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shahi exportsTRANSCRIPT
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
A A
SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORTSUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT
AtAt
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURUSHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURU
(UNIT-7A)(UNIT-7A)
A Summer Internship Report for partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree in
Masters of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production
Department of Fashion Technology
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
BATCH – 2009-11
SUBMITTED BY :
SUBRAMANIUM GS
M.F.Tech (A.P.)
1Summer Internship Report 2010
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
PREFACE
National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute under Ministry of Textiles, Govt.
of India and is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India.
Department of fashion Technology is imparting education in crucial areas of technology
application in garment manufacturing.
The industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with industry
application for the students. This internship helps industry to analyze day-to-day activities with
the help of internees who in turn will learn practical application of different principles and will be
able to draw inferences.
This report attempts to present my experiences as an internee in India’s premier export house,
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT.LTD, BENGALURU. I basically worked with the production
department but it involved interaction with the other departments as well.
The aim of this internship program was to gain practical knowledge in our area of specialization
i.e. production. It gave me an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get the
first-hand knowledge of working under various department of the entire exports house. It gave me
a feel of work culture and the actual environment of working of export-oriented unit. Through this
program I also got to apply theoretical knowledge into practice.
Internship was a great learning experience for me. It helped me to practically see what was
available in the books. I could also learn many new practical aspects of the industry which can't
be learnt through books. At the end internship provides a gateway for the industry.
The final chapter of this report discusses in detail about my project which was done along with a
student from NIFT Bengaluru and is titled “COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION” in various
departments of unit 7-A and to determine the cost of quality percentage for the factory. This
project helped me to know more about the working and functionality of various departments in
detail.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It has all been a great experience being at Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd., Bengaluru. I am
highly thankful to the management and staff for their appreciable support during my internship. I
would like to give my special thanks to Mr. SubhashTiwari (Director). Without his approval,
my internship would have been impossible.
Along with him I must not forget Mr. P. Shivagurunathan(Lean manager). He was my
guide and mentor, who helped me to continue with such a fine project. It was all because of him
that I learnt and inquired.
I thank all my respondents including people from Cutting, Sampling, Sewing, Finishing,
Washing, IE, Stores and Lab who have given me their valuable time by providing me with
sufficient knowledge about the working scenario. The list is unending as the workers were very
co-operative and it seems that without their help I couldn’t have managed to complete my project
and training.
Our sincere thanks go to, Mr. N A Khan (Course- Coordinator, MFT), Ms Riju
Jakhar (Assistant Professor), Ms. Chandni Khatri (Assistant Professor), Ms. Bhavna
Kapoor Verma (Associate Professor), who were our internship coordinators, and all other
faculty members, Master of fashion Technology- Apparel Production, department of fashion
technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi.
Thanking you all.
With regards,
SUBRAMANIUM GS
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO
1INTRODUCTION
1.1.COMPANY PROFILE
1.2.GENERAL
7
2 DEPARTMENTS
2.1. MERCHANDISING
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
2.10. CAD ROOM
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
10
14
18
21
24
29
32
35
38
42
44
51
60
62
66
68
3 PROJECT3.1.TITLE3.2. METHODOLOGY3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA
7065
73
82
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
3.2.3.TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING3.2.4.COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA3.3.CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE
86
116
4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 4.1.FINDINGS4.2.RECOMENDATIONS4.3.CONCLUSION
119122123
5 FORMATS
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD., BENGALURU
VISION
Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of
Fashion & feelings of comfort.
QUALITY POLICY
We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources,
multi products expertise and continuous process improvement, committed
delight customers by consistently delivering high quality product on time.
QUALITY OBJECTIVE
Delivering quality product on time
Minimizing quality cost
Increasing productivity
Continuous improvement
Employee development
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1.COMPANY PROFILE:
Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORT PVT. LTD. (UNIT-7A)
Year of Establishment : Jan, 2006, Shahi (wovens) Unit-7A
1974 (Faridabad), 1988 (Bangalore)
No. of Units :Delhi & NCR -14, Bangalore- 25 (19Woven’s+6 Knits)
Managing Director : Mr. Harish Ahuja
Type of Organization :Pvt.Ltd. Export Oriented
Annual Turnover(All units ) :Rs1500.Crore
Total Workforce (Unit-7A) :2500
Total Batch/Lines (Unit-7A) :20
Capacity (Unit-7A) : 1.5 lakh Pcs /Month (Approx)
Address (Unit-7A) :Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035
1.2. GENERAL
Established in Delhi in 1974, Shahi Exports stand vertically integrated as one of the
largest manufacturer and Exporter in India, offering ready to wear garments for Ladies, Men and
Children. Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. In
the last 30 years it has expanded by 60 times, with 33 integrated State of Art production units.
Factories are equipped with State of the art manufacturing technology automated machines,
thereby ensuring consistency and optimum efficiency. Shahi has invested resources in creating its
own fabric base for both woven and knits. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and printing mill and
knitting facility. Shahi also offer widest choice of fabrics for garments mainly shirts with
continuous fabric Developments and Innovations through its own Design Studio.
Shahi, Faridabad is the Corporate Head Office and all the marketing merchandising
functions are done there. At Bangalore, there are 19 garments Units handling woven garments and
6 Units in Knitted. All the activities of Woven Division at Bangalore are coordinated from the
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
main office from Unit-7 at Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035, and the
activities of Knits division is monitored from Knits Head, Unit No. 12 # 37/1B, Arekere,
Bannerghatta Road, - 560 076, INDIA Marketing office located in NEW YORK ,USA will
procure the indirect orders and sent it to the Delhi office for execution, planning will be done for
execution of the orders and the head office at Delhi will allocate and distribute the orders to new
Delhi or Bangalore production plants.
Unit 7 is the Bangalore head office, where the orders are received. From Bangalore head office
orders are distributed to various production units according to their production capacity.
Centralized department rendering service to all the units in BangaloreProduction Service
Accessories store Washing department Embroidery department Cutting department Laboratory Fabric inspection department
Sourcing department Accounts department Documentation department Personnel department
The organization works on a single ERP system, MOVEX, which unifies all the departments
working and leads to efficient functioning. This allows handling the manufacturing, logistics and
distribution, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for the company.
There are different Strategic Business Units in Shahi Exports as follows:
LSD – Ladies Specialty Division
LFD – Ladies Fashion Division
LDD – Ladies Dress Division
MNB – Men’s and Boys Division
PRODUCTS:
Unit-7A ,is mainly focused on LADIES TOPS
1. Blouses
2. Dresses
3. Shirt
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
4. Tunic
5. Camp shirt
Other units product are:
1. Tops casual wear 7. Polo
2. Dress shirts 8. Hoody
3. Denim wear 9. Crew neck
4. Wrinkle free shirts and blouses 10. Cargo shorts
5. Bottoms casual wear 11. Night wear
6. Ladies /Men’s shirt 12. Fleece jacket
BUYERS
1. GAP 9. LANE BRYANTS 16. SEARS
2. OLD NAVY 10. KOHLS 17. TOMMY HILFIGER
3. A&F 11. VETIR 18. WALMART
4. CATO 12. JCP 19.AMERICAN EAGLE
5. DECATHLON 13. H&M 20. ESPIRIT
6. HOLLISTER 14. TARGET 21. MARKS & SPENCER
7. ANN TAYLOR 15. BANANA REPUBLIC
8. RALPH LAUREN
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CHAPTER 2
2.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in shahi exports
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising
Main function of marketing merchandising is
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct
contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
A Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows:-
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior
merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.
Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with
buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples
approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,
approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product
development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate
with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall
we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.
Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost
etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done
accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
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Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Sampling
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD
Analyze cost of trims and fabric
Obtain general sewing data from IED
Prepare cost sheet from sample
Develop sample as per the tech pack
Develop proto sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Approval
Cost sheet reworked
Confirmation of order
Obtain PCD & details from production unit
Source trims & fabric from
concerned dept.
Book washing & embroidery capacity if required
Obtain GSD from IED
Execution of order by entering details in MOVEX
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Approval
Comments received from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample reworked
Hold pre production meeting with the production unit
Execute bulk order
Costing
Follow up with production departments & update the buyer
Submit required documents to documentation dept
Offer garments for final inspection. Truck out
Follow up on the payments for goods
End
NoYes
NoYes
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORK FLOW;
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments
and it plays a vital in the upliftment of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production
department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to
check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer.The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric
details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this
information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and
approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
In Shahi, Sampling department is centralized in unit-7 of Shahi, Bangalore for wovens.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments
are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start
off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of
production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating
correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a complete
make through garment. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and
requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
Garment Package Test Sample:
Show Room Sample:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Counter Sample:
Sales Sample:
Machine details
There were a total of 80 machines in the sampling department.
5 cutting tables
8 pattern making tables
1 conveyor belt fusing machine
Finishing machines
11 ironing tables
1 shirt folding machine
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Other machines
SNLS machine
DNLS machine
Bartack machine
Overlock machine
Kansai Special
Zigzag Lockstitch machine
Blind stitch machine
and others
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
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Tech pack received from merchant
Develop patterns
Costing CAD marker
Develop sample
Develop fit/proto sample
Revise Fit/Proto sample
PP sample
Revise PP sample Size set sample
Incorporate buyer comments
Sealer sample
Incorporate buyer comments
Bulk production (shrinkage to be added if it’s a wash program)
If no comments
If no comments
If no comments
If no comments
If any comments comments
If any comments comments
If any comments comments
If any comments comments
Fig 3: Workflow of sampling
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute
their function effectively.
Fabric Store:
The capacity of the store is about 100,000Mts.
The Sourcing of Fabric is being done mainly from:
1. Yarn Dyed – Salem & Tirupur
2. Printed Fabric – Ghaziabad(Shahi own Mill)
3. Denim fabric – Arvind Mills, Ashima Textile
4. Imported Fabric – According to buyer’s specification from China, Hong kong
etc
Examples of certain Mills that specializes in some particular types of fabric is as follow:
Vardhman mills(H.P) specializes in Solid Dyed 40s Poplin
Arvind mills specializes in all types of fabric Denims, Knits, Bottom wear
Ashima mills specializes in all type of high end fabrics
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked
fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such a system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate
the fabric whenever needed in future.
FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it
is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and
quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric requisition from merchandiser
Order placed
Fabric receive invoice/challan
Unloading after checking
Tally with supplier invoice for quality
Send bill to gate for entry
Receive fabric in store
Forward fabric for inspection
Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.
After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted
If accepted
Relocation in store
Issue against job order
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
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Start
Sampling
Technical analysis. Vendor evaluation/selection of vendor
Placement
D/L
Submit to buyer
If Ok
Sampling yardage/ lab tests
Final approval by buyer
Redo D/L
If not Ok
Placement, lab dips/strike offs submission to buyer
Rate finalisation, sampling yardage, lab tests
Final submission to buyer
End
Receiving order, technical analysis/ process starts for technical development, vendor selection
Rate quotation from different mills
TNA/Execution plan/placement of order for production
On line inspection
If Ok If not Ok
Lab testing as per buyer requirement
Mending/cleaning/washing
Despatch to vendor’s godown
Technical monitor/ corrective measures
Process
If required
Sanforising/dyeing/prints/OXO/washing/wet processing
Lab test as per buyer requirement
Third party inspection as per buyer standards
Third party inspection as per buyer standards
If not required
Pass Pass
Vendor evaluation/ feedback to vendor
End
Reject
If not Ok
Bulk
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department :
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference
is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the
same. The working is as follows.
The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the
price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its
production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button
is Rs.32 then a CST of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the
transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is
also taken into consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all
the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer. In case of getting the accessories
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
and trims for the sampling purposes then only a small quantity say about 100 – 200 pieces are
ordered and the supplier charges the minimum amount or sometimes gives it free of cost.
After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them
are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser
according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then
the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be
sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the
department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the
inspections that are being carried out for those materials.
The communication between the merchandiser and the purchase department happens
mainly through phone calls but no matter however small the situation is, both the departments
maintain a e-mail also i.e., along with the phone call they send an e-mail also. Communication
between the supplier and the purchase department happens purely through e-mails. All these e-
mails, receipts, PO’s, PI’s, Formats, Order formats, etc., are maintained as a hard copy also.
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Start
Indents MRS/IOM/Mails from units
Authorization from HOD/CEO for capital items
Call for quotes in case of new items
Evaluation of quotes by HOD
Raising PO on supplier & taking approval from manager commercial
Follow-up with supplier for deliveries
Material receipt in the unit
Material inspected accompanied by appropriate documents
If Approve
d
Goods inwards
Acknowledged documents forwarded to purchase
Stock updated in the unit
Returned to supplier and inform purchase
End
If Yes If No
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
The fabric audit department for the woven division of SEPL is centralized. It is at unit – 7. The main objectives of this department are:
Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods. Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.
Inspection is done on the following grounds:
100% shade segregation is done. 100% width segregation is done. 15% fabric inspection is done for defects. 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics. The fabric is checked in full width form only. The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.
SHADE SEGREGATION
The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:
The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report. Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut
for lab tests if any.
¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades. Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is matched.
In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also. While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching
cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources. The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing
departments, cutting departments for approval and references. All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.
FABRIC INSPECTION
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IN STICKER ACTUALBALE NO. PIECE NO.
FOLD LENGTH (IN CMS)
WIDTH (IN INCHES)
EPI PPIMETERAGE
THICK THIN SLUBWARP & WEFT
DEFECTSYARN DEFECTS
PENALTY POINTS FOR DEFECTSBOWING LEVEL
(IN INCHES)CS/SS
VARIATIONOTHERS TOTAL
POINTSPRINTING/DYEING DEFECTS & STAINS
WEAVING DEFECTS
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
In SEPL, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious defects in the subsequent process. Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :
LEVEL POINT INDICATION0-3 inches 1 Yellow3-6 inches 2 Green6-9 inches 3 NavyOver 9 inches 4 Red
Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:o 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.
o 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.
For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is calculated as:Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length
in mtrs)Example:-PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yardsFAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards
Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.
The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by supplier.
For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard reference randomly.
Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order for shrinkage test.
The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).T
he GIR reports have following categories:
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POINTS/100 SQ. YARDS
THAN CLASSIFICATIONACCEPTED BELOW
40 POINTSREJECTED ABOVE 40
POINTS
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is specified.
When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with different colored stickers for different types of defects as:
Red Sticker Weaving Defect
Blue Sticker Processing Defect
Green Sticker Other Defects
Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.
The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings are kept for reference.
INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS
The width is checked and average width is mentioned. The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned. The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable. Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable. For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:
WIDTH LEVEL
Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable
45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable
60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable
After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the respective roll. It contains following information:
Tag used:
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
This sticker is of green color for the pass fabrics and magenta for the rejected fabric rolls or takkas.
MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE
Type R 501Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 HzPower output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 HzGear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.Power consumption 0,75 kw
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY LIGHT SOURCES FOR VARIOUS BUYERS
S. NO BUYER NAMEPRIMARY LIGHT
SECONDARY LIGHT
1 GAPCWF INCA
2 HOLLISTER3 A & F INCA
D 654 CATO
TL 845 DECATHLON6 LANE BRYANT7 KOHLS8 VETIR D 65 TL 849 JCP U 30 INCA10 H & M TL 83
D 65
11 GYMBOREEUL 3012 TARGET
13 SEARS14 TOMMY HILFIGER
CWF15 WALMART16 AMERICAN EAGLE
D 65 INCA17 ESPIRIT EUROPE’S
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I-BangalorePass fabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-Fabric - Qty- Colour- Width-No. of points- Date- By- Shade-Face side-
Receive fabrics
Start
Conduct shrinkage test on minimum 2 bits/bale or minimum 10 bits of consignment
Forward one meter of each consignment for lab test
Verify whether quantity received match with quantity ordered
Inform to stores and prepare goods received note (in case of imported fabric)
Inspection based on four points system. Match bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc.
Name shade lot as ABC
Send to merchant for buyer’s approval
If approvedForward to cutting department
End
Reject lot
If No
If No
If No
If Yes
If Yes
If Yes
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The accessory stores here is the central stores in the seventh unit is the centralized unit.
The accessory stores generally receives the materials from three different locations and they can
be classified into,
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Faridabad
Domestics
Imports
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents
i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and recieval whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that has been received from the merchants and also the department
also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would
have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the
accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular
material they will make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and
this is termed as PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.
After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the
buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods
received.
AQL quantity chart:
Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept
less than 151 8 0
151-280 20 0
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
500000-above 500 14
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the
nature of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills
whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill
other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them
about the materials in-housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Process selection :In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the
document for processing.
32Summer Internship Report 2010
Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PRE GRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment
PROCESS SELECTION
PRODUCTION ISSUES
Prepare work order
Prepare delivery challan
Forward trims along with documents for processing
Identify trims which have been approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories
Materials to be issued after inspection by security against DC
End
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been
approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as
already mentioned.
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Functioning of the Department:
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the
company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps
them to know the capacity of the production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style
to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the
particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that
has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components
in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines
required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing
of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style
and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of
the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment
for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire
style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the
GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates
on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and
finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the
merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management
every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about
3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the
batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are
committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators
and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This
sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of
the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit
idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different
departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of
mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then
the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
37Summer Internship Report 2010
Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units based on line openings and buyer’s ratings
Provide details to the respective units on PCD, order quantity & sample
Confirm the above details given to concerned units in consultation with GM & FM
Confirm in consultation with embroidery, washing departments
Confirm order plan with merchandising team
Provide MIS report to management every fortnight
Planning follow up with factory till order execution
End
Take inputs from IED on productivity based on garment analysis
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Functioning of the Department:
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for
such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.
The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in
Bangalore city.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
Fabric Sourcing department:
The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later
may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it
receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for
the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount
then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular
fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.
Count
Construction
Colour fastness to washing
Colour fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight
Accessory Stores:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists
of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,
Button breaking test
Coloured laces and tapes are tested for colour fastness
Colour fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment
fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular
material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, colour and other material
related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
Types of tests.
Urgency of the task.
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
Number of samples that has to be tested.
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the
departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and
the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and
then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then
after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the
concerned department form where they have got it.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart form having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a
very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward
reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary
to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;
Care of the fittings
Adjusting settings
Oil changing
Graph maintenance
Outward/inward reports
Needle weekly reports.
Machine configuration chart
Laser stock
History card
Needle log cards.
The maintenance department stock of m/c
MACHINE VARIATION TYPE UTILITY
LOCKSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 bobbin Placket making, top
stitching, edge stitching,
label making, safety
stitch, attaching self-
fabric neck binding tape
Doule needle
-fixed Bar
-split Bar
2 needle , 2 bobbin
CHAINSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 looper Neck rib, shoulder piping,
cuff top stitching,
shoulder top stitchingDouble needle
- tandom needle
- straight needle
1 needle, 1 looper
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
OVERLOCK 3 thread 1 needle, 2 loopers Shoulder seam
4 thread 2 needle, 2 loopers Side seam, underarm
seam,elastication,shoulder
seam
5 thread 2 needle, 3 loopers Trouser seam
6 thread 3 needle, 3 loopers Armhole seam,shoulder
seam
FLAT LOCK 3 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers Neck binding, cuff
binding, bottom hemming
4 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers 1
Spreader
Cover seam, bottom
hemming
5 thread 3 needle, 1 loopers 1
Spreader
elastication
6 thread 4 needle, 2 loopers 1
Spreader
Side seam
SPECIALISED
SEWING
MACHINERY
Shell stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers Decorative purpose,
dense overlock,
elastication, piping,
hemming, securing of
stitch etc
picotting 1 needle, 1 loopers
figotting 2 needle, 2 loopers
Pearl stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers
Blind hemming 1 needle, 2 loopers
Zigzag machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin
scalloping 1needle, 1 looper
(spreader)
Back latch 2 needle, 2 loopers
elastication 2 needle, 2 loopers
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Buttonhole machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button hole making
Buttonstitch machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button attaching
Types of needles and their norms
Needle systems
MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER
Single needle lockstitch DBX1
Single needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Single needle feed DBX1
Double needle lockstitch DPX1
Tandom needle lockstich UYX128/TVX3
Double needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3
Overlock DCX1/DCX27
Flatlock UYX128/DVX43
Picotting UOX163/TVX7
Scolpping UVX128/DVX43
Smoking DVKX25/DVX57
Shell stitch LS-151
Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1
Bar tack DPX5/DPX17
Button stitch( shank button) TQX3
Button stitch DPX5/DPX7
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7
Button hole DPX5
Zigzag DBX1
Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.10. CAD ROOM
SHAHI EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of
Optitex software package.
FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
Determining cutting average for costing
Making the most efficient cutting marker
Development and alteration of patterns
Development of size set pattern by grading
Embroidery graphics making
Digitizing the pattern
Thread consumption
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
Graded measurement spec sheet..
Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or tubular form),
tube size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.
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Receive spec sheet form
Receive patterns from pattern
Digitize pattern to feed in
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
47Summer Internship Report 2010
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
Cut ratio planning
Market planning according to the cut plan ratio
Output mini marker to printer
Output marker to plotter
Send to cutting room for cutting
Send to merchandiser for costing
Output to Graphtec plotter
Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling
WORK FLOW IN CAD
DEPARTMENT
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
Cutting is a process of separating parts form the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of
styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
Sampling average, weight of garment ( base fabric consumption only ), other trims
averages.
Measurement sheet
Design worksheet of the garment
Purchase order
Fabric requisition sheet
CAD mini marker
Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.
ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS
Solid cutting
Spreading
Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a
manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components
acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the
cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during
cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on
this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.
While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more
accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
marker as specified by the CAD. Where as the lay height depends upon the thickness of the
fabric and the capacity of the machine.
Cutting
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are
also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band
knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as
it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks
are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching
the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific
number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini
marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.
Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the
hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again
checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the
patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved are also
more due to cutting in two stages.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Spread
Match
Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns
Cut patterns
Match
Final precise shaping of patterns
Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-
bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The
worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the
cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important
means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are
sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted
out during garment finishing or washing.
Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle
will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the
amount required by the production department when asked for.
Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up
these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-
cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched
together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.
Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the
temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re
bundled.
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Details about machine in the cutting rooms:
Machine Quality Make
Spreading machine 2 F K Arna
Straight knives 10 Eastman
Band knives 1 F K Systema
CAM m/c 1 F K Systema
Fusing m/c 3 Fiblon
Technical features of CAM Cutter
Model: TP 3002, FTR 200/200 Make: FK Systema(Tukatech)
Number : 1
Actual cutting area 2m/2m
Actual vacuum strength 150 milibar (max)
Single bristle diameter 1.3 mm
Bristle length 40 mm
No. of bristle in one replaceable unit 17*17(=289)
Area of bristle unit that can be replaced 51.3 mm*50.64
Maximum layer width after compression 7.5 cm
Cutting speed 0- 40 m/min
Blade sharpening frequency 2.5 m – 3 m (of cutting)
Hard disk memory 850 MB
Inboard computer 486 4 MB RAM 66 MHz
Bristle conveyor movement while cutting yes
Bristle conveyor speed 19 m/min
Drilling yes
List of consumables Knife sharpener wheel, Polythene
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SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Maximum speed of unloading conveyer 48 m/min
Notch depth 2-6 mm
Straight and reverse cutting
Restarting of the cut from any marker point
Rotational speed of the cutting motor 3000 rpm (max)
Technical Features of Spreader
Model : Automat 1 CO, SX Make: FK Arena
Number : 2
Length of spreading table 40 meter
Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)
Height of spreading table 3 feet(36”)
Table top type smooth, card board type
Spreading mode face one way, nap one way
No of clamps 14
Two air channels on the bottom side of the table surface, along with 12 air nozzles per
square meter.
Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone of the table.
53Summer Internship Report 2010
Cutting package from production
manager
Acquire fabric from fabric store
Cut sample to check
Require Amende
nts
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Yes
No
Yes
NO
No
54Summer Internship Report 2010
Cut for initial size set
Assemble and check
Require amendments
Issue job order
Bulk cutting
Sorting
Cut plan
Bundling
Issue
Send to CAD for amendment
Receive amendment
pattern from CAD
WORK FLOW IN
CUTTING
DEPARTMENT
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55
days.
The production floor will receive the details like,
the style or the garment,
number of operators required,
the batch for which the style has to be installed,
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
target for each day
Breakup of the production quantity.
After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are
required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting
for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this
teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the
production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the
entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will
make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for
the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is
done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are
checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
In-process checking.
Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
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The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking
is done.
The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each
bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the
next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The
movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion
which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is
partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three
and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch
which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get
him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever
asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the
factory at any time.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular
line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of
the operators.
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Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from cutting
End line checking & AQL audit
Assembly
Parts preparation
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Measurement checking
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out End
In-Line checking
Washing
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives
the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in
determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost
of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production
of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in
knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if
they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the
given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by
the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants
suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any
of the steps and the method of doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also
includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different
places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the
TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels
that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked,
the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a
shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and
also maintain the quality of their work.
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After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single
operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM
value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working
that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about
the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified
period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,
20% - Highly Skilled
25% - Skilled
50% - Semi skilled
This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.
Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency,
working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training
for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity
a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a
previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which
he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to
know his skills and then grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production
review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation
carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated
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Skill type Grade
A Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow
the right one.
During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as
shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which
represent the machines.
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Start
Training, selection & development
Work Measurement Systems development
Selection of operators, helpers, supervisors, checkers, QC, etc.
Time study Method study
OPD Analysis
Line balancing
Skill matrix Batch layout Style bulletin
Batch performanc
e
End
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE
FOLLOWING STYLE:
Style NO.2 : FL130204T
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H025, H027
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
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SNOoperation description smv opr
ACT time in min
SAM trgt in pcs
SAM trgt in pcs M/C type
85% 100% 85% 1 collar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE2 clr run st 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT3 clr trim for run stitch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC4 clr clip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE5 clr edge st 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
6clr band iron
0.38 N 0.45158
134IRON
TABLE7 satin tape attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT8 clr band att to top clr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT9 clr peak ready 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC
10 clr ready trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
11clr peak turn & crease
0.57 N 0.67105
89IRON
TABLE12 cuff hem 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT14 cuff run st 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC
15clr peak turn &iron
0.54 N 0.64111
94IRON
TABLE16 slv open 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE17 slv snall plt att(folder) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT18 slv tack at plkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
19slvslve big plkt iron
0.72 N 0.8583
71IRON
TABLE20 slv big plkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT21 slve big plkt dia finish 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT22 back panel box pleat 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT23 back yoke att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT24 back yoke top st 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
25back patch fab iron
0.35 N 0.41171
146IRON
TABLE26 label att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT27 patch fab att to back yoke 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
28frnt bust dart st with side close
1.1 Y 1.2955
46 SNLS UBT
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30frnt pckt iron
0.6 N 0.71100
85IRON
TABLE31 frnt pckt att mark and set 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT33 bottom btn plkt hem (folder) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT34 B/H plkt att (kansai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT35 frnt back set(slv, clr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE36 shoulder att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT37 shoulder top st 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT38 clr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT39 clr finish uptosatin tape 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT40 clr finish above satin tape 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT41 slv tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT42 guesset & btm side edge st 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT43 sle O/L&btm gusset O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L44 slv top st &gusset T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS45 side seam att wth W/C label 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT46 side seam O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L47 side seam top st 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA48 pleat making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT50 cuff finish 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT51 cufftop st 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT52 btm stay st 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT53 btm hem 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT54 Total 31.89 Y 37.52
TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52 OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81 NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71
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2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest
embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the
merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in company,
the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample
of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this as their
reference sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be done
and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and check for
the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for
the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the garment while
performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format
and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation .
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that has
to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is something
done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been generated then they
conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be produced is
known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery action on the
garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is
after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.
The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting
department and then they start their embroidery process.
After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine there
are operators for this process.
The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the maximum
noise that is been produced by the machines.
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Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style
according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the
texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.
The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will
be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and
then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing department to match
the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel and the texture, for this the
merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in case of samples.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,
Type of the material.
The texture that is under demand.
The feel and look of the garment under demand.
Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).
Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
Types of threads used for in sewing.
Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
The sequence of the processes.
Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
Duration of the treatment.
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating the
garments in the desired sequence.
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the
garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then such
styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
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After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this
washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry
processing there are four different types they are,
1. Grinding
2. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
4. Crinkling
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet
processing involves mainly two types, they are
1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and pigment
dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the usage of the
dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.
2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are
classified as follows,
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
Softener wash
Desize wash
Enzyme wash
Stone enzyme wash
Rubber ball wash
Denim wash
Bleach wash
Tinting/ T- staining
Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else the
original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the dry
processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing and then
to the washing process.
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After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which
a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler
capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be
extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that
particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to
the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing section
or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after the washing
and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left over job on
them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units located
in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the garments from
different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in track of the
garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out for them, the
stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the garments
according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this department maintains a
record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number, PO number, item number,
quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department maintains these details both
in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department will enter the details in the
MOVEX. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from the different
units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also phone calls.
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Receipt of goods from different units
Segregation (JO wise, unit wise, shade wise)
Washing
As per buyer spec
Wet Processin
g
Dyeing
Reactive Pigment
Washing: softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/r
ubber ball/stone enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/
dip n dry/denim
Dry process: grinding/ripping/blowout/sand
blasting/crinkling/whiskering/ severen
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
Accounting & despatch to different units
End
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
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2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to garment
industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their
job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which
are as follows.
Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the
production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples and
precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The size set
samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking
the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these samples and the
auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the garment and the
measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the
length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt
loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and
also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment
areas, etc.,
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Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing
is further divided into many other departments which are,
1. Spreading
2. Relay cut
3. Band knife
4. Shade
5. Hard pattern
Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are
1. In – line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of
manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment is
split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the end of
each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is auditing.
For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire
manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front, finish if
back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the shirt is being
checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be provided by certain
specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which he checks the garment.
Here every single garment is checked.
2. End – line audit:
Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the
specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical
positions and then the placements of the labels.
Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job
is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it
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himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the
operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the garment to attach
the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be
sent to the respective departments for rectification
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department:
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it
plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department includes
majorly of the following steps,
Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.
Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
Semi – pressing:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then
inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
Pressing:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments
are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
Tagging section:
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Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are
sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments
are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or
sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s
specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be
put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
Packing:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be
specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag
packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in
the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton
boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different ways
which is as follows,
Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single colour
and same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will be
put in one carton box.
Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different
sizes according to the ratio.
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For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same
size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
CHAPTER 3
3.1.PROJECT
TITLE- COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION FOR AN APPAREL MANUFACTURING
UNIT.
INTRODUCTION:
Though the Indian apparel industry has made efforts towards controlling the outgoing quality of the merchandise; the ‘right first time’ quality level in various manufacturing processes needs substantial improvement.
The repair and rejection levels in the Indian apparel manufacturing firms still remain quite high compared to best practice firms in Asia including India.
The majority of time and effort of the quality personnel of apparel manufacturers seem to be devoted to inspecting the already produced merchandise than preventing the defects from arising. This phenomenon can mainly be attributed to the non-understanding of the ‘Cost of Quality’ or in simple words non-understanding of the amount of money wasted due to poor quality.
In this project an attempt has been made to calculate the total cost of quality % for one of the units of Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd(Unit 7A), Bangalore.
OBJECTIVE:
Determining the cost of quality % of the total monthly production of the unit 7A.
Increasing profitability by lower rework and scrap.
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Determining cost of quality at various stages of manufacturing.
To find out the company‘s status in the quality maturity grid.
SCOPE:
To reduce quality related costs which can go as high up to 25% of the sales.
To identify the loss of production due to rework and rechecking in various departments
of the organization.
To increase profitability by controlling the cost of quality.
To improve the productivity by reducing the loss of production due to rework.
3.2. METHODOLOGY
The work methodology of the project was carried out by the following steps:
1. Selection of the styles.2. Collection of data.3. Time study analysis for checking.4. Compilation and Data analysis.
Detailed Methodology:
3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES :
As the aim of the project is to calculate Cost of Quality per month of the factory, we were given two styles from Walmart namely FG30D104 (Women’s dress), FL130204T (Women’s Shirt) which would be a representative of the whole. The above two styles have varied order quantities one smaller and one larger as the larger quantity have lesser defect ratio when compared to smaller quantity because the workers get habituated to the style and produce less defects.
Styles Details:
Style NO.1 : FG30D104
Order Quantity : 19676
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Dress with Smocking.
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H790
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Colors : Blue flower, Red Plaid, Pink Tril, Green.
Picture of Garment:
FRONT BACK
Style NO.2 : FL130204T
Order Quantity
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Spreading & Cutting 72581Sewing 42699Finishing 84020Washing 42699
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H025, H027
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
Picture of Garment:
FRONT BACK
3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA:
Collection of data is a major part in determining the Cost of Quality for the factory. We had collected the data in each department for the two styles whose production was already completed or at the finishing stage from the various records maintained in the departments.
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To proceed with this project the major cost parameters are prevention, appraisal, internal failure and external failure for which the following data is needed from various departments where ever applicable.
1. No. of rework/defects.2. Time taken for rework.3. Salaries of Quality people.4. Total quantity.5. Quantity Checked/Inspected.6. Testing and Inspection.
Fabric audit:
Salary of controller/month 6000Salary of checkers/month 3600
Style 1:
Order Quantity
Quality person
Quantity checked
UOM
20463.35 Q.C 3069.50323 GMTs
20463.35 Controller 3069.50323 GMTs
Style 2:
Order Quantity
Quality person
Quantity checked
UOM
279464 Q.C 41919.58499 Mtrs
279464 controller 41919.58499 Mtrs
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CUTTING AND SPREADING:
The data collected from this department are total quantity for this order which we got from daily and monthly production reports, quantity checked by checkers and Q.C people which we observed is checkers are checking 100% and Q.C are doing random audit, so we have followed up one day and noted how much time he spends on that day and divided it by whole number of pieces. We got salaries of the quality people by our mentor MR.Shivagurunathan, and finally the total re cut quantity we got it from re cut records for different styles.
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Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/monthSalary of Quality Checkers 3600/month
Style 1 Total Cut Quantity 19976 GMTs
Re cut Quantity 200 GMTs
Style 2 Total Cut Quantity 72581 GMTs
Re cut Quantity 726
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SEWING:
In this department various data required are number of defects which were sent for rework which we got from daily inline, end line, Q.C audit, and final audit reports which we got it from quality department, this we noted it down according to operation wise but not on type of defects as it would be easy to calculate rework time. Quantity checked by different quality people as we came to know inline, end line are checking 100% production, and quantity checked by Q.C we got it from report itself as it is mentioned how many they have checked. Quantity checked by auditor is according to AQL (for every 150 pieces they will check so according to AQL 8 garments in every 150 pieces).
Style 1 Style 2OPERATION NAME NO. OF
DEFECTSOPERATION NAME NO. OF
DEFECTSCollar top stitch 1179 sleeve big placket attach 2166
Bottom Hem 831 collar finish up to satin tape 1554
Front Placket finish 708 sleeve top stitch &gusset T/S 1450
Label ready and attach 692 label attach to back patch fabric 1394
Front Top and Bottom attach 564 collar peak ready 1244smocking 468 bottom hem 1210
Tie finishing 414 side seam attach with W/C label 1181Side O/L 410 B/H placket attach 1135
Side seam 400 sleeve big placket dia finish 885
Sleeve attach 350 cuff finish 810
Collar attach 328 collar edge stitch 650
Smocking tacking 314 collar attach 648collar Finishing 271 front pocket attach 592
Sleeve Hem 228 front bust dart stitch with side close 488Sleeve overlock 201 back pointed 412
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Type Quantity checked
UOM
Style 1
Shell fabric 19976 GMTContrast fabric 55814 PanelsInterlining 20160 Panels
Style 2
Shell fabric 72581 GMTContrast fabric 73468 GMTInterlining 74758 GMT
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Front top and bottom O/L 200 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 306
Gathering 138 sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262
Collar peak Ready 119 shoulder attach 210
shoulder attach 103 cuff attach 188
Front pocket 88 patch fabric attach to back yoke 117Back yoke 69 back yoke attach 110
Waist Belt loop ready 68 side seam O/L 97Washcare label attach 42 sleeve small placket attach 66
Back top and bottom overlock 38 collar ready trim and mark 54
Shoulder O/L 32 pleat making 48Neck peak Ready 24 back yoke top stitch 44
Front placket and body setting 23 side seam top stitch 37Back top and bottom attach 13 front pocket hem with trim 35
satin tape attach to NB 31 collar band attach to top collar 28
piping attach to cuff 19 cuff top stitch 19 back panel box pleat 10 sleeve tack 10
Total 8315 Total 17510
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Checking Point
Quantity checked
UOM
Style 1
Inline checking1 19892 GMTInline checking2 19892 GMTEnd line checking 19892 GMTQ.C 9145 GMTQuality Auditor 1060 GMT
Style 2
Inline checking1 42699 GMTInline checking2 42699 GMTEnd line checking 42699 GMTQ.C 19642 GMTQuality Auditor 2278 GMT
Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/month
Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/month
Style 1 Total Quantity 19892Total No. of defects 8315
Style 2 Total Quantity 42699Total No. of defects 17510
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
FINISHING:
The data which we needed from this department are also same as sewing, here we collected no. of defects which are sent for rework at various stages from initial checking to final packing of the garments. This information we got it from hourly reports and quality audit reports online and final carton audit reports.
The quantity checked by different quality people like quality checkers at first checking, presentation checking, final checking, measurement checking are done for 100% production and for final inspection is done according to AQL of total quantity.
Q.C people at inline quality checking will be doing random audits for all first, presentation, measurement, and final checking and will be doing 10% of production at each stage which will come up to 40% of total and at carton packing stage they will be checking 100% of production.
Final auditing which is done by quality in charge is again depending upon AQL 2.5, they will selection of cartons is root over no. of cartons and from that they will take according to AQL.
Style 1 Style 2OPERATION NAME
NO. OF DEFECTS
OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS
Front Placket finish 229 sleeve placket attach 599Collar finish 147 bottom hem 594Bottom Hem 128 Darning 434panel damage 94 sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431Smocking 52 side seam attach with W/C label 391Collar peak Ready 15 B/H placket attach 318Sleeve Attach 14 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 289side seam 12 label attach to back patch fabric 232Stains 11 sleeve big placket dia finish 220Collar final 9 cuff finish 215Sleeve Hem 9 cuff attach 210Side Attach 8 back pointed 194Belt tie ready 7 front pocket attach 191Button 6 collar band attach to top collar 149
sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146
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collar peak ready 116 collar finish up to satin tape 111 Stain 109 side seam top stitch 105 patch fabric attach to back yoke 101 shoulder attach 82 collar edge stitch 78 sleeve tack 70 pleat making 68 collar attach 68 collar ready trim and mark 56 cuff top stitch 54 front bust dart stitch with side
close48
back yoke attach 41 Button Attach 6 Total 741 Total 5726
WASHING:
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Style Checking Point Quantity checked
UOM
Style 1
First checking 19676 GMT
Presentation 19676 GMT
Measurement 19676 GMT
Final checking 19676 GMTFinal inspection 125 GMT
line quality control 7871 GMTQ.C at carton packing 19676 GMT
Internal Audit 125 GMT
Style 2
First checking 84020 GMT
Presentation 84020 GMT
Measurement 84020 GMTFinal checking 84020 GMT
Final inspection 250 GMTline quality control 33608 GMT
Q.C at carton packing 84020 GMT
Internal Audit 250 GMT
Salary of Quality In charge 14000/month
Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/month
Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/month
Style 1 Total Quantity 19672Total No. of defects 741
Style 2 Total Quantity 84020Total No. of defects 5726
SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
In this department we need quantity which we got from production reports and quantity checked by checkers is 10% of each batch and quality controller will be checking 10 garments from each batch, and an approximate number of pieces per batch is 500 gmts. Rework quantity we got it from rework reports.
Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/monthSalary of Quality Checkers 3600/month
Style 1
Total Quantity 42699Rewash Quantity NilQTY Checked by Q.C 330QTY Checked by Checkers 1659
Style 2
Total Quantity 42699Rewash Quantity 1000QTY Checked by Q.C 860QTY Checked by Checkers 4270
QUALITY DEPARTMENT:
In this department we need only work force and their salaries which we got if from quality department itself.
Department Quality personal’s
No. of persons Salary
QualityQuality Managers 1 40000Quality Executives 2 13000Quality In charge 1 14000
INSPECTION:
The inspection which is done for garments are also to be considered as this also comes under cost of conformance. Here we need the cost of machineries and no. of machines, machine details are provided by department people but cost of machineries are taken from internet as its confidential information.
Name of the Machine Cost of Machine No.of machines Total CostFabric Inspection machine 200000 4 800000Needle Detector 157500 1 157500
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TESTING:
The testing cost also comes under cost of conformance so from this department we got total number of tests performed for this style, average number of tests done per day, total staff and assistants and their salaries
Style 1 Style 2TYPE OF TEST NO.OF
SAMPLESTYPE OF TEST NO.OF
SAMPLESFABRIC TESTIING FABRIC TESTIING
Dimensional stability to washing
1 Dimensional stability to washing
1
Tearing Strength 1 Tearing Strength 1Tensile Strength 1 Tensile Strength 1Construction 1 Construction 1Fabric weight (GSM) 1 Fabric weight (GSM) 1
Total 5 Total 5GARMENT TESTING
NO. OF SAMPLES
GARMENT TESTING NO. OF SAMPLES
DIMENSINAL STABILITY TO WASHING %
24 DIMENSINAL STABILITY TO WASHING %
31
COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING
24 COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING
24
COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING
24 COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING
24
APPEARANCE AFTER WASH
24 APPEARANCE AFTER WASH
24
SEAM SLIPPAGE /STRENTH(LBS)
24 SEAM SLIPPAGE /STRENTH(LBS)
24
BUTTON ATTACHMENT STRENTH
44 BUTTON ATTACHMENT STRENTH
72
PH 24 TENSILE STRENGTH 24
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TEARING STRENGTH 24 PH 6
Total 188 Total 253
External Testing: Monthly average testing cost is equal to 12500.
SAMPLING:In this department also cost related to quality will be there as quality is main important
aspect in this department, from this department we collected type of sample and no. of samples made, quantity checked by quality people such as checkers which will be 100 % and by Q.C it will be 50% of total samples.
Salary of controller 10000 Salary of checkers 4300
Style 1
Total No. of Garments 10
Type of Sample Size set sample
Quantity checked by Q.C
5
Quantity checked by Checker
10
Style 2
Total No. of Garments 16
Type of Sample Size set sample
Quantity checked by Q.C
8
Quantity checked by Checker
16
STORES:In this department checking of trims will be done by checkers and Q.C, so we collected salaries
of them.
Salary of QC 6000/month
Salary of checkers 3600/month
3.2.3. TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING:
Checking time for each garment at various stages of manufacturing was taken using time study as this is one of the major contributions towards the Cost of Quality.The following are the time for general checking in various departments.
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1. FABRIC AUDIT:
Time study taken for fabric audit which are in roll form, which not only include checking time but also time taken to check shade variation in spectrophoto meter.
Style 1 Style 2Quality Person Checking time/gmt Quality Person Checking time/gmtQuality checker 1.6157 Quality checker 2.16383Q.C 0.321 Q.C 0.4299
2. SAMPLING: In sampling checking is done by controller and checker so we took time study for them and given below.
Style Quality person Checking Time in Min/GMT
Style 1 Quality controller 3.8Quality checker 3
Style 1 Quality controller 3.64Quality checker 2.83
3. STORES: As many of the trims which are received in stores are checked for quality also we have
taken time study in this department for various trims which are used in our styles only. Note: there is no checking for sewing threads and elastic threads.
Style 1 Style 2NAME OF THE TRIMS
QUANTITY UOM TOTAL TIME
NAME OF THE TRIMS
QUANTITY UOM TOTAL TIME
Main label 19976 PCS 3.5 Main label 43553 PCS 7.6
Wash care label 19976 PCS 4 Wash care label 43553 PCS 8.7
Elastic 10588 MTRS 3 Satin Tape 25261 MTRS 6.5
Elastic Thread 124848 MTRS 2.5 Button Pouch 85700 PCS 19.3
Buttons 1224 GRS 11.5 Buttons 6420 GRS 60.3
Button pouches 19976 PCS 4.5 Hangers 84020 PCS 152.02
Hand tag 19976 PCS 3.0 Hand tags 85700 PCS 12.9
Poly bag 416 PCS 2.5 Sizers 85700 PCS 96.1
Poly bag 11203 PCS 67.3
Carton Sticker 5601 PCS 1.0
Total time
34.5 Total time
431.7
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4. CUTTING AND SPREADING:In this department as it is difficult to take checking time per garment so we took so took
time study for one whole lay in which checkers and Q.C are spending and divided by total garments in that lay so that we can arrive with checking time per garment.
Style Type Quality Person
Checking time/UOM
UOM Recut time/gmt
Style 1
Shell fabricQuality Checker 0.075 GMT
1.62
Quality Controller 0.0525 GMT
Contrast fabricQuality Checker 0.00357 GMTQuality Controller 0.002499 GMT
InterliningQuality Checker 0.0024 GMTQuality Controller 0.00168 GMT
Style 2
Shell fabricQuality Checker 0.072 GMT
1.7
Quality Controller 0.0504 GMT
Contrast fabricQuality Checker 0.01428 GMTQuality Controller 0.009996 GMT
InterliningQuality Checker 0.0096 GMT
Quality Controller 0.00672 GMT
5. SEWING:In this department checking is done at different stage and at each stage time taken is
different even it is done by checkers only, so we took time study and arrived with these results.
Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking time/GMT
Style 1
Inline checking1 Quality Checker 0.52Inline checking2 Quality Checker 0.633End line checking Quality Checker 0.75Q.C Q.C 0.9Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5
Style 2
Inline checking1 Quality Checker 0.52Inline checking2 Quality Checker 0.633End line checking Quality Checker 0.75Q.C Q.C 0.9Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5
6. FINISHING:
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This department offers so many checking points which will be done by different people, we have taken many time study readings to get average timing and arrived
Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking time/GMT
Style 1
First checking Quality Checker 1.55Presentation Quality Checker 0.7Measurement Quality Checker 0.13Final checking Quality Checker 1.2Final inspection Quality Checker 0.75line quality control Q.C 4.5Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.392
Style 2
First checking Quality Checker 1.46Presentation Quality Checker 0.63
Measurement Quality Checker 0.11
Final checking Quality Checker 1.15
Final inspection Quality Checker 0.72line quality control Q.C 4.27Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.28
7. WASHING:
Style Quality Person Checking time/GMTStyle 1 Quality Checker 2.5
Q.C 3.2Style 2 Quality Checker 2.78
Q.C 3.57
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3.2.4. COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA:
FABRIC AUDIT:In this department only checking cost has to be calculated as there is no cost
involved even if there is rejections of the fabric. As we already know time taken by checkers and controllers just we need how much it will costs us.
Style 1:
Quantity checked by checkers = 3069.50323
Quantity checked by controller = 3069.50323
Time taken by checker = 1.6157 mins/garment
Time taken by controller = 0.321 mins/garment
Total time taken by checkers = 1.6157*3069.503 = 4959.396 mins
Total time taken by controllers = 0.321*3069.503 = 985.3105 mins
Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month
Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month
Cost by checkers = (3600*4959.396)/14400 = 1239.8
Cost by controllers = (6000*985.32)/14400 = 410.5
Cost of checking = 410.5+1239.8 = 1650.4 Rs
Style 2:
Quantity checked by checkers = 41919.58499
Quantity checked by controller = 41919.58499
Time taken by checker = 2.16383 mins/garment
Time taken by controller = 0.4299 mins/garment
Total time taken by checkers = 2.16383*41919.58499= 90706.9 mins
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Total time taken by controllers = 0.4299*41919.58499= 18021.2 mins
Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month
Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month
Cost by checkers = (3600*90706.9)/14400 = 22676.7
Cost by controllers = (6000*18021.2)/14400 = 7508.8
Cost of checking = 7508.8+22676.7= 30185.6 Rs
Total cost from department = 30185.6+1650.4 = 31836 Rs
STORES:
The method followed to Calculate Cost from Stores department is as follows,
The different trim quantities and time taken to check were known from the collected data and time study analysis. Hence we can calculate total time taken by checker’s and quality controller’s for these styles. As we know the salary of the two persons now we can get the cost incurred by checking of the trims shown below.
Considerations:
1. Only poly bags and Button pouches are checked by Q.C and rest of all the trims were checked by checkers.
2. Quantity checked according to AQL 1.5
Style 1:
The total time taken by checkers = 27.5/60
= 0.5 hrs
Time taken by Quality controller = 7/60
= 0.1hr
Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)
Cost for 0.5 hrs = (3600X0.5)/240 =6.9Rs
Similarly for Q.C cost for 0.1 hrs = (6000X0.1)/240 = 2.9 Rs
Total Cost incurred for Style1 = 6.9+2.9 = 9.8Rs
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Style 2:
The total time taken by checkers = 345.1/60
= 5.8 hrs
Time taken by Quality controller = 86.6/60
= 1.44hrs
Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)
Cost for 5.8 hrs = (3600X5.8)/240 = 86.3Rs
Similarly for Q.C cost for 1.44 hrs = (6000X1.44)/240 = 36.1Rs
Total Cost incurred for Style 2 = 86.3+36.1= 122.4Rs
SAMPLING:
Generally there will be various types of samples prepared in industry before the actual production starts but for these two styles only size set samples were done in unit 7A rest of the samples were done in Faridabad unit, so we are considering the cost incurred for the size set samples alone.
Style 1: Total No. of samples = 10
Quantity checked by Q.C = 5
Quantity checked by checkers = 10
Checking time by Checkers = 3 min/gmt
Time taken to check = 10X3 = 30 min = 0.5 hrs
Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (240 hrs)
Checkers cost for 0.5 hrs = (4300*0.5)/240 = 9Rs
Checking time by Q.C = 3.8 min/gmt
Time taken to check by Q.C = 5*3.8 = 19 min = 0.3166 hrs
Q.C cost for 0.3166 hrs = (10000*0.3166)/240 = 13.2Rs
Total cost for style 1 = 9 + 13.2 = 22.2Rs
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Style 2: Total No. of samples = 16
Quantity checked by Q.C = 8
Quantity checked by checkers = 16
Checking time by Checkers = 2.83 min/gmt
Time taken to check = 16*2.83 = 45.3 mins
Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (14400 mins)
Checkers cost for 45.3 min = (4300*45.3)/14400 = 13.5Rs
Checking time by Q.C = 3.64 min/gmt
Time taken to check by Q.C = 8*3.64 = 29.1mins
Q.C cost for 29.1 min = (10000*29.1)/14400 = 20.2Rs
Total cost for style 1 = 13.5 + 20.2 = 33.7 Rs
SPREADING AND CUTTING:
In this department there are 3 types of costs can be taken out as Cost of rework, Cost of checking & Cost due to loss of production. This cost due to loss of production is an indirect loss also called as opportunity cost. Here is how we calculated all this costs.
Considerations:
1. Timing doesn’t include idle time of checkers and Q.C people.( i.e. it is at average efficiency)
Style 1:
Cost of Rework:
To calculate this cost we need rework quantity and time taken to do each unit of rework by which we can arrive with total rework time, and as we know per minute factory cost we can arrive at cost of rework.
Total Rework quantity = 200 gmts
Recut time per gmt = 1.62 mins
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Total time = 1.62*200 = 324 min
Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs
Cost of rework = 2.2*324 = 712.8 Rs
Cost of checking:
In this department checking is done at various stages by various quality people depending on style and buyer so we need to see how much time and cost is spent on checking in this department and done as below.
Shell fabric:
Total Quantity = 19976
Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.075
Total checkers checking time = 0.075*19976 = 1498.2 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 1498.2 min = 374.6 Rs
Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0525
Total Q.C checking time = 0.0525*19976 = 1048.74
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins= (1048.2*6000)/14400 = 437Rs
Contrast fabric:
Total Quantity = 55814 Panels
Checkers checking time/panel = 0.00357
Total checkers checking time = 0.00357*55814 = 200 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 200 min = 50Rs
Q.C checking time /panel = 0.002499
Total Q.C checking time = 0.002499*55814 = 139.479186
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (139.479186*6000)/14400 = 58.1Rs
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Interlining:
Total Quantity = 20160 Panels
Checkers checking time/panel = 0.0024 min
Total checkers checking time = 0.0024*20160 = 48.384 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 48.384 min = 12.1Rs
Q.C checking time /panel = 0.00168
Total Q.C checking time = 0.00168*55814 = 33.8688
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (33.8688*6000)/14400 = 14.1Rs
Total checkers cost for this style = 374.6+50+12.1 = 436.6 Rs
Total Q.C cost for this style = 437+58.1+14.1 = 509.2Rs
Total cost of checking = 436.6 + 509.2= 945.8Rs
Cost due to loss of production:
The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.
Rework time = 324 mins
Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200
Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640
Loss of production due to rework = (324*6200)/44640 = 45 gmts
Cost due to loss of production = 266.4 Rs
Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 945.8+712.8+266.4 = 1925.05
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Style 2:
Cost of rework:
Total Rework quantity = 726gmts
Recut time per gmt = 1.7mins
Total time = 1.7*726 = 1234.2 min
Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs
Cost of rework = 2.2*1234.2 = 2715.14Rs
Cost of checking:
Shell fabric:
Total Quantity = 72581
Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.072
Total checkers checking time = 0.072*72581 = 5225.83 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 5225.83min = 1306.5 Rs
Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0504
Total Q.C checking time = 0.0504*72581 = 3658.08
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (3658.08*6000)/14400 = 1524.2 Rs
Contrast fabric:
Total Quantity = 73468
Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.01428
Total checkers checking time = 0.01428*73468 = 1049.12 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 1049.12 min = 262.3Rs
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Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.009996
Total Q.C checking time = 0.009996*73468 = 734.39 min
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (734.39*6000)/14400 = 306Rs
Interlining:
Total Quantity = 74758
Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.0096 min
Total checkers checking time = 0.0096*74758 = 717.68 min
Salary of quality checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 717.68 min = 179.4Rs
Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.00672
Total Q.C checking time = 0.00672*55814 = 502.37 mins
Salary of quality controller = 6000
Q.C cost for 502.37 mins = (502.37*6000)/14400 = 209.3Rs
Total checkers cost for this style = 1306.5+262.3+179.4=1748.2Rs
Total Q.C cost for this style = 1524.2+306+209.3= 2782.6 Rs
Total cost of checking = 1748.2+2782.6= 3787.7Rs
Cost due to loss of production:
The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.
Rework time = 726mins
Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200
Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640
Loss of production due to rework = (726*6200)/44640 = 171.41667gmts
Cost of spreading & cutting one garment = 6.52rs
Cost due to loss of production = 1117.6Rs
Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 2715.14+3787.7+1117.6=
7620.55Rs.
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SEWING DEPARTMENT:
To calculate cost of quality this sewing department plays a vital role because conversion from fabric to garment is done mainly here in this department and lot of mistakes are bound to happen which in turn result in lot of rework and time for it.
As in spreading and cutting in this department also we can take 3 costs, cost of rework, cost of checking,& cost due to loss of production.
In this department the defects may be in several operations and there is a need to know operation wise defects and percentage of total, so for the same we have made pareto chart for these styles which will help in future corrective actions.
Style 1:
OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTSPERCENTAGE OF TOTAL
Collar top stitch 1179 14.2
Bottom Hem 831 10.0
Front Placket finish 708 8.5
Label ready and attach 692 8.3
Front Top and Bottom attach 564 6.8
smocking 468 5.6
Tie finishing 414 5.0
Side O/L 410 4.9
Side seam 400 4.8
Sleeve attach 350 4.2
Collar attach 328 3.9
Smocking tacking 314 3.8
collar Finishing 271 3.3
Sleeve Hem 228 2.7
Sleeve overlock 201 2.4
Front top and bottom O/L 200 2.4
Gathering 138 1.7
Collar peak Ready 119 1.4
shoulder attach 103 1.2
Front pocket 88 1.1
Back yoke 69 0.8
Waist Belt loop ready 68 0.8
Washcare label attach 42 0.5
Back top and bottom overlock 38 0.5
Shoulder O/L 32 0.4
Neck peak Ready 24 0.3
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Front placket and body setting 23 0.3
Back top and bottom attach 13 0.2
Total 8315 100
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Style 2:
OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL
sleeve big placket attach 2166 12.4collar finish up to satin tape 1554 8.9sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 1450 8.3label attach to back patch fabric 1394 8.0collar peak ready 1244 7.1bottom hem 1210 6.9side seam attach with W/C label 1181 6.7B/H placket attach 1135 6.5sleeve big placket dia finish 885 5.1cuff finish 810 4.6collar edge stitch 650 3.7collar attach 648 3.7front pocket attach 592 3.4front bust dart stitch with side close 488 2.8back pointed 412 2.4gusset & bottom side edge stitch 306 1.7sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262 1.5shoulder attach 210 1.2cuff attach 188 1.1patch fabric attach to back yoke 117 0.7back yoke attach 110 0.6side seam O/L 97 0.6sleeve small placket attach 66 0.4collar ready trim and mark 54 0.3pleat making 48 0.3back yoke top stitch 44 0.3side seam top stitch 37 0.2front pocket hem with trim 35 0.2satin tape attach to NB 31 0.2collar band attach to top collar 28 0.2piping attach to cuff 19 0.1cuff top stitch 19 0.1back panel box pleat 10 0.1sleeve tack 10 0.1
Total 17510 100.0
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Considerations:
1. Checking time taken is not including idle time.2. All the Inline checking and end line checking are done by checkers and audits in line are done by
Q.C and final audit according to AQL is done by Quality auditors.
Style 1:
Cost of rework:
No. defects = 8315
Total time taken to do rework = 19953.99 mins
Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs
Total cost of rework = 19953.99*2.2 = 43898.778
Cost of checking:
The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various stages and added it at the end.
Inline checking 1:
Total quantity checked =19892
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.52
Total checking time = 10343.8
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*10343.8)/14400 = 2586Rs
Inline checking 2:
Total quantity checked =19892
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.633
Total checking time = 12591.6
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*12591.6)/14400 = 3147.9 Rs
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End line checking:
Total quantity checked =19892
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.75
Total checking time = 0.75*19892 = 14919 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at endine checking = (3600*14919)/14400 = 3729.8Rs
Random checking (Auditing):
Total quantity checked =9145
Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.9
Total checking time = 0.9*9145 = 8230.5 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)
Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*8230.5)/14400 = 3429.4Rs
Final Auditing:
Total quantity checked =1060
Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5
Total checking time = 1.5*1060 = 1590 min
Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)
Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*1590)/14400 = 828.1Rs
Total cost by checkers = 2586+3147.9+3729.8 = 9463.6
Total cost by Q.C = 3429.4
Total cost by Auditor = 828.1
Total cost of checking in sewing department = 9463.6+3429.4+828.1 = 13721.1
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Style 2 :
Cost of rework:
No. defects = 17510
Total time taken to do rework = 36524.892 mins
Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs
Total cost of rework = 36524.892*2.2 = 80354.7624
Cost of checking:
The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various stages and added it at the end.
Inline checking 1:
Total quantity checked =42699
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.47
Total checking time = 0.47*42699 = 20068.53 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*20068.53)/14400 = 5017.1Rs
Inline checking 2:
Total quantity checked =42699
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.58
Total checking time = 0.58*42699 = 24765.42 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*24765.42)/14400 = 6191.4Rs
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End line checking:
Total quantity checked =42699
Checker checking time/gmt = 0.71
Total checking time = 0.71*42699 = 30316.29 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)
Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*30316.29)/14400 = 7579.1Rs
Random checking (Auditing):
Total quantity checked =19642
Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.84
Total checking time = 0.84*19642 = 16499.28min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)
Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*16499.28)/14400 = 6874.7Rs
Final Auditing:
Total quantity checked =2278
Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5
Total checking time = 1.5*2278 =3417 min
Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)
Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*3417)/14400 = 1779.7Rs
Total cost by checkers = 5017.1+6191.4+7579.1= 18787.6Rs
Total cost by Q.C = 6874.7
Total cost by Auditor = 1779.7
Total cost of checking in sewing department = 18787.6+6874.7+1779.7= 27441.9
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FINISHING:
From this department also we can get all the 3 types of costs, and as this department is mainly involved with quality so lot of checking happens which will contribute in total cost. So before going to calculate cost we need to know different defects and there percentage of total as shown below.
Style 1:
OPERATION NAMENO. OF
DEFECTSPERCENTAGE OF TOTAL
Front Placket finish 229 30.9
Collar finish 147 19.8
Bottom Hem 128 17.3
panel damage 94 12.7
Smocking 52 7.0
Collar peak Ready 15 2.0
Sleeve Attach 14 1.9
side seam 12 1.6
Stains 11 1.5
Collar final 9 1.2
Sleeve Hem 9 1.2
Side Attach 8 1.1Belt tie ready 7 0.9
Button 6 0.8
Total 741 100
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Style 2:
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OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS
PERCENTAGE
sleeve placket attach 599 10.5bottom hem 594 10.4Darning 434 7.6sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431 7.5side seam attach with W/C label 391 6.8B/H placket attach 318 5.6gusset & bottom side edge stitch 289 5.0label attach to back patch fabric 232 4.1sleeve big placket dia finish 220 3.8cuff finish 215 3.8cuff attach 210 3.7back pointed 194 3.4front pocket attach 191 3.3collar band attach to top collar 149 2.6sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146 2.5collar peak ready 116 2.0collar finish up to satin tape 111 1.9Stain 109 1.9side seam top stitch 105 1.8patch fabric attach to back yoke 101 1.8shoulder attach 82 1.4collar edge stitch 78 1.4sleeve tack 70 1.2pleat making 68 1.2collar attach 68 1.2collar ready trim and mark 56 1.0cuff top stitch 54 0.9front bust dart stitch with side close 48 0.8back yoke attach 41 0.7Button Attach 6 0.1
Total 5726 100
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Considerations:
1. All first checking, Presentation checking, Measurement checking, Final checking, Final inspection are done by checkers and line quality audit, quality at carton packing checking done by Q.C and internal audit is done by quality in charge.
2. Factory cost is taken as 2.2 Rs/min.
3. Total people in finishing floor for production = 170
4. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 1 = 12.46 Rs
5. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 2 = 12.35Rs
Style 1:
Cost of rework:
Total no. of defects = 741
Total rework time = 1013.03 mins
Factory cost/min = 2.2
Total cost of rework = 1013.03*2.2 = 2228.666
COST OF CHECKING: First checking:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 1.55 min
Total time = 1.55*19676 = 30497.8 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 30497.8 min = (30497.8*3600)/14400 = 7624.5Rs
Presentation checking:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 0.7 min
Total time = 0.7*19676 = 13773.2 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 13773.2min = (13773.2*3600)/14400 =3443.3Rs
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Measurement checking:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 0.13 min
Total time = 0.13*19676 = 2557.88 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 2557.88 min = (2557.88*3600)/14400 = 639.5 Rs
Final checking:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 1.2 min
Total time = 1.2*19676 = 23611.2min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 23611.2min = (23611.2*3600)/14400 = 5902.8Rs
Final inspection:
Total quantity checked = 125
Checking time/gmt = 0.75 min
Total time =0.75*125 = 93.75 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 93.75 min = (93.75*3600)/14400 = 23.4Rs
Line quality audit:
Total quantity checked = 7871
Checking time/gmt = 4.5 min
Total time =4.5*7871 = 35419.5 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Checkers cost for 35419.5min = (35419.5*6000)/14400 = 14758.1Rs
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Quality at carton packing:
Total quantity checked = 19676
Checking time/gmt = 0.3 min
Total time =0.3*19676 = 5902.8 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Checkers cost for 5902.8 min = (5902.8*6000)/14400 = 2459.5Rs
Internal audit:
Total quantity checked = 125
Checking time/gmt = 1.392 min
Total time =1.392*125 = 174 min
Salary of Incharge= 14000/month
Incharge cost for 174 min = (174*14000)/14400 = 169.2Rs
Cost of checking by checkers = 7624.5+3443.3+639.5+5902.8+23.4 = 17633.5
Cost of checking by Q.C = 29762.2+4960.0 = 17217.6Rs
Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 169.2Rs
Total cost of checking from finishing department = 35020.2
Cost due to loss of production:
Rework time = 1013.03 min
Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts
Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min
Loss of production due to rework = (6349*1013.03)/81600 = 78.8202 gmts
Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 78.8202*12.46 = 982.1 Rs
Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 982.1+2228.7+69437.6 = 72648.4 Rs
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Style 2:
Cost of rework:
Total no. of defects = 5726
Total rework time = 6437.3965 mins
Factory cost/min = 2.2
Total cost of rework = 6437.3965*2.2 = 14162.27
Cost of checking:
First checking:
Total quantity checked = 84020
Checking time/gmt = 1.46 min
Total time = 1.46*84020 = 122669.2 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 122669.2 min = (122669.2*3600)/14400 = 30667.3Rs
Presentation checking:
Total quantity checked = 84020
Checking time/gmt = 0.63 min
Total time = 0.63*84020 = 52932.6 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 52932.6 min = (52932.6*3600)/14400 = 13233.15Rs
Measurement checking:
Total quantity checked = 84020
Checking time/gmt = 0.11 min
Total time = 0.11*84020 = 9242.2 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 9242.2 min = (9242.2*3600)/14400 = 2310.55Rs
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Final checking:
Total quantity checked = 84020
Checking time/gmt = 1.15 min
Total time = 1.15*84020 =96623 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 96623 min = (96623*3600)/14400 = 24155.75Rs
Final inspection:
Total quantity checked = 250
Checking time/gmt = 0.72 min
Total time =0.72*250 = 180 min
Salary of checkers = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 180 min = (180*3600)/14400 = 45Rs
Line quality audit:
Total quantity checked = 33608
Checking time/gmt = 4.27 min
Total time =4.27*33608 = 143506.16 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Q.C cost for 143506.16 min = (143506.16*6000)/14400 = 59794.23333Rs
Quality at carton packing:
Total quantity checked = 84020
Checking time/gmt = 0.3 min
Total time =0.3*84020 = 25206 min
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Q.C cost for 25206 min = (25206*6000)/14400 = 10502.5Rs
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Internal audit:
Total quantity checked = 250
Checking time/gmt = 1.28 min
Total time =1.28*250 = 320 min
Salary of incharge = 14000/month
Incharge cost for 320 min = (320*14000)/14400 = 311.11111Rs
Cost of checking by checkers = 30667.3+13233.15+2310.55+24155.75+45 =70411.75Rs
Cost of checking by Q.C = 120585.0372+21180.04167 = 70296.73333Rs
Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 311.11111Rs
Total cost of checking from finishing department = 141019.5944
Cost due to loss of production:
Rework time = 6437.3965 min
Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts
Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min
Loss of production due to rework = (6349*6437.3965)/81600 = 500.87047 gmts
Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 500.88*12.35 = 6185.7503Rs
Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 141019.5944+6185.76+14162.28
= 161367.6Rs
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WASHING:
This department is also included as there will be quality checking, rewash, and defects due to washing. In this department also we can get all the 3 type of costs which will be depicted as below.
Style 1:
Cost due to rewash:
As there is no rewash for this style there will be no cost.
Cost for checking:Total Quantity checked by checkers = 1659
Checking time/gmt = 2.5
Total checking time = 2.5*1659 = 4147.5 mins
Salary of checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 1056 mins = (4147.5*3600)/14400 = 1036.875Rs
Total Quantity checked by Q.C = 330
Checking time/gmt = 3.2
Total checking time = 3.2*330 = 1056mins
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Q.C cost for 1056 mins = (1056*6000)/14400 = 440Rs
Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 1036.875+440 = 1476.875 Rs
Cost due to loss of production:
As there is no rewash there will be no loss of production.
Total cost from washing department for style 1 = 1476.875
Style 2:
Cost of rewash:
Total rewash quantity = 1000 gmts
Cost incurred to company to wash one garment = 1.48 Rs
Total cost to rewash 1000 gmts = 1.48*1000 = 1480 Rs
Cost of checking:
Total Quantity checked by checkers = 4270
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Checking time/gmt = 2.78
Total checking time = 2.78*4270 = 11870.6 mins
Salary of checker = 3600/month
Checkers cost for 11870.6 mins = (11870.6*3600)/14400 = 2967.65Rs
Total Quantity checked by Q.C= 860
Checking time/gmt = 3.57
Total checking time = 3.57*860 = 3070.2 mins
Salary of Q.C = 6000/month
Q.C cost for 3070.2 mins = (3070.2*6000)/14400 = 1279.25Rs
Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 2967.65+1279.25 = 4246.9Rs
Cost due to loss of production:
Total Rewash quantity = 1000 gmts
Time taken to rewash = 180 mins
Avg. production/3shifts/150 people = 95000
Minutes available = 24*60*150 = 216000
Loss of production for 180 mins = (180*95000)/216000 = 79
Cost due to loss of production = 79*1.48 = 117
Total cost from washing department for this style = 4246.9+1480+117 = 5844.07
TESTING:
As testing of fabric and garments are done in house in this unit the cost related to that also need to be taken as it will also will come under conformance of quality, so from this department cost taken are depreciation cost of testing machinery, cost of fabric and garments wasted to test, cost of testing.
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Depreciation cost:
Consideration:
1. Life of machine taken as 10 years.2. Depreciation percentage = 10%3. Average no. of styles per month = 204. Average tests done per month = 114
Cost of all machinery = 237200
Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667
Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month
Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day
Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:
Total garments consumed = 68 gmts
Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs
= 5*0.9346 = 4.673 gmts
Total garments consumed = 68+4.673 = 72.673
Cost incurred to company for one garment = 75.3 Rs
Cost due to loss of garments = 75.3*72.673 = 5472.2769
Cost for testing:
Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month
Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day
Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day
Average no. of tests per day = 114
Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37
No. of tests done for our style = 193
Total cost for 193 tests = 193*20.37 = 3931.45 Rs
Total cost from testing department = 3931.45+5472.2769 = 9403.72
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Style 2:
Cost due to depreciation:
Cost of all machinery = 237200
Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667
Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month
Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day
Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:
Total garments consumed = 79 gmts
Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs
= 5*0.69783 = 3.48915 gmts
Total garments consumed = 79+3.48915= 82.589 gmts
Cost incurred to company for one garment = 80.43 Rs
Cost due to loss of garments = 80.43*82.589 = 6634.61
Cost for testing:
Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month
Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day
Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day
Average no. of tests per day = 114
Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37
No. of tests done for our style = 258
Total cost for 258 tests = 258*20.37 = 5255.51 Rs
Total cost from testing department =5255.51+6634.61= 11890.1Rs
Inspection:
In the process of manufacturing the goods are subjected to inspection at two different stages namely at fabric audit and other is needle detector, so for this reason we considered depreciation of this two machines.
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Style 1: Cost of all machineries = 957500
Life of machinery = 10 yrs
No. of styles per month = 20
Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs
Style 2: Cost of all machineries = 957500
Life of machinery = 10 yrs
No. of styles per month = 20
Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs
3.3. CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE :
The main conversion from fabric to garment is done in spreading and cutting, sewing, finishing, washing, and so cost incurred per garment in this department only taken and considered total cost of manufacturing. So we added all the departments COQ except above and divided by total production so that we will get share of all departments cost per each garment, we added this in each department according to their production so that we got total cost of quality.
Cost of quality from stores = 9.79+122.37 = 132.16 Rs
Cost of quality from Sampling = 22.16+33.7 = 55.86 Rs
Cost of quality from fabric audit = 1650.4+30185.55 = 31835.95
Cost of quality from Testing = 9403.73+30185.55 = 39589.27
Cost of quality from inspection equipment’s = 148.958+148.958 = 297.92
Cost of quality from Quality Department = 9867.26+33060.0447 = 42927.3 Rs
Scrap cost for both styles = 21912.3+22842.12 = 44754.42
Total cost from all the above departments = 159592.88
Total production from style 1 = 19916+19892+19676+16583 = 76067
Total production from style 2 = 72581+42699+84020+42699 = 241999
Total production for both styles = 76067+241999 = 318066
Cost of quality share from above departments = 159592.88/318066 = 0.501760264Rs
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Spreading and cutting:
Total quantity = 19916+72581 = 92497
Total cost for two styles = (19916*5.92) + (72581*6.52) = 591130.84
COQ for this department = 1925.049328+7620.552247 = 9545.599
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*92557 = 46441.425
COQ for this department = 9545.599+46441.425 = 55987.024
COQ per garment = 55987.024/92497 = 0.605285Rs
COQ % in this department = (9545.599/591130.84)*100 = 1.615 %
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only cutting not share from the other departments)
Sewing:
Total quantity = 42699+19892 = 62591
Total cost for two styles = (19892*55.44) + (42699*60.08) = 3668168.4 Rs
COQ for this department for both styles = 78027.361+146787.746 = 224815.107 Rs
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*62591 = 31405.67668 Rs
COQ for this department = 224815.107+31405.67668 = 256220.7837
COQ per garment = 256220.7837/62591 = 4.093572298
COQ % in this department = (224815.107/3668168.4)*100 = 6.13%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only sewing not share from the other departments)
Finishing:
Total quantity = 19676+84020 = 103696
Total cost for two styles = (19676*12.46) + (84020*12.35) = 1282810 Rs
COQ for this department for both styles = 38231.01473+161367.6171 = 199598.6 Rs
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*103696 = 52030.53234 Rs
COQ for this department = 199598.6+52030.53234 = 251629.1323
COQ per garment = 251629.1323/103696 = 2.426604
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COQ % in this department = (199598.6/1282810)*100 = 15.56%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only finishing not share from the other departments)
Washing:
Total quantity = 16583+42699 = 59282
Total cost for two styles = (16583*1.48) + (42699*1.48) = 87737.36 Rs
COQ for this department for both styles = 1476.875+5726.9 = 7203.775 Rs
Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*59282 = 29745.35 Rs
COQ for this department = 7203.775+29745.35 = 36949.125
COQ per garment = 36949.125/59282 = 0.623277302
COQ % in this department = (7203.775/87737.36)*100 = 8.22%
(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only washing not share from the other departments)
Total COQ % for two styles:
Total manufacturing cost for two styles = 1490421+4139426 = 5629847
Total COQ for both styles = 162674.9+419767.8 = 582442.7
COQ% for both styles = (582442.7/5629847)*100 = 10.346%
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CHAPTER 4
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1. FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
COQ PER MONTH:
To calculate cost of quality per month from these two styles considerations are
1. As our two styles are having different order quantity and are different products as ladies dress and ladies casual shirt we have covered some variations which will be there in one month.
2. As our styles has got only internal testing and no embroidery and some other styles will be sent for the same, so we considered average external testing cost and average embroidery waste per month also to get closer figure of COQ per month.
Spreading and cutting:
Average monthly production in spreading and cutting = 161200
Average cost of spreading and cutting per garment = 6.22 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 161200*6.22 = 1002664 Rs
COQ for 92497 garments = 9545.599 Rs
COQ for 161200 garments = (161200*9545.599)/92497 = 16635.68Rs
COQ per garment = (16635.68/161200) = 0.103199
COQ% per month = (16624.89665/1002664)*100 = 1.66%
Sewing:
Average monthly production in sewing = 156000
Average cost of sewing per garment = 57.76 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 156000*57.76 = 9010560 Rs
COQ for 62591 garments = 224815.107 Rs
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COQ for 156000 garments = (156000*224815.107)/ 62591 = 560322.6773 Rs
COQ per garment = (560322.6773/156000) = 3.591812034 Rs
COQ% per month = (560322.6773/9010560)*100 = 6.22%
Finishing:
Average monthly production in finishing = 165074
Average cost of finishing per garment = 12.405 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 165074*12.405 = 2047742.97 Rs
COQ for 103696 garments = 199598.6 Rs
COQ for 165074 garments = (165074*199598.6)/ 103696 = 317741.6612 Rs
COQ per garment = (317741.6612/165074) = 1.924843774 Rs
COQ% per month = (317741.6612/2047742.97)*100 = 15.51668%
Washing:
Average monthly production in washing = 2470000
Average cost of washing per garment = 1.48 Rs
Total cost incurred for this department per month = 2470000*1.48= 3655600 Rs
COQ for 59282 garments = 7203.775 Rs
COQ for 2470000 garments = (2470000*7203.775)/ 59282 = 300147.2 Rs
COQ per garment = (300147.2/2470000) = 0.121517 Rs
COQ% per month = (300147.2/3655600)*100 = 8.210614%
Cost from other departments:
Average production in cutting, sewing, finishing, washing = 165074+156000+161200
= 482274gmts/month
Total production for both styles in all four departments = 318066gmts
Cost for 318066 gmts at all four departments = 141279.6 Rs
Cost for 482274 gmts = (482274*141279.6)/318066 = 214218.0485 Rs/month
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TOTAL COQ:
COQ of Spreading and cutting = 16624.9
COQ of sewing = 560322.68
COQ of finishing = 317741.6612
COQ of washing = 300147.2
COQ of all other departments = 214218.0485
Total Cost of quality per month = 16624.9+560322.68+317741.6612+300147.2+214218.0485
= 1409054.49 Rs
Total cost of company per month = 12500000 Rs
COQ% of month = (1409054.49/12500000)*100 = 11.27243592
ACCORDING TO THE ABOVE CALCULATION IT SHOWS THAT THE COQ% PER MONTH OF THE FACTORY STANDS IN THE THIRD STAGE OF QUALITY MATURITY GRID WHICH IS ENLIGHTMENT STAGE.
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4.2. Recommendations:
The stitching and various production operators should also be explained the importance
of ‘right first time’ quality and how they will be able to improve their earning by
eliminating defects
Problem solving techniques must be followed to understand the root causes of various
defects found in the garments.
Suggestions must be invited from the employees on how to protect the garments from
defects during various processes of manufacture.
Quality awareness program must be organized and the employee should be motivated to
produce a defect free product.
Zero defect day can be followed once or twice a month when the workers are insisted on
the quality of the product rather than production target.
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4.3.CONCLUSION
The overall business strategy is to increase profit in a particular product, the company’s focus should be on reducing quality costs by reducing errors, eliminating non-value-added activities and waste.
Quality generally is meeting customer requirements, error free, at the lowest possible costs. A byproduct of quality improvement is the improvement in productivity. By eliminating errors, non-value-added and waste, resource capacity becomes available.
Increased quality also reduces the production cycle time. It also decreases the use of machinery and equipment due to less rework. This result in a reduction is asset investment. Less material are now required due to less scrap, rework and waste.
Improving the quality and productivity increases the profitability of the organization. Margins are increased due to these lower costs. Increased sales results due to higher conformance to quality, better on time delivery and opportunity to reduce selling price.
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