SuperSuperSuperSuper----Cool PVC Pipe Bangle BraceletCool PVC Pipe Bangle BraceletCool PVC Pipe Bangle BraceletCool PVC Pipe Bangle Bracelet

A Free Tutorial A Free Tutorial A Free Tutorial A Free Tutorial

by Karen McGovernby Karen McGovernby Karen McGovernby Karen McGovern

Beadkeepers Art and Jewelry DesignBeadkeepers Art and Jewelry DesignBeadkeepers Art and Jewelry DesignBeadkeepers Art and Jewelry Design

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Introduction:Introduction:Introduction:Introduction:

I have to start this tutorial by thanking Robert Dancik, www.fauxbone.com, for inventing “Faux Bone”

and showing us how to use it. Faux bone is basically specially designed PVC sheet that is wonderful for

cutting, carving and creating jewelry and jewelry components. Check out Robert’s site and be prepared

to fall in love with PVC, and his amazing works.

What is PVC? Poly vinyl chloride. It’s a polymer plastic used mostly for pipes and plumbing. You can find

it at any hardware or home improvement store, it’s relatively inexpensive and comes in all sorts of

diameters, thickness and lengths. That’s about all you really need to know for this particular tutorial! So, let’s have some fun and make a bracelet, shall we?

Materials:Materials:Materials:Materials:

One length of 2.5 inch (inside diameter), schedule 40 PVC pipe fitting

Ruler

Sharpie marker

Dremel or flex shaft tool

1/16th inch drill bit

Diamond cutting wheel

Metal shears

Respirator or mask

Protective eyewear

Micro torch

Heat gun

Firing block or heat-proof surface

Flat nose pliers

Towels/pot holders

X-Acto knife

Kiwi brand shoe polish in any color you like

Sandpaper, medium to fine

Sanding sponges, medium to fine

Needle files, flat and rounded

Table top vise

Hammer

Riveting hammer

Metal hole punch

Micro rivets

Micro screws

Micro screwdriver

Metal bridge piece (brass, copper, or silver— whatever you like) approximately 3.5 inches long by .25 to

.50 inches wide. 24 gauge works well.

Assorted beads, washers and design elements for embellishment

Before you begin, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WBefore you begin, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WBefore you begin, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WBefore you begin, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WORKING IN A WELLORKING IN A WELLORKING IN A WELLORKING IN A WELL----LIT, WELLLIT, WELLLIT, WELLLIT, WELL----VENTILATED AREA!VENTILATED AREA!VENTILATED AREA!VENTILATED AREA!

Step 1: Step 1: Step 1: Step 1: Make sure your PVC pipe is relatively clean and free of

major dings or imprints. We’ll be doing a great deal of sanding,

so it doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect. Using a ruler, measure in one half inch from the outside edge. Rotate the

pipe, marking carefully with a Sharpie marker. I make a series

of dots close together and then connect them. This will be your

cutting line to make the basic bangle. Note: This PVC fitting

comes in a pre-cut size of about 3 to 4 inches.

NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN CUTTING MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN CUTTING MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN CUTTING MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN CUTTING MAKE SURE YOU ARE

WEARING PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR AND A MASK OR WEARING PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR AND A MASK OR WEARING PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR AND A MASK OR WEARING PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR AND A MASK OR RESPIRATOR! RESPIRATOR! RESPIRATOR! RESPIRATOR!

Cutting PVC with a Dremel is messy! You will be creating a ton

of dust, so be prepared and protect yourself.

Step 2:Step 2:Step 2:Step 2: Using the diamond cutting disc on your

Dremel or flex shaft, begin by lightly scoring along

your cutting line. Do your best to create a continuous,

shallow cut completely around the pipe. Then, simply

follow your cut, pressing a bit more each time as you

rotate, until you cut completely through the PVC pipe.

You will be creating a lot of dust and PVC particles.

Simply wipe them away as you go. PVC heats and

melts relatively easily, so don’t be in a hurry here.

Slow and steady will keep the pipe and plastic from

over heating and melting.

The resulting ½ inch PVC ring is the beginnings of your bracelet!

Step 3Step 3Step 3Step 3: : : : Lay out a piece of medium grit all-purpose sandpaper.

Place the PVC cut-side down on the sandpaper and begin

moving in a circular motion with light pressure. Gradually

increase pressure and sand the cut side smooth. Remove any

particles with your hands or a towel. Continue sanding and smoothing until completely even and blemish-free. Bevel the

edge by tilting the PVC as you sand. Finish with finer sandpaper

and needle files as needed to complete the process. Make sure

both sides are sanded smooth, with rounded edges. Sanding

sponges are great for sanding the inside edges, etc.

Step 4Step 4Step 4Step 4: : : : Once the ring of PVC is smooth and ready, you

need to cut it so we can expand the ring to make the proper size bangle. Make a cut line with your Sharpie,

and then carefully score and cut with the diamond

wheel. Sand these edges as well, holding the bangle

open with one hand while you sand with the other.

Step 5:Step 5:Step 5:Step 5: Now the real fun begins—we play with FIRE!

Place the cut PVC ring on a fire block or other fire-

proof surface. Make sure you are in a ventilated area

or have an exhaust fan running. When heated, PVC

can create fumes. We are not heating it to melting, so

there should be little to no odor or fumes. BUT, always wear a mask and work with ventilation! Have

your flat nose pliers handy to hold/move the PVC as

you heat it. The goal here is to create the ancient

appearance of old, burned bone. Start heating the

edges of the ring, holding your torch 4 to 5 inches

away from the PVC keeping your flame medium. You

will see color right away. PVC will deform if you over

heat, so be careful! Move your flame close and pull

back when color appears. I like the look of burned

edges, and try to leave the main body of the bangle ivory in color. You will see the white turn ivory as

soon as you heat the PVC. Have fun here; go as light or dark as you wish. Turn the ring with your pliers

(NOT YOUR HANDS) to create an overall uniform look. Flip and repeat on the other side. If the PVC

begins to shrink, move or deform, don’t worry, just back off the flame. The bangle will soften in the

heat. We will take care of the shape in the next step.

Step 6:Step 6:Step 6:Step 6: Once you have burned to your

heart’s content, turn off your torch and grab

the leftover PVC pipe you cut from. While

the PVC bangle is still hot/warm and soft, pick

it up with a towel and fit it over the PVC

“Mother” pipe. Wrap everything up and roll

the bangle on your work surface (like a rolling

pin) to conform and shape it round. This also

stretches the bangle to the correct size, leaving a gap we will bridge with a metal accent.

Check the bangle; make sure it is round and

level. If needed, gently re-heat with a heat

gun, wrap and roll again until your bangle is

level and round. Let the bangle cool

completely on the Mother PVC. Sometimes a

vice comes in handy here, you can squeeze the bangle into proper shape and hold in place while it cools.

When it cools, it will be stiff and firm again. When the bangle is cool, check it for size. It should fit nicely over your wrist with little effort. To change the size as needed, you will have to re-heat with a heat gun

and hand-form the bangle smaller or larger.

Step 7Step 7Step 7Step 7:::: Build a bridge. At this point we build a bridge to close the gap in the bangle. Choose your metal,

cut to fit the bridge with at least .25 to .50 inches overlap on each side of the gap. You can make your

bridge the same width as the bangle, slightly larger, or slightly smaller. Get creative with texture and size.

Etched metals are great, or treat with patina and heat. The possibilities are endless! For this tutorial I

chose a textured length of nickel silver the same width as the bangle. Cut, file and smooth the edges and

sides of your bridge, leaving no sharp edges or corners. Shape the bridge with your hands into a curve

and check the fit on your bangle.

Step 8:Step 8:Step 8:Step 8: Next we need to prepare the bridge for attachment to the bangle. Turn the metal over and make

a Sharpie mark in the center of either end. Using your metal punch and hammer, make a divot on each

mark for your drill bit to grab. Using a 1/16 drill bit, drill the two holes, or use a hand-held metal hole

punch as pictured here. File away any burs or metal bits that might get in the way, leaving the surface

and holes smooth and snag-free. Finish by shaping the metal into a gentle curve that fits the bangle flush.

Step 9: Step 9: Step 9: Step 9: Prepare the bangle for the bridge attachment. Place the bridge on the bangle and hold in place. Use a fine point sharpie marker to make a dot through the metal holes onto the bangle where you plan to

attach the bridge. Remove the bridge and drill a hole through the bangle using a 1/16 drill bit. Don’t drill

the other side yet! Start with one end and attach your metal before moving on to the other—less

opportunity for mistakes.

Step 10: Step 10: Step 10: Step 10: Attach the bridge. You have a couple of choices here. You can use rivets or micro screws to

attach the metal to the bangle. I like brass and steel tube rivets from Objects and Elements. They are

quick, relatively easy, and subtle. I use micro screws quite often for a more industrial look. For this

tutorial I used medium length steel tube rivets. Remove the bangle from the Mother PVC. Insert the rivet

from the back of the bangle out the front. Hold the rivet in place with your fingers, and lay the metal bridge on top. You want less than 2mm of rivet exposed above the metal. If your PVC is too thick, file

away some of the back right over the hole, thinning that area till the rivet sits well. Once your rivet is set,

place the bangle back on the Mother PVC, and use your metal punch and a hammer to flare the rivet end.

Gently hammer the flare with a rivet hammer until the rivet is snug and in place. (NOTE: For more

information on setting rivets visit Objects and Elements, www.objectsandelements.com, and Youtube.

Just put “tube riveting” in the search box). Once you have one side of the bridge set and riveted, repeat

the process on the other end, making sure to center your metal evenly. Check for fit. If you are way off

you can always drill out your rivet and start again with cutting or re-shaping as needed. PVC is very forgiving. Viola! You have created the basic bangle!! Now we have even more fun as we move on to….

Step 11:Step 11:Step 11:Step 11: Color and detailColor and detailColor and detailColor and detail!!!! Here is where your imagination is your guide. I love the look of ancient art

and jewelry, so I enjoy creating the look of time. Bone is often scarred, marked and carved by the maker.

Scrimshaw is an ancient art form involving detailed drawings etched on to bone, then colored with inks

and dye. I make my own version using an X-Acto knife and shoe polish. For me, this is a free-form

process. I simply go for it with the knife blade, lightly scoring the surface of the PVC. You don’t have to

push very hard at all. Then, simply load your finger or a cloth with the shoe polish color of your choice

and smear it across the surface you just marked. The polish fills the cuts and voids instantly and your

design comes to life. Simply rub the polish in, and wipe off the excess. If you prefer, you can draw a

design in Sharpie first, but it’s hard to remove the Sharpie marks without sanding, which may affect the designs you already have going. I like to “wing” it and see what happens. Kiwi brand shoe polish is

amazing. It’s in block form in round tins, easy to store, lasts forever (as long as you close the tins

properly) and comes in many colors. For this tutorial I used a deep purple color. You can also use oil

pastels and paints, but they tend to flake more than the polish and are harder to control. When you have

cut, scored and colored to your heart’s content, give the entire bangle a quick buff with a clean, dry cloth

and you are finished with the etching process!

For the final step we add embellishments. I like to center something on the metal bridge. For this tutorial

I used a stack of interesting bits—an antique Chinese coin colored blue and green with age, layered under

an enamel covered copper cup in shades of lavender and purple, topped with a pewter ammonite bead.

The stack is held in place with a steel micro screw and nut. I simply drilled a 1/16 hole in the center of the

metal bridge, then threaded the screw in from the back, added the stack, attached the nut, cut the excess

screw and filed the end flush with the nut. Make sure your screw and nut are very tight. I hold the nut

with my flat nose pliers while turning the screw using a micro screwdriver. I also add a drop of super glue

to the end of the nut, just to be sure everything holds tight.

Here is the finished bracelet, along with another I made using the same technique, but with an etched

copper bridge with copper disc and lampwork glass bead and brown polish.

Design Suggestions:Design Suggestions:Design Suggestions:Design Suggestions: This is such a great bracelet to make, with endless design possibilities. Have fun with

color. Shoe polishes come in amazing colors, so don’t be afraid to explore filling your etch marks with

vibrant colors. How about inlay? You can cut deeper grooves into the PVC, then fill with polymer clay

and bake. You can easily add hinges to this bracelet design to make a bangle that opens and closes. Your embellishments can be anything you imagine! Consider feathers, ribbons, leather, fur, beads and more. I

love to make stacks, so pile it all on and see what happens.

I’d love to see what you create. If you give this bracelet a try, please email me photos of your finished

designs!! You can reach me at karenamcgovern@gmail.comkarenamcgovern@gmail.comkarenamcgovern@gmail.comkarenamcgovern@gmail.com

I hope you enjoy working with unusual materials like PVC. Thanks for playing along with me!

Cheers,

Karen

Material Sources:

PVC pipe – hardware and home improvement stores

Micro torch, rivets, screws, metals and more – Objects and Elements, www.objectsandelements.com

Tools of all sorts – Cool Tools, www.cooltools.us, Objects and Elements, www.objectsandelements.com Shoe polish – grocery stores