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Raider Pro 250 (single-seat / double-seat): Service Manual EEC Version: 1.5 April .2005

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FOREWORD

This service manual has been specially prepared to provide all the necessary information for the proper maintenance and repair of the RAIDER PRO 250 (EEC-approved for on-road use). The Buggy fits the needs of a wide variety of buggy users above 16 years old. Those who will service this Buggy should carefully review this manual before performing any repair or service. All information, illustrations, photographs and specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. Due to the improvements or other changes, there may be some discrepancies in this manual. Therefore, if the newest information is requested in future, please contact the local distributor. Distributors reverse the right to make production changes at any time, without prior notice or incurring any obligation to make the same or similar changes for the vehicles previously built or sold.


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CONTENTS 1. General Information -------------------------------------------------------------------------4 2. Periodic Maintenance and Tune-up Procedures ----------------------------------------9 3. Engine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------13

1. Lubrication System---------------------------------------------------------------------13 2. Cylinder Head & Valve----------------------------------------------------------------15 3. Drive Pulley, Clutch & Driven Pulley-----------------------------------------------20 4. Gearbox-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------21 5. AC Generator & Starting Clutch----------------------------------------------------23 6. Crankcase & Crankshaft--------------------------------------------------------------25 7. Cooling System--------------------------------------------------------------------------27 8. Carburetor-------------------------------------------------------------------------------33

4.Reverse Gear Service ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 41 5.Brake System----------------------------------------------------------------------------------43 6.Wiring Diagram ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 47


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1. General Information 1.1 Model Identification

1.1.1 Frame Number The frame number or VIN is stamped under the seat on the vehicle frame and is stuck behind the

seat. 1.1.2Engine Number

The engine number is located on the upper right rear engine case.

1.2 Fuel and Oil Recommendations Be sure to use the specified fuel and oil

1.2.1 Fuel Please use the gasoline of SAE 90# or above. Also we recommend you to use the unleaded gasoline.

1.2.2 Engine Oil Please use the high-quality engine oil of SAE 10w/30SF.

1.3 Break-in Procedure For your first 2 hours of riding, don’t exceed 2/3 throttles. Vary the engine speed for the first 5 hours. Never hold the engine at full throttle for long periods of time.

1.4 Specifications DIMENSIONS SINGLE-SEAT / DOUBLE-SEAT Overall Length 2250mm / 2270mm Overall Width 1360mm / 1610mm Overall Height 1550mm / 1533mm


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Wheelbase 1700mm Ground Clearance 250mm VIN accord with GMVR A01-01 Statutory Plate& Safety Labels accord with GB 7258-1997 ENGINE Model PMI172MM Type Forced Water-cooled, Single Cylinder, 4-stroke Engine Capacity 250cc Displacement 244.3ml Bore×Stroke 72mm×60mm Max. Power 12.5kw or 6500rpm Max. Torque 17.6N.m or 6000 rpm Idle Speed 1500±100rpm CO Emission 7.0g/km HC Emission 1.5g/km Fuel Type SAE 90# or Above (Unleaded) Min. Fuel Consumption 354g/KW.h Lubricate Oil Type SAE 10W / 30 Lubrication Pressure & Splash Cooling Fluid SHELL (Antifreeze) Antifreeze Temperature of Cooling Fluid - 450C Mixing Ratio (Cooling Fluid : Water ) 1:1 Cooling Water-cooled, Electric Ignition C.D.I. Starting Electric Spark Plug D7 Spark Plug Gap 0.6-0.7mm Transmission Chain Transmission Transmission Ratio F 1:1, B 1:1.758 Primary Transmission Ratio 2.2-0.9 Compression Ratio 10.0：1 Reduction Ratio 6.6 Clutch Automatic, Centrifugal, Dry, Shoe Type Generator Outer Rotor, Flywheel Carburetor Vacuum Film Type Absorber Normal (in 10 6 X104 times of experiments) Air Cleaner Paper Element, Filtration Type Gear-Shifting Automatic, Centrifugal CAPACITIES Front/Rear Tire Load Coefficient 77 Front/Rear Tire Speed Level M


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Fuel Tank 9.5L, 130kpa (no leakage in experiments) Starting Time ≤15s Climbing ≥20% Top speed 70kph Tachometer 33-40kph Turning Radius 6m / 5m Acceleration Noise Level ≤80dB (A) Horn 12V 3A 105dB, 93<db (A) <112 Headlight 12V 35W/35W Headlight High Beam Intensity regulations/law-oriented Taillight 12V 5W /21W Turning Light 12V 10W License Light 12V 5W Battery 12V 9A Anti-theft Lock ≥200N.m

Rearview Mirror accord with EEC standards CHASSIS Front/Rear Brake Hydraulic Disc, Foot Control Front Wheel Brake Force ≥923N / ≥1258N Rear Wheel Brake Force ≥1288N / ≥1488N Braking Distance ≤ 7 m@30kmph Parking Brake Hydraulic Disc, Hand Control Front Tire 20.5 X 8.0 –10 Rear Tire 20.5 X 8.0 –10 TIRE PRESSURE Front 175kpa Rear 200kpa WEIGHT Net Weight 295kg / 320kg

* The specifications are subject to change without prior notice.


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1.5 Location of Parts Double-seat

Brush Guard

Engine

Fan

Sub. Water Tank

Fuel Tank

Rear Shock

Absorber

Radiator

Muffler

Rear Reflector

Taillight

Drive Chain Trailer

Hook

Turning

Light


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Single-seat * Please demand for a copy of the Parts Book from your dealer and locate each component location.

Engine

Fan

Sub. Water Tank Fuel Tank

Rear Shock Absorber

Radiator

Muffler

Rear Reflector

Taillight

Disc Brake Drive Chain

Trailer Hook

Turning

Light

Brush Guard


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2. Periodic Maintenance and Tune-up Procedures

2.1 Periodical Checks and Services

The maintenance intervals in the following table are based upon average riding conditions. Riding in unusually dusty areas requires more frequent services. Time of Service Items

Initial Service(First Week)

Monthly Quarterly Yearly

Tire Pressure/Wear I I Brake Performance I I Bolt Tightness I I Air Cleaner C C I Carburetor I A C Spark Plug C, A Drive Chain I I C, A, L Brake Fluid I Replacement Of Gearbox Oil I R Chassis C, I L Fuel Switch/Fuel Tank C Chassis I I Engine Oil R Valve Clearance Of Engine A

Notes: A: Adjust; C: clean; I: inspect, clean or replace if necessary; L: lubricate; R: replace.

2.2 Maintenance and Tune-up Procedures This section describes the servicing procedures of every item in the Periodic Maintenance Intervals Table above.

2.2.1 Spark Plug Clear up the carbon around the spark plug to prevent it from dripping into the cylinder when removing the spark plug.

Removing steps: In general, it should be carried out after the engine has become cold. a. If the spark plug is too tight to remove, spray some rust inhibiter

on the spark plug washer and the thread part; after the inhibiter has


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soaked the washer and thread part, rotate the spark plug; b. Clear up the filth and carbon accumulation on the spark plug with a steel brush or a blade; c. Inspect the spark plug gap (in general it should be about 0.6 - 0.7 mm.); d. If the carbon accumulation or the wear of the spark plug is too serious, replace the spark plug

with a new one of the same specification.

2.2.2 Tire Pressure / Wear Check the tire pressure before each of your driving. The tire pressure is very important for the riding stability.

Specifications: Front Tire: 175kpa Rear Tire: 200kpa

2.2.3 Brake Performance a. Always check if there is plenty of brake fluid in the brake fluid

reservoir; b. Check if the front/rear brake pad is in good condition; c. Check the brake rotor for abnormal wear.

2.2.4 Air Cleaner Clean the air cleaner quarterly, or more often when driving in dusty conditions. If the air cleaner is clogged with dust, its performance will be severely decreased, even the engine damages will probably be caused. Inspection and Cleaning of Filters

Paper Filter a. Remove the filter from its housing; b. Lightly tap the filter on an object to knock out the dust;

c. Replace the filter element if it is wrinkled or torn.

Foam Filter a. Remove the filter out of its steel cage; b. Wash the filter in non-flammable cleaning solvent; c. Submerge the filter in oil and squeeze it to remove excess oil; d. Install the filter element back into the air box.

1. Before and during the cleaning, inspect the element for tears; replace it if it’s torn.

2. Make sure that the element is seated properly and no foreign material can pass by it


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2.2.5 Nuts and Bolts in Chassis Inspect the nuts and bolts in the chassis during the first week and every month thereafter. The nuts and bolts become loose normally after use, please check for the looseness regularly. 2.2.5 Tightening Torque Table

2.2.6 Fuel Pipe &Pressurized Pipe

Fuel Pipe------connects with the carburetor. Pressurized Pipe------connects with the engine air-inlet pipe,

and controls the fuel outlet. When the pipe is pressurized, the fuel valve is open , then the fuel runs out of the fuel pipe; but if there is no pressure in the pipe, the fuel valve is closed, so the fuel cannot run of the fuel pipe.

Fuel Valve Lever

On this vehicle, there is a manually-operated fuel valve lever with three positions: a. “ON” position: It’s the normal operating position where the fuel

flows into the carburetor; b. “RES” position: If the fuel lever is in the “ON” position and it is too

low for the engine to operate, turn the fuel lever to the “RES” position to use the reserved fuel supply, and refuel as soon as possible;

b. "OFF" position: It’s the closing position. When the vehicle is not in use, always make sure that the petcock is in the "OFF" position

2.2.7 Final Gear Oil Inspect the final gear oil monthly and replace it quarterly. a. Check the oil level: remove the oil level screw on the left rear engine case;

Conventionally Marked Bolt 8.8 Marked Bolt Bolt Diameter (mm) N•m Kg•m lb-ft N•m Kg•m lb-ft

4 1-2 0.1-0.2 0.7-1.5 1.5-3 0.15-0.3 1.0-2.0 5 1-4 0.2-0.4 1.5-3.0 3-6 0.3-0.6 2.0-4.5 6 4-7 0.4-0.7 3.0-5.0 8-12 0.8-1.2 6.0-8.5 8 10-16 1.0-1.6 7.0-11.5 18-28 1.8-2.8 13.0-20.0 10 22-35 2.2-3.5 16.0-25.5 40-60 4.0-6.0 29.0-43.5 12 35-55 3.5-5.5 25.5-40.0 70-100 7.0-10.0 50.5-72.5 14 50-80 5.0-8.0 36.5-58.0 110-160 11.0-16.0 79.5-115.5 16 80-130 8.0-13.0 58.0-94.0 170-250 17.0-25.0 123.0-181.018 130-190 13.0-19.0 94.0-137.5 200-280 20.0-28.0 144.5-202.5

Fuel Pipe

Pressurized Pipe


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b. Drain out the oil: remove the drain plug at the rear bottom of the engine case; Recommendation: before draining the final gear oil, please warm the engine for at least 10 minutes.

Notes: We recommend the Mobile 85w/90 gear oil for the final drive case. However, in extreme cold weather conditions, the vehicle may become hard to start, so we advise some lighter viscous oil, such as 75 wt or the equivalent motorcycle transmission fluid.

2.2.8 Engine Oil Inspect the engine oil before every riding and replace it monthly. a. Remove the drain plug from the left side bottom of the engine, and drain

out the left oil into an oil pan for disposal; b. Remove the large cap on the left bottom of the engine ,and remove the

screen; c. Wash the screen with some cleaning solvent and reassemble it; make sure that the O-ring is still in

good conditions; d. Refill the engine with the SAE10W/30SF engine oil and run the engine for 5 minutes; e. Check the oil level on the filler cap stick to assure that it’s proper; f. Screw back the large cap.

2.2.9 Chassis Inspect, clean or replace it monthly if necessary and lubricate it quarterly. a. Grease the chassis bushings and bearings with some grease quarterly to make sure that they can

operate smoothly and enjoy an extended life; b. If it’s used in extremely wet, muddy or dusty conditions, we recommend you to service it more

often. 2.2.10 Reverser Adjustment a) Press down the reverse lever to the "FW" position so that the

units can move forward; Pull back the lever to "BW" so that the units can move backward.

b) Adjusting Nut #1 on the top of the reverse cable can adjust the mesh status inside the reverse gear box. In the forward position there should be about 1/4 inch play in the cable for the correct adjustment.

Gear Oil Capacity 0.2L 85w/90


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3. ENGINE

3.1 Lubrication System 3.1.1 Lubrication Diagram 3.1.2 Specifications Engine Oil Capacity 1.0L (Disassembling) 0.8L (Replacing) Engine Oil Type SAE 10W/30SF

3.1.3 Engine Oil Services Engine Oil Level Inspection

a. Stop the engine; b. Stay the vehicle on the flat ground for 2-3 minutes; c. Inspect the engine oil level.

Notes: The engine oil level gauge shouldn’t be screwed in.

Engine Oil Replacement a. Remove the engine oil filler cover;

Drain out the engine oil when the engine is warm;


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Reassemble the filler cover (Torque: 18-20 N.m.); b. Check if the O-rings are damaged; replace them if necessary; c. Fill in the new engine oil;

Engine oil capacity: 1.0 L (Disassembling) 0.8L (Replacing)

Engine oil type: SAE 10W/30SF d. Start the engine to check if there is any leakage;.

Stop the engine and check the oil level again.

Engine Oil Screen Replacement a. Drain out the engine oil, and take out the filter cap and spring; b.. Replace the engine oil screen; c. Reassemble the spring and filter cap; d. Add the specified engine oil into the engine; e. Recheck the engine oil level.

3.1.4 Trouble Shooting The engine oil level is too low.

a. The engine oil has been consumed naturally; b. The engine oil has leaked; c. The piston rings are worn.

The engine oil is dirty. a. The engine oil hasn’t been replaced in time; b. The cylinder head gasket is damaged.

The lubrication isn’t good. a. The engine oil level is too low; b. The oil filter or oil pipe is clogged; c. The oil pump is damaged.


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3.2 Cylinder head & Valve 3.2.1 Disassembly Diagram

1. Timing Sprocket 2. Timing Chain 3. Tension Bar 4.Air Cleaner Bracket 5. Rocker Arm, Air Exhaust 6. Rocker Arm, Air Intake 7.Rocker Arm, Valve 8.Cam Shaft Comp. 9. Spark Plug 10. Exhaust Valve 11.Tensioner 12. Gasket, Tensioner 13. Cylinder 14. Gasket, Cylinder 15.Rubber Pipe, Water Inlet 16.Intake Valve 17.Intake Pipe Comp. 18.Thermostat Comp. 19. Temperature Sensor 20.Rubber Pipe, Water Return 21.Guide Bar 22.Valve Comp.

1 2 322

4

5

6

78

9

10

11 12

13

14 15

1617

18

19

20

21


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3.2.2 Trouble Shooting

The compression is too low or not stable. a. Valve

The lifter hasn’t been adjusted well; The valve is burnt or deformed; The valve spring is damaged; The valve timing is faulty; The valve seat seal is faulty.

b. Cylinder Head

The cylinder head gasket leaks air; The cylinder head is deformed or cracked.

c. Cylinder Piston is faulty. The compression is too high. a. There is a carbon accumulation on the piston or in the combustion chamber.

Noise a. The lifter hasn’t been adjusted well; b. The valve is burnt, or the valve spring is damaged or worn; d. The rocker or the rocker shaft is damaged or worn.

3.2.3 Assemble Valve Rocker Arms & Shafts a) Check if the seals on the valve rocker arm shafts are in good

condition; if damaged, replace them; Put some engine oil on the surface of the rocker arm shafts and the seals.

b) Assemble the two valve rocker arms (exchangeable) in the

place as shown in the picture;

Valve Rocker Arm

Seal


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c) Insert the rocker arm shaft with the mark “IN” into the hole on

the left side of the cylinder head cover and the hole of the rocker arm; At the same time, insert the rocker arm shaft with the mark “EX” into the holes on the right side of the cylinder in the same way;

d) Turn the dials of the two rocker arms to the position as shown

in the picture; Fasten the two dials.

3.2.4. Adjust Valve Clearance a) Open the engine peephole cap;

Adjust the flywheel “ T ” to the maximum reading, while the engine piston reaches the top dead point;

b) Loosen the lock bolts at the intake / exhaust valve dials; ;

Hole on Left Side

of Cylinder

Hole on Right Side

of Cylinder

Rocker Arm of

Ex. Valve

Rocker Arm of

In. Valve

Engine

Flywheel

In. Valve Dial

Ex. Valve Dial Lock Bolt

Lock Bolt


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c) Turn fully outward the intake / exhaust valve dials until the dials can’t be turned any more; d) Turn inward the intake / exhaust valve dials for

1.5~ 2.0 scales (at this moment, the valve clearance should be 0.08mm~0.1mm);

e) Fasten the lock bolts at the intake / exhaust valve dials.

Inward

Ex.

Valve

Dial

OutwardIn. Valve Dial

Outward


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3.3 Drive Pulley, Clutch & Driven Pulley 3.3.1 Disassembly Diagram

1.Crankecase, Right 2.Driven Pulley Comp. 3.Belt 4. Drive Pulley Comp. 5.Gasket, Left Crankcase 6. Crankcase, Left 7.Special Screw Set 8.Shroud (Left Crankcase Cover)

5

1

2

34


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3.3.2 Inspection of Drive Belt. a) Check if the belt is cracked and check if there is abnormal worn. b) Measure the width of the drive belt;

Replace the belt if its width is below 17.5 mm 3.3.3 Inspection of Clutch. Drive Surface a) Check if the clutch cover is worn or damaged;

Measure the inner diameter; Replace the clutch if its inner diameter is above 130.5 mm.

b) Check if the clutch shoes are worn or damaged;

Measure the thickness. Replace the clutch shoes if the thickness is below 2.0 mm.

c) Check the free length of the drive spring;

Replace the spring if its free length is below 83.2 mm.


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3.4 Final Transmission Box 3.4.1 Disassembly Diagram

1.Crankcase, Left 2.Shock Absorber Sleeve, Rear 3.Bearing 6004LU 4.Oil Seal 27*42*7 5.Final Shaft 6.Gear, Final Shaft 7. Washer 17.2*25*1 8. Bearing 6203 9.Needle Bearing NK 1412 9.Washer 14.5*28*1 11. Transmission Shaft, Counter 12.Washer 14.5*32*1 13. Transmission Shaft, Main 14.Oil Seal 20*32*6 15.Gearbox 16.Gasket, Gearbox 17.Bearing 6204 18.Breather Pipe, Gearbox

1 2

8

13

12 11

109

3 4

5

6 7

14

17

16

15

18


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3.4.2 Inspection and Replacement of Gearbox Oil

Inspection of Gearbox Oil level a. Stay the vehicle on the flat ground;

b. Stop the engine and remove the oil level bolt; c. Inspect the gearbox oil level;

If the oil level parallels with the oil level bolt hole, it’s normal.

Replacement of Gearbox Oil a. Replace the gearbox oil with the specified type;

Gearbox Oil Capacity: 0.2 L Specified Gearbox Oil: Mobil 85w/90 Gearbox Oil Level Bolt Torque: 14-18 N.m

b. Check if there is any oil leakage after running the engine; Check the oil level again;

c. Check if the gearbox oil seal is damaged, and replace it if necessary.


The engine can be started, but the vehicle can’t run. a. The gears are damaged; b. The gears are burnt.

Noise a .The gears are worn or burnt ,or the gear surface is damaged; b. The bearing is worn or shaking.

Oil Leakage a. There is too much oil in the gearbox; b. The oil seal is damaged or worn.


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3.5 AC Generator & Starter Clutch

3.5.1 Disassembly Diagram 1.Clutch,Starting 2.Reduction Gear Shaft, Starting 3. Reduction Gear, Starting 4.Magneto 5.Oil Level Dip Stick 6. Oil-Pass Bolt A 7. Oil-Pass Bolt B 8. Oil Pipe 9. Oil-Pass Bolt C 10.Cap, Oil Filter Screen 11.Spring, Oil Filter Screen 12.Oil Filter Screen 13.Crankcase Cover, Right 14.Gasket, Right Crankcase Cover 15.Breather Pipe, Right Crankcase Cover

1

2 3

15 4

5


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The AC generator is faulty. a) The starter reduction gear is faulty. b) The starter motor revolves conversely. c) The wires haven’t been connected well. d) The starter clutch spring is broken, dirty or locked.


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3.6 Crankcase & Crankshaft 3.6.1 Disassembly Diagram

1.Shock Absorber Sleeve, Front 2.Stud Bolt M8*172 3.Stud Bolt M8*162 4.Crankcase ,Right 5.Connecting Rod, Crankshaft 6.Gasket, Left Crankcase 7. Stud Bolt M8*162 8. Crankcase, Left 9. Shock Absorber Sleeve, Rear

1

3

4

2

5

6

7

9

8


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3.6.2 Trouble Shooting Engine noise

a) The bearing is loose. b) The crankshaft pin bearing is loose. c) The piston pin and the piston pinhole are loose.


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3.7 Cooling System 3.7.1 Disassembly Diagram

3.7.2 Points for Attention

The water pump repair and other operations of the cooling system can be carried out on the vehicle;

Carry out the operations when the engine has cooled down; Don’t open the water tank cover when the water temperature is above 100; Don’t spread the water tank fluid onto the tank surface paint; if the fluid spreads out, clean up

the fluid with water; After the inspections and repairs, use a water tank pressure tester to check all the joints and oil


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seals for leakage.

3.7.3 Specifications Pressure of Water Tank Cover Petcock 0.9+/-0.15 kg/cm2

at Beginning of Opening 72+/- 2 Full Opening 90

Temperature of Adjuster Cock Full Opening Volume 3.5-4.5 mm

Volume Of Cooling Fluid about 1190cc Water Tank: 750 cc Sub. Water Tank: 420-300 cc

Notes: a. Use the specified water tank fluid;

b .Don’t mix the fluid of different brands; c. The water tank fluid is poisonous, so don’t drink it.

3.7.4 Water Tank

Inspection of Water Tank Cover------Cooling System Pressure Test

a. Apply some water on the surface of the water tank cover oil seal;

b. Install the water tank cover on the water tank tester; c. Use the tester to apply the standard pressure on the water tank

cover for about 6 seconds to check its stability; Cover Cock Opening and Closing Pressure: 0.9+/- 0.15kg/cm2.

d. Check the water pipe joints for leakage.

Notes: The pressure shouldn’t exceed 1.05kg/cm2. Otherwise the joints of the water pipe may be damaged.

Inspection of Water Tank Fluid Level

a. Check the water tank fluid level; b. .If the fluid level is lower than “F” (the upper limit), add the

specified water tank fluid (standard concentration: 30%) up to “F” (the upper limit).

Notes: the engine temperature doesn’t affect the water tank fluid level.

Replacement of Water Tank Fluid a. When the engine has become cold, replace the water tank fluid;

Specifications: Water Tank Capacity: about 800cc Sub. Water Tank Capacity: about 350cc

Inspection of Radiator

a. Check if the welding seam of the radiator is damaged or leaking; b. Clean the radiator plates if they are clogged or dirty; c. Repair the radiator plates if they are deformed.


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3.7.5 Water pump

Inspection of Water Pump Water Seal a. Check if the drain hole under the right crankcase cover leaks;

If it leaks, the water seal of the water pump is faulty and needs to be replaced;

b. Remove the right crankcase cover and replace with a new water seal.

Replacement of Water Pump Water Seal

a. Take out the water seal from the inside of the right crankcase cover;

b.Assemble a new water seal into the right crankcase cover. Notes: Before the assembly, apply some water seal agent on the

mating surface of the water seal and the right crankcase cover.

Inspection of Water Pump a. Remove the water pump impeller;

b. Check the impeller water seal and water seal washer for damages

and wears;

Replace the impeller water seal together with the water seal washer if necessary;

c. Assemble the water pump shaft and the inner bearing into the right crankcase;

Lock the bearing with the clip;

Radiator


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d. Assemble the right crankcase cover;

e. Assemble the water pump impeller;

f. Replace the water pump water seal together with the impeller water seal if necessary;

g. Assemble the impeller pin on the shaft; Torque: 10 N.m

Notes: Fasten the impeller with the left thread.

Assemble the water pump shaft;

h. Assemble a new outer bearing of the water pump shaft inside the right crankcase cover.


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3.7.6 Heat sensor Disassembly of Heat Sensor

a. Remove the rear side cover on the right; b. Drain out the water tank fluid; c. Disconnect the heat sensor wires; d. Remove the heat sensor.

Inspection of Heat Sensor a. Put the heat sensor into the testing container; b. Raise the water temperature slowly; c. Measure the resistance value of the heat sensor;

Resistance Value of Heat Sensor:

Inspection of Temperature Adjuster

a. Put the temperature adjuster into the testing container; b. Raise the water temperature slowly; c. Measure the temperature of the opening valve.

Valve Specifications:

Notes: a. The heat adjuster shouldn’t touch the testing container directly;

b. If the heat sensor opens at the normal temperature, replace it with a new one; c. When the temperature adjuster has been open for 5 minutes at the temperature of 70 ,

measure again the temperature of the opening valve. 3.7.7Trouble Shooting

The water temperature rises. a. The heat sensor of the thermometer is faulty; b. The water tank cover is faulty; c. The temperature petcock is faulty; d. The tank fluid is insufficient; e. The water pipe and water sleeve are clogged; f. The radiator is clogged; g. The inner part of the water tank is clogged;

Temperature ( ) 50 80 100 120 Resistance value (Ω) 154 52 27 16

Temperature of Opening Valve 72+/- 2 Temperature of Full-opening Valve 90 Rising Volume of Full-opening Valve 3.5-4.5mm


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h. The water pump is faulty.

The thermometer doesn’t show any signs of rising, but the water temperature rises. a. The heat sensor of the thermometer is faulty;

b. The temperature petcock is faulty.

Overheating. a. The water in the water tank is not enough. Please fill the water tank at 2~3 times. b. The water hoses are not correctly connected, or not properly connected. c. The fan is out of order.


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3.8 Carburetor 3.8.1 Disassembly Diagram

Carburetor Hoses Positioning Picture 1. Picture 2. 1. Fuel Hose 7. Oil Drainage Screw; Carburetor 2. Breather Hose, Engine 8. Rubber Hose, Oil Drainage 3. Pressurized Hose (connecting with Air Intake Hose) 4. Three-Way Hose and Clamp 5. Thin Water Hose (connecting with Thermostat and Thin Water-Inlet Hose of Water Tank); 6. Thick Water Hose

1 2 3 4

3 5

6

7

8


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3.8.2 Points for Attentions

No smokes or fires in the working places; Assemble the O-rings correctly and replace them with new ones if necessary; Drain out the fuel in the float chamber before disassembly; Don’t disassemble the automatic choke by yourself.

3.8.3 Specifications

Pipe Diameter 22mm Main Jet 100 Body Mark BS26-1245 Low Speed Jet # 35 Fuel Level 18.5+/-1.0mm Idle Speed 1500+/-100rpm Air Adjusting Screw 1 3/4

3.8.4 Automatic Fuel Cup

No smokes or fires!

Inspection of Automatic Fuel Cup a. Stop the engine and pull out the fuel tube from the carburetor; b Drain out all the remaining fuel in the fuel cup and tube

(5-10cc); c. .If the fuel stops flowing, the fuel cup is normal;

If the fuel continues to flow out, the negative pressure tube is clogged.

Inspection of Negative Pressure Tube

a. Pull out the negative pressure tube from the air intake pipe and suck with mouth to produce the negative pressure on the vacuum film;

b. If when the vacuum film produces the negative pressure, the fuel flows out of the fuel tube; and when the negative pressure stops, the fuel stops flowing, the automatic fuel cup is normal; otherwise, it is abnormal;

c. If the automatic fuel cup is abnormal, firstly check if the negative pressure tube is clogged, and clean it at once; then blow the film from the air intake pipe of the automatic fuel cup.

3.8.5 Automatic Side-circuit Starter

Inspection of Automatic Side-circuit Starter a. Check the conduction of all the automatic side-circuit starter wires;

Standard Resistance Value: below 10Ω (10 minutes after the engine stops) b. Replace the automatic choke if the resistance value exceeds the standard value;


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Inspection of Automatic Choke a. Connect a tube with the fuel-adding line of the carburetor; b. Connect the yellow wire of the choke with the battery + electrode;

Connect the green wire of the choke with the battery – electrode; Blow the choke with mouth 5 minutes later; If the air doesn’t go smoothly, it is normal;

c. Remove the automatic choke wire from the battery; Blow the choke with mouth 30 minutes later; If the air goes smoothly, it is normal.

3.8.6 Inspection of Fuel Level a. Check the fuel level of the main jet;

Standard Fuel Level: 18.5+/-1.0mm b. Check the float and assemble the float fuel tube.

3.8.7 Adjustment of Idle Speed

a. Start the engine and warm up for several minutes; b. Fasten the fuel adjusting screw fully and turn back the

standard 1~ 3/4 turns; c. Adjust the fuel adjusting screw to the specified idle speed; d. Turn the fuel adjusting screw left and right slightly; e. Repeat steps c, d; f. Adjust the throttle adjusting screw to the idle speed position (1,500+/-100rpm);

g. Run the engine from low speed to high speed; Run the engine at the idle speed for 10~ 15 seconds to see if the idle speed is stable;

h. If the idle speed changes, repeat steps c~f.

3.8.8 Inspection of Air Cleaner a. Check if the air cleaner is damaged; b. Replace it with a new one if necessary; c. Clean the air cleaner every 1,000 km. of running; d. Replace the air cleaner every 5,000km of running.

3.8.9 Ignition Timing

Adjustment of Ignition Timing The C.D.I. is used, so there is no need to adjust the ignition timing. If the ignition timing isn’t normal, check the C.D.I. and AC generator.

Inspection of Ignition Timing


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a. Turn on the ignition timing lamp; b. Align the mark “F” within the range of

+/-3º at the rotation of 1,700rpm; Ignition Timing: B.T.D.C 13º+/-3 1700rpm.

c. If the rotation is above 3,000rpm, the aligning mark should be located before the advanced ignition mark.

3.8.10 Inspection of Spark Plug

a. Check if the spark plug is burnt or has become dirty. Check if there is any carbon on the spark plug;

b. Clean the spark plug if necessary; Specifications: Spark Plug: D7 Spark Plug Gap: 0.6-0.7mm

3.8.11 Compression

Specification: 11.0-15.0kg/cm2 (400rpm).

Trouble Shooting The compression is too low.

a. The valve leaks; b. The valve clearance is too big; c. The cylinder head gasket is damaged; d. The piston rings are worn; d. The piston rings and the cylinder are worn.

The compression is too high.

a. There is too much carbon in the combustion chamber and on the piston head.

Inward


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The engine can’t start well.


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The engine can’t run stably or smoothly at the idle speed. a. The idle speed hasn’t been adjusted well;

b. The gas mixture in the carburetor is too dense; c. The gas mixture in the carburetor is too lean.

d. The air cleaner is clogged; e. Some air has been inhaled into the air suction system; f. The fuel has deteriorated; g. The air valve doesn’t work well; h. The negative pressure tube is damaged; i. The connecting pipe of the carburetor is damaged.

The engine stalls when the throttle is fully open.

a. The negative pressure piston film is damaged; b. The negative pressure tube is clogged.

The gas mixture is too lean.

a. The fuel jet is clogged; b. The air hole of the fuel tank cover is clogged; c. The fuel filter is clogged; d. The fuel tube is clogged; e. The float valve doesn’t work well; f. The fuel level is too low.

The gas mixture is too dense. a. The automatic choke is opened too widely; b. The float valve doesn’t work well; c. The fuel level is too high; d. The air cleaner is clogged; e. The automatic chock hasn’t been assembled correctly.

The carburetor can’t start, or becomes difficult to start.

Reason Analysis: After the tryout, the carburetor has been exposed in the air for a long period, so that a layer of mucous membrane has formed and blocked the main jet. As a result, the oil can’t flow smoothly and the engine starting becomes difficult, or the engine stops soon after starting. Solvent a. Check if there is any damage or leakage on the

pressurized tube of oil cock;

PressurizedTube


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b. Clean the carburetor and readjust the idle speed according to the steps below: a) Open the connecting tube between the air cleaner

and carburetor.

b) Spray a little carburetor cleanser into the carburetor.

c) Start the engine and run for a while, then quickly step on the throttle pedal for several times .If

the engine works well, assemble the connecting tube; otherwise, repeat the steps above several times. Readjust the idle speed if it is unstable.

Connecting Tube

Spray Cleanser


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4. Reverse Gearbox

4.1 Check and Service a) Every time before driving, check if the forward gear and backward gear/reverse gear can work

agilely and smoothly; b) For the safety of traveling, the vehicle must be in the parking state when the reverse gear is

working. c) In order to maintain the excellent performance and long service time of the reverse gear, please

don’t shift gear when traveling at high speed; d) Service the reverse gear periodically. Replace the lubricant every 5000km or 6-month of running.

Lubricant: Lithium base grease. Capacity 250ml

4.2 Precautions a) Before servicing or maintaining., remove the reverse gear from the vehicle frame; b) When assembling,make sure to insert the pin into the splined tube grooves, and meanwhile lock

the bolt in the corresponding positioning grooves of the fork shaft , Note: Close the bolt fully, turn back the standard 1/2 turning, and tighten the lock nut.

4.3 Removal and Assembly The picture below is the disassembly diagram of the reverse gearbox.


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4.3.1 Removal Sequence

Drive sprocket—Gearbox cover—Input shaft—Center shaft—Lock bolt—Output shaft—Fork—Fork shaft

4.3.2 Assembly Sequence

Reverse the removal sequence.

4.4 Troubleshooting Gearshift is out of order.

a The adjustment of shifting lever is improper. b The swing angle of the pin on the gearshift fork is too big. c The brake is out of order, the lock bolt isn’t locked in the positioning grooves of the fork shaft,

and the fork shaft is caused to fall off the gearbox. d The circlip on the input shaft or output shaft is fallen off, and the gear shaft is caused to move

axially. e The splined tube is damaged. f The output gear is damaged.

Abnormal noise in gearbox. a. The circlip on the input shaft or output shaft is fallen off, and the gear shaft is caused to move

axially. b. The splined tube is damaged. c. The output gear is damaged. d. The lubricant loses efficacy, and the lubricating effect isn’t good.


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5. Brake System

5.1. Parking Brake System Adjust Hand Brake Cable

a) Loosen the 2 lock nuts at the front end of the hand brake cable; If the cable is too loose, turn the follow-up coil counterclockwise; If the cable is too tight, turn the follow-up coil clockwise; If the cable is still too loose/tight after the follow-up coil is turned to the last thread, fasten the 2 lock nuts and go on with the next step.

b) Loosen the 2 lock nuts at the rear end of the hand brake cable; If the cable is too loose, turn the follow-up coil clockwise; If the cable is too tight, turn the follow-up coil counterclockwise; If the cable is still too loose/tight after the follow-up coil is turned to the last thread, fasten the 2 lock nuts and go on with the next step.

c) Loosen the lock nut at the adjust bolt of the rear brake chamber;

If the cable is too loose, turn the adjust bolt counterclockwise; If the cable is too tight, turn the adjust bolt clockwise; Fasten the lock nut.

Note: The adjust bolt adjusts the gap (1~2mm) between the brake pad and brake disc. If the adjust bolt is too tight, the rear brake will get blocked, and the parking brake system will not function.

If after the hand brake handle is pulled 4~7 scales, the brake

system starts functioning, and the vehicle is locked in the original position without any moving, the brake system is in good condition.

Follow-up Coil

Lock Nuts Follow-up Coil

Lock Nut

Adjust BoltHand Brake Handle


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5.2.Traveling Brake System 5.2.1 Check Brake Fluid a) Look through the peephole of the brake pump assy.;

Observe if the surface of the brake fluid is at the 1/2~2/3 of the peephole;

b) If it is, the brake fluid is enough; If it is below the 1/2~2/3 of the peephole, the brake fluid is not enough, and needs adding.

5.2.2 Check Sealing of Brake System a) The brake system need good sealing;

Replace or repair at once if the brake hose is damaged, or there is any leakage on the brake pump.

Note: Before replacing or repairing, exhaust the air in the brake system; otherwise, the brake system will not function.

5.2.3 Check Brake Pad a) Loosen the 4 lock nuts of the front tire;

Remove the tire. b) Loosen the 2 lock nuts of the front brake chamber. c) Remove the front brake chamber;

Take out the brake pad; Inspect for the wear condition on the surface of the brake pad; If there are deep dents on the surface of the brake pad, or the thickness of the brake pad surface is less than 2.0mm, replace

Peephole

Lock Nuts Lock Nuts

Front Brake Chamber

Brake Pad


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the brake pad. Note: When disassembling the rear brake chamber, only need to remove the 2 lock nuts on it.

5.2.4 Check Brake Disc a) Check for the wear condition on the surface of the brake disc;

If there are deep dents or burn scars on the surface, replace the brake disc.

5.2.5 Check Brake Chamber a) Check if there is any leakage on the piston of the brake chamber;

Check if the movable brake caliper can move swiftly; If there is any leakage ,or the brake caliper can’t move, replace the brake chamber.

5.2.6 Check Brake Pump a) Check if there is any leakage on the piston of the brake pump; b) Press hard on the brake pedal;

Inspect if the piston can return to its original position automatically;

c) If there is any leakage, or the piston can’t return automatically, the brake pump is damaged, and need replacing.

Lock Nuts

Rear Brake Chamber

Brake Disc

Piston

Movable Brake Caliper

Brake Pump


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5.3. Troubleshooting 5.3.1 The brake system is out of order, and can’t function at all. a) Check if the brake fluid is enough;

If it isn’t, add some; If it is, go on with the next step.

b) Check if the brake pump, brake chamber and fuel pipes are damaged, and if there is any leakage; If damaged, need repairing.

c) After the repair, remove all the left air out of the brake system; Otherwise the brake system will not work.

5.3.2 The front and rear brake forces are not even. a) Loosen the lock nut at the roof bar of the brake pump;

Adjust the bar; If the front brake works well but the rear brake doesn’t, turn the right roof bar clockwise;

If the rear brake works well but the front brake doesn’t, turn the left roof bar clockwise; If the front /rear brake is blocked, turn respectively the right/left roof bar counterclockwise.

b) Fasten the lock nut. 5.3.3 How to exhaust the air in the brake system? a) Check if the brake fluid is enough;

If it isn’t, add some.

b) Quickly press down the brake pedal and release it; Repeat the action for over ten times.

c) Step on the brake pedal again; Meanwhile loosen the exhaust lock nut on the left front brake chamber.

d) After the air is vented out of the brake system, fasten the exhaust lock nut.

Lock Nut

Right Roof Bar

Exhaust Nut


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e) Repeat the steps above until no air runs out of the brake chamber; Exhaust the air out of the right front/rear brake chamber in the same way. Wiring Diagram

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