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Handout GH12.1.1Requirements for client preparation prior to cutting hair

It is important to ensure that the client and their clothing are well protected before cutting hair. As a minimum it is recommended that the routine below is followed:

Work station• Chair to be clean and dry, worktop to be

clean and tidy and free from hairs• Products and equipment on display to be

clean and free from dust and debris• Tools to be cleaned and sterilised before

use• Electrical equipment to be visually

checked for safety before use • All tools and equipment to be positioned

for ease of use

Client (suggested protection procedure for cutting hair using basic techniques)

• Cleantoweltobeplacedaroundtheclient’s shoulders and secured to prevent it from falling off

• Cleangowntobeplacedontheclientand properly secured to protect client’s clothing from cut hairs

• Cuttingcollartobeplacedaroundtheclient’s shoulders

State your salon’s procedure for preparing clients for cutting hair

Suggest ways of improving these procedures.

Notes.


Handout

Expected service times for the hair cuts in the range

The NVQ/SVQ standards have a pre-set service time of 45 minutes for cutting hair. This time does not include consultation, shampooing or drying and finishing the hair. The time allocation for cutting hair will vary between salons, use the space below to record how much time is allowed in your own salon to achieve each of the haircuts specified in the range.

Range Time allocated in my salon

One length

Uniform layer

Short graduation

Long graduation

Notes

GH12.1.2


Activity

Look closely at the first three pictures

What is wrong with the stylist's posture and what problems could this lead to?

Now look closely at this picture

How will the positions of the client and hairdresser contribute to the accuracy of the haircut?

PostureGH12.1.4


Session 1 GH12Cut hair using basic techniquesLearner Check

Session 1

1. State the gowning requirements for cutting hair.

2. State the service time to complete a haircut for the NVQ/SVQ.

3. Describe how to dispose of hair cuttings.

4. Describe the effect of poor posture when cutting hair.

5. Describe the effect of a client who does not sit correctly in a chair when having their hair cut.

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Activity

Unhygienic haircutting practices

Look closely at the picture and identify the unsafe and unhygienic haircutting practices shown.

Discuss the results with your trainer and members of your group.

Notes.

GH12.2.2


Handout

Methods of working safely and hygienically when cutting hairIt is very important to work safely and hygienically when cutting hair in order to protect the safety and well being of both yourself and your clients.

The use of safe and hygienic working methods will reduce risks of:

• cross infection and infestation• injury to the client • injury to the stylist • promote a professional and efficient

working environment.

Methods of working safely and hygienically:

• Check the client's hair and scalp for any signs of infection or infestation during the consultation

• Gown and protect the client using clean protective clothing

• Ensure that the hair and scalp are thoroughly cleansed/shampooed

• Ensure that all tools and equipment are cleaned, disinfected or sterilised prior to use.

Can you think of any more?

•••••••••••

Notes.

GH12.2.3


Handout GH12.2.5Methods of sterilisation

Cleaning Tools must be thoroughly cleaned prior to disinfecting or sterilising by removing any loose hair and washing the tools in warm soapy water to remove any styling products, dirt and grease and chemicals such as colour or perm lotion.

There are three ways of disinfecting andsterilising tools and equipment in a hairdressing salon:

• heat, either moist or dry• chemicals - disinfectant• UV light rays

Moist heat: This is a very effective method of sterilising tools, even cutting tools. It is created by the use of an autoclave. This is a piece of equipment that heats water to a very high temperature – higher than boiling. It creates what is known as super-heated steam and this is hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in salons. Autoclaves are used by doctors, dentists, chiropodists, etc... Small, hand held, tools are put into the autoclave, it is sealed and the water inside is brought to the required temperature. The temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed.

You must ensure that you have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use. This is the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation.

If you use this type of sterilisation methods then you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they

are to go into the autoclave. People sometimes ask if the steam will cause their cutting tools to rust – this does not happen. The steam evaporates quickly, leaving the tools dry, the same way that dishwashers leave cutlery dry.

Dry heat: This method of sterilisation is rarely used in salons. It is a method that uses an oven to create high temperatures. Although bacteria are effectively killed by this method, tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time.

Chemicals - disinfectant: This method is often used in salons and is effective if used correctly. Tools must be washed before placing into the disinfectant solution otherwise the dirt on them will contaminate the solution. The disinfectant must fully cover the item – many stylists place their combs into a disinfectant jar that is only half full. The tools must be left in the disinfectant long enough for it to do its job. This time varies, depending on the cleanliness of the item and the strength of the disinfectant solution, but it can be as long as an hour. As with using an autoclave, this means that stylists must have enough tools to allow for the time to disinfect.

UV light rays: This method of sterilisation uses Ultra Violet (UV) light rays to kill bacteria. Tools are cleaned then placed into a UV cabinet and the light sterilises those areas that it reaches. This means that you must turn the item so that all surfaces are treated.

This method is not recommended. UV cabinets are suitable for storing tools that have been disinfected or sterilised.


Handout

The importance of keeping your work area clean and tidy

As a professional hairdresser it benefits you and your salon if you keep up a good appearance.

This applies to your work area as well as to your own appearance. If your work area is untidy and dirty the client is likely to think that he is not going to get a good service. If it is always clean and tidy it will create a professional image of the salon and of yourself.

A dirty work area allows bacteria to multiply and infections are likely to be spread from one client to another or between client and hairdresser.

You have a duty to provide a hygienic environment for clients and by so doing you will minimise the risk of spreading infection.

An untidy work area often contains hazards – loose, trailing wires, sharp cutting tools within easy reach, towels and gowns draping over chairs, etc…

By keeping work areas tidy the hazards are reduced.

Summary: The reasons why work areas should be left clean and tidy are:

• to keep up a professional image of yourself and the salon

• to minimise the risk of passing infection from person to person

• to reduce hazards

Whose responsibility is it to ensure that the work area is left clean and tidy?

GH12.2.6


Handout

The importance of positioning your cutting tools for ease of use

There are two main reasons for positioning your cutting tools for ease of use:

• to ensure that you work efficiently throughout the service

• to make sure that your tools are to hand when you need them

If you fail to gather together all the tools that you will need then it is likely that you will waste time in looking for something partway through the service. This means that the client will have to wait while you find the tools and this may make them feel irritated. The result may be that you will lose a client.

If you are disorganised enough to fail to properly prepare for the job then the client may feel that you may take the same approach to their haircut – this, too, can lose clients for the salon.

Notes.

GH12.2.7


Handout Use and maintenance of cutting tools

All professional hairdressers must ensure that they:

• clean,disinfect or sterilise tools• use tools with care

Your hairdressing scissors are probably the most expensive piece of personal equipment you will ever buy. Therefore, you must ensure that you only use them for their intended purpose.

To lengthen the life or your scissors, they must be kept in good condition – you must ensure you clean them after each use and, when necessary, oil any moving parts (the pivot of the scissors). Surplus oil should be removed before the tools are used to prevent it getting on the client’s hair.

Remember: You must use cutting tools only for cutting hair – not for any other purpose - if you are to keep them in good condition.

One of the worst things you can cut with your hairdressing scissors is paper - this will blunt the blades very quickly.

Tools required to apply basic cutting techniques:

• Scissors• Cutting comb• Sectioning clips.

What other types of cutting tools do you see being used in your salon?

Holding and using scissors

Your trainer will demonstrate how to hold and use your hairdressing scissors.

It may feel strange at first, but the more you practice, the easier it will become.

How must you clean your cutting tools?

Adjusting your scissors

Your trainer will demonstrate how scissors should be adjusted.

GH12.2.8


Slide

Scissor and hair shaper holding positions.GH12.2.8


Handout

The importance of personal hygiene

The most important thing a client wants when s/he comes to a salon is good hairdressing. If the stylist provides a good service to a high standard then the client is likely to return.

However, if the stylist does not ensure that their personal hygiene is of the same high standard as their hairdressing the client may not come back. Body odour (BO) can be the result of insufficient cleanliness.

Human skin contains sweat glands that secrete waste in the form of sweat. Bacteria need warm, moist conditions to be able to multiply. There are lots of harmless bacteria in the sweaty, warm folds of the body – the groin, under the breasts and in the armpits. When bacteria die they decompose, they decay, and this is what causes odour.

If a person washes thoroughly at least every 24 hours it is unlikely that they will have BO, unless they do not also change their clothing. All clothing that comes into contact with the skin, especially the type that is in contact with the armpits and groin, must be changed once a day. The clothing absorbs sweat and if this is not washed or dry cleaned out of the fabric it will smell.

Some people try to cover the smell of unwashed skin or clothing by using deodorants. It is not possible to do this – the odour is still noticeable to others although the person themselves may not be aware of it. Antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to be used on clean skin and should never be applied to unwashed skin.

Oral hygiene must be kept up by frequently brushing your teeth and visiting the dentist regularly to ensure that you have no decaying teeth. Bad teeth can cause bad breath.

Dirty hands and fingernails could carry infectious diseases or infestations from one client to another. Therefore it is important to ensure that your hands are sanitised between clients.

Hairdressing is a very personal service and the personal hygiene and appearance of the people who work in the industry is of great importance. You must pay close attention to:

Hygiene

• daily shower or bath• the use of antiperspirants

and deodorants• oral (mouth) hygiene

Appearance

• hair and makeup – the latter relating mainly to female stylists

• hands and nails• shoes• jewellery• posture

Why must you change your clothing every day?

GH12.2.9


Slide GH12.2.9aThe importance of personal hygiene


Slide

The importance of personal hygiene

Hygiene

• daily shower or bath and change of clothing – this is essential to ensure personal freshness

• the use of antiperspirants and deodorants – use only on clean skin

• oral (mouth) hygiene – bad teeth can cause bad breath, brush frequently and visit the dentist regularly

Appearance

• hair must be clean and worn in a suitable style • makeup (female barbers) should be appropriate to your salon’s

requirements

• hands and nails must be clean and kept in good condition

• shoes – must be clean and in good repair

• jewellery – should be appropriate to your salon’s requirements but should not create a risk of causing harm to yourself or the client, eg, by getting caught in equipment

• posture – do not slouch, stand relaxed but with your back straight.

GH12.2.9b



Session 2

1. List the protective clothing materials that are available for hair cutting.

2. State the methods of working safely and hygienically when cutting hair.

3. State the importance of avoiding cross infection and infestation.

4. State three ways of sterilising or disinfecting tools and equipment in the salon.

5. State why it is important to position tools for ease of use.

6. How should scissors be held when cutting hair?

7. How would you clean your scissors?

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Handout

The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting - (1 of 4)

The factors that must be considered before you begin to cut a client’s hair are:

• suspected infections and infestations• density• texture• hair type• elasticity• head and face shape• piercings• growth patterns• hair and scalp disorders

Suspected infectionsIt is possible to pass infections from one client to another. You must ensure very high standards of hygiene to minimise this risk.

The infections that are likely to be spread in a salon are:

• impetigo• ringworm of the head

A suspected infection can be recognised by:

• open, weeping skin• red, inflamed skin or scalp• presence of a rash

Remember: You are not a doctor - if you see a suspected infection you must refer the client to seek medical attention - do not try to diagnose it yourself.

Suspected infestationsIt is important to ensure that infestations are not passed on but you will not be able to take steps to prevent this if you don’t recognise the most common infestation. You must learn to recognise head lice.A suspected infestation of head lice can be recognised by:

• itchy skin or scalp• redness• parasite or eggs visible• presence of a rash

It is possible to see the lice in the hair or on the scalp, and the nits, tiny grey/white eggs, are stuck to the hairs close to the scalp, usually around the ears and in the nape area – the warm areas of the head

Hair densityHair density refers to the quantity of individual hairs within a given area, eg one square centimetre. Some people have many more hairs growing on their scalp than others and that the main reason for this is due to genetic inheritance.

Hair density can also vary considerably within one head of hair, for example - high density through the crown area but much lower density below the occipital bone and in the temple regions.

You must take the density of the hair into account when deciding on a look for the client. If his hair is very sparse or abundant certain looks may not be suitable.

GH12.3.1


Handout

The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting - (2 of 4)

Hair textureHair texture is determined by the diameter of a single strand of hair.

Texture can be classified as:

• Fine• Fine to medium• Medium• Medium to coarse• Coarse

General characteristics of the different hair textures are:

Fine hair texture

• Small diameter• Fewer layers of cuticle scale -

approximately 4 layers• Absence of the medulla

Medium hair texture

• Medium diameter• More layers of cuticle scale -

an average of 7 layers on a medium hair texture

• Presence or partial presence of the medulla

Coarse hair texture

• Large diameter• Many layers of cuticle scale –

up to 12 layers • Continuous presence of the medulla

The texture of the client’s hair may be unsuitable for the required look. Fine, soft hair often lies flat to the head whereas coarse hair is sometimes voluminous.

Hair typeHair type is defined as how curly or straight the hair is.

There are three generic groups of hair type:

• African Caribbean often very curly and wooly

• Asian often very straight

• Caucasian/European can be curly, wavy or straight

The curls or straightness of the hair can also be natural or artificial.

When the client chooses a look check that it is suitable for the hair type – the hair may be too curly or too straight for the chosen look.

Notes.

GH12.3.1


Handout GH12.3.1The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting - (3 of 4)

Hair elasticityYou must take the hair’s elasticity into account when cutting hair – if it has good elasticity properties, it will stretch and return to the original length.

Remember: Wet hair will stretch further than dry hair so apply the correct degree of tension when cutting the hair. If you stretch wet hair too much when cutting it will be too short when it dries and returns to its unstretched state.

Head and face shapeYou must choose a look that will complement the client’s head and face shape. Avoid haircuts that emphasise any bad features the client may have. Give the client advice on the most suitable look and make use of visual aids such as style books to help the client to agree the best style.

PiercingsIt is fashionable at present to have pierced ears or eyebrows and you must check for these to ensure that you don’t catch them with the comb or cutting tools while working. It may be best to ask the client to remove any jewellery from these piercings during the cut.

Hair growth patternsA hair does not grow straight up out of the skin, instead it grows out of the follicle at a definite angle. This angle determines the direction that the hair will lie, and determines the patterns that the hairs make on the head.

Hairline shapes are an inherited characteristic and can vary greatly.

You must identify any growth patterns because these can influence the way the hair is cut as well as the choice of look. The most common are:

• cowlick – at the front hairline. Some looks are unsuitable for this pattern as the hair usually falls into a natural parting at the cowlick. You must not cut the hair too short in this area or it will stick straight out from the head

• double crown – this growth pattern is often confused with an offset crown. A true double crown is when there are two distinct whorls or circles in the crown area. The hair must be left longer in this area or it sticks up from the head and is uncontrollable

• neck or nape whorl – this is when the hair grows upwards or towards the centre at one or both sides of the neckline. The hair must either be left long enough to cover the growth pattern or cut into a very short, tapered neckline shape

• widows peak – this pattern forms a point at the centre of the front hairline because the hair grows from the centre upwards and outwards towards the sides so certain looks cannot be achieved. It is better to leave the hair longer or to cut it very short.


Handout GH12.3.1The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting - (4 of 4)

Hair and scalp disordersMany hair or scalp disorders will affect the choice of haircut to be done.

The most common are:

• damaged cuticle – the hair feels dry and will be porous. Often affects the ends of the hair. Can be due to physical or chemical damage

• split ends (fragilitas crinium) – caused by physical or chemical damage. The points of the hair become dry and split

• alopecia – there are different types of alopecia but all result in areas of baldness. The skin is very smooth and looks shiny

• psoriasis – thickened, raised patches of skin. It can look silvery and is very itchy

• sebaceous cyst – a lump on the scalp caused by a blocked sebaceous gland

• eczema – red, weeping, irritated skin. Can be painful

• dandruff – greasy dandruff is a scalp condition that may be caused by a fungal infection. Dry dandruff may be due to chemical use. Small pieces of skin flake off and are trapped in the hair or drop onto the neck and shoulders. Looks unsightly.

Of the listed hair and scalp disorders, none are infectious or contagious (except if dandruff is sometimes caused by a fungus).

Notes.


Handout GH12.3.2Factors which should be considered when cutting wet hair and dry hair - (1 of 2)

Human hair has properties of elasticity. This means that when it is in good condition, it can stretch and return to its original length. Hair in poor condition does not have good elasticity. The elasticity of hair is just one factor that must be taken in consideration when deciding whether to cut hair wet or dry.

Cutting wet hair

• When hair is wet it stretches more than when it is dry and this must be considered when cutting. If you stretch wet hair during cutting it will be shorter when it dries and goes back to its unstretched state. This is very important, especially when cutting a fringe.

• Wet hair clings together so it stays in the blades of the scissors therefore you must avoid using thinning scissors on wet hair, as you are likely to remove too much hair.

• When thinning with a razor the hair must be wet.

• The natural lie (or fall) of the hair is more easily seen when the hair is wet and this helps when choosing a suitable look.

Cutting dry hair

• When using scissors on dry hair remember that the hair will move very slightly out of the blades during cutting so it may not be possible to achieve the same degree of precision and definition as can be achieved when cutting wet hair.

• Thinning scissors and clippers should only be used on dry hair. If you use them on wet hair you may remove too much hair

• Scissor over comb technique can be completed more easily on dry hair, as the comb glides through the short dry hair more effortlessly than on wet hair.

• Tools used on dry hair must be very sharp or they will simply push the hair out of the blades.

• When the hair is dry it is easy to see its natural movement and any growth patterns. This can help you to decide how much hair to remove to achieve a specific look.

Notes.


Handout GH12.3.2Factors which should be considered when cutting wet hair and dry hair - (2 of 2)

Summary: The factors to be considered for cutting hair wet or dry are:

hair type; this can more easily be seen when the hair is dry and will help you to decide if the hair is too curly, wavy or straight to achieve the desired look

hairstyle; when the hair is wet you can see how it lies, if it falls to one side or the other, if there is a natural parting, etc.

hair growth patterns; these are more easily seen when the hair is dry and can influence your decision as to how short to cut the hair

hair elasticity; if the elasticity is good then you should avoid putting too much tension on wet hair while cutting as it will stretch then it will be shorter than you intended once it dries and returns to its natural state

Remember that the hair may have been blow-dried and this can camouflage growth patterns, hair type and natural lie.

Should thinning scissors be used on wet hair or on dry hair?

Why should clippers only be used on dry hair?

Notes


Handout GH12.3.3Average rate of hair growth and the hair growth cycle- (1 of 2)

Average rate of growthThe average rate of hair growth is approximately 1.25 cm per month. This is about the same as 1/2 inch per month and is due to new cells being produced at the hair root.

It is important that you know this so that you can advise the client as to how soon they should return to the salon in order to maintain their hairstyle.

Clients should be encouraged to visit the salon to have their hair cut at least every six weeks. Regular cutting is necessary for the style and shape of the haircut to be maintained. This will also remove any damaged ends that have been caused by regular heat styling.

The growth cycle of hairHair grows, ceases to grow, falls out, and renews itself on a continual basis. If this growth pattern ever stops, or is temporarily halted, the hair will not replace itself and the client will go bald.

Most human hair grows continually from around 1 1/2 years to up to seven years. You may have noticed that some people cannot grow their hair long while others can grow their hair very long. This is because they have an unusually long growing stage in the growth.

There are three stages in the growth cycle:

AnagenThis is the main growing stage when the germinal matrix and the papilla are working hard to produce hair cells. It can last from a few months to a few years.

CatagenThis is when the hair stops growing and the hair bulb gradually separates from the papilla and shrinks away from it upwards inside the follicle.

TelogenThis is the resting stage when no growth occurs. The follicle shrinks and fully separates from the papilla. This stage does not usually last very long, from a few hours up to around four months. However, if it does not come to an end then baldness results.

The human hair growth cycle is individual to each hair – they reach different stages at different times so that there is a continuous renewal and replacement of old hairs.

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Session 3

1. State why the following must be taken into consideration prior to cutting hair.• Hairgrowthpatterns• Hairtexture• Suspectedinfection

2. List three items that should be identified when the hair is dry prior to cutting.

3. List two items that should be identified when the hair is wet prior to cutting.

4. State two benefits of cutting hair wet.

5. State whether the following techniques for cutting should be carried out on wet or dry hair.• Razorcutting• Thinning• Clippercutting• Scissorovercomb

6. State the average rate of growth for hair.

7. Name the three phases of the hair growth cycle.

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Handout GH12.4.1Facial Shapes

Oval Oblong Round Square

Heart shape or triangular

Pear shaped Rectangular


Activity GH12.41Your trainer will show you a range of haircuts.Look carefully at the cuts and decide which haircuts are most appropriate for the facial shapes on Handout GH12.4.1Note your findings here:

Notes


Slide GH12.4.1Facial Shapes

Oval Oblong Round Square

Heart shape or triangular

Pear shaped Rectangular


Handout GH12.4.2Shampooing the hair prior to cutting services and client consultation - (1 of 2)

Prior to the cutting service, before the hair is shampooed it is important to check the following factors before the haircut begins:

All these must be checked on dry hair:

• hair texture• hair density• hair type• hair growth patterns• signs of disease or disorder• signs of infection or infestation• piercings

In addition, you must carry out a full consultation with the client to establish their requirements.

Following the shampoo, the following should be checked

• natural partings• elasticity• natural movement in the hair

In addition, you must confirm the wishes of the client before you begin to cut the hair and continue with the consultation throughout the cutting service.

Client consultation during the cutting serviceIt is important for the consultation that was started prior to the cut beginning is continued throughout whole of the cutting service.

The consultation should continue for the following reasons:

• The client may be worried about the amount of hair you are cutting

• The client may change their minds about their original request part way through the cut

In addition, you will have the opportunity to:

• explain what you are doing and what you are going to do next

• confirm that the length and shape of the haircut are meeting with client requirements

• adapt and change the cut if necessary

Notes.


Handout GH12.4.2Shampooing the hair prior to cutting services and client consultation - (2 of 2)

Why must signs of disease or disorder be checked before the hair is shampooed?

Why must natural partings be checked on wet hair?

Notes.


Handout GH12.4.5How and when to use club, freehand and scissor over comb

You must be able to decide when to use specific techniques as well as know how to use them. This knowledge will help you to achieve the look that the client wants.

How to use different techniques:

• club cutting – comb the hair smooth from the roots, hold it securely between the fingers or in the comb at the correct angle to achieve the desired effect and cut it straight across

• freehand – comb the hair smooth and into position then cut it without holding or supporting it with either your hand or your comb

• scissors over comb – the hair is lifted and held in the comb by combing the hair in an upward motion and the hair that protrudes through the comb is cut, holding the scissors above the comb. Use the coarse teeth of the comb when cutting the longer hair and the fine teeth for holding the short hair around the ears and in the nape.

When to use different techniques:

• club cutting – to reduce the length of the hair without removing any of the bulk

• freehand – when tension is to be avoided, eg around a growth pattern or at the outside line of the haircut if the hair is curly

• scissors over comb – this technique is used to shorten hair and to achieve graduation in a haircut.

Which of the listed techniques requires the greatest degree of tension when cutting?

Which of the listed techniques requires the least degree of tension when cutting?

Notes.


Handout GH12.4.6The reasons for establishing and following guidelines - (1 of 2)There are three main reasons for establishing and following guidelines:

• to decide on the overall length and shape of the cut

• to help you to progress methodically through the cut

• to help you to achieve accuracy in the cut

It is very important that you determine the lengths that the hair is going to measure at the different areas of the head. This is done by creating a guideline or guidelines.

A guideline can be placed to run horizontally - at the nape, from ear to ear around the back of the head or across the crown. It can also be positioned vertically, usually from the centre front hairline through to the centre back neckline.

It does not matter where the guideline starts or finishes, the important feature of any guideline is that it is accurate. If more than one guideline is prepared you must ensure that when the cut is carried out the guidelines are connected, otherwise the cut will be uneven.

As you progress from one area of the head to another, the first cut you make will be the new guideline. The next cut is made to follow the first guideline therefore this now becomes the guideline. By matching each piece of hair to the piece previously cut you will be following the original guideline. It is important to follow any graduation in the guideline or the shape of the haircut will be lost.

If you follow the guidelines you will be able to work your way over the head in a methodical, structured way and this will help to ensure an accurate, balanced haircut.

Notes


Handout GH12.4.6The reasons for establishing and following guidelines - (2 of 2)

How to cross-check and balance the cut and why this is importantWhen a hairdresser does a haircut s/he takes sections of hair into their comb or fingers and these sections will run:

• up and down the head - vertical sections

• across the head – horizontal sections

If you have used vertical sections when cutting the hair you must take horizontal sections to check the accuracy of the cut. If you have used horizontal sections when cutting then use vertical sections when checking.

This is why the process is called ‘cross’ checking, you work across the original sectioning method.

It is very important that you cross-check the cut if you are to be sure that the cut is accurate and meets the client’s requirements.

When balancing the cut ensure that it is an even length at both sides of the head – use the features of the head and face to measure the hair. However, take into account that the features may be very slightly uneven.

What might happen if you fail to cross-check a cut?


Handout GH12.4.7How to create and follow a guideline for different looks - (1 of 2)

Uniform layerHold the hair at 90° to the scalp with the fingers parallel to the scalp, cut to the required length. Use this section as a guide for all subsequent sections and hold these at 90° to the scalp with the fingers parallel to the scalp. The hair is cut to the same length all over.

GraduationA graduation may be:

• a short graduation – shorter in the nape area, getting longer towards the crown

• a long graduation – longer in the nape area, getting shorter towards the crown

Graduation using vertical sectionsTake a narrow section of hair at the area to be graduated and at right angles to the hairline, position your fingers in relation to the scalp at the angle of graduation that you want and cut the hair to the chosen length. Continue taking small sections in a straight line through the head, increasing or decreasing the lengths until you reach the centre back hairline. Follow this guideline around the head.

Graduation using horizontal sectionsTake a narrow section of hair across the nape or at the crown. Hold the hair at an appropriate angle to achieve the graduation that you want and cut the hair to the chosen length. Your fingers or the comb should be parallel to the scalp.

Continue taking small sections working up or down the head depending on where you positioned the guideline, increasing or decreasing the lengths as you go.

Use the sections that you have previously cut as guidelines for each new section.

Notes.


Handout GH12.4.7How to create and follow a guideline for different looks - (2 of 2)

Long graduated looksA long graduated cut is one in which the inside lengths of the hair cut are shorter than the outside lengths.

A guide line for the shortest length of the haircut should be made first. This is usually at the top of the head. A narrow section, running vertically from the front hair line to just before the crown area is made. The hair is held at a right angle to the scalp and cut parallel to the scalp to the desired length.

This guideline can then be used for all subsequent sections. Each new section is combed to meet the first section, held to meet the same right angle of the first section and cut to the length of the first section.

As each section of hair comes from an area lower down the head, the length will naturally increase, therefore a long graduated cut is achieved.

One length cutThe length of the outline shape is the guideline for a one length cut. The hair is sectioned and the first section is cut by holding the hair as close as possible to the head, neck or body (depending on the length of the cut). All other subsequent sections are cut to this overall length.

Notes.


Handout GH12.4.9The importance of considering weight distribution and working with the natural fall of the hair

It is very important to consider the natural fall of the hair and its weight distribution when cutting hair. If you fail to do this you may not achieve the required look.

Weight distributionThe hair may be sparse on the top, it may be very bulky in the nape or behind the ears. A hairdresser should check the weight distribution at the consultation and design the haircut accordingly.

Natural fall of the hairYou must take the natural fall of the hair (sometimes called the natural lie) into consideration when choosing a look and the techniques to use. The hair may stick up from the scalp, it may lie very close to the head or it may be pushed up or to the side by a strong growth pattern or a natural parting.

If you do not work with the natural fall the result will be unsatisfactory.

How the angle at which the hair is held will affect the weight distribution, balance and degree of graduation of the cut

You must be very careful to consider the angle at which you hold the hair for cutting. If you hold it at less than 90° to the scalp and the floor it will result in the weight being concentrated at the bottom of the haircut. If you hold it at more than 90° there will be little weight at the bottom and the hair may look straggly at the nape area.

The balance of the haircut will also be affected by the angle at which you hold the hair, particularly if you hold the hair at a slightly different angle at one side. This will make the hair slightly longer and it will look fuller on one side.

The degree of graduation of the cut will be affected by the angle at which the hair is held: • If you hold the hair at right angles to the

head and cut it at 90° you will achieve a 45° graduation.

• If the hair is held at right angles to the head and cut at approximately 135° the result will be almost level – a one length cut.

• If you hold the hair at right angles to the head and cut it at 45° the result will be a steep, sharp graduation

Notes.


Slide GH12.4.9Cutting angles



Session 4

1. Give the name of four basic face shapes.

2. State why you must consider the elasticity of hair when carrying out a cut.

3. State the effects of club cutting.

4. State how to carry out freehand cutting.

5. State the importance of crosschecking the haircut.

6. State the shape of a haircut where the hair is held 90o to the scalp and cut to the same length all over the head.

7. State the shape of haircut where the hair is shorter on the perimeter and longer on the inside lengths.

8. Explain the ‘natural fall’ of hair.

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