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DEAR FELLOW ENTHUSIAST CONGRATULATION`S ON YOUR CHOICE OF AN AK 427 COBRA KIT. THE AK 427 WAS INTRODUCED IN 1990 AND IS THE RESULT ENTHUSIASTS LIKE YOURSELF WANTING TO SEE A QUALITY PRODUCT THAT WAS STRONG WITH A FLEXIBILTY OF BUILD ENABLING THE USE OF DIFFERENT ENGINE GEARBOX COMBINATIONS COMBINED WITH THE STRENGTH AND RELIABILITY OF JAGUAR RUNNING GEAR. WE HOPE YOU HAVE MANY HOURS OF ENJOYMENT WITH YOUR BUILD, THE BUILD MANUAL IS FOR YOUR REFERENCE BUT REMEMBER WE ARE ONLY A PHONE CALL OR E-MAIL AWAY SHOULD YOU NEED ANY HELP OR ADVICE. WE CONTINUALLY STRIVE TO IMPROVE AND UPDATE THE KIT AND MANY IMPROVEMENTS ARE DUE TO OUR HANDS ON APPROACH AND AK OWNERS FEEDBACK. THE AK 427 IS DESIGNED WITH FLEXIBILITY IN MIND,YOU BUILD FROM THE BASIC CHASSIS BODY PACKAGE OR FROM A ROLLING CHASSIS,WE EVEN DO TURNKEY OPTIONS,THIS FLEXIBILITY ENABLES YOU TO SPREAD THE COST TO SUIT YOUR CIRCUMSTANCES. AS WELL AS THE BASIC KIT,WE ALSO SUPPLY SOME OF THE SPECIALIST PARTS REQUIRED IN THE BUILD WITH OPTIONS FROM STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING TO HEADER TANK`S AND WASHER BOTTLES. WHATEVER YOUR REQUIRMENTS, AK WILL ENDEAVOR TO MEET YOUR NEEDS WE WISH YOU GREAT SUCCESS WITH YOUR PROJECT. KEN , JON and DAN FREEMAN.

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INTRODUCTION WE WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU READ THIS BUILD MANUAL IN ITS ENTIRETY SO AS TO FULLY FAMILIARISE YOURSELF WITH THE CONTENTS HEREIN. ALTHOUGH EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO APPROACH THE BUILD COMPREHENSIVELY, THIS IS NOT A DIFINITIVE WORK AND IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE WITH WHICH TO ASSIST AND ADVISE YOU DURING THE BUILD PROCESS. DUE TO THE VERY NATURE AND CONCEPT OF BUILDING A REPLICA CAR IN COMPONENT FORM AND THE DIFFERENCES WITH WHICH EACH CUSTOMER WILL APPROACH THEIR PROJECT, THERE IS GOING TO BE AREAS NOT ADDRESSED, WITH THIS IN MIND THE CUSTOMER SHOULD APPROACH THE BUILD AWARE THAT THERE PARTICULAR CHOICES WILL AFFECT THE FINAL OUTCOME. WITH THIS IN MIND WE ARE ALWAYS HERE TO HELP AND ADVISE SHOULD ANY PROBLEMS AND/OR QUERIES ARISE? WE HAVE SOLVED MANY PROBLEMS FOR PREVIOUS CUSTOMERS DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK, YOU WONT BE THE FIRST. GOOD LUCK. KEN, JON and DAN

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CONTENTS CHAPTER ONE…………. Your AK 427 Specification Engine and Gearbox options AK 427 Kit contents Optional Parts Manufactured by AK Donor list Parts suppliers list and approximate costs CHAPTER TWO…………. Preparation Safety Tools Workarea CHAPTER THREE……… Chassis/Body Chassis support and preparation Body storage CHAPTER FOUR………… Running gear/Suspension General information Selection of suspension/Running gear Front suspension stripping/preparation Rear suspension stripping/preparation Ready to rebuild CHAPTER FIVE………….. Chassis build Front suspension fitting Rear suspension and differential fitting Brake lines/pipes Fuel tank Fuel pump and fuel lines/pipes CHAPTER SIX……………. Engine/ Gearbox/ Exhaust General information Fitting CHAPTER SEVEN……….. Cooling System Radiator/fitting Header tank Plumbing/hoses Electric fans/thermostatic control

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CHAPTER EIGHT……….. Body/Fitting Preparation/fitting body Roll bar & seatbelt brackets Windscreen Door locks Screen washers Boot Hinges/locks/bonnet stays Lights/Head /Indicators/Brake/Number plate Petrol filler/Pipework Nudgebars/Overriders Seatbelts CHAPTER NINE…………. Cockpit/components Mechanical Pedal box assembly Steering column Handbrake Heating system Wiper motor/wipers Instrument panel/instruments/Switchgear CHAPTER TEN…………… Electrical Wiring loom/Fitting Cockpit Engine bay Dashboard Front lights Rear lights CHAPTER ELEVEN……… Cockpit/Components Upholstery Carpets Door panels Seats CHAPTER TWELVE…….. Finishing Wheels/Tyres Hood.

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YOUR AK 427 SPECIFICATION CHASSIS………………… Ladder frame construction of 75 x 50 x 3.2 section steel for the main rails and 25 x 25 for the backbone section, floors are paneled in 12 gauge steel for extra stiffness. The chassis is jig assembled for accuracy of and comp- nent fit ensuring correct suspension geometry SUSPENSION……………. Front XJ6/POST 1974.Front Upper and lower wishbones,swivel hub assembly,stub axles,AK supplied mounting plate for coil over shocks,AK supplied coil over shock absorbers Rear XJ6/POST 1974.Driveshafts and lower wishbones shortened supplied by AK on an exchange basis,rear axle tie bars supplied by AK,rear diff mounting bracket supplied by AK rear hub assemblies. STEERING……………….. Rack and pinion modified and supplied by AK and Rover SD1 steering column BRAKING SYSTEM…….. Pedal box, servo, master cylinder (Dual circuit) sourced from Morris Marina,Pedals modified by AK,or AK manufactured pedal box using rover 214/216 master cylinder incorporated with front and Rear calipers and Discs (vented front) from Jaguar XJ6. FINAL DRIVE……………. Differential from Jaguar XJ6/12/s RATIOS 3:54:1 for Rover 3500 3:31:1 Larger capacity(350 ci) 3:07:1 With 4 speed box 2:88:1 Automatic box Utilising Jaguar Or Rover Propshaft shortened to fit. BODY………………………. GRP body gel coated to customer choice constructed in mold With only three main components (multi layered chopped Glass mat layed for strength in key areas,Cockpit and Boot Jig bonded to shell for accuracy and rigid monocoque,double Skinned Bonnet,Boot and Doors,complete with interior side Panels and Dashboard. WHEELS/TYRES.………… Halibrand replicas with spinners 16inch or 17inch,check with AK for correct OFFSET. ENGINE & GEARBOX APPLICATIONS GENERAL INFO………….. The AK 427 is designed to accept various Engine and Gear box combination`s, listed below are some that have been applied previously to the AK chassis,and have proved to be reliable,easily fitted and giving excellent performance in keeping with the concept of the original.

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YOUR AK 427 ENGINES………………….. ROVER V8, 3500cc/3900cc/4200cc/4500cc/5000cc/6300cc Although expensive to tune in its standard forms ie 3.5ltr 3.9ltr and 4.2ltr this is a very capable engine of light weight compared to alternatives and extremely reliable with an output of 165bhp to240bhp,the tuned versions of all the above whilst an expensive process can yield power outputs of over 350bhp the power to weight ratio of this engine and its CHEVROLET (small block) 265ci/283ci/302ci/327ci/350ci 4 bolt mains, cast iron or aluminium cylinder heads,solid or hydraulic or solid lifters, power outputs of 170 bhp to 380bhp achievable,these engines are easily obtainable and comparat ively inexpensive to tune compared to the rover, although it is heavier due to being a cast iron block. FORD V8, 221ci/260ci/289ci/302ci/351ci the 289 being the original choice of these engines as fitted by Mr Shelby himself like all the above Chevrolet engines the Ford power units lend themselves to tuning with high outputs attainable BIG BLOCK CHEVROLET AND FORD,whilst these engines Appeal is obvious,a tight fit and cooling can cause there own headaches. GEARBOXES……………… ROVER 5 speed for Rover engines CHEVEROLET,T5 or T10,Trimac or Getrag FORD, T10 or 4 speed top loader or or any of the above as fitted to chevy with suitable adaptors.

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YOUR AK 427 LEADING DIMENSIONS & DESIGN WEIGHTS

AK 427 DESIGN WEIGHTS. AXLE 1 638 kg AXLE 2 780 kg GROSS 1400 kg

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YOUR AK 427 AK 427 KIT CONTENTS CHASSIS…………………………Ladder type with partial backbone and full steel lowered Floors BODY…………………………….Finished in white gel coat,(colours optional)

• scuttle hoop bonded into full inner tub • body temporarily bolted to chassis • doors and bonnet pre-hung • top and bottom radiator frame • steering rack • track rod ends • steering arms • steering rack to column extention • front shock absorber mounting plates • engine and gearbox mounting plates • wiper motor bracket (attached to scuttle hoop) • steering column bracket (attached to scuttle hoop) • handbrake mounting bracket • handbrake cable • rear axle tie bars • shortened rear wishbones (exchange) • shortened driveshafts (exchange) • roll bar mountings • front and rear nudge bar mounting brackets • dashboard (blank) • interior trim panels • glove box moulding • modified pedal box (exchange) • all body holes marked or pre-cut • holes drilled and tapped for door locks • rear differential mounting bracket

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YOUR AK 427 OPTIONAL PARTS SUPPLIED BY AK (all prices plus VAT) COIL OVER SHOCKS (6 of) PETROLTANK STAINLESS STEEL (14 gall) HEADER TANK (stainless steel polished) WASHER BOTTLE (stainless steel polished) REAR WHEEL ARCH STONEGUARDS (stainless steel) SIDE VENT`S (stainless steel) BONNET AND BOOT GAS RAMS plus fitting kit STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING (cut and folded) STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING (fitted prior to delivery) SEAT SHELL`S SEATS --- LEATHER SEATS --- VINYL UNDERFLOOR EXHAUST SYSTEM and MANIFOLDS STAINLESS STEEL SIDEPIPES and MANIFOLDS AK MANUFACTURED PEDAL BOX – uses ROVER 214/216 servo/master cylinder

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YOUR AK 427 DONOR PARTS LIST JAGUAR POST 1974 (VENTILATED FRONT DISCS) FRONT AXLE GET SCRAP YARD TO CUT OFF COMPLETE SUBFRAME REAR AXLE COMPLETE ON SUBFRAME RATIOS 3.54:1 For 3500 Rover engine 3.31:1 Larger capacity engines 3.07:1 For 4 speed gearbox 2.88:1 With autobox PROP SHAFT Jaguar (or Rover prop) JAGUAR XJS HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY (or new item from Jaguar approx £60:00) ROVER SDI RADIATOR (standard for Rover 3500, 3 row core No BTP 1019 for larger capacity engines) STEERING COLUMN (complete with attachment bolts and lower column support bracket) ENGINE AND GEARBOX REV COUNTER (use chip to convert triumph or Jag to 8 cyl) WASHER BOTTLE & PUMP (small bottle) MARINA or ITAL DUAL CIRCUIT PEDAL BOX COMPLETE or AK manufactured pedal box assembly WIPER MOTOR,GEARBOXES & CONNECTING TUBES POLO MK1 HEATER TRIUMPH ACCELERATOR PEDAL DASH WITH ALL CLOCKS (2.5 or dolomite or Jaguar) ALLEGRO or METRO 2 ELECTRIC RADIATOR FANS

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CHAPTER TWO PREPARATION SAFETY………………….. There are many dangers in the workshop,we cannot stress enough the need for safety, you need to be aware of the inherent hazards surrounding you whilst building and stripping mechanical components and in using electrically operated power tools. The completion of this project is more easily embarked upon if you use common sense when applying safety procedures and cleanliness in the work area as part of your routine before and after and during the build process each day. GRP. Glass reinforced plastic (fibreglass) is a hazardous material and adequate precautions should be taken in its use and preparation, HAZARDS.

I. Dust in the air from filing, drilling, cutting and sanding. II. Sharp edges and splinters.

III. Fumes from resin. WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING ,FACEMASK and KEEP WORK AREA WELL VENTILATED.

REMEMBER… DO DON`T Use eye protection when using power Attempt to lift heavy components without aid tools,and when welding or under the always get help. vehicle. Take short cuts to finish a job. Keep loose clothing and long hair out of the way of tools and moving parts. Use damaged or ill fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. Remove rings wristwatches and any- Thing that may get caught. Leave tools or parts or oil and fuel spills lying Around always clean up. Ensure that jacking equipment/axle stands have sufficient load capacity. Allow children or pets near the vehicle whilst it is supported on jacks/stands, or whilst using If working alone get someone to check power tools/welding equipment on you periodically Smoke near inflammable chemicals Make sure you have sufficient time to complete tasks

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DUST. Can cause irritation to the eyes and skin, block nasal passages and cause respiratory Problems clean all work area after working with GRP. ie. After sanding, cutting and Drilling. EYES. Wear protective eye glasses whilst carrying out operations with electrical tools, such As grinding, drilling, sanding. FIRE. The workshop will be full of combustible materials and the fire hazard cannot be Overstated, it is in your own interest to invest in a fire extinguisher and take simple precautions to prevent the risk of fire.

I. NO SMOKING in the workshop. II. ALL PETRO CHEMICALS stored in a steel locker/drawer

III. ELECTRICAL TOOLS unplugged and wire coiled neatly (trip hazard). IV. RAGS AND PAINTBRUSHES used with chemicals (petrol/thinners) tidied away

so as not to be ignited by sparks from welding/grinding SUPPORTING THE CAR. It cannot be stressed enough that the chassis/car is supported on sturdy axle stands or ramps NEVER work on the vehicle only supported on a jack or unsuitable items such as wooden blocks or bricks. TOOLS…………. If you consider the outlay already on purchasing your AK, it is obviously worthwhile to invest in adequate tools for the job in hand. Depending on which jaguar was donor vehicle early cars were imperial, later cars metric, you will require : SOCKET SET. 3/8in to 1 ¼ in AF . or 10mm to 32mm. ½ inch drive with long and short extensions and universal/wobbly joint attachment. 3/8 inch and ¼ inch drive sets would also be useful. COMBINATION SPANNERS 3/8 in to ¾ in AF. or 10mm to 19mm.s SCREWDRIVERS various sizes, flat bladed and crosshead/posidrive. MOLEGRIPS, ADJUSTABLE SPANNERS, ALLEN KEYS (hex wrenches) FILES, HAMMER RUBBER MALLET and HAND DRILL PLIERS. Various long nose, square jaw and circlip pliers(for internal/external circlips) wire strippers/crimpers, side cutters. STANLEY KNIFE, SPIRIT LEVEL, VARIOUS SAWS (for metal and wood). ELECTRICAL TOOLS…. Grinder , sander, Drill and various bits.

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MISCELLANEOUS…….. tape measure/ruler , spirit level , marker pens, masking tape. SPECIAL TOOLS…… pullers, spring compressors ( Hire shops are good source for these) WORKSHOP/GARAGE. Working on or around the vehicle requires space, a double garage is preferable but not available to all, so consider your work area and storage facilities, room to lie on the floor and stripping down of donor parts and storage of same. Keep the floor areas clean and tidy, so consider shelving for storage, various containers for nuts/ bolts/screws and all the other bits and pieces you will acquire during the build process. Also consider storage of tools and availability, a workbench is a bonus but workmate will suffice you will also need the use of a vice and electrical sockets. Invest in a FIRE EXTINGUISHER a fire blanket and a bucket of sand , you may need them ! IT IS ALSO ADVISABLE TO SECURE YOUR WORKSHOP.YOUR PROJECT IS VERY VALUABLE AS ARE THE TOOLS TO BUILD IT. With all this in place you are now ready to embark on your project.

THINK CLEAN : THINK TIDY THINK SAFE

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CHAPTER THREE CHASSIS/BODY CHASSIS SUPPORT/PREPARATION…… The chassis /bodyshell is received with the body temporarily fitted to the body, it is advisable at this stage before removal of the bodyshell to mark the exposed chassis rails in the engine bay with a piece of chalk, or to make a template of the engine bay area as this will assist in the positioning/fitting of brake lines and fuel lines. You will have also receive other items necessary for your build, namely nudge bar brackets, shortened wishbones, roll bar brackets, various nuts and bolts for body to chassis fitment. A full list can be seen in the chapter <YOUR AK 427>. SUPPORTING CHASSIS. The chassis needs to be on level ground, supported on axle stands and at a height to enable getting underneath, to enable the correct set-up of the suspension components the chassis will need to be level front to rear and side to side. PAINTING CHASSIS. The AK chassis is fully painted by AK unless specified by the customer that they wish to prepare and paint the chassis themselves, you can also paint it again yourself at this stage if you wish. BODYSHELL STORAGE….. Removing the body from the chassis will require the help of a up to four able bodied people as the bodyshell is heavy, store the body away unless you are dressing out the engine bay and/or you are using a coloured gel coat and are preparing it yourself. also some items that will need to be fitted to bodyshell before refitting to chassis, such as pedal box and heater assembly.

IMPORTANT NOTE RE: BODY STORAGE. ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE BODY FROM THE CHASSIS IT NEEDS TO BE STORED ON A LEVEL SURFACE WITH THE BOOT AREA SUPPORTED, TO ASSIST IN THIS YOU WILL FIND WATCHING CLOSELY THE DOOR GAPS AND MAINTAINING THE GAP THAT WAS APPARENT WHEN MOUNTED ON THE CHASSIS.

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CHAPTER FOUR RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION GENERAL INFORMATION DONOR VEHICLE. The chassis of your AK has been designed to work with the suspension components and running gear from the XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguar, post 1974 series 2 or 3 models. SELECTION. The purchase of a complete Jaguar donor vehicle is necessary as you will require the log book from the vehicle, although it is possible to obtain parts required from vehicle dismantlers and purchase a scrap jaguar for its logbook. When selecting your donor vehicle, it is in your interest to select as low a mileage jaguar or one that you have inspected the suspension components to ascertain the amount of refurbishment required, it is also important to select a vehicle with the ventilated disc and four piston calliper set-up as this is superior to the earlier solid disc and three piston caliper arrangement on earlier cars. You also need to take the final drive ratio into consideration and check it is suitable for your engine/gearbox combination, refer to information in chapter <YOUR AK 427>. FINAL DRIVE RATIO determines the acceleration and maximum speed of the vehicle, a high figure (ie, 3:54:1) gives faster acceleration but lower maximum speed, a low figure (ie 2:88:1) gives lower acceleration but higher maximum speed.

: IMPORTANT NOTE : YOU MUST USE THE FRONT VENTILATED DISC AND FOUR POT BRAKE CALIPER SETUP, THIS IS FOR SAFETY AND SUPERIOR BRAKE EFFICIENCY

THE INFORMATION ON STRIP DOWN & OVERHAUL OF SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS INTENDED AS GUIDANCE ONLY, YOU MUST USE THE RELEVANT WORKSHOP MANUAL AS THE PRIME REFERENCE

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The suspension components are mounted in subframe assemblies, you need to remove these from the donor vehicle first, then remove the suspension components and brake components from subframes, rusted nuts and bolts are best soaked overnight if possible with penetrating oil or similar to aid the strip down procedure, wire brushing around nuts bolts and threads will aid removal and make the task a lot easier. FRONT SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION. Work on one side at a time, begin with the removal of the brake calipers and discs, you will need coil spring compressor for next step, removal of coil spring, After removal of the six retaining bolts holding spring platform to lower wishbone remove the spring, undo nuts securing upper and lower ball joints separate from stub axle carrier and remove carrier. Remove both wishbones; the upper wishbone is in two halves; also note carefully the position and number of camber shims for replacement during rebuild. Repeat procedure for the other side. Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated, make a list of parts that will need replacement. You will not require the following parts: dustshield / steering arm / shock absorbers / anti roll bar / subframe. refer to diagram front suspension, as some of the above parts are AK replacement items. When reconditioning/rebuilding the front suspension, it is advisable to renew as many of the items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn and need replacement. ie: upper and lower ball joints / bearings and races / bushes /new ventilated discs / refurbished exchange calipers. REAR SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION. Remove the suspension components from the subframe first, this will involve the removal of the tie plate which is under the final drive housing and ties the subframe together, the bolts securing this plate are invariably rusty, the six bolts into the subframe halves can be chiselled or ground off, the bolts which fix the plate to the final drive housing need to be unscrewed as once the final drive is placed into the AK chassis a metal plate is fixed to the underside of the final drive housing to protect fuel line which runs under the housing.

:WARNING: THE FRONT SPRINGS ARE UNDER A GREAT DEAL OF TENSION UNTIL THE PRESSURE IS RELIEVED HANDLE WITH CARE AS THIS EXERCISE CAN BE DANGEROUS

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NOTE: remove the top centre bushes from the rear shock absorbers, you will require them for fitment of the front shock absorbers when rebuilding. Keep the shims from drive shafts to disc, as these are required for camber set-up, and the shims from the inner pivot mounting. The driveshaft universal joints will need to be removed and the driveshaft flange and splined yoke kept, the driveshafts are returned to AK for shortened items along with the wishbones. The bolt and bush holding the original pressed steel radius arm in position are also required for fitment of radius arms supplied by AK, you will notice the bolt has half of the hexagonal head removed; this is so it will pass the shock absorber flange, retain this bolt and bush. make a list of parts that will need replacement. You will not require the following parts: radius arms / shock absorbers / coil springs / subframe. When reconditioning/rebuilding the rear suspension, it is advisable to renew as many of the items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn and need replacement. ie: driveshaft Ujs / Lower wishbone needle rollers / rear discs / hub carrier bearings / refurbished exchange calipers. Drain gear oil from final drive/differential . The final drive /differential examine for any pinion backlash, renew the two driveshaft output seals and the front input seal (there is no need to dismantle the differential to do this). Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated. READY TO REBUILD With all donor parts refurbished and necessary components replaced with new items, along with the exchange driveshafts and wishbones from AK, you should also have purchased the six coil over shocks required and can now rebuild the front and rear suspension assemblies and fit them to AK chassis.

: PLEASE NOTE : AK WILL SUPPLY YOU WITH SHORTENED REAR WISHBONES AND DRIVESHAFTS ON AN EXCHANGE BASIS.

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CHAPTER FIVE CHASSIS BUILD FRONT SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING. PARTS REQUIRED ……. refer to diagram for AK front suspension. Upper wishbone / wishbone pivot shaft / Camber shims. Upper and lower wishbone bushes. Lower wishbone / Lower wishbone pivot shaft. Upper ball joint / distance piece / castor control shims. Lower ball joint. Stub axle carrier / stub axle. Wheel hubs. Wheel bearings / bearing races / seals. Ventilated discs Brake callipers (4 piston type) Track rod ends (for steering rack, AK supplied part). Steering arms ( AK supplied part). Mounting plate for shocks (AK supplied part). Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK). All nuts / bushes / washers. Locking wire. Shock absorber bushes from rear suspension. REBUILD / FITTING. Fit the two upper wishbone arms to the upper pivot shaft using the required bushes and washers. Fit top/upper ball joint between the wishbone arms using the castor control shims, start with three between front wishbone arm and ball joint casting and distance piece (this is a temporary set-up, castor will/may be adjusted later with car at ride height, they must also be fitted to avoid distortion of bushes at pivot shaft). (figs 5.1 / 5.2)

: IMPORTANT : THE INFORMATION REGARDING REBUILDING AND REFURBISHMENT OF SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS FOR GUIDANCE ONLY, YOU MUST REFER TO THE RELEVANT JAGUAR WORKSHOP MANUAL AS THE MAIN REFERENCE FOR THE REBUILDING PROCESS AND TORQUE SETTINGS

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(fig 5.1)

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(fig 5.2) Fit complete upper wishbone to AK chassis at the mounting point toward front of chassis into the bolt holes provided; remember to use camber shims (saved from stripping front suspension) between pivot arm and chassis; (fig 5.3)

(fig 5.3) Fit lower wishbone arm to chassis mounting point (these are handed, check and fit to correct side), (lower balljoint hole cranked forward).Fit bottom/lower ball joint to stub axle/hub carrier, which in turn is then placed between upper and lower wishbones (remember to use nyloc locking nuts on ball joint threads). Assemble coil-over shock using coil springs and damper, using the bushes removed from the rear shocks during dismantling, place into the mounting eyes of shock absorber which can then be attached to the upper shock mounting on the AK chassis, extend shock assembly thru lower wishbone and attach lower shock mounting to coil-over shock mounting plate, this can then be attached with four bolts to the underside of lower wishbone, ( NOTE: fit so adjusting screw on shock absorber is accessible when vehicle is on road wheels). Assemble ventilated disc to hub, tighten bolts to disc diagonally, torque bolts to specified setting in workshop manual, fit complete hub/disc assembly to stub axle (refer to workshop manual re; procedure for adjustment) remember to fit split pin to castellated locking washer.

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Next the brake caliper and steering arms (note; bolts thru caliper and steering arms need to be wire locked). Attach supplied track rod ends to steering rack which has been pre-fitted to the AK chassis, and then attach to steering arms fit and tighten bolt. Repeat procedure for other side. REAR SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING. PARTS REQUIRED ……. Refer to diagram AK rear suspension. Differential (new pinion seal and output shaft seals fitted). Differential to chassis mounting bracket (AK supplied part). Inner pivot mounting / wishbone spacer tube / shims. Inner pivot (fulcrum) shaft. Wishbone (shortened exchange item from AK ). Wishbone needle roller bearings and seals. Driveshaft (shortened exchange item from AK). Driveshaft yoke and flange. Driveshaft universal joints. Hub carrier and hubs (rebuilt, refer to jaguar workshop manual). Hub carrier bearings and seals. Outer pivot (fulcrum) shaft. Shims (camber control). Brake discs (solid). Brake calipers. Pivot shaft for coil over shocks. Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK). All nuts / bolts / washers. Grease nipples. Locking wire. REBUILDING / FITTING. When fitting the rear suspension and differential it is more appropriate to part assemble the unit first before fitting to the AK chassis.

: IMPORTANT : EXCEPT FROM THOSE ALREADY MENTIONED ABOVE, ALL RELEVANT TORQUE SETTINGS FOR FRONT SUSPENSION SHOULD BE DONE WITH CAR ON ITS ROAD WHEELS, AND SHOULD BE DONE AGAIN AFTER CAR HAS DONE 300 to 500 MILES.

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(fig 5.4)

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It is important to note the rear brake discs need to run centrally through the brake calipers, this can be achieved by the use of alignment shims between the differential output flange and the inner mounting face of the brake disc, a trial fit is necessary and is achieved by temporarily fitting and removing brake caliper and brake disc and packing with alignment shims until the brake disc runs centrally through the brake caliper, once this has been achieved the brake caliper can be permanently fastened into position, (remembering to wire lock the bolts into position). Fit inner pivot mounting bracket to differential also with required shims between mounting bracket and differential casing, wire lock bolts into place. fit distance/spacer tube into mounting bracket; (fig 5.5)

(fig 5.5) at this point fit assembly into AK chassis, lift into place with hydraulic jack and secure using four bolts removed during stripdown, these are wire locked into place after full rear suspension system is installed but before the bodyshell is put on as access is difficult afterward. Installation of the wishbone can now be done after first assembling the pivot bearing assembly into it; (fig 5.6)

(fig 5.6) the wishbone mates to the inner pivot mounting bracket using pivot shafts and differential to chassis mounting bracket ( AK supplied part; figs 5.4 / 5.7) you may have to loosen the four bolts at top mounting of differential as some adjustment to align everything is in order to allow the pivot shaft to pass through, secure into place with nyloc self locking nuts re-tighten differential top mounting four bolts and wirelock into place.

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(fig 5.7)

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Camber shims (which have been saved from stripping rear suspension) will now need to be inserted between the outside face of the brake disc before fitting the driveshafts and driveshafts secured to the disc/differential output flange mounting bolts with new nyloc self locking nuts. Hub carrier assembly can now be put into position on wishbone outer pivot using nyloc self locking nuts on outer pivot shaft, hub carrier assembly can be pivoted upward and splined yoke from drive shaft inserted, torque driveshaft locknut to the specified torque. Jaguar rear suspension has a pressed steel radius arm from the wishbone near the outer pivot to the floor pan to control movement front to rear, on the AK the set-ups front to rear movement is controlled with a tubular radius arm with rubber bush attachment to the wishbone and a jaguar track rod end (note: imperial thread not metric) on threaded adjustment attaches forward to the chassis (fig 5.8).

(fig 5.8) use special bolt and lock washer kept from strip down to fasten rubber bush end to wishbone, secure ball joint with nyloc lock nut. Do not attach ball joint end to chassis just yet. Next fit a pair of assembled coil-over shocks to each side of the suspension assembly insert pivot shaft through shock lower mounting and wishbone securing both sides with appropriate washer and nyloc lock nuts, support wishbone assembly with hydraulic jack to attach shock upper mounting to chassis, once again insert pivot shaft and secure with appropriate washers and nyloc lock nuts, ( NOTE: fit coil over shock so the adjusting screws are accessible when vehicle is on road wheels, facing toward differential or front and rear of vehicle respectively, this is to enable adjustment of shock absorbers)

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Finally the radius arm track rod end can be adjusted to align with mating hole in chassis also Remembering to fit locknut to the track rod end, secure ball joint to chassis using washer and nyloc lock nut. SUSPENSION SETUP INFORMATION The adjustment of the Jaguar suspension as used on the AK 427 is enabled by the use of metal shims, the process is referred to in the jaguar workshop manual, the instructions as to set-up as Contained in this section are specific to your AK 427 All adjustments/settings to the front and rear suspension are to be carried out with the chassis Completely levelled fore and aft and side to side. In order to make the adjustments the coil over shock absorbers are not in place/removed if they have been fitted and in the case of the rear suspension the radius arm is not place/ remove if fit-ted. A template for a gauge to assist in set-up is available from AK. REAR SUSPENSION SETTING/ADJUSTMENT To set the camber on the rear suspension you will need to raise the rear hub carrier with the aid of a hydraulic jack (shocks and radius arm removed) , lay a straight edge along the top surface of the chassis were the roll bar attachment points are, raise hub carrier and using a ruler / mea -sure the distance between the top of the hub carrier and the upper surface this needs to be 150mm. (fig 5.9)

(fig 5.9)

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raise or lower the hub carrier until this is achieved. Place a spirit level or the gauge against the face of the hub, (fig 5.10) at the correct setting this needs to be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative camber, to adjust this measurement shims need to be inserted between the the drive-shaft flange and the brake disc/diff output flange, using two nuts on the bolts which hold the driveshaft to the disc / diff output flange screw these down on the threads pulling driveshaft closer to the disc until the desired measurement is achieved at the hub face,

(fig 5.10) the gauge needs to be reading 0 degrees (zero) or ¼ degrees negative camber, there should now be a gap between driveshaft flange and disc in which shims can be inserted to assess the required amount, it is advisable to add one extra to account for compression of shims when nuts are fully tightened, with the required amount of shims determined remove nuts pull away driveshaft place shims against disc face refit driveshaft and fully tighten nyloc lock nuts, recheck hub face measurement for 0 (zero) to ¼ negative camber , refit coil overshocks and radius arm , repeat procedure for other side. FRONT SUSPENSION SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT CAMBER Camber to the front suspension is already built into the AK427 chassis, however check this once full assembly is in place (minus the coil over shocks) by use of the gauge or spirit level on the hub face as per rear suspension, the setting should be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative camber, if any adjustment is required this is done by inserting dependant on donor vehicle, 3 to 4 shims of

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the correct thickness between the upper wishbone pivot/fulcrum shaft and the wishbone attach-ment point on the AK427 chassis. SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT CASTOR To set the castor angle to the front suspension is accomplished with the use of shims between the mating faces of the top balljoint and the upper wishbone with track rod ends removed, raise the wishbones with hydraulic jack so they run level/horizontal slightly lower than level, (fig 5.11)

(fig 5.11) Turn hub carrier /disc assembly so it runs parallel to the chassis, (fig 5.12)

(fig 5.12) place the gauge against the straight edge of the two caliper mounting points on the hub carrier assembly, with the gauge in place 3 to 4 shims will need to be inserted at the top balljoint/ wish-bone mating face to achieve a castor angle of 5 ½ to 6 degrees of castor. (fig 5.14)

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(fig 5.14) repeat process for the other side, re-attach track rod ends and locknuts ensuring equal thread both sides, toe in can be adjusted temporarily at this stage by raising wishbones hub assembly as before until both sides are level/horizontal and adjusting track rod ends equally until both disc/hub assemblies run straight ahead. AK usually set toe in at 4 mm or parallel, use of a string line between the rear of the disc over to the rear of the other disc, then checking with same string line at the front of the discs until an equal measurement is achieved. Tighten locknuts and lower suspension. Once wheels are fitted and the car is sitting on terra firma check all nuts and tighten to specified torque settings as stated in the workshop manual.

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BRAKE LINES/HOSES INFORMATION. Reference to the workshop manual is essential when reconditioning all brake components, if in any doubt consult qualified specialist help. At AK we use and recommend the use of new and reconditioned brake components, DO NOT just use the brake components as they came off the donor, considerable wear will almost definitely have been incurred. PARTS REQUIRED. Dual circuit master cylinder/servo (marina) Ventilated front discs (jaguar) Solid rear discs (jaguar) Brake calipers (jaguar) Brake pipe 3/16 copper approx 6 metres Goodrich braided front hoses (AK supply part) Brake unions male/female 3 way connector brake unions x2 The brake lines run along the inner face of the in board offside chassis rail that runs front to rear to the rear calipers and across the inner face of the front lower side to side chassis rail for the front calipers (fig 5.15/16/17) Attachment to the chassis is enabled with rubber lined p-clips or plastic push in clips, these must be evenly spaced and not more than twelve inches/ 300 mm apart, SVA requirement. (REFER TO SVA MANUAL FOR ANY CHANGES AND INFORMATION).

DUE TO THE PERFORMANCE CAPABILITY OF YOUR AK IT IS ESSENTIALTHE BRAKING SYSTEM IS ABLE TO FULFILL THE TASK AND THE DEMANDS MADE OF IT.

METRIC AND IMPERIAL BRAKE COMPONENTS/UNIONS WERE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JAGUAR CARS, SERIES ONE AND EARLY SERIES TWO CARS WERE UNF, LATER CARS USED METRIC,DO NOT INTERCHANGE IMPERIAL AND METRIC UNIONS.

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Use the correct pipe-bending tool and cutting and flaring tool. Using a piece of string to measure approximate length of brake pipe needed cut to length remembering to file away any burrs, Place appropriate fitting/union over brake pipe and make appropriate flare dependant on fitting type. When bending pipe using correct tool take care to form bends of an even radius DO NOT KINK, DISCARD IF KINKED. If template was made of engine bay chassis rails as suggested in chassis support/preparation the next stage is made a lot easier. FITTING BRAKE LINES. Starting at the offside chassis rail Fit 3 way union to inner face of chassis rail just below the bracket for brake hose to front caliper from the left fitting of 3-way connector run brake pipe from this along front chassis rail inner face and up to bracket/brake hose attachment point on nearside of chassis, run brake pipe from top opening of 3-way connector to bracket/brake hose fitting above on offside chassis rail, further run third brake pipe from right opening on 3-way connector around chassis rail along top of triangulated chassis rail upper surface for approx 6 inches and form a bend upwards for further attachment later after body shell is fitted. (fig 5.15)

(fig 5.15) Next : looking toward the rear of the chassis from the front to the top face of the rear chassis rail on left side of cut out for differential to propshaft fit the second 3-way connector with it`s top opening toward the differential casing and side openings parallel to the chassis rail, from top opening run pipe up to left caliper (still looking toward rear of chassis) from right hand opening run pipe along top of chassis rail bend pipe following half moon cut out, once back on the top face of chassis rail and in line with fitting on right caliper bend pipe up to caliper. (fig 5.16) from the left hand opening pipe follows along top of rail then forward down to the inner face of offside chassis rail toward front of chassis rising on to top of rail in engine bay area of chassis and as per front fitting along triangulated chassis rail and upward ready to connect to master cylinder after fitment of body

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(fig 5.16)

(fig 5.17)

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DO NOT run brake lines under chassis rail so as to prevent damage in the event of the vehicle grounding out ie: sleeping policeman FUEL TANK INFORMATION AK can supply a stainless steel fuel tank complete with sender unit to the correct dimensions, however if you wish to undertake the fabrication of your own tank AK will provide the relevant dimensions. If fabricating your own tank note position of attachment points to chassis FITTING The AK fuel tank is mounted to the underside of the rear chassis frame, there are five attach-ment points for the fuel tank mounting, lift into place with hydraulic jack or a friend use nyloc lock nuts to secure to frame (fig 5.18)

(fig 5.18)

:IMPORTANT: WHEN BRAKING SYSTEM IS FULLY INSTALLED IT MUST BE TESTED FOR LEAKS AT ALL CONNECTIONS WHILST APPLYING FULL PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL.

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FUEL PUMP AND FUEL LINES INFORMATION Dependant on fuel system ie: carburettor or fuel injection type of pump and were to mount will need to be taken into account. With fuel injected systems it is important to mount the fuel pump as near to the fuel tank as possible and to use a high pressure fuel filter, preferably the one that came with fuel injection system, high pressure fuel hose will be required as the pressure from the pump will be 60 psi on average, normal fuel hose is not rated at this pressure, use hose specific to fuel injection. For ROVER V8 engines, which use an electric pump this is usually mounted to the nearside inner chassis rail between the cut out in the rail and the backbone brace, the fuel line runs along the INNER FACE of this chassis rail also (NOT UNDERNEATH ) (fig’s 5.17 /19)

(fig 5.19) FORD V8 usually use mechanical fuel pumps the fuel lines for this runs up the inner nearside chassis rail as per Rover V8 but the fuel line continues further along the rail closer to were the pump will be on the engine. (fig’s 5.17 /19) CHEVEROLET V8 usually uses mechanical fuel pump also its fuel lines will need to run along the inner face of the offside inner chassis rail (fig 5.17) At the rear of the chassis the fuel pipe passes over the chassis rail (fig 5.20) and then under the differential before being fitted with a fuel filter before entering the fuel tank outlet.

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(fig 5.20) A protective plate will net to be fitted to the underside of the differential to protect the fuel line in the event of the vehicle grounding.

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CHAPTER SIX ENGINE/GEARBOX/EXHAUST/PROPSHAFT GENERAL INFORMATION. Your chassis is now ready to accept the installation of your choice of engine and gearbox, although it is possible to fit said items once the bodyshell has been introduced to the chassis, it is preferable to install the engine and gearbox now, which in turn eases the installation of all of the necessary ancillary components, when ordering your chassis you will have specified engine and gearbox choice, the chassis will have the necessary mounting points, however the original mounts/hardware from whichever engine and gearbox you have chosen will be required, as will the various ancillary components ie: starter motor / alternator. FITTING Installation can be undertaken with the engine/gearbox attached or separately, in either case it is wise to invest in the hire of an engine hoist/cherry picker for this operation, it is not safe or healthy to try this operation using manual labour. If the gearbox is already filled with oil fit something over the output shaft to stop oil leaking all over your garage/workshop floor, as the engine/gearbox need to tilt toward the rear to go in. Care should be taken when lower engine/gearbox combination into chassis, check for clearance and be careful not to scratch paintwork once engine mounts are aligned, support rear of gearbox with a block of wood or hydraulic jack whilst fitting the gearbox mounting and tightening bolts (tighten to torque settings specified in owners workshop manual for engine and gearbox of your choice). Install the starter motor and the alternator ready for the next stage as you will need to check clearances for the headers/ exhaust manifolds. EXHAUST Consideration as to the exhaust system should also be made at this point, ie: underfloor system or sidepipes and the headers / exhaust manifold, original or fabricated by your self or an after-market supplier, AK can fabricate these items for you.

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UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM. If fabricating your own headers/manifolds or using aftermarket fabrication company, In order to ascertain the clearance for headers/exhaust manifolds/system you will need to place bodyshell onto chassis after installation of the engine to take measurements, remove bodyshell to fabricate the Header/manifolds SIDEPIPES As with underfloor system (above) but as well as clearance in the engine bay you will also need to determine the exit points in the bodyshell for the sidepipes and cut out the required bodywork. PROPSHAFT If using any of the various American gearboxes you will need to retain and use the complete sliding yoke assembly from the gearbox, which will then need to be fitted to the Jaguar propshaft. If using the rover gearbox you can use the Rover or Jaguar propshaft. Whichever you chose, in all cases the propshaft will require shortening and the required output shaft fitting, this job is best suited to your local propshaft specialist who will also balance your newly shortened propshaft and refurbish any worn Ujs.

:IMPORTANT NOTE: CLEARANCE OF STEERING COLUMN EXTENSION / FOOTWELLS AND STARTER MOTOR SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN ASSESSING THE MEASUREMENT AND INSTALLATION OF EXHAUST HEADERS/SYSTEM

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CHAPTER SEVEN. COOLING SYSTEM. INFORMATION. The cooling system incorporates a crossflow radiator (Rover SD1) a header tank which is uses a pressurised cap and the system should have a thermostat with which to control the temperature at the same to as allowing the engine to reach its optimum operating temperature . The coolant circulation is from a pulley driven impeller at the front of the engine driven by the crankshaft pulley . The cooling system is fitted to the chassis prior to the introduction of the bodyshell , dependant on your engine choice positioning/sizes of the various hoses will vary but some parts remain common to all installations . Remember to use anti-freeze in the cooling system as this inhibits corrosion as well as providing frost protection . PARTS REQUIRED …… Top and bottom radiator frame ( AK supplied as part of build ) Radiator (Rover SD1 , to 3 row core No BTP 1019 if using large capacity V8 ) Header tank (AK can supply a stainless steel one) Cooling fan/s Adjustable thermostatic switch Temperature sender and thermostat (specific to engine) Hoses ( main top and bottom hoses and heater hoses ) Hose clips various sizes. Plastic quik fit mounting kit for fans to radiator ( or fabricate own bracketry ) FITTING Introduce the lower radiator frame to lower mounting at front of main chassis rails, use the 4 attachment bolts supplied, 2 each side to fasten frame into place. Bring upper radiator frame into place and using supplied bolts also attach to the mounting points on chassis located top surface of cross box section at front of chassis. fig 7.1. At this point bring radiator into place using locating pegs at the bottom of the radiator place the original radiator rubber mounts (or rubber washers) onto the locating pegs and locate pegs into holes in lower radiator frame. Now attach the upper frame to top of radiator using bolts through the upper frame into original mounting holes at top of radiator.

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(fig 7.1) HEADER TANK Header tank is mounted onto the same box section as the upper radiator frame , after first placing strips of masking tape along top rail position header tank on top of rail and mark the attachment holes onto the masking tape , drill and tap these holes remove the tape and replace header tank and bolt into place . RADIATOR FAN/s Choice of fan/s used is up to the customer and specific to there engine needs , ensure adequate cooling is provided for your engine , either two 10 inch fans or one 16 inch usually will suffice bracketry can be fabricated by the customer or the use of plastic quik fit mounts are a reliable and trusted method , take care not to damage the core when mounting fans to the radiator . THERMOSTATIC SWITCH Usually supplied with its own fitting instructions , the capillary that senses the water temperature needs to be placed into the top radiator hose were it fits to the top radiator inlet, the capillary connecting tube should then be coiled (helps absorb vibration) the length of this determines the placement of the adjustable thermostatic switch, Ak `s method is to use a stainless steel plate across the upper radiator mounting frame and then fit the adjustable thermostatic switch into this.

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HOSES Finally fit the coolant hose top and bottom check for fouling on any moving part, ensure all hose clips are fastened securely , leave extra length on heater hoses until after body is fitted and these can then be trimmed and attached to the heater inlet and outlets, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around heater outlets before attaching hoses enabling a greater seal. Once all is fully connected fill with water and antifreeze and check for any leaks and once you are able to run the engine and the wiring to the electric fans is connected and working check for airlocks , run engine up to temperature and adjust thermostatic switch until fans switch on.

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CHAPTER EIGHT. BODYSHELL/FITTING INFORMATION. The AK body is supplied with the cockpit (seat tub) / boot tub/ front & rear wheel arches bonded into the shell as an integral part of the whole assembly, doors and bonnet are pre-fitted and the bonnet and boot lid and doors all are double skinned, a scuttle hoop is mounted within the seat tub and spans across the seat tub under the dashboard it is bonded into place and once the body shell is fitted it is through bolted onto chassis. Most customers will have had the body/chassis sent to the paint shop of there choice prior to building, if this is the case it is preferable for all holes to have been cut in the body for the ancillary parts beforehand. If body was supplied in gel coat (coloured) finish the preparation will require the removal of the body mould flash lines and many hours of rubbing down and polishing, it is preferable to cut all body ancillary holes before embarking on this task. PREPARATION Some preparation of the body is required prior to fitting to the rolling chassis, an access hole for the fuel filler inlet and sender unit will need to be cut (fig 8.1), the fitting of the pedal box and heater box is also a necessity (referred to in there specific chapters). A trial fit is always recommended to check for clearance as the body once finally attached with a flexible sealant is difficult and messy to remove, also making sure there will be no trapped fuel/brake lines, the gearshift hole can be marked and cut and dependant on were the fuel pump is mounted (if it is across the rear chassis rails behind the differential) partial removal of some of the boot floor forward of tank will also be required). Cover inlet to fuel tank to prevent any ingress of dirt and/or dust Removal of the bonnet is beneficial before body fitment and will need to be done ,also enlisting the assistance of 3 to 4 helpers will aid and ease the task.

IMPORTANT NOTE THE BODY SHELL IS HEAVY AND FOR SAFETY REASONS AND TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY IT IS NECESSARY TO ENSURE THERE ARE ENOUGH BODIES TO LIFT AND MANOUVER THE BODY SHALL INTO POSITION

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(fig 8.1) FITTING BODY Once you are satisfied with the preparation of the body and ensured all access holes are cut and the required parts attached (pedal box / heater) and having undergone a trial fit to establish clearance, you can now fit the body to the chassis. It is necessary to run a bead of sealant along the chassis rails were the seat tub sits and also across chassis cross member were roll bar and seat belt brackets attach and around fuel tank support rails, first clean the chassis were sealant is to be laid then run a ½ inch bead of sealant along chassis rails as seen in diagram, (fig 8.2). With the aid of helpers lift body over chassis and making sure inner front wings clear the front supports lower front of chassis over them, once cleared lower rear of body onto chassis (as the body was originally pre-fitted at the AK factory it has already been aligned with the chassis) it should just sit in place as body can only fit into previously pre-fitted position, if it fails to seat completely on chassis check for obstructions (why a trial fit is necessary). Once in firmly seated onto chassis the attachment bolts supplied with your kit can be used to bolt the body into place, several of the attachment points in the seat tub are threaded for bolts provided. (fig 8.3) The scuttle hoop however bolted right through chassis rail through its attachment footplate with the 4 supplied nuts & bolts, 2 each side. (fig 8.3) The front inner wings to the support brackets use 4 nuts & bolts supplied, 2 each side. Rear of chassis is bolted through boot floor with 2 supplied nuts & bolts. (fig 8.4) Refitting of the bonnet can now take place, and if required the front support attachments loosened to aid adjustment once done tighten down fully.

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(fig 8.2)

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( fig 8.3)

( fig 8.4)

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FITTING OUT THE BODY ROLL BAR and SEAT BELT BRACKETS INFORMATION The seatbelt and roll bar brackets supplied with your kit are supplied in 3 or 4 parts depending on your choice of roll bar whether it be single hoop drivers side/ twin hoops both sides or full width hoop variety. The brackets are attached to the chassis in the boot tub sandwiching the fibreglass body between them and the chassis, there function as the top seat belt mount determines that they are attached and constructed to a safety standard and it is important to bolt them in place securely using nyloc locking nuts. PARTS REQUIRED Seat belt/roll bar brackets (left and right side) Roll bar support bracket Nuts and bolts

( fig 8.5) FITTING The holes for affixing the brackets in place in the boot tub are pre-drilled at AK but may still need opening out slightly to enable easy insertion of the bolts, the seatbelt/roll bar brackets are sided and are positioned in the boot with the roll bar support tube outermost when looking into the boot, (fig 8.5 /6).

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First fit will be temporary as you need to mark and make the holes for the seatbelt attachment eyebolt to attach to, the hole is made under the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub, to do this place the right hand seat belt bracket in place on the raised platform in the boot, insert the bolts through the brackets base plate and the fibreglass skin into the chassis below, from underneath the vehicle put on at least two of the nuts and tighten so as to hold bracket in place whilst marking the positions of the seatbelt eyelet bolts.

( fig 8.6) Using the bracket as the template and using a marker pen draw around the top of it onto the rear boot wall (cockpit rear wall), at the top of the bracket is the pre drilled and threaded attachment plate for the eyebolt, you need to mark were this is and approximate were to make the hole, (fig 8.7) Remove the bracket and if you drill a hole in the rear wall through to the cockpit just under the scuttle lip it will give you and approximation of were to make the hole for the seat belt under the scuttle lip, drill the hole under the scuttle lip with a small drill bit to see if it is in line with the attachment plate on top of the bracket, if it is drill large hole and open out with a file until the eyebolt can be inserted and screwed into the bracket, once this has been achieved the seatbelt/roll bar bracket can be bolted down fully onto the chassis.

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( fig 8.7) Repeat for the passenger side. The roll bar support bracket is a simple matter of bolting into place after checking the alignment of the chassis mounting holes through the fibreglass skin. (fig 8.5 /6) ROLL BAR/s INFORMATION The roll bar for the AK is made of stainless steel tube bent to form a hoop, were as this was a support and safety feature in the original, for our purposes the roll bar is purely cosmetic, one or two roll bars can be fitted as is your preference. FITTING HOLES FOR ROLL BAR ARE NOW PRE-CUT AT THE FACTORY FOR ALL NEW KITS. This following applies to older kits only (find the approximate centre of were the roll bar passes through the body into the boot and fits into the roll bar supports, to do this follow a vertical line straight up from the centre of the roll bar support bracket to the underside of the body and drill a small hole, then gradually open the hole out with a round file until the roll bar can be inserted and locates with the roll bar support brackets, take your time and open out the holes for the roll bar to pass through as this task will be done by eye and self judgement). The roll bar will need some of its length removing to obtain the correct height (using centre line thru roll bar measure approximately 10 ½ to 11 inches from top of the body to the top of the roll bar). Before final fitting of roll bar, slide the escutcheons over the bar refit the roll bar and slide the escutcheons down onto the body, mark and drill holes to fit escutcheons to the body, a small amount of sealant underneath will prevent water ingress.

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WINDSCREEN INFORMATION The windscreen is purchased as a complete assembly, furnished with glass pre-fitted to the frame and held in place by a rubber seal, support legs are to be found at either side of the wind-screen with which to attach it to the vehicle, there is also a rubber seal along the bottom edge of the windscreen were the frame makes contact with the body, the windscreen is fitted to the scuttle and is supported/attached by the support legs through holes in the body to the scuttle hoop. When the windscreen is fitted it is done so with a pre determined rake, this is achieved by measuring and cutting a piece of timber (2x1”) and 36 inches long and placing between rear of screen top frame and the centre of the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub. PARTS REQUIRED Windscreen Support stays x2 Escutcheons x2 Bolts x4 Sealant FITTING Usually best performed with the aid of a helper as the windscreen is heavy and awkward (avoid damage to paint/bodywork) The rubber seal at the base of the screen will be such that the lip is facing forward of the wind-screen. In order to create a tighter more waterproof seal between windscreen and body it is advisable to reverse this seal so it faces rearwards, then bend forwards as screen is lowered into position (fig 8.9) this will hopefully negate the use of any sealant under the rubber seal. This is best done before the windscreen support stays are fitted to the windscreen, if they have not been fitted already. With the rubber seal reversed and the support stays fitted to windscreen it can be lowered into place on the scuttle forward of the cockpit/seat tub, the two support stays are inserted through the holes pre-cut at AK, as screen is lowered pull rubber seal forwards toward front of vehicle and as windscreen weight is lowered onto seal it will stay facing forward providing a tighter seal.

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( fig 8.8) Once the screen is in place put the piece of timber cut to 36 inches length between top wind-screen frame and scuttle lip at rear of cockpit, using G clamps or similar clamp support legs to scuttle frame under dashboard scuttle. (fig 8.8 /8.10) Once positioned with the correct rake adjustment and securely clamped to the scuttle hoop, now drill two holes through support stays into scuttle frame (cut thread with a tap in the scuttle frame holes to accept bolts),

( fig 8.9)

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(fig 8.10) Bolt the windscreen into place and remove piece of timber used for measuring windscreen rake and G clamps, the screws attaching windscreen to support stays can be removed now and windscreen removed from between stays to allow the escutcheon plates to be pushed down the support stays to cover the body holes were support stays pass through, it is advisable to put some sealant in the support stay hole before fixing escutcheon into place to prevent the ingress of water at this point, re-attach windscreen remembering to pull rubber seal at base of windscreen forward as it meets up with body.

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DOORS INFORMATION The doors on the AK are double skinned and pre-fitted by AK at the factory, they are hung on two hinges which are attached to the scuttle hoop, two bolts to each hinge fasten to the inner door skin and allow some adjustment. the mounting plate for the door locks is already incorp-orated inside the door skin for the door locks. Some gapping of the doors may be required achieved by filing the door edge to achieve an even gap. DOOR LOCKS INFORMATION The door locks used on your AK are required to comply with the regulations set out in the SVA manual, the locks will have an anti burst double latch incorporated in there action as a safety measure to avoid the door coming open without proper operation of the lever. The lock usually used for your AK has these requirements as well as maintaining a classis appearance preferable for your cobra, the door locking system comes in to parts comprising of the door lock and the latch/striker. Locks fit to the inner door skin were a strengthened mounting plate is already sandwiched into the inner skin to attach lock too. The latch/striker attaches to the door frame upright and is attached to a mounting bracket/plate supplied with your kit from AK, there is a small cut out were the latch/striker is to be positioned. PARTS REQUIRED…. Door locks x2 Door latch/striker x2 Latch/striker plate x2 (AK supplied) Timber (for packing out around door frame and support of latch/striker plate) P38 plastic filler/resin FITTING In order to correctly ascertain the position for the door latch it is necessary to decide on door panels and if the lock will sit on the door panel or in a cut-out so the lock sits directly onto the door skin (this will determine were the latch/striker needs to be positioned relative to the lock).

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If the door lock is to sit on the door panel (AK preference) then a spacer or the door panel will need to be used to position lock onto the door remembering that the thickness of the panel will be plywood panel the padding and the leather covering, this will determine the thickness of the spacer if not using the covered door panel as the spacer.

(fig 8.11) Before commencing you will need to remove the escutcheon/cover from the door lock to reveal the four countersunk mounting holes of the lock. With the spacer/door panel fitted to the door, tape the door into its shut position with some masking tape, temporarily fit the latch/striker to its mounting plate then fit latch/striker into the door lock, offer both up to the door with the door in its closed position, the latch/striker has a cut-out in the door frame were it is positioned and the holes for the lock are pre-cut and threaded, (8.11). Once satisfied with the positioning of the lock and latch, mark through the four holes of the lock through the panel/spacer, remove the lock assembly and latch, drill holes through door panel /spacer in line with the pre-drilled door lock holes Replace door panel and fit lock assembly to the door.

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With the door lock now attached bring door into closed position once again to position the latch, with the latch in position in the lock (ensure it is fully engaged) attach the latch mounting plate to the latch and door frame, once satisfied with its position fix into place using p38 and leave to set. Whilst the p38 sets you will now need to cut the timber to act as support for the latch mounting plate and also for supports for the inner cockpit panel (fig 8.12).

( fig 8.12) The wooden supports once cut to shape (ensuring a tight fit behind the door latch plate) can be secured into position with p38 also, allow the p38 to cure before attempting to open/close the door. SCREEN WASHERS INFORMATION The screen wash system in your AK is operated by the wiper/washer stalk on the right of the steering column, the system comprises of a washer fluid/container to hold the water a 12-volt pump/motor and two washer jets, the pump/motor is mounted to your washer fluid container it

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is part of SVA regulations and compulsory in the UK that a windscreen washer system is fitted and working to your vehicle, the washer jets also need to comply with the regulations re: there curvature and height, the fluid container as to its capacity ie: minimum of 1 litre. PARTS REQUIRED Washer bottle/container (AK can supply a stainless steel item if required) Washer jets x 2 In line non-return valve Windscreen washer tubing T-piece FITTING After deciding on were you want to mount your washer fluid container (AK fit there`s to the passenger foot well that runs into the transmission tunnel, (fig 8.12) this also provides as point were the wiring can pass through the bulkhead to provided the 12 volt current to the motor/ pump ) fit container securely to position fit washer motor/pump to container.

( fig 8.12) Position and drill holes for washer jets, take a centre line up the bonnet to the windscreen and measure out (7 inches 180mm) in either direction, once washer jets are fitted cut and fit tubing remembering to use t-piece to split to the two washer jets and non return valve, to assist in fitting tubing over connections heat the ends in some hot water. Test system once the wiring is connected.

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BOOT LID A trial fit of the boot lid is necessary to adjust for an even gap all around, (fit the d-section rubber to the boot lid opening first and ensure that the boot sits level with the bodywork) you may need to file down the lip to achieve this. To gap the boot lid evenly all around file down the edge until this is achieved. BOOT HINGES You will note that on the underside of the boot lid there are two flat areas were the boot hinges are positioned, transfer an approximate centre line from these to the outer/upper surface of the boot lid, then mark on the outer/upper surface of the boot lid the centre line of the boot and then measure an equal distance from the line to the approximate hinge positions transferred originally to the boot lid surface, now with the hinge positions marked an equal distance from the centre line (9 inches- 230mm),(fig 8.14) you can position and fit the hinges, mask off the area with tape, and it is usually better to fit the hinge to the scuttle first then the boot lid.

( fig 8.14) BOOT LOCK Using the centre line of the boot lid you will need to drill a ¾ inch hole in the outer skin for the handle boss to pass through (you can use the lock gasket to mark this out) place masking tape over the area to mark the position and before drilling, also a ½ inch hole in the inner skin for the square shaft to pass through. (fig 8.15).

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There are small locating tabs in the escutceon/baseplate of lock which will require small notches to be cut/filed into the lock hole you cut, this helps to locate the lock into position.

( fig 8.15) To ascertain the position up the centre line for the hole, trial fit the lock assembly to the access hole in the boot lid, (the access hole may need opening out/modification) ensure the square hole in the lock for the shaft to pass through is in line with the centre line of the boot lid, which will then line up with the holes for the boot handle square shaft. Once positioned correctly and lock and handle holes drill holes for fixing screws and fix into place, remember to refit the gasket to the boot handle.

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BONNET The bonnet on your AK has been pre-fitted originally at the factory, however you will have removed it during the build, replacement is just a reversal of the removal procedure but you will need to before fitting the d-section rubber seal to the bonnet opening file or cut down the lip that the seal attaches to, trial and guesswork will be required to gauge the correct height that will allow the bonnet to sit level with the bodywork. BONNET LOCK As with the boot lid the bonnet has two flat areas on its underside were the bonnet locks are positioned, you will need to mark out the centre line on the bonnet and measure an equal distance to the position for both bonnet locks (as with the boot lock you can use the lock gasket to mark out the holes for the locks) make the holes for the boss and square shaft of the bonnet lock to pass through, (place masking tape over the area to mark and before drilling) (fig 8.16)

( fig 8.16) Open the holes out gradually until lock fits (lock is positioned so the escutcheon/baseplate runs across the bonnet from side to side), there are small locating tabs in the escutceon/baseplate of lock which will require small notches to be cut/filed into the lock holes you cut, this helps to locate the lock into position. Drill holes for fixing screws and remembering to refit the gasket, fix lock into position.

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From the under side of the bonnet you will need to fit the locking catches to the square shafts of the bonnet locks (these are locked in place with small allen screws) (fig 8.16) The square shaft will need shortening once the latch position has been found. In order for the locks to full engage securely it will be necessary to fit locking plates (fabricate with some stainless steel) these bolted to the bulkhead under the scuttle in the engine bay and provide a stronger closure/attachment for the lock. (fig 8.17).

( fig 8.17) FUEL FILLER The driver’s side rear wing has a recess for the petrol filler (this allows AK/s to comply with SVA regulations even with the flip top Aston filler cap). PARTS REQUIRED Fuel filler cap and flange (Aston quick release type) Fuel hose (wire reinforced type) Breather tube/hose Hose clips

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FITTING Offer up the gasket from the fuel filler cap to the recess in the drivers side wing, centralise the gasket the mark the inner circumference with a marker pen, if you have a hole saw large enough this can be used, alternatively drill several pilot holes inside the circumference line previously marked, using a saw cut between the holes inside of the line, using a half round file open up the hole to the line, offer up the fuel filler to check for clearance, once filler inserts into hole the filler can be fitted to the recess after marking and drilling the fixing holes using the filler flange as the template for the fixing holes.

(fig 8.18)

:NOTE: IF USING THE ASTON FILLER CAP ENSURE IT IS FULLY SCREWED DOWN ONTO THE THREADED FLANGE BEFORE FITTING, IT HAS TO BE POSITIONED AT AN ANGLE FACING OUTWARD AND TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE: SEE DIAGRAM.

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Before drilling the fixing holes in the recess first screw the Aston filler cap tightly down onto the threaded flange so the cap can be positioned correctly into the recess in relation to the rear wing (the cap won’t open fully if positioned incorrectly) (fig 8.19).

(fig 8.19) The wire reinforced fuel filler hose needs to pass through the boot/wheel arch wall (drivers side rear) from the boot space into the wheel arch were it connects to the filler flange under the wing using hose clip (ensure hose clip is fully tight). (fig 8.18). Repeat with the fuel tank neck fit wire reinforced fuel hose and attach with hose clip, the smaller vent pipe is a breather fit smaller bore hose and pass through hole in boot wall to wheel arch with the fuel filler hose and fix it to it with a cable tie. LIGHTS The AK 427 light positions are moulded into the body shell except for side repeater/indicators and rear fog lamp, it is mandatory for any motor vehicle used on the public highway to be fitted with the appropriate lighting. To comply with SVA regulations lighting has to be E-marked and also positioned at a specific height on the vehicle and have minimum angles of visibility. As most of the lighting positions are moulded into the body shell the position requirement is adhered to, all is necessary is that you purchase the correct E-marked lighting. Below is a list of the compulsory lighting required for a motor vehicle to comply with SVA regulations.

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Front position side lamps x2 Dipped beam headlight x2 Main beam headlight x2 Direction indicators x4 Hazard warning signal lamps (as above: indicator lamps) Rear position tail lamp x2 Stop lamp x2 Side repeater lamp x2 Rear registration plate lamp x1 Rear fog light x1 Rear retro reflectors. x2

As can be seen from the list the main lighting positions are moulded on the body shell, the builder needs to be aware that the rear indicators are positioned above the brake/sidelights and side repeaters just above and in front of the side vent in the front wings. The fog lamp can normally be positioned on the rear valance under the boot lid, the reflectors on the body shell just under the rear stop lights or can be incorporated into the rear nudge bar. (fig 8.20)

( fig 8.20) The body mouldings are a guide as to the light fitting, the individual lights should be used to mark out the precise position, drill pilot holes and open out with a file accordingly trial fitting the lights as you enlarge the hole.

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OVERRIDERS/NUDGEBARS INFORMATION Mounting brackets are supplied to fit the front overrider`s to the chassis, New type fits directly to front inner wings. Older type the brackets attach to the chassis mounting either side of the radiator ,when positioned they angle downwards from the chassis, the rear mounting points are in the boot just inside the boot shut to the left and right metal brackets have been fibreglassed into the boot floor this is also the case under the boot floor behind the rear valance. The overrider’s use threaded stud to fix to the mounting bracket (most builders fit stainless steel or chromed tubing over this as a sleeve for the cosmetic appearance). The builder can choose to just fit overrider`s or fit overrider`s and nudge bar. If fitting both they will need to be drilled and bolted together and the threaded stud fitted to the overrider`s (make sure this is of sufficient length to reach the mounting brackets through the body. PARTS REQUIRED Overrider’s x4 Nudgebars x2 front and rear Threaded stud x2 36 inches long Stainless steel or chrome tube to sleeve over the stud Nuts and washers for threaded stud FITTING First temporarily fit the overrider brackets to the chassis (they will need holes drilling in them to accept the overrider studding). Cover the area either side of the grill/radiator opening with masking tape, with the stud and sleeve fitted to the overrider`s, offer up to the body so as to mark holes onto the masking tape were the sleeved stud will need to pass through this is achieved with trial and judgement (there are no fixed points to measure). Were the holes need to be made for the sleeved stud to pass through bodyshell you will find due to the contour of the body this dictates holes will not be a perfect circle, but slightly oval, drill a pilot hole and gradually open out with a round file continually offering up the overriders nudge bars until the desired size and position is achieved. Once the sleeved stud can pass through the bodyshell push in until the stud touches the mounting brackets, keep checking alignment and mark on the brackets were the stud touches and then remove overriders/nudgebar and also the mounting brackets, drill the required holes into the brackets for the threaded stud, refit and once again offer up the overriders/nudgebar. NEW STYLE BRACKET post August 2002 Bolts directly to inner wings and consist of just the 90-degree angle steel. see (fig 8.21).

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You can now bolt it into position, (nuts will need to be used both sides of the stud/bracket to clamp assembly securely). (fig 8.21)

( fig 8.21) SVA RADIATOR APERTURE DEFLECTOR As a requirement of SVA regulations the front opening to the radiator is fitted with a deflector wing/bar to prevent injury to persons in the event of an accident, it is a requirement that the aperture is not large enough to allow the SVA testers knee form sphere to pass through, the AK deflector when positioned in the centre of the opening prevents this and also complies with the SVA regulation. FITTING Brackets will need to be fabricated to attach the wing/deflector to the overider brackets or an alternative is to use 90-degree angle brackets and attach/fix the deflector to the inner wings using bolts or rivets through the deflector and the inner wings, (fig 8.22).

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( fig 8.22) SEATBELTS The seatbelts for the AK are the 3 point harness variety , and are attached to the chassis rails were they meet the floor toward the rear in the seat tub for the lower attachments, the upper attachment is under the scuttle to the previously fitted eyebolt. (fig 8.7 / 8.23)

:IMPORTANT: THE CORRECT FITTING OF SEATBELTS MUST BE ADHERED TO, THE SAFE FITTING IS IMPERATIVE. FOLLOW THE SEATBELT MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS. THE USE OF HIGH TENSILE BOLTS TO ANCHOR THE SEATBELTS IS REQUIRED BY LAW.

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The lower seatbelt mounts are threaded to accept the fixing bolts, the fixing bolts required are specific to the fitment of seatbelts and are of high tensile steel usually but not always these bolts will be marked with 8.8. The threads for the fixing bolts may need chasing out with a tap of the correct thread to ease the fastening of the bolts. (7/16 UNF)

( fig 8.23)

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CHAPTER NINE. COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL INFORMATION The pedal box and heater box are both fitted to the bulkhead from inside the engine bay, there attachment however is from inside the cockpit, although covered in this chapter, both of these items are best fitted to the bodyshell prior to fitting the body to the chassis. The scuttle hoop under the dashboard area of the cockpit has the attachment points/brackets for the steering column and wiper motor pre-fitted although the steering column bracket is pre -drilled the wiper motor bracket the flat steel plate welded to scuttle on the right is not pre-drilled this in order to allow positioning/adjustment of wiper motor. The handbrake attaches to the drivers side outer chassis rail in the cockpit area using the supplied bracket (this will need drilling to attach lever to it and also to attach to chassis). PEDAL BOX ASSEMBLY INFORMATION Pedal box assembly consists of mounting plate pedals and servo/brake master cylinder, removal of the master cylinder is preferable before fitting pedal box assembly to bulkhead, (retained to servo by two nuts) . You will have dismantled the pedal box earlier to have the brake and clutch pedal modified, reassembled pedals to pedal box before fitting to your AK as it is not possible to fit pedals to pedal box once it is in the car. If not already fitted remember to fit the brake light switch also. FITTING With pedals reassembled to pedal box mounting plate, introduce pedal mounting plate to the drivers side bulkhead from inside the engine bay, there are eight holes already pre-drilled as is the pedal box opening for the eight bolt studs fitted to the pedal box , push firmly against bulkhead and either support with something or have someone hold it in place whilst washers and attachment bolts are fitted to the eight bolt studs. Refit the master cylinder now if you wish or once bodyshell is on chassis. STEERING COLUMN INFORMATION The upper column bracket/attachment point is in the drivers side cockpit area and consists of two brackets welded to the square tubing scuttle frame just to the right of the transmission tunnel , also directly in line with the bracket/attachment point is a pre drilled hole about an inch in diameter in the bulkhead/firewall to the left of the pedal box assembly, this is for the splined end of the steering column to pass through to the lower steering column support . The lower support bracket can be modified if preferred by filing/grinding the mounting escutcheon sides. (fig 9.1)

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(fig 9.1) PARTS REQUIRED The rover steering column from your donor vehicle complete with upper attachment bolts and adjustable tilt bracket, lower column support (bracket splined end passes through) and wiring harness for wipers/lights and horn/washers. FITTING The Rover steering column is attached to the two attachment brackets using the existing rover column attachment bolts , the splined end support passes through the hole in the bulkhead and is supported using the mounting bracket/ bush which is bolted to the bulkhead/firewall in the engine bay. using the two holes in the bracket drill appropriate holes in the bulkead above and below the 1 inch hole the splined end of column passes through. The supplied steering rack to column extension can now be fitted to the steering rack, ensure the roadwheels point straight ahead and fit the extention with the longer end toward steering rack fit the lower universal joint to steering rack aligning splines and pinch bolt with groove in steering rack splined attachment point, repeat procedure for upper universal joint making sure steering wheel if fitted is in straight ahead position. HANDBRAKE INFORMATION The AK supplied handbrake attachment bracket needs to be drilled to accept the XJS handbrake lever, the triangular part of the bracket is drilled with three 8mm holes as per diagram the uppermost hole for the central support bolt of handbrake lever and the two attachment holes below to secure lever to bracket, the bracket also needs two holes in the rectangular base drilling to attach to the chassis. (fig 9.2)

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(fig 9.2) FITTING The bracket is attached to the offside outer chassis rail just above the seat belt mounting bolt hole. There is already one hole drilled in the chassis for body to chassis attachment bolt, place approximately 1.5" to 2" in front of the bolt. Drill and tap chassis M8 / M10, bolt into place. (Alternatively you can drill all the way through the chassis rail and nut and bolt).

(fig 9.3)

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The AK supplied handbrake cable will now require fitting, the adjustment end toward calipers, a hole for the cable to pass through will need to be drilled in the rear of the cockpit wall, pass the cable from under the offside/drivers rear wheel arch through the hole and attach to the handbrake lever assembly, attach the adjustable end to the rear brake calipers, you will also need to secure the cable outer to the underside of the wheel arch using a cable tie so it does not foul on the rear wheel. (fig 9.4)

(fig 9.4)

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HEATING SYSTEM INFORMATION As with the pedal box it is preferable to fit the heater box to the body before fitting body to chassis, as it is also attached from inside the engine bay. The heating system consists of heater box and matrix salvaged from Volkswagen polo, two windscreen demister vents (it is a requirement of SVA regulations to be able to demist the windscreen). PARTS REQUIRED……. Heater box complete with matrix from mk11 polo. Side entry heater vents 1 ½-inch outlet. x2 (plastic) Heater ducting 1 ¾ inch I.D. 1 metre Demister vent x 2 (chrome) Heater/vent box (AK supplied) Fresh air ports x 2 (to fit to AK heater vent box) (sink waste pipe can be used) FITTING

DO NOT REMOVE FLANGE (fig 9.5)

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Where the heater box mates to the bulkhead DO NOT REMOVE the angled plastic flange from the matrix/mounting face of the heater box case, (fig 9.5 is incorrect) this assembly can be introduced to the bulkhead/firewall from inside the engine bay, it needs to be positioned centrally on the angled face just above the transmission tunnel, mark around the the heater box with a mark-er pen, then put heater assembly to one side, the rectangular outline you have marked now needs to be drawn again 10 to 15 mm inside the original line so as to leave a mounting surface for the heater box, you will then need to cut an opening in the bulkhead following this line. (fig 9.6)

(fig 9.6) After first coating the mating surface with a sealant/glue (gripfil works well) the heater box assembly is then held in place from inside the engine bay whilst from inside the cockpit self-tapping screws are inserted through the fibreglass into the plastic surround of the heater box. HEATER VENT BOX You will now need to make two holes in the fibreglass heater box distribution cover supplied by AK on the upper face, using fresh air ports or plastic waste pipe (usually used under the sink) make holes and fit to the heater vent box, then attach this box over the opening inside the cockpit that you made for the heater box. ( fig 9.7), There is a mating/attachment flange at the top of the heater/vent box for bolting/screwing into the scuttle hoop, seal around the box with some form of sealant to prevent air leakage.

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Next position and fit the demister vents to the top of the dashboard close enough to allow an even coverage to allow the blown air to demist the windscreen (the positions are marked approximately by AK before the body/chassis leaves the factory), slots will need to be cut in the top of the scuttle/dash and fixing holes, using the demister vents as a template place masking tape on the upper dash/scuttle were they are to be placed, mark the slot and fixing holes then remove demister vent and drill and file slots for the air form heater/blower to pass through, introduce the side entry vents to the underside of the scuttle/dash and using sealant/glue fix to underside of slots then secure using nut and bolt fixing through the holes in the demister vent through scuttle/dash into the side entry heater vents, finally cut the heater ducting to length and fit to top of AK supplied heater box and to the side entry heater vents.

(fig 9.7)

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WINDSCREEN WIPERS INFORMATION The wiper system for the AK 427 is a three blade system , the system is left hand parking Ie: drivers side. The system must be self-parking, perform a minimum 110 degree sweep of the windscreen, have at least two speeds one of which performs a minimum of 45 cycles per minute to comply with SVA regulations, . The amount of the sweep of the wiper system is determined by the wiper gear in the wiper motor, the self-parking of the wipers when system is switched of is enabled by small plastic ramp attached to the wiper gear, it is the position of this which determines which side wipers park.

(fig 9.8)

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PARTS REQUIRED ……. Wiper motor (complete with gear if possible) (Lucas or BLMC) Rubber base pad Bracket/clamp Wiper gear (if not pre-fitted to motor) Wiper rack Bundy tubing Wiper wheel boxes x3 Spacer tubing for wheel boxes x3 (rubber hose can be used) Wiper arms x3 (bayonet type 5.2mm adjustable) wiper blades x3 (10 inch bayonet fit 5.2mm blades) Before fitting the wiper motor to your AK the wiper gear will need to be installed in the wiper motor (if not already pre-fitted) , on the wiper gear there is a small raised plastic ramp which can be position in varying places on the gear this determines the self park of wipers when switched off (Ie : system will complete its sweep of windscreen and park /rest wipers at base of screen on drivers side) , position the ramp so when wipers are switched off the rack is in the fully extended position out of the motor , this will ensure that with the rack running through the wheel boxes rack and tube positioned at the bottom (fig 9.8 /9.10) the wiper arms will park on the right hand/drivers side .

(fig 9.9) FITTING Cover the scuttle in front of the windscreen with masking tape using the measurements in diagram , place the wiper escutcheon / bezel and gasket with the rear edge up against the rubber seal at base of windscreen , (position can be checked by placing wiper blade and arm over escutcheon / bezel to check wiper is in correct position in relation to screen) mark the centre using the gasket as a template then drill smaller hole than required through the scuttle at an angle equivalent to that of the escutcheon / bezel , open out the hole with a round file maintaining the angle until the wheel box will fit through from underneath the scuttle (ie: in the cockpit) fit spacer tube to wheel box ( rubber hose can be used , cut to length and angle).

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Temporarily fit wheel boxes in place, wheel boxes should be positioned with rack at the bottom so rack will run underneath .

(fig 9.10) WIPER MOTOR Fit the rack to the wiper motor but do not fit the tubing at this time , the wiper motor complete with rack can be mounted to the plate provided in the upper right hand corner of the scuttle hoop in the cockpit just to the right of the steering column mounting. Separate the backplate from wheel boxes and run rack through them ensuring wheel boxes are positioned so rack is at the bottom replace covers and fasten. Offer wiper motor up to mounting plate complete with rubber base plate and clamp / bracket ensuring there are no kinks in the rack and it has a smooth run ,whilst holding motor in position mark holes for the attachment bolts ,remove motor and drill required holes , further offer up wiper motor and bolt into place . The outer tubing for the rack will need to be cut to length , determine the length of each piece by measuring from wiper motor to wheel box and then from wheel box to wheel box were rack runs through allow extra ½ inch as the tube needs to be flared to enable clamping into place by wheel box , ensure tube runs smoothly with out any sharp bends or kinks , thoroughly lubricate the wiper rack with grease then insert it through the tubes clamping them in wheel boxes as you go .

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INSTRUMENT PANEL The instrument panel supplied with your AK is constructed of GRP/fibreglass and moulded to fit the bodyshell under the dash/scuttle, it will have come pre-fitted to the underside of the dash/scuttle and is attached with several butterfly nuts and washers. It is complete with an open glovebox, it is also necessary to cut out the steering column aperture, several threaded studs are glassed into the back of the instrument panel with which to attach to the mounting lip provided under the dash/scuttle for that purpose, some preparation is required before trimming the instrument panel with your desired upholstery, namely the apertures for the various instruments and switchgear. PREPARATION Using the various instruments/ switches and warning lights mark out the positions and sizes for the apertures to be cut, you can use the relevant hole saws to aid this task or alternatively drill pilot holes around the inside of the marked apertures then cut away the excess using a half round file to smooth the circular apertures and flat file for the switches. Usually the chosen covering for your instrument panel will be folded into the apertures which will require that the apertures are made slightly larger to accommodate the instruments/ switches as well as the chosen covering. Once the instrument panel has been upholstered to your requirements the various instruments and switches can be re-fitted and the wiring to said items embarked upon. FITTING To fit the instrument panel to the bodyshell is just a case of offering it up to the small lip under the dash/scuttle and fastening into place with the supplied butterfly nuts and washers, the lower part of the instrument panel can either be attached using self tapping screws thru the side panels into the transmission tunnel or fixing brackets sourced by the builder to the panels with which to attach to the transmission tunnel. (9.11) During the fitting of various other items and fitting and checking wiring the instrument panel will be in and out several times, it is wise to delay permanent fitting until all necessary work has been carried out.

:NOTE: THE APERTURES WILL NEED TO BE LARGER THAN THE INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES BY UP TO 2mm TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE THICKNESS OF THE COVERING MATERIAL

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(fig 9.11) INSTRUMENTS and SWITCHGEAR Most builders will fit a full compliment of gauges/instruments, but the requirements of the law and SVA regulations dictate specific instruments and warning lights are compulsory. Speedometer Brake warning lamp Fog light warning lamp Full beam warning lamp Indicator warning lamp Hazard warning indication lamp

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CHAPTER TEN ELECTRICAL WIRING LOOM INFORMATION Electrical installation in the AK is a 12 volt negative earth, comprising of a 12volt battery which is to be located in the boot offside recess, an alternator for charging said battery and pre-engaged starter motor, the battery supplies the current to the ignition system lighting and other electrical circuits and provides reserves of electricity when the current consumed by the electrical system exceeds that be produced by the charging system (alternator). With this in mind it is extremely important that the wiring system (loom) can cope with demands put on it and it is adequately earthed, started motors require a lot current and put great demands on the system and it is necessary to use the correct gauge and amperage of wiring throughout. It is possible to construct the wiring harness yourself from scratch but unless you are a skilled auto electrician it can be seen as quite a daunting task, The wiring loom supplied by AK is purpose built for your needs and complete with harnesses and plugs to directly plug into your wiper/washer/lights and indicator harness on the Rover steering column, it is complete with relay box and relays, fuse box and fuses, voltage stabilizer and there are separate connectors and harness for connection to the dashboard instruments for which you make up your own wiring to clocks/instruments. The loom is complete with wiring diagram and wiring identification list, there is sufficient length of wire for all connections. PARTS REQUIRED AK Wiring loom Battery 12 volt negative earth Positive battery cable (red) (15 feet approx) 135amp due to long run of cable Negative battery cable (black) Positive battery terminal/connector Negative battery terminal/connector Battery cut-off switch/key Instruments ( speedometer/rev counter/volt meter/ fuel gauge/temp gauge etc) Rocker Switches (fog lights/heater/hazard warning etc) (must comply with SVA)

IT IS A REQUIREMENT OF SVA REGULATIONS THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE ELECTRICAL SUPPRESSION to the IGNITION SYSTEM. AND THAT ALL CABLES ARE SECURED TO THE BODY/CHASSIS

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Warning lights (ignition/brake fluid level/indicators/full beam) Cable ties /cable clips Spade connectors (male and female) Bullet connectors Rubber grommets Loom tape FITTING Lay the full loom out on the floor, although the loom is supplied as one piece it is separated into legs for different areas of the car, using the loom layout diagram and wires list, prepare the loom for fitting to the car by firstly identifying the different legs and label them with masking tape, as the wires are colour coded for each individual item the legs can be identified this way. LEG 1 ENGINE BAY LEG 2 OFF-SIDE FRONT LOOM LEG 3 OFF-SIDE TO REAR INTO BOOT LEG 4 INSIDE COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop) LEG 5 NEARSIDE FRONT LOOM LEG 6 COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop) LEG 7 STEERING COLUMN Once you have identified and labelled the individual legs of the loom, proceed to label the individual wires as to there various connections using the wires list supplied with the loom and supplied in this chapter for your perusal along with loom layout diagram. With the loom completely labelled place LEG 4/6/7 into the cockpit across in front of scuttle hoop. At the top of each of the foot wells behind the scuttle hoop top left of passenger foot well and top right of drivers foot well are access holes for the loom to pass through, LEG 2 passes through top right/drivers side foot well access hole to engine bay, LEG 5 runs across the scuttle hoop in the cockpit before then passing through access hole top left/ passenger side foot well into engine bay, LEG 1 runs around the raised part of the floor pan drivers side across front of drivers foot well below pedal box and through access hole into engine bay (fit rubber grommet over cable were it passes through to engine bay. For LEG 3 to pass into the boot an access hole needs to be made in the rear bulkhead run LEG 3 along under drivers side door and up rear bulkhead make a hole for loom to pass through into wheel arch space and from wheel arch into boot space. LEG 6 must be secured to the scuttle hoop as it passes from driver`s side over to passenger side, You will find that the fuse box relay connector and plugs to dashboard harness will all be on/in passenger side, the fuse box and relays need to be mounted up under the scuttle and secured remembering you will at times need access to the fuses and relays, a steel plate can be fabricated to bolt to the scuttle for the fuse box and relays to be mounted on, ( fig 10.2).

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(fig 10.1)

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(fig 10.2) Once all individual legs of loom are to there respective areas the various connections can be made to each component, there are earth connections at various parts of the loom ( BROWN wire) it is important a good clean connection is made for these to the chassis, there is one as part of LEG 6 attach this to the scuttle hoop after first drilling and tapping a hole to attach it. The earth on LEG 5 and LEG 2 can be bolted to the chassis to body mounting under the front wheel arches. Most components will require spade connectors however the connections to the headlights will more than likely be bullet connectors, make sure all connections are secure and spade connectors are covered with protective boot, spade connectors can be soldered if required and wire connections covered with heat shrink, secure the loom using cable ties that run under wheel arches were loom passes to front lights and ensure were wiring runs it is secured to body or chassis, loose wires will chaff with the vibration and movement of the vehicle leading to shorts in the electrical circuit and possibly to a fire.

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BATTERY CABLE The positive (live/red) battery cable runs the length of the vehicle due to the battery being mounted in the boot, as with all long runs of cable it is wise to use a higher amperage of cable to avoid overheating of cable and current drop. The cable passes through the hole at the foot of the driver’s foot well along with LEG 1 of the wiring loom. Ensure a rubber grommet is used were cables pass through bodywork, the battery cable runs across foot well along the length of vehicle under the door frame up the rear bulkhead through access hole made for LEG 3 of wiring loom here it passes under offside rear wheel arch were it is secured with cable ties installed by AK then through into the boot area above recess at rear of boot off side were the battery mounts.

(fig 10.3) The battery cut off switch is bolted to the chassis and used as the earth/negative lead to the battery, bolt bracket for switch to chassis using attachment bolt for boot floor to chassis next to battery position, bolt battery cut-off key switch to bracket and negative/earth lead to switch and battery, when you remove the key from the switch this separates the earth and cuts current to the electrics. (fig 10.3) Were the battery is mounted in the boot it is important that it is firmly secured using retaining bracket or strap or a battery box can be utilized, ensure adequate ventilation if using battery box.

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(fig 10.4)

(fig 10.5)

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(fig 10.6)

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WIPER WIRING When using the AK wiring loom it is in some cases necessary to change the pin configuration on the wiper stalk/on-off switch, when an intermittent relay is placed in the relay block of the wiring loom and intermittent is selected on the wiper switch/stalk it causes the fuse for the wipers to blow, to solve this problem carry out the procedure below. The wiper stalk is on the right hand side of the column and has 4 positions when facing the steering column these are:- SPEED 2 SPEED 1 OFF INTERMITTENT Remove the wiper switch assembly from the rover steering column the wires have bullet connectors to pins on the stalk/switch, below is the original wiring pin numbers/wiring colour code, followed by the new configuration. CURRENT PIN CONFIGURATION PIN 1… GREEN / BLUE PIN 2… BROWN / GREEN PIN 3… BROWN /GREEN + LINK WIRE TO WASHER (BLACK) PIN 4… YELLOW / GREEN PIN 5… BROWN / LT GREEN PIN 6… WHITE / GREEN PIN 7… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 8 PIN 8… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 7 CHANGE TO PIN 1… GREEN / BLUE PIN 2… BROWN / GREEN PIN 3… BROWN / LT GREEN + LINK TO WASHER (BLACK) PIN 4… WHITE / GREEN PIN 5… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 8 PIN 6… YELLOW / GREEN PIN 7… BROWN / GREEN PIN 8… RED / GREEN + LINK WIRE TO PIN 5

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CHAPTER ELEVEN COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY INFORMATION This chapter covers the fitting of your interior carpet/ side panels/door panels seats and dashboard, all these items the trim level is a matter up to the individuals choice, carpet sets can be purchased from a professional carpet trimmer as can the trimming of the seats/door panels/and dashboard be contracted out to an upholstery trimmer. If the builder chooses to do this himself with a little care and forethought the task can be made much easier. The use of cardboard or paper templates to fashion up the door panel/dashboard material and carpet will ensure a proper fit before cutting the material/carpet. The time and care taken with this will determine the overall quality of the cars presentation. CARPETS The carpet for your AK will need to be cut to size and glued into place using upholstery/carpet glue (sourced from your carpet supplier). The alternative is to get a carpet set made up by sourcing out to a qualified trimmer. The diagram provided (fig 11.1) gives an idea as to the order it is best to fit the carpet into your AK, cut templates if deemed necessary and mark onto carpet before cutting, check fit then apply the glue to the area you are about to fit the piece of carpet and to the back of the carpet and then give sufficient time for the glue to become almost dry as this will give a stronger bond. Allow the carpet glue to dry sufficiently before fitting carpet finally to it, as it is a contact glue be sure of your positioning. When carpeting the transmission tunnel the three pieces required will need to joined with trim if required this can be sourced out to a qualified trimmer. The same process is used when carpeting the boot tub also.

NOTE ANY OVERSPRAY CAN EASILY BE REMOVED BY SPRAYING DUCK OIL OR WD-40 ONTO A CLEAN RAG AND RUBBING THE AREA FIRMLY.

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(fig 11.1)

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INTERIOR SIDE PANELS The interior side panels supplied with your kit are made of fibreglass and are handed for the left and right sides of the cockpit/seat tub area (fig 11.2), they are screwed to the timber inserts (put in place when the door locks were fitted) they are also held in place by the door opening trim. The trim panels are covered when you fit the carpet or can be carpeted before fitting inside the cockpit. A trial fit is recommended as the panels will require some trimming to obtain a good fit, you will find the panels are stepped toward the front so as to fit around the scuttle hoop supports (fig 11.2))

(fig 11.2) DOOR PANELS The door trim/panel can be attached to the door in a number of ways, if you had upholstery buttons fitted when you had panel trimmed it is a simple case of drilling the holes were these are on the panel (the door lock once re-fitted will also hold the panel in place), other alternatives are to use trim clips or several dome headed screws and cup washers. SEATS The seats for your AK do not need to sit on runners but are fixed directly to the floor, because they are of a fibreglass shell ,if they do not have a strengthening insert in the base then make one up with a piece of plate stainless steel or equivalent so the seat base is sandwiched between the strengthening plate and the cockpit/seat tub floor , four fixing nuts and bolts will be required to hold seat securely drill through strengthening plate the seat base the carpet and the floor and insert bolts through the holes in strengthening plate/seat base and carpet floor and using washers to spread the load and nyloc nuts on the bolts fix the seats securely (you will need to get under the vehicle to tighten the four nuts).

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CHAPTER TWELVE. FINISHING WHEELS AND TYRES AK can supply wheels and tyres with the correct offset. For 16 inch wheels. tyre sizes Front… 215/55/16 speed rating.. WR or higher Rear … 245/55/16 speed rating.. WR or higher Offset and rim width - Please contact us Front… Rear… For 17 inch wheels Front… 215/50/17 speed rating.. WR or higher Rear… 255/45/17 speed rating.. WR or higher Offset and rim width - Please contact us Front… Rear… Check the tyre pressures are correct, the manufacturer may recommend lower pressure due to the lower weight of the car. Front… 25 lbs psi. Rear… 26 lbs psi.

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SUSPENSION The dampers are adjustable on the AK as is the spring setting, the dampers control the bound and rebound which is adjusted by a knurled knob at the base of the damper body fully turn the knurled knob toward the - minus then back toward the + plus, 7 clicks to start with and further adjust to suit the ride you prefer after suspension has settled. The spring platforms can be screwed up or down but initially after SVA they need to be set to maintain a gap between the top of the tyre and wheel arch of 1 ½ inches 60 to 70 mm as they will settle as you use the car and will need re-adjustment. RIDE HEIGHT The ride height will need adjusting during first usage several times as the suspension settles but for the car to stay within the law when used on the public highway the front indicators should be 350mm from the bottom of the indicator to the road surface. TOE The toe in/out on the front wheels needs to be set at 4 mm, your local garage or tyre fitters can do this as can AK. SPEEDOMETER The speedometer calibration needs to set before the SVA test to comply with the regulations the speedometer is allowed a maximum under reading of the speed of 20 percent, there can be no over reading of the speed. RUNNING IN After 500 miles it is important that all nuts and bolts are checked to make sure none have become loosened.

INDICATED SPEED MIN.TRUE SPEED mph mph

35 26 40 30 45 35 50 39 55 44 60 48 65 53 70 58