robinson class 8 lner b5 cla… · page 1 class 8c page 1 class 8c robinson gcr class 8c lner b1...

Class 8C

Page 1 Class 8C

Robinson GCR Class 8C LNER B1The Class 8C was a trial build of a 4-6-0 soon after Robinson decided on a big engine policy. While impressed by the work doneby Churchward at Swindon, he seems to have adopted a cautious approach so decided to build 4 locomotives, essentially withall the major features the same, but the 8C as a 4-6-0 and the 8B as a 4-4-2 Atlantic. 6’ 9” coupled wheels were fitted. The workwas done by Beyer Peacock and was based on the earlier 4-6-0s, the so-called “fish” engines which were Class 8 under the GreatCentral way of categorising things.

Both were built in 1903/4 by Beyer-Peacock with saturated steam boilers. They were withdrawn in December 1947. Neither ofthem received BR numbers, their replacement by the Thompson B1 meant that neither were re-painted or re-numbered. Theywere re-classified as B18 in 1943.

195 was superheated in 1912 but this was later removed and replaced by the original saturated type in 1920. After groupingboth were superheated quite quickly by the LNER.

As with the other Robinson locomotives, chimneys were a varying feature. The classical GCR chimneys were not approved by theLNER because of the loading gauge issues (in common with most of the GCR classes) so were replaced initially by the LNERflower-pot version. Later a pseudo-GCR chimney was fitted. Flattened or angular domes were used at various times, the angulardomes seemed to appear during WW2. The movement of the whistle from the cab top onto the boiler happened for the samereasons of loading gauge.

For guidance:-

Number Year Chimney Dome Safety Valves

195 1912 Original Original Ramsbottom5195 1923 Original Flattened Ramsbottom with casing5195 1926 Flowerpot Flattened Ross5195 1936 Gorton Pseudo Flattened Ross5196 1930 Flowerpot Flattened Ross5196 1943 Gorton Pseudo Flattened Ross5195 1946 Gorton Pseudo Angular Ross1480 1947 Gorton Pseudo Very Short Ross

NumberingBuilt Withdrawn GCR # LNER LNER Renum 1 LNER Renum 2 BR

12/1903 12/1947 195 5195 1470 1479 N/A1/1904 12/1947 196 5196 1471 1480 N/A

Additional NotesLNER Numbering - there were huge variations in how LNER numbering was applied. Sizes varied, location carried, style varied,sometimes just ‘NE’, sometimes still with the GCR cab side plate and the letter ‘c’ added to the LNER number, sometimes on thetender but mainly on the cab once the LNER got themselves sorted out.

Photographs should be consulted when deciding what number to have. Of course in GC days it was all rather simpler.

Locomotives could have a carriage heater connection at the front as they became used on passenger trips which would meanthat a heating pipe should also be added to the tender.

Smoke box wheels for this class lasted the life of the locomotives.

There are more versions of the chimneys and domes than catered for by the kit. The original chimney was of a much finerappearance and rapidly failed in service.

Ramsbottom 2 column valves were originally fitted and a branching arrangement used for the traditional 4-column appearance.These were originally uncased but casing was added later. Ross valves replaced the Ramsbottom valves during superheating.Tail rods on the cylinders were removed before grouping but I have no dates for this, I suspect it was quite early in the life ofthese locomotives as with other GC classes.On super-heating a snifting valve was fitted behind the chimney. At the same timethe ash ejector was fitted on the right of the Smoke Box.

Centre steps were removed before the grouping.

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Livery was perplexing. Originally in full GCR green regalia, they soon reverted to lined black and then the LNER painted themgreen again until WW11, when they all became black again. The beading was always unpainted and usually unpolished underLNER management.

Tenders when built were the GCR 3,250 gallon version but these were soon replaced by the group standard with plated sides.

As with all models from this era, the best thing a modeller can do is refer to published literature such as

� “Locomotives of the LNER Part 2B” from RCTS

� “Locomotives of the Great Central Railway” by E. M. Johnson

� Photographs from various collections - usually available at shows such as Scaleforum and Scalefour North

� “Yeadon’s Register of LNER Locomotives - Part 22”

Important NoteThis kit has been designed for P4 or EM standards. Alternative parts have been designed into the brass and nickel silver frets.There are plenty of spare parts for the smaller items. Considerable additional work will be needed to build this kit to ‘00’standards. Remember that ‘00’ wheels will cut into the boiler. For EM modellers care must be taken not to increase the upwardmovement of the wheels by filing out the axle slots in the frames should springing or compensation be used.

Notes on the kits and constituent partsThe etched parts in this kit have been designed using a CAD program (TurboCAD 18.2) to ensure accuracy when fitting the partstogether. Included in these notes are:-

� A list of etched and cast parts

� A list of additional and optional parts

� Drawings of the etch fret

� Detailed step-by-step instructions with the drawings extracted from the CAD originals

The original CAD drawings were prepared from GA drawings obtained from MOSI in Manchester and scaled at 12” to 1’. Duringthe design process a number of compromises had to be made (such as the frame widths) because of the materials and partsavailable to the modeller and the P4 and EM standards. These compromises were used to draw a full size CAD drawing whichwas then used to provide the instructions and construction drawings and the final etch parts. The etch parts of the drawingwere scaled down very accurately to produce etches for the 4 mm modeller.

The kit prototype was built by the designer. The first trial etch was used as a feasibility project and to write outline instructions.A second, partial, etch was needed to modify a few parts, to confirm the instructions and produce the assembly diagrams. Amodeller familiar with etch brass kit construction should be able to build an accurate model if these instructions are followed,generally as written. However, fine-scale modellers being who we are, other ways of building the kit will be tried!

The InstructionsMore years ago than I care to remember I was involved in validating and writing Master Work Sheets for the Royal Air Force.These were sets of instructions that had to be followed to the letter by technicians world-wide even though they may neverhave met that particular piece of equipment before. Deviations were never permitted to the technicians – given that themachines being tested were vital to safe flying – and any permission to be deviant to be granted by senior authority was subjectto a very close monitoring process.

However, senility and pending obsolescence have taken their toll – nobody is perfect – so if you find anything in theseinstructions you feel to be wrong it will be examined closely and amended where appropriate. Likewise, with the measurementsof the parts, if there is something which you feel may be wrong then, please let me know. It would be nice if this was supportedby drawings, or copies of drawings with time stamps if possible. Photographs are useful as well. But be warned, the availabledrawings are neither consistent nor accurate if my research means anything at all and there were so many cosmetic changesmade to these locomotives over nearly 50 years that photographs without a date stamp must be treated with some caution.

Things to noteIn a few areas there are alternative ways of doing things. For this kit the springs have been printed using 3D CAD technology,they are fitted to the frames in the same way as traditional metal springs. Note that these are heat sensitive and will melt asquickly as white metal castings. Using these means that the wheels can also be removed for ‘servicing’.

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Continuous Springy Beams (CSBs) may be fitted - they seem to be all the vogue these days. I am a little uncomfortable with theidea for an arrangement such as a 4-6-0 and prefer to stick with the prototype idea where each axle is sprung by itself. Adeciding factor was that the ‘ideal’ CSB points seemed to be exactly where the ‘scale’ frame spacers were placed. Short handrailknobs are used for the spring mounts. EM modellers may use frame blanks to remove the need for springing.

Stephenson’s Valve Gear would have been visible only by looking very carefully, for this engine. Extra parts are provided so youcan experiment with the way it fits together. If you are tempted to try this then please do remember not to solder the parts insitu ‘after’ you have fitted your plastic centred wheels. The valve gear may be fitted in working order or as a very loose fit on thecentre axle. In the second case they will be visible but will not move except around the axis of the axle.

The Stephenson’s Valve Gear is tricky to get working well and may be left out. The rest of the engine will still look good.

Rear and centre frame spacers - those supplied on the etch are to scale and may be fitted if desired - you can create framespacers which are a good representation of the originals but these are difficult to see when the model is completed. In practicethe rear spacer construction was used to steady the front of the fire box but this may be omitted without weakening the wholechassis. P4 and EM versions of these spacers are supplied together with some generic spares. These are not standard widthsthough. Use the spares in appropriate places if you do not need the scale spacers or wish to add your own parts for additionalelectrical pick-up.

There is substantial current collection capability in the tender. I was tempted not to have pick-ups in the locomotive since theywould detract from the scale frame spacers and the valve gear and since there is plenty of space in the tender with or withoutthe optional DCC chip this may be a good option. The two wires for the motor may then represent the vacuum and heatingpipes.

The part numbers and descriptions (where space permits) are half etched on the frets as near to the parts as sensible and matchthe description that appears in the Parts List. These annotations will appear in the form “212”, or “223,224” or 213-217” or 218-225+3”. Where something like “212EM” appears on the fret then that is the EM version of a part that will also have a P4(unlabelled) part on the fret. Where the “+” appears in the part number it shows that additional parts have been included andthe number following shows that 3 additional parts are on the fret. This allows for two possibilities

a) losing very small parts in the carpet after cutting them from the fret

b) practising the assembly in cases where some difficulty may be expected

Also on the fret there are a couple of blocks on which to practice your skill at pushing out rivets. Try these first to test theconsistency of your efforts. Refer to photographs to check if these parts were actually riveted early in life, Robinson abhored‘proud’ rivets and there is some photographic evidence to show that they may not have been used in the early days

The instructions also use the Part Number and Full Description. This may seem a little pedantic but can help where there may besome uncertainty. I also list all parts separately and do not group sets of parts together (i.e. Springs Qty 7) so that you will findthe parts list will show each layer in a built up assembly as an individual item.

Assembly InstructionsThe frets are made from 12’ brass and 15’ N/S. They are fragile and the edges are sharp. Take care when assembling andespecially when drilling out holes. Rotating brass or N/S will cause a lot of skin and tissue damage if the drill sticks and tears. Forpreference use a hand drill or pin chuck.

You may also find it easier to drill out all the locating holes while the parts are still within the main etch, and even to assemblesome of the parts together - simply because this helps to hold at least one of the parts firmly in place.

Do not use force at any time, you are likely to bend the parts beyond repair. The tabs and slots are designed to be a semi-tightfit and on occasion a little easing with a strip of wet & dry sandpaper may be needed, especially on the slots in the smaller parts.If needed, where parts fit into a slot, very lightly dress the mating edges with a fine file.

Unless otherwise stated, the folds are all done with the half etch on the inside.

TAGS are on the fret and hold the individual parts in place when the fret is etched. TABS are on the parts to fit into SLOTS in thecorresponding parts. In many areas on the fret TAGS have been arranged so that they fit onto TABS solely to help minimize anypossible damage to the component when the TAGS are removed since the TABS will all in the end be invisible.

Do not confuse TAGS and TABS and file off any TABS!

It may be easier to do a number of preparatory jobs before removing parts from the main etches, such as opening out holesused to locate parts. There are a few rivets that have to be pushed through from the rear of some parts, the main frames forexample. The smoke box wrapper was flush riveted when built but as the LNER super-heated the locomotives they would

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normally have been replaced by the usual, highly visible rivets. Front buffers sometimes had rivets added after superheating butnot necessarily at the same time. The smoke box wrapper may also have had further rivets added as well as the smoke box frontaround the door, which seemed to have happened in the late ‘30s and early 40s.

As always, if you are really keen on authenticity then the best thing to do is to examine a photograph of the engine you aremodelling.

Decision timeThe kit has been designed to use frame spacers that approximate to the frames on the original engines, which means thatstiffeners are also added to the inside and outside of the frames. Should you decide that adding these scale spacers is a step toofar since they will be almost invisible then alternative spacers are included for P4 and EM.

Cosmetic spring mechanism are provided. These are removable using screws for those of us who like to be able to remove thewheel sets easily.

Sufficient parts are included to make this kit to either P4 or EM standards. Because the EM wheel back-to-back is a little smallerthan P4, the spacers for EM are narrower and the frames will not have the distinctive kink at 4’ 0” from the front of the frame.Do not mix up the P4 and EM parts since you will find there a world of pain. Remember that EM parts are identified on the fretwith a suffix ‘EM’ after the Part Number.

The kit as designed will go around a 1250 mm radius curve before the bogie wheels hit the frames. A tighter turning circle willmean that the main frames have to be cut back to allow the bogie wheels further side play, there are half etch marks on theinside to indicate the best place to cut. Note also that for something like a 1000 mm radius that the rear inside of the cylinderswill need trimming.

SolderingI use ‘Nealetin’, a liquid solder with its own flux. This allows very close control of the initial solder join. Most initial joints will besecure using this (or a similar liquid solder). Motion parts should be soldered with a higher temperature solder. Once you areconvinced things are square then it is possible to run a small fillet of solder along critical joins by first priming with a little‘Nealetin’. I purchased my last tub from Hobby Holidays near Doncaster.

I have never used lead free solder for making models.

Square FramesThere are a couple of mechanisms, neither of which I have used, which have been acclaimed for the ease with which they permita square frame to be built. While these are expensive to start, many modellers have sung their praises.

Under Etched partsOn occasion some parts may be a little under etched. The individual frets have outer frames which are the same width as thevast majority of the slots - just use a short section of this to free up any dubious slots. In any event it is always wise to prepareparts using a very fine file to remove any bits of ‘cusp’ left from the etching process, before assembly.

Health & SafetyExperienced modellers will know all this already but -

� The frets are made from 12’ brass and 15’ nickel silver. They are fragile and the edges are sharp. Take care when assemblingand especially when drilling out holes. Rotating brass (which tends to grab drill bits, especially near the end of their cut) ornickel silver will cause a lot of skin and tissue damage if the drill sticks and tears. For preference use a hand drill or pinchuck.

� Soldering entails the use of toxic materials such as lead and acid flux. Observe the warning notices that come with theseproducts and especially use adequate ventilation. Wear suitable eye protection where needed.

� Solder also gets very hot when melted, as do the parts when heated to solder them together. Take care to hold partscarefully with insulating material where needed and to let them cool properly before handling. This is especially true ifannealing parts so they can be bent into shape more easily. It is also true where several layers may have been used to buildup an assembly.

� When painting, ensure proper ventilation, especially is using a two part etch solution. Some of these carry hazardouschemicals.

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� On a few occasions there will be a wire across the frames or bogie soldered at both ends. Do not be tempted to cut thisafter assembly with the normal wire cutters, this will force the frames apart and cause some damage. Use something like atriangular file or a disc cutter to make the first cut!

Note on bending parts with half etched linesTighter bends may be achieved as follows if thought to be necessary (notes extracted from some thoughts by Will Litchfield).

1. Deepen the fold line with a triangular 4 cut needle file till a witness line shows though to the other side.

2. Hold the etch on a flat surface with a your trusty steel rule along the fold line.

3. Run a craft knife blade long under the etch to start the fold on it way.

4. When the edge stands well way from the flat surface, use another steel rule to complete the fold.

You get a sharper bend this way, because a of step 1 and it is accurately placed on the centre of the fold line.

Notes on wheel choicesThe frames on this kit are set to a design width of 16.15 mm for P4 so that with cusp removal on the spacers approximately16.00 mm is the final frame width. This is slightly less than some kits, but more than other kits, especially those which weredesigned for the ‘00’ market and then had options added for the finer scale gauges of ‘P4’ and ‘EM’. To this width must beadded the outer flange of the horn blocks, which will vary depending on horn block supplied - the ones supplied are fromMarkits.

For the fine scale gauges, side play can be an important issue especially where small radius curves of less than 1200 mm are tobe tackled.

There are three wheel sets available, from Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Exactoscale. For P4, the Alan Gibson wheels have a rearboss which is 0.5 mm deep. This will impact side play, especially for P4 modellers and less so for EM modellers. This rear bossshould be removed from Alan Gibson wheels.

Potential purchasers in the fine scale gauges are urged to consider these points. There are, as always, strategies to amelioratesuch issues. Further reading on these points are in :-

Side Play Supplementary Notes

Design Notes

Both of which are available on the web site at www.greatcentralmodels.co.uk on the ‘instructions’ page.

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Locomotive Chassis

0.015’ 0.375 mm Nickel Silver

Locomotive Frame1. Frame Left - Sheet 12. Frame Right - Sheet 13. Front Buffer Beam - Sheet 14. Front Buffer Beam Overlay - Sheet 15. Rear Buffer Beam - Sheet 16. Rear Buffer Beam Overlay - Sheet 17. Cylinder Spacer Front - Sheet 18. Cylinder Spacer Rear - Sheet 19. Cab Base Support - Sheet 3

10. Firebox Base - Sheet 311. Smoke Box Base - Sheet 312. Rear Frame Spacer - Sheet 313. Rear Frame Spacer Brace - Sheet 314. Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Left - Sheet 115. Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Right - Sheet 116. Centre Frame Spacer - Sheet 317. Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Left - Sheet 118. Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Right - Sheet 119. Valve Guide Support Spacer - Sheet 320. Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Left -

Sheet 121. Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Right -

Sheet 122. Slide Bar Support Left - Sheet 323. Slide Bar Support Right - Sheet 324. Buffer Support Left - Sheet 125. Buffer Support Right - Sheet 126. Sandbox Left - Sheet 127. Sandbox Right - Sheet 128. Brake Cylinder Support Left - Sheet 129. Brake Cylinder Support Right - Sheet 130. Guard Iron Left - Sheet 131. Guard Iron Right - Sheet 132. Buffer Mount - Sheet 133. Buffer Mount - Sheet 134. Coupler - Sheet 135. Coupler - Sheet 136. Rear Buffer Housing Plate - Sheet 137. Rear Buffer Housing Plate - Sheet 138. Footplate Fixing Bracket - Sheet 239. Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 140. Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 141. Rear Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 142. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 143. Drag Link - Sheet 144. Drag Link - Sheet 145. Drag Link - Sheet 146. Firebox Right - Sheet 147. Firebox Left - Sheet 148. Bogie Mount - Sheet 349. Cylinder Head - Sheet 350. Cylinder Head - Sheet 351. Cylinder Head - Sheet 352. Cylinder Head - Sheet 353. Safety Loop - Sheet 154. Safety Loop - Sheet 1

Brakes55. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 156. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 157. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 158. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 159. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 160. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 161. Brake Pull - Sheet 362. Brake Pull Rear Bracket - Sheet 363. Brake Pull Rear Bracket - Sheet 364. Brake Pull Centre Bracket - Sheet 365. Brake Pull Centre Bracket - Sheet 366. Brake Pull Front Bracket - Sheet 367. Brake Pull Front Bracket - Sheet 368. Vacuum Cylinder Link - Sheet 369. Brake Mount - Sheet 370. Brake Mount - Sheet 371. Brake Mount - Sheet 372. Brake Mount - Sheet 373. Brake Mount - Sheet 374. Brake Mount - Sheet 375. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 376. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 377. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 378. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 379. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 380. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 381. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 382. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 383. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 384. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 385. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 386. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 387. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 388. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 389. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 390. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 391. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 392. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 393. Brake Cylinder Link - Sheet 394. Brake Cylinder Link - Sheet 395. Rear Brake Pull - Sheet 396. Rear Brake Pull - Sheet 3

Coupling Rods97. Coupling Rod Left Front - Sheet 298. Coupling Rod Left Rear - Sheet 299. Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay - Sheet 2

100. Coupling Rod Left Rear Overlay - Sheet 2101. Coupling Rod Left Boss Front - Sheet 2102. Coupling Rod Left Boss Front - Sheet 2103. Coupling Rod Left Boss Centre - Sheet 2104. Coupling Rod Left Boss Centre - Sheet 2105. Coupling Rod Left Boss Rear - Sheet 2106. Coupling Rod Left Boss Rear - Sheet 2107. Coupling Rod Right Front - Sheet 2108. Coupling Rod Right Rear - Sheet 2109. Coupling Rod Right Front Overlay - Sheet 2110. Coupling Rod Right Rear Overlay - Sheet 2111. Coupling Rod Right Boss Front - Sheet 2112. Coupling Rod Right Boss Front - Sheet 2

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Page 7 Class 8C

113. Coupling Rod Right Boss Centre - Sheet 2114. Coupling Rod Right Boss Centre - Sheet 2115. Coupling Rod Right Boss Rear - Sheet 2116. Coupling Rod Right Boss Rear - Sheet 2

Connecting Rods117. Connecting Rod Left - Sheet 2118. Connecting Rod Left Overlay - Sheet 2119. Connecting Rod Right - Sheet 2120. Connecting Rod Right Overlay - Sheet 2121. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2122. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2123. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2124. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2

Slide Bars125. Slide Bar Left Upper Main - Sheet 1126. Slide Bar Left Lower Main - Sheet 1127. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1128. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1129. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1130. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1131. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1132. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1133. Slide Bar Right Upper Main - Sheet 1134. Slide Bar Right Lower Main - Sheet 1135. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1136. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1137. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1138. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1139. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1140. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1

Bogie141. Bogie Frame - Sheet 1142. Bogie Side Overlay - Sheet 1143. Bogie Side Overlay - Sheet 1144. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1145. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1146. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1147. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1148. Bogie Stretcher149. Spring Face Plate - Sheet 1150. Spring Face Plate - Sheet 1151. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1152. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1153. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1154. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1155. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1156. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1157. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1158. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1159. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1160. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1161. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1162. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1163. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1164. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1165. Hex Bolt Head - Sheet 1166. Hex Bolt Head - Sheet 1167. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1

168. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1169. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1170. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1

Cross Heads171. Cross Head Rear - Sheet 2172. Cross Head Rear - Sheet 2173. Cross Head Overlay - Sheet 2174. Cross Head Overlay - Sheet 2175. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2176. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2177. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2178. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2179. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2180. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2181. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2182. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2183. Cross Head Top Overlay - Sheet 2184. Cross Head Top Overlay - Sheet 2

Valve Gear185. Valve Rod Left Outer - Sheet 2186. Valve Rod Left Inner - Sheet 2187. Valve Rod Right Outer - Sheet 2188. Valve Rod Right Inner - Sheet 2189. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2190. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2191. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2192. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2193. Outer Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2194. Outer Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2195. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2196. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2197. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2198. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2199. Inner Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2200. Inner Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2201. Eccentric - Sheet 2202. Eccentric - Sheet 2203. Eccentric - Sheet 2204. Eccentric - Sheet 2205. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2206. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2207. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2208. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2209. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2210. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2211. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2212. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2213. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2214. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2215. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2216. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2217. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2218. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2219. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2220. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2221. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2222. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2223. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2224. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2225. Balance Arm - Sheet 2

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226. Valve Rod End - Sheet 2227. Valve Rod End - Sheet 2

Spares228. Alternative Cylinder Cover Left229. Alternative Cylinder Cover Right

Templates230. Eccentric Template - Sheet 2231. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3232. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3233. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3234. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3235. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3

EM Only236. Drwg. 230 EM Blanking Plates

Common Parts1. Reversing Axle Tube 1/16”x1/32” (1.6 mm x 0.8

mm) Eileen’s BRT0201G (50 mm supplied)2. Reversing Axle Rod 1/32” (0.8 mm) Eileen’s

BSW080A (20 mm supplied)3. Valve Rod Tube 3/32” x 1/16” (2.4 mm x 1.6 mm)

Eileen’s BRT0302G 300 mm (20 mm supplied)4. Valve Rod 1/16” (1.6 mm) Eileen’s BSW116A (120

mm supplied)5. Brake Spacers 1 mm long 1/16”x1/32” (1.6 mm x

0.8 mm) Eileen’s BRT0201G ( cut from tube - 6)6. Brass Wire 0.3 mm Eileen’s BSW031A (250 mm x2

supplied)7. Brass Wire 0.45 mm Eileen’s BSW045A (250 mm

x2 supplied)8. Brass Wire 0.7 mm Eileen’s BSW070A (250 mm x1

supplied)9. Coupling Rod Rivet Eileen’s 08MBV07B

Domehead Brass Rivet M0.8mm x 7mm 100 Pack(2 supplied)

10. Vacuum Pipe Markits (1 supplied)11. Steam Heating Pipe Markits (1 supplied)12. Drwg. 203 Footplate Side Cover (2 supplied)13. Drwg. 210 Centre Axle - drilling guide14. Drwg. 211 Counter Weight (1 supplied)15. Drwg. 212 Cylinder Front (2 supplied)16. Drwg. 215 Eccentric Plate (4 supplied)17. Drwg. 216 Rear Buffer (2 supplied)18. Drwg. 217 Reversing Axle - assembly guide19. Drwg. 218 Vacuum Cylinder (1 supplied)20. Drwg. 219 Bogie Pivot (1 supplied)21. Drwg. 225 Bogie Axle Box (4 supplied)22. Drwg. 209 Centre Axle Coil Spring (2 supplied)23. Brass Round Tube 0.8mm x 0.4 x 305mm (MT2)

Eileen’s BRT0804D (used for springs and smokebox hinges) (50 mm supplied)

24. 12 BA Bolts (2 supplied)25. 14 BA C/S (12 supplied)

P4 Only26. Spring Wire Ernie Ball Gauge 12 (2x200 mm

supplied)27. Drwg. 226 MarkitsRAXFBsq601 axle boxes (6

supplied)

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Locomotive Body

0.012’ 0.3 mm Brass

Boiler1. Boiler - Sheet 42. Boiler Front - Sheet 43. Boiler Rear - Sheet 44. Smoke Box Frame +EM- Sheet 65. Smoke Box +EM - Sheet 66. Smoke Box Wrapper - Sheet 57. Smoke Box Wrapper Riveted - Sheet 58. Smoke Box Step - Sheet 4

Footplate9. Footplate Left +EM - Sheet 6

10. Footplate Right +EM - Sheet 611. Footplate Rear +EM - Sheet 612. Footplate Front - Sheet 613. Footplate Hinge - Sheet 614. Footplate Hinge - Sheet 615. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 616. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 617. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 618. Valence Left - Sheet 419. Valence Right - Sheet 420. Splasher Side Left Front - Sheet 421. Splasher Side Left Centre - Sheet 422. Splasher Side Right Front - Sheet 423. Splasher Side Right Centre - Sheet 424. Not Defined25. Not Defined26. Splasher Top Left Front +EM - Sheet 627. Splasher Top Left Centre +EM - Sheet 628. Splasher Top Right Front +EM - Sheet 629. Splasher Top Right Centre +EM - Sheet 630. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 631. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 632. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 633. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 634. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 635. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 636. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 637. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 638. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 439. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 440. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 441. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 442. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 443. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4

Fire Box44. Fire Box - Sheet 445. Fire Box Cab - Sheet 446. Inspection Cover - Sheet 547. Inspection Cover - Sheet 548. Inspection Cover - Sheet 549. Inspection Cover - Sheet 550. Inspection Cover - Sheet 551. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 5

52. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 553. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 554. Fire Box Brace Sheet 5

Cab55. Cab Side Left - Sheet 556. Cab Side Left Overlays - Sheet 557. Cab Side Right - Sheet 558. Cab Side Right Overlays - Sheet 559. Cab Side Splasher Overlays - Sheet 560. Cab Side Splasher Overlays - Sheet 561. Cab Opening Edging Left Strip - Sheet 562. Cab Opening Edging Right Strip - Sheet 563. Cab Front - Sheet 564. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 565. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 566. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 567. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 568. Roof - Sheet 569. Reversing Arm Cab End - Sheet 470. Reversing Arm Chassis End - Sheet 471. Reversing Arm Cab Arm - Sheet 472. Reversing Arm Rear Actuator - Sheet 473. Reversing Arm Front Actuator - Sheet 474. Reversing Arm Front Actuator Top - Sheet 4

Cupboards75. Cupboard Left - Sheet 576. Cupboard Right - Sheet 577. Door Hinge - Sheet 578. Door Hinge - Sheet 579. Door Hinge - Sheet 580. Door Hinge - Sheet 581. Footboard Left - Sheet 582. Footboard Right - Sheet 583. Shelf Left - Sheet 584. Shelf Right - Sheet 585. Cab Handle - Sheet 586. Cab Handle - Sheet 587. Cab Handle - Sheet 588. Cab Handle - Sheet 589. Cab Floor - Sheet 5

Steps90. Centre Step Plate Left - Sheet 491. Centre Step Left Upper - Sheet 492. Centre Step Left Lower - Sheet 493. Centre Step Plate Right - Sheet 494. Centre Step Right Upper - Sheet 495. Centre Step Right Lower - Sheet 496. Rear Step Plate Left - Sheet 497. Rear Step Left Upper - Sheet 498. Rear Step Left Lower - Sheet 499. Rear Step Stabiliser - Sheet 4

100. Rear Step Plate Right - Sheet 4101. Rear Step Right Upper - Sheet 4102. Rear Step Right Lower - Sheet 4103. Rear Step Stabiliser - Sheet 4

Cylinders104. Cylinder Cover Left - Sheet 4

Class 8C

Page 10 Class 8C

105. Cylinder Cover Right - Sheet 4

Springs106. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4107. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4108. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4109. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4110. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4111. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4

Wheels112. Centre Wheel Weights - Sheet 5113. Centre Wheel Weights - Sheet 5114. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5115. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5116. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5117. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5

Bits and Pieces118. Lamp Bracket Top - Sheet 4119. Smoke Box Handle - Sheet 4120. Smoke Box Handle - Sheet 4121. Regulator Lever - Sheet 4122. Regulator Plate - Sheet 4123. Regulator Plate - Sheet 4124. Footplate Connection - Sheet 4125. Smoke Box Door Hinge - Sheet 4126. Cab Roof Blanking Plate - Sheet 5127. Ramsbottom Actuators - Sheet 4128. Ramsbottom Actuators - Sheet 4129. Ramsbottom Side Cover - Sheet 5130. Not Defined131. Not Defined

Assembly Aids132. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5133. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5134. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5135. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5136. Footplate Assembly Aid - Sheet 4137. Cab Assembly Aid - Sheet 5138. Cab Assembly Aid - Sheet 5139. Fire Box Support Aid - Sheet 5140. Fire Box Support Aid - Sheet 5141. Belpaire Filing Aid - Sheet 5

Common Parts1. Cab Roof Front Brace (‘L’) Eileen’s L01010D 1.0

mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied)2. Cab Roof Centre Brace (‘T’) Eileen’sT010101E 1.0

mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied)3. Cab Roof Rear Brace (‘L’) Eileen’s L01010D 1.0

mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied)4. Brass Wire 0.3 mm Eileen’s BSW031A £2.50 for

10 (250 mm x2 supplied)5. Brass Wire 0.45 mm Eileen’s BSW045A £2.50 for

10 (250 mm x2 supplied)6. Brass Wire 0.7 mm Eileen’s BSW070A £2.50 for

10 (250 mm x1 supplied)7. 12 BA Nuts (4 supplied)

8. Drwg. 203 Footplate Side Cover (2 supplied)9. Drwg. 205 Oil Boxes (6 supplied)

10. Drwg. 206 Sand Box Filler (2 supplied)11. Drwg. 258 Smoke Box Door (1 supplied)12. Washout Plugs Eileen’s LF4WP01 Pkt 25 £5.00 (8

supplied)13. Hand Rail Knobs Markits M4HRKM 2.0 mm Pkt 12

£2.40 (6 supplied)14. Hand Rail Knobs Markits M4HRKS 1.6 mm Pkt 12

£2.40 (3 supplied)15. Drwg. 229 Whistle Markits M4WhistGW2 (1

supplied)16. Drwg. 201 Backhead (1 supplied)17. GC Smokebox Door Handle M4SBDH4

GCR Class 8C18. Drawing 254 Dome Original (1 supplied)19. Drawing 251 Chimney Original (1 supplied)20. 4M778 Alan Gibson GCR 4 column

LNER B121. Drwg. 252 Chimney Flowerpot (1 supplied)or Drwg. 253 Chimney GCR Pseudo (1 supplied)

22. Drwg. 255 Dome Flattened (1 supplied)or Drwg. 266 Dome Angular (1 supplied)

23. Drwg. 228 Snifter (1 supplied)24. Drwg. 231 Ross Pop Safety Valves Markits

MASftyV7 £3.26 (1 pair supplied)

Additional Parts Required - not part of the kitWheels, motors and gears are a personal choice - these werethe ones used by the designer

25. Wheels Alan Gibson 4880B 6’ 8” Dia.26. Crank Pins 4M42B Alan Gibson27. Bogie Wheels G4842 3’ 6” Dia. Alan Gibson28. High Level Gear Box HighFlier 40:1 2mm shaft29. Mashima Motor 2mm shaft30. Buffers AG 4M4901 £5.00 set of four or 4M4909

or Markits LNER Stepped31. Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead

(M4CRHDSns)32. Markits Screw Couplings MCOUP/S

Recommended ToolIf 14 BA bolts are used to fix the cosmetic springsCSTB141 Carbon Steel Taper Tap 14BA Eileen’s £10.00

Recommended little helpersWood - 100mm x 20mm x 45mmBalsa - 3-4mm thickDress Makers PinsMiniature Bulldog Clips

Class 8C

Page 11 Class 8C

Main Frame PreparationNote

You may wish to leave the main frames in the fret whilepreparing them. I have found this a lot easier and only removethe frames from the fret when I am ready to join the framestogether

Note

There seems to be a little photographic evidence that when firstbuilt there were no visible, proud rivets on the frames under thesmoke box. Check photographs if this is of concern. Your designerhas assumed that the rivets should be pushed through - theymake a strong artistic statement ...

Before pushing out the rivets around the top of the frame underthe smoke box and those on the fire box sides you may wish totest the pressure needed using the spare half etched holes whichare on Sheet 1.

Note that the frames on this locomotive have a distinct bendinwards under the smoke box and this is modelled in P4 only.Since the frames need to be closer together for EM gauge, theymust remain straight and therefore a short piece of 0.45 mmwire should be soldered into the bend slot to strengthen theframe at this point.

Note - small radius running

On the inside of the frames above the position of the bogie arehalf etched lines. These indicate the cutting needed to allow thebogie to move much more than would be prototype practice. Ifyour curves are less than 1200 mm radius then these must be cutout. It is better to do this when the frames are assembled andhave some rigidity.

Push out the rivets under the smoke box, be careful with the toprow, they are close to the edge. Use the “Play Pen” area on Sheet2 to practice.

Drill out the frame stiffener locating holes to 0.3 mm in FrameLeft (1) and Frame Right (2), 5 each side - see picture right.

Measure the short handrail tails which will be used for thesprings (they will be about 0.65 mm diameter). Drill out the 6spring mount positions each side shown from the inside throughthe half etch marks (and marked as 0.65 mm in the picture onthe right) if you require active springing. Push the handrailssupplied into place on the inside of the frames, using a length of0.3 mm steel wire through the holes to align them and solderthem into place. Carefully file off the protruding tails on theoutside of the frames.

Drill out the holes for the cosmetic, removable springs, 4 eachside, which are located either side of the horn block spacing forthe front and rear axles only, to 0.80 mm to clear 16 BA c/s bolts(not supplied) or 1.05 mm to clear 14 BA c/s bolts (supplied).Carefully countersink the outer face very slightly for the fixingbolts.

Drill out the brake shaft holes, 3 each side, to 0.7 mm - seepicture right.

1. Frame Layout

9. C

ab B

ase

Supp

ort

Whe

el H

eigh

t Cen

tres

Sprin

g M

ount

s

Cosm

etic

Rem

ovab

le S

prin

gs

12,1

3,14

,15.

Rea

r Fra

me

Spac

er

16-1

8. C

entr

e Fr

ame

Spac

er

Reve

rsin

g Ar

m

19-2

1. V

alve

Gui

de

Brak

e Sh

aft

Brak

e Sh

aft

Brak

e Sh

aft

Spr

ing

Mou

nts

Cosm

etic

Rem

ovab

le S

prin

gs

38. F

ootp

late

Fix

ing

Brac

ket

Cut O

ut G

uide

s for

smal

l rad

ii ru

nnin

g

0.33

mm

0.33

mm

0.33

mm

0.33

mm

0.33

mm

0.7

mm

0.5

mm

0.5

mm

0.5

mm

0.5

mm

0.7

mm

0.7

mm

0.65

mm

0.65

mm

0.65

mm

0.65

mm

24,2

5. B

uffe

r Sup

port

s

11. S

mok

e Bo

x Ba

se

48. B

ogie

Mou

nt

26,2

7. S

and

Boxe

s

0.65

mm

0.65

mm

Sprin

g M

ount

s

10. F

ire B

ox B

ase

0.8

mm

Fire

Box

Fitt

ing

Hole

s

Class 8C

Page 12 Class 8C

Drill out the fire box fitting holes, 2 each side, to 0.45 mm - seepicture right.

Drill out the reversing arm holes to 0.8 mm - see picture right.

Drill out the fire box fitting holes to 0.45 mm, 2 each side.

Fire BoxNote

The firebox is inset from the sides of the frames as on theprototype. This is located into the inside of the frame usinglocating holes and brass wire.

Locate Fire Box Left (47), Fire Box Right (46) and Fire Box Brace(42) on the fret, drill the 0.45 mm holes in the fixing tabs, pressout the rivets from the back and then remove from the fret. Bendto shape and and solder into place inside the main frames using0.45 mm wire to locate them. Fit Fire Box Brace (44) at the frontof the fire box at the correct angle to match the front slope onlyif you are using the supplied P4 or EM spacers.

Scale frame cross membersLocate parts Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Left (14) and RearFrame Spacer Stiffener Right (15). Drill out the very smalllocating holes to 0.3 mm. Remove these parts from the fret andwith the aid of some 0.3 mm brass wire locate and solder intoplace on the inside of both frames.

Locate parts Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Left (17) and CentreFrame Spacer Stiffener Right (18). Drill out the very smalllocating holes to 0.3 mm. Remove these parts from the fret andwith the aid of some 0.3 mm brass wire locate and solder intoplace on the inside of both frames.

Locate parts Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Left (20) andValve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Right (21). Drill out thevery small locating holes to 0.3 mm and the larger holes to 0.7mm. Remove these parts from the fret and with the aid of some0.3 mm brass wire and some 0.7 mm brass wire for the larger,lower holes locate and solder into place on the inside of bothframes.

Generic frame cross membersOn Sheet 3 there are 2 generic cross members for either P4 orEM. You may wish to use these in place of the scale crossmembers. They are labelled as P4 or EM. Choose the locations

2.Fire Box

Left side shown with frontof chassis on the left of

picture

3. Main Frame Spacers

Half

view

- le

ft si

de o

nly

show

n

16-1

8. C

entr

e Fr

ame

Spac

er

12-1

5. R

ear F

ram

e Sp

acer

10. F

ire B

ox S

uppo

rt9.

Cab

Bas

e Su

ppor

t

Half

view

- le

ft si

de o

nly

show

n

19-2

1. V

alve

Gui

de S

pace

r11. S

mok

e Bo

x Ba

se

38. F

ootp

late

Fix

ing

Brac

ket

48. B

ogie

Mou

nt

Class 8C

Page 13 Class 8C

you prefer to use bearing in mind possible locations for pickup wiring and make a light pencil mark. Note that you will probablynot need more than one of these and that it must not interfere with the action of the Stephenson’s Valve Gear if that is fitted.

Connecting the frames togetherNote P4 Only

The frames have a half etch bend close to the front. Now is the time to very carefully bend this inwards (it is only 2 degrees), Usea pair of flat nosed pliers to hold the frames so that the elongated hole for the cylinder spacers is covered and will be held flat.The smoke box base is etched to allow for this bend.

Note

The etching process is not always accurate so it may be wise to lightly file the cusp from the spacers where they meet the framesbefore fitting, it is usually the tiniest bit that is needed. In an ideal world the width over the frames should be no more than 16.16mm for P4 and 14.80 for EM. Use +/- 0.1 mm as a general guide although it won’t hurt too much if a little more under sized.

Use the P4 or EM Width Templates (231-235) to check if you do not have a micrometer.

Only solder the next parts solidly into place after they have all been fitted and checked. Even with very light tacking the frameswill be solid enough work on.

Remove parts Cab Base Support (9 or 9EM), Fire Box Base (10 or 10EM), Smoke Box Base (11 or 1EM) and Bogie Mount (48 or48EM) from the fret, check the tabs are clean, bend to shape and one by one do a test fit into between the two frames. SmokeBox Base (11 or 1EM) should have an 8 BA nut soldered under it to enable the body and chassis to be screwed together. This canthen be done through the chimney or the Front Footplate Fixing Bracket (38).

Solder each of these parts into place very lightly starting with Cab Base Support (9 or 9EM). Ensure it is fitted the correct way,the larger holes are on the underneath and are there to fit the cab and upper body to the chassis.

Fire Box Base (10 or 10EM) should be fitted in place and initially soldered on one side only.

Remove parts Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM), Centre Frame Spacer (16 or 16EM), Rear Frame Spacer (12 or 12EM)and Rear Frame Spacer Brace (13 or 13EM). Solder these in place checking the width of the frames carefully after each one(16.20 mm for P4 and 14.80 for EM).

Once these are fitted and you are certain the frame is within the specified width then the Firebox Base (10 or 10EM) can besoldered up on both sides.

Ensure that the large holes in Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) are clear so that the 2.4 mm tubing can fit in them. TheSmoke Box Base (11 or 11EM), Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) and Bogie Mount (51 or 51EM) can now be added tothe frames.

Make sure there is no ‘fillet’ of solder on the upper side of Smoke Box Base (11) or the smoke box itself will not seat correctly.

Check the chassis is still square after soldering each part lightlyinto place.

Slide Bar SupportsLocate parts Slide Bar Support Left (22), Slide Bar SupportRight (23). Drill out the very small locating holes to 0.3 mmand the larger holes to 0.7 mm - the larger hole is also thebrake pivot axle. Remove these parts from the fret and withthe aid of the locating wires solder to the outside of bothframes noting that the stiffener part is to the rear of theframes.

Brake Frame MountsRemove parts Brake Frame Mounts (55-58) from the fret andsolder to the outside of the frames using 0.7 mm brass wire tolocate for the centre and rear wheels only. When trimmingthis 0.7 mm wire do not use a pair of cutters between theframes since this will seriously distort them. Use a disc cutteror a triangular file to grind away a cut in the centre.

4. Slide Bar Supports and Sand Box

Slide Bar Support Left (22)

Sandbox Left (26)

Class 8C

Page 14 Class 8C

Now add the brake spacers - these are used to ensure thebrake shoes are at the correct distance from the frames. Theyare made from brass tubing which is 1/16” x 1/32” (1.6 mm x0.8 mm ) and are 1 mm in length. Solder into place. Later, thebrake shoe assembly will simply clip over these.

Sand BoxesRemove parts Sandbox Left (26) and Sandbox Right (27) fromthe fret and fold to shape - locate the tabs just to the rear ofthe smoke box and solder lightly to the main frames.

Caveat

It will look nice if you fit the buffers next but it will be wrongbecause it may inhibit the ease with which the parts of thecylinders can be fitted such as when holes need to be reamedout slightly etc

CylindersNote

The Cylinder Spacers (7,8) have a number of guide holes in them. The inner pair are for the valve guide rod tubing. Just outside ofthese are two 0.3 mm holes which can be used as guides for locating the spacers accurately across the frames (use the inner pairof these for EM and the outer for P4). There are also two 0.45 mm holes each end which are used to locate the Cylinder Heads(52-55). The two rectangular holes locate the slide bars.

You may wish to consider using the Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead (M4CRHDSns) instead of the supplied cross head.

Drill out the 0.3 mm and 0.45 mm holes. Drill the larger, central, holes for the valve rod to 1.6 mm minimum, for an easier fit ofthe working valve gear this should be 1.8 mm. Drill or ream the large outer holes to 2.4 mm if you intend to use a tube down thecentre of the cylinders or 2.1 mm for the Markits crosshead.

Remove Cylinder Spacers (7,8) from the fret and fix into the correct position using 0.3mm brass wire as a guide, the outer holesare for P4 and the inner holes are for EM. The cylinder tubes fit in the central end holes with the two rectangular holes used tolocate the slide bars.

Drilling Note

When drilling out the cylinder heads it may help to stabilise them if you solder temporarily a length of 0.9 mm brass wire acrossone side since drilling them to 2.4 mm will put quite a strain on the tag holding them into the etch.

Drill the two small holes in Cylinder Heads (49-52) to 0.45 mm. Drill the large centre hole to 2.4 mm or for the Markits crosshead2.1 mm. Remove Cylinder Heads (49-52) from the fret and solder securely in place on the front of the front cylinder supportand the rear of the rear cylinder support using 0.45 mm brass wire to align them.

For the supplied crosshead, fit a length of 3/32” x 1/16” brass tube (2.4 mm x 1.6 mm) so that it is just proud at the front and is 2mm proud at the rear, 14 mm in total. Alternatively, for the longer version of the tail rods (removed before ‘grouping’) it may beuseful to make this longer so that if fits through the cylinder front and the 1.6 mm rod used to represent the actual tail rod willsit in it securely, although not too far down so that it restricts the cross head!

Slot short lengths of 1.6 mm rod through the inside holes of the Cylinder Spacers (7,8) so that it also runs through the ValveGuide Spacer (19). Then slot a short length of 2.4 mm tube into the Valve Guide Spacer (19) so that at the rear there is 2mmshowing and about 4 mm at the front. This will align the rods to the valve chest if fitted along with the Stephenson’s Valve Gearand simulates the bearing and oiler on the full size locomotive. Solder this in place and remove the 1.6 mm rod.

Slide BarsNote

Alternatively, the slide bars may be made up from 1 mm x 1 mm nickel silver bar, soldering one part on the top of the other andfiling to shape or using 2 mm x 1 mm bar and again filing to shape.

Parts 125-140 form Qty 4 identical slide bars. These are built up in four layers and soldered together with the aid of 0.3 mm brasswires to locate and secure the individual layers. These are then filed to the correct shape.

5.Cylinders and Slide Bars

Cylinder Spacers (7,8)

Cylinder Heads (49-52)

Slide Bar Assembly

Class 8C

Page 15 Class 8C

Note that the short layer at the top is positioned the correct way around!

Remove Slide Bar Left Upper Main (125) (long), Slide Bar Overlay (127) (long with half etch section), Slide Bar Overlay (128)(medium) and Slide Bar Overlay (129) (short) from the etch. Locate using 0.3 mm brass rod and solder up well using highmelting point solder with Nealetin as the flux - or similar.

Complete the other slide bar parts as above and file to correct profile. They should be 1 mm wide and at the deepest point1.2mm.

Insert a pair of slide bars into each side of the frames and check they locate correctly and not too tightly into the cylinder headrectangular slots with a small protrusion at the front. Ensure that they fit between the Slide Bar Supports (22,23).

Do not solder up at this stage, first the crossheads must be assembled and then tested for a smooth sliding fit! It is likely that asmall adjustment with a file will be needed to the slide bar supports to achieve the desired 4.66mm spacing all along the slidebars.

CrossheadsNote

An alternative to the crosshead assembly provided is the Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead (M4CRHDSns). However, whilethis looks very nice it is not deep enough between the slide bars, which means that the locating holes in the cylinder heads mustbe adjusted very slightly inwards. The upper and lower slots of the cross heads must be slightly widened to suit the slide bars.

The Crossheads provided are built up in layers. There are two outer layers (one of them partly half etched to show the profile),two inner layers one of which is half etched and two inside layers which are shaped to allow the Connecting Rods to partiallyrotate. All of these should be used unless you are confident ofgreat accuracy in which case the half etch layer may be left out.

Remove the two sets of Cross Head parts (171-184) from thefret and align each set locating them in place with a steel pin orsomething else suitable through the centre into several layers ofbalsa or other hardwood. If using hardwood such as Ramin thendrill a hole as deep as possible to suit the steel pin. In preferenceuse a higher melting point solder than normal and use lots ofheat. This will allow the parts to be re-aligned should they move.

Solder these layers together. Do not pick this up too soon, it willhave got very hot!

Trim and file to finish, the top and bottom edges should be fileddown to less than the depth of the slide bars. Do a test fit tomake sure these slide easily.

In the end of the cross heads drill a small hole 1.6 mm to acceptthe cross head rod which is 1/16” brass rod of length 25 mm.Solder this in place ensuring that the cross head is securely

7. Cross Heads

Cross Head Rear (171)

Cross Head Overlay (173

Cross Head Top Overlay (183)

Cross Head Inner Layers A

Cross Head Inner Layers B

6. Slide Bar Measurements

Class 8C

Page 16 Class 8C

clamped. Do a test fit to ensure it slides easily into thecylinder tubing.

Check the measurements for the sliding faces on thecrossheads - this should be 4.67 mm for the suppliedversion (equivalent to 1’ 2”). For the corresponding slidebars the distance between them is 4.8 mm. Ensure this isthe case, filing and trimming as needed. This will make anice close fit without being too tight - a little oil helps here.

File down the top and bottom carefully so that they do nothit the Slide Bar Supports (22,23) and can move freely alongthe length of the slide bars.

Coupling RodsNote

The coupling rods are a mirror pair - so take care that all theoil boxes end up at the top! The knuckle for the coupling rods forthis engine is to the rear of the centre axle.

A range of extra parts are provided either full depth or halfetched to be attached to the bosses on the coupling rods either tothe front or the rear. These will allow you to choose how far tooff-set the wheels from the coupling rods.

There is very little space behind the connecting rod in P4 so ifusing the Alan Gibson crank pins and locknuts then the leadinghole in the Coupling Rods Left and Right Front (97, 107) should beopened up to 1.8 mm so that the locknut can fit into into it inreverse. In Extremis is it just possible to open out the hole ineither top boss or the overlay to 2.5 mm so that the whole nut iscountersunk.

A better solution may be to use the crank pins designed by TimVenton (see Scalefour Society Forum). These are threaded andthe front one is countersunk into the coupling rods hole.

Drill 1.5 mm to 1.6 mm through all the other crank pin holes tosuit your crank pin bearings. The front crank pin is rather shorterthan on the other axles if the crank pin nut is reversed.

Drill out the coupling rods to suit your choice of crank pins.Remove Coupling Rod Left Front (97), Coupling Rod Left Rear(98), Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay (99), Coupling Rod LeftRear Overlay (100) from the fret. The rear coupling rods shouldoverlap the front coupling rods on both sides - use a folded uppiece of Rizla cigarette paper (or other suitable paper) with alittle light oil in the half etched ends to stop solder affectingthese parts.

Remove Coupling Rod Bosses (101-106) from the fret, select andsolder in place to inside and outside of main coupling rods.

Use a 0.8 mm rivet to fix the front and rear parts together,(lightly hammer in place or solder according to preference),ensuring that the joint is loose enough so that there is freemovement. A piece of 0.8 mm wire would do just as well if thesehave not been supplied.

Repeat for the right side coupling rods using parts (107-116).

Connecting RodsNote

9. Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Left Overlay (118)

Connecting Rod Left (117

Connecting Rod End Overlay (121)

Connecting Rod EndOverlay (122)

8. Coupling Rods

Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay (99)

Coupling Rod Rear Bosses

Coupling Rod Centre Bosses

Coupling Rod Bosses

Coupling Rod Left Front (97)

Coupling Rod Left Rear (98)

Coupling RodLeft RearOverlay(100)

Class 8C

Page 17 Class 8C

The Connecting Rods are a mirror pair.

Remove parts Connecting Rod Left (117), Connecting Rod LeftOverlay (118), Connecting Rod End Overlay (121) (square),Connecting Rod End Overlay (122) (round) from the fret andsolder together.

The hole which fits over the centre axle crank pin should beopened out to (1.5 mm to 1.6 mm) to suit your crank pin bearing.The small end of the Connecting Rod should fit inside theCrosshead Assembly and is secured with a 0.5 mm rivet (lightlyhammer in place or soldered on the rear according topreference). A short piece of 0.45 mm brass wire will suit as well.Leave the front slightly proud to represent the fixing bolt.

Repeat for the other connecting rod.

Buffers - rearNote

There is no reason why the buffer layers should not be made partof the foot plate and soldered to the ends of the footplate usingthe rear and front foot plates and the valences as a guide, whichmay make fitting body and chassis together a little easier. If thisis done the tabs on the ends of the frames should be carefullyfiled flat since they will no longer have a purpose.

The rear buffer has two layers. Drill holes 0.45 mm in Rear BufferBeam (5), Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6) and Rear Buffer HousingPlates (38,39). Drill large holes in Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6)and Rear Buffer Housing Plates (38,39) to 2.0 mm which willlocate the un-sprung rear buffers.

The Rear Buffer Beam (5) has two slots for the frames, the outerpair is for P4 and the inner pair is for EM.

Remove Rear Buffer Beam (5) from the fret and solder over theend of the frames ensuring it is the right way up, the two slotsare nearer the bottom.

Remove Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (4) from the fret and solderhalf etched Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6) in place again ensuringit is the right way up. The holes and slot are nearer the top.

Remove Rear Buffer Housing Plates (36,37) from the fret andsolder into place. Ream out the central holes and fit the Cast orturned Rear Buffers.

Remove Rear Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate (41) from the fret andsolder it in place to match the draw plate slot.

Fit Drwg. 216 Rear Buffers in place and solder.

Buffers - frontNote

The Buffer Mounts (32,33) are optional. When first built theywere not fitted but were added later. If fitting the Gibsonrecommended buffers then the overlay for the front buffer shouldbe reamed out so that the the buffer will fit flush just inside theoverlay. The four small holes in the corner may be used to locatethe buffer mounts and again optionally, the Gibson buffers maybe drilled out in each corner to 0.3 mm so that the fixing boltsmay be simulated.

11. Rear Buffer B (from front)

Slots for frame tabs (P4 outer)

Slots for frame tabs (EM inner)

Front Buffer Beam (3)

Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4)

Frames - shown inP4 mode - curvedinwards

12. Front Buffer A

Front Buffer BeamDraw Bar Plates

(39,40)

Buffer Mounts (32,33)

10. Rear Buffer A (from rear)

Rear Buffer Beam (5)

Rear Buffer BeamOverlay (4)

Rear Buffer Housing Plates (36,37)

Rear Buffer BeamDraw Bar Plate (41)

Drwg. 216 Rear Buffers

Class 8C

Page 18 Class 8C

The front buffer has two layers. To simulate the bolts that holdthe buffers to the buffer beam drill the locating holes in FrontBuffer Beam (3), Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4) and BufferMounts (34,35) to 0.3 mm.

Remove Front Buffer Beam (3), Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4),Buffer Support Left (24), Buffer Support Right (25) and BufferMounts (32,33) from the etch.

Solder the buffers to Buffer Mounts (32,33) then drill through 0.3mm from the rear for the corner fixing bolts.

Remove Foot Plate Fixing Bracket (38) from the fret and fitbetween the frames, (this will match the front of the foot platewhen the body is all but finished). An alternative is to screwthrough the chimney.

Fix the Front Buffer Beam in place to the frames at the sametime as the Buffer Supports noting that the buffer beam slot iscloser to the top. Check the front buffer beam is square since forP4 the frames have a distinct bend at 4’ from the front bufferand if the bend if different at each side the buffer will not becentral. P4 and EM modellers use the same front slot for theframes.

Ensure the Front Buffer Beam (3) is flat and then using 0.3 mmbrass wire and a couple of clamps locate the buffers, Front BufferBeam Overlay (4) and Buffer Mounts (34,35) and solder carefullyinto place. Trim off the 0.3 mm wire to represent the bolt headson the buffers.

Remove Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plates (39,40) from thefret, clean up where needed and solder into place.

Remove Couplers (34,35) from the fret and solder into the frontbuffer beam.

Brake Cylinder SupportRemove parts Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29) from the fret, drillthe smaller hole to 0.45 mm (this takes the safety chain link tothe tender) and drill the larger hole to 1.0 mm for the actuatingaxle for the brakes.

Solder into place under Cab Base Support (3) and check they aresquare to this base.

Fit the cast/turned/printed Drwg. 218 Vacuum Cylinder.

Stephenson’s Valve GearNote

The Stephenson’s Valve gear consists of mirror images of parts onthe centre axle. They can be configured to work by locking themto the centre axle or may be left to rotate freely.

Make sure that the correct parts are on the outside or theeccentrics may become twisted. Also note that parts for theeccentric have a ‘tab’ on them and additional fixing holes to helpin getting them soldered up. After soldering these and beforefitting into the main motion these tabs are filed to the correctshape. High melting point solder is recommended. Brass wire 0.3mm is used to locate the parts accurately.

For parts 185-200 drill out all the locating holes to 0.3 mm.

14. Brake Cylinder Supports

Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29)

Left frame only shown, CabBase and Rear Buffer

15. Valve Gear Outer Rod

Valve Rod Right Outer (187)

Outer Rod End Strips (189,190)

Outer Rod Spacer (193)

16. Valve Gear Inner Rod

Valve Rod Right Inner (188)

Inner Rod Spacer (199)

Inner Rod End Strips (195,196)

Buffer Supports (25,26)

Foot Plate FixingBracket (38)

13. Front Buffer B

Class 8C

Page 19 Class 8C

Valve Rods

Start with the valve gear for the right hand side.

Remove Valve Rod Right Outer (187) and Valve Rod Right Inner(188) from the fret. With a small piece of wet and dry paper easeout the large holes to 5.7 mm so that they revolve easily roundthe brass eccentric plates (Drwg. 215).

Remove Outer Rod End Strips (189,190) and Outer Rod Spacer(193) from the fret and using a 0.3 mm piece of brass wire locatethese parts as shown and solder up.

Remove Inner Rod End Strips (195,196) and Inner Rod Spacer(199) from the fret and using a 0.3 mm piece of brass wire locatethese parts as shown and solder up.

Eccentric

Note

Since these parts are the ones that tend to get either lost in thecarpet or are difficult to solder together a rear tag with an extralocating hole is provided for them.

For the eccentric itself (201,204) drill out the holes at each end to0.6 mm. These will fit on to the Lifting Arms.

Remove the eccentric parts 201-212 from the fret, complete withtheir extensions and use 0.3 mm wire to locate them and soldertogether as shown in the diagram.

Clean up as much as possible and cut and file the rear of theeccentric assembly to shape.

Lifting Arms

For Lifting Arms (213-216), Rotation Arms (217-220), RotationArm End Spacers (221,224) drill out the smaller holes to 0.5 mmand the larger holes in the bottom end of Lifting Arms (213-216)to 0.7 mm. This is the end that is locked through the centre ofthe eccentric.

Steam Chest Rods

Remove Valve Rod Ends (226,227) from the fret and roll round apiece of 1.6 mm brass rod on which the ends have been filed flatover a length of 2 mm, drill through the locating holes and fix inplace by soldering. The flat should be such that the width of thefinished sub-assembly is no greater than 1.6 mm.

At this stage with a little judicious fettling it should be possible(but only just) to slide this up and down the eccentric. It may beeasier to leave this in the fully up or fully down position sincethey may never move when the engine is running.

Fit short lengths of 2.4 mm brass tubing (ideally this should be 4mm long) into Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) andusing some 1.6 mm brass rod, align it through the CylinderSpacers (7,8) ensuring that the rod slides very easily.

Brass Plates

In Drwg. 215 Eccentric there are four plates which fit either sideof Valve Rod Outers (185,187) and Valve Rod Inners (186,188).There is Eccentric Template (230) on the fret which can be used

17. Valve Gear Eccentric

18. Final Eccentric Shape

19. Lifting Gear

Main Eccentric (203,204)

Eccentric Bracket 205,206)

Eccentric Short Brackets (209,210)

Lifting Arms (213-214)

Rotation Arms (217-218)

Rotation Arm End Spacers (221,222)

20. Valve Rod

Valve Rod End(226)

1.6 mm Brass Rod

21. Overview of eccentric and lifting gear

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Page 20 Class 8C

to mark the holes to be drilled. Check that the brass plates will sitin the hole in the template, using a bit of wet & dry to ease asneeded. Remove this from the fret and fold over with the halfetch on the outside and solder up.

Lay the brass plates in the template ensuring the centre mark isabsolutely central and lightly mark the small holes by drilling witha 0.45 mm drill.

At this stage it should be possible to do a trial fit with a 3 mmdrill, using a couple of lengths of 0.45 mm wire to fix in place.Check the plates can rotate within Valve Rod Outers and ValveRod Inners without any friction.

There are two ways to fix these permanently, both of which haveproved satisfactory under test. Short lengths of 0.45 mm wire canbe soldered either side of the plates or the second plate can bedrilled out to 0.8 mm and the front counter sunk for a 16 BA bolt.The first plate is then drilled to 0.6 mm and tapped to 16 BA anda couple of 16 BA counter sunk screws fitted and trimmed off.

Once fixed and solid the centre hole should be carefully reamedout to 1/8” to make an interference fit over the axle.

The connectors at the eccentric end of the rod may be trimmeddown to represent a curved connection.

Now do it all again for the left side mechanism.

Reversing Axle and Balance WeightThe Counterweight Weight Drwg. 211 will need a 1.2 mm holedrilled in the side halfway along into which can be solderedBalance Arm (225).

Note

For completeness of the reversing axle description the ReversingArm Chassis End (70), Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73) andReversing Arm Rear Actuators (72,73) are mentioned here. Theseare in Brass and are on Sheet 4. Reversing Arm Front Actuator(73) should be fitted just inside the right frame over the 0.8 mmaxle.

Fold Reversing Arm Front Actuator (72) to create a bend whileleaving Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73) is flat. The ReversingArm Chassis End (70) fits inside the open end.

The measurements shown in the diagram of the axle are exactand it may be necessary to slightly undercut the spacers in orderto fit the eccentric lifting assemblies and the Balance Arm (274).

BrakesNote

All the holes in the brake parts 55-97 are 0.45 mm - make surethese are clear. A couple of pieces of balsa wood will aid assemblyby forcing brass locating wires through the parts and into thebalsa.

Brake Shoes

Solder Brake Shoe Bases (81-86) to Brake Shoe Top Layer (87-92)using 0.45 mm brass wire to locate them with respect to eachother.

22. Assembly of brass plates

Right Inner

Right Outer

Eccentric

Brass Eccentric PlatesDrwg. 216

23. Reversing Axle A

Rotation Arms (217-220)

Balance Arm (225)

Reversing ArmActuators - see

brass etches

CounterweightWeight Drwg.

211

Lifting Arms (213,214)

1.6mm tube cutas spacers on

8mm rod

24. Reversing Axle B

25. Brake Shoe Assembly

Brake Mount (55)

Brake MountTop Layer (75)

Brake Shoe Base (81)

Brake Shoe TopLayer (87)

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Page 21 Class 8C

Make up the brake shoes from Brake Mounts (69-74) and BrakeMounts Top Layer (75-80) sitting these over the Brake ShoeBases and Brake Shoe Top Layers using the 0.45 mm brass wireto help locate them. These are layered as shown in thediagram.

Trim the 0.45 mm wire to represent the fixing bolts.

Main Brake Assembly

Remove Brake Pull (61) and the supporting brackets (62-67)from the fret. Assemble as shown using 0.45 mm brass wire tolocate the parts making sure the right bits point to the front.Trim the locating wires to represent the fixing bolts.

The rear split hinge is simply a piece of 1.6 mm brass tubesoldered to the rear of the Brake Pull (61) and its Brake PullRear Brackets (62,63). Once fitted this can be cut centrally toallow Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) to be fitted.

Ensure the brake shoe assemblies will fit over the ends of theBrake Pull (61) - gently filing the rectangular ends as needed.Note that the set next to the Valve Guide Spacer may needtrimming with a file so that it lies tight against the Slide RailSpacer at the correct angle.

Rear Brake Assembly

Remove Brake Cylinder Links (93, 94) from the fret, bend toshape so that Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) will fit between them.

Remove Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) from the fret and soldertogether. Pin to Brake Cylinder Links (93, 94) using a short pieceof 0.45 mm brass wire. Connect Vacuum Cylinder Link (68) to fitbetween the two upper arms.

Test Fitting

Using a short piece of 1.0 mm brass wire locate the rear brakeassembly between the Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29) underthe frames so that the Vacuum Cylinder Link (68) fits into theVacuum Cylinder.

Clip the main brake assembly into place, pushing the bottom ofthe front brakes right up against the Valve Guide SupportSpacer (20). Solder the brake shoes to Brake Pull (61).

It should now be possible to connect the front and rear brakeassemblies through the split hinge on the rear of the mainbrake assembly using a piece of 0.8 mm brass wire.

By removing this piece of wire and unclipping the main brakeassembly it should be a simple matter to drop out the wheelswhen needed.

Put all these to one side until final assembly and painting.These parts are easily damaged.

Drag LinkNote

The drag link is optional, this is just how it is done on theprototype. The chequered plate between the tender andlocomotive may be simply hooked on the front of the tenderusing a couple of pieces of wire.

26. Brake Assembly Pull Rod

Brake Pull (61)

Brake Pull RearBrackets (62,63)

Brake Pull Front Bracket(66,67)

Brake Pull CentreBrackets (64,65)

Hinge - 1.6 mmtube

27. Vacuum Cylinder Connection

Vacuum Cylinder Link (68)

Brake Cylinder Link (93,94)

Rear Brake Pull (95,96)

28. Brake Assembly Overview

Class 8C

Page 22 Class 8C

Remove Drag Links (43-45) from the fret and solder together. A 5mm pin through the Cab Base Support (9) front hole will hold it inplace. This should be made removable, there is room under thecab floor.

The tender end of the drag links should be rounded off, trimmedto a suitable length and a thread cut over the last 10 mm tomatch the fixing position in the tender. With a weak spring fittedthis will give a convincing movement when the locomotive startswith a heavy load.

Guard IronsRemove Guard Iron Left (30) and Guard Iron Right (31) from thefret, bend to shape and solder in place on the insides of theframes ensuring the front face is vertical and the inset on thefront edge fits just under the bottom of the front buffer beam.

Front BogieNote

The Adams Bogie rotates around a central pin and can move sideto side under spring control. This is combined with thecompensating beams fitted on either side of the frame on top ofthe axle boxes.

The Adams Bogie was used in many locomotive classes includingthe LNER G5 of which a new one is being built. See picture. Whilethis is not identical to the one in the kit there are manysimilarities.

Bogie Frame

Push through the rivets on the reverse of the Bogie Frame (141)and drill out the four end holes to 0.9 mm.

Solder the Bogie Side Overlays (142,143) in place using a piece of0.7 mm brass wire to locate them accurately.

Remove Bogie Frame (141) and Bogie Side Overlays (142,143)from the fret and fold as shown. Note that the outer bends arefolded back with the half etch on the outside since the fold is afull 180 degrees. Ensure this is square before soldering.

Use a piece of 0.9 mm wire to act as a fixing strap across thefront and rear of the bogie. Leave about 1 mm proud torepresent the end nuts.

Drill out the 12 holes in Bogie Stretcher (148) to 0.3 mm. Theseare a set of alternative fittings for the wire that will spring thewheels.

Remove Bogie stretcher (148) from the fret, bend to shape andsolder in place underneath Bogie Frame (141) so that theelongated hole is properly aligned, trying not to block the springholes with solder.

Equalising Bars

Note

The pairs of equalising bars fit outside the springs to give animpression of real depth although for EM modellers it is better tomake these much thinner and only use one spring layer.

29. Bogie Main Frame

Bogie Frame (141)

Bogie Side Overlays (142,143)

30. Bogie Stretcher

Bogie stretcher (148)

31. Bogie Equaliser Bars

Equalising Bars (144-147)

Bogie Spring Hangers (167-170)

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Page 23 Class 8C

The Equalising Bars (144-147), Spring Face Plate (149,150) andSpring Backing Plates (151-156) have locating holes to helpassemble them. Drill these out to 0.3 mm.

Remove Equalising Bars (144-147), Spring Face Plate (149,150)and Spring Backing Plates (151-156) from the fret, fold theEqualising Bars as shown and solder the tips, which sit on top ofthe axle boxes, together.

Solder Spring Face Plate (149) and Spring Backing Plates (1151-154) together for one side and then repeat for the other side.

Solder the equalising bars and springs to the side/top of the mainbogie with the springs between the pairs of equalising bars andthe half etched leaf spring showing. Remove Bogie SpringHangers (167-170) from the fret if required and use a piece of0.45 mm wire to locate.

Drill out the bottom holes in Bogie Frame (141), the holes inBogie Side Overlays (142,,143) and the holes in the Bogie Pivots(157-164) to 0.7 mm.

Remove Bogie Pivots (157-164) from the fret and solder up thein two sets, making sure the central hole is cleared to 0.7 mm,file them square and then solder in place over the Bogie SideOverlays (142,143). Trim and file the 0.7 mm brass wire proud ofthe surface then remove the Hex Bolt Heads (165,166) from thefret and solder these in place.

And finally for the Bogie

Add side play steel spring control to front fixing strap so that itfits around the Drwg. 225 Bogie Pivot which sits in Bogie Mount(48).

Glue Qty 4 Drwg. 225 Bogie Axle Box in place but check they arenot over the B-B for your gauge.

Add wheels and check the B-B. If needed the front of the axleboxes may be carefully reduced.

Add Ernie Ball Gauge 12 steel wire for wheel springs - theseshould fit lightly over the axles and through one of the holes inBogie Stretcher (148) depending on the downwards forcerequired.

Add the turned Bogie Pivot (Drwg. 219) to the underside ofBogie Mount (48) on the chassis so that the long part will hangthrough the bogie when it is fitted. Add thin washers whentesting to increase downwards force if needed.

Fitting wheelsNote

This is where a small block of wood will come in handy sincesoldering the axle boxes and their spring covers on top of it willcause them to stick slightly to the wood and thus make it easierto add the brass tubing for the spring wire.

Solder brass parts Axle Box Spring Mount (106-111) over Drwg.226 Horn Blocks. These parts are on Sheet 4. EM Modellers mayuse the EM Blanking Plates on Sheet 3 if springing is not needed.

Cut some short lengths of the 0.8 mm x 0.4 mm tube simply byrolling a sharp knife over it, it will cut very easily and solder these

32. Bogie Springs And Hangers

Spring Backing Plates (151-156)

Spring Face Plate (149,150)

33. Bogie Completed

34. Bogie Completed Underneath

35. Axle Box FrameAxle Box Spring Mount (106-111)

Drwg. 226 Markits Horn Block

0.8mm x

Class 8C

Page 24 Class 8C

to the tabs - there is a small notch on the tab to indicate the ideal height. Ensure the hole is free by test drilling with a 0.3 mmdrill.

Clean up and ensure that they are a good fit and will slide easily, but not loosely, in the chassis. The brass tubes should bebetween the Axle Box Spring Mounts (106-111) and the chassis frames. If you are fitting the internal valve gear then fitting thefirst and second wheel assembly to the chassis may be fiddly. It will help to file off a small triangle for the front and centre axleson the frames, but no more than 1 mm on a side.

The spring wire supplied is 12 gauge steel guitar string from Ernie Ball. This will fit in the handrail knobs on the insides of theframes.

Add wheel weights, fitting them opposite to the crank pin will usually be correct ( but see photographs for details). The centrewheel weights are the larger pair. Use Araldite sparingly for best results.

Note that Gibson wheels will need the rear boss filed off carefully so that they fit as close to the frames as in the prototype.

Driving Axles side playFront wheel - as little as possible since there is only a very small space between the coupling rod and the back of the connectingrod. Use a full width spacer. For the centre Wheel use half width spacers

Fit crank pins to wheels and fit wheels to axles, quarter until satisfied

Fit coupling rods, rear pair only to start and check there is no binding. Then add the front axle to the combination and checkagain. Try this with a motor fitted.

Add connecting rods, check they are a free fit in the slide bars before fitting to the centre axle.

Fit reversing axle in place with Drwg. 211 Counter Weight.

Valve Gear (if fitted)Slide the Stephenson’s Valve Gear on to the centre axle and either fix in place with something like ‘Loctite’ or use a brass pinthrough the axle and solder the brass plate inners to these. Alternatively allow the valve gear to revolve freely by reaming outabove the 1/8 axle diameter.

The valve gear must be free to rotate without any binding before any attempt at fitting coupling rods is made. If there is a pointwhere binding is felt, it is usually at the eccentric.

Fit the gear box over the rear axle.

Slide the axle boxes into position one by one and check there is a good sliding fit.

Plan to secure the Stephenson’s valve gear around the front axle but it is better to leave the bottom connection as a removableone using 16 BA C/H nuts and bolts.

Fitting furniture for the chassisFit front buffers and springs.

Add 0.9 mm brass wire as a sanding pipes to both side - front wheel only, the rear wheels on this locomotive are done from thetender.

Araldite in place Drwg. 212 Cylinder Front - note that Cylinder Cover (97,98) are supplied with extras and are on the N/S etchand on the brass etch. These should be soldered in place at the same time to ensure a good fit. Drwg. 212 Cylinder Fronts aredrilled to 2.4 mm, a short piece of tube should be fitted with 1.6 mm rod inside to represent the tail rods (long or short).

Centre Axle Spring Drwg. 209 if fitted should be super-glued to the bottom of the centre axle box or the EM Blanking Plate iffitted.

Motor, DCC Chip and pickupsFit motor and test run the mechanism until satisfied everything runs freely. For modellers of the DCC persuasion there are manyto choose from. You may wish to use one of the additional functions to drive a RED LED in the firebox.

Fit as many pickups as possible and wire up. There is plenty of space under the motor for a small piece of PCB.

Class 8C

Page 25 Class 8C

Window Overlays (64-67)Cab Front (63)

Cab Side Left (55)

Edging Strip (61)

Cab Side Overlay (56)

Cab Side Splasher Overlay (59)

Half etch frominside to centrethe brass numberplate

36. Cab FrontBody WorkNotes

Parts are included for P4 and EM for both these variants. Takecare not to get the P4 and EM parts confused.

The metal used is 0.3 mm brass. This is delicate, especially sowith these style of locomotives where the foot plates are quitenarrow. Take care when drilling by using a pin chuck, not apower drill. A number of parts are best assembled while thelarger part is still attached to the fret.

Cab FrontsWith a very sharp blade and a slicing motion remove theWindow Overlays (64-67) from the fret. There are double thequantity needed. Clean these up using a very fine file whileholding the very fragile part in a pair of flat nosed pliers.

Apply some solder paste around the insets on Cab Front (63)and solder them into place.

Remove Cab Front (63) from the fret.

Cab SidesNote

On the inside of the cab sides there is a half etch mark which isat the centre of the brass number plate if fitted.

Drill through the half etch number plate mark 0.45 mm on CabSides (55,57) if you intend to fit a pair of the GCR brassnumbers. Drill the cab side rail holes to 0.45 mm, note that thehand rail was set forwards when side screens were fitted, sochoose the right pair.

Remove Cab Side Overlay (56) and Cab Side Splasher Overlay(59) from the fret and using solder paste, solder into the halfetched sections of the Cab Side (55). These will represent thebrass beading on the splasher and cab side.

Remove Cab Side Left (55) from the fret and gently file roundthe cab opening to remove spurious bits of metal .

Remove Edging Strip (61) from the fret and solder around thecab opening. Do this a very small part at a time and ensurethat the holes at each end line up vertically for the cab sidehand rail.

Repeat for Cab Side Right (57).

Fit cast number plates if required using the guide hole drilledearlier.

FootplateRemove Footplate Assembly Aid (136) from the fret, drill outthe holes to 0.45 mm, fold up at a right angle and solder firmly.This piece is used to separate the foot plates at the correctdistance using locating holes towards the front of thefootplate. On the foot plates these holes later become thelocation for oil boxes and sand box fillers. The semi-circularrecess in Footplate Assembly Aid (136) will help locate theboiler later on and should be towards the rear.

0.45 mm for hand rail

0.45 mm

37. Cab Side (Left)

38. Cab Side (Left) Inside View

Class 8C

Page 26 Class 8C

Balsa Base

Footplate Assembly Aid (136)

Cab Sides (55,57)

Foot plates (9,10)

Cab Assembly Aids (137,138)

Select the correct footplate pair, Foot Plate Left(9) and Footplate Right(10) or if modelling in EMFoot plate Left (9EM) andFootplate Right (10EM).Drill the holes to matchFootplate Assembly Aid(136) to 0.45 mm and thefoot plate grab rail holes to0.3 mm. Remove FootPlate Left (9) andFootplate Right (10) fromthe fret.

Using a couple of pieces ofbalsa as a base lightlysolder Footplate AssemblyAid (136), Foot plate Left(9) and Footplate Right(10) together. The rear endof the footplate shouldoverhang the balsa byabout 20 mm. It is worthwhile checking thisassembly is square. The width should be 33.0 mm +0 mm -0.2mm. Use brass pins into the balsa to hold this in place.Subsequent work will lock this in place and the measurementis just a guide.

Fitting Cab SidesRemove Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) from the fret, fold at aright angle and solder up.

Insert Cab Sides Left (55) and Cab Side Right (57) into thefootplate using the front and centre slots only. The rear tabshould overhang the balsa. Use Cab Assembly Aids (137,138)as shown to assist in getting these vertical.

FireboxNote

The front of the fire box will need filing to shape, there is atemplate supplied but it is simple to do this by eye. There aretwo ways to prepare for this - read on.

Either way the fire box front curve is bulked up will cause theassembly to get rather warm. Use clips to hold the parts firmlyand insulate when holding the parts.

The simple way to prepare the front of the fire box for filing isto drop some solder in the corners, covering the area with fluxand then slowly add more solder with a very hot iron.

A better way may be to use Fire Box Braces (51-54) to build upa solid foundation.

Filing this area will allow the correct fire box curve at the front.Use Belpaire Filing Aid (141) to guide the filing, better to havetoo little than too much removed.

Remove Fire Box (44) from the fret and carefully remove alltags but even more carefully leaving the Tabs that will locate

0.3 mm Hand Rail

0.45 mm

Cab Front (63)

40. Footplate and Cab (2)

39. Footplate and Cab

41. Fire Box Bracing

Fire Box Support Aid (139)

Fire Box Braces (51-54)

Class 8C

Page 27 Class 8C

this into the front of the cab. If you plan to use the AGRamsbottom Safety Valves, there is a half etch mark on theinside that should be drilled out to suit.

Remove Fire Box Support Aids (139,140) from the fret. Drillout the four holes in each to 0.45 mm and drill out thecorresponding holes in the side parts of the fire box. Roll themain fire box to shape using a piece of 4 mm rod (or a drill)with the half etch on the inside and bend the side and topparts inwards, locate it with the Fire Box Support (139) andlightly solder. This may be removed later once the assembly ofthe fire box is finished.

If you wish to bulk up the inside of the fire box then removeFire Box Braces (51-54) from the fret and insert into the insideof the fire box using the same 0.45 mm wires to locatesecurely and accurately - then solder up using lots of heat.

Now curve the splasher part of the cab front that fits over thewheels to shape using the fire box as a guide, it is better thatthis is slightly over-curved since it will be easier to solder inplace. Note also that the curve starts just below therectangular hole for the reversing lever. The half etch at thebottom should just fit onto the footplate.

Locate the fire box into the front of the cab using the six slotsprovided - take care that the fire box sits flush since it will bedifficult to adjust later.

Repeat this with the part of the fire box that fits inside the cab.Remove Fire Box Cab (45) and the second Fire Box Support(Aid 140). There is only one tab which locates centrally at thetop.

Once the fire box is secure and square, solder can be runround the various joints.

If you want to fit the Inspection Covers (46-50) (not alwaysfitted - see photographs) to the curved part of the fire boxthen remove Inspection Covers (46-50) from the fret, curve toshape and solder in place. These are fitted along the centre ofthe curved part of the boiler and at 3 mm, 13 mm and 23 mmfrom the front of the cab on the left and 8 mm and 20 mmfrom the front of the cab on the right side. These have anominal spacing of 2’ 6”.

Add Washout Plugs (8) to both sides of the fire box.

Fitting Cab Front & SidesPosition the cab front BETWEEN the cab sides. The half etchend on the end of the splasher will lie flat on the footplate.Very lightly solder the top corners first to get the positioncorrect and then slowly complete the soldering around thecurve.

Front and Centre SplashersRemove Splasher Sides (20-23) from the fret and solder ontothe footplate ensuring that the half etch representing thebrass trim is on the outside.

Remove Splasher Tops (26-29) from the fret, roll to shape sothat the half etch parts are on the inside of the curve, bendingover the half etch ends so they will lie flat on the footplate and

42. Fire Box Arrangement

Fire Box Cab (45)

Fire Box (44)

InspectionCovers (46-50)

Washout Plugs (8)

Fire Box Support Aid (140)

43. Fire Box Arrangement Inside Cab

44. Splashers

Splasher Sides (20-23)

Splasher Tops (26-29)

Class 8C

Page 28 Class 8C

CabCupboardLocating

Tabs

Frames

Foot Plate Rear (11)12 BA Nuts on top

46. Rear Footplate and Cab Floor

Hinges (77,78)

Position of FootBoard Left (81)

Position of Shelf Left (83)

Door Knob 0.3 mm brass

solder into place. Note that the splasher tops fit level with thetop of the Splasher Sides and NOT on top of them!

Note that the rear pair of the splashers should be trimmed sothat they fit between the Splasher Side and the Fire Box sidesince they will not fit under the fire box side.

Rear Foot PlateRemove Footplate Rear (11) from the fret and fold up thecentre section, the tabs of which will act to locate the CabFloor (89).

Ease the slot out that will fit over the chassis frames with alittle wet & dry. Footplate Rear (11) can now be slid onto thechassis over the ends of the frames. Solder a couple of 12 BAnuts in place on the top so that the chassis and body can bescrewed together later. Check the holes are in line and areclear.

Roll the half etched section into a curve to form the front endof the footplate, noting that the half etched parts will be onthe underside, trim very slightly if needed. The end should situnder the end of the foot plate.

Cab FloorRemove Cab Floor (89) from the etch and fold up the threeends so that they will lift the cab floor from the rear footplate.Bend upwards, by about 45 degrees, the two side pieces, thesewill curve so that they become part of the splasher inside thecab. The slots in these curved parts will locate on the tabs ofthe part of the fire box inside the cab.

Cab CupboardsSolder a couple of Door Hinges (77-80) on each of the CabCupboards (75,76) over the holes and add a 0.3mm piece ofwire to represent the threaded part of the hinge.

Drill through the door knob holes 0.3 mm. Solder in a shortpiece of 0.3 mm brass wire to represent the door knob.

Remove Cab Cupboards (75,76) from the fret and fold toshape and check that they locate into the slots in Cab Floor(89). Very lightly solder in position.

Remove Footboards (81,82) and Shelves (83,84) from the fretand fold with the half etch on the inside (this is to give theimpression of a curved edge to the wooden boards). Solder orglue in place on the bottom part of the cupboards and the toppart of the cupboards respectively. Ensure there is a smalloverlap at the rear. The reversing gear will sit on top of theright shelf.

Check that the cupboards will lock in place using the twobottom tabs but don’t solder up yet. The outside of thecupboards sits against the cab sides, so check the assembliesfit comfortably. The cupboards should be easily removable forpainting if needed.

Cupboard Left (75)

45. Rear Footplate

Rear Footplate (11) locating tabs fit here

47. Cupboards

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Page 29 Class 8C

Roof Blanking Plate (126) - if required

‘T’ Shape BraceRoof (68)

‘L’ Shape Brace

Cab RoofNote

The cab roof has ‘T’ and ‘L’ sections which are from milledbrass. These can be bent carefully to shape but it is easier toanneal these first and then bend them.

Remove Roof (68) from the fret and curve to shape.

The hole in the roof should be to the front and is for thewhistle. The whistle was later moved to the front of the cabwhen the LNER reclassified the locomotives. In this caseremove Roof Blanking Plate (126) from the fret, push out therivets and solder on top of the roof.

Anneal the shaped brass ‘L’ and ‘T’ sections using the domesticgas cooker jets or similar when the management is attendingto other matters.

Curve the ‘L’ shaped brass and solder to the front and rear ofthe roof. There is a short piece of ‘L’ that fits between thefront and rear sections.

Curve the ‘T’ shaped brass and solder to the centre of the roofor centre it at 11.5 mm from the front to be accurate.

Check the roof fitting but do not solder in place until the cab isfully painted. Use the Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) to assistalignment.

Footplate SupportsRemove Footplate Supports (30-33) and Footplate SupportsTops (34-37) from the fret. Solder together the pairs. For thefront pair it is useful to file down the outside by 0.3 mm (thewidth of the brass sheet) so that the supporting plates for thecentre steps may be fitted between them and the valence.

Solder these under the foot plates to locate centrally on thetwo stubs of the foot plate.

Centre StepsNote

Alternative chequer steps are provided for the centre steps

48. Cab Arrangement 1 49. Cab Arrangement 2

51. Roof

50. Cab Arrangement 3

Foot Plate Support Top (30)

Foot Plate Support Bracket (34)

52. Foot Plate Support

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Page 30 Class 8C

Centre Plate Left Upper (91)

Centre Plate Left (90)

Centre Plate Lower Left (92)

Rear Step Plate Left (96)

Rear Steps Stabiliser (99)

Rear Step Left Lower (98)Rear Step Left Upper (97)

Remove Centre Step Plate Left (90), Centre Step Left Upper(91) and Centre Step Left Lower (92) from the fret. BendCentre Step Plate Left to shape as shown, there is a distinctkink a few inches below the valence to move the steps awayfrom the loading gauge but in reality the displacement is onlythe thickness of 0.6 mm.

Fold Centre Step Left Upper (91) to shape noting the the rearpart that attaches to the main plate folds downwards. Solderinto place.

Fold Centre Step Left Lower (92) into shape and solder intoplace.

This will now fit between the foot plate supports and thevalence - but it may be better to do this later.

Repeat for the centre steps on the right side.

These fit behind the valence but final fitting should be donelater since handling errors can easily bend these out of shape.

Rear StepsNote

Alternative chequer steps are provided for the rear steps

Remove Rear Step Plate Left (96), Rear Step Left Upper (97)and Rear Step Left Lower (98) from the fret. Bend Rear StepPlate Left (96) to shape as shown, there is a distinct kink a fewinches below the valence to move the steps away from theloading gauge, noting the displacement is only 0.6 mm.

Fold Rear Step Left Upper (97) into shape and solder intoplace.

Fold Rear Step Left Lower (98) into shape and solder intoplace.

Repeat for the rear steps on the right side.

Leave the Rear Steps Stabilisers (99,103) until final fitting ofthe steps to the body - just in case!

The steps will later fit behind the valence .

ValencesNote

If you have chosen to fit the buffer assemblies (front and rear)to the foot plate, now is the time to solder them in place.

Tabs from the splashers may interfere with fitting the valencesso ensure they are filed flat against the underside of the footplates.

Remove Valences Left & Right (18,19) from the fret and verycarefully file off any remaining tags. There is a reverse curve inthe valence under the place where the foot plate widens socurve the valences to suit then solder into place against thefoot plate support brackets (34-37) with the steps in positiontemporarily).

53. Centre Step

54. Rear Step 1

2 deg. kink

55. Rear Step 2

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Page 31 Class 8C

Use Valence Spacing Aids (132-135) to get the position as accurate as possible. Two of these are slightly longer and are used infront of the valence bend but not before the frame bend begins - i.e. over the cylinders.

You Are HereJust as a summary, the picture shows the parts made so far. Its time to start making this thing look like a steam engine.

The cab base should slide over the end of the chassis frames,ensuring that ALL of the slot in the cab base is taken up. Placethe cab body and foot plates on top of this so that the rear tabon the cab sides locates in the cab base as well as the handrails, it may be necessary to ease the front of the foot platesover the rivets in the frame.

When satisfied this is square solder up.

Place the cab cupboards and solder both to the cab floor andthe cab side. Very little solder is needed here, they should be asnug fit. The foot plate overlaps the rear buffer by about 0.5mm which is the depth of the rivets!

BoilerNote

The boiler will slide into the smoke box by about 5 mm.

Remove Boiler (1) from the fret and roll to shape with thelocating marks on the outside. The longitudinal ends shouldmeet exactly.

56. You are here 1

58. You are here 3

57. You are here 2

59. Smoke Box Frame

Smoke Box Frame (4)

8BA Nut to locksmoke box to

frame if needed

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Page 32 Class 8C

Remove Boiler Front (2) and Boiler Rear (3) from the fret andsolder into place. Check these are a good fit inside the boiler.After removing Fire Box Support Aid (139) from the front ofthe fire box check that it is a good fit. Make sure you arefinished with filing the Belpaire curve.

Fit Hand Rail Knobs (Qty 4 2 mm, two each side) once you aresatisfied with the fit. If you do it now you can solder frominside the boiler and get a better joint.

At the same time fit a 2 mm Hand Rail Knob either side of thefire box.

Smoke BoxRemove Smoke Box frame (4) from the fret and fold to shape.Remove Smoke Box (5) from the fret and roll to shapeensuring that it is a tight fit over the end of the boiler. There isan access hole at the bottom to allow an 8 BA bolt to bepassed through the chimney so that it screws into Smoke BoxBase (11). This an alternative way of fixing the body to thechassis.

There is a hole (used later for the snifter) on the Boiler (1) andSmoke Box (5) to help get the alignment correct. The main(visible) boiler should be 60 mm long with about 5 mm insidethe smoke box assembly.

The circular part of the Smoke Box Frame sits inside SmokeBox and there are two notches to assist in the location. Beforesoldering the Smoke Box (5) to the Smoke Box frame (4),ensure that the two sit parallel. If the boiler and/or the SmokeBox have not been rolled exactly circular then it may benecessary to file away the rear of the Smoke Box Frame untilthey do sit parallel. It is difficult, even with roller bars, toensure circularity where the boiler and Smoke Box joins aremade.

Smoke Box WrapperNote

There are two smoke box wrappers provided, the one withrivets is for the superheated version. Both are marked with‘front’ and ‘rear’ as an aid to fitting correctly.

Smoke Box Wrapper (7) is set back a little from the front edge,a very small curve should be made in the front of the mainsmoke box assembly.

Remove Smoke Box Wrapper (6) or Smoke Box Wrapper (7)from the fret and carefully file off the remains of the tags.Using the hole for the upper lamp bracket, the hole for theHand Rail Knobs and the hole for the chimney locate theSmoke Box Wrapper around the Smoke Box (5) and, ensuring itis a tight fit, beginning at the top, solder into place.

File the bottom part of the wrapper flat, this is slightlyoverlong by design, this will sit directly on the Smoke Box Base(11) which is part of the chassis.

File the front of the Smoke Box flat. Fit the Qty 2 1.6 mm HandRail Knobs, on either side of the smoke box.

Top Hand Rail Knob

Slots for Footplate Front (12)

Smoke Box (5)

60. Smoke Box

61. Smoke Box Wrapper

Smoke Box Wrapper (6)

Vacuum Pipe Location

Lamp Brackets 16-18)

Foot Plate Front (12 )

Hinges (14,15)

Handles

62. Footplate Front

Fixing Pins

Small curve

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Page 33 Class 8C

The ash ejectors were always fitted on the right hand side. If you have used fitting pins to locate the wrapper, when you removethe one from the snifter location, for the saturated locomotive this will need a dab of solder to fill it in.

Smoke Box StepDrill the hole in Smoke Box Step (8) and the hole in the front of the Smoke Box Frame (4) which is on the lower right side to 0.3mm. Remove Smoke Box Step (8) from the fret and use a short length of 0.3 mm brass wire to locate the step in position. Solderinto place and clean up.

Smoke Box Front Hand Rail KnobEnsure that the hand rail knob will fit into the hole at the top of the smoke box. Do not solder in place yet until the hand rail hasbeen fitted, it will be impossible to get a good fit on the hand rail unless this is left right until the end.

Front Foot PlateIn Footplate Front (12), drill three holes to 0.3 mm for the lamp brackets , drill one hole 0.8mm for the vacuum pipe and two to0.3 mm for the knobs on the curved part next to the smoke box. The original Alan Gibson used to prefer ‘staples’ for this, theywere always more robust.

Solder a couple of 12 BA nuts to the underside locating over the half etch circles.

Remove Footplate Front (12) from the fret. Bend the Foot Plate Front (12) to the correct curve so that the half etched lines willbe on the under side.

Insert the tabs on Front Foot Plate (12) into the two slots on the front of the smoke box.

Add Footplate Hinges (14,15) at the joint line and add a short piece of 0.3 mm brass wire to represent the hinge.

Insert a couple of short lengths of 0.3 mm wire near the top to represent the knobs used to open the ‘piano’.

Boiler and Smoke BoxEnsure that the rear end of the boiler is a good fit and the front end of the smoke box will sit between the frames.

Solder the boiler rear to the fire box keeping the two location marks aligned exactly. Once satisfied that it is never going to bemoved solder them firmly together from underneath.

Hand RailBend a length of 0.45 mm brass wire to suit the curve at the front of the smoke box, thread on the Hand Rail Knob for the smokebox and push the two ends through the hand rail knobs on the smoke box and boiler sides and into the holes just under the cabfront windows. Solder into place inside the cab then solder the hand rail on the front of the smoke box into place if needed, usea dab of glue in preference.

Lamp BracketsNote

The supplied brackets have an etched bend which is vulnerable to mishandling. An alternative is to use a short length of 1 mmwide brass and make a sharp fold in it. Staples have been recommended elsewhere as another customer choice.

Drill out the locating holes in Lamp Brackets (15-17). Remove Lamp Brackets (15-17) from the fret, bend to shape and fit to footplate using 0.33 mm brass wire to locate them.

Trim any excess wire and file down.

Vacuum PipeLocate the Markits Vacuum Pipe. Drill out the corresponding hole in the front foot plate and solder into place. Ensure it isvertical.

Hand Rails (Cab Side)Fit a short length of 0.45 mm brass wire into the two holes on the cab sides. This should be about 0.9 mm from the cab side.When the side brackets were fitted, the handrail moved forwards.

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Page 34 Class 8C

Foot Plate Grab HandlesIf the centre steps are fitted then there should be a grab handle on the footplate. Clear the holes in the foot plates between theleading and centre splashers to 0.45 mm and fit a short length of 0.45 mm brass wire setting it to 0.9 mm above the foot plate.

Reversing ArmNote

The reversing arm consists of several very fine pieces which are connected using 0.3 mm brass wire through holes in the etch.This should be fitted to the body just before the painting stage to ensure it is not damaged. There are two sets of parts on theetch just in case.

Drill out holes in Reversing Arm parts (69-74) then remove them from the fret, file off any tags and connect as shown in thediagram opposite.

The actuator arms slide behind the front splasher and in theory should connect to the mechanism on the chassis. This isimpractical for modellers so once the position is final it is probably easier to solder Reversing Arm Chassis End (63) to the rear ofthe front right splasher.

Top Lamp BracketNote

The original position for the top lamp bracket was on top of the smoke box. To suit LNER loading gauge restrictions this wasmoved variously to the hand rail by the smoke box door or the front of the smoke box door itself.

Lamp Bracket Top (118) should provide these later options, otherwise use the standard spares from Lamp Bracket Footplate (15-17).

63. Reversing Arm Assembly

Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73,74)

Reversing Arm Cab Arm (71)

Reversing Arm Chassis End (70)

Reversing Arm Rear Actuator (72)

Reversing Arm Cab End (69)

Scrap 2 mm x 2 mm x 2 mm drill 0.45 mm

Fit to reversing axle

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Page 35 Class 8C

Foot Plate ConnectionFoot Plate Connection (124) is supposed to represent the chequered plate which stops the engine crew falling down the gapbetween the locomotive and tender. As such, it should be fixed to one or the other and free to lift about a hinge, which may befitted either to the tender or the locomotive footplate..

The tradition way for modellers to fit this is to attach a couple of small hooks to Foot Plate Connection (124) and a couple ofloops to either the tender or locomotive according to preference.

Fitting Furniture for the BodyNote

For preference solid brass or white metal parts should be araldited in place. If you solder up a brass dome and get it slightlywrong a very large amount of heat will be required to adjust it!

Chimney and Dome - araldite in place. Drwg. 251 Chimney Original and Drwg. 254 Dome Original or Drwg. 252 ChimneyFlowerpot or Drwg. 253, Chimney Pseudo-GCR, Drwg. 251 Dome Original or Drwg. 254 Dome Flattened or Drwg. 255 DomeAngular.

Footplate Side Covers Drwg. 203- araldite the moulded side covers Drwg. Xxx in place. The front should fit at or slight to therear of the fold in the frame. Ensure that they do not overlap the edge of the footplates or it will be difficult to separate theframe and body over the rivets of the frame.

Safety Valves - araldite in place Ramsbottom 4-column safety valve supplied or a pair of Ross Pops which were sometimes fittedbefore superheating during the 1920s.

Whistle - solder in place on roof or after the grouping to the front of the cab - note that some very early locomotives had a pairof whistles which were used for signalling.

Back Head Drwg.201 - fit inside cab - preferably before soldering roof in place so that it can be painted. Add Cab Handles (85-88)and Regulator Lever (121-123) . Note that the back head is not heat resistant.

Sand Box Fillers Drwg. 206 - ream out locating holes (one on each side of smoke box ) and fit from the top, solder in place. Makesure that they do not interfere with the fitting of the frames.

Oil Boxes Covers Drwg. 205- ream out 3 locating holes on each side by the smoke box to suit parts provided fit from underneathso that the flange is a snug fit against the underside of the foot plate. One side of the flange should be filed off or it may impingeon the chassis sandbox thus preventing a proper fit (in my test case it bent the footplate!). Add Oil Filler Caps (38-43) to the topwith the hinge (flat) to the front of the locomotive if these are required (hardly noticeable).

Smoke Box Door Drwg. 258 - Remove Smoke Box Door hinge (125) from the fret - solder one hinge to door side and use theextension as a support for the hinge mechanism consisting of some very short lengths of 0.8 mm tube and 0.45 brass wire - itseasier than it sounds and looks far more accurate than a cast part.

The smoke box door is pre-drilled 1 mm for the Markits door handle.

Smoke Box Door Handle - use the supplied Markits version, then fit the smoke box door to the front of the smoke box usingaraldite.

Snifter Drwg. 228 - for superheated locomotives fit just behind the chimney.

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Page 36 Class 8C

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Page 38 Class 8C

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