as a statement of fact. Regardless, health and safety, andenvironmental hygiene is a deeply personal responsibility, and you should make sure that you are familiar withany contaminant that could affect your home environment.

Mold is one known contaminant. It is a microorganism that has been in existence throughout human history,and actually contributes to the life process. It takes many different forms. Some characterized as allergens arerelatively benign but can provoke allergic reactions among sensitive people, and others characterized aspathogens can have adverse health effects on large segments of the population, such as the very young, theelderly, and people with suppressed immune systems. However, there are less common molds that are calledtoxigens that do represent a health threat. All molds flourish in the presence of moisture, and we make aconcerted effort to look for any evidence of it wherever there could be a water source, including that fromcondensation. Interestingly, the molds that commonly appear on ceramic tiles in bathrooms do not usuallyconstitute a health threat, but they should be removed. However, some visibly similar molds that form oncellulose materials, such as on drywall, plaster, and wood, are potentially toxigenic. If mold is to be foundanywhere within a home, it will likely be in the area of tubs, showers, toilets, sinks, water heaters, evaporatorcoils, inside attics with unvented bathroom exhaust fans, and return-air compartments that draw outside air, allof which are areas that we look at very closely. Nevertheless, mold can appear as though spontaneously at anytime, so you should be prepared to monitor your home, and particularly the areas that we have alluded to.Naturally, it is equally important to maintain clean air-supply ducts and to change filters as soon as theybecome soiled, because contaminated ducts are a common breeding ground for dust mites, rust, and othercontaminants. Regardless, the specific identification of molds can only be determined by specialists andlaboratory analysis, and is absolutely beyond the scope of our inspection. Nonetheless, as a prudent investmentin environmental hygiene, we categorically recommend that you have your home tested for the presence of anysuch contaminants, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma.

Asbestos is another notorious contaminant that could be present in any home built before 1978. It is a naturallyoccurring mineral fiber that was first used by Greek and Romans in the first century, and it has been widelyused throughout the modern world in a variety of thermal insulators, including those in the form of paper wraps,bats, blocks, and blankets. However, it can also be found in a wide variety of other products too numerous tomention, including duct insulation and acoustical materials, plasters, siding, floor tiles, heat vents, and roofingproducts. Although perhaps recognized as being present in some documented forms, asbestos can only bespecifically identified by laboratory analysis. The most common asbestos fiber that exists in residential productsis chrysotile, which belongs to the serpentine or white-asbestos group, and was used in the clutches and brakeshoes of automobiles for many years. However, a single asbestos fiber is said to be able to cause cancer, andis therefore a potential health threat and a litigious issue. Significantly, asbestos fibers are only dangerous whenthey are released into the air and inhaled, and for this reason authorities such as the Environmental ProtectionAgency (EPA) and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) distinguish between asbestos that is ingood condition, or non-friable, and that which is in poor condition, or friable, which means that its fibers could

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be easily crumbled and become airborne. However, we are not specialists and, regardless of the condition ofany real or suspect asbestos-containing material (ACM), we would not endorse it and recommend having itevaluated by a specialist.

Radon is a gas that results from the natural decay of radioactive materials within the soil, and is purported to bethe second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. The gas is able to enter homes through the voidsaround pipes in concrete floors or through the floorboards of poorly ventilated crawlspaces, and particularlywhen the ground is wet and the gas cannot easily escape through the soil and disperse into the atmosphere.However, it cannot be detected by the senses, and its existence can only be determined by sophisticatedinstruments and laboratory analysis, which is completely beyond the scope of our service. However, you canlearn more about radon and other environmental contaminants and their affects on health, by contacting theEPA or a similar state agency, and it would be prudent for you to enquire about any high radon readings thatmight be prevalent in the region surrounding your home.

Lead poses an equally serious health threat. In the 1920's, it was commonly found in many plumbing systems.In fact, the word "plumbing" is derived from the Latin word "plumbum," which means lead. When in use as acomponent of a waste system, it does not constitute a viable health threat, but as a component of potable waterpipes it would certainly be a health-hazard. Although rarely found in use, lead could be present in any homebuild as recently as the nineteen forties. For instance, lead was an active ingredient in many household paints,which can be released in the process of sanding, and even be ingested by small children and animals chewingon painted surfaces. Fortunately, the lead in painted surfaces can be detected by industrial hygienists usingsophisticated instruments, but testing for it is not cheap. There are other environmental contaminants, some ofwhich we have already mentioned, and others that may be relatively benign. However, we are notenvironmental hygienists, and as we stated earlier we disclaim any responsibility for testing or establishing thepresence of any environmental contaminant, and recommend that you schedule whatever specialist inspectionsmight be deemed to be prudent before the close of escrow.

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ExteriorMy evaluation of the exterior of a property conforms to ASHI standards, and includes the identification of wallcladding, and an evaluation of common components, such as driveways, walkways, fences, gates, handrails,guardrails, yard walls, patio covers, decks, fascia and trim, balconies, doors, windows, lights, and outlets. I donot evaluate any detached structures, such as storage sheds and stables, and I do not water test or evaluatesubterranean drainage systems or any mechanical or remotely controlled components, such as driveway gates.Also, I do not evaluate any landscape components, such as trees, shrubs, fountains, ponds, statuary, pottery,fire pits, patio fans, heat lamps, and ornamental or decorative lighting. Similarly, I do not comment on surfacecoatings or cosmetic deficiencies and the wear and tear associated with usage or the passage of time thatwould be readily apparent to the average person.

Grading and DrainageGeneral Comments and DescriptionInformational

All structures are dependent on the soil beneath them for support, but soils are not uniform. There are soils thatcan expand to twice their volume with the influx of water and move structures with relative ease, raising andlowering them and fracturing slabs and other hard surfaces. In fact, expansive soils have accounted for morestructural damage than most natural disasters. Water can be equally destructive, and can foster conditions thatare deleterious to health. For this reason, the ideal property will have soils that slope away from the residenceand the interior floors will be several inches higher than the exterior grade. Also, the residence will have roofgutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains with catch basins that carry water away to hardsurfaces.

Moisture Dampness or MoldInformational

Moisture is a perennial problem,with which you should be aware. It involves a host of interrelated factors, andcan be unpredictable, intermittent, or constant. When moisture intrusion is not self evident, it can be inferred bymusty odors, peeling paint or plaster, efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, rust on metal components, andwood rot. Condensation and humidity can produce similar conditions if the temperature in an area is notmaintained above the dew point. If the interior floors are at the same elevation or lower than the exterior gradewe could not rule out the potential for moisture intrusion and would not endorse any such areas. Nevertheless,if such conditions do exist, or if you or any member of your family are sensitive to allergens, you shouldschedule a specialist inspection.

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Drainage and GradingAttention Recommended

Grading and drainage is negative adjacent to the residence at the north and south sides of the house andquestionable at the east side. Moisture intrusion will remain a possibility. The soil or the hard surfaces shouldslope away from the residence to a distance of at least six feet, to keep moisture away from the footings. Irecommend re-grading to provide positive slope away from the building. This will be challenging at the back ofthe house where the ground is covered with decks.

Trees Plants ShrubsInformational

There are trees on this property that I do not have the expertise to evaluate. You may wish to have themexamined by an arborist.

WalkwaysFunctional

The walkways are in acceptable condition.DrivewaysAttention Recommended

Settlement noted next to the garage floor. You could add a patch or have the apron mudjacked, or have a newconcrete apron put in as a more long-term solution. The offset between the apron and the garage floor is a triphazard.

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UnacceptableThe asphalt driveway has a big damaged section at the bottom, there are a lot of cracks in the driveway, andit's time for a sealcoat. Have the driveway professionally repaired.

Wall SurfacesType of MaterialInformational

The majority of the exterior house walls are clad with wood lap siding.The lower front portions of the exterior house walls have a brick veneer covering.

Wood Siding ObservationsAttention Recommended

The siding needs service. There were a few damaged pieces - one at the wood burning fireplace chase,another behind the air conditioner, and there were a few other split and cracked pieces of siding. The caulkingwas dried out and cracked in many areas. Re-caulk around the entire house. The wood trim below the frontsecond floor window was very loose and needs to be re-attached. It's also time to re-paint the house.

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loosewas verythis trim

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Brick Siding ObservationsAttention Recommended

There was heavy staining at the brick siding by the front door (pictured below). There is a poor flashing detailabove this wall, and water could be leaking in to the wall here. Have a moisture test done at the wall after thenext heavy rain.

Loose brick noted at one of the front windows. Secure properly and re-tuckpoint around this brick.

Exterior FeaturesGeneral Comments and DescriptionInformational

It is important to maintain a property, including painting or sealing walkways, decks, and other hard surfaces,and it is particularly important to keep the house walls sealed, which provide the only barrier againstdeterioration. Unsealed cracks around windows, doors, and thresholds can permit moisture intrusion, which isthe principle cause of the deterioration of any surface. Unfortunately, the evidence of such intrusion may onlybe obvious when it is raining. I have discovered leaking windows and doors while it was raining that may nothave been apparent otherwise, and too often damage progresses to a point at which a window or door must bereplaced. Such occurrences are not uncommon, and demonstrate why the cost of renovating a neglected home

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will always exceed that of having maintained it.FoundationsFunctional

The visible portions of the foundation appeared acceptable.Soffit and FaciaFunctional

The soffit and fascia were in acceptable condition.Windows and TrimUnacceptable

The south basement window at the east side of the house had a damaged frame, and the wood inside theframe was badly rotted. Replace this window. The north basement window on the same side of the house alsohad a damaged frame, but the wood didn't have any serious rot yet. Have this window repaired or replaced.Both of these windows were installed improperly - the nailing flanges for the windows were just nailed to thewall. From what I could see, there have not been any attempts made to caulk, flash, or do anything else tokeep water out of the walls. If either one of these windows are not going to be replaced, they should at least bere-installed. The windows were also closer than they should be to grade, which is a potential moisture isssue.Re-grade here or add window wells.

gradetoclosetoo

installationimproper

installationimproper

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windowat southdamage

windowat northdamage

Steps and HandrailsAttention Recommended

The deck stairways were improperly built. A few issues include missing handrails, guardrails too low, screwsused in place of nails at the hangers, and joist hangers used instead of stairway stringer hangers. Re-build thestairways.

Hanger lacks proper attachment to deckScrews used in place of nailsImproper hangers

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DoorsFunctional

Exterior doors were in acceptable condition.Informational

There is no storm door installed on the front door. I recommend storm doors for weather protection andventilation.

Sliding Glass DoorsFunctional

The exterior sliding glass doors are in acceptable condition.Decks and PorchesAttention Recommended

The paint is chipping or peeling everywhere at the deck. Scrape and paint.GuardrailsUnacceptable

The guardrails were loose, badly rotted, lower than 36" high in areas, and the balusters were spaced more than4" apart (to keep a child from getting their head stuck). Re-build the guardrails. They present a fall hazard.

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Sidewall VentsAttention Recommended

The combustion air intake is too close to the ground. Combustion air intakes should be located at least a footabove the ground, or above the average snow line. Raise the intake vent to prevent it from getting block withsnow or debris.

There is a bee's nest at the fireplace air intake. Recommend removal.

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SillcocksInformational

The sillcocks are functional.The front sillcock is not frost free and should be turned off on the inside in the fall. After turning off the insideshutoff, open up the sillcocks to drain. If the shutoff valve on the inside has a bleeder or drain, you canunscrew this cap to drain as well.

Attention RecommendedThere is no backflow prevention device on the front sillcock, which is required to protect the city's drinkingwater. Add a vacuum breaker to the sillcock.For more information, go here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=34

StructuralStructures are not uniform, and meet the standards of the year in which they were built. I describe and identifythe various foundation types, and the floor, wall, ceiling, and roof structures in accordance with ASHI standards.If the foundation is a slab type, I examine the stem walls that extend beyond the footings. If it is a raisedfoundation, I either enter the crawlspace to inspect its structural components, or indicate in what manner it wasevaluated. Similarly, I identify the structure of walls and the roof framing.

Structural ElementsWall StructureInformational

The walls are conventionally framed with wooden studs.Floor StructureInformational

The floor structure consists of conventional wood framing members sheathed with plywood, particle board ordiagonal boards.

Ceiling and Roof StructureInformational

The ceiling and roof structure consists of a factory-built truss system, comprised of components called chords,webs, and struts that are connected by wood or metal gussets nailed or glued in place. Each component of thetruss is desinged for a specific purpose, and cannot be removed or modified without compromising the integrityof the entire strut. The lowest component, which is called the chord and to which the ceiling is attached, canmove by thermal expansion and contraction and cause cracking sounds, which are more pronounced in themornings and evenings along with temperature changes. Such movement has no structural significance, butcan result in small cracks or divots in the drywall or plaster.

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BasementGeneral CommentsInformational

This residence has a raised foundation. Such foundations permit access, and provide a convenient area for thedistribution of water pipes, drain pipes, vent pipes, electrical conduits, and ducts. However, although raisedfoundations are far from uniform, most include concrete footings and walls that extend above the ground withanchor bolts that hold the house onto the foundation. My inspection of these foundations conforms to industrystandards, which is that of a generalist and not a specialist, and I do not use any specialized instruments toestablish that the structure is level. I always enter all accessible areas, but may not comment on minordeficiencies, such as on commonplace settling cracks in the stem walls and slight deviations from plumb andlevel in the intermediate floor framing, which would have little structural significance. Interestingly, there is noabsolute standard for evaluating cracks, but those that are less than ¼" and which do not exhibit any vertical orhorizontal displacement are generally not regarded as being structurally relevant. Nevertheless, all othersshould be evaluated by a specialist.

Concrete Block WallsAttention Recommended

There was a sizable crack in the foundation wall just left of the laundry sink. This is where the grading was lownext to the house at the exterior, and where the water has obviously come in to the house. The cracks arecaused by uneven settlement here, which is probably being caused by poor water management. After you'vecorrected the moisture intrusion issues, patch the cracks with mortar and monitor for movement.

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LimitationsInformational

I cannot view all spaces because of finished interior walls. Comments are only made on what is visible at thetime of the inspection.

CrawlspaceInformational

There is no visible crawl space.Signs of MoistureUnacceptable

There was heavy staining at the south wall near the laundry sink, and there were stains on the walls by thewater meter at the front of the house. This is evidence of current or previous excessive water against the wall.Most basement water problems can be corrected with exterior re-landscaping to provide positive drainage awayfrom the foundation as well as adding gutters and downspouts. There was black staining on the drywall at thesouth end, which looks like mold growth. Replace all of the affected drywall and any other building materials.

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Basement FloorFunctional

The basement floor appears functional.Attention Recommended

There were bait boxes, mouse traps, mouse droppings, and dead mice throughout the basement and attic.Contact a pest specialist.

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Floor Framing and SubfloorFunctional

The visible portions of the floor framing and subfloor appear to be in acceptable condition.Basement InsulationAttention Recommended

Add rigid foam or spray foam insulation at the rim spaces where it is missing. This will help to minimize heatloss in the basement.

Roof/ChimMy evaluation of roof coverings, the components and drainage systems, conforms to ASHI standards. I accessevery roof in order to examine it unless I feel it is unsafe. There are many different roof types, and every roofwill wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of itsapplication, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance.Regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which isconcealed and cannot be examined without removing the roofing material, and this is equally true of almost allroofs. In fact, the material on most pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof, only water-resistant.

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There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable.They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty totwenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years,and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may belayered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is neverrecommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years, can impede emergencyservice by fire department personal, and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced withmastic, which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage. However, among thepitched roofs, gravel ones are the least dependable, because the low pitch and the gravel prevent them fromdraining as readily as other roofs. For this reason, they must be conscientiously maintained. In this respect, theleast dependable of all roofs are flat or built-up ones. Some flat roofs are adequately sloped toward drains butmany are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation. The most common cause ofleakage results when roofs are not serviced, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels.

What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible foranyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of myservice. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leakwithout some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, onlyinstallers can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. I cannot, and do not give any suchguarantees. I will examine and report on every roof, but I will not predict its remaining life-expectancy, norguarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the mostintimate knowledge of the roof and of its history.

RoofAccess or LimitationsInformational

I evaluated the roof and its components by walking its surface.Roofing Slope and StyleInformational

There are a wide variety of composition shingle roofs, which are comprised of asphalt or fiberglass materialsimpregnated with mineral granules that are designed to deflect the deteriorating ultra-violet rays of the sun. Themost common of these roofs are warranted by manufacturers to last from twenty to twenty-five years, and aretypically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. The actual life of the roof will vary,depending on a number of interrelated factors besides the quality of the material and the method of installation.Poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure, but a southern exposure can cause a roof todeteriorate prematurely, as will the practice of layering over another roof. However, the first indication ofsignificant wear occurs when the granules begin to separate and leave pockmarks or dark spots. This isreferred to as primary decomposition, which means that the roof is in decline, and therefore susceptible toleakage. This typically begins with the hip and ridge shingles and to the field shingles on the south facing side.This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced, but that it should be serviced or monitored. Regularmaintenance will certainly extend the life of any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only becomeevident after they have caused other damage. This is important, because in accordance with industry standards, my inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks. The sellers or the occupants will generallyhave the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history and then schedule a regularmaintenance service.The roof has a medium slope. A medium slope roof would consist of a roof pitch between a 2" and 6" pitch.

Roofing MaterialInformational

Asphalt self sealing architectural shingles. These shingles generally last 25 to 30 years. Darker coloredshingles generally have a lesser life expectancy than the lighter colored shingles because of the heat absorbingqualities of the color. The advantages of this type of shingle are beauty, adaptability, low maintenance andweather resistance.

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Sloped RoofInformational

The composition shingle roof appears to be newer. This is just an estimate and you should request theinstallation permit from the sellers, which will reveal its exact age and any warranty or guarantee that might beapplicable.

FlashingsInformational

Flashing concealed by siding material brought down tight to the roof. The flashing should have been kept 1-2"above the roof material.

Attention RecommendedThere are no kickout flashings installed at the roof/wall intersections. Kickout flashings help prevent potentialwater intrusion into the walls. I recommend installation by a qualified roofing contractor at all intersections.

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Gas VentFunctional

The gas vent appears functional and installed correctly.GuttersAttention Recommended

The composition shingle roof does not have a complete system of gutters and downspouts, which arerecommended to carry water away from the perimeter of the residence. There are problems with waterintrusion in the basement, so you should install a complete gutter system.

DownspoutsUnacceptable

The downspouts lacks proper extensions or splash blocks to carry the water away from the foundation. Irecommend at least 5-6' of extensions be connected.

Plumbing VentsFunctional

The plumbing vents appear functional.Roof VentsFunctional

The roof venting appears functional.

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ChimneyNoneInformational

There is no chimney present at the home, only a wood chase for the metal fireplace flue.

PlumbingI evaluate plumbing systems and their components in accordance with ASHI standards, which include testingfor pressure and functional flow. Plumbing systems have common components but they are not uniform. Inaddition to fixtures, components typically consist of gas pipes, potable water pipes, drain and vent pipes,shut-off valves (which I do not test), pressure regulators, pressure relief valves, and water-heating devices.

The water pressure within pipes is commonly confused with water volume, but whereas high water volume isgood high water pressure is not. In fact, whenever the street pressure exceeds eighty pounds per square inch aregulator is recommended, which typically comes factory preset between forty-five and sixty-five pounds persquare inch. Regardless of the pressure, leaks will occur in any system, and particularly in one with oldergalvanized pipes, and commonly when the regulator fails and high pressure begins to stress the washers anddiaphragms within the various components.

Waste pipes are equally varied and are comprised of older ones, such as those made of clay, or others that aremade of a material like cardboard coated with tar, and modern plastic ones referred to as ABS or PVC.Typically, the condition of these pipes is directly related to their age. Inasmuch as most drainpipes areconcealed, I can only infer their condition by observing the draw at drains. Nonetheless, blockages will occur atsome point in the life of any system and the only way to verify the inside condition of the drain lines is to havethem video scanned.

Waste and Drainage SystemGeneral Comments and DescriptionInformational

I attempt to evaluate drain pipes by flushing every drain that has an active fixture while observing its draw andwatching for blockages or slow drains, but this is not a conclusive test and only a video-scan of the main linewould confirm its actual condition. You can be sure that blockages will occur, usually relative in severity to theage of the system, and will range from minor ones in the branch lines, or at the traps beneath sinks, tubs, andshowers, to major blockages in the main line. The minor ones are easily cleared, either by chemical means orby removing and cleaning the traps. However, if tree roots grow into the main drain that connects the house tothe public sewer, repairs could become expensive and might include replacing the entire main line. For thesereasons, I recommend that you ask the sellers if they have ever experienced any drainage problems, or youmay wish to have the main waste line video-scanned before the close of escrow. Failing this, you should obtainan insurance policy that covers blockages and damage to the main line. Most policies only cover plumbingrepairs within the house, or the cost of rooter service, most of which are relatively inexpensive.

Type of MaterialInformational

The residence is served by ABS drain waste and vent pipes.Drain Pipes Waste Pipes and Vent PipesInformational

The drain lines in the basement garage may be subject to freezing.

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Water Distribution PipingType of MaterialInformational

The residence is served by copper tubing and polybutyene tubing.

Water Main LocationInformational

The main water shut-off valve is located in the basement.Copper TubingInformational

The flexible copper connectors at the water softener are not approved for use in Minnesota because theyrestrict the water flow. The reduction in flow is negligible, and I consider this to be of little consequence.

Polybutylene Water PipesInformational

The system includes polybutylene water pipes, commonly referred to as PB. They were installed in homesbetween 1978 and 1995. They are easily recognizable as a flexible, gray, blue, or black plastic, which includemetal fittings that are connected by aluminum or copper bands. Polybutylene plumbing is a product that wasthe subject of one of the largest class action lawsuits in U.S. history. I didn't see any leaks, and the material thathas leaked in the past is the stuff with plastic fittings. I didn't see any plastic fittings. You can learn more about

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these pipes on the web at www.pbpipe.com.

Floor DrainsCover PlateAttention Recommended

The floor drain in the lower garage appeared to be clogged at the time of the inspection. The floor drain mustbe functional with the cleanout plug in place. Recommend service by a drain cleaning company.

Sump PumpPumpInformational

There is no pump installed in the sump drain system, and the drain tile doesn't appear to be continuouslyconnected back to the sump basket. Why was it installed like this? If the drain tile fills with water, the water willdump on your floor. This is an improper, incomplete installation.

Extension PipingInformational

There is no extension piping installed at the sump basket.Sump CoverUnacceptable

The sump cover is not screwed shut. Secure the cover with screws to prevent small children from accidentallyfalling in.

Dryer DuctDryer DuctFunctional

The dryer duct appears functional.For information on dryer duct safety, visit here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=45

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Laundry SinkGeneral Laundry Room CommentsInformational

In accordance with industry standards, I do not test clothes dryers, nor washing machines and their waterconnections and drainpipes. However, there are two things that you should be aware of. The water supply towashing machines is usually left on, and their hoses can leak or burst under pressure and continue to flow.Because of this, I recommend replacing the old rubber hoses with modern braided stainless steel types that aremuch more dependable.

SinkFunctional

The laundry sink is functional, and does not need service at this time.FaucetFunctional

The laundry sink faucet is functional.Trap and DrainFunctional

The trap and drain lines below the laundry sink are functional.

Water HeatersGeneral Gas Water Heater CommentsInformational

There are a wide variety of residential water heaters that range in capacity from fifteen to one hundred gallons.They can be expected to last at least as long as their warranty, but they will generally last longer. Few of themlast longer than fifteen to twenty years and many eventually leak.The water temperature should be set at a minimum of 110 degrees fahrenheit to kill microbes and a maximumof 125 degrees to prevent scalding.

Age and LocationInformational

The water heaters are both original (18 years old) and at the end of their life expectancy.The water heaters are located in the basement.

Combustion ChamberInformational

I heard pinging while the tanks were heating up. This is usually caused by the formation of scale and sediment.Minerals will form a scale on the bottom of the inner tank that traps minute amounts of moisture. Heat from thegas burner changes these tiny trapped amounts of moisture to steam and the pressures developed cause the

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rumbling and pounding noises. In addition to being annoying, accumulation of sediment and mineral deposits inthe bottom of the tank can appreciably shorten the tank life of the heater. The sediment can interfere with thetransfer of heat from the flame through the tank wall to the water. The sediment acts as an ‘insulation’restricting heat transfer and may contribute to a ‘not enough hot water’ trouble call. If the tank is not periodicallydrained and flushed, the sediment will continue to accumulate on the bottom the tank. The result is a cloggeddrain valve and scale build up - eventually to the point it may cover the immersed thermostat bulb.

Water Shut-Off Valve and ConnectorsFunctional

The shut-off valves and water connectors on the water heaters are present.Vent PipeFunctional

The vent piping and connections on the gas water heaters are functional.Drain ValveFunctional

The drain valve of the water heater is in place and presumed to be functional.The drain valves at the water heaters are in place and presumed to be functional.

Pressure Release Valve and Discharge PipeFunctional

The water heaters are both equipped with mandated temperature and pressure relief valves and dischargepipes.

Combustion Vent PortsUnacceptable

The opening for the combustion air duct sat flat on the floor, which effectively blocked the opening. Cut offsome of the duct so it ends 12" from the floor.

Fuel LinesGas Main Shut-Off LocationInformational

The main gas shutoff is located at the meter.Gas PipesUnacceptable

There is a plug or cap missing on the gas line for a dryer after the shutoff valve. If the gas valve is openedaccidentally, you would have gas entering the home. This could be a very dangerous situation. Have this openline plugged or capped.

Kitchen and Bathroom FixturesBathroom Sink Faucet Valves & DrainsFunctional

The bathroom sink faucets and their components are functional.Kitchen SinkFunctional

The kitchen sink is functional.Kitchen FaucetFunctional

The kitchen sink faucet is functional.Kitchen Trap and DrainFunctional

The trap and drain at the kitchen sink are functional.Garbage DisposalFunctional

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The garbage disposal is functional.Bar Sink Faucet Valves & DrainsAttention Recommended

The hot water was shut off at the bar sink.TubFunctional

The tub is functional.Tub-ShowerFunctional

The tub/shower is functional.ShowerFunctional

The shower and enclosure are functional.ToiletFunctional

The toilets are functional.

ElectricalI evaluate electrical systems in accordance with ASHI standards, which includes identifying the type andcapacity of the service, and evaluating panels, overload conductors, wires, panel grounds, and a representativenumber of switches and outlets. However, there are a wide variety of electrical systems with an equally widevariety of components, and any one particular system may not conform to current standards or provide thesame degree of service and safety. Regardless, I am not an electrician and in compliance with industrystandards I do not perform load-calculations to determine if the supply meets the demand of the household.Therefore, it is essential that any service recommendations or upgrades that I recommend should be completedwell before the close of escrow, because an electrician could reveal additional deficiencies or recommendsome upgrades.

Main PanelGeneral CommentsInformational

Common national safety standards require electrical panels to be weatherproof, readily accessible, and have aminimum of thirty-six inches of clear space in front of them for service. Also, they should have a maindisconnect, and each circuit within the panel should be clearly labeled as to it's specific purpose.

Size and LocationInformational

The main electrical panel is located inside the garage.The house is serviced by a 200 amp 120/240 volt main breaker service panel.

Service Entrance Mast Weatherhead and CleatInformational

The main conductor lines are underground, or part of a lateral service entrance. This is characteristic of modernelectrical services but, inasmuch as the service lines are underground and cannot be seen, they were notevaluated.

Main PanelFunctional

The main panel and its components have no visible deficiencies.WiringAttention Recommended

There is one lug with two wires connected to it on the neutral/ground bus bar. Each neutral wire should beattached to a separate lug to prevent potential overheating or arcing. Have an electrician correct this.

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Circuit BreakersUnacceptable

The common trip handle tie is missing at the main breakers. This is a potential shock hazard (if one handletrips, the rest need to trip). Have an electrician correct this.

The circuit breaker for the air conditioner is a 30 amp breaker, however, the air conditioner requires a 40 ampbreaker. Install a proper breaker.

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GroundingFunctional

The main electrical panel is grounded to the water pipe coming in to the house from the street, and may also begrounded with one or more driven ground rods which would be buried in the earth, and not visible.

ExteriorExterior LightsUnacceptable

The front yard light and outlets were not energized - I'm guessing the breakers for these outlets were the onesthat were turned off at the panel. The wiring that runs underground for this setup is not protected in conduit, soit's required to be at least 36" below grade to prevent accidental damage. It's only about a foot below grade,and the wire was apparently damaged (go figure!). Disconnect this wire from the panel so power doesn'taccidentally get turned on. If you're going to have the front light re-wired, replace the outlets and the outletbox, as they have been exposed to the elements and they're starting to rust.

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Exterior OutletsAttention Recommended

Cover plates were missing to most of the exterior outlets. All exterior outlets require weatherproof cover plates,recommend adding. Note: today's standards require weatherproof covers that allow a cord to be plugged inwhile the cover is in the closed position.

Garage WiringFunctional

The lights in the garage are functional, and do not need service at this time.Garage OutletsFunctional

The outlets in the garage that were tested are functional.Unacceptable

An extension cord is being used to power the east garage door opener. This opener needs to be plugged in toit's own outlet. Have another outlet installed for the opener.

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InteriorLights & WiringUnacceptable

There were improper closet lights in the lower level living room closet. Closet lights are supposed to have aglobe to prevent a fire hazard. Install proper lights. One of these lights was also loose and hanging by thewires, which is a shock hazard (exposed contacts).

OutletsFunctional

The interior outlets tested functional.

Smoke DetectorsLocationsInformational

Smoke detectors were present, but were not tested for functionality. Smoke detectors should be testedregularly, the batteries should be replaced regularly, and the detectors should be replaced at least every tenyears. For more safety tips on smoke detectors, visit http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=132

GFCI DevicesGeneral DescriptionInformational

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. A GFCI is an electrical device designed specifically to savelives. They come in the form of stand-alone devices, circuit breakers, and most commonly, outlets. Anyoutlets that are properly wired downstream from a GFCI will also be protected by the device. Todays standardsfor new installations require GFCI protection to the outlets in bathrooms, garages, outdoors, in crawl spaces,unfinished basements, kitchens, and within 6' of sinks. Only the very newest of homes will conform to all ofthese standards, and for this reason I will only identify the areas that have been GFCI protected.

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Bathroom(s)Attention Recommended

I was unable to locate a GFCI device for the whirlpool tub, which is required. Ask the seller about this; is therea GFCI device which protects the whirlpool? Where is it? Is it accessible (you need to be able to reset it if ittrips)? Is it functional, or in other words, does it interrupt the circuit when tested? If there is no GFCI device,have one installed before you use the whirlpool.

GarageFunctional

The GFCI device(s) for the readily accessible outlets in the garage is/are functional.ExteriorUnacceptable

Most of the exterior GFCI outlets do not trip, or 'interrupt' current when tested. These outlet are defective, andshould be replaced. This is a potential shock hazard.

KitchenAttention Recommended

The kitchen countertop outlets within 6' of the kitchen sink are GFCI protected. Today's standards require allkitchen outlets to be GFCI protected. Add GFCI protection for the rest of the kitchen outlets for added safety,especially the outlet at the center island, which was very close to the kitchen sink.

Sinks - otherFunctional

The GFCI device(s) for the outlets located within 6' of the bar sink is/are functional.

CO DetectorsLocationsUnacceptable

There are no carbon monoxide alarms present. Minnesota requires at least one approved carbon monoxidealarm within ten feet of every sleeping room. Install CO alarms as required.For more information, visit here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=40.

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HeatI evaluate heating systems in accordance with ASHI standards, which includes identifying, testing, andevaluating systems and their components. There are a wide variety of systems, which range from older floor,wall, and gravity furnaces to newer forced-air furnaces. Older ones, such as gravity furnaces and most floorand wall furnaces, are the least energy-efficient and the most dangerous. Therefore, it would be prudent toconsider replacing them with more economical and reliable forced-air units. However, if they are not replaced,you should be aware that many of them and their parts may no longer be available, and you should also beaware of common safety concerns associated with their use. I do test and describe each system, but I do notattempt to dismantle any portion of it, nor do I evaluate the following concealed components: the heatexchanger, or firebox, electronic air-cleaners, humidifiers, and in-line duct motors or dampers. Similarly, I donot check every register, at which the airflow may well be uneven and will decrease proportionate to itsdistance from the furnace. The airflow and the efficiency of any system can be compromised by poormaintenance, such as by the filters not being changed regularly, which will contaminate the ducts and have anadverse effect on air quality.

The sellers or the occupants of a property are often the best judges of how well a system works, and it would beprudent to ask them about its maintenance history and if they have been satisfied with its performance, or youmay wish to have a comprehensive evaluation by a specialist. Most heating systems have a design life oftwenty years, but if any system is more than ten years old, or if poor maintenance is suspected, it would bewise to schedule a comprehensive service that includes cleaning motors, fans, and ducts. Then, change thefilters every month, and schedule annual maintenance service.

Heat System 1Age of Heating SystemInformational

Heating system is less than 5 years old.Central Heating TypeInformational

Forced Air, High Efficiency, Sealed Combustion furnaceRigid metal ductworkFunctional

The rigid metal ductwork appears in good condition.Central Heating OperationUnacceptable

The condensate drain for the exhaust on the furnace is leaking. Have the leak repaired by a furnace tech.

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Return-Air Compartment and FilterUnacceptable

The electronic air cleaner doesn't appear to be working and the pre-filters were missing. Have the air cleanerrepaired and pre-filters installed, or install a passive filter.

Combustion-AirFunctional

The furnace is a high efficiency sealed combustion unit, and combustion air is provided to the furnace directlyfrom the outside.

Exposed Flue PipesFunctional

The vent pipe is functional.Grill & RegistersFunctional

The visible heat outlets and vents tested functional.HumidifierInformational

I do not test humidifiers for operation. Follow manufactures instructions for cleaning and changing temperaturesettings for proper operation. I do not recommend the use of whole-house humidifiers, and would suggest

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using room humidifiers if additional humidity is desired in a particular area. You can read more about this herehttp://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=105 .

Air ConditioningI evaluate air-conditioning systems in accordance with ASHI standards, including identifying and testing themand their components. There are a wide variety of heating and air-conditioning systems, which range fromnewer high-efficiency ones to older low efficiency ones. Also, there are an equally wide variety of factorsbesides the climate that can affect their performance, ranging from the size of the house, the number of itsstories, its orientation to the sun, the type of its roofing material, its ventilation system, and the thermal value ofits insulation and window glazing. This is why my contract specifically disclaims the responsibility of evaluatingthe overall efficiency of any system, because only a specialist can credibly do so.

AC - System 1Cooling AgeInformational

Newer than 5 years old. Units should be serviced every two years and filters changed every 2-3 months.

Cooling MethodInformational

The cooling system is comprised of a typical electric split system. It is made up of two main components, acompressor/condenser which is found outside of the house, and an evaporator coil, which is typically installedin the plenum directly above the furnace.

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Compressor- Condensing Fan- CoilInformational

I could not test the air-conditioning system because the ambient temperature was too low, and to test it wouldrisk damaging the coil. I recommend that you verify with the seller that the system is functional.

Refrigerant LinesFunctional

The refrigerant lines are in acceptable condition.Service DisconnectFunctional

The electrical disconnect at the condensing coil appears functional.Condensate Discharge PipeFunctional

The condensate discharge tube drains into the floor drain.

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InteriorIn accordance with ASHI standards, my inspection of the interior of the living space includes the visuallyaccessible areas of walls, floors, cabinets and closets, and includes the testing of a representative number ofwindows and doors, switches and outlets. I do not evaluate window treatments, nor move furniture, lift carpetsor rugs, empty closets or cabinets, and do not comment on cosmetic deficiencies. I may comment on thecracks that appear around windows and doors, or which follow the lines of framing members and the seams ofdrywall and plasterboard. These cracks are a consequence of movement, such as wood shrinkage andcommon settling, and will often reappear if they are not correctly repaired. Such cracks can become the subjectof disputes, and are therefore best evaluated by a geologist or a structural engineer. Similarly, there are anumber of environmental pollutants that can contaminate a home, such as asbestos, carbon monoxide, radon,and a variety of molds and fungi that require specialized testing equipment, which is beyond the scope of myservice. There are also lesser contaminants, such as odors that are typically caused by moisture penetratingconcealed slabs, or those caused by household pets. Inasmuch as the sensitivity to such odors is not uniform, Irecommend that you make this determination for yourself, and particularly if domestic pets are occupying thepremises, and then schedule whatever service may be deemed appropriate before the close of escrow.

CeilingsCeiling ConditionInformational

Stains visible on the ceiling in the basement (below a dead mouse or two...). Ask the seller about the history ofthe staining.There might have been at stain at the ceiling in the bathroom, just on the other side of the wall where I'mconcerned with moisture instrusion at the brick. The ceiling was just slightly discolored (pictured below, left),but it's worth looking it to.

WallsWallsFunctional

The walls appear to be functional.

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FloorsFloorFunctional

The floor surfaces appear in sound condition.

DoorsDoorsFunctional

The interior doors were in acceptable condition.

WindowsWindowsFunctional

The interior windows were functional.

Stairs and HandrailsStairs & HandrailsInformational

The guardrails have wide spacing. Today's standards require balusters spaced so that a 4 3/8" sphere cannotpass through. This is to prevent a child from getting their head stuck.

Attention RecommendedThe lowest set of steps had uneven riser heights - the top step was much higher than the rest, and this is a triphazard. Re-build this stairway to code.

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FireplacesFireplaceFunctional

The fireplace appears functional. This is a visual inspection only and this inspection is not a warranty and/orguarantee that the fireplace, chimney, and termination cap has been properly or safely installed/built. Anexhaustive evaluation of this fireplace is outside the scope of this inspection. Based on industry standards andthe limited inspection required by these standards, the fireplace appears to be in operable condition.

DamperFunctional

The fireplace damper is functional.Glass DoorsFunctional

The fireplace glass doors are functional.HearthFunctional

The fireplace hearth is functional.

Counters Cabinets KitchenCabinetsFunctional

The kitchen cabinets are functional, and do not have any significant damage.Attention Recommended

The range is not equipped with an anti-tip device that prevents the range from tipping, or its contents fromspilling, should a child attempt to climb on it or its open door. This is a recommended safety feature that shouldbe installed, and particularly if small children visit or occupy the residence.For more information, visit here http://www.structuretech1.com/blog/?p=50

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Counter TopFunctional

The kitchen counter tops are functional.

Counters Cabinets BathroomCabinetsFunctional

The bathroom cabinets are functional.Sink CountertopFunctional

The bathroom sink countertops are functional.

Vent FansBath Exhaust FanFunctional

The bathroom exhaust fans are functional.Kitchen Exhaust Fan or DowndraftFunctional

The kitchen exhaust fan is functional and a type that vents internally.

AtticIn accordance with ASHI standards, I will not attempt to enter an attic that has less than thirty-six inches ofheadroom, is restricted by ducts, or in which the insulation obscures the joists and thereby makes mobilityhazardous, in which case I will inspect the attic as best I can from the access point. In evaluating the type andamount of insulation on the attic floor, I use only generic terms, and do not sample or test its composition for aspecific identification. Also, I do not move or disturb any portion of the insulation, which may well obscure waterpipes, electrical conduits, junction boxes, exhaust fans, and other components.

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AtticAccessInformational

I accessed the attic from a scuttle hole in the northeast bedroom closet, and from a door in the masterbedroom.

Attention RecommendedThe door to the attic in the master bedroom was a standard interior type door with little insulating value. If youwant to have a door here, install an exterior type door.

Attic Roof Construction Framing and SheathingAttention Recommended

There was heavy moisture (and mold?) on the plywood at the east and west ends of the upper attic space. Thisis caused by condensation, which is caused by moisture making it's way up in to the attic space. The plywoodis starting to delaminate and should have been replaced when the roof is replaced, but now that it's still there, Idon't think it's worth tearing the roof off to replace the plywood. See notes in "Attic Insulation" section for waysto prevent further damage to the roof decking.

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Exhaust Fans and DuctsFunctional

The visible portions of the exhaust ducts are functional.Plumbing VentsFunctional

The visible portion of the plumbing vent was in acceptable condition.Attic InsulationInformational

Attic insulation consists of blown fiberglass insulation, and is at about 75% of today's standard for depth, whichis approximately 18", which will give an approximate R-Value of 38.

UnacceptableThere are bypasses to the attic space that need to be sealed to prevent conditioned household air from enteringin to the attic space. This is what is causing all the black staining and delamination to your plywood. The atticfloor was insulated, so I could not view all of the bypasses, but I dug through the insulation and found manysmall bypasses and one huge one, and many more likely exist. Attic bypasses can reduce the effectiveness ofinsulation by as much as 70%, and it is important for these bypasses to be sealed, especially if more insulationis going to be added to the attic space. This will help to prevent ice dams, minimize heat loss, and preventmoisture from getting in to the attic space. The Minnesota Department of Commerce has an excellent guide tolocating and correcting attic bypasses, which I recommend you download athttp://www.state.mn.us/mn/externalDocs/Commerce/Attic_Bypasses_110602012529_AtticBypass.pdf

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To get everything properly sealed, you may need to hire someone with an infrared camera to figure out whereelse air is leaking.

leaking up around the vent.around this area is proof that air isSeal this gap. The black insulation

bypasshuge

Attic VentilationAttention Recommended

The cardboard baffles for the soffit vents were collapsed in many areas at the upper attic. Have the ventilationcorrected - some of the vents are probably blocked, and this is contributing to the black staining in the upperattic.

Vapor BarrierFunctional

There is an acceptable poly vapor barrier installed underneath the insulation.

GarageIt is common for moisture to penetrate garages, because their slabs are on-grade. Evidence of this is typicallyapparent in the form of efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, that result when moisture penetrates thesidewalls or the slab. This is also quite common if a garage is below grade, and some sidewalls are even coredto relieve the pressure that can build up behind them, and which actually promotes drainage through thegarage. Garage door openings are not standard, and you may wish to measure the opening to ensure that

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there is sufficient clearance to accommodate your vehicles.

GarageVehicle Door and HardwareInformational

The bottom panel of the basement garage door is damaged and deteriorated. Replacement will be needed atsome point, but this isn't necessary just yet.

Automatic OpenerUnacceptable

The west garage door opener just made a buzzing noise when I pressed the button. This opener is defective,and should be replaced.

Garage Side DoorFunctional

The side door had a loose handle.Entry Door Into the HouseUnacceptable

The house entry door from the garage is not fire-rated. Replace this door with a fire-rated door in order tomaintain the necessary fire separation between the house and the garage. There was also a large gap at thefloor which will be a source of air leakage until you replace the door.

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FoundationFunctional

The visible portions of the garage foundation appeared functional.Garage FloorFunctional

The garage slab is in acceptable condition. Small cracks are common and result as a consequence of thecuring process, seismic activity, common settling, or the presence expansive soils, but are not structurallythreatening. Also, you may notice some salt crystal formations that are activated by moisture penetrating theslab.

Exterior Garage SidingInformational

See house notes on siding - the garage siding was the same type, age, and condition as the house siding, andneeds repair.

Garage Walls and CeilingInformational

There were a few mysterious black 'stains' at the walls and ceiling in the upper garage.Fire Separation WallFunctional

The fire separation wall in the garage is functional.Garage RoofingInformational

See notes on house roofing.Garage Roof StructureFunctional

The garage roof is framed with a pre-fabricated truss system that appears to be in sound condition.

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CERTIFICATIONS AND AFFILIATIONS

Reuben SaltzmanHome Inspector

Minnesota State Certified Building Official Limited #MN2893Member, American Society of Home Inspectors, #244112Member, Minnesota Society of Housing InspectorsCertified National Home Inspector, #NS994771Member, National Association of Certified Home InspectorsLicensed Minneapolis Truth-in-Sale of Housing EvaluatorLicensed Saint Paul Truth-in-Sale of Housing EvaluatorLicensed South Saint Paul Time-of-Sale EvaluatorLicensed Maplewood Truth-in-Sale of Housing EvaluatorLicensed Hopkins Truth-in-Housing EvaluatorLicensed Bloomington Time-of-Sale Housing EvaluatorAffiliate Member, Southern Twin Cities Association of Realtors

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Pre-Closing Walk Through ChecklistPRE-CLOSING WALK-THROUGH REVIEWThe items below should be inspected to discover damage that may have become observable after removal ofpossessions or other changes. Allow one hour for the walk through.ITEMS TO BE INSPECTED CIRCLE YES OR NO1) PAPERWORK INSPECTIONA. Have you received all disclosure papers? YES NOB. Have you received all inspection reports? YES NOC. Have you checked with the city on the history? YES NOD. Were any work orders requested by the buyer? YES NOE. Has all work been done to your satisfaction? YES NOF. Have all stored items been removed? YES NO2) OUTDOOR INSPECTIONA. Check steps, sidwalks, patios for change. YES NOB. Check drainage, gutters, down spouts for change. YES NOC. Check doors, windows, siding, deck for change. YES NOD. Check roofing for loose or missing shingles. YES NO3) GARAGE INSPECTIONA. Check for door transmitters and auto reverse. YES NOB. Check for ceiling leaks. YES NOC. Check for lights to operate. YES NO4) BASEMENT INSPECTIONA. Check for stains, dampness or wet areas. YES NOB. Check for wall and floor cracks. YES NOC. Check for sump pump and its operation. YES NO5) PLUMBING INSPECTIONA. Flush all toilets, operate all faucets. YES NOB. Check for hot an cold water and its pressure. YES NOC. Check traps for leaks and proper drainage. YES NOD. Operate all appliances. YES NO6) ELECTRICAL INSPECTIONA. Check the lights and outlets. YES NOB. Check door bell, smoke alarms, CO detectors. YES NO(Do not check smoke alarms if there is a security system.)C. Check all bath and kitchen fans. YES NO7) FURNACE AND AIR CONDITIONING INSPECTIONA. Cycle furnace and air conditioning. YES NOB. Recommend not to test heat pump or air conditioning when YES NOtemperature is cooler than 65-75 degrees outside.8) INSPECION OF INTERIOR ROOMSA. Check operation of doors, windows and screens. YES NOB. Check ceiling, walls and floors for stains or damages. YES NOC. Check handrails. YES NO9) ATTIC INSPECTIONA. Check for leaks, stains, stored items and pests. YES NOB. Check for any other areas of concern. YES NO10) If any items mentioned above differ from your expectations, contact your agent orrepresentative immediately to resolve before your closing.11) We strongly advise you to change all door locks, electical devices and securitycodes. Understand all seasonal maintenance serviceable items; pools, spas,lawn sprinkers, etc.Date of pre-closing inspection walk-throughXSignature of ClientX

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REPORT CONCLUSION12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555

Congratulations on the purchase of your new home. Inasmuch as we never know who will be occupying orvisiting a property, whether it be children or the elderly, we ask you to consider following these general safetyrecommendations: install smoke detectors in every sleeping room and on every level of the home. Installcarbon monoxide detectors as per manufacture recommendations; identify all escape and rescue ports;rehearse an emergency evacuation of the home; upgrade older electrical systems by at least addingground-fault outlets; never service any electrical equipment without first disconnecting its power source;safety-film all non-tempered glass; ensure that every elevated window and the railings of stairs, landings,balconies, and decks are child-safe, meaning that barriers are in place or that the distance between the rails isnot wider than four inches; regulate the temperature of water heaters to prevent scalding; make sure that goodsthat contain caustic or poisonous compounds, such as bleach, drain cleaners, and nail polish removers bestored where small children cannot reach them; ensure that all garage doors are well balanced and have asafety device, particularly if they are the heavy wooden type; remove any double-cylinder deadbolts fromexterior doors; and consider installing child-safe locks or alarms on the exterior doors of all pool or spaproperties.

We are proud of our service, and trust that you will be happy with the quality of our report. We have madeevery effort to provide you with an accurate assessment of the condition of the property and its componentsand to alert you to any significant defects or adverse conditions. However, we may not have tested everyoutlet, and opened every window and door, or identified every minor defect. Also because we are notspecialists or because our inspection is essentially visual, latent defects could exist. Therefore, you should notregard our inspection as conferring a guarantee or warranty. It does not. It is simply a report on the generalcondition of a particular property at a given point in time. Furthermore, as a homeowner, you should expectproblems to occur. Roofs will leak, drain lines will become blocked, and components and systems will failwithout warning. For these reasons, you should take into consideration the age of the house and itscomponents and keep a comprehensive insurance policy current. If you have been provided with a homeprotection policy, read it carefully. Such policies may only cover insignificant costs, such as that of rooterservice, and the representatives of some insurance companies may deny coverage on the grounds that a givencondition was preexisting or not covered because of a code violation or manufacture's defect. Therefore, youshould read such policies very carefully, and depend upon our company for any consultation that you mayneed.

Thank you for choosing Structure Tech Home Inspections

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Inspection Address: 12345 Any Old Street, Minneapolis, MN 55555Inspection Date/Time: 4/16/2009 12:00 pm to

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CONFIDENTIAL INSPECTION REPORT 1INSPECTION AGREEMENT 2GENERAL INFORMATION 4SCOPE OF WORK 5Exterior 7

Grading and Drainage 7Wall Surfaces 9Exterior Features 11

Structural 16Structural Elements 16Basement 17

Roof/Chim 20Roof 21Chimney 24

Plumbing 24Waste and Drainage System 24Water Distribution Piping 25Floor Drains 26Sump Pump 26Dryer Duct 26Laundry Sink 27Water Heaters 27Fuel Lines 28Kitchen and Bathroom Fixtures 28

Electrical 29Main Panel 29Exterior 31Interior 33Smoke Detectors 33GFCI Devices 33CO Detectors 34

Heat 35Heat System 1 35

Air Conditioning 37AC - System 1 37

Interior 39Ceilings 39Walls 39Floors 40Doors 40Windows 40Stairs and Handrails 40Fireplaces 41Counters Cabinets Kitchen 41Counters Cabinets Bathroom 42Vent Fans 42

Attic 42Attic 43

Garage 45

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Garage 46CERTIFICATIONS AND AFFILIATIONS 48Pre-Closing Walk Through Checklist 49REPORT CONCLUSION 50TABLE OF CONTENTS 51

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