Rainbow

ART AND SCIENCE OF HAIR COLOR OBJECTIVES

• What is COLOR? Law of Color Color Wheel: Basic Color Theory

• Identifying Existing Hair color

• Understanding Natural Pigment

• The Level System/ 7 Stages of Enlightening

• Haircolor Chemistry/ Types of Haircolor

• Analysis/ Hair Color Consultation Aveda Applications Aveda Full Spectrum Hair Color/Aveda

Enlightenment Blonding Foiling Techniques/Dimensional Color

Placement

Color surrounds us, interacts with our bodies and energies, affects our moods and makes things appear warm or cool, exciting or calming. page

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It was Sir Isaac Newton who, in the 17th century discovered that the white light from sun

contains all the colors we see. He proved this by separating the colors of the rainbow through

a glass prism.

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Chromatic color is the colors of the rainbow

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Achromatic color is white, black, and shades of grey

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Law of Color• The first theory

of color is that white is the combination of all colors in the light spectrum reflected. Conversely, black is a combination of all colors in the light spectrum absorbed.

Law of Color • A system for

understanding color relationships.

• When combining colors you will always get the same result from the same combination.

13.1

The Color WheelPrimary Colors• Blue

• Red

• Yellow

Secondary Colors Orange Green Violet

13.1

The Color WheelTertiary Colors

• Red /Orange

• Yellow /Orange

• Yellow /Green

• Blue /Green

• Blue /Violet

• Red /Violet

13.1

Tone is described as Warmth or Coolness

Warm Colors-

R R/O O Y/O Y

Neutral Color-

R/V Y/G

Cool Colors-

V B/V B B/G G

13.1

Neutralizing and Complementary Color• Colors positioned

opposite each other on color wheel

• Neutralize each other

• Primary missing

• All three primary colors when mixed will also create a shade of brown

13.1

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Intensity of Tone

•The brightness, vividness or the strength of a color tone

•Can be strong, medium, mild

13.1

How does Color Theory relate to

Hair Color?•By realizing the saturation of blue, red, yellow will determine the darkness of the color.

•Hair Color can be described in two ways:

level (darkness or lightness)

tone (the characteristic of color)

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The Level System• Level refers to the depth of color according to the natural lightness and darkness of the hair.

• it also refers to the measurement of lightness or darkness that can be achieved with permanent hair color.

• Color ranges from Level 1(black) to a Level 10(lightest blonde)

**11/12 Hi Lift Blondes

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13.1

Level / Tone• When using hair color to lift the level, tones can be

selected to change the characteristic of the shade.

• Tone :: Natural, ash, gold, copper, red, red/violet, red

• Adding tones can also make lift appear different.

• Warm tones reflect more light and may appear slightly lighter.

• Cool tones absorb the light and may make the lift appear slightly darker.

13.1

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Hair Structure Composition of Hair

The Cuticle is the outer layer of the Hair

The Medulla is the tubular core at the center of the hair shaft and often absent in hair strands.

The cortex is the middle layer. It is the largest and most important part of the hair. It is inside of the cortex of each hair strand that nature creates natural hair coloring with a substance called Melanin.

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Composition of the Hair

Hair is composed of a protein called Keratin

It is found throughout all three layers of the hair strand

TRICHOLOGY REVIEW

Melanocytes- pigment producing cellsMelanosomes- protein packets that surround melaninMelanin- pigment you are born with

13.2

Melanocytes ProduceEumelanin:

The natural black to deep red pigment which gives dark color to the hair

Pheomelanin:

The natural red to pale yellow pigment which gives light color to the hair

Mixed Melanin- Both types are present in one melanin granule The

Natural color of the hair is determined by:

1. Type of Melanin

2. Amount of Melanin

3. How closely packed or scattered the melanin is within the cortex

13.2

Decolorization Process/ Stages of Lightening• Granular colors (black and brown)

lift quickly and easily because they are bigger and fewer (Eumelanin)

• Diffused colors (red and yellow) lift slowly because they are smaller and more concentrated (Pheomelanin)

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NATURAL MELANIN +ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT= FINAL COLOR RESULTS

13.2

Melanin• Canities is the absence of pigment in hair due to age or congenital conditions.

• Amount on non pigmented hair on guests head is usually described in percentages: 25% 50% 75%

• referred to as “resistant” to color because it may have up to 24 layers of cuticle (pigmented has less than 10 layers)

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13.2

Trichochromes• Sub-caterory to Pheomelanin in natural sandy-red hair

• Responsible for natural strawberry blonde shades

• Contain more red than yellow-more difficult to lighten to pale yellow

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TextText

*Hair at Scalp Area is softer in

texture than

keratinized hair in mid and ends.*The heat from the

scalp affects product*Refer to correct product

application

Hair AnalysisTexture is determined by the

diameter of the individual hair strand. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures.

• Fine- takes color faster

• Medium

• Coarse- may take longer to process• Density is the number of hairs per square inch and can range from thick to thin.

13.2

Hair Analysis

Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid.

• High- cuticle is lifted and the hair takes color quickly but also may fade easily

• Average- slightly raised cuticle will process at average amount of time

• Low- tighter cuticle, hair is resistant, and requires longer processing time

13.2

The Decolorization Process

• When hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline substance like hair color or bleach and is applied to the hair, a chemical reaction occurs called oxidation.

• The peroxide begins to change the melanin structure by breaking the granules into tiny fragments that are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree.

Chemistry of Hydrogen Peroxide The initiator of color development process • Hydrogen peroxide + ammonia :: opens

cuticle and lightens the natural haircolor by reacting with melanin and breaking it up *The longer the lightening substance remains in contact with the hair, the more the melanin is changed.

• Hydrogen peroxide + hair color molecules :: oxidizing hair color molecules to the selected shades

• Performs two functions:

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developers/volume =

oxidizing agent• 3% =10 volume

• 6% =20 volume

• 9% =30 volume

• 12% =40 volume

13.3

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Stages of Lightening• As the hair is decolorized(whether the lifting process is

chemical or caused by the sun), it will move through seven specific stages of lift depending on the natural starting level

• Black, brown, red, red/orange, orange, yellow, and pale yellow

• The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has and the length of time the lightening product is processed

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The Seven Stages of Lightening/10 Degrees of Decolorization

• During the Decolorization process, there are only 7 stages of lightening that our eye will detect.

• Decolorizing the hair to one of the seven stages exposes the Natural Remaining Pigment (NRP) for the final result.

• The Hair color exposes 10 Degrees of Decolorization

13.3

Natural Remaining PigmentWhen permanent hair color is used, it is important to identify the

N.R.P. at each of the 10 levels.

• 10 Lightest Blonde• 9 Very Light

Blonde• 8 Light Blonde• 7 Medium Blonde• 6 Dark Blonde• 5 Lightest Brown• 4 Light Brown• 3 Medium Brown• 2 Dark Brown• 1 Black

Pale Yellow Yellow Yellow/

Orange Orange Red/Orange Red Red Red Red Red

**Hair will not lift to each new level in equal amounts of time- due to makeup of diffused pigment the lifting process slows down when lifting

red and yellow

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Natural Remaining Pigment and Complementary Color

N.R.P. is the tonal value that that hair contributes as it lightens.

It is important to determine the N.R.P. the hair will contribute at the desired level, prior to coloring the hair.

Once it’s identified, you must determine whether you want to enhance or neutralize the N. R. P. and select your shade accordingly.

Hair Color Categories

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13.3

Temporary Color• Pre-Formed (direct dyes), that

penetrate only the cuticle layer of the hair shaft

• Come in different forms (rinses, aerosols, gels, color shampoos)

• Typically last from one shampoo to the next

13.3

Semi-Permanent Color• Direct dyes that are relatively small

molecules which, in the proper base, can penetrate into the hair fiber sufficiently well to resist immediate shampooing

• No chemical change to the hair since peroxide and ammonia are not used

• Duration is approximately 4-6 shampoos

13.3

Demi-Permanent Color

• Oxidizing (indirect)dyes

• Similar to permanent hair color dyes as they need to be mixed with a developer in order to create the shade

• Often contain no ammonia and are not designed to lighten the natural hair color

• Duration is generally 4-6 weeks depending on the hair’s porosity

13.3

Permanent Color• Lightens

• Darkens (covers grey)

• Changes Tone

• Oxidizing hair color that contains ammonia which performs two actions taking place simultaneously

• Lightens the hair’s natural pigment revealing the N.R. P.

• Color dyes develop inside the cortex of the hair and in conjunction with the N.R.P. create the new hair color

• Designed to be re-touched every 4-6 weeks

13.3

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Enlightening/ Lighteners

• LIGHTENERS are used to remove or diffuse melanin.

• can be available in on scalp / off scalp formulas

• Contributing pigment is pigment that lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when selecting a haircolor

•Vegetable Hair Color- Henna

•Metallic Hair color- Grecian Formula

To test for Metal Salts=20 drops water +1 drop 28% Ammonia

HAIR COLOR CONSULTATION

• Perception is important in hair color

• 85% of your success in the field of cosmetology is a result of your personal attributes such as your personal image, your goal orientation and very importantly, your ability to communicate effectively. page

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Aesthetic Analysis

Aesthetic Analysis

CONSULTATION- most important part of color

service • GREET

• OBSERVE

• LISTEN

• SUGGEST

• CONFIRM

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Analysis / Guest Natural AttributesIdentification of color: PORTFOLIO

Hair’s Natural Color•When determining the color formulation the base/natural color needs to be considered nape to crown to hairline and also from the scalp through the ends

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The Level System

To determine natural level you must:• Take a ½ inch square section in the crown area and

hold it up from the scalp.

• Use a natural level finder swatch that matches the hair

• Move the swatch from the scalp area along the hair strand

• Determine the natural hair color level

Complexion and Eye Color•WARM PEOPLE=WARM TONES / COOL PEOPLE=COOL TONE

*see COLOR HARMONY Chart page 21

Fair-Medium Warm (yellow)

Medium-Deep warm (orange)

Fair-Medium (pink)

Medium-Deep (olive)

*Use caution when selecting appropriate hair color, especially when the color is a whole head color rather than a highlight or

lowlight. When performing dimensional color, you have the option of adding more colors that would not be flattering if all the hair

were colored that shade.

**For Natural Looking Results Encourage Guests to color within 1-2 levels

***For Avant Garde all rules can be broken

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes

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Age and its effect on skin

• Most colors chosen for mature clients are lighter and softer; women who were colored level 1n at 35 may not wish to maintain it at 65

• Complexion becomes lighter with age and the tissue around the eyes become darker. Hair color should look good on the client at his/her current age

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes

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Lighting• The lighting in the salon

area should ideally be natural or non-florescent. If the client will be in a specific type of light, your color choice may reflect that.

• Example: people who work under florescent lights may want their hair color to be a bit warmer to compensate for the cool tone of the that lighting

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes

HISTORY OF PREVIOUS HAIRCOLOR

Guest Status:

New/Regular Guest:: Like and dislikes related to past services?

Do they want to change their color formula or service type?

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes

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Maintenance and Upkeep: How often does the client want a retouch? or color change?

COLOR BLUEPRINT

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Analysis

History of Previous hair color

Desired Result

Pre work

Formula Application

Processing Time

Home Maintenance

AvedaHair Color

Consultation1. Analyze the condition of the hair.

2. Ask questions to determine the guest’s hair color history

3. Ask questions to establish the guest’s desired result

4. Establish a price before beginning the hair color service

5. Give the guest a timeframe for the initial service, as well as schedule future appointments

6. Recommend Aveda products for home maintenance

Hair Color Cautions• ASSESSMENT of hair condition

• HAIR HISTORY products used, services performed, how often shampooed and conditioned, how hair is styled, chlorine and sun exposure *recommend services for deep cleansing or conditioning

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Hair Color Cautions• Have you ever experienced any scalp/skin irritation

from previous chemical services?

• What chemical services have you had and when?

• What type of hair color services have you had and when?

• How well does color last in your hair?

• How do you plan to style your hair?

• Do you swim in a pool?

• Do you wash you’re hair in water that has sustantial amount of minerals in it?

• ?? ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS ??

Hair Color CautionsApproach with extreme caution hair that has been

treated with any of the following

• Ammonium Thioglycolate

• Sodium Hydroxide

• Calcium Hydroxide

• Potassium Hydroxide

Because hydroxide relaxer and lightener (bleach) are both strong alkalis with ph levels over 10.0, applying either of them to hair treated with the other will cause severe damage and porosity

**Use extreme caution on bleached or lightened color that has severe breakage

APPLICATIONS

*Always perform Strand Test to ensure desired end result. This enables us to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.(also to see how non aveda color might react with Aveda)

GUEST COMFORT AND PROTECTION: apply Barrier Cream (Anti- Humectant/All Sensitive Composition) to hairline, this is used to protect

guests skin from absorbing hair color

6 Steps to Implement Perfect Color Service

1. Consultation2. Formulation3. Mixing4. Application5. Processing6. Removal

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APPLICATION

Virgin Lighter Hair Color

APPLICATION • Divide hair into 4 sections from ear to ear, over point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.

• Secure each section

• Starting at the nape area take 1/4”-1/8” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area and porous ends after the midlengths have been brought up to ½ the desired shade

MIDSTRAND TO ENDS THEN BASE

Lightening Resistant & Fine Hair

• Areas on the head that are more resistant to lightening are• Center front hairline

• Front of the ears

• Nape Area

• Areas on the head where hair is fine will lighten more easily are

• Crown

• temples

Double Process Blondes

lightening and toning

• Double process blonde is a technique used to create toned results

• Use Enlightener in a virgin lighter application

• Use Full Spectrum Haircolor Permanent or Deposit- Only, as a TONER

*TOWEL DRY THOROUGHLY/ APPLY EQUALIZING SOLUTION

Alternative Virgin Lighter Application

• Instead of traditional virgin lighter application, a higher volume of developer(10 volume higher) is applied to mid-length to porous ends. This ensure even lifting of both the scalp area and the mid-lengths, and can be applied at the same time.

Virgin Darker Hair Color

APPLICATION • Divide hair into 4 sections from ear to ear, over point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.

• Secure each section.

• Outline quadrant with product.

• Starting at the nape area take 1/4” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area on both sides of parting through the midlengths to porous endBASE TO

ENDS

APPLICATION

Aveda Retouch apply to New Growth- the growth of hair after a color service.

Hair Color Balancing

Refresh- color has lost tone and up to one-level.

After hair color is completed processing wet hair with hot water Emulsify color through hair for 2-5 minutes. Shampoo.

*It is recommended that you retouch and refresh every 4-6 weeks

Retouch Reestablish- color has lost tone and1-2 levels. Apply hair color to mid-lengths and ends after retouch. Can remix desired shade with 10 volume or deposit-only formula.

BASE

HOME MAINTENANCE

PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

COLOR BLUEPRINT

AVEDA Consultation1. Analyze Hair Condition

2. Hair Color History

3. Realistic Desired Result

4. Establish Service Price

5. Maintenance/Time Schedule

6. Home Maintenance

Dimensional Color Placement

Foiling Techniques

Foiling TechniquesA cut or style can be compared to the foundations of a tall building. Without this solid, underlying framework, the building would collapse. Before embarking upon a style, it is important to step back and evaluate your subject. A three-dimensional space, similar to a jigsaw puzzle of interlocking shapes, colors, and tones, will add up to a balanced design.

Columbus Skyline

St. Louis skyline

Florence Skyline

What factors would you consider when selecting a

haircut?• Face Shape

• Head Shape

• Thickness of hair

• Texture of hair

• Growth Patterns

• Hairline

• Styling Techniques

• Maintenance

“What factors would you consider when selecting a hair

color placement?”• Face Shape

• Head Shape

• Thickness of hair

• Texture of hair

• Growth Patterns

• Hairline

• Styling Techniques

• Maintenance

Foiling Techniques

All of these factors will help you determine the type of application for color placement or customized hair color—how many foils to use, how many panels the hair is sectioned into, whether you weave or slice, how thick the weaves or slices would be, or how to use a more creative approach.

Color Placement Terminology

• PANELS: Sections that the hair is parted into on the head

• PARTINGS:Sub-Sections that are taken from panels and are then woven or sliced to create highlights

• DENSITY:Number of foils that are in each panel

Color Placement TerminologyLIGHT DENSITY

30% or less of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil

Partings are ½” apart.

Section of hair left uncolored between each foil would be appx. ½” to 1”

MEDIUM DENSITY

•50% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil.

•Partings are ¼” to ½” apart

HEAVY DENSITY

•70% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil

•Partings are 1/8” to ¼” apart

Color Placement Terminology Weaving

Effects:

•Fine Effect - achieved with 10-12 weaves per parting

•Medium Effect - achieved with 6-8 weaves per parting

•Strong Effect - achieved with 2-3 weaves per parting

Always brick lay pattern

Color Placement Terminology Slicing Effect

• A fine effect in slicing is achieved by parting off a fine slice of hair to be colored within the foil. Placement of the next slice is determined by the density desired

• A medium effect is achieved by taking 2 slices in a row, placing each slice to be colored in a foil back to back, before leaving hair out between the foils to be left uncolored

• A strong effect is achieved by taking 3 slices in a row, placing each slice in foil back to back leaving hair out between the next set of foils

One-Length Weaving Technique

3 Section Partial

Partial Highlight add triangle/circle

5 Section Full Highlight

Graduated Slicing Technique

Partial Highlight

Analysis

History of Previous hair color

Desired Result

Pre work

Formula Application

Processing Time

Aveda Enlightenment

Blonding System• Dawn

• Daybreak

• Sunrise

• Daylight

• Sunset

• Twilight

• Dusk

• Eclipse

• DAWN Violet Base levels 6 & above

• Extra Light Platinum Blonde

• DAYBREAK Dark Violet base levels 6 & above

• Extra Light Natural Blonde

• SUNRISE R/V Base levels 6 & above

• Extra Light Beige Blonde

• DAYLIGHT Y/O Base levels 6 & above

• Extra Light Golden Blonde

• SUNSET Orange Yellow Base 6 & above

• Extra Light Copper Blonde

• TWILIGHT Violet Yellow Base 6 & above

• Extra Light Ash Beige Blonde

• DUSK Blue Violet Base levels 5-7

• Extra Light Ash Blonde

• Eclipse Blue Base levels 4-6

• Extra Light Intense Ash Blonde