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G R E Y D A Y S

S O U T H W A L E S

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Fisherman on Barry island

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Blaenavon

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As the wind blows and the sun shines we travel over the

Severn bridge towards our destination, south Wales. It

has only been a week or so since the decision to head into

the ‘unknown’, for us anyway. What will this week long

trip bring us? We know for sure a lot of rain and wind

and some very cold nights. However, the thought of who

and what we will meet along our way fill’s us with high

spirit and an urge to press on.

First stop, Caldicot, and the gods are on our side. The

sun is in the sky and it is dry under foot. Caldicot has

long been the first stop for people venturing into south

Wales for hundreds of years, until recently this meant

navigating the treacherous waters of the river Severn.

However today, thankfully for us we can safely drive over

the bridge and keep our feet dry.

As we went over the bridge a tall tower jutted up from

what looked like an old industrial area and so we decided

to park the car and investigate on foot. We came to learn

that this was once in-fact one of the biggest paper mills

in business within south Wales. Employing a lot of the

local community but sadly had closed a decade before

as the production of paper had been out sourced to the

far east. Over the years this once bustling business had

become dormant within its surroundings and the local

people had to find employment else where.

We took a walk for a couple hours around the local area and

it was clear to see the impact of such businesses coming to

cease within the local community and surrounding area.

However aside all this the bridge that now connects

Wales to England has brought some benefits. It creates

this connection, and with the connection comes industry

and commerce. This is vital to Wales economy and the

local businesses which rely on this link. Goods can now

come and go with ease allowing for a much more fluid

connection to be established.

The landscape is crisscrossed with power lines, spanning

hundred of miles. Nearly everywhere you look this is

visible as if it is a blanket covering the land below. It

becomes immediately prevalent that fuel and energy is

an important dictating factor within the welsh landscape.

We travelled to Barry Island once a famous tourist holiday

hotspot now a run down theme park and a small sandy

beach full of dog walkers and fisherman. It is here that

we spotted a fisherman camped out on the rocky shore

line. As we approached he was reluctant to speak however

gave us the name John Davies, pretty unbeleivable but

otherwise broke the stale air between us and him. The

rides at Barry Island are closed down for the winter,

covered and waiting the long winter to be opened for

next years occasional tourist. Will Wales see an increase

in productivity soon? As we left we asked John if he’d had

a fruitful days fishing, he replied ‘‘not at thing’’.

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Derelict paper mill, Sudbrook

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Steel mill

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Windfarm, Seven Sisters

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Aberthaw cement works

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It becomes clear as we carry on with our journey through

the south of Wales that the landscape that is before us is

not as it seems. The scars of many years of mining, open

cast and underground, has taken its toll, and the lay of

the land tells many stories. The remaining piles of dirt

and stone dug out from deep inside of the hill sides, line

many of the horizons and the absence of foliage is noted.

The essence of a landscape, which was once pristine and

held acres and acres of forest can been seen, however it

is broken like a puzzle by the man made veins scouring

the land.

This change in the landscape falls innocent as the culprit

turns up, the natural abundance of minerals and resourc-

es needed by humans to engineer the rise in economic

power. Wales, and its inhabitants, lay near the ever more

power hungry English. They and their lands fell like a

pawn in chess, to allow the forward momentum of the

British economy to grow. This need of the English for the

resources the Welsh possessed brought with it a boom

in industry. Mining for coal and other minerals flour-

ished and created money for Wales through exporting it

to England. The large crops of trees which lay at the top

of the valleys, again another exportable commodity and

this is why today the land is so scared.

“Being but men, we walked into the trees Afraid, letting our

syllables be soft

For fear of waking the rooks,

For fear of coming

Noiselessly into a world of wings and cries.

If we were children we might climb,

Catch the rooks sleeping, and break no twig,

And, after the soft ascent,

Thrust out our heads above the branches

To wonder at the unfailing stars.

Out of confusion, as the way is,

And the wonder, that man knows,

Out of the chaos would come bliss.

That, then, is loveliness, we said,

Children in wonder watching the stars,

Is the aim and the end.

Being but men, we walked into the trees.” - Being but men

Dylan Thomas

1914-1953

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Brecon Beacons

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Coal mine, Merthyr Tydfil

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Brecon Beacons

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Sgt Kieren Haywaood if the 1st Fusiliers, and Sgt Chris Brownie of the 4th Rifles, Brecon Beacons

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Tree farm, Brecon Beacons

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Beyond the mouths of the valleys concrete urban

jungles become far and few between and the drawn out

countryside villages become prominent features. These

small communities lay isolated with unknown faces

rarely seen. It was here that me noticed the strength in

the community and how this plays a vital role in helping

out each other when in need. Everyone knows each other

even in the larger towns and each person seems to play

a key role in the local societies. This is very different

from where we’re from. Where we are from isn’t like this,

only the very small towns seem to have this connection

between their inhabitants and if your from a larger town

or city then there is no hope in hell of remembering the

next person from the next you meet in the local pub.

To us this was interesting as it brings the whole area

closer together which in turn helps with the local spirit

of things. Everyone seemed to go out of their way for

us when we stopped to ask questions on the area and

each person gave us numerous names within the local

community that could help with this ever unravelling

story of south Wales. It was clear to see that in these

smaller towns in the valleys the recession hadn’t hit as

hard as it had back home. After asking the locals why this

was it became clear that they were adamant that by living

towards the lower income line this made the community

stronger. Everyone got their produce locally not normally

from big chain supermarkets keeping the money where

it was most needed. In turn the local shops kept above

board and saw out the worst of the recession.

Passing through Merthyr Tydfil we pulled in to get some

food. We stumbled across a fish and chip shop and the

women who owned it got talking with us. Her name

was Donna and she stood with a quite presence, which

contrasted her warming personality, she explained how

the chip shop had stood in the community for over 50

years. She serves many customers travelling through

however remembers all the locals by name and face. We

ate our chips and curry while studying the mural on

the back wall which held old school photographs from

decades passed. Donna spoke of these images saying how

it showed how things were and how things have changed.

One of the first people we met in Wales was at the Severn

bridge. Pete was a businessman from the Midlands, he

was sat admiring the view over the Severn on his first

trip to Wales. He was looking for business oppertunities

to construct schools. This could be a sign of further

investment and helping to build a stronger infrastructure

within Wales.

15 years ago the community was hit hard by the closure of

the local mine. However it was not all lost as a new quarry

opened near by. Many communities are built around the

former mining industries. Ray, and old Englishman, lives

upon a road which has been there since the Roman times.

The row of houses he lives in have been there since the

turn of the 20th century, making them some of the oldest

miners houses in the area. Most the people who live

there today are either descendants or relatives of mining

families. Ray originally lived in London, looking after his

mother until her death. He was a roadie, and travelled

with Genesis, Status Quo, Eric Clapton, Beach Boys and

Titanic. He move to this part of Wales after travelling

around for 9 months and has lived here for 27 years

originally buying his house for a mere £10,000. When

asked why he decided to live here he said -

“The people, the people are really nice...

....until you cross them.”

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On route to Severn Sisters

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Bridgend

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Donna, Sammy’s fish bar, Merthyr Tydfil

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Trinity Presbyterian church. In loving memory of Muriel Hillier

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Restaurant

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Banwen

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Ray, Banwen

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The old country of my fathers is dear unto me, Country of

poets and singers, celebrities indeed,: Its warring defenders,

so gallant and brave,

For freedom their life’s blood they gave.

County!, Country!, Pledge-full I am to my country! While

seas secure,

this land so pure,

o may our old language endure.

O land of the mountains, the bard’s paradise, Whose preci-

pice, valleys lone as the skies, Green murmuring forest, far

echoing flood Fire the fancy and quicken the blood.

For tho’ the fierce foeman has ravaged your realm, The old

speech of Wales he cannot o’erwhelm, Our passionate poets to

silence command

Or banish the harp from your strand.

Welsh National Anthem

By Evan James, and son, James James.

1856

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Banwen

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River Ogmore

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Pete, Sudbrook

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Photographs, text and layout © Oliver Tooke and Thomas King Retina Photos 2014.

Grey Days Volume 1

All images taken in Wales between October 2013 and February 2014.

Printed in the UK.

Edition of 500.

Pontsticill resevoir

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Merthyr Tydfil

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W W W. R E T I N A P H O T O S . C O . U K