RISING STARSFEBRUARY 2013

EATING AMERICANA: SHANE CONFECTIONERY ’S WHIRLY BERLEY BAR P.20

WHOOPS, I COOKED IT PERFECTLY: THE TALE OF FORGOTTEN CABBAGE P.20

PULLING TRADITIONAL MACCHERONI ALLA MUGNAIA INTO THE PRESENT P.40

SCHEUREBE DOES DOUBLE DUTY in MIDDLE EASTERN PAIRING P.64

SWEETNESS FOLLOWS: THE CONTRARIAN CASE FOR SIMPLE SYRUPS P.60

THE MAGAZINE FOR CULINARY INSIDERS rSTARCHEFS.COM | $4.00

Craig Hopson recommends Wonjo Korean Restaurant23 West 32nd Street New York, NY 10001(212) 695-5815

Dominique Ansel recommends Pylos128 East 7th Street #A New York, NY 10009(212) 473-0220

Sam Mason recommends Peasant194 Elizabeth StreetNew York, NY 10012(212) 965-9511

Daniel Holzman recommends Tomoe Sushi172 Thompson Street New York, NY 10012(212) 777-9346

Mario Batali recommends Peking Duck House28 Mott StreetNew York, NY 10013(212) 227-1810

Seamus Mullen recommends Bacaro136 Division StreetNew York, NY 10002(212) 941-5060

Andy Ricker recommends Rai Rai Ken218 East 10th Street New York, NY 10003(212) 477-7030

Missy Robbins recommends Wogies39 Greenwich AvenueNew York, NY 10014(212) 229-2171

Eat likE a chEf in your own city or whErEvEr you travEl with our two appsrecommended dishes, photo galleries, interviews, and chef bios, chef picks city Guide is more than just a dining guide; it’s a complete foodie handbook. Want to know where Chef Daniel Boulud goes for his BBQ fix? The best fish tacos in Los Angeles? Michael Voltaggio knows just the spot. We have them all in chef picks: off the Beaten path. you’ll never need to dine blind again.

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www.steelite.comtoll free: 800 367 3493 email: usa@steelite.com

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Winner of the 2012 Starchefs.com International Chefs Congress Tabletop Innovator Award

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Nicholas Elmi’s culinary career started on a Thursday. That was his day of the week to feed his five siblings and hard-working parents. The weekly chore became a paying gig in high school, when Elmi slung pizzas and pasta at Joseph’s Trattoria in his native Bradford, Massachusetts. And it turned into a career when he opted out of an accounting and economics program to earn a degree from the Culinary Institute of America.

After graduating in 2001, Elmi moved to Philadelphia to work under one the city’s most iconic chefs, George Perrier, at Brasserie Perrier. Elmi then left Philly to immerse himself in the New York City fine-dining scene with a stage at Daniel and posts at Lutece, Union Pacific with Chef Rocco DiSpirito, and Oceana with Rising Star Chef Chris Lee. Elmi eventually found his way back to his mentor Perrier with an executive sous chef position at Mia in Atlantic City and eventually the executive chef role at Le Bec-Fin.

Before he took over the kitchen at Le Bec-Fin, Elmi moved to Paris to stage at Guy Savoy, a formative experience that changed his view of ingredients, purveyors, and creative process in the kitchen. He brought his renewed passion to Perrier’s flagship until the restaurant changed hands in 2012. Now chef of Rittenhouse Tavern, Elmi’s first solo restaurant is an elegant reflection of his French training and an inspiring taste of his culinary vision—ignited years ago in his parents’ kitchen.

Favorite tool: My petty knife. I use it for everything from butchering to fine knife work. Tool do you wish you had: Rotary evaporator Favorite cookbook: Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras Favorite dish you’ve ever made: Chilled Poached Squid, Horseradish, Buddha’s Hand, Celery, and Sea Urchin Where do you most want to go for culinary travel? Back to France—dream weekend would be l’Astrance then travel south to Michel Bras. Favorite charity: March of Dimes

CHEF

NICHOLAS ELMIRittenhouse Tavern

@NICHOLASELMI

FAST FACTS

PHIL ADELPHIA 2013 | 4

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Yun Fuentes’s first industry job—as a Hamburglar costume-clad McDonald’s birthday attendant—wasn’t exactly glamorous. And though his second saw him arm deep in suds as a dishwasher, it got him into the kitchen, where he proved himself an able cook. Moving from the dish basin to the stove, Fuentes realized just how much he had to learn. And that initial spark of curiosity fueled his ascent in the industry.

In the 1990s, Fuentes worked the restaurant circuit in his native Old San Juan. He cooked under Roberto Treviño at The Parrot Club and served as the first chef de cuisine at Blue Agave Bar & Grill, where he worked with Richard Sandoval. To push his knowledge and comfort zone, Fuentes left Puerto Rico for New York City, where he landed at Patria, followed by stints at El Zocalo, and Pipa and Lucy Latin Kitchen in the ABC Building. Eventually, Fuentes found his way to Jean-Georges Vongerichten kitchens—all the while continuing to stage.

Fuentes finally found a culinary home in Philadelphia, working on the Amada salad station for Rising Star Chef Jose Garces. Fuentes impressed his new mentor Garces and soon had the chance to take on more responsibility and the role of chef de cuisine. Moving within the Garces Group, Fuentes worked at Tinto and Village Whiskey before taking over as chef de cuisine at JG Domestic, where his passion and hunger to learn continue to drive him today.

Favorite tool: Spoon Tool do you wish you had: More spoons Most important kitchen rule: It can be better. Favorite dish you’ve ever made: Lechon AsadoWhere you most want to go for culinary travel: My grandma’s house Favorite charity: Garces Family Foundation

CHEF

YUN FUENTES JG Domestic

@JGDOMESTICPHL

FAST FACTS

PHIL ADELPHIA 2013 | 6

With a grandfather who worked as a butcher and a quarter-acre farm in his backyard, Pennsylvania native Josh Lawler’s connection to land and food have always been personal. That connection drew him to the kitchen early. He started cooking at 14, and seven years later, he graduated from Drexel University with a degree in hotel and restaurant management.

After working at Philadelphia restaurants, including The Fountain, Buddakan, and Striped Bass, Lawler moved to New York City to work under Laurent Tourondel at BLT Steak and under Bill Telepan as chef de cuisine at Telepan.

Lawler’s next step didn’t take him too far from New York City—just 20 miles north of Manhattan—but it brought him back to the roots of his childhood food experiences and, arguably, American cuisine. As chef de cuisine of Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Lawler played an instrumental role in the restaurant’s success and in defining the modern farm-to-table movement.

In spring 2011, Lawler took his experience and passion for all thing local back to his home state, opening Farm and Fishermen with his wife (and sous chef) Colleen, whom he met at Drexel. At Farm and Fisherman, Lawler continues to deepen his relationship with the land and his purveyors—and now his diners—serving as a steward for the future of honest and inspiring local cooking.

Favorite tool: Cleaver Tool do you wish you had: Walk-in Favorite cookbook: Cooking with the Seasons by Jean-Louis PalladinMost important kitchen rule: Do your job. Favorite dish you’ve ever made: The Boody Beet Steak Favorite charity: The Food Trust

CHEF

JOSH LAWLERFarm and Fisherman

@FARMFISHERMAN

FAST FACTS

For the Bloody Beet Steak:Preheat oven to 375°F. In a bowl, toss the beets with 2 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the beets on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Roast beets until tender, about 2 hours. Remove from oven and cool slightly. Peel beets and slice in half lengthwise.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in large, cast-iron skillet; place beets cut side down in the pan. Using small pan, crush beets until they are about 1-inch thick. Cook until browned, flip, and brown the other side. Add butter, thyme, and shallots to the pan; cook, basting the beets with butter, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove beets from pan and deglaze with stock, vinegar, and honey. Cook until reduced to a glaze. Reserve warm.

To Assemble and Serve:Smear some yogurt down the center of a plate and top with a Bloody Beet Steak, cut side up. Spoon pan sauce over each beet and drizzle with balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with micro amaranth and salt.

BLOODY BEET STEAK, BEET PAN JUS, YOGURT, AMARANTH, AND AGED BALSAMIC Chef Josh Lawler of The Farm and Fisherman – Philadelphia, PAadapTed by sTarCheFs.Com

Yield: 4 servings

Bloody Beet Steak:2 large red beets, tops removed¼ cup olive oilSaltBlack pepper2 tablespoons unsalted butter3 sprigs thyme, chopped2 tablespoons minced shallots½ cup veal stock1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar1 tablespoon honey

To Assemble and Serve:1 cup Greek yogurtAged balsamic vinegarMicro red amaranthMaldon sea salt

INGREDIENTS METHOD

Micro red amaranth provided by

30-year aged balsamic vinegar provided by Julius Silvert

The Bard Scotch Ale, Forest and Main Brewing Company, USA

PHIL ADELPHIA 2013 | 87 | STARCHEFS.COM RISING STARS

Born in Trinidad and raised in Philadelphia, Davina Soondrum is proof that childhood dreams can come true. As a toddler, Soondrum’s mom let her watch “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory” nearly every day, and at the tender age of 4, she told her parents she wanted to be a candy maker. Though her dream hibernated for more than a decade, Soondrum found herself drawn back to sweets after high school.

Transforming her growing interest into a career, Soondrum attended the Art Institute of Philadelphia, where she was mentored by Chef Patrick Coue and graduated with honors in 2006. In school, Soondrum worked the counter at Godiva, but degree in hand, she hit the pastry kitchen in earnest with roles at The Restaurant School (where she worked with another mentor, Randall Hoppmann), Daniel Stern’s Rae; Marcie Turney’s retail shop, Grocery; and Friday, Saturday, Sunday in Rittenhouse Square.

Soondrum was soon tapped to run the pastry program at Ryan and Eric Berley’s turn-of-the-century soda shop and ice cream parlor, Franklin Fountain. And as the brothers prepared to re-open Shane Confectionery next door, Soondrum was a natural choice to lead their candy making debut. Starting with 100-year-old recipes scratched onto envelopes, Soondrum began to master and re-imagine Shane’s offerings. She and her team make crave-worth chocolate bars, dip buttercreams by hand, and craft toy glass candies in antique iron molds. Made with the fervor and process of a scientist and the wild imagination of a child, Soondrum’s confections are the sweet outcome of a professional dream realized.

Favorite tool: Pure imagination—without it, I could not function. Tool you wish you had: Fool-proof mercury thermometer Most important kitchen rule: Don’t take things too personally. We’re always learning; mistakes just open other doors for future success. Favorite interview question: What do you have in your fridge right now? Favorite charity: Philabundance

ARTISAN

DAVINA SOONDRUMFranklin Fountain

FAST FACTS

@FRANKLINFTN

WHIRLY BERLEY BARPastry Chef Davina Soondrum of shane ConFeCTionery – Philadelphia, PAadapTed by sTarCheFs.Com

Yield: 75 bite-sized bars

Soft Chocolate Torrone:½ ounce dried egg whites19 ounces sugar2 ounces fresh egg whites7 ounces corn syrup5 ounces water10 ounces honey3 ounces chocolate liqueur3 ounces bittersweet chocolate chunks1 ounce cocoa butter

Salted Chocolate Caramel:2½ cups granulated sugar1¾ cups corn syrup¾ cups water¾ pound butter, cubed1¼ cups heavy cream½ pound dark chocolate chunksCoarse sea saltCocoa nibs

To Assemble and Serve: Tempered dark chocolate Cocoa nibs

INGREDIENTS

Wilbur Bronze Medal dark chocolate provided by

Insana Stout, Prism Brewing Company, USA

PHIL ADELPHIA 2013 | 109 | STARCHEFS.COM RISING STARS

If you’ve boiled a box of De Cecco, you’ve eaten the fruits of Abruzzo’s pasta making tradition—at least in its most commercial form. Due east of Rome, Abruzzo begins in the heart of Apennines mountain range and extends to the Adriatic Sea, and a combination of mountain-filtered water and close proximity to grain-producing regions makes it the ideal home for pasta making. “Most Italian chefs agree that the best pasta makers come from Abruzzo,” says 2013 Rising Star Artisan Joe Cicala, who runs the kitchen at Philadelphia’s Abruzzese restaurant, Le Virtù—though he admits chefs in Emilia-Romagna may beg to differ.

Dried pasta factories, including De Cecco, Guiseppe Cocco (Cicala’s favorite), and Del Verde, dot the region’s Del Verde River. And fresh pastas like maccheroni alla chitarra were invented there. But when Le Virtù owner, Francis Cratil-Cretarola, first experienced Maccheroni alla Mugnaia, he knew he found something special.

ON THE PASTA HUNTAfter eating the pasta on one of his annual food pilgrimages to Abruzzo, Cratil-Cretarola sent Cicala on a mission to find a restaurant that served it. Maccheroni alla Mugnaia is a single loop of hand-pulled pasta, stretched from a disc into loops 10-feet to hundreds of feet long. Because the pasta is typically served in homes and at festivals, Cicala’s search lasted over two weeks. “He sent me on a wild goose chase to find this damn pasta,” says Cicala. “I interviewed every chef I knew, who would then send me in a new direction.”

His search ended at Il Ristorante Hotel La Bilancia in the town of Loreto Aprutino. After finishing a bowl in the dining room, Cicala talked to the maître d’, who brought in the owner. Before long, Cicala found himself in the kitchen, stretching pasta with two grandmas, who had cooked at the restaurant for 60 years.

HONING TECHNIQUEBack home, Cicala worked for two weeks to master the dough, which has to be hand-kneaded for an hour. “You have to discipline yourself to let the dough rest, so it will loosen up. Otherwise, it will snap,” he says. In Abruzzo, pasta is an invention of necessity, a combination of inexpensive ingredients—just flour, water, and a hit of olive oil—to sustain a day of labor. “It’s pasta that comes from extreme poverty,” says Cicala. But without the egg and semolina used in other parts of Italy, it’s a different beast to handle.

Now one of Cicala’s signature dishes, the chef pulls 10-foot loops for everyday dining, but has pulled 40-foot loops for special occasions. In Abruzzo, Maccheroni alla Mugnaia is traditionally served on the same table the pasta is rolled on. The cook simply cleans the table, boils the pasta, and dresses the single noodle with sauce on the tabletop. Crowds gather round and dig in. With advance notice, Cicala serves Maccheroni alla Mugnaia on giant wooden boards for Le Virtù guests to share.

As far as Cicala knows, he’s only seen the pasta referenced in one cookbook, Domenica Marchetti’s The Glorious Pasta of Italy, and he’s the only chef in America serving the dish. It’s even a dying art in Abruzzo, where “the kids don’t have an interest in learning,” he says. So taking up the mantle of grandma and artisan, Cicala keeps alive the tradition of Maccheroni alla Mugnaia at Le Virtù. Join him with this technique.

PULLING TRADITIONAL MACCHERONI ALLA MUGNAIA INTO THE PRESENTBY Caroline Hatchett

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For the Maccheroni alla Mugnaia:On a large surface, make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the water, salt, and oil. With a fork, slowly incorporate the flour from the outside. Once the dough starts to come together, knead for 1 hour, until the dough picks up all the flour and becomes relatively firm. Form the dough into a disc, cover, and rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Remove from refrigerator and poke a hole in the center of the disc making a doughnut shape. Slowly start stretching the dough from the inside out, making a continuous loop. When the dough loop grows to large to handle, lay the dough flat on a wooden table and start rolling it out with your hands, continuing to stretch the dough until you get a very thick, rough spaghetti-like shape.

For the Sauce:In a cold, large pot, add the oil, garlic, peppers, and red pepper flakes and bring up slowly to a light fry. When the garlic toasts, or turns light brown around the edges, remove from heat and add pasta water to stop the cooking. Set aside.

To Assemble and Serve:Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the Maccheroni alla Mugnaia and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until just under al dente. Gently warm the Sauce in the pot. Drain the pasta and add to the pot with the Sauce. Cook for 2 minutes, adding pasta water as needed to keep the emulsification. If the pasta starts to sizzle add water. Stir constantly to release the starch and thicken the sauce. Add the pecorino and parsley and toss lightly to mix.

MACCHERONI ALLA MUGNAIA: HAND-PULLED SINGLE STRAND PASTA, GARLIC, EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, HOT PEPPER, AND PECORINOChef Joe Cicala of Le VirTù – Philadelphia, PAadapTed by sTarCheFs.Com

Maccheroni alla Mugnaia:(Yield: 4 to 6 servings)1 kilogram 00 flour500 grams waterPinch salt1 tablespoon olive oil

Sauce:(Yield: 1 serving)3 ounces extra virgin olive oil2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced½ long hot pepper, thinly sliced½ Fresno chili, thinly slicedPinch red pepper flakes2 ounces pasta water

To Assemble and Serve:(Yield: 1 serving)10 flat leaf parsley leaves, minced3 tablespoons shaved pecorino

Canestrato Abruzze

INGREDIENTS METHOD

PHIL ADELPHIA 2013 | 1211 | STARCHEFS.COM RISING STARS