replacing a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 hyundai santa fe...4/5/2018 how i replaced a noisy rear...

4/5/2018 How I Replaced A Noisy Rear Wheel Bearing On A 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 4 Wheel Drive SUV, Without Using A Shop Press

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Driveline Repairs:

Replacing A Rear WheelBearing On A 2002 HyundaiSanta FeMay Also Apply To Kia And Other All-Wheel-Drive Asian Imports

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In This Article:The rear brake disc and parking brake areremoved. The bearing housing is separatedfrom the suspension, then the wheel hub ispressed out of the center of the bearing.The bearing is pressed out of the housingwith a puller tool.

Related Articles:Index Of All ArticlesReplacing Front Wheel Bearing - GM 4x4Replacing Front Brake Pads

Skill Level: 4 (Advanced) Time Taken: About 6 HoursAuthor: Bruce W. Maki, Editor Project Date: January 2013

Recently, I drove my Mom's 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe on a 5-hour road trip. When I set out,I could hear a high-pitch "groaning" noise from the rear, and it sounded like tire noise tome. Towards the end of the trip, the noise got louder, and it seemed to be coming fromthe driver's side of the rear end. Since the car had over 150,000 miles on it, I suspected afailed wheel bearing was the cause.

So I paid attention to how the noise might change as I went around curves. It seemed tobe worse (louder) when I made a right-hand turn, which puts more weight on the leftside (driver's side) of the car. To verify my suspicions, when I made a left-hand turn, thenoise almost went away, because the left wheel is on the inside of the curve and theweight on the inside wheels is reduced when turning at higher speeds.

To make matters worse, every once in a while I heard this gawd-awful screeching orsquawking noise that only lasted a few seconds at a time. Luckily I made it home withoutincident. The next day I moved the car into my garage, and the left rear wheel made asound like a cement block being dragged on a cobblestone street.

Mom!!! I broke your car!

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So I fixed it. This repair was challenging because I don't have a hydraulic shop press thatis normally used to press out bearings. But there are places that will do that for you, likeautomotive machine shops.

I bought a new bearing at Advanced Auto Parts for $25. Very reasonable, or so I thought.

NOTE: If you are working on a Hyundai, be sure to read my comments aboutHyundai Technical Info at the end of this page.

[Also see Tools and Materials]

Fixing A Bad Wheel Bearing:Note that before taking these pictures I did several things.

I jacked up the left side (the side with the bad wheel bearing) and removed the wheel.I used a 1-1/4” socket and an impact wrench to remove the big axle nut on the end of

the axle. I kept the right-hand rear tire on the ground while doing this, to hold theaxle from turning. The axle nut actually requires a 32mm socket, which I did not have,but my 1-1/4” socket (being a 6-point) fit very well.

I removed the brake caliper, which simply required a 14mm wrench to remove two boltson the caliper sliding pins. I set the caliper on the trailing arm of the suspension to keep itout of the way.

I removed the brake bracket (which the caliper attaches to).

I had a HELLUVA time removing the two bolts for this bracket. My impact wrench couldnot reach the bolts from behind, because there are suspension parts in the way. I triedusing wobble extensions, but they absorbed too much of the impact forces. I tried using a14mm box end wrench and beating the $hit out of it with a small sledge hammer, butthere wasn’t enough room to swing it. I don’t own a decent oxy-acetylene torch, so I useda MAPP/propane torch to heat up the area. Then I tried just using a 14mm socket on a big½” drive breaker bar. I laid on the floor so I could push or pull better. Well... I broke thesocket. (It was a 12 point. I replaced it with a 6 point.) So I bought a set of short impactsockets from Sears (all these years I’ve gotten by with only deep well impact sockets),hoping that would give me better access from behind with the impact wrench. Nope. But Iwas able to use that big beefy 14mm short impact socket on my breaker bar to removethe stuck bolt. Plus, I had soaked the bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple ofdays. THAT might have been the difference.

Once the bracket was removed, I was able to remove the brake rotor. These rotors havetwo small flat-head screws that hold them to the wheel hub. I gently removed these witha Phillips bit socket that I placed on my impact wrench.



Starting Point:

This is the left rear axle area after Iremoved the brake caliper, the brakebracket, and the brake rotor. Note theminiature drum brake apparatus usedfor the parking brake. This is entirelycable operated, and is a real pain-in-the-@ss to remove.

A closer view of the top area of theparking brake, showing the two returnsprings (arrows) where they hook ontothe anchor pin.

The bottom of the parking brakeassembly.

Like normal drum brakes, there is a coilspring that holds the brake shoestogether (lower arrow), and anadjuster mechanism that keeps themapart (upper arrow). I’m not sure if it’seven possible to turn that adjuster whenthe car is fully assembled... there wouldneed to be a hole in the backing plateand I didn’t notice such a thing.



After I removed these springs, I removed the hold-down pins at the sides, using either apair of needle-nose pliers, or the usual hold-down removal tool (which barely fit).Replacing the hold-down springs and cups was a b-i-t-c-h... certainly the most difficulthold-downs I’ve ever installed.

I removed the return springs at the top,but not by using the normal brake tool.These drum brakes are so small that theimportant parts are partially blocked bythe wheel hub.

This Didn't Work:

With the parking brake shoes removed,I removed the 4 bolts that hold thewheel hub (and brake backing plate) tothe rear suspension.

While I’m showing a box end wrenchhere (arrow), this method didn't workfor me. If the car was newer and notbadly rusted, a wrench might work.

This definitely worked: The Hyundaiengineers were considerate enough toplace access holes in the wheel hub soyou can fit a 14mm deep socket throughthe hub and reach the bolts. However,my impact socket was too big to fitthrough the access holes, so I had to



use something less robust. In my case, Iused a ⅜” drive 14mm non-impact deepsocket, with an adapter to fit onto myimpact wrench. (I didn’t even try toremove these bolts with just a ratchet...it might’ve worked.)

Of course, the wheel hub must becapable of turning to use this method.

The hub didn’t exactly fall off when Iremoved those 4 bolts. I used an impacthammer to push on the back of the hub,and it came right off. A hammer andpunch might work just as well.

The wheel hub after being removedfrom the rear suspension.

Note that it is still attached by theparking brake cable. I removed theparking brake cable from the lever byusing a pair of pliers and a tack puller,which is like a forked prybar.



Separating The Wheel Hub From The Bearing:The best way to push a hub from the center of a bearing is to use a hydraulic press (likethis Grizzly H2870 6 Ton Hydraulic Press from Amazon) and the appropriate blocks ofmetal so you can push on the right areas. Since I don’t have a shop press, and I wasdoing this repair on a Sunday, I decided to try using what tools I had.

The hub and backing plate after Idisconnected the parking brake cable.

Note how one of the hold-down pins isstill in the backing plate (arrow). Icouldn’t remove that pin because itwould hit those mounting ears for thebrake bracket.

I turned the hub over and used theimpact hammer to push on the thickpart of the backing plate. It separatedwithout a fight. Note that the backingplate is captured between the wheelhub

At this point I was able to remove thathold-down pin. (It could be left inplace if desired, by wrapping it withtape.)

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I used a Harmonic BalancerInstaller/Remover tool set with somelong 3/8” bolts. I think these boltswere about 6 inches long. I used alarge socket over the tip of the pullerto give it a wider pushing surface.

I just turned the shaft of the harmonicbalancer puller with a couple ofwrenches. While turning, sometimesthe puller wanted to tip over, so Iwould just back it off and forceeverything straight again.

After some wrenching, I managed topress the hub (red arrow) out of thebearing. Of course, I had soakedeverything with penetrating oil beforestarting this.

Note that my procedure puts a lot offorce on the tapered roller bearingsinside the sealed bearing unit. I don’tthink this can be avoided, becausethere is no way to reach behind thehub to support the inner race of thebearing unit.



The bearing housing is on the leftand the hub is on the right.

Note the small curved black piece atthe bottom of the photo. At first, Icould not identify this piece, buteventually I realized that this was asymptom of why the sealed bearingfailed: This was part of the plastic“cage” that separates the individualrollers inside the bearing.

A closer view of the inner race of thebearing.

Note how the inner race is actually intwo pieces.

Using a small flat screwdriver, Iscraped this junk out...



… to reveal a big snap ring.

And I mean BIG. This is without adoubt the nastiest snap ring I haveever had to remove.

The arrows point to notches in theends of the snap rings. But Idiscovered that ordinary snap ringpliers were useless in removing thispart.

Eventually, I devised this setup forremoving the giant snap ring:

A pair of plain-Jane garden-varietyslip-joint pliers that I clamped to thebearing housing (and a workbench). Isqueezed the pliers with one handwhile I shoved a tiny flat screwdriverbetween the snap ring and thehousing. Once I got one screwdriverbehind the snap ring, I continuedsqueezing the pliers until I could get 2bigger screwdrivers behind it. Then I

Evil Snap Ring:



Tip: Every time the pliers slip from the hooked ends of the snap ring, the sharp edges getworn down a little, making it more difficult to grab those ends. In other words: You needto get this right the first time, or at least the second time.

was able to pry up one end of thesnap ring and “spiral” it out of thegroove.

The snap ring after being removedfrom the bearing housing. Isn’t this awide bugger?

I think this was the worst part of thewhole job.

Rear Side Of Bearing:

The bearing housing with the bearinginside.

You can clearly see one of the twonotches (arrow) in the housing. Theedge of the bearing’s outer race isvisible at these notches.



You would think that you couldsomehow push on the outer race atthese two notches, and the bearingwould come out. But you would bewrong.

I tried that, using an impact hammer.All it did was mess up the edge of theouter race. I didn’t actually expect anyresults, but I thought I would give it atry.

Since I lacked a good oxy-acetylene torch, I madetwo stacks of cement blocks to use as a fixture tohold the bearing housing so I could place aMAPP/propane torch underneath. This torch is alittle hotter than a regular propane torch, and thetip of this torch is bigger than some. Just by thesize of the flame and the duration of heating, itmight be possible to heat up the housing enoughto break the rust inside, and possibly allow somepenetrating oil in between the parts.

Of course, after I heated this for a while I sprayedit with PB Blaster (penetrating oil).

Inside The Bearing:



After fooling around a bit, the bearingdecided to fall apart. When I wasplaying with the impact hammer, Iloosened the metal part of the sealthat holds the grease inside, which letsome rollers fall out, which led to thissituation.

You can get a good idea how thisbearing works from this photo. Thereare actually two bearings in one unithere... there are 2 inner races, 2 setsof tapered rollers, 2 plastic cages, allencapsulated inside one outer race.

The is what remained of TWO plasticbearing cages. There are supposed tobe two rings on each cage, with abunch of “spokes” between them.



I have NEVER had a rear wheel bearing fail on a truck or car with a conventional solidrear axle. Bearings in that design are bathed in differential fluid, and as long as thefluid level is maintained properly, the bearings seem to last practically forever. Andfront wheel bearings on the old-fashioned rear wheel drive (and 2 wheel drive) vehiclesare easy-peasy to lubricate. They are easy to replace, too.

Note the roller bearings that are stillinside the bearing housing. Note thetwo rollers that are close together,with gaps on both sides of them. Thisis a bad sign. All the rollers should bespaced out evenly around the innerrace. This improper spacing is causedby the destruction of the plasticbearing cage, which probablyhappened when the grease dried up.This is the result of these “lubricatedfor life” bearings that automakers allseem to use today. ALL bearings ofthis type will eventually fail, and thelifetime might not be very long.

A closer view of the outer race. There are twotapered bearing surfaces here, back-to-back.



Removing The Bearing’s Outer Race:

To press on the bearing race, I used abig huge 2-inch socket from a set ofcheapo ¾” drive sockets that I boughtmany years ago.

Other things that might work for amakeshift “press block”: Largediameter (1-1/2 to 2”) iron pipefittings. I have used short pipenipples, couplings or parts of a unionfitting to push against bearings.

I rigged up the harmonic balancerpuller to push on the big socket whilepulling on two of the mounting holesin the housing. Those bolts were about5 or 6 inches long. To adapt to thecenter of the puller, I had to place asmaller socket inside that big socket.In fact, I had 3 sockets nestedtogether so the center post of thepuller could have something stable topush against.

However, since my big El Cheaposocket wasn’t perfectly round itwanted to tip inside the bearing race.But it still worked.



After tightening the puller, I used a small sledgehammer to smack the end of the puller shaft.

I needed to keep the hammering to a minimum,because there is a thrust bearing (or is it aTorrington bearing?) between the black disc andthe shaft of the puller. Wrecking that bearingwould be stupid.

After this photo, I set the whole assembly betweenthe two stacks of blocks and let the torch heat upthe housing for about 10 minutes.

To my surprise, the bearing race(arrow) actually started moving. OnceI had movement, I knew I could dothis job without using a shop press.



Installing The New Bearing In The Housing:It's important to realize that this bearing uses an interference fit. That means the holein the housing is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing, by about 3 or 4thousandths of an inch.

Before installing the new bearing, I cleaned up the bore of the housing first. I sanded thebore with 400 grit emery cloth to remove any rust, and I carefully cleaned the snap ringgroove.

When installing the new bearing, you have one benefit that you don’t have whenremoving. The parts are separate. And separate parts can be made to have differenttemperatures, which can compensate for that weird interference fit stuff.

So, while I ate dinner, I put the new bearing in the freezer, which is about -20 degreesFahrenheit. And I placed the bearing housing in the oven, which I set to 450 degrees. Iused the convection feature of our oven, which in theory should heat the part faster,because a fan circulates the air. I ate a leisurely meal, and after an hour of baking andchilling auto parts, I put the housing in a metal wire basket (similar to the baskets usedon kid’s bicycles) and quickly went to work in the garage.

The outer bearing race after beingremoved (arrow).

This was quite a challenge. You cansee the stack of sockets I used toeffectively “widen” the tip of the pullertool.

In this picture the housing is smokin’hot, perhaps almost 450 degrees.

I spread some copper-based anti-seizearound the inside of the bore. Thisshould make bearing installationeasier.



I set the cold bearing into the housing.While the bearing didn’t exactly dropright in, it was easy to get started inthe hole.

I got the bearing about half way injust by tapping it lightly with ahammer. You need to be careful whenhammering this, so the bearingdoesn’t get tilted AT ALL. By this pointI think a lot of heat had beentransferred from the housing to thebearing, so the size difference startedto disappear.



Remember... the outside diameter of the bearing is a couple of thousandths of an inchBIGGER than the bore in the housing. This is called an interference fit, and it’s used onimportant things like wheel bearings. You can either use a lot of force to install thebearing (the housing will stretch) or you can use temperature differences to make the joba little easier.

I have to wonder if something is lost in translation, or if the outer race is so thin that itcould get bent. Whatever the case, be careful if you follow my procedure. Make sure theold race (being used as a press block) is perfectly aligned with the new bearing. Since Iheated up the bearing housing, the force required to press the bearing into the housingwas much less than what would be expected at room temperature.

Hyundai's service manual says the bearing press-in load should be between 4,500 and5,000 kilograms, which equates to a range of 9,900 to 11,000 pounds. That's 5-1/2tons!

I can confidently say that I did not need to apply 5 tons of force to push the bearing intothe housing, though it certainly got tougher towards the end.

I rigged up the harmonic balancer puller again,only the housing was turned over. Also, I used theold outer race as a press block, with the samestack of sockets inside it.

The 3/8" bolts in this setup were about 7 or 8inches long. I almost had to run out and buy somethreaded rod, but I found some super-long bolts inmy personal hardware collection.

NOTE: Hyundai warns against pressing on thebearing's outer race. They claim it may causedamage. To me, pressing on the inner bearingwould seem more likely to cause damage, bydenting or cracking a roller.

The new bearing after being pressedall the way into the housing. Thiswasn’t too difficult, although it gotnoticeably harder as the bearing gotfarther in and the temperaturesequalized. I would advise workingquickly, and having everything set up



Installing The Hub In The Bearing:Before the hub can be installed in the bearing, the backing plate needs to be set in place.

I applied some anti-seize to the hub and placed it inside the bearing inner race. It’s notpossible to heat up the bearing (much) to make it bigger... I suppose heating to 200degrees F might be acceptable. The hub could be placed in a freezer, giving some extratemperature difference. I don’t think the amount of interference fit is very much.

before taking the parts out of the ovenand freezer.

I installed the snap ring. Before doingthis, I used a Dremel tool and acutting disc to sharpen the metalaround those notches, just in case Ihave to work on this again someday.

I used a piece of 1/2” threaded rodas a “squeezing tool” to force the hubinto the bearing. I used stacks of largediameter washers to push on the innerrace and the face of the hub. I think



these washers were for ¾” bolts (butthey might have been ⅝”).

After some wrenching, the hub waspressed into the bearing. Before thehub was all the way in, I set the brakehold-down pins in their holes andsecured them with masking tape.

Note the shiny bolt, just above myhand. I temporarily bolted the backingplate to the housing, to keep it frommoving around while I was pressingthe hub into the bearing.

I set the bearing housing back into thecar, making sure the rear drive axleslipped through the splines in the hubproperly. (I applied anti-seize to thesplines in the hub first.)

Then I bolted on the housing with the4 original bolts and tightened them to58 to 66 foot-pounds.



At this point, you are supposed to check the end play of the wheel hub. End play issupposed to be less than .05mm, or .002 inches. Checking end play means prying the huboutward and then pushing it inward, and measuring the amount of movement. Themovement is measured with a dial indicator attached to a firm base, such as thesuspension control arm.

I didn't measure end play. I've never measured end play. I've never seen a mechanicmeasure end play, but I don't watch mechanics very often these days. But the engineersput that in their manual, just to be safe. Maybe a dealership mechanic will measure endplay.

I guess I did a "qualitative" check of end play: I grabbed the hub and pushed and pulled. Icouldn't feel it move.

Next I installed the washer and axlenut. The axle nut needs to be reallytight... I went to about 160 foot-pounds on my torque wrench.(Hyundai specifies a torque range of148 to 192 foot-pounds.)

I installed a new cotter pin throughthe axle nut.

A closer view of the mounting boltsthat hold the housing to the rearsuspension.



After this photo, I replaced all the parking brake components, set the brake rotor in place,installed the brake bracket, and bolted on the brake caliper. I put the wheel back on andtorqued the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds.

A Problem:I was not impressed with the sealed bearing I bought at Advanced Auto Parts. Beforeinstalling the wheel, I turned the hub by hand and I could feel a slight “bumping”sensation instead of the perfectly smooth rotation you would expect. When I test drovethe car, I could hear a very slight noise. I’m hoping this noise goes away, or at leastdoesn’t get worse too soon, but I’m not so foolishly optimistic to expect it.

I wonder if maybe the plastic bearing cage inside the bearing got damaged duringinstallation, and now a little piece of plastic is floating around and getting run over byroller bearings? I don't know... but if the bearing noise returns I will have to replace thebearing agan.

I’m not too sure about the quality of auto parts at national chains like AutoZone andAdvanced Auto Parts.

Hyundai Technical Information:

Hyundai is generous enough to provide a website that gives car owners (or anyone,actually) free access to a lot of service manual information:

HyundaiTechInfo.com

The site is a bit quirky. After logging in, you can click on "Shop" to find shop manuals.Now... 9 out of 10 people would think "Shop" would take them to an online store tobuy something. But that's not how this site works.

Then you have to pick your vehicle from a drop-down box, but there are multiplemodels where you would expect to see just one. For example, there are 4 entries forthe Santa Fe: DMA, CM, NC, and SM.

According to Wikipedia's page about the Hyundai Santa Fe:

SM is the first generation, model years 2001 to 2006.CM is the second generation, model years 2007 to 2012.DM is the third generation, model years 2013 and later.

I have no idea what the "NC" designation means, or why they list "DMA" instead of"DM". (The site seems to leave you with as many questions as answers.)

And then you pick the year from the next drop down box, which will limit the entriesthat show up in the big blank box on the left side of the page. And picking an enginewill limit the results even more. In my case, there is just an icon of a book with thetext "G 2.7 DOHC".

https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Santa_Fe



Clicking on that text opens up the book to reveal 16 chapters such as EngineMechanical and Brake System. I clicked on Driveshaft and Axle and found Rear AxleAssembly within that chapter. THIS IS A LOT LIKE THE HELP FILES YOU FIND INAPPLICATION SOFTWARE, like Microsoft Word or Excel.

Speaking of Microsoft, there is one hitch with HyundaiTechInfo.com... YOU NEED TOUSE MICROSOFT INTERNET EXPLODER TO USE THE WEBSITE!!!!! W... The F...!!!

I could not get the site to work properly with Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox. I nevertried Safari.

So when I finally choose "Rear Hub / Carrier", there were two choices: "Componentand Compenent Location", and "Repair Procedures". Many chapters have these twochoices. The location page will display an exploded diagram of the pertinent parts onthe right side of the screen, and the repair page will display text and smaller imagesthat are basically ripped directly from the factory service manual, as far as I could tell.

THIS IS REALLY FRIGGIN' AWESOME. Hyundai is practically giving away the factoryservice manuals for their entire lineup of cars. Kudos to Hyundai for not being likeeverybody else and trying to squeeze hundreds of dollars from you for a manual. Yay!Information wants to be freeeeee!

AND YOU CAN PRINT OUT EACH PAGE USING THE PRINT BUTTON. You can also emailthe page to yourself, but I found that none of the images showed up when opened inGmail. Maybe it will work in MS Outlook? Oh well... But seriously, you can print yourown factory service manual, one page at a time.

Suddenly, working on my Mom's car doesn't seem like such a hassle.

Their website also has sections on TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins), DTC's(Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and a bunch of other stuff. If you own a Hyundai, or youwork on Hyundais, you'll want to set up an account at HyundaiTechInfo.com. It's free.

More Info:Tools Used:

Drum Brake ToolsImpact WrenchImpact HammerSockets and Ratchets, VariousWrench, 14mmPliers, Slip-JointBar Clamps, 12"Harmonic Balancer Installer / Removal

Tool Set

Materials Used:

Sealed Bearing Unit, 76mm x 42mm x39mm (OD x ID x Width) (Available onAmazon)

Copper-Based Anti-Sieze

https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/

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Related Articles:

Index Of All ArticlesReplacing Front Wheel Bearing - GM 4x4Replacing Front Brake Pads

[Top of Page]

3/8" Bolts, 6" Long, 8" LongMisc. 3/4" Drive Sockets (For Press

Blocks)8" piece of 1/2" threaded rod, with

washers and nutsTorchOvenFreezer

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Written February 25, 2013

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