raggedy ruff designs raggedy ruff designs · needle turn applique but if you follow the same order...
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©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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Raggedy Ruff Designs
Goldcrest and Daffodils
Finished size 10” by 8” (or 15” by 12”)
Raggedy Ruff Designs
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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You will need:
Mount: 8 by 10” with a 7 by 5” aperture
Wadding: 8 by 6” cotton wadding
Background fabric: You can use any colour you like but make sure it is a good contrast to your fabric
and thread colours or it will get a bit muddled. I used a warm lilac and an off white to match the mount
colour.
Main piece Lilac: 9” by 7” (large 16” by 13”)
Daffodil background: Lilac 9” by 3” and off white: 9 by 2” and 5” by 3”
Goldcrest background: Lilac 5 by 3” and off white 5 by 3”
Felt: 9” by 10”. This is to cover the back of the daffodil and Goldcrest and provide a neater edge. If
you are using the embroidery as part of another piece of work, then you probably won’t need this. I
used a cream colour.
Stabiliser: 9” by 7” (large 16” by 13”) and 9 by 4” and 5 by 5” There are lots of types of stabilisers. For
this project, I used a medium weight cut away stabiliser and just left it in when I had finished. When I
am hand quilting, I use a papery tear away one. It isn’t as nice as the cut away one but you can get it
out easily and then quilting is much better. I don’t like the soluble ones as I find they stick a bit on the
machine and don’t move as easily but that is a personal choice.
Thread:
I used the following threads by Wonderfil:
Saddle brown polyester thread Designer DS893
Dark brown polyester thread Designer DS896
Variegated green for the daffodil leaves and bluebell stems TU32
Black confetti 50wt cotton KT200 for eye
Variegated citrus yellow for feather details and daffodils Tutti cotton 50wt TU03
Yellowy beige for the tufty feathers Tutti cotton 50wt TU14
Variegated off white for feather details Tutti cotton 50wt TU41
Variegated orange for daffodil trumpets Tutti cotton 50wt TU07
Variegated brown for brown stems Tutti cotton 50wt TU36
Dark brown variegated cotton Tutti 50wt TU34 for bird legs
Light blue variegated cotton Tutti 50wt TU25 for bluebells
You don’t need to use these colours, just have a look through your thread box and see what you have.
If you switch between types of thread like I do, then you may need to keep adjusting your tension as
you sew. Some of the quilting threads I use are quite thick and I must turn my tension wheel to half of
what I normally do so that I don’t get the bottom thread coming up. Tension problems show up a lot
more when you free motion than normal sewing, so if you get loops on the bottom either your upper
tension is probably too loose or it isn’t threaded correctly. If you can see the bottom thread or your
upper thread snaps, then your upper tension is too tight. I find I can tell when my lower bobbin thread
is nearly empty as I find that I must keep upping my upper tension to match the bottom one. So be
aware!
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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Fabric: You can use any fabric you like but I would heartily recommend batiks for raw edge applique.
The thread count is higher so they stay together while you are sewing and don’t fray nearly as quickly.
I like to use hand dyed batiks with no printed pattern. They give a lovely water colour effect. I use the
Kota batiks by Moda and Sew Simple Batiks. For this embroidery, I used:
Mid beige for the bird body.
Light yellow for upright daffodil and bird wing
Cream for the leaning over daffodil
Orange for the daffodil trumpet
Light orange for the daffodil trumpet
Mid blue for the bluebells
Black for wings
Darker grass green for daffodil stems
Light grass green for daffodil stems.
Green/purple for foliage leaves
Purple for berries.
Freezer paper: Freezer paper is ideal to trace the pattern pieces and then you can iron them (warm
iron) onto your fabric and then cut them out and carefully peel away the paper.
Bottom bobbin threads: Just a note here to say that I am lazy so I only ever use either a dark
brown/grey/cream thread on my bottom bobbin. At the moment, I am using 100wt invisafil. It takes
a bit of tweaking on the tension as it tends to wind tighter than normal threads but it hardly shows at
all and a full bobbin lasts ages because it is such a fine
thread.
Free motion foot and ability to either drop or cover up
your feed dogs: Everyone’s machine is different and I’m not
going to try and explain all the different types of free motion
sewing foot. But you are going to need one. And to know
how to use it! This one is mine. I have a Pfaff Creative 2056
(which is getting on a bit.) I used to have the proper free
motion foot for it but I broke it so I am back to the darning
foot the machine came with, but to be honest it works just
as well so I haven’t bothered changing it.
Instructions
(In addition to the written instructions I also have videos on my YouTube channel. Please go to
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1RjC_f3WiZiZWhyxzCZxw or search for Raggedy Ruff Designs
on YouTube. There isn’t a specific one for this pattern but the other tutorials might be helpful.)
At the back of the instructions there are two sets of outline drawings. One is smaller than the other.
Throughout the instructions, I will be working on the smaller of the two sets. I included the larger one
as I thought it might be helpful for beginners not to have to work with quite so fiddly pieces. The larger
template is not intended to work with a mount and you will need to adjust the instructions accordingly.
Also, the larger set would be ideal for needle turn applique. I am not going to give the instructions for
needle turn applique but if you follow the same order as for the raw edge applique and remember to
add on your seam allowance you should be fine, and you could embroider the extra details by hand.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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If you have purchase the kit, then I have included enough fabric to either make either size embroidery.
Trace out the design of the daffodils, bluebells and Goldcrest with freezer paper. Mark all the design
lines on your tracing.
From your background piece cut a 9” by 7” piece as well as a 5” by 4” and 10” by 3” piece. From the
white piece cut a 10” by 2” piece, a 5” by 3” piece and a 4” by 3” piece.
Goldcrest
Stitch the 5 by 4” lilac background
piece and 5” by 3” off white piece
together with a quarter inch seam
to create a mini background as
shown.
Cut the beak and legs off your
template.
Using the freezer paper, press the
whole shape onto the right-hand
side of your light-yellow fabric
with a warm iron and cut out. Peel
the freezer paper off.
Carefully cut any yellow areas off your freezer paper template (A little patch on the top of the
head and the back wing.) Cut out this shape out of the beige fabric.
Carefully cut any of the beige areas off your freezer paper template so you are just left with
the black wing. We aren’t going to cut the black stripe at the end out of the black but
embroider it instead. Cut this wing out of the black fabric.
Cut the two leaves as one piece out of the green/purple fabric.
Cut the berries as one piece out of the purple fabric.
Position the pieces on top of your background with a piece of stabilizer underneath.
The exact positioning of the bird will depend a little on the frame and mount you are going to
use. You want to make sure that he is positioned far enough into the picture to not get his tail
cut off by the frame. I used a slightly wider mount than in the kits so my bird may be further
to the right than you might need to position yours. Do check before you sew!
Standing daffodil
With a quarter inch seam, stitch
the 10 by 3” piece of lilac and the
10” by 2” piece of off white
together down the long edge and
press.
Stitch the 5” by 3” by the long
side to the top of the lilac and off
white strip so you create a left
hand top white corner border.
Cut the whole daffodil flower
(including the trumpet) out of
light yellow using the methods
given above.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
5
Peel off the freezer paper and trim the paper down to just the trumpet and cut out the
trumpet of the darker orange.
On your leave tracing, extend the bottom edge of the daffodil leave down an extra inch or two
so you have a bit of positioning room for later. Cut the main leaves out of the darker green
fabric all as one piece. We can separate the leaves with embroidery later.
Cut the little stem to the flower head out of the light green. Cut it a little longer than you need
than you can tuck the raw edge under the other pieces.
Arrange the flower pieces on the pieced background and put a suitable sized piece of stabilizer
underneath. Check with your mount that your positioning is good.
Bluebells
You will need the 9 by 7” background piece.
We will be embroidering the bluebell stems so you just
need to cut the bluebell flowers themselves out of blue.
If they are touching, then cut them out as one piece.
Cut the whole of the daffodil flower out of the cream
and then the trumpet out of the lighter orange.
For the stem, it is best to cut out the bit of the leaves
that would go under the daffodil flower so that you
don’t have to worry too much about positioning.
Arrange your pieces, checking with your template for
the best position. I did this embroidery last so I could
check with the other completed embroideries for the
best position.
I know that all this layering can seem a little wasteful of fabric as we are making multiple layers but it
is a lot easier than trying to jigsaw the pieces of fabric back together again. And if a piece shifts a bit
when you are sewing, it won’t matter.
Starting with the Goldcrest, thread your machine with dark saddle brown (DS893 polyester). Take a
deep breath and with all the free motion settings engaged correctly on your machine, position your
needle about a millimetre from the edge of the bird’s head and start sewing. A few stitches on top of
each other fastens your end for you. Each time
you get to the end and want to cut off your
thread remember to do a few stitches to lock
the thread so it doesn’t undo. With free motion
sewing there is no need to stop and turn
around, you can sew in all directions. After a
few stitches, I find it helpful to cut off the upper
thread end so I don’t keep sewing over it. Go all
the way around the bird securing all the edges
of all the fabric pieces except the back edge of
the head. We will stitch that edge with a lighter
colour thread later. I found it easiest to go
around the outside shape first, catching down
one side of the shapes and then once the basic
shape was secure, I went back and went around
each piece individually.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
6
If you miss a bit don’t go back over what you have done, just get back into position as quickly as you
can and keep going. If you feel a bit panicky then you can always just sew up and down on the same
spot a bit or stop for a second! Don’t worry about any of the details at this stage. We just want to get
all the pieces sewn down so they don’t go astray! Once you have gone around all the shapes, go around
them again, making sure you catch down any edges that you missed the first time. When you reach
the leaves and berries, add in the individual shapes with the brown thread. Don’t worry about the
beak and legs at this stage as we will add those in later.
Change to a beige/grey (TU14) and add in some tufty
feathers to the rear. Switch to a cream thread (TU25) and
add some more feathers and then stitch up and around
the face area. You can use this thread to catch down the
raw edge of the remaining beige fabric.
Change to a variegated green (TU32) and add in the leave
veins.
Change to a yellow variegated thread (TU03) and add in
some thread work to the crown of the head, and then
draw in the feather details on the black. I found this quite
fan as they really stand out! You can also add a little
shading on the back yellow feathers as
well.
Change to a white thread and add in the
white marking along the top of the wings.
For the next
stage, I first
worked in a
dark grey
(TU40) and then sewed over the same area in a black
(KT200) to dark the stitches.
I added the dark strip above the eye, the beak and the eye
with the dark grey first. This is a little more forgiving than
sewing this straight away with black.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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Feeling a bit braver, I then did the same
stiches but in black. These are very little
birds so the eye is quite large compared to
the head and beak.
Finally, for the eye, I changed back to the white
thread (TU41) and stitched around the eye and
a little highlight in the bottom left hand corner.
With a warm brown, stitch in the stem for him
to stand on and the berry stems.
Change over to a dark brown (TU34) and stitch in his
feet.
Next we want to take the embroidery and put a piece of felt underneath (5” by 6”). We are going to
stitch around the embroidery using matching thread. So stitch around the white side with off white
thread. When you reach the join for the lilac fabric, turn around and come back, stitching a second
line. Change over to a lilac thread and do the same for the other side. Cut this shape out neatly.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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We are now going to do a similar idea for the
daffodils. With the dark brown (DS893) stitch
around the pieces. You can separate the leaves and
petals and add in the trumpet detail.
Change over to a variegated yellow (TU03) and add in
some details to the petals. With orange thread, add in
some detail to the trumpet (TU07). Finally add in
some shading to the daffodil steams with a
variegated green. (TU32)
Position the embroidery against your mount and
determine where you want the daffodil stems to
finish for the neatest finish. With a piece of felt
underneath we want to do the same as for the Goldcrest and finish the edges and cut out.
In a similar manner, sew up the bluebells and the lower daffodil. I used TU03 yellow, TU07 orange for
the daffodil. TU32 for the stems, and TU26 for the bluebell details.
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
9
Cut a piece of wadding, 8” by 6” and we are going to use this to cushion the embroidery behind the
mount. Give all your work a good press at this point so we don’t have any creases and trim any loose
ends. Position your main background with the mount, trimming the fabric if necessary. Put it into your
frame with the mount and fasten it in place. If you don’t have a frame to help keep everything in place,
you might need to use some masking tape to hold the wadding and fabric in place.
With fabric glue, glue the daffodil, Goldcrest and the little sticks in position. Stand back and admire!
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
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©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
11
©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]
12