ContentsIntroductionIngredientSourcingTheVeganPantryTheWell-EquippedVeganKitchenChapter1Morning

DarjeelingHimalayanRailwayChaiTeaVeganMaryBreakfastFriesMultigrainKutiawithAlmonds,Cherries,andChocolateSavoryBreakfastTartsTwenty-One-HourBouleFrenchToastwithCardamomPearCompoteBreakfastStrata

Chapter2AfternoonLavenderLemonadeShandyGingerBeerDukkahwithRusticBreadMuhammaraHummuswithTahiniThreeSalsaswithHomemadeTortillaChipsCevichedeVeganJicamaSaladFavaBeanSaladTofuCapreseStackRoastedPepperInvoltiniSummerRollswithTwoDippingSaucesBakedRatatouilleinPhylloGarbanzoBeanandTomatoSoup

BroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushroomsSweetCremawithBerriesandChambordOrangeandSaffronPaletasGingerPoundCakewithMatchaGlazePistachioOliveOilCake

Chapter3EveningBloodOrangeMargaritaMexicanWhiteRussianGarbanzoBeanSoccaParchmentFlatbreadCrackers(No)CheesePlateGrilledTofuGrapeLeavesYubaSpringRollsTomatoandThree-BeanSaladMoroccanOrangeSaladBrusselsSproutSlawLapsangSouchongRiceNuttyMushroomRisottoPolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigsCeleryRootandFennelChowderConfusedArtichokeSoupRoastedBrownBagVegetablesPotatoTortePoblanoChilesRellenosEggplantParma-StyleZucchiniLasagnawithPestoSearedTofuwithDateBarbecueSauceBlueberryandEarlGreySorbetEspressoGelatoBasmatiRicePudding

Chapter4LateNightRosewaterHotChocolateLemonVerbenaBellini

Lavender-TangerineMartiniCurriedChickpeaSnackSpicedNutsVeganTapasPlateVanillaCoconutFlanTea-PoachedPearsinCaramelSauceChocolate-TahiniTimbalesPiñonTart

Chapter5VeryLateNightLimoncelloShisoLeafMartiniHazelnutHalvahDateswithCoffeeCremaMaple-ChipotlePecanPopcornChocolateTrufflesChocolateSeaSaltTartCharosetTart

ResourcesIndexTableofEquivalents

AcknowledgmentsNotasinglepageofthisbookwouldhavebeenpossiblewithoutthehelp,guidance,andsupportofsomanypeople,andeverypagebearstheirimprint.Themostsignificantimprintbelongstomypartnerandmuse,BruceSchwartz,anditpermeateseveryaspectofthisbook,whichhebelievedinevenbeforeIdid.Hisabundantloveandencouragementhelpedmetoenjoythesuccessesandgetmethroughthemishapsandbadideasthatgottossedout.HiskeenintuitionandjudgmentbecamemylitmustestwheneverIneededapersonalarbitratorofstyle,tone,orsimplyakitsch-alert.IwouldalsoberemissifIdidn’tmentionthenever-endingsinkofdishesheconstantlycleaned;onlyteasingthathewantedmetogivehimhonorablementionforit.

ManyeventsledmetowritingthiscookbookandoneofthemostinfluentialwashavingmetSusanCampoy.SuewastheownerofJulienne,thefamedrestaurantinSanMarino,a‘burbofLosAngeles.WeworkedtogethercloselyfortwoyearstoproduceherCookingwithJuliennebook.Sueshowedmehowtobefearlessandnotstopatanythingtogetthingsjustright.

Earlyon,whenthisbookwasjustanunpolishedidea,KirstenMuensterandJosephTernesheapedontheencouragementandexcitementIneededtoproposethistoChronicle,andthatisthebestkindofsupportonecouldreceivefromfriends.

WhileonthesubjectofChronicleBooks,youwouldn’tbereadingthisifeditorialdirectorBillLeBlondhadn’tbelievedinmeandguidedthisprojecttofruition.Fromthere,mypatienteditorSarahBillingsleycheerfullysiftedmyprose.Oureasybackandforthwasoneofthegreatpleasuresofwritingthisbook.

Ialsooweabigthankyoutomycreativecrew,lovinglyreferredtoas“TeamVegan.”First,EmilySandor,whooriginallyintroducedmetoSueCampoyandwhoalsoinspiredmetobeginphotographingfoodmyself.Shehasbeenagreatteacherandphotopartner.Therestofmystylingteamwasequallyfantastic:BasilFriedman(food)andDaniFisher(props)arethefoodequivalentofacelebrity’sposse.Theymadeallthedishescamera-readyfortheirclose-upsandwereajoytoworkwith.AssistingalloureffortswereDavidKiang,photoanddigitaltechnician;JohnGalanga,foodstyling;andBellaFoster,prop

anddigitaltechnician;JohnGalanga,foodstyling;andBellaFoster,propstyling.

EarlyonwhenIwasenvisioningtherecipes,IturnedtoChristineMoore,ownerofLittleFlowerCandyCo.andherpastrychefHarrietHanHayesforguidancewithveganbaking.Theygraciouslywelcomedmeintothecafé’skitchentohelpme“veganize”afewofmyideas.ThePistachioOliveOilCakeandChocolate-TahiniTimbaleswereproductsofourlatenightstogether.IconsiderLittleFlowermysatelliteofficeandhaveheldcountlessbusinessmeetingstherewhenmykitchenwastoofullofdishes.(AndthankyouChristine,Harriet,andRobertforyour80-proofcoffee!)

Creativeveganbreakfastrecipesarechallenginginmyopinion,butwiththehelpofChefNickCoe’sKutyarecipe,mymorningsaremuchmoreexciting.WhenIheardthatthisEasternEuropeandishwasbeingservedathisBlackCatBakeryinLosAngeles,IaskedNickfortherecipe,whichhegraciouslyshared.

Oncetherecipeswerewritten,Idependedonthefeedbackfromanamazinggroupofhomerecipetesters.Thesehomecookswereanamalgamationoffriends,friendsoffriends,andafewFacebookacquaintances.ThankyouJamesAarons,BobBradyandKentKirkpatrick,CynthiaCampoy-Brophy,JennieCook,ReedDavis,MerionEstes,AshleyGish,MeganHobzaandtheVeganistascollective,CourtneyHopkins,GaryJackemuk,KarenKlemens,ErikKnudsenandKellyCoyne,TawniaLitwin,StephenRudicelandGloriaPutnam,AnneSchick,HeidiSpiegal,NancySutor,JudithTeitelmanandAaronPaley,andMicheleZack.Manyofthetestersresideindifferentcitiesandourrelationshipswerestrictlyviaemailandphotos.MyhighschoolfriendHeidieventestedrecipesfromThionville,France,regalingmewithstoriesofhowshehadtohuntdownmanyoftheingredients.MybestbuddiesBobandKentwentasfarastoshootavideooftheirdinnerpartyinNewMexicocomprisedexclusivelyofPureVeganrecipestheyweretesting(showoffs…).Manyofthetesterswerevegans,andmanywerenot.Regardless,themostfrequentresponsefromtheirexperiencewas“Iservedthistoguestsandtheyhadnoideaitwasvegan.”ThatwasthebestfeedbackIcouldhaveheard.

IngredientsourcingwasoneoftheimportantcomponentsincreatingtherecipesandIwanttothankafewofthedistributorsandproducersforsupplyingingredientsduringthemanydaysofrecipedevelopmentandphotoshoots:Melissa’sProduce,EarthBalance,ChadoTeas,andGreenBarCollective.

Manyofthephotographsinthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithout

ManyofthephotographsinthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutthewarmgenerosityofGloriaPutnamandStephenRudicelforallowingusintotheirhome,andhistoricalmonument,theZaneGreyEstate;GretaDunlap,theSouthPasadenaFarmers’Marketmanagerforlettingusrunrampantthroughthemarketaimingourlensanywherewewanted;theVartanfamilyandtheirspice-filledMiddleEasternemporium,VartansFamilyGroceries;andalsothefecundityofrareandhardtofindmushroomsondisplayatDirkHerman’sLAFungHiweeklymarketbooth.(Mushroomsarethevegan’scaviar!)

IalsowanttothankBlakeLittleformyauthor’sportrait,LeslieAikenforheremergencymanuscriptdoctoring,andallofyouwhohavebeenfollowingtheprogressofPureVeganasitwasbeingcreated.

Myhopeisthatthisisonlythebeginningandthateveryonewhohelpedwiththisbookwillcomealongforthenextadventure.Pleaseacceptmyheartfeltgratitude,oneandall.

IntroductionAreyourelaxedandsittingdown?Ifnot,turntotherecipeforVeganMaryandprepareyourselfabatch.Whenyougetback,weshouldhavealittlechat.

First,letmetellyouwhatthisbookisnot.PureVeganisnotaboutpoliticsoranykindofspiritualdoctrine.Myintentionsinwritingthisbookarenottodebatethevirtuesofonebeliefsystemoveranother,nortopromotethehealthbenefitsofeatingaplant-baseddiet.Asidefromhavinglittleinterestinthesedebates,I’mnotqualifiedtotakeupapairofboxingglovesintheirdefense.

Makingmyownday-to-daychoicesaboutwhattoeatandwhatnottoeatiscomplicatedenoughwithouttryingtotellyouwhatyoushouldandshouldn’teat.Andthat,myfriend,iswhatthisbookisabout:makingchoicesthatfeelnaturalandrighttoyou;tosowafewseedsinthebackofyourmindandhelpyoucultivateyourownplant-basedculinaryrepertoire.Nomatterwhatdietaryphilosophyyoufollow,myhopeisthatreadingandcookingfromthiscompendiumofrecipeswillinspireyoutolookathowyoueatinanewway,sharpenyoursenseofrelationshiptotheingredientsyouencounter,and,aboveall,alwaysdemandmorefromthefoodyoueat—morevariety,moreflavor,moreintensity.

OPENALLNIGHTInorganizingtherecipesinthisbook,Iknewfromthestartthatdividing

dishesintotheusualcategories—appetizers,soups,salads,maincourses,andsoon—wouldboremetodeath.Idon’tknowaboutyou,butIeatconstantly,frommorningtonight.Infact,I’vebeenridiculedmorethanoncefordiscussingtomorrow’sbreakfastasIprepareforbed.

Thatgotmethinkingaboutmypreoccupationwitheatingandaboutwhatanimportantrolefoodplaysthroughoutmyentireday,andthisledmetoorganizethechaptersbytimeofdayratherthanbytypeofdish.Imadesuretoincludesomelate-night(andverylate-night)recipesforyounightowlsouttherewhostillcravealittlesomethingintheweehours.

Alltoooften,eatingaplant-baseddietcanseemsynonymouswithself-deprivationandgetinthewayoflate-nightsnackingdesires.InPureVegan,

deprivationandgetinthewayoflate-nightsnackingdesires.InPureVegan,I’veattemptedtoliberatethosedesireswithplentyofdeliciousoptionsforimpulsive,decadentdiningatunusualhours—andperhapsunusualcircumstances.Thatsaid,someoftherecipesrequireabitofforethought,soIsuggestyouplanaheadandprepareinadvanceasneeded.

PUREVERSUSPURITANICALInsteadoffocusingonthefoodseschewedinvegancookery,myguidingprinciplehasbeentohighlightandcelebrateingredientsthatareinherentlyvegan.Also,you’llnoticethatsomeoftherecipescallforrefinedproducts(suchaswhiteflour),processedingredients(likesoymargarine),and,asyouobservedifyouturnedtotheVeganMaryearlier,alcohol.

I’mnotatallshyaboutbeingahedonist,whichexplainsallthedessertandcocktailrecipes,aswellastheinclusionofafewingredientsthatmayborderontheindulgent.Afterall,thetitleofthisbookisPureVegan,notPuritanicalVegan.Itismypersonalphilosophythatcertainguiltypleasures,likesweetsandbadTV,keepusevolvingwhenweindulgeintheminmoderation.(Besides,vodkaisvegan.)Ifsomeoftheseingredientsoffendyoursensibilities,youcaneasilymodifytherecipes.Substitutingwhole-wheatflourforwhiteflourisano-brainer,thoughyoushouldexpectbakedgoodstobeheavieranddenser.Likewise,youcansubstituteablandvegetableoil,suchascanolaforveganshortening,butyouwillsacrificesomeflakinessinthefinaltexture.Andwhenitcomestococktails,youcaneasily“virginize”someoftherecipesbysimplyomittingthealcohol.

EXOTICINGREDIENTSSomeoftherecipesandingredientsI’vepresentedheremaybenewtoyou,butI’mconfidentyou’llbecuriousenoughtotakethemforatest-drive.NowthattheInternetiseveryone’spermanenthouseguest,huntingandforagingformostoftheunusualitemsIcallforisaseasyaslookingattheWebsitesintheResourcessectionandclicking“AddtoCart.”

IgrewupandcontinuetoliveinLosAngeles,acitywheremanyethnicgroupshavesettled,sometimesinnumberssogreatthattheyapproachthetotalpopulationoftheirnativecountries.Livingherehasundoubtedlyshapedmyeatinghabitsandgivenmeacuriosityaboutexoticingredients.I’mdrawntocuisinesthatembracevegetablesandfeaturedishesaugmentedbydeepspiceblendsthatelevatetheirflavorandcomplexity.Asian,Indian,andMiddle

blendsthatelevatetheirflavorandcomplexity.Asian,Indian,andMiddleEasterncuisinesinparticularholdaspecialplaceinmyculinaryrepertoireduenotonlytotheirreverentappreciationofingredientsbutalsotomyadventurousculinaryupbringing.

Forthoseofyouwithouteasyaccesstosomeoftheseethniccommunitiesandtheirmarkets,theResourcessectionincludesonlinegrocersthatstockeverythingyou’llneed.YoucanalsosubstitutemorecommoningredientsformanyofthemoreunusualediblesIcallfor,butIsuggestthatyoutryanygivenrecipewiththespecifiedingredientsthefirsttime.Ifnothingelse,decidingontherightingredientstosubstitutewillbeeasierifyoudo.

MAKINGTHECUTWhilewe’reonthesubjectoffollowingrecipes,you’llfindthatsometimestheinstructionsarequiteprecise.Forinstance,you’llnoticethatI’moftenspecificabouthowthickorthinvegetablesandfruitsshouldbecut.Thisisn’tjustabouthowthingslookontheplate;italsohasanimpactonhowtheycook.Ifingredientsareallcutthesamesize,they’llcookevenly.Furthermore,thecutofaningredientchangesthewayitiscoatedbyasauceordressing;forexample,thethinnertheslice,themoresurfacethereistobecoatedwithflavor.

Iregretlearningknifeskillslateinlife.Ihighlyencourageyoutolearnthisartbyrentingavideoortakingaworkshopatyourlocalkitchen-supplyshop.Itwilladdanotherdimensiontoyourrelationshipwithyouringredients.Ialsoencourageyoutomakeaninvestmentingood-qualitykitchenequipmentifyouhaven’talready.I’mnotsayingthatyouneedeverygadgetintheworld.Infact,mostoftherecipesinthisbookdon’trequirespecializedtools.Butasmyfather-in-lawlikedtosay,“It’simportanttousetherighttoolfortherightjob.”SeeTheWell-EquippedVeganKitchenforalistofusefulkitchentoolsandcookware.

IngredientSourcingInadditiontosteeringourpalatestowardaplant-baseddiet,Ifeelstronglythatwehaveadutytopaycloseattentiontotheintegrityoftheingredientsinvolved.Theoriginsofthefoodsweeatcarriesasmuchweightaswhatweeat.Whileyoumightthinkofthisassomethingsimplyvirtuous—forexample,choosinglocalfoodstoloweryourcarbonfootprint—I’vefoundthatdiggingmoredeeplyintothetruesourcesofingredientscanbeoneofthegreatestpleasuresthereis.

Aplant-baseddietissimplythat:eatingplants.Giventhattheysustainyou,whynotbuildacommitted,lovingrelationshipwiththem?Asanyrelationshipcounselorwilltellyou,thereinliesthecrux.Showtheplantsyoueatsomerespect.Gettoknoweverythingaboutthem:askthemwherethey’refrom,whattheirchildhoodwaslike,andwhotheirfriendsare.

Noonecandenythatthere’sahugedifferencebetweeneatingazucchinithat’sjustbeenpulledoffitsvineandeatingonethatwasharvestedweeksago,truckedtoonedistributioncenterafteranotheronitswaytoachain“übermarket,”thenwrappedinplasticandsoldonaplastictrayforyourconvenience.Onetasteslikeazucchini,fullofsunandearth,theothertastesonlyslightlybetterthantheplastictray.Giventhechoice,it’sobviousthatwe’dallprefertherealzucchini,butconveniencecanbeaseductivetrickster.

Growingyourownvegetables,purchasingthemdirectlyfromlocalfarmsorfarmers’market,orotherwisecreatingamoredirectconnectiontoyourfoodmayseemlikeanoverwhelmingproposition.ButI’mheretotellyouit’snotsuchabigdeal.Infact,Ihaveafood-sourcingpyramidguidethatwilladdressanyanxietyyoumightfeelwhenyouthinkabouthavingtomakemoreconsciouschoicesaboutingredientprocurement.

Atthebottomofthepyramidisafoundationoforganicfoods.Thereisnoreasonwhymostoftheingredientsyouusecannotbeorganic.Inthepast,perhapsyoucouldhavecomplainedaboutorganicfoodbeingtooexpensiveorhardtofind,butthat’shistory.Asrecentlyas2000,Iwasonaplaneandreceivedthe“veggieplate”I’drequested.MyseatmateturnedtomeandaskedifIwasahealthnut.We’vecomealongwaysincethen.Today,organicisnolongerjustfornutcases;it’samultibillion-dollarcommercialindustry.

ThebottomofthepyramidincludesthoseübermarketsIchastisedearlier,wheremostpeoplebuytheirfood—andwhereconveniencesooftentrumpsquality.Inthepast,itmayhavehadasmall,patheticorganicproducesectionneartheemployee’sentrance.Thoughpaltry,itwasastart.Ifthisdescribesyourmarkettoday(orifyourmarkethasnoorganicproducts),Isuggestyoushopsomewhereelseorinitiateadialoguewithyourgrocer,becausethemorewedemandorganicfood,themoreinexpensiveandreadilyavailableitwillbecome.

Andthenthere’stheInternet,whereyoucanfindanythingyourheartdesiresinsecondsorless.Thereisnothingquiteliketheimmediategratificationofcyberforaging(thoughofcourseyouwillhavetowaitforyourgoodstobeshippedtoyou).Onecouldquibbleaboutthecarbonfootprintofpurchasingitemsonlinethatneedtobeshipped,butalsoconsiderthegrowingnumberofonlinebusinessestryingtomakeadifferencebysellingregionalproductsproducedusingethicallyandenvironmentallysoundmethods.Notallofusliveinmetropolitancommunities,wherethereiseasyaccesstohealthfulorunusualingredients,butthat’snolongeragoodexcuse.

Fromthatfoundation,let’stakeajourneytowardincreasinglyhealthierandmoremeaningfulfood.Steppingupthepyramid,wearriveatfarmers’markets.Ifyou’reimaginingthose“quaint”littleshackswithhand-paintedsignsthatyou’veseenonroadtrips,thinkagain.Today’sfarmers’marketsareapracticalsourceforawidevarietyoffresh,localfoods.Almosteverycityhasone,ifnotmorethanone,andmanysmallertownshavefarmers’marketsaswell.

Theideabehindthesemarketsissimple:farmers,andsmallfarmersinparticular,canselldirectlytocustomersatfullretailprice,withoutmiddlemenorübermarketstakingapercentage.What’smore,farmers’marketsgiveyouachancetospeakdirectlytothepersonwhogrewthefood,notjustaproduceclerkwhostackstheapples.Askthefarmerquestionsaboutwhattheygrow,andusewhatyoulearntoguideyourchoices.Whenwasthatzucchiniharvested?Whatisitstruegrowingseason?Isitorganic?Andifitisn’torganic,askwhy.Iguaranteeyouwillbeginanewrelationshipwithyouringredientsbygettingtoknowthepeoplewhogrowthem.

Nowwe’regoingtoclimbalittlefartherupthepyramid.Butasyou’vegottenusedtoaskingsomequestionsaboutyourzucchini,maybeyoufindyourselfinterestedinseeingitsbirthplaceandtouchingtheearthitgrewin—maybeevenpickingityourself.That’softenexactlywhatyoucandoifyoupurchaseashareinacommunity-supportedagriculture(CSA)enterprise.Atthe

purchaseashareinacommunity-supportedagriculture(CSA)enterprise.Atthenextlevelofthepyramid,CSAsenableafarmtoreceivemostofitsoperatingexpensesupfrontfrompeopleinthesamecommunityorregion.Youpurchaseashareofwhatthefarmwillproduceintheupcomingseason,andinreturnyougetaselectionoffresh,in-seasonproducedirectlyfromthefarmatregularintervals.Itmaybedeliveredordistributedatacentrallocation,oryoumaypickupyourshareatthefarm,finallygivingyouthatchancetoseewherethatzucchinigrew.

There’syetonemorelevelabovebuyingyourproducedirectlyfromthefarmthatgrewit.Thenextstepinincreasingthepleasureofeatingistogrowsomeofyourfoodyourself—tobecomethefarmer.Iknowit’sbeenalongtimesinceyousproutedthatlimabeaninfirstgrade,butitwillallcomebacktoyou.Besides,“backtotheland”isbackwithavengeance.Frontlawnseverywherearebeingreplacedwithediblegardens.

Evenifyouaren’treadytomakethatleap,youcanstilldosomethingonasmallscale.Evenjustgrowingtomatoesinapotonyourbalconyqualifiesyouasanurbanfarmer,andintheprocessyou’lllearnsomeimportantlessonsaboutwhatittakestogrowsomethingfromscratch.

Whereveryoufallonthispyramid,Ihopeyouseeitasajourney—andanexcitingexploration.Andanytimeyougatheringredientstopreparearecipeinthisbook,Ihopeyou’llconsidermakingthatexplorationpartofyoureatingenjoyment.You’llfindthatmakingwell-informedchoicesaddsnewdimensionsanddepthtothepleasuresofcookingandeating.

TheVeganPantryWhetheryou’restockingyourveganpantryfromscratchorsimplywanttosupplementyourexistinglarder,here’saquick-startguide.It’snotcompletebyanymeans,butI’veattemptedtocoverthebasics.I’vealsoincludedinformationaboutsomeofthemoreunusualingredientsandwhattolookforwhenyoupurchasethem.

ALCOHOLMyhedonistnaturealwayssteersmetothebest-qualityalcohol.Manylargecommercialproducersmakeexcellentlibations,butwiththeriseoflocal,small-batchproducers,Irecommendgoingartisanal.MoreandmoreregionsacrosstheUnitedStatesarebecomingknownfortheirwines,andmanywineriesaren’tshyaboutpromotingthefactthattheirgrapesaregrownorganically(orevenusingthebeyond-organicmethodsknownasbiodynamic).Spoileralert:Aswithcanesugar,duringthefilteringprocessanimalproductscanfindtheirwayintosomealcoholproducts,particularlywines.Barnivore.comisagoodsourceforfindingoutwhichbrandsareveganfriendly.

CHOCOLATEEveryoneseemstohaveafavoritebrandortypeofchocolate,soit’sonlyfairthatIgettotalkaboutmypersonalfavorite:bittersweet.It’sdarkandjustthissideofbitter,andIfeelIcantastethechocolatemorethanthesugar.Whetheryoueatitasisoruseitindesserts,chocolatereallyneedsonlytwoingredients:cacaoandsugar.Thepercentageofcacaoisalsouptoyou,butmakesureit’satleast65%cacao.Doreadthelabeltomakesureit’svegan,becauseotheringredientsandadditivesareoftenused.IrecentlydiscoveredChocoVivo,asmall,artisanalcompanythatmakes65%,75%,85%,andeven100%organiccacaobakingchocolateonastonegrinder.I’mworkingmywayupthecacaopercentageladder!

COCOAPOWDERAvailableeitherasDutch-processedornatural,cocoapowderaddsanintensitytorecipeswhencombinedwithdarkorbittersweetchocolate.Dutch-processed

torecipeswhencombinedwithdarkorbittersweetchocolate.Dutch-processedcocoaisdarkerandhasanice,palatableflavor.Itisalsousedwhenarecipecallsforbakingpowder,duetoitsalkalinenature.NaturalcocoaismorebitterthenDutch-processed.It’smoreacidic,andwhencombinedwithbakingsoda,itcreatesbeautifulleavenedbakedgoods.MostoftherecipesinthisbookcallforDutch-processedcocoapowderforitssmoothflavor,thoughitwouldbefinetosubstitutenaturalcocoa,sincenoneofthoserecipescontainbakingsoda.

COOKINGSPRAYSIadmitthatit’seasytogreaseapanwithoilorshorteningbyhand,butcertainthingsappealtomylazyside,andcookingspraysareoneofthem.They’reavailableinavarietyofplainhealthfuloilspraysfromcommercialconglomeratessuchasPillsbury,aswellasnaturalfoodsgentlegiantslikeSpectrum.Thegatewayproductthatturnedmewasbakingoilspraywithflour,whichcoatspanswithoilandflourallatonce.BasilFriedman,thefoodstylistwhoworkedonthisbook,wasmypusher.WhenIreadthelabelsontheseproducts,theydidn’tseemasscaryasIhadexpected:justoil,lecithin,andflour.Feelfreetousetheplainoilsprayswhenarecipecallsforgreasingapan,andbakingsprayoilwithflourforrecipesthatcallforgreasingandflouringapan.IhaveneverhadanythingsticksinceIstartedusingthem.Endofdiscussion.

DRIEDFRUITDriedfruitisagreatstapletohaveonhand,especiallyduringthemonthswhencertainfruitsaren’tavailable.Apricots,figs,anddatesareallgreatwhenyou’recravingsomethingsweet.Sometimessulfurdioxideisadded,solelyforvisualreasons.Lookforpure,unsulfuredproducts.

FATSANDOILS

CANOLAOIL

Madefromrapeseed,theseedofahybridizedversionofthefieldmustardplant(or,morespecificallyBrassicarapa),refinedcanolaoilhasamuchhighersmokepointthanoliveoil.Inotherwords,youcanheatittoahighertemperature(450°F)withoutdamagingtheoilorhavinganegativeimpactonitsflavor(nottomentionavoidingsettingoffyoursmokealarm).Canolaisalsoconsideredaneutral-flavoredormoreblandcookingoil,whichishelpfulwhenyoudon’t

neutral-flavoredormoreblandcookingoil,whichishelpfulwhenyoudon’twantthecookingoiltoimpartitsownflavortoadish.Foroptimumnutrition,chooseunrefinedorcold-pressedvarieties,inwhichtheseedsarenotheatedbefore,during,orafterprocessing.Justtakeintoconsiderationthesehavealowersmokepointthanrefined.

OLIVEOIL

Anytimeyoucookwitholiveoil,Irecommendthatyouuseextra-virginoliveoil(organicwheneverpossible).Extra-virginreferstothefirst,or“virgin,”pressingoffreshlyharvestedolives.Itiswidelyavailableandnottoospendy,sothere’sreallynoreasontouseanythingelse.Alwayspurchaseoliveoilindarkglassbottlessinceit’ssensitivetolightandcanquicklybecomerancid.It’salsosensitivetoheat,sohere’satip:fillasmallbottlewithenougholiveoilforafewdays’useandstorethelargebottleinyourrefrigeratororacool,darkplace.

VEGANSHORTENING

Likemanypeople,Igrewupeatingmargarine,andforyearsitseemedthattheveganversionswereagoodoption,whetherforbakingorspreadingonbread.Butthatthick,butteryconsistencyistheresultoftheindustrialprocessknownashydrogenation,andoneofitsdownsidesisthecreationoftransfats—nowwidelybelievedtobeextremelyunhealthful.Foratime,therewerefewoptionstotakeitsplace.EventuallytheMediterraneandietcamealong,andmanyfolkswerecontenttodipbreadinoliveoil,butveganbakingstillsuffered.EnterEarthBalance.Theirproductlineincludesbutteryveganspreadsandsticksandveganshortening,whichcomesinhalf-cup,foil-wrappedstickswithtablespoonincrementmarks,makingiteasytouseandmeasure.ThroughoutthebookIreferto“veganshortening”;whetheryouusethebuttery-flavoredsticksorthemoreneutralvegetableshorteningisuptoyou.

HERBSANDSPICESAwell-stockedspicecabinetisyoursecretweaponasachef.Learninghowtomasterfullyseasondishesisalifelongproject,buthereareafewthingstothinkabout:Intermsofherbs,usefreshwheneverpossibleforpeakflavor.Whenpurchasingdriedherbsandspices,trytofindastorethatgoesthroughitsstockrapidly.Thatwaythere’sabetterchancethatwhatyou’regettingisfresherandhasn’tbeensittingontheshelfforayear.Speakingofwhich,somepeoplesuggestthatyouapplythesameruletospicesasisrecommendedforclothingin

suggestthatyouapplythesameruletospicesasisrecommendedforclothinginthebackofyourcloset:ifit’sbeensittingaroundformorethanayear,tossit.I’llleaveyourwardrobeuptoyou,butit’sagoodpracticetopurchaseherbsandspicesinsmallquantitiesandreplenishoften.Optforwholeovergroundandinvestinamortarandpestleorspicemilltogrindthemjustbeforeuse.AMicroplanegratercanalsobeusefulforgratinglargerspices,likenutmegandcinnamon.

LECITHINIuseliquidlecithin,athick,stickysubstancetypicallyderivedfromsoybeans,tokeepthosenastyicecrystalsfromformingingelatos,andasanemulsifierinotherrecipes,tohelpstabilizemixturesthatwouldotherwisetendtoseparate.Here’salittletip:Whenmeasuringliquidlecithin,oilyourmeasuringspoonfirst.Thenthelecithinwillsliderightout.(Thisisalsohelpfulwithnutbuttersandotherstickyingredients.)

NONDAIRYMILKSoymilkisthemostcommonnondairymilkbecauseitmostcloselymimicsthepropertiesofcows’milk.IalwaysuseunsweetenedsoymilksoIcancontroltheamountofsweetnessinarecipe,butyoucanalsouseregular(unflavored)soymilk,exceptinsavoryrecipes.Everybrandisdifferent,soifyoudon’talreadyhaveafavoritebrand,Isuggestthatyouexperimentwithafewandseewhichyouprefer.Almondmilkcanbesubstitutedinapinch,butnotethatitdoestastelikealmonds.Rice,barley,hemp,andotheralternativemilksareallworthatry.

NUTRITIONALYEASTAswithcilantro,mostpeopleseemtoeitherloveorhatenutritionalyeast.Havingfirmlyidentifiedthisdrabyellowingredientashippiefoodstuff,Iwouldn’ttouchitforyears.NowI’maconvertanduseit—inmoderation—wheneverIwanttoaddalittlecheeselikepungencytoadish.It’savailableinpowderedorflakeform.Iusedflakesinalltherecipes,butyoucansubstitutepowdered,usinghalftheamount.

NUTSI’msortofnutcrazy,andasyou’llsee,Iusethemquiteabit.Besureto

I’msortofnutcrazy,andasyou’llsee,Iusethemquiteabit.Besuretopurchasenutsfromasourcewithahighturnovertoensurefreshness.Nutscontainoilsthataresensitivetolightandheat,soonceyougetthemhome,storethemintherefrigeratortokeepthemfresh.

PEPPER“Freshlygroundpepper”isamouthful,butintermsofflavorthereisnosubstituteforwholeblackpeppercornsthathavejustbeenground.Whenyouknowyou’regoingtobedoingalotofcooking,grindafewdays’worthinaspicemillorwithamortarandpestleandstashitnearyourstovealongwiththekoshersalt.

PRODUCE

FRESHVERSUSNOTSOFRESH

You’llfigureoutsoonerratherthanlaterthatI’mallaboutfreshingredients.However,freshisonlyabaseline,astartingpoint,andsubstitutingwhennecessarywon’tbetheendoftheculinaryworld.Ifnotspecificallynoted,cannedorfrozenproduceisusuallysubstitutedmeasureformeasure.Driedfruitneedstobesoakedinliquidtorehydrate,butitwillneverreally“reanimate”toitsoriginalstateunlessyouliveinasci-fimovie.

HERBS

Freshherbsalmostalwaysimpartmoreflavorthandried,buttheyaren’talwaysavailable.Agoodruleofthumbwhensubstitutingdriedherbsforfreshistouseone-thirdtheamountcalledfor.Thatsaid,certainrecipes,suchassummerrollsandpesto,obviouslycan’tbemadewithdriedherbs.Dependingonyourcircumstancesandgreenthumb,considergrowingafewpotsofherbsyourself.ThoughI’mluckyenoughtohaveagarden,Ialsohavepotsofherbsgrowinginmykitchen,whichcutsdownonthoselast-minuteforaysintothegardenwithaflashlight.

MUSHROOMS

Freshmushroomsarealwaysmyfirstchoice,andthat’swhatIspecifyinalltherecipesthatcallformushrooms.Feelfreetoexperimentwithdifferentvarieties.Ifallelsefails,youcanalwaysusetheubiquitousbuttonmushroom,thoughaftertryingoyster,chanterelle,orshiitakemushrooms,theywillseemblandand

aftertryingoyster,chanterelle,orshiitakemushrooms,theywillseemblandandtasteless.Inapinch,youcansubstitutedriedmushrooms.Soaktheminhotwaterforthirtyminutes.Whenyoudrainthem,don’tthrowoutthesoakingliquidout;afterstraining,itcanbeusedasstock.

SALTWhensaltislistedbyitselfasaningredient,I’mreferringtokoshersalt.Coarserandlessrefinedsaltthancommontablesalt,ithasapurerflavor.Youcan,however,substitutetablesalt,usinghalftheamount.

SWEETENERS

AGAVESYRUP

Anumberoftherecipescallforagavesyrup,sometimescalledagavenectar.Agavenectarisproducedfromthesameplantfromwhichtequilaisdistilled.Itcomesinbothlightanddarkversions.Feelfreetouseeitheroneintherecipesthatcallforit.Itisabitsweeterthatrefinedsugar,andI’vecompensatedaccordingly.

MAPLESYRUP

Maplesyrupissimplythesapfrommapletrees,boileddowntoconcentrateitsflavorandsweetness.Imostlyuseitforitsdistinctflavor,ratherthanasasugarsubstitute.Itcomesintwogrades:GradeA,whichismorerefined,andGradeB,whichislessrefined.Personally,IliketheearthinessofGradeB,butthetwoareinterchangeable.

SUGAR

Whererecipescallforjustplainsugar,I’mreferringtogranulatedwhitesugar,andthat’swhatwasusedintestingthoserecipes.Whethergranulatedwhitesugarisveganornotisthesubjectofongoingdebate.Toremovecolor,impurities,andminerals,refinedsugarmadefromsugarcaneisfilteredthroughactivatedcarbon,whichmayormaynotbemadefromanimalbonechar.Noneofthecharremainsinthefinalproduct,butifyouareconcernedaboutthisprocessingmethod,youmaywanttolookfortheword“vegan”onthepackage.Turbinadosugar,dehydratedcanejuice,anddatesugarareallpossiblesubstitutesforgranulatedwhitesugar.Anotherpossibilityistoseekout

substitutesforgranulatedwhitesugar.Anotherpossibilityistoseekoutgranulatedwhitesugarmadefromsugarbeets,sinceprocessingsugarbeetsdoesn’trequirethatfiltrationstep.Unfortunately,sugarmadefrombeetstypicallyisn’tlabeledassuch.

TAHINITahiniisgroundsesameseedbutter,pureandsimple.Alwaysstirthejarwelltoincorporatetheoilthatrisestothetopofthejarwhenitsitsonashelfforanyperiodoftime.Aswithallnutandseedproducts,it’sbesttostoreitintherefrigeratororacool,darkplacetopreventitfrombecomingrancid.

TAPIOCASTARCHMadefromthedriedrootofthecassavaplant,tapiocastarchcanbeusedasathickenerinpuddingsandgelato,andalsoasaglueforsealingspringrollwrappers.Tapiocaisalsosoldinpearlform,butfortherecipesinthisbook,besuretopurchasethefinelygroundpowder(sometimeslabeledastapiocaflour),whichwilldissolvequicklyandsmoothly.

TEAIlovetea,andI’mnotafraidtomovebeyondtheteacupandcookwithit.IfIcouldgiveyoujustonedropofteawisdom,itwouldbe“noteabags—ever.”Wholetealeaveshavefarmoreflavorandintegrity,whereasteabagstypicallycontainalowergradeofteamadeupofthecrumbledorpowderedleftoversafterhigh-qualitywholeleaveshavebeenprocessed.Justopenupateabagandseeforyourself.Looseorwholeteaisavailablebothpackagedandbytheounceinteashops,coffeebars,andallovertheInternet.

TOFUWhateverthoughtsorfeelingsabouttofuyoubringtothetable,youcan’tdenyitsversatility.Itismadeinamultitudeoftexturesanddensitiesandispracticallyitsownfoodgroup.Itcomesinvacuumpacksandinwaterinsealedplastictubsintheproduceorrefrigeratedsectionofthemarket,aswellasinshelf-stableasepticpackagingsimilartojuiceboxes(typicallyMori-Nubrand).Dependingonwhereyoulive,youmightevenbeluckyenoughtoobtainitfreshlymade.Therecipesinthisbookcallforjusttwovarieties,softsilkenandextra-firm.Softsilkenissmoothandcustard-soft.Iuseitinsaucesandforbinding

Softsilkenissmoothandcustard-soft.IuseitinsaucesandforbindingingredientswhenIwanttoaddproteintoadishwithoutanobvioustofupresence.Extra-firmtofuisasubstantialandprimaryingredientinafewrecipes.Itissuchachameleonthatittakesonthepersonalityandflavorofanythingitcomesincontactwith.Iuseextra-firmtofuasaningredientinfillingstoprovidebody,texture,andheft.Storeanyextrauncookedtofuintherefrigeratorinwaterforuptoaweek,changingthewaterdaily.

VEGANMAYONNAISEFollowYourHeartmakesthebestveganmayonnaise,handsdown.Ithasagreatconsistency.It’scalledVegenaise,andyou’llfinditintherefrigeratedsectionofanywell-stockedgrocerystore.Afewoftherecipescallforhomemadeaioli,whichisbasicallymayonnaiselacedwithgarlic.Iheartilyrecommendmakingitfromscratch,butifyou’reshortontime,mixingafewpressedgarlicclovesintosomeVegenaisewilldothetrick.

VEGETABLESTOCKAgood,richvegetablestockaddsflavorcomplexitytomanysavorydishes.Whetherinsoups,risotto,orsauces,itprovidesafoundationfortheotheringredientstobuildupon.Widelyavailableinready-to-usecansandasepticcartons,italsocomesinconcentratedpowderedorpasteform.Checkthelabelandmakesuretherearenopreservativesorchemicalslisted.Thatsaid,thebestwaytoassurethequalityofyourstockistomakeityourself.Ifyou’dliketodoso,trythisrecipe.

WATERUnlessyouhaveyourownwellornaturalspring,youprobablygetyourwaterfromachlorinatedmunicipalwatersupply.Whilechlorineprotectsusfromanumberofwaterbornedisease-producingorganisms,itcanalsohaveanegativeimpactonyeast,sousegood-qualityfilteredwaterwhenmakingGingerBeerortheTwenty-One-HourBoule.

THEWELL-EQUIPPEDVeganKitchen

Likeawell-stockedpantry,akitchenwithawell-stockedarsenaloftoolsandappliancescanelevatetheexperienceofpreparingmeals.Whileitwouldbenicetohavetheentirelistofrecommendeditemsthatfollowsatyourdisposal,itmaynotbepossibleorevennecessarytohavethemall.However,someoftherecipesdocallforspecializedtools,sobeforemakinganyrecipe,alwaysreaditthroughtomakesureyouhavenotonlytheingredientsbutalsotheequipmentyouneed.Considerinvestinginafewqualityitemsupfront,thengraduallybuildingupyourcollection.Besidestheenjoymentyou’llgetfromusingthem,you’llalsohavesomethingtoleavetoyourdescendants!

ALLTHINGSMECHANICAL

BLENDER

Withoutadoubt,ablender’snumber-onereasonforexistenceistomakemargaritas.Afterthat,it’sanaturalforpuréeingsoupsandsauces.Itcanalsofillinforafoodprocessor,butaren’tyousickandtiredofruiningallyourwoodenspoonhandlesfromtryingtounclogtheblades?Anotheroptiontoconsiderisanimmersionblender.Thishandhelddevicecanbeinserteddirectlyintoacookingvesseltoquicklypuréeasoup,sauce,orsaladdressingwithouthavingtotransfertheingredientstoafoodprocessororblender.Thecleanuptimethissavesisabigplus.

CITRUSJUICER

Whileyoucanjustsliceyourcitrusinhalfandsqueezebyhand,onceyouexceedafewlemonsinarow,you’llwantatoolthatreducesyourriskofarepetitivestressinjury.Thereareavarietyoftypestochoosefrom,includingelectricjuicers,old-schoolcastglassjuicers,handheldreamers,andhinged,clampingpresses.

FOODPROCESSOR

Asmentionedpreviously,ablendercansometimesfillinforafoodprocessor,

Asmentionedpreviously,ablendercansometimesfillinforafoodprocessor,butthisapplianceshoulddefinitelybepartofyourkitchen.Inmyview,it’sasessentialasastoveorrefrigerator.Iusethe11-cupmodeloftheCuisinartPro.Itslices!Itdices!Andit’sbigenoughtohandlelargervolumesoffood.Atthesametime,it’safairlymodestimplementwithouttoomanybellsandwhistles.Inadditiontothemetalblade,whichistheprimaryworkhorse,ithasanumberofshreddingandslicingdisksthatmakethosetasksabitmoreenjoyable.

ICE-CREAMMAKER

Believeitornot,whenIwasveryyoung,mymomhadawooden-tubice-creammaker.ItwasallveryMainStreet:weaddedsaltandiceandtookturnscrankingthehandle.Today,thereareanumberofinexpensiveelectricmodelsavailablethatmakefrozendessertsintwentyminutes,nohandcranking(orsorearms)required.Cuisinartmakesasimpleonethatinvolvesacanisteryoukeepinyourfreezer,readyforyournextadventureingelatomaking.

PASTAMACHINE

AlthoughIdomakehomemadepasta,Ihaven’tincludeditinthisbook.Thereis,however,arecipeforParchmentFlatbreadCrackers,whichbenefitsfromatoolthatcanrolloutsuperthinsheetsofdough.Manystandmixershaveafancypasta-makingattachment,butIlikemyMarcatoAtlashand-crankmodel.AtlaspastamachineshavebeenusedbyItalianhomecooksfordecades.Theyclampontothecounterand,withlesselbowgreasethanyou’dneedforanantiqueice-creammaker,crankoutbeautiful,paper-thinsheetsofdough.

SPICEMILL

Smallandreasonablypriced(andsometimesmasqueradingascoffeebeangrinders),spicemillsaregreatforgrindingsmallbatchesofspicesfromwholepodsorseeds.Iguessyoucoulduseyourspicemillforgrindingcoffeetoo,butbesuretowipeitoutafterwardsoyourchaidoesn’ttastelikeacappuccino.

STANDMIXER

I’mnotacompulsivebaker,butIdolikemydesserts,soIconsiderastandmixeraguiltypleasure.Becauseallthepartsonastandmixerarefixedinplace,you’resafefromhazardssometimesencounteredwithahandmixer,suchasflyingbowlsandbeaterblades.Astandmixeralsoleavesyoufreetodootherthingsduringmixing,suchasaddingingredientsorsippingthechef’s

thingsduringmixing,suchasaddingingredientsorsippingthechef’sprerogativeglassofwine.Dependingonthemodelyoupurchase,youcanalsouseadoughhookattachmenttomakebreadandawhiskattachmenttomakesaladdressing.Whileneitherisimpossibletodowithahandheldmixer,onceyou’veexperiencedusingastandmixer,you’llfindithardtogoback.

THINGSTHATCUT

KNIVES

Ifeelcompelledtodeliverasermonontheimportanceofinvestingingood-qualityknives.Whencookingplant-basedcuisine,youwillonlyneedtwoorpossiblythreeknives,sodon’tskimp.You’llneedan8-inchchef’sknife,whichwillbecomeyourworkhorse.Lookforonewithasolid,heftyhandlethatfeelsgoodinyourhand,becauseyou’llbeconstantlychopping,dicing,andslicingwiththisknife.A3-inchparingknifeisyourothermust-have.Useitforpeelingandgettingintothosesmallcrevicesinaccessibletoachef’sknife.Finally,ifyoufeelliketreatingyourself,addaserratedbreadknifetoyourcollection.Itwillcutthroughaloafofbreadwithoutreducingittoadeflatedballoon,anditwillalsoslicethroughatomatolikenothingelse.Onefinalnote:Keepyourknivessharp.Ifyoudon’twanttosharpenthemyourself,sendthemouttoaprofessionalonaregularbasis.

MANDOLINE

Themandolineisaspecializedtoolthatslicesvegetablesthinlyandevenly—andatwarpspeed.Justbeware;itsrazor-sharpblademeansyouneedtobecarefultokeepyourfingersandknucklesoutoftheway.Mostmandolinescomewithasafetyhandletohelpyouavoidaccidents.

MICROPLANEGRATERS

HowdidweeverlivewithoutMicroplanegraters?Outshiningaboxgrater,theseamazingtoolscangratechocolate,carrots,hardspiceslikewholecinnamonandnutmeg,and,mostimportant,citruszestandginger.Theycomeinavarietyofsizesandshapesandwithdifferentsizesofholes,sostartwiththeoneyouthinkyou’llusemostoften,orsplurgeandgetseveral.

VEGETABLEPEELER

Ifyoudon’thaveavegetablepeeler,putdownthisbookandgobuyoneimmediately.They’retypicallyaboutthepriceofapoundoforganicpotatoesbutwilllastalifetime.Youcoulduseyournewparingknifeasapeeler,butyou’llinevitablyremovealotofthevegetablealongwiththeskin.EitheraY-peeleroraswivelpeelerwilldo;justmakesureyourvegetablepeelerissturdyandhasacomfortablehandle.

THINGSTHATSTIR

FLEXIBLESPATULAS

Iliketohaveatleastthreespatulasalwaysattheready.“Small,medium,andlarge”isthemantrahere.Spatulasareindispensableforscrapingeverylastbitofingredientsfromabowl,spreadingthingsoutnicelyandneatly,orgettingthelastdropofmustardfromthebottomofthejar.Choosegoodsiliconespatulasthatwon’tsplitormeltunderhighheatconditions.

SPOONS

IfIhavewaytoomanyjuicergadgets,myspooncollectionqualifiesmeformyownsegmentontheTVshowHoarders.Mostpeoplebringhomeknickknacksorlocaldelicaciesfromtheirforeigntravels.Ibringhomewoodenspoons.Long-handled,perforated,flat,angled,slotted,Iusethemallandfeelthey’reasindispensableasagoodknife.

WHISK

Awhiskisperfectforincorporatingairintobatters,andalsoforclobberingclumps.Getonethat’ssturdyandwon’tneedreplacinginamonth.

THINGSTHATMEASURE

KITCHENTIMER

Ihaveadigitalkitchentimer,andIuseanapponmyphoneasbackupwhenIneedtotimemorethanoneitem.If,likeme,you’reeasilydistracted,atimerwithaloud,obnoxiousalarmisthebestbet.

MEASURINGSPOONSANDCUPS

You’llneedasetofmeasuringspoonsandasetofmeasuringcups,eitherplastic

You’llneedasetofmeasuringspoonsandasetofmeasuringcups,eitherplasticormetal.

SCALE

Havingarealkitchenscaleseparatesthemenfromtheboys(nottomentionthewomenfromthegirls).ThoughU.S.cookbooksoftencallformeasuringbyvolume,thisisn’tasaccurateasmeasuringbyweight.Amongotherthings,ingredientscanvaryindensity;forexample,mushroomsorcheese.InthisbookIoccasionallycallforingredientsbyweight,soitmighthelptohaveascalehandy.Andevenifyoudon’toftenneeditfortherecipesinthisbook,it’ssimplyagoodpieceofequipmenttohaveonhand.

THERMOMETERS

Youwillneedathermometerformeasuringthetemperatureofsomeoftheliquidsintherecipes.Kitchenthermometerscomeintwostyles:instant-readanddigital.Eitheroneisfine.Justmakesureit’seasytoreadandcanmeasureupto400°FifyouplanonmakingtheTea-PoachedPearswithCaramelSauceorHazelnutHalvahrecipe.Andwhileyou’reatit,Irecommendthatyoupickupanoventhermometer.Nomatterhownewortop-of-the-lineyourovenis,itcouldbeoffbyasmuchas25°Fto50°F.

THINGSTHATCONTAIN

BOWLS

You’llneedatleastafewmixingbowls.Dependingonhowelaboratemymenuis,Imayhaveasmanyassixbowlsgoingatatime.Foryouraveragemeal,however,the“small,medium,andlarge”mantraapplies.Besuretohavesomebowlsthatcantakeheat,suchasPyrexormetal.

COCKTAILSHAKER

Instantpanache!Ajarwithalidwillworkjustfine,butwouldn’tyourathershowoffalittleandimpressyourguests?

COLANDER

Nottobeconfusedwithasieve(seefollowing),acolanderhaslargerholesandismeantforrinsingordraininglargeitemssuchaspasta,vegetables,orbeans.I

ismeantforrinsingordraininglargeitemssuchaspasta,vegetables,orbeans.Isuggestfindingoneaslargeasyourkitchencanaccommodate.Therearefewthingsasirritatingasanoverflowingcolander.

FINE-MESHSIEVE

Nottobeconfusedwithacolander(seepreceding),afine-meshsievestrainerisusedtodrainfineingredientsandstrainliquids,aswellasdustthetopofdessertswithcocoaandsugar.Youcanalsouseittosmoothoutlumpybatter;justusethebackofalargespoontopushthebatterthroughthemesh.

PLASTICSQUEEZEBOTTLES

Squeezebottlesaregreatforemulatingthestylingofpretentiousrestaurants,whichcanbeanicetouchwhencookingforcompany.Usethemtoapplysaucesorsaladdressings.You’llavoiddripsandsplatters,andifyou’refeelingcreative,youcanmakeprettypatternsontheplate.

THINGSTHATYOUCOOKINORON

BAKINGSHEETSANDPANS

Investinaheavy,professional-qualitysetofbakingpansandsheets.Youwon’tregretit.Startwithacoupleof13-by-18-inchbakingsheetsthatwon’twarpintheoven.Thenadda5-by-9-inchloafpananda9-inchroundcakepan.Ialsorecommenda9-inchspringformpanwitharemovablebottom.

POTSANDPANS

Youmayhaveinheritedyoursetofpotsandpansfromyourparents,ormaybeyounevergotridofthatoldsetyouhadincollege.Whateverthecasemaybe,ifyou’refrustratedorunhappywithwhatyouhave,forgoodnesssake,gooutandbuynewcookware.Thereareamultitudeofbrandsandmaterialstochoosefrom.Copper-bottomedpansconductheatmostefficiently,thoughthere’ssomethingaboutcastironthatfeelsearthy,anditalsoholdsheatonceit’swarmedup.Doalittleresearch,askfriendswhattheyprefer,andreadreviews.It’sapersonalthing,andI’msureyou’llknowwhenyou’vediscoveredthesetthatfeelsright.Justbesuretohaveavarietyofsizesofpotsandpansonhand.You’llneedsmall,medium,andlargeskilletsorsautépansforsautéing.You’llalsoneedtwoorthreesaucepanswithlids,aswellasalargesouppot.

SILICONEBAKINGMAT

Sortofamiraclematerial,siliconecanwithstandupto500°Fintheoven,andnothingseemstosticktoit.Asiliconebakingmatliesrightonthebakingsheet,soyoudon’thavetogreasethepanoruseparchmentpaper.

TARTPANS

You’llneedatleastonetartpanifyouplanonattemptinganyofthetartrecipesinthisbook.Startwithaclassicroundpanwithflutededgesandaremovablebottom.Iusuallyspecifya9-inchtartpan,butonceyougetthehangofmakingtarts,youcanexperimentwithmakingsmall,4½-inchindividualtartlets,suchastheSavoryBreakfastTartsinsteadofonelargetart.

CHAPTER1Morning

DARJEELINGHIMALAYANRAILWAYChaiTea

ServedthroughoutIndia,chaiisawarm,fragrantcombinationoftea,spices,andmilk.Thisexoticbeverageisagreatwayofexploringsomespicesthatmayseemunusualtoyou.InamedthisversionaftertheWestBengalnarrow-gaugesteamtrainthat,inthelate1800s,openeduptheDarjeelingtea-growingregiontotravelers.AsIsipthistea,IliketodaydreamthatI’msittinginatrainstationintheclouds,waitingfortheDHRtorefuelitssteamenginebeforeascendingtotheteafields.

{SERVES4}1tablespoonfennelseeds1tablespooncardamompods6cloves6blackpeppercorns1cinnamonstick,brokenintoafewpiecesOne2-inchpiecefreshginger,unpeeled,thinlysliced1bayleaf3½cupsfilteredwater2tablespoonsDarjeelingorotherblacktealeaves1cupplainsoymilkSugar

Inamortar,combinethefennelseeds,cardamom,cloves,peppercorns,andcinnamonstickandusethepestletocrushthemjustuntiltheyreleasetheirfragrance.Alternatively,putthespicesonacuttingboardandgivethemafewgoodpoundswiththebottomofaheavyskillet.Thespicesshouldmerelybecracked,sobesuretostopbeforetheyturntopowder.

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethecrushedspices,ginger,andbayleaf.

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethecrushedspices,ginger,andbayleaf.Pourinthewaterandbringtoaboilovermedium-highheat.Lowertheheatandsimmer,uncovered,for10minutes.

Removefromtheheat,addthetealeaves,andletsteepfor5minutes.Strainimmediately,discardingthetealeavesandspices.Stirinthesoymilkandsweetenwithsugarasdesired.Returntheteamixturetothesaucepanandbringbacktoasimmer,thenremovefromtheheatimmediately.Serveinwarmedteacupsormugs.

VeganMaryWhosaysgoingveganmeansneverhavinganyfun?AsfarasBloodyMarysgo,thosebothersomeanchoviesusedtomaketraditionalWorcestershiresaucearetheonlystickingpoint.I’vetakencareofthatwithahomemade,anchovy-freeversionIcallVeganshireSauce.Thisrecipefortheclassiccocktailcallsforaquavit,aNorwegianliquormadefrompotatoesandflavoredwithcaraway,butyoucouldalsosubstituteahigh-qualityvodka.Riseandshine!

{SERVES4}16ouncestomatojuice4ouncesaquavit2½ouncesfreshlemonjuice1teaspoonVeganshireSauce1teaspoonTabascosauce1teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshhorseradishorprepared

horseradishFreshlygroundpepperIcecubes4celerystalksforgarnish4halvedcherrytomatoesforgarnish4lemonwedgesforgarnish

Inapitcher,combinethetomatojuice,aquavit,lemonjuice,VeganshireSauce,Tabasco,horseradish,andpepperandstiruntilwellmixed.(Atthispoint,themixturecanbecoveredandrefrigeratedovernight.)Fillfourglasseswithiceanddividethetomatojuicemixtureamongthem.Garnisheachglasswithacelerystalk,2cherrytomatohalves,andalemonwedgespearedonacocktailpick,thenserve.

VeganshireSauce

{MAKES1CUP}6tablespoonswater6tablespoonsmolasses¼cupsoysauce2tablespoonsapplecidervinegar1smallshallot,minced¼teaspoonmincedgarlic¼teaspoonmincedpeeledfreshginger1teaspoongroundginger½teaspoonseasalt⅛teaspooncayennepepper⅛teaspoongroundcloves

Inamediumsaucepan,combinealloftheingredients.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Continuetoboilfor2minutes,stirringconstantly.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Pourthemixtureintoablenderandblenduntilsmooth.Strainifyou’dlikeasmoothersauce.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator;thesaucewillkeepforupto3months.

BreakfastFriesThesebaked,thicklycut,andrichlyspicedpotatoesareanicechangeofpacefromthemoreconventionalhomefriesorhashbrowns.Ofcourse,youcanmaketheseanytimeofday,butpreparingthemforbreakfastfeelsspecialsomehow.

{SERVES4}2largerussetpotatoes¼cupextra-virginoliveoil2garliccloves,minced2teaspoonssmokedSpanishpaprikaSalt½teaspoongroundcumin¼teaspooncayennepepper¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

Preheattheovento400°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Cutthepotatoesinhalflengthwise,thenslicethehalveslengthwiseinto½-inch-thickwedges.Fillalargebowlwithcoldwaterandsoakthepotatoesfor1minutetoremovethestarch.Drainandrepeattwoorthreetimes,untilthewaterrunsclear.Drainagain,thendrythepotatoeswithacleankitchentowel.

Inalargebowl,combinetheoliveoil,garlic,paprika,1teaspoonsalt,cumin,cayenne,andpepperandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthepotatoesandtossuntilevenlycoated.Arrangethepotatoesinasinglelayeronthepreparedbakingsheet.

Bakefor30minutes,thenturnthefriesoverandbakefor30minutesmore,untilcrispyandbrowned.Seasonwithmoresaltifdesiredandservehot.

MultigrainKutiaWITHALMONDS,CHERRIES,ANDCHOCOLATE

SometimesIgettiredofoatmeal.Istillcraveawarmbowlofcookedcerealinthemorning,butIwantonethat’selevated,withunexpectedflavorandtexture.IfoundjustthatattheBlackCatBakeryinLosAngeles,whereChefNickCoeoffersupkutia,aUkrainianporridgetraditionallypreparedwithwholewheatberries,thengarnishedwithfruitsandnuts,andservedduringtheEasterandChristmasholidays.Nickgenerouslysharedhisrecipewithme—amodernversionthatflirtswithacombinationofgrainsfromthreedifferentregions:quinoa,aSouthAmericanstaple;farro,anancientvarietyofwheatthathailsfromItaly(lookforfarroperlato,thesemipearledtype,whichcooksfaster);andkasha,orroastedbuckwheatgroats,anodtotheSlavic.ThisrecipemakesenoughforanextendedUkrainianfamily,butthecookedgrainskeepwellintherefrigeratorandareeasilyreheated,makingforaquickbreakfastthroughouttheweek.

{SERVES6OR7}

ALMONDMILK2cupsrawalmonds(9ounces)5cupswaterOne2-to3-inchcinnamonstick,brokeninhalf¼cupagavesyrupormaplesyrup½cupslicedorsliveredalmonds(2ounces)

1cupsemipearledfarro1cupkasha1cupquinoa4½cupswater½teaspoonsalt½cupdriedcherries2ouncesdarkchocolate,coarselychopped

TOMAKETHEALMONDMILK:Puthalfofthealmondsandwaterina

blenderandaddhalfofthecinnamonstick.Blenduntilcreamyandsmooth,about2minutes.Putafine-meshstraineroverabowlandpourthemixturethrough,pressingthesolidswiththebackofawoodenspoontoextractasmuchofthealmondmilkaspossible.Discardthesolids.Blendandstraintheremainingalmonds,water,andcinnamoninthesameway.

Stirintheagavesyrup,thenrefrigerateforatleast1houranduptoovernighttoallowtheflavorstodevelop.

Preheattheovento350°F.

Spreadthealmondsinanevenlayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbakefor10to15minutes,untillightlytoastedandfragrant.

Rinsethefarro,kasha,andquinoaseparatelyundercoldrunningwateruntilthewaterrunsclear.Inasmallsaucepan,bring1½cupsofthewatertoaboil.Addthefarroand¼teaspoonofthesalt.Lowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilallofthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthegrainsaretenderbutnotmushy,25to30minutes.Removefromtheheatandletstandfor5to10minutesforafinalsteaming.

Meanwhile,inamediumsaucepan,bringtheremaining3cupsofwatertoaboil.Addthekasha,quinoa,andremaining¼teaspoonsalt.Lowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilallofthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthegrainsaretenderbutnotmushy,15to20minutes.Removefromtheheatandletstandfor5to10minutesforafinalsteaming.

Inalargebowl,combinethefarro,kasha,andquinoaandgentlyfluffwithafork.Portionabout1cupofthegrainsintoindividualbowls.Pour¾cupalmondmilkovereachhelpingofporridgeandtopwithsomeofthetoastedalmonds,cherries,andchocolatebeforeserving.

TIP:Topreparekutiainadvance,spreadthecookedgrainsinanevenlayerononeormorebakingsheetsandletcoolcompletely.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateforupto1week.Toreheat,putthegrainsinasaucepanandadd¼cupofwaterper3cupsofgrain.Coverandcookovermedium-lowheatfor5to10minutestogentlysteamgrains,thenserveasdirected.

SavoryBreakfastTarts

Thesetartsprovideforthosespecialneedswehaveinthemorning—aheartystarttotheday,aswellassomethingalittledecadentinthepastrydepartment.Iwentfortheearthinessofwildmushroomsandthymeinthisversion,butIencourageyoutoexperimentwithotherfillings,suchasacombinationofleeks,squash,potatoes,androsemary.Notethatthisrecipecallsforeightindividualtartpanswithremovablebottoms,soyou’llneedtohavethoseonhand.Youcanalsomakeonelargertartusinga9-or10-inchtartpan.

{SERVES8}

CRUST1½cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting½cuphazelnuts(2ounces),toastedandskinned(seeTip)andcoarsely

chopped1teaspoonseasalt½cupcoldveganshortening,diced¼cupicewater,orasneeded

FILLING6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2leeks(whiteandpalegreenpartsonly),wellcleanedandthinlysliced1poundmixedwildmushrooms(suchasoyster,chanterelle,and

stemmedshiitake),sliced1teaspoonseasalt1tablespoonchoppedfreshthymeOne12.3-ouncecontainersoftsilkentofu,drained½cupunsweetenedplainsoymilk3tablespoonsnutritionalyeastflakes

TOMAKETHECRUST:Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflour,hazelnuts,andsaltandpulseuntilthenutsarefinelyground.Addtheshorteningandpulseuntilthemixtureresemblesacoarsemeal.Addtheicewater1tablespoonatatimewhilecontinuingtopulse.Stopassoonasthedoughcomestogether.

Transferthedoughtoaworksurfaceanddivideitintoeightequalpieces.Pateachpieceintoadisk.Wrapthedisksindividuallyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesanduptoovernight.

refrigerateforatleast30minutesanduptoovernight.

Transferthechilleddoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrolleachdiskintoa6-inchround;ifthedoughistoosticky,youcansandwichitbetweentwosheetsofparchmentpaperorplasticwrapforrolling.Transfertheroundstoeight4½-inchtartletpanswithremovablebottoms.Gentlypressthedoughagainstthebottomandsidesofthepans,thenrefrigeratethetartshellsfor20minutes.

Preheattheovento400°F.

Putthetartletpansonarimmedbakingsheetandbakeforabout15minutes,untilthecrustsarepalegolden.Removefromtheovenandletcoolonarack.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEFILLING:Inalarge,heavyskillet,heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheleeksandsautéuntiltender,about4minutes.Addthemushrooms.Sprinkle½teaspoonofthesaltoverthemushrooms,raisetheheattomedium-high,andsautéuntilthemushroomsaretender,about8minutes.Addthethymeandsautéfor1minute.Transferthemushroommixturetoabowlandsetasidetocool.

Lowertheoventemperatureto375°F.Inablenderorfoodprocessor,combinethetofu,soymilk,nutritionalyeast,remaining3tablespoonsoliveoil,andremaining½teaspoonsaltandblenduntilsmoothandcreamy.Pourthetofumixtureintothemushrooms,stiruntilwellcombined,thenspoonthemixtureintothepreparedcrusts.

Bakeforabout30minutes,untilthefillingissetandbeginningtobrownontop.Letstandfor10minutes,thenremovethetartsfromthepansandserve.

TWENTY-ONE-HOURBoule

Don’tbealarmedbythetwenty-onehoursinthetitle.You’llonlyhavetodevotetenminutesofyourprecioustimetothismiraculousloafofbread,whichpracticallybakesitself.Therestofthetimeyou’llbedreamingaboutthatfirst,heavenlybite.Inspiredbytheno-kneadbreadrecipemadefamousbyJimLahey,ownerofSullivanStreetBakeryinNewYork,thisboulegetsitsnamefromatraditionalroundFrenchrusticloaf,withashaperesemblingtheball(bouleinFrench)usedinthegamepétanque.Theonlyspecializedpieceofequipmentyou’llneedisanovenproofDutchovenwithalid.Alternatively,youcanbakethebreadonapizzastoneandcoveritwithadeepovenproofpot,oruseanyingeniouscombinationthatwillencasethebouleandgiveitplentyofroomtodoubleinsizewhenitrisesduringbaking.Themainthingtowatchoutforispotandlidhandlesthataren’tovenproof.

{MAKESONE2-POUNDLOAF}3¾cupsbreadflour,plusmorefordusting¼cupvitalwheatgluten¼teaspoonactivedryyeast1½teaspoonssalt1¾cupsfiltered,unchlorinatedwater

Inalargebowl,combinetheflour,vitalwheatgluten,yeast,andsaltandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthewaterandstiruntilwellblended.Thedoughshouldbewetandfairlysticky.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandletthedoughrestinawarmspot(about70°F)for18hours.

Afterits18-hourrise,thedoughwillhaveatleastdoubledinvolumeandwillhavesmallbubblesformingonthesurface.Usingaflour-dusteddoughscraperorspatula,scrapethedoughontoaclean,lightlyflouredworksurface.Coatyourhandswithflour,thengentlypatthedoughwithyourpalmstocreateathickdisk.Withbothhands,gentlyreachunderthedoughandliftandstretchthediskjustafewinchestoformanoblongshape.Setthedoughbackdownandfoldtheshortendsin,justlikefoldingaletter.Rotatethedisk90degreesandrepeatthelifting,stretching,andfolding.

Flouryourhandsagainandshapethedoughintoaballbytuckingthe

Flouryourhandsagainandshapethedoughintoaballbytuckingtheoutsideedgesunderneathasyouquicklyrotatetheballthroughafew90-degreeturnsinyourhands.Theballshouldstarttoformanicesmoothsurfaceontop.Don’tfretoverthisstep;eachtimeyoumakethisloafyou’llgetmorefamiliarwiththebreadandhowtoshapeit.

Createabanneton(traditionallyawoodenbasketusedtoshapecertainloavespriortobaking)byliningabasketor9-to10-inch-widebowlwithalint-freeteatowel.Generouslycoatthetowel-linedbowlwithflour,thenputtheballofdoughonthetowel,seam-sidedown.Dustwithmoreflourandcoverwithanotherteatowel,thenletthedoughrisefor2hours,untilitdoesn’treadilyspringbackwhenpokedwithafinger.

About30minutesbeforetheendofthesecondrise,putalidded6-to8-quartDutchovenorheavyovenproofpotintheovenandpreheatto475°F.

Oncetheovenhaspreheatedfor30minutes,carefullyremovethepotfromtheoven.Removethetopteatowelfromthedoughandliftthedoughbygrabbingtheteatowellineratbothends.Slideonehandunderthetowelandflipthedoughoverintothepot,seam-sideup,gentlycoaxingthetowelawayfromthedoughifithasstuckanywhere.

Coverthepotandbakefor30minutes.Uncoverandbake15to30minutesmore,untilthebouleisbrownedandsoundshollowwhentapped.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelytransfertoaracktocool.Transfertoacuttingboard,slice,andserve.

FrenchToastWITHCARDAMOMPEARCOMPOTE

Frenchtoast,thatchildhoodcomfortfood,getsagrown-upplaydatewithacardamom-scentedpearcompote.Besuretouseagood-qualitymaplesyrupandhomemadebreadoratleastaloafofrusticcountrybreadfromalocalbakery.Thecompotecanbepreparedthenightbefore.

{SERVES6TO8}

COMPOTE2pears,peeledandcored⅓cupmaplesyrupGratedzestof½lemon1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice½teaspoongroundcardamom

FRENCHTOAST1cupall-purposeflour1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonsalt1¼cupssoymilk1tablespoonmaplesyrup,plusmorefordrizzling1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1to2tablespoonscanolaoilorsoymargarine6to8slicesrusticbread,preferablyTwenty-One-HourBoulePowderedsugarfordusting

TOMAKETHECOMPOTE:Cutthepearsinto½-inchdice.Puttheminasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat;addthemaplesyrup,lemonzest,lemonjuice,andcardamom;andbringtoasimmer.Lowertheheatandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixtureisthickandsyrupy,10to20minutes.Removefromtheheatandcovertokeepwarm.(Ifyoumakethecompoteinadvance,reheatbeforeserving.)TOMAKETHEFRENCHTOAST:Inamedium

bowl,combinetheflour,cinnamon,andsaltandblendwithawhisk.Addthesoymilk,maplesyrup,andvanillaandwhiskjustuntilsmoothandfreeoflumps.

Inalargeskillet,heat1tablespoonofthecanolaoilovermedium-highheatuntiladropofwatersizzleswhenaddedtothepan.Dipseveralslicesofthebread(howevermanywillfitintheskilletwithouttouching)inthebatterandfryuntilgoldenbrownonthefirstside,1to2minutes.Turnandfrythesecondsideuntilgoldenbrown.Repeatwiththeremainingbread,addingmoreoilasnecessary.Servewiththepearcompoteandadustingofpowderedßßsugar.Drizzlewithadditionalmaplesyrupifdesired.

BreakfastStrataPreparingthislayered,bakedcasserolemaytakealittletime,butit’stheperfectdishforalazyweekendwithguests.Encasedinaflakydough,thismorningshowstopperisasbeautifultolookatasitistoeat.Eachslicerevealsthemulticoloredstrata,orlayersofingredients.Youcanassembleitadayaheadandjustpopitintheoventhenextmorning.Justbeawarethatevenonceyouputitintheoven,itwon’tbereadytoserveforanothertwohours.Noworries;thatwillleaveyouplentyoftimetoloungearoundinyourpajamasandmixupabatchofVeganMarys.

{SERVES10}

DOUGH2cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting1teaspoonsalt½cupcoldveganshortening,diced¼cupicewater,ormoreasneeded1teaspoonoliveoil

SCRAMBLEDTOFU1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonmincedgarlic2teaspoonsgroundcumin1teaspoonsmokedSpanishpaprika½teaspoonturmeric½teaspoonsalt¼cupnutritionalyeastflakes1poundextra-firmtofu,drained,pressed(seeTip),andcrumbled

CASHEWCREMA¾cuprawcashewpieces(4ounces)2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1garlicclove

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil8ouncesextra-firmtofu,drained½teaspoonsalt1or2grindsofpepper

FILLING3poundsredorgreenchard(3to5bunches),or1poundspinach3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil12ouncesshiitakeorcreminimushrooms,stemmedandsliced1cupfreshbasilleavesOne8-ouncejarroastedredbellpeppers,drainedandpattedverydry

withpapertowels1tablespoonunsweetenedplainsoymilk

TOMAKETHEDOUGH:Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflour,salt,andshorteningandpulseuntilthemixtureresemblessmallpeas.Addtheicewaterandpulsejustuntilthedoughcomestogether,addinganother1tablespoonofwaterifneeded.Alternatively,youcanmixthedoughbyhand.Combinetheflourandsaltinalargebowl.Addtheshorteninganduseaforkorapastryblendertoincorporateuntilcrumbly.Addthewaterandcontinuemixinguntilthedoughcomestogether,addingmorewaterasneeded.

Turnthedoughoutontoaworksurfaceandpressitintoamound.Cutoffone-fourthofthedough,formbothportionsintoflatdisksabout¾inchthick,andwrapeachseparatelyinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast1hourandupto2days.

Justbeforepreparingtheothercomponentsofthedishandassemblingthestrata,putthelargerpieceofdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollintoa14-inchcircle.Greasethebottomandsidesofa9-inchspringformpanwiththeoliveoil.Laythedoughinthepanandgentlypressitagainstthebottomandsides,allowingtheexcesstohangovertheedgeofthepan.

Rollthesmallerpieceofdoughintoacirclealittlelargerthanthediameterofthepan.Usingthebottomofthepanasaguide,cutthedoughtothesizeofthepan.Transferthecircleofdoughtoabakingsheetanddiscardthescraps.Chillthelinedpanandcircleofdoughuntilreadytouse.

TOMAKETHESCRAMBLEDTOFU:Inalargeskillet,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandsautéuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addthecumin,paprika,turmeric,salt,nutritionalyeast,andtofuandsautéuntiltheflavorshavemelded,3to4minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocool.

TOMAKETHECASHEWCREMA:Inafoodprocessor,combinealloftheingredientsandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy,2to3minutes.Setaside.

TOMAKETHEFILLING:Rinsethechardandteartheleafygreensfromthecenterribs,discardingtheribsorsavingthemforanotheruse,suchasvegetablestock.(Ifusingspinach,removeanythickstems.)Inawokorheavysouppot,heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilovermedium-highheat.Addhalfofthegreenstothepotandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheybegintowilt.Addtheremaininggreensandcookuntilalltheleavesarewilted.Transferthegreenstoafine-meshsievetodrain,thentransfertoapapertowelorcleankitchentowelandpattoremoveexcessmoisture.Squeezethetowelfirmlytoremovemoreoftheliquid,thencoarselychopthegreens.

Inamediumskillet,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsandsautéuntilsoftened,3to5minutes.

Evenlyspreadhalfofthescrambledtofuinthedough-linedpan.Spreadhalfofthecremaoverthetofu.Dipalargespooninwaterandusethebackofthespoontosmooththecremainanevenlayer.Distributehalfofthegreensoverthecrema,thenlayerhalfofthebasilleavesoverthegreens.Coverwithhalfofthemushrooms.Layeralloftheroastedbellpeppersoverthemushrooms,cuttingthemasneededtomakeanevenlayer.Thenworkthroughthelayersinreverseorder,usingtheremainingmushrooms,basil,greens,crema,andtofu.

Withasharpknifeorkitchenscissors,trimtheoverhangingedgeofthedoughtoalengthof1inch.Foldtheoverhangingdoughtowardthecenterofthestrata.Laythesmallerdoughcircleontop,pressingdowngentlywithyourhandtoevenoutthelayersoffilling.Presstheedgesofthetopcircleofdoughwithyourthumbtoseal,workingyourwayaroundthepan.Usingasharpknife,cutasmallXinthecenterofthestratatoallowsteamtoescapeduringbaking.Wrapthestratainplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hoursanduptoovernight.

Placeanovenrackatthelowestlevelandpreheattheovento375°F.Brushthesoymilkoverthetopofthestrata.Bakethestrataforabout1hour,untilgoldenbrown.Letcoolonarackforatleast1hour.Thenrunaknifebetweenedgeofthestrataandthepan.Wigglethepangentlytoloosenit,thenliftitoff,cutthestrataintowedges,andserve.

cutthestrataintowedges,andserve.

CHAPTER2Afternoon

LavenderLemonadeIwasfirstintroducedtothisdrinkbymyfriendKentattheRubyRanchinNewMexico.Heandmybestfriend,Bob,hadplantedanentirefieldoflavenderanditseemedtheyweretryingtofindasmanywaystouseitashumanlypossible.Ihelpedharvestthelavenderonesummerandsleptinthedryingroombelowracksoffreshlycutblossoms.(MaybeIwashallucinatingfromalavenderoverdose,butIdreamedIwasinanE.M.Forsternovel.)Thisdrinkisextremelyelegant,yetalsoveryeasytomake.Themostexcitingpartiswatchingthealchemyasyoustirthefragrantlavenderinfusionintotheyellowlemonade:itturnsbrightpinkrightbeforeyoureyes!

{SERVES8}¼cupdriedlavenderflowers1½cupsboilingwaterOne12-ouncecanfrozenlemonadeconcentrate,thawed5cupscoldfilteredwaterIcecubes

Inaheatproofpitcherorteapot,combinethelavenderandboilingwater.Coverandletsteepfor10minutes.Strain,discardingthelavender,andletcoolcompletely.

Ina2-quartpitcher,combinethelemonadeconcentrateandcoldfilteredwaterandstiruntilwellmixed.Stirinthelavenderinfusion.Serveoverice.

ShandyMyfriendBob,whosekinhailfromAustralia,saysthewomeninhisfamilydrinkshandy,abeer-basedspritzer,asawayofkeepingupwiththeblokes,whofavoredstrongerquaffs.Althoughtheshandyprobablyoriginatedasawayofcreatinga“lite”beerbeforesuchthingsexisted,thisconcoctionisincrediblyrefreshingonahotsummerdaynomatterwhatyourmotivation.Here,Icallforeitherahefeweizen,whichisaGermanstyleofbeerthathasalemonybiteyetisn’ttoobitter,orapilsner,whichisapalelagerwithabitmoreofthetasteofhops.However,thissimplerecipeinvitesexperimentationwiththeproportionsandingredients,sodiverightin!

{SERVES2}One12-ouncebottlehefeweizenorpilsner12ounceslemon-limesodaorGingerBeer

Chilltwolagerglassesinthefreezerforatleast10minutes.

Pour6ouncesofbeerintoeach,followedbythesoda.Stirgentlyandserverightaway.

GingerBeerThereisnothingquitelikethezingofgingerbeermadefromfreshgingerroot.Thisversioncontainsnoalcohol,sothoseofyouitchingforabuzzwillneedtoaddashotofvodkatomakeitaMoscowMule.Besuretofollowthedirectionsexactly,andalsobesuretousefilteredwater,asthechlorineintapwatercankilltheyeast.Sincethisrecipecallsforquiteabitoffreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,here’satiptohelpmaximizetheamountyougetfromeachlemon:bringthelemonstoroomtemperaturebeforesqueezing.Asyougainexperienceinbottlingyourowngingerbeer,feelfreetoplaywiththerecipe,adjustingtheproportionsoflemonjuice,sugar,andginger.Oneimportantnote:You’llneedtwelve16-ounceflip-topbottlesforthisrecipe,sobesuretohavethoseonhandbeforeyoubegin.IfyoudrinkGrolschbeer,thisisagreatwaytorepurposethosebottles.Whatevertypeofbottlesyouuse,besuretosterilizethembeforefilling.

{MAKESTWELVE16-OUNCEBOTTLES}4cupssugar4cupsfiltered,unchlorinatedwater,plus15cupswarmfiltered,

unchlorinatedwater(97°Fto102°F)3cupsfreshlemonjuice(fromabout20lemons)1¼poundsfreshginger¾teaspoonchampagneyeast,suchasPremierCuvée,orbakingyeast

Inalargesaucepan,combinethesugarandthe4cupswater.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.Removefromtheheatandletcool.

Strainthelemonjuicethroughcheeseclothorafine-meshsieve,discardingthepulpandseeds.

Peeltheginger,thenfinelygrateit.Putthegingeronthreelayersofcheesecloth,thengatheritintoabundle,holditoverabowl,andtwistorpressthecheeseclothtoextractthegingerjuice.Alternatively,useamasticatingjuiceextractor,suchasaChampionorHuromjuicer,toextractthegingerjuice.Youshouldendupwithabout12ouncesofgingerjuice.

Inapitcherorothercontainerlargeenoughtoaccommodate1½gallonsof

liquid,combinethesugarsyrup,lemonjuice,gingerjuice,and15cupswarmwaterandstiruntilwellmixed.Addtheyeastandstiruntildissolved.

Usingafunnel,filltwelve16-ounceflip-topbottleswiththemixture,leaving1to1½inchesofheadroomineachbottle,thensealthecap.Storethebottlesinawarmplace(70°Fto80°F),completelyawayfromlight,forexactly48hours(seeTip).Refrigerateimmediatelytostopthefermentationprocess.

Oncethegingerbeerischilled,openthetopveryslowlywhilepressingdownonitwithadishcloth;thiswillallowthecarbondioxidetoescapegradually,ratherthanspoutinglikeageyserwhenserving.

TIP:Untilyou’vemadethisrecipeafewtimes,followthedirectionsexactly.Don’tletyourgingerbeerfermentformorethan48hoursorsomeofthebottlesmightburstduetooverproductionofcarbondioxide.Ifyou’reconcernedaboutthis,putthebottlesinaclosedicechestwhilethey’refermentingasaprecaution.

DukkahWITHRUSTICBREAD

Dukkah,acoarse,dry,dippingpowder,isanexoticcondimentthatdoesn’treallyfitintoanyoftheusualculinarycategories.Traditionally,thisEgyptianmedleyoftoastednutsandspicesissoldinpapercones,accompaniedwithfreshbread.Thebreadisfirstdippedintoabowlofyourbest-qualityoliveoil,theninthedukkah.Irecommendservingitasanappetizeror,accompaniedbyaglassofcrispwhitewineandsomefreshin-seasonfruit,asamidafternoonsnack.Theblendcanalsobeusedasagarnishonsoupsorsalads.Oneofthekeyflavorsinthisrecipeissumac.Thoughyouneedonlyasmallamount,huntingdownthegorgeousreddishpurplepowdermadefromsour,astringentsumacfruitsiswellworththeeffort.Thatsaid,youcanomitthesumacandstillenjoydukkah.

{MAKES1½CUPSOFDUKKAH;SERVESABOUT6}⅓cupshelledrawpistachios⅓cuprawalmonds⅓cuprawhazelnuts¾cupsesameseeds¼cupcorianderseeds1½tablespoonscuminseeds1tablespoonfennelseeds1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds1tablespoongroundsumac½teaspoonsalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1loafrusticbread,preferablyTwenty-One-HourBouleExtra-virginoliveoilfordipping

Preheattheovento350°F.

Spreadthepistachios,almonds,andhazelnutsinasinglelayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbakefor10to15minutes,untillightlytoastedandfragrant,stirringonceabouthalfwaythroughbaking.Letcoolfor5to10minutes,thencoarselychopthenuts.

Inadry,heavyskillet,toastthesesameseedsovermediumheatuntilfragrant,about2minutes.Transferthesesameseedstoaplatetocool.Repeat,toastingthecorianderseeds,cuminseeds,fennelseeds,andmustardseedsseparatelyintheskilletuntilfragrant.

Oncetheseedshavecooled,puttheminafoodprocessor.Addthesumacandchoppednutsandpulseuntilcoarselyground.Addthesaltandpepperandpulseatimeortwotocombine.

Slicethebread,thencuteachsliceinhalforintolargecubes.Poursomeoliveoilintoashallowbowl.Gatheraroundanddipthebreadintheoliveoilandtheninthedukkah.

Storethedukkahinanairtightcontainerinacoolplace;itwillkeepforupto1month.

MuhammaraThisvoluptuous,crimsonspreadiscommonthroughouttheMiddleEastbutstillrelativelyrareintheWest.It’sanaromaticmixturemadefromnuts,roastedredbellpeppers,pomegranatemolasses(areductionofpomegranatejuiceyieldingathick,tartsyrup),andAleppopepper(abright-redmildchilepeppernativetoSyria).Muhammaraisdeliciousasadip,asaspreadonsandwiches,orsimplyenjoyedoncrackersorsliceofbread.

{MAKES2CUPS;SERVESABOUT6}½cuprawwalnuts(2ounces)¼cuprawpinenuts(1ounce)3redbellpeppersorjarredroastedredbellpeppers,drained¾cupdriedbreadcrumbs4garliccloves,coarselychopped1tablespoonpomegranatemolasses3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1tablespoonAleppopepper(seeTip)1teaspoongroundcumin⅓cupextra-virginoliveoilSaltFreshlygroundpepperSlicedrusticbread,preferablyTwenty-One-HourBoule,orpitachips

Inadry,heavyskilletovermediumheat,toastthewalnutsandpinenuts,shakingthepanfrequently,untilfragrant,about5minutes.

Ifusingfreshbellpeppers,roastthemoveramediumtohighgasflameoneitherthestovetoporanoutdoorgrill.Usetongstoturnthepeppersrepeatedlyuntilmostoftheskinischarred,blackened,andslightlyblistered.Becarefulnottoovercookthepeppers,ortheymaysplitandbedifficulttopeel.Puttheminaheatproofbowlandcoverwithaplateorplasticwraptoallowthemtosteam.

Whentheroastedpeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,gentlypeelawaytheskinusingyourfingersorasmallparingknife.Resisttheurgetorunthepeppers

underwater,asthiswillremovetheirnicesmokyflavor.Removeanddiscardthecoreandseeds.

Inafoodprocessor,combinetheroastedpeppers,nuts,breadcrumbs,garlic,pomegranatemolasses,lemonjuice,Aleppopepper,andcumin.Processuntilsmooth,stoppingtoscrapedownthesidesofthefoodprocessorbowlifnecessary.Addtheoliveoilandprocessuntilsmooth,about30seconds.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandpulseoncemoretocombine.

Transfertoaservingbowlandservewiththebreadalongsidefordipping.

TIP:Ifyoudon’thaveAleppopepperonhand,youcansubstitute2teaspoonsofsmokedSpanishpaprikacombinedwith1teaspoonofgroundcayennepepper.

HummusWITHTAHINI

Althoughyoucannowfindpackaged,premadehummusinpracticallyanygrocerystore,it’swellworthmakingyourownfromscratch(justnotethatthebeansrequireasoakingovernightbeforebeingcooked).ThevividflavorshereremindmeoftheauthenticversionservedatoneofthefewMiddleEasternrestaurantsinSouthernCaliforniainthe1960s.Mymotherlovedethnicfood,andwewereregularsatKabakian’s,anArmenianrestaurantownedbytheaging,eponymousKabakianbrothers.Ifyouorderedhummusbitahina(whichsimplymeans“garbanzobeanswithsesamepaste”),thebrotherswouldshuffleovertoyourtableintheirslippers,pushingacartwithaplateofhummusandabasketoffreshlybakedpitabread.Then,determinedtoshowyouhowtoeatproperlyinthestyleoftheirhomeland,theywouldtearoffapieceofpita,dipitintoyourplateofhummus,andthenactuallystickitinyourmouth!Nowthat’sservice.

{MAKES4CUPS;SERVESABOUT8}8ouncesdriedgarbanzobeans1tablespoonbakingsoda5garliccloves¼cupfreshlemonjuice½cuptahini½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforgarnish1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonsaltPaprikaforgarnishGroundsumacforgarnishWarmpitabreadforserving

Inamediumbowl,combinethegarbanzobeansandbakingsoda.Pourwaterintothebowluntilthebeansarecoveredby1inchandletsoakforatleast8hoursanduptoovernightintherefrigerator.

Drainandrinsethebeans,puttheminamediumsaucepan,andaddfreshwatertocoverby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheat,

watertocoverby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthebeansaretender,30to40minutes.

Drainthebeans,reservingtheircookingliquid.Setasideaboutadozenwholegarbanzos.Inafoodprocessororblender,combinetheremainingbeanswiththegarlic,lemonjuice,tahini,oliveoil,cumin,salt,and¼cupofthecookingliquid.Processuntilsmooth,about1minute.

Transferthehummustoashallowservingbowl.Withthebackofalargetablespoon,makeanindentationinthecenterofthehummusanddrizzleinabitofoliveoil.Dustthetopwithpaprikaandsumac,thenscatterthereservedwholegarbanzosoverthetop.Servewiththewarmpitabread.Wearingslipperswhileservingisoptional,butit’sanicetouch.

ThreeSalsasWITHHOMEMADETORTILLACHIPS

Notbeingsatisfiedwithmerelyonesalsarecipe,I’vegoneoverboardandgivenyouthree.TheonlythingmissingisabatchofBloodOrangeMargaritas.Twoofthesesalsarecipescallforvarietiesofdriedchilesthatmaybeunfamiliar.YoucanfindthematmostLatinAmericangrocerystoresandonline.Theyarewellworththesearch,aseachhasitsowndistinctpersonality,flavor,andheat.Guajillosareamild,reddishbrownchile;árbolsarethin,smallchileswithabitmoreheat;andchipotlemorasaredried,smokedjalapeñosandpackthemostheatofthethree.Awordofadvicetothechilenovice:Don’ttouchyourfaceoranydelicateareasofyourbodywithyourhandswhileworkingwiththechiles.Youmaywanttowearapairofdisposableglovesorjustbesuretowashyourhandsthoroughlywithsoapandwaterafterward.

{SERVES6TO8}

SalsaRoja3garliccloves,unpeeled1largeserranochile,stemmed2largetomatoes1tablespoonmincedfreshcilantro1teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonsugar

Preheatthebroiler.

Inadry,heavyskilletovermediumheat,toastthegarlicandserrano,turningconstantly,untilbrownedandfragrant,about10minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peelthegarlicandtrimanddiscardtheserranostem.

Putthetomatoesinasmallovenproofpanandbroil,turningacoupleoftimes,for10to15minutes,untiltheirskinssplitandthey’reevenlycharred.Whencoolenoughtohandle,cutoutanddiscardthecores.

Inablender,combinethegarlicandserranoandchopwithquickpulses.Addthetomatoes,cilantro,salt,andsugarandblenduntilsmooth.Transfertoabowlandletcoolbeforeserving.

bowlandletcoolbeforeserving.

SalsaNegra4tablespoonscanolaoil3ouncesdriedchipotlemorachiles11garliccloves,peeled2cupswater½teaspoonsalt

Inaheavyskillet,heat2tablespoonsofthecanolaoilovermediumheat.Addthechilesandgarlicandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthechilespuffupandthegarlichasbrowned,about5minutes.

Putthechilesinabowlandaddhotwatertocover.Letsoakuntilsoft,20to30minutes.

Drainthechiles,thenremovetheirstemsandseeds.Inablender,combinethechiles,garlic,andthe2cupswaterandblenduntilsmooth.

Inthesameskillet,heattheremaining2tablespoonsoilovermediumheat.Carefullypourintheblendedmixtureandcook,stirringconstantly,for15minutes.Stirinthesalt,thentransfertoabowlandletcoolbeforeserving.

GuajilloandChiledeÁrbolSalsa3or4guajillochiles1or2chilesdeárbol8ouncestomatillos,huskedandrinsed½cupchoppedyellowonion(about1smallonion)1garlicclove,coarselychopped1teaspoonsalt1tablespoonmincedfreshcilantro

Rinsetheguajillosandchilesdeárbol,thenpatthemdry.Inadry,heavyskilletovermediumheat,toastthechiles,turningconstantly,untilfragrant,about3minutes.

Putthetomatillosinamediumsaucepanandaddwatertocover.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor5minutes.Useaslottedspoontotransferthetomatillosfromtheircookingwatertoablender.

Putthetoastedchilesinthecookingwaterandrehydratefor10to15

Putthetoastedchilesinthecookingwaterandrehydratefor10to15minutes.Drainthechiles,thenremovetheirstemsandseeds.Putthechiles,onion,garlic,salt,andcilantrointheblenderwiththetomatillosandblenduntilsmooth.Transfertoabowlandletcoolbeforeserving.

TortillaChips6to12corntortillasCanolaoilforfryingSalt

Stackthetortillasandcuttheminhalfcrosswise.Cuteachstackofhalvesintothirds,creatingsixtriangularwedgespertortilla.

Inadeep,heavypot,heat2to3inchesofcanolaoilovermedium-highheatuntilitregisters375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.

Dropahandfuloftortillasatatimeintothehotoilandfryuntilgoldenbrown,1to2minutes,turningifnecessary.Besurenottofrytoomanychipsatatime;leaveenoughroominthepotforthemtomoveaboutfreelysothey’llbrownevenly.

Removethecookedchipswithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels.Sprinklewithsaltandservewarm.

CevichedeVeganMyhopeisthatthislovelydishwillconjureupavisionofanopen-airshackonawarmbeach.Whiteplasticchairsandmismatchedtablescoveredwithslick,hibiscus-patternedoilclothdotthewhitesand.There’sasaltywaftofseaairinflectingeachbiteofthisdish.Althoughcevicheis,strictlyspeaking,aseafoodcocktail,thisall-vegetableversionemploysthetraditionalfreshlimejuiceto“cook”theingredientsandprovideatart,acidicdressing.Servethecevicheinclearglassbowlsorglassestoshowcasethegorgeouscolorsoftheingredients.Vamosalaplaya!

{SERVES4}4ouncesnewpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice1¼teaspoonssalt1jalapeñopepper,seededandminced

½redbellpepper,seeded,deribbed,andcutinto¼-inchdice½yellowbellpepper,seeded,deribbed,andcutinto¼-inchdice½mediumredonion,thinlysliced1garlicclove,minced½cupgreenolives,pittedandhalved1cupsmallcherrytomatoes,halved,or10ouncessun-driedtomatoes

packedinoliveoil,drainedandcoarselychopped1to2Persiancucumbers,unpeeled,cutinto½-inchdice(about½cup).

IfPersiancucumbersaren’tavailable,substituteahothousevariety.

¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantro1cupfreshlimejuice1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil⅛teaspoongroundcumin1ripeavocado,cutinto½-inchdice

Putthepotatoesinamediumsaucepanandaddcoldwatertocoverby2inches.Add1teaspoonofthesaltandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Lowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthepotatoesgiveeasilywhenpiercedwiththetipofasharpknife,8to10minutes.Becarefulnottoovercookthem;theyshouldstillbefirmenoughtoholdtheirshapewell.

Inalargebowl,combinethewarmpotatoeswiththejalapeño,bellpeppers,onion,garlic,olives,tomatoes,cucumber,andcilantro.

Inasmallbowl,combinethelimejuice,oliveoil,cumin,andremaining¼teaspoonsaltandstiruntilwellmixed.Pourthemixtureoverthevegetablesandstirgentlyuntilallofthevegetablesareevenlycoated,beingcarefulnottobreakupthecubesofpotato.Addtheavocadoandstirgentlytocombine.Serverightawayatroomtemperature,orrefrigerateforupto3daysandbringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

JicamaSaladIcalljicama“thetofuofthetuberworld.”Withitspristinewhitecolorandmildflavor,itmirrorstofu’sversatility,easilyplayinghosttostrong-flavoredingredients.Here,jalapeñoandchipotlegivethedishakick,balancingoutthejicama’smoist,refreshingcrunch.Thesaladgetsitsbeautifulgreencolorfromgreenonionsandcilantrowhirledintoathick,creamydressingsimilartogreengoddess.

{SERVES4}

DRESSING6to8greenonions(whiteandgreenparts),coarselychopped1bunchfreshcilantro,stemmedandcoarselychopped1jalapeñopepper,seededandcoarselychopped1cupveganmayonnaise,preferablyVegenaisebrandJuiceof2limes1chipotlechileinadobosauce1teaspoonsaltFreshlygroundpepper1largejicamaCilantrosprigsforgarnish

TOMAKETHEDRESSING:Inafoodprocessor,combinethegreenonions,cilantro,jalapeño,mayonnaise,limejuice,chipotlechile,andsaltandprocessuntilsmooth.Seasonwithpepper.

Peelthejicamaandcutitinhalf.Cuteachhalfinto⅛-inchslices.Workingwithstacksofafewslicesatatime,cutthejicamalengthwiseinto⅛-inch-thickmatchsticks,thencrosswiseinto⅛-inchdice.Putthejicamainalargebowl.

Addthedressingtothejicamaandstiruntilwellmixed.Refrigeratefor20to30minutestoallowtheflavorstomeld.Servegarnishedwiththecilantrosprigs.

FavaBeanSaladFavabeansareknownbymanynames,includingbroadbeans,fieldbeans,andWindsorbeans.Butwhateveryoucallthem,theyareaharbingerofspring,withawelcome,slightlybittertastethat’ssomewhatreminiscentofgreenpeas.Theshuckingandpeelingrequiredtoactuallygettothebeansmightseemlaborious,butthat’swhatguestsarefor!PlyyourhelperswithaShandyandputonanobscureAlgerianraiCD,andIbetyouwon’thearonecomplaint.

{SERVES4}

DRESSING1garlicclove,minced1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil3tablespoonsredwinevinegar1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonAleppopepperorredpepperflakesFreshlygroundpepper

SALAD3poundsfreshfavabeansintheshell2cupscornkernels(from2to3earsofcorn)1redbellpepper,seeded,deribbed,andcutinto¼-inchdice1mediumcucumber,peeled,quarteredlengthwise,andthinlysliced½mediumredonion,thinlysliced3tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¾cuppinenuts(3ounces),toasted(seeTip)

TOMAKETHEDRESSING:Inasmallbowl,combinethegarlic,oliveoil,vinegar,lemonjuice,salt,andAleppopepper.Seasonwithpepperandstiruntilwellmixed.

TOMAKETHESALAD:Prepareanice-waterbathbyfillingalargebowlwithiceandwater.

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addthefavabeansandcookfor2

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addthefavabeansandcookfor2minutes,thentransfertotheice-waterbathwithaslottedspoon.Returnthewatertoaboil,thenaddthecorn.Boilfor1minute,thendrain.

Whenthebeansarecoolenoughtohandle,peeloffanddiscardtheshells.Inalargeservingbowl,combinetheshuckedbeans,corn,bellpepper,cucumber,onion,parsley,andpinenutsandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthedressingandtossuntilthevegetablesareevenlycoated.Serverightawayatroomtemperature.

TofuCapreseStackThisgorgeoussaladisatoweringhomagetoCapresesalad,adishfromtheItalianislandofCaprithattraditionallyusesfreshmozzarella.Thegreenofthebasil,redofthetomato,andwhiteofthetofu(sittinginforthemozzarella)aresaidtorepresentthecolorsofItaly’sflag.Althoughtherecipecallsforextra-firmtofu,firmtofualsoworkswellhere.Onlymakethissaladinsummerandearlyautumn,asthekeytosuccessisusingtheripesttomatoesandfreshestbasilleavespossible!I’mindebtedtomysister-in-law,Wendy,forthedressingusedhere,andherbrilliantideaofreplacingthetypicallemonjuicewithlimejuice.It’ssosimpleandtastythatIcan’tseewhyyouwouldeverneedtobuybottledvinaigretteagain.

{SERVES6}3largetomatoes,preferablyheirloom1¾poundsextra-firmtofu,drained24largefreshbasilleavesWendy’sVinaigrette

Cuteachtomatointosixslices.Placeonesliceeachinthecenterofsixindividualservingplates.Patthetofulightlywithapapertowelorcleankitchentoweltoremoveexcessmoisture.Cuteachblockinto¼-inchslices(youshouldhaveabouttwelveslicesaltogether).Usea3-inchroundbiscuitcuttertocuttwelvecirclesfromthetofuslices,reservingthescrapsforanotheruse.Topeachsliceoftomatowithabasilleafandatofuround.Drizzleone-thirdofthevinaigretteoverthetofu,dividingitevenlyamongtheplates.Placeabasilleafontopofeachdiskoftofu.Repeatthelayers,stackingwithanothertomatosliceandtofudisk,drizzlinganotherone-thirdofthevinaigretteoverthetofu,andtoppingwithabasilleaf.Topeachstackwithanothertomatosliceandafinalbasilleaf,thendrizzlewiththeremainingvinaigrette.Serverightaway.

Wendy’sVinaigrette

{MAKESABOUT⅓CUP}Juiceof½lime1teaspoonbalsamicvinegar2teaspoonsDijonmustard1smallshallot,minced½teaspoonVeganshireSauce,optional3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilSaltFreshlygroundpepper

Inasmallbowl,combinethelimejuice,vinegar,mustard,shallot,andVeganshireSauce(ifusing)andwhisktogether.Slowlyaddtheoliveoilinathinstream,whiskingconstantlyuntilsmoothandemulsified.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Store,tightlycovered,intherefrigeratorforupto1week.

RoastedPepperInvoltiniInvoltinimeans“stuffedandrolled”inItalian.Thisbeautifulmethodofpreparingmulticoloredbellpeppersresultsinadishthatcanbeofferedasanappetizerorservedaspartofanantipastoplate.Thefreshbayleavesarereallyforvisualeffect,buttheydoimpartaniceearthyfragrancetothepeppers.Ifyoucan’tfindfreshbayleaves,usedriedbayleaveswhenmarinatingthepeppers.Forpresentationpurposes,youcanlinetheplatterwithdrainedgrapeleavespackedinbrineifyoulike.

{SERVES6}2largeredbellpeppers2largeyellowororangebellpeppers10freshordriedbayleaves8ouncesextra-firmtofu,drained2tablespoonsnutritionalyeastflakes1garlicclove

1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice1teaspoonextra-virginoliveoil½teaspoonsalt2grindsofpepper2plumtomatoes,peeledandseeded(seeTip)andfinelydiced8freshbasilleaves,plusthinlyslicedortornbasilleavesforgarnish

Roastthebellpeppersoveramediumtohighgasflameoneitherthestovetoporanoutdoorgrill.Usetongstoturnthepeppersrepeatedlyuntilmostoftheskinischarred,blackened,andslightlyblistered.Becarefulnottoovercookthepeppers,ortheymaysplitandbedifficulttopeel.Puttheminaheatproofbowlandcoverwithaplateorplasticwraptoallowthemtosteam.

Whentheroastedpeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,gentlypeelawaytheskinusingyourfingersorasmallparingknife.Resisttheurgetorunthepeppersunderwater,asthiswillremovetheirnicesmokyflavor.Putthepeeledpeppersbackinthebowl.Addthebayleavestothebowl,tossgently,andallowtoinfusefor1hour.

Inafoodprocessor,combinethetofu,nutritionalyeast,garlic,lemonjuice,oliveoil,salt,andpepperandprocessuntilthemixtureisthickandsmooth.Gentlyfoldinthetomatoes.

Putthepeppersonaworksurface,removethestems,andbutterflythepeppersinhalflengthwisetoformoneflatsurface.Removetheseeds.Laythepepperhalvesoutflatandplace2basilleavesoneach,thentopwith2tablespoonsofthetofumixture.Rolleachpepperintoacylinderandlaythem,seam-sidedown,ontoaplatter.Refrigeratefor20minutes,thencuttherollsintothickslices.

Toserve,lineaplatterwiththereservedbayleaves.Arrangetheinvoltiniontopofthebayleaves,flat-sidedown,andgarnishwiththethinlyslicedbasil.

SummerRollsWITHTWODIPPINGSAUCES

ThesebeautifulrollsareveganrelativesoftheirtraditionalVietnamesecousins.Withtheircrispvegetables,coolmint,andsmoothricepaperwrappers,they’reparticularlyrefreshinginthesummermonths,buttheyaretrulydeliciousanytimeofyear.Personally,I’mneversatisfiedwithonlyonedippingsauce,soI’veincludedtwo.Ifyou’reanythinglikeme,you’llenjoynotbeingabletodecidewhichoneyouprefer.

{SERVES4}Twelve8½-inchroundricepaperspringrollwrappers12redleaflettuceleaves,cutinhalflengthwise,plusmoreforserving4mediumcarrots,peeledandcutintomatchsticks1redbellpepper,seeded,deribbed,andcutintomatchsticks½seedlesscucumber,peeledandcutintomatchsticks1bunchfreshmint,trimmed1bunchfreshcilantro,trimmed1bunchgreenonions,cutlengthwiseintothinstripsPeanutDippingSauceforservingSoyDippingSauceforserving

Fillapanorwide,shallowbowllargeenoughtoholdthericepaperwithhotwater.Lightlydampenacleankitchentowelandspreaditonacleansurface.

water.Lightlydampenacleankitchentowelandspreaditonacleansurface.Dipasheetofricepaperinthehotwaterfor5seconds,thentransfertothedampenedtowelandsmoothitout;thewrapperwillstillfeelhardbutwillsoftenasitsits.

Layapieceoflettuceonthebottomthirdofthericepaper.Topthelettucewithaboutone-twelfthofthecarrots,bellpepper,cucumber,mint,andcilantro.Rollthewrapperuphalfwaytoenclosethefillingsandtuckintheends.Placeafewgreenonionstripsontherollandcontinuetorollsothegreenonionsareenclosedbutstillshowthroughthewrapper.

Coveraservingplatterwithmorelettuceleaves.Putthefinishedrollontheplatterandcoverwithadamppapertowel.Continuefillingandrollingtheremainingwrappersinthesameway.Serveonabedoflettuceleaves,withthedippingsaucesalongside.

PeanutDippingSauce

{MAKES1½CUPS}1tablespoonlightsesameoil1smallshallot,finelychopped1garlicclove,minced½jalapeñopepper,minced(seededifyoupreferamilderheatlevel)½cupunsaltedsmoothpeanutbutter¾cupvegetablestock,preferablyhomemade(seerecipe)1tablespoonVeganshireSauce¾teaspoonagavesyrup1tablespoonfreshlimejuice1teaspoontoastedsesameoilChoppedroastedpeanutsforgarnish

Inasmallsaucepan,heatthelightsesameoilovermediumheat.Addtheshallot,garlic,andjalapeñoandsautéuntilbeginningtobrown,about4minutes.Stirinthepeanutbutter,stock,VeganshireSauce,andagavesyrupandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for5minutes.Letcoolslightly.

Pourthemixtureintoablender,blenduntilsmooth,addingabitofwaterifthesauceistoothick.Transfertoaservingbowlandstirinthelimejuiceandtoastedsesameoil.Sprinklewiththechoppedpeanutsbeforeserving.

SoyDippingSauce

{MAKESABOUT½CUP}¼cupsoysauce¼cupricewinevinegar1tablespoonthinlyslicedscallions(whiteandgreenparts)

Inasmallbowl,combinethesoysauce,vinegar,andscallionsandstiruntilwellmixed.Serveimmediately.

BakedRatatouilleINPHYLLO

Ratatouille,thedarlingofdinnerpartiesinthe1970s,stagesacomeback.Inthisupdatedversion,FrancemeetsGreeceassavoryeggplant,zucchini,andtomatoesaresandwichedbetweenlayersofflakyphyllodough.Phyllo(sometimesspelledfilo)isthedelicate,paper-thindoughcommonlyusedinMiddleEasterndessertssuchasbaklava,butit’salsoanaturalforsavorydishessuchasthis.

{SERVES6TO8}6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,orasneeded1mediumyellowonion,halvedandthinlysliced4garliccloves,minced1largeeggplant,unpeeled,cutinto½-inchdice3mediumzucchini,cutinto½-inchdice1½poundsplumtomatoes,peeledandseeded(seeTip)andcutinto½-

inchdice1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper½cupfinelychoppedfreshparsley¼cupfinelychoppedfreshdillTwelve12-by-17-inchphyllosheets,thawediffrozen

Inalargeskillet,heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonionandsautéuntiltranslucent,about5minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.Addtheeggplantandzucchiniandsautéuntilallofthevegetablesaretender,about10minutes.Stirinthetomatoes,salt,andpepper;lowertheheat;andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilmostoftheliquidhasevaporated,5to8minutes.Stirintheparsleyanddillandremovefromtheheat.

Positionarackinthemiddleoftheovenandpreheattheovento425°F.Coata9-by-13-inchbakingpanwithsomeoftheremainingoliveoil.

Unrollthephylloandtrimthesheetstojustfitinsidethepan,thencoverwithplasticwrapandadampkitchentoweltokeepthemfromdryingout.Keepingtheremainingsheetscovered,putonesheetonacleanworksurfaceand

useapastrybrushtogentlycoatwithsomeoftheremainingoliveoil.Putasecondsheetontopandbrushwithmoreoliveoil.Repeatuntilyouhaveastackofsixsheetsbrushedwitholiveoil.Setasideandrepeat,creatingasecondstackofsixsheetsbrushedwitholiveoil.

Carefullytransferoneofthephyllostacksintothepreparedpanandspoonthevegetablesontop,spreadingthemixtureinanevenlayer.Coverwiththesecondstackofphyllosheets.Brushthetopsheetofphyllowithabitmoreoliveoil.

Bakeforabout20minutes,untilthetopisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandletsitfor5minutes.Useasharpknifetocutthepastryintosquares.Serverightaway.

TIP:Toseedthetomatoes,bringalargesaucepanofwatertoaboil.ScoreasmallXinthebottomofeachtomatowithaknife.Putthetomatoesintheboilingwaterandblanchfor1minute.Removethemwithaslottedspoon.Whencoolenoughtohandle,slipofftheskins,cutthetomatoesinhalf,andscoopoutseeds.

GarbanzoBeanandTomatoSoupIwantedtocallthisrecipe“ZuppadiCeciconPomodori,”butmycopyeditorinsistedthatitbeinEnglish.Butdoesn’titsoundbetterinItalian?Foroptimumflavor,usedriedbeanstomakethisheartydish.However,thebeansdorequireovernightsoakingbeforebeingcooked,soinapinchyoucanusecannedgarbanzos.Orzoisasmall,rice-shapedpastathatlendsitselfwelltothissoup,butfeelfreetosubstituteanypastayouhappentohaveonhand.

SERVES4TO61¼cupsdriedgarbanzobeans,ortwo15-ouncecans,drained6cupsvegetablestock,preferablyhomemade(seerecipe)1cuporzoOne28-ouncecancrushedordicedtomatoes1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling4garliccloves,minced2teaspoonschoppedfreshrosemary1teaspoonchoppedfreshthyme1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

Ifusingdriedgarbanzobeans,puttheminalargebowlandaddwatertocoverbyatleast2inches.Letsoakforatleast8hoursanduptoovernight.

Drainandrinsethebeans,puttheminalargesouppotorstockpot,andaddfreshwatertocoverby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,forabout2hours,untiltender.Drainandsetaside.

Inthesamepot,bringthestocktoaboiloverhighheat.Lowertheheattomedium-high,addtheorzo,andcookuntilaldente,about10minutes.Stirinthegarbanzosandtomatoesandbringthesoupbacktoasimmer.

Meanwhile,inasmallskillet,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthegarlic,rosemary,andthymeandsautéuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirtheseasoningsintothebeans,alongwiththesaltandpepper.

Transfer2cupsofthesouptoablenderorfoodprocessorandblenduntil

Transfer2cupsofthesouptoablenderorfoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.Returnthepuréetothepot.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Servethesoupinwarmedbowlswithadrizzleofoliveoilontop.

VegetableStock

{MAKES4QUARTS}2tablespoonsoliveoil3onions,sliced2carrots,sliced2celerystalks,sliced2parsnips,sliced6clovesgarlic,sliced2bayleaves1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns6sprigsparsley2teaspoonsfreshrosemary2teaspoonsfreshthyme4quartswater

Inalargepot,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonions,carrots,celery,parsnips,andgarlicandsautéuntiltheonionsaretranslucentandtherestofthevegetableshavesoftened,about10minutes.Stirinthebayleaves,peppercorns,parsley,rosemary,thymeandwater.Lowertheheatandsimmerfor2hours.Strain,discardingthesolids.

Coolbeforestoringintherefrigeratorforupto3daysorinthefreezerforupto1month.

TIP:Iliketosavevegetabletrimmingssuchaspotatopeelings,mushroomstems,carrottops,leektrimmingsorchardribsandaddafewhandfulsofthemtothepotwhenyouaddthewater.Alsoconsiderfreezingyourtrimmingsuntilyouarereadytomakeabatchofbroth.Justaddtheminthawedorfrozen.

BroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushrooms

Fromthetitleofthisrecipe,youmaythinkit’sgoingtobealotlikeyourAuntie

Sunflower’shippiestir-fry,butit’snot.ThepreparationmethodsusedhereowemoretoJapaneseZentemplecookerythantoWoodstock.Here,tofu,carrots,andshiitakemushroomsarebroiledratherthanstir-fried.Thislightertouchmakesroomfortheflavorsofgingerandsesametofindenlightenment.

{SERVES4}1½poundscarrots1¾poundsextra-firmtofu,drainedandpressed(seeTip)3ouncesshiitakemushrooms,stemmed¼cuppeanutoil¼cupsoysauce1teaspoonsalt1tablespoongratedpeeledfreshginger5greenonions,thinlysliced(whiteandgreenparts)2tablespoonsricevinegar1tablespoontoastedsesameoil1tablespoonsesameseeds,toasted(seeTip),forgarnish

Setanovenrack4to5inchesbelowthebroilerandpreheatthebroiler.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithfoil.

Cutthecarrotscrosswiseinto3-inchlengths.Dependingonthethicknessofthecarrots,cutthepieceslengthwisetoawidthofabout½inch.Cutthetofuinto1½-inchdice.Thinlyslicethemushrooms.

Inalargebowl,combinethepeanutoil,soysauce,salt,andginger.Addthemushroomsandgentlytossuntilevenlycoatedwiththemarinade.Transferthemushroomstothepreparedbakingsheet.Putthetofuinthebowlwiththeremainingmarinadeandtosstoevenlycoat.

Broilthemushroomsfor5to10minutes,untiltender,turningonceabouthalfwaythrough.Keepaneyeonthemsotheydon’tburn.Transferthemushroomstoabowlandcovertokeepwarm.Leavetheovenon.

Addthecarrotstothebowloftofuandtosstoevenlycoat.Transferthecarrotsandtofutothesamebakingsheet,reservingthemarinade.

Broilthecarrotsandtofufor20to30minutes,untilnicelybrowned,turningatimeortwoasneeded.Keepaneyeonthemsotheydon’tburn.Whendone,transfertothebowlofreservedmarinade.Addthemushrooms,green

done,transfertothebowlofreservedmarinade.Addthemushrooms,greenonions,vinegar,andsesameoilandtossgentlyuntilevenlycoated.Transfertoalargeplatterorsmallerindividualdishesandsprinklewiththetoastedsesameseedsbeforeserving.

TIP:Totoastsesameseeds,aswellaspinenuts,pistachios,walnuts,coconut,andothernutsandseeds,puttheminadry,heavyskilletovermediumheatandcook,shakingthepanfrequently,untilfragrantandjustbeginningtocolor.Forsesameseeds,that’susuallyjust1or2minutes.Keepacloseeyeonthem,astheycanburnquickly.Whencookinglargerquantitiesorlargerseedsandnuts,thetoastingtimewillbelengthier,butit’sstillessentialtowatchthemclosely.

SweetCremaWITHBERRIESANDCHAMBORD

LighterthananEnglishtrifle(orforthatmatter,anAmericanparfait),thisisoneofthosedessertsthatisrefreshingratherthanrich.Thereareonlythreesimplecomponents:asweetcashewcrema;freshberries;andadeep,dark,syrupyraspberrysauce.

{SERVES4}

SWEETCASHEWCREMA¾cuprawcashewpieces(4ounces)8ouncesextra-firmtofu,drained¼cupagavesyrup2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1tablespoonCognac1tablespooncanolaoil1teaspoonpurevanillaextract½teaspoonseasalt½cupChambordorotherraspberryliqueur1½cupsfreshblackberriesorraspberries,or10ouncesfrozenberries,

thawedanddrainedThinstripsoflemonzestforgarnish

TOMAKETHECREMA:Inafoodprocessor,combinealloftheingredientsandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy,2to3minutes.Transfertoabowlandrefrigerateuntilwellchilled,about1hour.

Inasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat,bringtheChambordtoasimmer.Adjusttheheattomaintainasimmerandcontinuetocookuntilreducedbyhalftoformasyrup,about10minutes.Refrigerateuntilwellchilled.

Whenthecremaandsyruparecold,dividethecremaamongfourdessertbowlsorsmallglasses,or,forafittinglyelegantpresentation,spoonthecremaintoabeautifulglassbowl.SpoontheberriesandChambordsyrupoverthecrema.Garnishwithastripoflemonzestbeforeserving.

OrangeandSaffronPaletasPaletas,whichisSpanishfor“icepops,”havealonghistoryinMexico,wheretheycomeineveryflavorimaginable.They’reperfectinthesummer—notonlybecausethey’reagreatwaytocooloff,butbecausetheytakefulladvantageofsummer’sbountyoffruit.OrangeandsaffronareadetourfrommoretraditionalMexicanflavors,puttingaMiddleEasternspinonthissouth-of-the-bordertreat.Thisrecipespecifiesusingicepopmolds,butifyoudon’thavethem,it’seasytoimprovise;forexample,youcouldusepapercupsandwoodencraftsticks.

{MAKES10PALETAS;SERVES10}¼cupsugar¾cupwater¼teaspoonsaffronthreads2oranges,peeledandseparatedintosegments2cupsfreshorangejuice1teaspoonorangeflowerwater

Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugarandwater.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Continueboilingandstirringuntilthesugardissolves.Removefromtheheat,stirinthesaffron,andsetasideuntilcool.

Iftheorangeshaveseeds,removethem,thenputthesegmentsinablender.Addthesaffronsyrup,orangejuice,andorangeflowerwaterandblenduntilsmooth.

Dividethemixtureevenlyamongten2½-ouncemolds,insertthesticks,andfreezeuntilsolid,3to4hours.Toserve,dipthebottomofthemoldsinwarmwaterfor3to4seconds,thenremovethecoversandpulloutthepaletas.

GingerPoundCakeWITHMATCHAGLAZE

Anyveganbakerhastofindagoodsubstituteforthosepeskyeggsanddairyproductssocommonlyusedinbakedgoods,andpoundcake,traditionallymadewithapoundeachofbutter,eggs,flour,andsugarpresentsaspecialchallenge.Thankstomybakingguru,ChristineMoore,thisdeliciousveganpoundcakeovercomesallobstacles.Itisascloseintasteandtexturetoaconventionalpoundcakeaspossibleforaveganversion.Whilethereareamultitudeofflavoradditionsthatmightelevatethishumbledesserttothehedonisticplane,Ithinkthepairingofcrystallizedgingerandmatcha,afinepowdermadefromthehighest-qualityJapanesegreentealeaves,doesitbeautifully.

{YIELD1LOAF;SERVES8TO10}

CAKE1cupcoldveganshortening,diced,plusmoreforgreasingthepan1cupsugar2teaspoonspurevanillaextract14ouncesunsweetenedplainsoyyogurt2½cupsall-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonsalt½cupcoarselychoppedcrystallizedginger

MATCHAGLAZE1cuppowderedsugar4teaspoonsmatcha2tablespoonswater

TOMAKETHECAKE:Preheattheovento350°F.Greasea9-by-5-inchloafpan,withshortening.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinetheshorteningandsugarandbeatonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,about3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlhalfway

through.Addthevanillaandcontinuebeatingfor1minute.Turnthemixerspeedtolow,addtheyogurt,andcontinuebeatinguntilcombined.

Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltintoaseparatebowl.Addone-thirdoftheflourtotheyogurtmixtureandmixatlowspeedwithquick,short,on-and-offintervals,occasionallyscrapingdownthesidesofthebowlwithaspatula,untilcombined.Repeattwicemoretoincorporateallofthedryingredients.

Pourthebatterintothepreparedpanandsmooththetopwiththebackofawetspoon.Sprinklethecrystallizedgingeroverthetop,thenbakefor45to55minutes,untilacaketester,bambooskewer,ortoothpickinsertedinthemiddleofthecakecomesoutclean.Letthecakecoolinthepanonawirerackfor20minutes.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEGLAZE:Inasmallbowl,combinethepowderedsugar,matcha,andwaterandwhiskuntilthoroughlycombined.

Removethecakefromthepan,putitontherack,andletcoolcompletelybeforedrizzlingtheglazeoverthetop.Transfertoaservingplatter,slice,andserve.

PistachioOliveOilCakeIdevelopedthisdessertwiththehelpofagoodfriendandrecipegoddess,ChristineMoore,ownerofLittleFlowerCandyCo.inPasadena,California.Thisrichcakeistoppedoffwithacompotethat’spackedwithafruitbasket’sworthofflavor,madefromawholeorangeandlemon,peelandall,andenhancedwithGrandMarnier.Toaddtothevisualappeal,ascatteringofjewel-likeredpomegranateseedsrestsasafinalgarnish.

{MAKESONE9-INCHCAKE;SERVES8TO10}

CAKE⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforgreasingthepan2/3cupshelledpistachios(3ounces),toasted(seeTip)½cupplainunsweetenedsoyyogurt6ouncessoftsilkentofu¾cupsugar1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1cupall-purposeflour½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda¼teaspoonsalt

TOPPING1orange1lemon1cupwater½cupsugar¼cupGrandMarnierorotherorangeliqueur¼cupshelledpistachios(1¼ounces),toasted(seeTip)andcoarsely

chopped¼cupfreshpomegranateseeds

TOMAKETHECAKE:Preheattheovento325°F.Oilthebottomandsides

ofa9-inchcakepan,thenlinewithapieceofparchmentpapercuttofitthebottomofthepanandoiltheparchmentpaper(orusebakingspraywithflour).

Inafoodprocessor,pulsethepistachiosuntilfinelyground.Butdon’toverdoit,orthey’llturnintonutbutter.

Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinetheyogurt,tofu,sugar,oliveoil,andvanillaandbeatatmediumspeeduntilwellcombined.

Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltintoaseparatebowl.Addtothetofumixtureandbeatuntilwellcombined.Addthegroundpistachiosandbeatagainuntilincorporated.

Pourthebatterintothepreparedcakepanandbakefor25to30minutes,untilacaketester,bambooskewer,ortoothpickinsertedinthemiddleofthecakecomesoutclean.Letthecakecoolbriefly,theninvertontoawirerack,removethepan,andletcoolcompletely.

TOMAKETHETOPPING:Slicetheorangeandlemoninhalf,thencutinto¼-inchslices.Removetheseeds.Inamediumsaucepan,combinetheorange,lemon,water,sugar,andGrandMarnier.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,stirringoccasionally,thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthefruitissoftandpliableandstartingtobreakdown,about1hour.

Transferthemixturetoafoodprocessorandpulserepeatedlyuntilthickandchunky.

Spreadthetoppingevenlyoverthetopofthecake.Garnishwithchoppedpistachiosandpomegranateseedsbeforeserving.

CHAPTER3Evening

BloodOrangeMargaritaThisblood-redversionoftheclassicfrozenmargaritafeaturesagavesyrup(obtainedfromthesamespeciesofagaveplantusedtomaketequila)andmanifestsanorange-flavoreddoublethreatwiththebloodorangejuiceandGrandMarnier.Lookforbloodorangesfromlatefalltoearlyspring.Youcanalsopurchasebloodorangejuiceonlineyear-round.

{SERVES4}3cupscrushedice(seeTip)12ouncesbloodorangejuice,preferablyfreshJuiceof1lime6ounces100%agavetequila2ouncesGrandMarnierorotherorange-flavoredliqueur2ouncesagavesyrupBloodorangeslicesforgarnish

Chillfourmargaritaorold-fashionedglassesinthefreezerforatleast10minutes.

Inablender,combinetheice,orangejuice,limejuice,tequila,GrandMarnier,andagavesyrupandblendonhighspeeduntilsmoothandslushy.Serveinthechilledglasseswithabloodorangesliceoneachrimasgarnish.

TIP:Ifyoudon’thavecrushedice,don’tfret;youcanstillhavefrozenmargaritas.Simplyputsomeiceinaheavycanvassackorwrapitinacleankitchentowelandpounditwitharollingpin,ahammer,orthebottomofaheavyskillet.Inapinchyoucanusewholeicecubes,buttheconsistencyofthefinisheddrinkmightnotbeassmooth.Anotheralternativeistoservethemargaritasup.Putthe

orangejuice,limejuice,tequila,GrandMarnier,andagavesyrupinablenderandblenduntilthoroughlycombined,thenpourintofourglassesfilledwithicecubes.

MexicanWhiteRussianThismulticulturaltakeonaWhiteRussianismuchmorecomplexthantheheavydrinkofyourcollegedays.Itmakesuseofhorchata,atraditionalLatinAmericanbeveragetypicallymadewithriceandalmonds.Itsthirst-quenchingpropertiesprovidetheperfectfoiltoanydishwithhotchiles.Youcansubstitutestore-boughthorchata,butIrecommendthatyoumakeitfromscratch;Iguaranteethatitwilltastebetterthananythingthat’sbeensittingontheshelfforamonth.Oneimportantnote:Thehorchataisn’tlabor-intensivetomake,butitisalengthyprocess,somakingthiscocktaildoesrequirethatyouplanahead.

{SERVES1}Icecubes1ouncevodka4ounceshorchata1ounceKahlúaorothercoffeeliqueurCinnamonstickforgarnish

Fillacocktailshakerwithice.Addthevodka,horchata,andKahlúaandshakewell.Fillan8-ounceold-fashionedglassorlowballtumblerwithice.Strainthecocktailintotheglassandaddthedual-purposecinnamonstick,whichservesasbothgarnishandswizzlestick.Serveimmediately.

Horchata

{MAKES6CUPS}½cupwhitejasminerice½cupblanchedrawalmonds(2ounces)One3-to4-inchcinnamonstick,brokenintoafewpieces2cupshotwater1cupsugar4cupscoldwater½teaspoonpurevanillaextract

Inaheatproofbowlorpitcher,combinetherice,almonds,cinnamon,andhotwater.Coverandletsteepatroomtemperatureforatleast6hoursandupto

water.Coverandletsteepatroomtemperatureforatleast6hoursanduptoovernight.

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethesugarandcoldwater.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,andcontinueboilingandstirringuntilthesugardissolves.Setasidetocool.

Transferthericemixturetoablender,includingthecinnamon,andprocessuntilsmooth,about3minutes.Lineacolanderwiththreelayersofdampenedcheesecloth,thenputthecolanderoveralargerbowl.Straintheblendedmixtureintothebowl;bepatientandgiveittimetoseepthrough.Don’tpressthesolidstoextractthemaximumamountofliquid,orthehorchatawillhavesedimentinit.Discardthesolids.Stirthesugarsyrupintothestrainedmixtureandstir.Addthevanillaandstironcemore.Refrigeratethehorchataforatleast1hour,untilwellchilled.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto4days.Stirthehorchatawellbeforeeachuse.

GarbanzoBeanSoccaAregionalspecialtynativetothecityofNiceinthesouthofFrance,soccaisathin,pizzalikeflatbreadmadefromgarbanzobeanflourandoliveoil.TheFrenchhavebeenknowntogetalittlecrankywhenanyoneoutsideofProvenceattemptstomakesocca,butIdon’tseewhywecan’tallgiveitatry.Thatsaid,don’teventhinkofservingitwithanywineotherthanaProvençalrosé.Userawgarbanzobeanflourifyoucanfindit.Otherwise,thetoastedvarietyisfine.

{SERVES6}1¼cupsgarbanzobeanflour1teaspoonsalt1teaspoonchoppedfreshthyme1cupwater6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonchoppedfreshrosemaryFreshlygroundpepperSmokedSpanishorplainpaprikafordusting

Inamediumbowl,combinethegarbanzobeanflour,salt,thyme,water,and2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandwhiskvigorouslyuntiltherearenolumps.Letthebatterrestfor20minutesto1hour.

Positionanovenrack4to5inchesfromthebroilerandputa12-inchovenproofskilletintheoven.Preheattheovento450°F.

Oncetheovenhaspreheated,takeoutthehotskilletandcoatitwith2tablespoonsoliveoil,swirlingtoevenlycoattheinsidesurface.Whiskthebatteronceagain,thenpourallofitintothepreparedskillet.Drizzlethetopwiththeremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil.Bakefor6to8minutes,untiltheedgesbegintodevelopablisteredcrust.Turnonthebroiler,puttheskilletintheoven,andcookjustuntilthetopbeginstobrown,2to3minutes.

Sprinkletherosemaryoverthetop,thendustwiththepepperandpaprika.Cutintowedgesandservewarm.

PARCHMENT

FlatbreadCrackersTheseultrathincrackersareonlymasqueradingasaflatbread.They’reessentiallymadebybakingpastadough,andinfact,ifyouownapastamachine,youcanuseittorolloutthedough(seeTip).Sprinkledwithsaltandaromaticfreshrosemary,thesecrackersareacrisp,rusticsnack,andasbeautifultolookatastheyaredelicious.

{MAKES8;SERVES4TO6}1cupsemolina,plusmorefordusting1cupall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting¾teaspoonsalt,plusmoreforsprinkling¾cupwarmwater2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,orasneeded1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshrosemary1½tablespoonskosherorMaldonseasalt

Inalargebowl,combinethesemolina,flour,andsaltandstiruntilwellmixed.Slowlyaddthewater,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoonuntilthoroughlycombined.Usingyourhands,gatherthedoughandformitintoaball.

Transferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneaduntilfirmandsmoothbutnotsticky,2to3minutes.Coverwithplasticwrapandletrestfor30minutes.

Preheattheovento450°Fandputapizzastoneoraninvertedbakingsheetintheoven.

Dividethedoughintoeightportions,shapethemintoballs,andcoverwithatowelorplasticwrap.Workingwithonepieceofdoughatatimeandkeepingtherestcovered,flattentheballintoadiskwiththepalmofyourhand.Dustyourworksurfaceandrollingpinliberallywithflourandrollthediskintoasthinaroundaspossible.Keepmovingandturningthedoughasyourolltopreventitfromsticking,dustingyourrollingpinandworksurfacewithmoreflourasneeded.Youmayendupwithashapethat’smoreoblongthanround;eitherisfine.Thegoalistoachievearusticshapethat’srolledoutasthinaspossible.Prickdoughwiththetinesofaforkeveryfewinches.

Usingasemolina-dustedpizzapeelorinvertedbakingsheet,transferoneor

Usingasemolina-dustedpizzapeelorinvertedbakingsheet,transferoneortwosheetsofdoughtothepizzastoneorbakingsheetintheoven.Bakefor2minutes,thenremovefromtheovenwithtongsandplaceonacleanworksurface,invertingsothesidethatwastouchingthepizzastonenowfacesup.Brushthetoplightlywitholiveoilandsprinklewithabout3/8teaspoonoftherosemaryand½teaspoonofthesalt.Returntotheoven,oiled-sideupandbakefor2minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Keepacloseeyeonthecracker,asitcanburnquickly.Transfertoawireracktocoolfor5to10minutes.

Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1day.

TIP:Ifyouownapastamachine,youcanuseittorolloutthedough.Onceyou’veshapedthedoughintoeightballs,flattenonepieceintoadisk,thendustitverylightlywithflourusingadrypastrybrushorsprinklingjustabitofflouronbyhand.Setthepastamachineatthewidestsetting(usuallynumber1)andfeedthediskofdoughthrough.Foldtheresultingsheetinhalfandfeedthroughatthesamesettingoncemoretogiveitanextrakneading.Setthemachineonesettingthinner,dustthedoughwithmoreflour,andpassitthroughthemachineonetime.Continueinthisway,eachtimeatthenext-thinnersetting,untilthedoughisthinandalmosttranslucent.Itcouldbeasmuchasafewfeetlong;iflargerthanyourpizzastoneorbakingsheet,cutitinhalfcrosswisetofit.Prickwiththetinesofaforkeveryfewinchesandbakeasdirected.

(No)CheesePlateLet’scuttothechase:cheeseisn’ttheonlyfoodthatcanaccentuatethesubtleflavorofwine.My(No)CheesePlatepaystributetothosefoodsthatoftenaccompanythefromage,whichIhavealwaysfoundmuchmoreinterestinganyway.I’veincludedfigpasteintheshapeofcoins,deepredquincepaste(otherwiseknownasmembrilloinSpain),andthin,sweetpearchips,allpreparedinunusualwaysintendedtobringouttheuniqueflavorsofthesefruits.Toassemblethe(No)CheesePlate,arrangepiecesofthefigpaste,quincepaste,andpearchipsinsmallclusters.Addsomefreshfruit,aheartyloafofbread,andafewSpicedNuts,thenpouryourselfaglassofcrispViognierandputonalittleEdithPiaf.Jeneregretterien…

{SERVES4TO6}

FigPaste1teaspoonfennelseeds¼cuphazelnuts,toastedandskinned(seeTip)1¼cupsstemmed,halveddriedblackMissionfigs1tablespoonbrandy1½teaspoonsbalsamicvinegar1½teaspoonswater⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

Preheattheovento200°F.

Inasmallskillet,toastthefennelseedsovermediumheatjustuntiltheystarttochangecolor.Transfertoaspicemillorcleancoffeegrinderandgrindintoapowder.Inafoodprocessor,combinethehazelnuts,figs,brandy,vinegar,andwaterandprocesstoformapaste.Addthegroundfennelandpepperandpulseuntilevenlyincorporated.

Transferthefigpastetoasheetofaluminumfoil.Shapeitintoarough6-inchlog,thenwrapittightlyinthefoilandrolltoshapeitintoacylinder.Unwrapthefoilandputthelog,stillonthefoil,onabakingsheet.Bakefor20to25minutes,untilthesurfaceofthelogdriesandhardensabit.Coolthelogcompletelybeforewrappingitsecurelyincleanfoil.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2months.Serveslicedintocoins,coldoratroomtemperature.

QuincePaste2poundsripe,fragrantquinces2to3teaspoonscanolaoil2to3cupssugar1tablespoonfreshlemonjuiceFreshbayleaves(optional)4cupswater

Washthequincestoremoveanyfuzzontheskin.Peelandcorethequinces,butdon’tdiscardthepeelsandcores.Inadeepsaucepan,combinethepeelsandcores,andaddwatertocover(about4cups).Bringtoaboilovermedium-high

cores,andaddwatertocover(about4cups).Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,thencontinuetoboil,stirringoccasionally,for30minutes.Strainandreturntheliquidtothesaucepan.Discardthepeelsandcores.

Slicethequinces,addthemtothesaucepan,andbringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Lowertheheatandsimmerfor1hour,stirringoccasionally.Lineafine-meshsievewiththreelayersofcheesecloth,thenpourinthequincemixture.Letmostoftheliquiddrainout,thengatherthecheeseclothandtiewithstringtosecurethebundle.Hangthebundleintherefrigeratorwithacontainerunderneathtocatchtheliquidandletdrainforatleast12hours.

Generouslycoatarimmedbakingsheetwiththecanolaoil.

Usingafoodmillorfoodprocessor,finelygrindthequinceflesh.Measurethequincepurée,thenputitinawide,heavypotwithanequalamountofsugar.Add¼cupofwaterforeach1cupofquincepurée.Cookovermedium-lowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugardissolves.Addthelemonjuice.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmer,stirringfrequentlytopreventscorching,forabout45minutes,untilthepastepullsawayfromthesidesofthepotandthecolorisdarkorange.Beforethepastecools,quicklypouritonthepreparedbakingsheetandspreaditouttoathicknessof¾inch.Coverthetopwithcheeseclothandsetasideinacoolplacefor4days.

Cutinto3-inchsquaresandstackwithfreshbayleaves(ifusing)orparchmentpaperbetweenthelayers.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto1month.

PearChips2slightlyunderripepears¾cupsugar

Preheattheovento200°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper.

Usingamandolineorverysharpknife,cutthepearslengthwiseintoverythinslices;don’tremovetheseedsorcores.Putthesugaronaplate,thendipthepearsslicesinthesugar,turningtocoatbothsides.Transfertothepreparedbakingsheet,arrangingtheminasinglelayer.

Bakeforabout1hour,untiltheedgesofthepearsbegintocurl.Turntheslicesoverandbakeforanother1hourorso,untilgoldenbrown.Transferthepearstoawirerack.Coolbeforeserving.

GrilledTofuGrapeLeavesTechnically,thesearestuffedgrapeleaves,buttheyaren’treallydolmas,thosetraditionalMiddleEasternappetizersusuallystuffedwithrice.Inthisversion,tofuismarinatedinaProvençalmixtureofoliveoil,oregano,thyme,mint,andgarlic.Thenit’sbundledupintotidygrape-leafpackagestiedwithkitchentwineandgrilled.Besuretostoreunopenedjarsofgrapeleavesinacool,darkplacesotheleaveskeeptheircolor.

{SERVES6TO8}36grapeleavespackedinbrine1cupfreshlemonjuice2cupsextra-virginoliveoil¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshoregano¼cupchoppedfreshthyme¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshmint8garliccloves1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1¾poundsextra-firmtofu,drainedandcutcrosswiseintoeighteen½-

inchslices

Fillalargesaucepanwithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Putthegrapeleavesintheboilingwater,removefromtheheat,andletsoakfor20minutes.Drain,thenfillthepotwithfresh,coldwater.Drainandrepeat,fillingthepotwithcoldwateranddrainingonceagain.Spreadtheleavesonafewcleankitchentowelstodryabit.

Inamediumbowl,combinethelemonjuice,oliveoil,oregano,thyme,mint,garlic,salt,andpepperandwhiskuntilthoroughlycombined.Addthetofuslicesandmarinateforatleast1houranduptoovernight,turningonce.

Onacleanworksurface,arrangetwograpeleaves,oneslightlyoverlappingtheother.Placeasliceofthemarinatedtofuinthecenter,thenfoldtheleavesovertocompletelyencasethetofulikeapackage.Securewithkitchentwine.Putthepacketinalarge,shallowbakingpan,thenrepeatwiththeremaininggrape

leavesandtofu.Pourtheremainingmarinadeoverthepackets.

Prepareamedium-hotoutdoorgrillorheatagrillpanonthestovetopovermedium-highheat.Grillthepacketsuntilthegrapeleavesarebrownedandcrispybutnotfallingapart,about2minutesperside.Transfertoaplatterandserverightaway.

YubaSpringRollsMostWesternersaren’tfamiliarwithyuba,butIhaveafeelingthat’sabouttochange.AtraditionalfoodfromChinaandJapan,yubaistheskinthatformsonthesurfaceofheatedsoymilk.It’sgentlyliftedoffthesimmeringsoymilkinsheetsandeitherusedfreshordriedandthenreconstituted.Ithasaslightlynuttyflavorandachewytexture.Yubaisavailableatmostwell-stockedAsianmarkets;however,ifitprovesdifficulttofind,packagedeggrollwrappersmakeanacceptablesubstitute.

{MAKES12ROLLS;SERVES6ASANAPPETIZER}3tablespoonspeanutoil,plusmoreforfrying10ouncesshiitakemushrooms,stemmedandsliced6ouncesextra-firmtofu,drained4greenonions(whiteandgreenparts),thinlyslicedOne2-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandcutintothinmatchsticks4garliccloves,minced3tablespoonssoysauce3tablespoonstoastedsesameoil3tablespoonsmirinorChinesesweetcookingwine1tablespoontapiocastarch1½teaspoonswater12sheetsfreshordriedyubaor6-inchsquareeggrollwrappers

Inamediumskillet,heat2tablespoonsofthepeanutoilovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsandsautéuntilsoftened,3to5minutes.Transfertoalargebowl(noneedtocleantheskillet).

Patthetofulightlywithapapertowelorcleankitchentoweltoremoveexcessmoisture,thencutitinto½-inchdice.Inthesameskillet,heattheremaining1tablespoonofpeanutoilovermediumheat.Addthegreenonions,ginger,andtofuandsautéfor2to3minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.Transfertothebowlalongwithmushrooms.

Inasmallbowl,combinethesoysauce,sesameoil,andmirinandstiruntilwellmixed.Pour3tablespoonsofthemixtureoverthemushroomsandtofuandstirgentlytocombine.Reservetheremainingsoysaucemixturetouseasa

stirgentlytocombine.Reservetheremainingsoysaucemixturetouseasadippingsauce.

Inasmallbowl,combinethetapiocastarchandwaterandmixtoformapaste.

Ifusingdriedyuba,soakthesheetsincoldwaterfor5minutes,thendrainandstackbetweenslightlydampkitchentowels.

Trimthesheetsofyubato6-inchsquares.Onacleanworksurface,placeonesheetinfrontofyouatadiagonal.Place2to3tablespoonsofthetofumixtureonthecornerclosesttoyou.Liftingthecornerpoint,gentlyfoldtheyubaandfillingovertowardthecenterofthesheet.Foldtheleftandrightcornerstowardthecentertoenclosethefillingonthesides.Thencontinuerollingawayfromyouuntilyoureachthetopcorner.Securetherollbydippingafingerinthebowloftapiocastarchandusingittopastethetopcorneroftheyubasheettotheroll.Repeatwiththeremainingsheets.

Inalarge,heavyskillet,heat1inchofpeanutoilovermedium-highheat.Frytherollsuntilgoldenbrown,about1minuteoneachside.Transfertopapertowelsorawirecoolingracktodrain.Stirthereservedsoysaucemixturewell,thenserveitalongsidetheyubarollsasadippingsauce.

TomatoandThree-BeanSaladThissalad,withitscombinationoffreshgreenbeans,roastedcherrytomatoes,andtwovarietiesofcookedbeanshasenoughcolorandtexturetokeepallofyoursensesbusy.Usingcannedbeansisaconvenience,butifyou’refeelingambitious,gotheextramileandcookupsomedriedbeanstouseinstead.Youcouldalsogetcreativeandswapoutothervarietiesofbeansforthekidneyandbutterbeansandthesaladwillbejustasdelicious.

{SERVES4TO6}1pintcherrytomatoes1½teaspoonssalt1poundfreshgreenbeans,trimmed1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil4shallots,thinlyslicedOne15-ouncecanredkidneybeans,drainedOne15-ouncecanbutterbeans,drained1cupcoarselychoppedfreshparsley⅓cupWendy’sVinaigretteFreshlygroundpepper1lemon,cutintowedges

Preheattheovento375°F.

Forcherrytomatoeslessthan½inchindiameter,leavethemwhole;cutlargeronesinhalf.Putthetomatoesonarimmedbakingsheetcut-sideupandsprinklewith1teaspoonofthesalt.Bakefor40minutes,untilthetopsbegintoslightlychar.Setasidetocool.

Meanwhile,prepareanice-waterbathbyfillingalargebowlwithiceandwater.

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addthegreenbeansandcookuntiltender,5to8minutes.Drain,thenimmediatelyplungethebeansintotheice-waterbathtostopthecookingprocessandsetthebeautifulgreencolorofthebeans.Whencooled,drainthebeansandspreadthemonacleankitchentoweltodry.

Inasmallskillet,heattheoliveoilovermedium-lowheat.Addtheshallotsandsautéuntiltheybegintocaramelize,5to6minutes.Seasonwiththeremaining½teaspoonsaltandremovefromtheheat.

Inalargemixingbowlorsaladbowl,combinethegreenbeans,kidneybeans,butterbeans,andparsley,thenaddtheshallotsandtomatoes,includinganyjuicesintheirpans.Stirgentlytocombine,thendrizzlethevinaigretteovereverything.Tossgentlyuntileverythingisevenlycoated.Seasonwithpepper,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningifyoulike.Squeezethelemonwedgesoverthesaladjustbeforeserving.

MoroccanOrangeSaladLikeanoasisinthedesert,thisperfumedsaladcombinesanexoticarrayofingredientswithsweet,juicyoranges.Pomegranatemolasses(asweet-tartsyrupyreductionofpurepomegranatejuice),threevarietiesoforangeflavor,nuts,anddriedfruitareinterwoventocreateatapestryofcolorandscents.

{SERVES6}12oranges⅓cuppomegranatemolasses⅓cupagavesyrup¼cupGrandMarnierorotherorangeliqueur2teaspoonsorangeblossomwater12dates,pittedandchopped⅓cupshelledpistachios,toasted(seeTip)andchopped3tablespoonschoppedfreshmint

Workingoveralargebowltocatchthejuice,useasharpparingknifetotrimthepeelandwhitepithawayfromtheoranges.Removetheseedsandcutinto1-inchdice,orsimplyseparatethesections.

Inasmallbowl,combinethepomegranatemolasses,agavesyrup,GrandMarnier,andorangeblossomwaterandstiruntilsmooth.

Inalargeservingbowl,combinetheoranges,dates,andpistachiosandstirgentlyuntilwellcombined.

Toservethesaladchilled,refrigeratetheorangemixturefor1to2hours,oryoucanserveitrightawayatroomtemperature.Ineithercase,justbeforeserving,pourthepomegranatemolassesmixtureoverthesalad,stirgentlyuntileverythingisevenlycoated,thengarnishwiththemint.

BrusselsSproutSlawIfyouhavememoriesofbeingforcedtoeatBrusselssproutsboiled,overcooked,andsoggy,don’tholdthatagainstthisdiminutivecruciferousvegetable.TheBrusselssproutsinthisdishareservedraw,preservingtheirformidablenutritionalprofileandallowingtheirflavortosing.Ifanyoneatyourtablefallsintotheanti–Brusselssproutscontingency,theyshouldbepleasantlydisarmedwhentheyrealizewhatthey’reeating.

{SERVES6}2poundsBrusselssprouts1cupwalnuts(4ounces),toasted(seeTip)andcoarselychopped¼cupnutritionalyeastflakes2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

WashtheBrusselssproutsanddiscardanydiscoloredouterleaves.Trimawaythebaseandgentlyseparatethelayersofleaves.Transfertheleavestoabowl.Addthewalnuts,nutritionalyeast,oliveoil,andlemonjuice.Tossuntileverythingiswellcombined.Seasonwiththesaltandpepperandtossoncemore.Serveimmediately.

LapsangSouchongRiceLapsangsouchongisasmokedblackteafromChina.HereIuseittoimpartitsdistinctaromaandtastetorice.Dependingonhowmuchsmokinessyouwant,youcansteepthericeintheteabrieflyorreallygiveittimetosoakin.Ifyou’rearealfanoftheflavor,youcanevenleavethetealeavesinthericewhileitcooks.ThisriceisaniceaccompanimentforBroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushrooms.

{SERVES4}2½tablespoonsLapsangsouchongtealeaves2cupsboilingwater1½cupswhitejasminerice1teaspoonsalt

Inaheatproofbowlorteapot,combinetheteaandboilingwater.Coverandletsteepfor5minutes.Strainthroughafine-meshsievesetoveramediumsaucepanandletcool.

Inalargebowl,rinsethericewithcoldwateruntilthewaterrunsclear.Drainandaddtothetea.Stirinthesaltandletsitfor30minutes.

Putthesaucepanovermedium-highheatandbringtoaboil.Lowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedandthericeistender,15to20minutes.Letstandfor5minutesbeforeserving.

NuttyMushroomRisottoMakingrisottoneednotbesodaunting.Ittrulyisn’tcomplex.Theonlythingyouneedtomakegreatrisottoispatience;youcannotcutcornersormultitaskwhilepreparingthisdish.Ifyouwantthatcreamyconsistencycharacteristicofauthenticrisotto,youmuststirthedishconstantlyduringcooking,addingthestockslowlyandrepeatedlyasdirected.

{SERVES4}6cupsvegetablestock,preferablyhomemade(seerecipe)4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil10ouncesmixedwildmushrooms(suchasoyster,chanterelle,or

stemmedshiitake)thinlysliced2teaspoonschoppedfreshthyme,plus4sprigsfreshthymeforgarnish¾cupfinelychoppedshallots1cupArboriorice½cupdrywhitewine½cuphazelnuts(2ounces),toastedandskinned(seeTip)andcoarsely

choppedSaltFreshlygroundpepper

Inamediumsaucepan,bringthestocktoasimmerovermediumheat.Adjusttheheattomaintainasimmerasyoupreparethericeandmushrooms.

Inalargesaucepan,heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthemushroomsandsautéuntilsoftened,2to3minutes.Addthethymeandsautéfor1minute.Transfertoabowl.

Addtheremaining3tablespoonsoliveoiltothesaucepan,stillovermediumheat.Addtheshallotsandsautéuntiltranslucent,2minutes.Addthericeandcook,stirringconstantly,for3to4minutes.Addthewineandcontinuetocook,stirringconstantly,untilalmostallofthewinehasbeenabsorbedbytherice.

Addaladlefulofthesimmeringstocktothericeandcontinuetocook,stirringconstantly,untilalmostallofthestockhasbeenabsorbed.Addanother

ladlefulofstockandcontinuecookinginthesameway,stirringcontinuouslyandaddingmorestockeachtimethericehasabsorbedalmostallofthepreviousaddition.Thisentireprocesswilltakeabout15to20minutes;intheend,thericeshouldberichandcreamybutstillaldente,firmwithsomeresistance.

Addthemushroomsandhazelnutsandstirgentlytocombine.Removefromtheheatandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Serveimmediatelyinwarmedbowls,garnishedwiththethymesprigs.

PolentaWITHWILDMUSHROOMS,HAZELNUTS,ANDFIGS

Wildmushrooms,hazelnuts,figs,andthymeallmakemethinkofthePacificNorthwest,soIcameupwiththisdishtoshowcasetheearthyflavorsofanOregonforest.Theblackcurrantdressingmakesforasnazzypresentationthat’sguaranteedtoimpress.Whilethepreparationmayseemabitelaborate,thisdishiswellworththeeffort.Andifyoulike,youcanpreparethepolentaandlentilsinadvance.

{SERVES4}

FIGS4driedblackMissionfigs,stemmed1cupblackcurrantjuiceor100%pomegranatejuice

BLACKCURRANTDRESSINGReservedblackcurrantjuice(fromthefigs)1½teaspoonsDijonmustardJuiceof½lime2teaspoonsmincedshallot1tablespooncrèmedecassis1tablespoonredwine2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar½cuphazelnutoilSaltFreshlygroundpepper3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforoilingthepanand

brushing9cupswaterSalt2cupspolenta1cupFrenchgreenlentils,rinsedanddrained

Freshlygroundpepper2tablespoonschoppedshallot10ouncesmixedwildmushrooms(suchasoyster,chanterelle,and

stemmedshiitake),thinlysliced2tablespoonshazelnuts,toastedandskinned(seeTip)andfinely

chopped1teaspoonchoppedfreshthymeBabylettuce,arugula,ormicrogreensforgarnish

TOPREPARETHEFIGS:Putthefigsinasmallbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,bringtheblackcurrantjuicetoaboiloverhighheat.Pourthejuiceoverthefigsandletstandfor30minutes.Drain,reservingthejuice,andcoarselychopthefigs.

TOMAKETHEDRESSING:Inasmallsaucepan,heatthereservedblackcurrantjuiceovermediumheat.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilreducedtoabout2tablespoons,20to30minutes.Transferthereductiontoablender.Addthemustard,limejuice,shallot,crèmedecassis,wine,andvinegarandblenduntilsmooth.Withthemotorrunning,slowlydrizzleinthehazelnutoilandblenduntilthemixtureisthickandsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thentransfertoasqueezebottleorbowl.

Lightlycoata9-inchsquarebakingpanwitholiveoil.Inalargesaucepan,combine6cupsofthewaterandsaltoverhighheat.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,thenslowlyaddthepolenta,whiskingconstantlyandvigorouslytobreakupanylumps.Lowertheheattomaintainagentleboilandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilverythickandpullingawayfromthesidesofthepan,about20minutes.Pourthepolentaintothepreparedpanandusethebackofawetspoonorawetspatulatospreaditinaneven,flatlayerandsmooththesurface.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast15minutes.

Putthelentilsinamediumsaucepanandaddtheremaining3cupswater.Coverandbringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilsoft,30to45minutes.Drain,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Inalargeskillet,heatthe3tablespoonsoliveoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallotandmushroomsandsautéuntilsoftened,2to3minutes.Addthefigs,hazelnuts,andthymeandsautéfor3to4minutes.

Preheatamedium-hotoutdoorgrillorheatagrillpanonthestovetopover

Preheatamedium-hotoutdoorgrillorheatagrillpanonthestovetopovermedium-highheat.Cutfour3-inchcirclesofpolentausingabiscuitcutter,glass,or,inapinch,alargecanwiththetopandbottomremoved.(Savethescrapsforanotheruse.)Brusholiveoilonbothsidesofthepolentaandgrilluntilthebottomisbrownedandthepolentanolongerstickstothegrill,about5minutes.Turnandgrilltheothersideuntilbrowned,about5minutes.

Reheatthelentilsandmushroomsifneedbe.Spoonone-fourthofthelentilsina4-inchpoolinthecenterofeachplate.Placeapolentaroundontopofthelentils.Spoonone-fourthofthemushroommixtureoverthepolenta,thentopwithafewleavesofthebabylettuce.Drizzle2to3tablespoonsofthedressingoverthetopandaroundeachplateandserveimmediately,withtheremainingdressingalongside.

CeleryRootandFennelChowderRichandcreamyasanyNewEngland–stylechowder,thisverdantsoupblendsceleryrootandsweetfennelwithchunkypotatoesinavegetable-onlyversion.ThewordchowderisacorruptionoftheFrenchchaud,or“hot,”buttomechowderjustmeansthrowingabunchofingredientsthatgowelltogetherintoapot,voilàtout.Fortheperfectchowderytexture,besuretodiceormincethevegetablesprecisely.However,inthespiritofanunfussyMainefisherman,don’tworrytoomuchabouttheproportions—justresisttheurgetothrowinsomeoystercrackers.

{SERVES4TO6}1largefennelbulb,trimmedandthinlysliced,plus2tablespoonsof

fennelfrondsreservedforgarnish2to3leeks,whitepartonly,wellcleanedandthinlysliced2largepotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice1or2shallots,minced3garliccloves,minced1cupmincedfreshparsley1teaspoonmincedfreshthyme2teaspoonsfennelseeds2teaspoonssalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper¼teaspoonredpepperflakes¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1largeceleryroot,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice6cupswater

Inadeepsouppot,combinetheslicedfennel,leeks,potatoes,shallots,garlic,parsley,thyme,fennelseeds,salt,pepper,andredpepperflakes.Drizzletheoliveoiloverthetop,thenstirwelluntilthevegetablesareevenlycoated.Putthepotovermedium-lowheat,cover,andsimmerfor15to20minutes,stirringafewtimestokeepthevegetablesfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.

Stirintheceleryrootandwater.Raisetheheattomedium-highandbringtoaboil.Continuetocookataboil,stirringoccasionally,untiltheceleryrootis

toaboil.Continuetocookataboil,stirringoccasionally,untiltheceleryrootistender,about20minutes.

Transferhalfofthemixturetoablenderandprocessuntilsmooth.Pourthepuréebackintothesouppotandstiruntilwellmixed.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningsifyoulike.Serveinwarmedsoupbowlsgarnishedwiththefennelfronds.

CONFUSEDArtichokeSoup

Pitythepoor,confusedJerusalemartichoke.It’snotfromJerusalem,andit’snotrelatedtotheartichoke.It’salsoknownasthesunchoke,sinceit’sactuallytherootofaplantinthesunflowerfamily.IpersonallylikethenameJerusalemartichoke,asitlendsanairoftheexotic.Asagesturetowardresolvingthistuber’slong-standingidentitycrisis,Icameupwiththisrecipetoshowcaseitsfinequalities,thendevelopedthevariationtohighlightthedistinctdifferencesbetweentheJerusalemartichokeandtheequallydelicioustrueartichoke.Thehomemadeaiolidrizzleisanicetouch,butifyoudon’thavethetimeorinclinationtomakeit,youcansubstituteVegenaise,madebyFollowYourHeart,withafewpressedgarlicclovesmixedin.

{SERVES4}2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1largeyellowonion,chopped3garliccloves,peeledandcoarselychopped1½poundsJerusalemartichokes,peeledandcutinto1-inchdice5cupsvegetablestock,preferablyhomemade(seerecipe)½teaspoonsalt1or2grindsofblackpepper4tablespoonsVeganAiolifordrizzling

Inalargesaucepan,heattheoliveoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandsautéuntilsoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.AddtheJerusalemartichokes,stock,salt,andpepperandbringtoaboil.Lowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthevegetablesaretender,10to15minutes.

Inablender,blendthesoupinsmallbatchesuntilsmooth.Returnthepuréetothepanandstirwell.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifyoulike.Ladleintowarmedsoupbowlsanddrizzle1tablespoonoftheaioliovereachbeforeserving.

VARIATION:

ArtichokeHeartSoup

Substitute1poundofthawedfrozenartichokeheartsfortheJerusalemartichokes.

VeganAioli

{MAKES¾CUP}4ouncessoftsilkentofu1tablespoonvinegar(riceorcider)½teaspoonDijonmustard1tablespoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt2garliccloves,minced½teaspoonlemonzest3threadssaffron2tablepoonscanolaoil2tablepoonsoliveoil

Inafoodprocessororblender,combinethetofu,vinegar,mustard,sugar,salt,garlic,lemonzestandsaffronandprocessuntilsmooth.Withthemachinerunning,drizzleinthecanolaoilandoliveoilinathin,slowstreamandcontinueprocessinguntiltheaioliissmoothandemulsified.Theaioliwillkeep,refrigeratedandcovered,forupto3days.

RoastedBrownBagVegetablesThisrusticdishpairsroastedvegetables(threerootvegetablesandonethistle)withahomemadeaioli.Eachvegetableiscombinedwithacomplementaryherbandroastedslowlyenpapillote,inthiscaseinitsownprivatepaperbag.Thisisafundishforadinnerparty,withthebagspullingdoubleduty,transformingintouniqueservingcontainersatthetable.

{SERVES6}

ARTICHOKESJuiceof1lemon2poundsbabyartichokes1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

4sprigsfreshthyme½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

POTATOES12ouncesRussianfingerlingpotatoes1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil8garliccloves,unpeeled,smashed4smallsprigsfreshrosemary1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

CARROTS8ouncesbabycarrots,trimmedto2inches,orlargecarrotscutinto2-

inchpieces1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonchoppedfreshparsley½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

ONIONS12ouncespearlonions,preferablyamixofred,white,andyellow1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil8garliccloves,unpeeled,smashed1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshsage½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper¾cupVeganAioliforserving

Preheattheovento400°F.

TOPREPARETHEARTICHOKES:Fillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthelemonjuice.Trimthedark,toughouterleavesfromtheartichokes,stoppingwhenyoureachthetender,yellowishgreeninnerleaves.Usingasmall,sharpknife,cutoffthetop½inchofeachartichoke.Trimthestemsandallremaining

darkgreenareasfromthebase.Asyoufinishtrimmingeachartichoke,putitinthelemonwatertopreventdiscoloring.Youshouldendupwithabout1poundoftrimmedartichokes.

Draintheartichokes,thendrythemwithacleankitchentowel.Inalargebowl,combinetheartichokes,oliveoil,thyme,salt,andpepper.Tossuntiltheartichokesareevenlycoated,thentransfertoacleanbrownpaperlunchbag.Folddownthetopcoupleofinchesofthebag,theninvertthebag,fold-sidedown,onabakingsheet.

TOPREPARETHEPOTATOES:Cleanthepotatoes,usingascrubbrushifnecessarytoremoveanydirt.Leavetheirskinson.Inthesamebowlusedfortheartichokes,combinethepotatoes,oliveoil,garlic,rosemary,salt,andpepper.Tossuntilthepotatoesareevenlycoated,thentransfertoacleanbrownpaperlunchbag.Folddownthetopcoupleofinchesofthebag,thenputit,fold-sidedown,onthebakingsheetnexttotheartichokes.

TOPREPARETHECARROTS:Cleanthecarrotswithascrubbrush.Ifcarrotsarelongerthanthewidthofthepaperbag,trimthemdowntofit.Inthesamebowl,combinethecarrots,oliveoil,parsley,salt,andpepper.Tossuntilthecarrotsareevenlycoated,thentransfertoacleanbrownpaperlunchbag.Folddownthetopcoupleofinchesofthebag,thenputit,fold-sidedown,onthebakingsheetnexttothepotatoes.

TOPREPARETHEONIONS:Leavetheskinsontheonions.Inthesamebowl,combinetheonions,oliveoil,garlic,sage,salt,andpepper.Tossuntiltheonionsareevenlycoated,thentransfertoacleanbrownpaperlunchbag.Folddownthetopcoupleofinchesofthebag,thenputit,fold-sidedown,onthebakingsheetnexttothecarrots.

Putthebakingsheetwiththefourbagsofvegetablesintheovenandroastfor1hour.Letcooluntilyoucanhandlethepapercomfortably.Inverteachbag,placingitright-sideup,andopenthebagcompletely.Rolldownthetopofeachbaguntilthevegetablesareexposed,beingcarefulnottotearthepaper,whichmayhavebecomebrittleintheoven.

Servethebagsonatrayorplatter,withtheaiolialongsideinabowlfordippingandleteveryonehelpthemselves.Provideasmallemptybowlforthegarlicandonionsskins.

PotatoTortePotatoandtortearetwoofmyfavoritewords,nottomentiontwoofmyfavoritefoods,soIthought,“Whynotputthemtogether?”Thethinslicesofpotatoarecoatedwithasavorymixtureofoliveoil,garlic,androsemary.Tapiocastarchandlecithinhelpbindthelayerstogether,butyoucanomitthemifyoupreferaflakiertexture.Thespringformpanhelpsgivethedishitsheight,makingforanimpressivepresentation.Plus,unlikeastandardbakingpan,it’seasytoremoveafterbaking.Don’tfightwithyourtablematesforthecrispycrustontop;therewillbeplentytogoaround.

{SERVES8}¾cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforoilingthepan2tablespoonstapiocastarch2tablespoonsunsweetenedplainsoymilk2tablespoonsliquidlecithin3garliccloves,minced2teaspoonssalt1teaspooncoarselygroundpepper2teaspoonsmincedfreshrosemary4poundsYukongoldorotherbakingpotatoes,unpeeled3teaspoonsnutritionalyeastflakes,orasneeded

Preheattheovento400°F.Coata9-inchspringformpanwitholiveoilandputitonarimmedbakingsheet.

Inasmallbowl,combinethetapiocastarchandsoymilkandstirtoformathickpaste.Inalargebowl,combinetheoliveoil,lecithin,garlic,salt,pepper,rosemary,andtapiocamixtureandwhiskuntilwellcombined.

Cleanthepotatoes,usingascrubbrushifnecessarytoremoveanydirt,thendrythemwithacleankitchentowel.Usingamandolineorasharpknife,cutthepotatoeslengthwiseinto⅛-inchslices.Addthemtotheoliveoilmixtureandtossgentlyuntilevenlycoated.

Layerone-fourthofthepotatoslicesinthebottomofthepreparedspringformpan,overlappingeachpieceslightlyontopoftheprevioustoforma

circularfanshape.Sprinkle1teaspoonofthenutritionalyeastoverthepotatoes.Continuelayeringthepotatoesandsprinklingtheyeast,endingwithafinallayerofpotatoes.Drizzleanyremainingoilfromthebowloverthetop.Oilasheetofparchmentpaperorfoil,thenplaceitontopofthetorte,oiled-sidedown.Pressdownontheparchmentpapertocompressthepotatolayersasmuchaspossible.

Bakefor1hour,thenremovetheparchmentpaperandbakefor30minutes,untilaskewereasilypiercesallthewaythroughthetorte.

Letcooltoroomtemperature.Carefullyloosenthepanandseparatethetortefromthepanwithaspatula.Cutintowedgesandserve.

PoblanoChilesRellenosPoblanochilesareamild,mediumtolargepepperalltoooftenmislabeled“pasillas”insupermarkets.Herethey’refilledwithasavorymixtureoffreshcornandzucchini.Thecremawillblowyourmind,asthecashewsaretransformedintoasilky-smoothcreamwiththemostincredibleflavor.Aslightlyacidictomatillo-cilantrosauceprovidestheperfectcomplementaryfinaltouch.

{SERVES4}4poblanochiles

TOMATILLOSALSA8ouncestomatillos,huskedandrinsed4shallots,unpeeled4garliccloves,unpeeled1bayleaf1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil2tablespoonsfreshlimejuice2teaspoonstequila¼cupmincedfreshcilantro½teaspoonseasalt1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1¼cupscornkernels(fromabout2earsofcorn)½mediumredonion,diced1cupchoppedzucchini,cutinto¼-inchdice½teaspoonseasalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoonmincedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonsmincedfreshchives1recipeCashewCremaCilantrosprigsforgarnish

Preheattheovento400°F.

Roastthepoblanosoveramediumtohighgasflameoneitherthestovetoporanoutdoorgrill.Usetongstoturnthepeppersrepeatedlyuntilmostoftheskinischarred,blackened,andslightlyblistered.Becarefulnottoovercookthepeppers,ortheymaysplitandbedifficulttopeel.Puttheminaheatproofbowlandcoverwithaplateorplasticwraptoallowthemtosteam.

Whentheroastedpeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,gentlypeelawaytheskinusingyourfingersorasmallparingknife.Resisttheurgetorunthepeppersunderwater,asthiswillremovetheirnicesmokyflavor.Makeaslitdownonesideofeachpepperbelowthestem.Leavethestemintactandremovetheseeds.

TOMAKETHESALSA:Inalargebowl,combinethetomatillos,shallots,garlic,bayleafandoliveoil.Spreadthemixtureonarimmedbakingsheetandbakefor12to15minutes,untilthetomatillosareslightlycharredandhavereleasedsomeoftheirjuices.Removefromtheovenandlowertheoventemperatureto375°F.

Whencoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardthebayleafandtheskinsfromtheshallotsandgarlic.Transferthetomatillos,shallots,garlic,andanypanjuicestoablender.Addthelimejuice,tequila,cilantro,andsaltandblenduntilsmooth.

Spoonhalfofthesalsaintoa9-by-13-inchbakingpanandspreadtoevenlycoverthebottom.

Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthecorn,onion,andzucchiniandsautéuntiltheonionistranslucent,5to8minutes.Stirinthesaltandpepper,thentransfertoalarge,cleanbowl.

Stirtheparsleyandchivesintothecrema,thenaddthecrematothecornmixtureandstirgentlyuntilwellmixed.

Stuffeachpepperwithone-fourthofthecornmixture(about½cup).Arrangethepeppersinthebakingpanontopofthesalsa.Bakefor25minutes,untilheatedthrough.Spoontheremainingsalsaoverthepeppers.Garnishwiththecilantrosprigs,andserverightaway.

EggplantParma-StyleParma,acityintheItalianregionofEmilia-Romagna,iswell-knownforitsarchitectureand,ofcourse,itscuisine.Thisrecipeincorporatessomeofthebestthatcuisinehastooffer.Foroptimumflavor,makethisdishinsummer,withthefreshestlocaleggplantandbasil,justastheinhabitantsofParmawould.Thatwayyoucanalsomakethesaucefromscratchusingfresh,wholetomatoes.Still,youmaywanttomakethisheartydishinwinter,inwhichcasecannedtomatoesareprobablyyourbestbet,sothat’swhattherecipeactuallycallsfor.Isuggestyousplurgeandusenotjustanycannedtomatoes,butcannedtomatoesfromSanMarzano,Italy.TheseflavorfulplumtomatoesaregrowninthevolcanicsoilbeneathMountVesuvius.ThoughnowherenearParma,theyaresospecialtheyhavetheirownDOC(denominazionedioriginecontrollata),asealthatstipulatestheycanonlycomefromSanMarzano.Readlabelscloselyanddon’tbefooledbyimitationsthatusetomatoesgrownintheUnitedStates.

{SERVES4TO6}2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforoilingthepanand

frying½mediumyellowonion,minced2garliccloves,mincedOne28-ouncecancrushedordicedtomatoes,preferablySanMarzano

(tousefreshtomatoes,seeTip)2largeeggplantsSaltFreshlygroundpepper1teaspoondriedoregano,or1tablespoonmincedfreshoregano2tablespoonsmincedfreshflat-leafparsley1recipeCashewCrema1bunchfreshbasil,stemmedandleavestornintolargepieces3tablespoonsdriedbreadcrumbs

Preheattheovento400°F.Coatan8-inchsquarebakingpanwitholiveoil.

Inalargeskillet,heatthe2tablespoonsoliveoilovermedium-lowheat.Addtheonionandsautéuntilsoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.Addthe

Addtheonionandsautéuntilsoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.Addthetomatoesandtheirjuicesandcook,stirringoccasionallyuntilthick,25to30minutes.Letcool,thentransfertoablenderorfoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.

Trimtheendsoftheeggplants,thencuttheeggplantslengthwiseinto¼-inch-thickslices.Inalargeskillet,heat¼inchofoliveoilovermedium-highheat.Putasmanyeggplantslicesaswillfitintheskilletandcookuntilgoldenbrown,turningonce,2to3minutesperside.Transfertopapertowelstodrain,thenseasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Repeatwiththeremainingeggplant.

Stirtheoreganoand1tablespoonoftheparsleyintothecrema.

Spreadone-fourthofthetomatosauce(about½cup)onthebottomofthepreparedpan,thenarrangeone-thirdoftheeggplantslicesontopofthesauce.Sprinkleone-thirdofthebasilleavesovertheeggplantslices.Spreadone-thirdofthecrema(about½cup)evenlyoverthebasilleaves.Repeatthelayerstwomoretimes:sauce,eggplant,basil,andcrema.Spreadtheremainingsauceoverthelastlayerofcrema,thensprinklethebreadcrumbsoverthetop.

Bakefor45to60minutes,untilthetopisbeginningtobrownandthejuicesarebubbling.Letstandfor15minutestosetupbeforecuttingandserving.

TIP:Tomakethesauceusingfresh,peak-of-seasontomatoes,bringalargepotofwatertoaboiland,workinginbatches,blanch4to5poundsoftomatoesuntiltheirskinssplitandblister(30to40seconds).Usingaslottedspoon,transferthetomatoestoanicebath.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peeltheskinsaway,halvethetomatoes,andscoopoutanddiscardtheseeds.Coarselychopthetomatoesandusetheminplaceofthecannedtomatoesintherecipe.

ZucchiniLasagnaWITHPESTO

Inthisunconventionallasagna,blanchedleekandribbonsofroastedzucchinistandinforthenoodles,andathickpinenutcremareplacesthericotta.Butinanodtotradition,it’ssmotheredinasaucemadefromSanMarzanotomatoes,alongwithagarlickybasilpesto.Likesomanycasseroles,thislasagnaisevenbetterthenextday…ifthere’sanyleft,thatis.Onenote:Thepreparationtimeislengthy(thoughmostofitisn’thands-ontime).Readthroughtherecipe

thoroughlyandplanaccordingly.

{SERVES6}

VEGETABLES4largetomatoes,preferablyheirloom,cutcrosswise¼inchthick4mediumzucchini,cutlengthwise¼inchthick1teaspoonextra-virginoliveoilSalt1largeleek,atleast2inchesindiameter

PINENUTCREMA1cuprawpinenuts(4ounces)1cuprawcashewpieces(5ounces)2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonnutritionalyeastflakes½cupwater½teaspoonseasalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

TOMATOSAUCE2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil½mediumyellowonion,choppedOne28-ouncecancrushedtomatoes,preferablySanMarzano(touse

freshtomatoes,seeTip)One6-ouncecantomatopaste1teaspoondriedoregano1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepperPinchofredpepperflakes

PESTO3garliccloves

½cupwalnuts(2ounces),toasted(seeTip)2cupspackedfreshbasilleaves¼teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper½cupextra-virginoliveoilExtra-virginoliveoilforoilingthepan¾cupdriedbreadcrumbsFreshbasilleavesforgarnish

TOPREPARETHEVEGETABLES:Preheattheovento350°F.Arrangethetomatoesandzucchiniinasinglelayeronarimmedbakingsheet,keepingthemseparate.Drizzlewiththeoliveoil,sprinklelightlywithsalt,andbakefor1hour,untilthetomatoeshavelostmostoftheirmoisture.

Meanwhile,trimawaythedarkgreenpartsandrootendoftheleek.Carefullycutlengthwisehalfwaythroughtheleek.Separatethelayersandrinsethoroughlytoremoveanygrit.Fillamediumsaucepanwithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Addtheleekstripsandblanchforjust10to15seconds,thendrainimmediately.

ASTHETOMATOANDZUCCHINICONTINUETOBAKE,MAKETHECREMA:Inafoodprocessor,combinealloftheingredientsandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy,2to3minutes.

ASTHEVEGETABLESCONTINUETOBAKE,MAKETHETOMATOSAUCE:Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoliveoilovermediumheatandsautétheonionuntiltranslucent,about5minutes.Stirinthecrushedtomatoes,tomatopaste,oregano,salt,pepper,andredpepperflakes.Lowertheheatandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthickened,about15minutes.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEPESTO:Withthefoodprocessorrunning,dropthegarlicinthroughthefeedtubeandprocessuntilthegarlicisminced,about10seconds.Turntheprocessoroff,addtheremainingpestoingredients,andprocessuntilsmooth.

Raisetheoventemperatureto375°F.Coata9-by-13-inchbakingpanorcasserolewitholiveoil.

Linethebottomofthebakingpanwithalayerofzucchinislices.Spread1cupofthetomatosauceoverthezucchini,thentopwithhalfoftheleeksinanevenlayer.Spreadhalfofthecremaevenlyovertheleeks,thentopwithhalfof

evenlayer.Spreadhalfofthecremaevenlyovertheleeks,thentopwithhalfoftheroastedtomatoesinanevenlayer.Sprinkle¼cupofthebreadcrumbsoverthetomatoes.Topwiththeremainingleeks,thenspreadallofthepestoevenlyovertheleeks.Topwiththeremainingroastedtomatoes.Sprinkleanother¼cupofbreadcrumbsoverthetomatoes,thenspreadtheremainingcremaoverthetop.Spreadtheremainingtomatosauceoverthecremaand,finally,topwiththeremaining¼cupofbreadcrumbs.

Bakefor45to50minutes,untilthetopisbrownedandthejuicesarebubbling.Letstandfor10minutestosetupbeforecutting.Garnishwiththefreshbasilleavesandserverightaway.

SearedTofuWITHDATEBARBECUESAUCE

IshouldhavecalledthisDateBarbecueSaucewithSearedTofubecausethesauceisreallythestar.Nonetheless,theever-versatiletofuprovidesastrongsupportingroleasablankbackdropagainstwhichtoenjoythedramaticallyspicysauce,thickenedwithsticky-sweetdates.

{SERVES4}

BARBECUESAUCE¼teaspoonsaffronthreads1tablespoonwater¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1mediumyellowonion,finelychopped1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonsmokedSpanishpaprika1teaspoongroundginger1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper4garliccloves,minced¼cuptomatopaste

3cupsvegetablestock,preferablyhomemade(seerecipe)2tablespoonsbrownsugar½teaspooncayennepepper10largedates,pittedandminced¼cupfreshlemonjuice1¾poundsextra-firmtofu,drainedandpressed(seeTip)Canolaoil,forgreasingthepan

TOMAKETHEBARBECUESAUCE:Inasmallbowl,combinethesaffronandwaterandletsitforatleast10minutes.Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoliveoilovermedium-lowheat.Addtheonionandsautéuntilsoftandtranslucent,8to10minutes.Stirinthecoriander,cumin,paprika,ginger,cinnamon,salt,andpepperandcontinuetocook,stirringoccasionally,for5minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.Addthetomatopaste,stock,brownsugar,cayenne,andsaffronwatertotheonionmixture,turntheheattomedium-highandcook,stirringoften,untilthesaucebeginstothicken,8to10minutes.Addthedates,lowertheheat,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthickandfragrant,about15minutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthelemonjuice.

Preheattheovento250°F.Cutthetofuintothickslices.Lightlyoilalargegrillpanorheavyskilletwiththecanolaoilandputitovermedium-highheat.Dredgehalfofthetofuslicesinthebarbecuesauce,thenputtheminthepanandcookuntilbrownedonthebottom,about5minutes;ifusingagrillpan,youshouldbegintoseenicegrillmarksforming.Turnandcookuntilbrownedontheotherside,about5minutes.Transferthetofutoaservingplatterandputitintheoventokeepwarm.Applyadditionaloiltothepanasneededandcooktheremainingtofuinthesameway.Servethetofuwiththeremainingbarbecuesaucealongside.

TIP:Topresstofu,wrapeachblockinacleankitchentowel,thenputthetofuonarimmedbakingsheet.Putasecondbakingsheetontopofthetofuandsetaweight(suchasaheavyskillet,alargejugofwater,orevenabrick)ontop,centeringtheweightoverthetofuandbeingcarefulnottousesomuchweightthatyousquashthetofu,ratherthansimplypressingthewaterout.Pressforatleast20minutes.

BlueberryandEarlGreySorbetIlovethesexy,midnight-bluecolorofthisdessert.BlueberriesareinfusedwithEarlGrey,ablackteablendedwithoilfromtherindofbergamot(afragrantvarietyofcitrus),thenpuréedandfrozen.Thetwoflavorsseemtointertwine,likeayoungcoupleinlove.

{MAKES1QUART;SERVES4TO6}½cupsugar½cupwater1tablespoonEarlGreytealeaves¼teaspoonsalt5cupsfreshorfrozen,thawedblueberries2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugar,water,andtealeaves.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthesalt,lowertheheat,andsimmerfor2minutes.Transferthesyruptoabowlandletcooltoroomtemperature.Strainthesyrup,discardingthetealeaves.

Inablender,combinethesyrup,blueberries,andlemonjuiceandblenduntilsmooth.Strainthepuréethroughafine-meshsieve,pressingwithaspatulatoextractasmuchliquidaspossible.Discardtheseedsandskin.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast1houranduptoovernight.

Freezeinanice-creammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.Transfertoafreezer-safecontainer,cover,andfreezeuntilfirm,about1hour.

EspressoGelatoTraditionalgelatohaslessairchurnedintoitsbasethanicecreamandisthereforedenser.Thisnondairyversionhasjusttherightcreamytextureandsmoothmouthfeel.Besuretochillthebasethoroughlybeforepouringitintotheice-creammakerinordertopreventicecrystalsfromforming.YoumayhavenoticedthatIlikepresentingflavoroptionsinsetsofthree,soheretheyare:EspressoGelatohasbitsofwholeespressobeansstirredinattheend;MexicanChocolateGelatoismadewithauthenticvanilla-lacedIbarrachocolate;and

PiñonGelatoismadewithtoastedpinenuts.

{MAKES1QUART;SERVES4TO6}2tablespoonstapiocastarch3cupsunsweetenedplainsoymilk¾cupsugar2tablespoonsliquidlecithin1tablespooncanolaoil⅛teaspoonsalt1teaspoonpurevanillaextract¼cupfreshlybrewedespressoorstrongcoffee1teaspooncoarselychoppedespresso-roastcoffeebeans

Inasmallbowl,combinethetapiocastarchand¼cupofthesoymilkandmixtoformapaste.Inamediumsaucepan,combinetheremaining2¾cupssoymilkwiththesugar,lecithin,canolaoil,andsalt.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally.Addthetapiocamixture,lowertheheat,andsimmeruntilthemixturethickensslightly,about2minutes.

Removefromtheheat,stirinthevanillaandespresso,thenstrainthroughafine-meshsieve.Stirintheespressobeansandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursorpreferablyovernight.

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturer’sdirections.Transfertoafreezer-safecontainer,cover,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast2hours.Shortlybeforeserving,removefromthefreezerandletstandatroomtemperaturefor10minutestosoftenslightly.

VARIATION:MexicanChocolateGelatoPrepareasdirected,omittingtheespressoandespressobeans.Whensimmeringthesoymilkmixture,add2disksofIbarraMexicanchocolate(about6ounces),coarselychopped,andstiruntilmelted.

VARIATION:PiñonGelatoToast¾cup(3ounces)ofpinenuts(seeTip),thencoarselychopthem.Prepareasdirected,omittingtheespressoandespressobeans.Whensimmeringthesoymilkmixture,addthechoppedpinenuts.Whenstrainingthegelatobase,pressthesolidswithaspatulatoextractasmuchliquidaspossible.

BasmatiRicePuddingIfyou’vereadthroughevenjustafewoftherecipesinthisbook,itshouldbefairlyobviousthatIhaveafetishforexoticspices.Mostofusthinkofricepuddingasablandcafeteriadish,butthistakeonkheer,thetraditionalricepuddingpopularinIndia,isanythingbut.Teaminguponeofmyfavoriteflavortrifectas—saffron,cardamom,andpistachio—withtheperfumedscentofrosewater,thisrecipeelevatesricepuddingtodelectableheights.

{SERVES4}2tablespoonstapiocastarch5cupsricemilk½cupwhitebasmatirice6cardamompods⅓cupsugar¼teaspoonrosewaterPinchofsaffronthreadsPinchofsalt2tablespoonsshelledpistachios,toasted(seeTip)andcoarselychopped

Inasmallbowl,combinethetapiocastarchand¼cupofthericemilkandmixtoformapaste.Setasidefor10minutes.

toformapaste.Setasidefor10minutes.

Inalargesaucepan,combinetheremaining4¾cupsricemilkwiththerice,cardamom,sugar,andtapiocamixture.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringfrequently.Lowertheheattomaintainahighsimmerandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixturehasreducedbyabouttwo-thirds,about30minutes.

Fishoutanddiscardthecardamompods.Addtherosewater,saffron,salt,and1tablespoonofthepistachiosandstirbrieflytocombine.Transfertoabowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilwellchilled,atleast1hour.

Toserve,spoonthepuddingintofourindividualbowlsandgarnishwiththeremainingpistachios.

CHAPTER4LateNight

RosewaterHotChocolateNothingtastesbetterthanacupofhotchocolateonacoldnight,butthisversionraisesthebar.Saffronandchiledeárbolspikethisdrink,lendingitatouchofearthinessandbitofheat.Butthestarattractionisrosewater,which,whenblendedwiththechocolate,transformsthischildhoodstapleintoanelixirworthyofScheherazade.

{SERVES4}4cupsunsweetenedplainsoymilk1teaspoonrosewater½teaspoonsaffronthreads,lightlycrushed2stickscinnamon1chiledeárbol½vanillabean,splitlengthwise,or1teaspoonpurevanillaextract¼cupsugar4ouncesbittersweetchocolate,coarselychopped

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethesoymilk,rosewater,saffron,cinnamon,chile,vanilla,andsugarovermediumheat.Cook,stirringoccasionallyuntilthemixturebeginstosteamandalmostcomestoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmerfor10minutes.Removefromtheheatandletsteepfor15minutesmore.

Strain,discardingthespices,andreturnthesoymilktothepot.Addthechocolate,putthepotovermedium-lowheat,andcook,whiskingbriskly,untilthechocolateisentirelymelted,about5minutes.Serveinwarmedmugs.

LemonVerbenaBelliniAsclassyasaformalblack-tieevent,thisdrinktakesitscuefromtheclassic

peachcocktailinventedatHarry’sBarinVenice,Italy.Onceyou’vemadethesyrup,simplyputitoutinapitcherwithacoupleofchilledbottlesofbubblyandletguestsmaketheirowndrinks.Thefrozenlemonadeconcentrateusedtomakethesyrupisinfusedwithlemonverbena,renderingitintoxicatinglyfragrant.

{SERVES8}One12-ouncecanfrozenlemonadeconcentrate,thawed½cupfreshlemonverbenaleavesTwo750-mlbottlessparklingwine(champagne,Prosecco,orcava),

chilled

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethelemonadeconcentrateandlemonverbenaovermedium-lowheat.Simmer,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlyreduced,syrupy,andfragrant,10to15minutes.Strain,discardingthelemonverbena,andcooltoroomtemperature.

Foreachcocktail,pour2tablespoonsofthesyrupintoachampagneflute,thenslowlyfilltheglasswithsparklingwine.Serveimmediately.

Lavender-TangerineMartiniPreparingthiscocktailislikebartendinginacitrusorchard.Thecombinationofthefloralscentoflavenderandthebright,freshtasteoftangerinesispositivelyMediterranean.ThegorgeouscoloroftangerinejuiceisalsoawelcomechangefromtheusualpaletteofpinkishCosmopolitansandgreenishAppletinis.

{SERVES1}Icecubes2ouncesvodka½ounceGrandMarnierorotherorangeliqueur2ouncesfreshtangerinejuice1ouncelavendersimplesyrup(recipefollows)½ouncefreshlemonjuiceFreshlavendersprigsoratwistoftangerinepeelforgarnish

Chillamartiniglassinthefreezerforatleast10minutes.

Fillacocktailshakerwithice,thenaddthevodka,GrandMarnier,tangerinejuice,simplesyrup,andlemonjuice.Shakevigorouslyuntilwell

tangerinejuice,simplesyrup,andlemonjuice.Shakevigorouslyuntilwellchilled,about10seconds.Strainintothechilledglassandgarnishwiththelavendersprigs.

LavenderSimpleSyrup

{MAKES1CUP}½cupsugar½cupwater1½tablespoonsdriedorfreshlavenderflowers

Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugarandwater.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.Removefromtheheat,addthelavender,andletsteepfor30minutes.Strainandstoreinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto1month.

CurriedChickpeaSnackCrunchy,salty,spicy—inotherwords,playswellwithcocktails.I’mtotallyaddictedtotheselightlyfriedsnacksandcan’tkeepmyselffromreachingforthebowl.Ifyou’relikeme,you’llfindthatthisrecipeonlymakesenoughforyourself,soyoumightwanttodoubleoreventripletherecipeifyouhavetoshare.

{MAKES2CUPS;SERVES1TO4}Two15-ouncecansgarbanzobeans2teaspoonscurrypowder2teaspoonschilipowder½cupall-purposeflourCanolaoilforfryingSaltSmokedSpanishpaprika

Drainandrinsethegarbanzobeans,thenputthemonacleankitchentowelandpatdry.

Inalargebowl,combinethegarbanzobeans,currypowder,andchilipowderandtossuntilevenlycoated.Addtheflourandtossagainuntilevenlycoated.

Inalargefryingpan,heat¼inchofoilto365°F.Addthegarbanzobeansinsmallbatchesandfryuntilbrownedandcrispy,6to8minutes.Drainonpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpaprika.Servewarm.

SpicedNutsThiscollectionofrecipesgoesallout,withsixdifferenttypesoftoastednuts:almonds,cashews,peanuts,pistachios,walnuts,andpepitas.True,pepitas,beingpumpkinseeds,aren’ttechnicallyanut,buttheyfillthesameniche.Thisisirresistiblepartyfoodand,needlesstosay,theperfectmatchtoanycocktail.Prepareone,some,orallofthem,accordingtoyourpreferencesorwhims.

{MAKES2CUPSEACH}

Maple-GingerAlmonds¼cupsoysauce¼cupmaplesyrup1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoongroundginger2cupsrawalmonds(9ounces)

Preheattheovento350°F.

Inamediumbowl,combinethesoysauce,maplesyrup,oliveoil,andgingerandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthealmondsandtossuntilevenlycoated.

Spreadthealmondsinanevenlayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbakeforabout15minutes,untildeepbrown,stirringonceabouthalfwaythrough.Transfertoacleanbakingsheetandletcool,tossingfrequentlytopreventsticking.Transfertoaservingbowl.

SmokyCashews1driedchipotlemorachile,or½teaspoongroundchiles2cupsrawwholecashews(9ounces)1teaspoonsmokedSpanishpaprika1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil2teaspoonssalt

Useaspicemilltofinelygrindthechile.Inadry,heavyskillet,toastthecashewsovermediumheat,shakingfrequently,untilfragrant,about10minutes.Transfertoabowl;addthegroundchile,paprika,oliveoil,andsalt;andtossuntilevenlycoated.Transfertoaservingbowl.

untilevenlycoated.Transfertoaservingbowl.

ChilePeanuts1tablespoonfreshlimejuice1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonsmokedSpanishpaprika2teaspoonssalt½teaspoonNewMexicochilepowder2cupsunsalteddry-roastedpeanuts(9ounces)

Preheattheovento250°F.

Inamediumbowl,combinethelimejuice,oliveoil,paprika,salt,andchilepowderandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthepeanutsandtossuntilevenlycoated.Spreadthepeanutsinanevenlayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbakeforabout30minutes,untilgoldenbrown,stirringoncehalfwaythrough.Transfertoaservingbowl.

Vanilla-MintPistachios2cupsshelledrawpistachios(9ounces)1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmint1teaspoonsalt

Preheattheovento350°F.

Spreadthepistachiosinasinglelayeronarimmedbakingsheet,andbakefor7to8minutes,untillightlytoastedandfragrant.

Inamediumbowl,combinetheoliveoil,vanilla,mint,andsaltandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthepistachiosandtossuntilevenlycoated.Putthepistachiosbackonthebakingsheet,spreadtheminanevenlayer,andbakeforabout15minutes,untilgoldenbrown,stirringonceabouthalfwaythrough.Transfertoaservingbowl.

CurriedWalnuts2cupsrawwalnuthalves(9ounces)

1tablespoontoastedsesameoil1teaspooncurrypowder1tablespoonsesameseeds½teaspoonsalt

Preheattheovento350°F.

Inamediumbowl,combinethewalnutsandsesameoilandtossuntilevenlycoated.

Spreadthewalnutsinanevenlayeronarimmedbakingsheet,andbakefor7to8minutes,untillightlytoastedandfragrant.

Inacleanmediumbowl,combinethecurrypowder,sesameseeds,andsaltandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthewalnutsandtossuntilevenlycoated.Putthewalnutsbackonthebakingsheetandbakefor5minutes.Transfertoaservingbowl.

SpicyPepitas1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil2cupsrawpepitas(8ounces)2teaspoonssugar1teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoonNewMexicochilepowder¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

Inaheavyskillet,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthepepitasandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheyareevenlytoastedandbegintopop,about5minutes.Stirinthesugar,salt,cumin,chilepowder,andcinnamonandcook,stirringconstantly,for1minute.Transfertoaservingbowl.

VeganTapasPlateWe’rehavingatapasparty!Traditionally,tapasweresmallplatesoffoodsetdown,freeofcharge,forcustomersatSpanishbarsandrestaurants.Unfortunately,astheirpopularityincreased,sodidtheprice.Thesethreerecipesmakeforanicelyroundedtapasplate.Andafteryou’vemadetheseafewtimes,youshouldfeelconfidentandinspiredtoimproviseandexpandyourrepertoire.

youshouldfeelconfidentandinspiredtoimproviseandexpandyourrepertoire.IrecommendservinganiceAlbariñoorTempranillowineasanaccompaniment.

{SERVES4TO6}

PotatoeswithAioli2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonsalt1teaspoonsmokedSpanishpaprika4mediumpotatoes,unpeeledandcutinto1-inchdice½cupVeganAiolifordipping

Preheattheovento450°F.

Inalargebowl,combinetheoliveoil,salt,andpaprikaandstiruntilwellmixed.Addthepotatoesandtossuntilevenlycoated.Spreadthepotatoesonarimmedbakingsheetandbakefor20to30minutes,untilbrownedandslightlycrispy.

Transferthepotatoestoaplatterandservewiththeaiolialongsideinasmallbowl,withtoothpickstofacilitatedipping.

WarmOlivesandAlmonds2cupsassortedolives,suchaspicholine,kalamata,andniçoise1cuprawalmonds(4½ounces)1cupextra-virginoliveoil½cupgarliccloves,peeled3sprigsfreshthyme

Inalargesautépanovermediumheat,combinealloftheingredientsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthealmondsbegintobrownandthegarlicistender,about15minutes.Discardthethyme.Usingaslottedspoon,transfertheolives,almonds,andgarlictoaservingbowl.Servewarm,withtoothpicksalongside.

GarlicMushrooms½cupextra-virginoliveoil2poundssmallcreminiorbuttonmushrooms,stemstrimmed½cupdrywhitewine3sprigsfreshthyme3sprigsfreshoregano2bayleaves6garliccloves,slicedGratedzestandjuiceof2lemonsSaltFreshlygroundpepper

Inalargeskillet,heat¼cupoftheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthemushrooms,wine,thyme,oregano,andbayleaves.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthewinehasevaporated,about3minutes.Addthegarlicandsautéfor30seconds.Removefromtheheatandstirinthelemonzestandjuiceandtheremainingoliveoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Pourintoaservingbowlandletcool.Serveatroomtemperature,withtoothpicksalongside.

VanillaCoconutFlanIdon’trecallthemomentwhenflanwaselevatedfromitshumblevanilla-infusedcaramelcustardrootstoitcurrentgourmetstatus,butI’mdefinitelyon

board.Forthisveganversion,acoconut-milkbaseisgelledwithagar,aflavorlesssubstancederivedfromseaweed,creatingawonderfullysoftfinaltexture.Inadditiontothefairlystandardvanillaversion,I’veincludedtwotastyvariations:gingerandgreentea.

{SERVES6}½cupsugar2¼cupscoconutmilk1tablespoonagarflakes,or1teaspoonagarpowder6ouncessoftsilkentofu2tablespoonsagavesyrup1teaspoonpurevanillaextractPinchofsaltUnsweetenedshreddedcoconut,toasted(seeTip),forgarnish

Putthesugarinasmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheatandcook,stirring,untilthesugarismeltedandcaramelized.Pouritintosix5-ounceramekinsorcustardmolds,dividingitevenlyamongthem.Swirltheramekinstoevenlycoatthebottomswiththecaramelizedsugar.

Putthecoconutmilkinamediumsaucepanandsprinklewiththeagar.Letsitfor10to20minutestosoftentheagar.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmer,stirringoften,untiltheagarhasdissolved,about5minutes.

Inablender,combinethecoconutmilkmixture,tofu,agavesyrup,vanilla,andsaltandpuréeuntilsmooth.Pourthemixtureintotheramekins,thencoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateuntilchilledandfirm,about2hours.

Toserve,brieflydipthebottomofeachramekininhotwater,justfor15secondsorso.Removetheplasticwrapandinverttheramekinontoaplate,pouringanyremainingcaramelovertheflan.Garnishthetopofeachwithasprinklingofcoconut.

VARIATION:GingerFlan

Prepareasdirected,omittingthevanillaextractandadding1tablespoonofgratedpeeledfreshgingeror1teaspoonofgroundginger.Afterinvertingontoservingplates,garnishthetopswithchoppedcrystallizedgingerratherthanthecoconut.

coconut.

VARIATION:GreenTeaFlan

Prepareasdirected,omittingthevanillaextractandadding1tablespoonofmatchapowder.Afterinvertingontoservingplates,garnishthetopswithwholegreentealeavesratherthanthecoconut.

Tea-PoachedPearsINCARAMELSAUCE

Inthisrecipe,twinpearpreparationscombineforanelegantdessert.Freshpearsarepoachedinaflowerysugarsyrupinfusedwithjasminetea,thenthey’retoppedwithasophisticatedcaramelsaucebasedonpearjuice.It’snotasdauntingasyoumightthink,butIsuggestyoureadthroughtherecipecloselybeforeyoubegincooking,andthatyouremoveallsourcesofdistractionwhenpreparingthesauce.

{SERVES4}

SAUCE2cupspearjuice,bottledorfreshlyjuiced1cupsugar¼cupwater

POACHEDPEARS4ripepears¼cupfreshlemonjuice3cupscoldwater3tablespoonsjasminetealeaves½cupsugar

TOMAKETHESAUCE:Putthepearjuiceinamediumsaucepanovermediumheatandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilreducedto½cup,about40minutes.Setasidetocool.

Inmediumsaucepan,combinethesugarandwater.Stirjustuntilcombined;itshouldhavetheconsistencyofathickpaste.Slowlybringthemixturetoaboil,withoutstirring,overmediumheat.Resisttheurgetostirordoanything

boil,withoutstirring,overmediumheat.Resisttheurgetostirordoanythingotherthanuseadamppastrybrushtowipedownthesidesofthepantoremoveanysugarcrystalsthatmayform.Ifyourheatsourceisuneven,gentlyrotatethepanoccasionallysothesugarheatsevenly.

Paycloseattentiontothecolorofthemixtureasitstartstocaramelize.Onceitbeginstochangecolorfromcleartoalightgoldenhueitwillcontinuetodarkenquickly,sodon’tstrayfromthepotduringthiscriticaltime.Themixturewillcontinuetodarkentoalightamber,thendeeperstilltoarichreddishbrown.Atthatpoint,immediatelyremovefromtheheatandcarefullyaddthereducedpearjuice.Becausethecaramelisveryhot,themixturewillbubbleandsputter,soyoumightwanttowearovenmitts.Usingalong-handledwoodenspoon,stirvigorouslyuntilthesauceiscompletelysmooth.Setasidetocoolslightly.

TOMAKETHEPOACHEDPEARS:Peelthepearsandcuttheminhalflengthwise.Withamelonballerorsmallspoon,removethecorefromeach.Putthepearsinabowl,pourthelemonjuiceoverthem,andtossgentlytocoat.

Bring2cupsofthewatertoaboil,thenletstanduntilcooledto160°F.Inaheatproofbowlorteapot,combinetheteaandwaterandletsteepfor4minutes.

Immediatelystraintheteaintoalargesaucepan.Stirinthesugarandtheremaining1cupcoldwaterandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Lowertheheatandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved,about2minutes.Addthepearsandsimmer,gentlyturningthepearsoccasionally,untiltheyareeasilypiercedwithafork,12to15minutes.Drainthepears,discardingthepoachingliquid,andtransfertoabowltocool.

Spoon2pearshalvesintoeachoffourdishes,thendrizzlethesauceoverthetopbeforeserving.

Chocolate-TahiniTimbalesÜberchefThomasKeller,whopopularizedtheselittlechocolatemorsels,callsthembouchons,whichisFrenchfor“corks.”They’relessthan2inchestall,whichsomehowmakesthemdisappearmysteriously.Thisvariationinvolvesusingtahini,avelvetysesamepaste,inplaceofbutter.Thebatterisbakedintimbaleorbabamolds.You’llneedtohaveenough2-to3-ounceflexible,nonsticksiliconetimbaleorbabamoldstomaketwodozentimbalesatatime.

{MAKESABOUT24}4ouncessemisweetbakingchocolate,coarselychopped½cupunsweetenedplainsoymilk2/3cupKahlúaorothercoffeeliqueur½cuptahini1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1½cupsall-purposeflour1cuppowderedsugar,plusmorefordusting1½teaspoonsbakingpowder⅓cupDutch-processcocoapowder½teaspoonsalt

Preheattheovento350°F.

Putthechocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthesoymilkovermediumheatuntilitbeginstosteamandalmostcomestoaboil.Pourthesoymilkoverthechoppedchocolate,thenaddtheKahlúa,tahini,andvanilla.Letstandfor1minute,thenstiruntilthemixtureissmoothandthechocolateisentirelymelted.

Sifttheflour,powderedsugar,bakingpowder,cocoa,andsalttogetherintoalargebowl.Addthechocolatemixtureandstirgentlyuntiljustcombined.Transferthemixturetoapastrybagwithoutatiporaresealableplasticbagwithonecornersnippedoff.

Putabouttwodozentimbalemoldsonabakingsheet(thenumberofmoldsperpanvaries,sojustgetasclosetotwodozenasyoucan).Pipethebatterintothemolds,fillingeachabouttwo-thirdsfull.

Bakefor15to20minutes,untilthetopsarefirmbuttheinsideisstillslightlysoft(testbyinsertingawoodenskewerortoothpick).Transferthemoldstoawirerackandletcoolfor5minutes,theninvertthemoldsandletthetimbalescoolcompletely,about15minutes.Liftoffthemoldsanddustthetimbaleswithpowderedsugar.Thesetreatsarebesteatenthedaythey’remade.

PiñonTartPinenuts,piñons,orpignolia—nomatterwhatnameyoucallthemby,theseseedsofcertainspeciesofpinehaveabuttery,subtlyresinousflavorandindescribabletexturethatnicelycomplementstheotherwisesweet,sugaryfillingofthistart.

{MAKESONE9-INCHTART;SERVES6}

TARTSHELL1¼cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting2teaspoonssugar½teaspoonsalt½cupcoldveganshortening,diced2to4tablespoonsicewater

FILLING½cupsugar⅓cupagavesyrup1teaspoonsalt¾cupcoldveganshortening,diced¾cuprawcashewpieces(4ounces)1½ouncesextra-firmtofu,crumbled1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice½teaspoonbakingsoda1½cupspinenuts(6ounces),toasted(seeTip)

TOMAKETHETARTSHELL:Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflour,sugar,salt,andshorteningandpulseuntilevenlyblended.Addtheicewater1tablespoonatatimewhilecontinuingtopulse.Stopjustasthedoughstartstocometogether,anddon’tunderanycircumstancespulselongerthan30seconds,asthiswilladverselyaffectthetextureofthepastry.Testbypinchingabitofdoughwithyourfingers.Ifitstickstogether,it’sready.Ifnot,addmorewater,1

tablespoonatatime.

Transferthedoughtoaworksurfaceandgentlypatitintoadisk.Wrapinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1houranduptoovernight.

Transferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollintoan11-inchround;alternatively,youcansandwichthedoughbetweentwosheetsofparchmentpaperforrolling.Laythedoughina9-inchtartpanwitharemovablebottomandgentlypressitagainstthebottomandsidesofthepan.Trimanyoverhangingedgesbyrollingtherollingpinoverthetopofthepan.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15minutes.

Preheattheovento325°F.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEFILLING:Inamediumsaucepanovermediumheat,combinethesugar,agavesyrup,andsaltandcook,whiskingconstantly,untilthesugardissolves.Addtheshorteningandwhiskuntilincorporated.Transferthemixturetoamediumbowlandletcoolfor30minutes.

Inafoodprocessor,combinethecashews,tofu,oliveoil,andlemonjuiceandprocessuntilsmooth.Whiskthemixtureintothecooledsyrup.Addthebakingsodaandwhiskagaintocombine.

Putthetartpanonarimmedbakingsheet.Scatterthepinenutsoverthebottomofthecrust,thengentlypourthecashewmixtureoverthepinenuts.Bakeforabout1hour,untilthecrustisgoldenbrownandthecenterissetbutstillslightlyloose.Ifthecrustbrownstooquickly,covertheedgeswithfoil.Transferthetarttoawirerackandletcoolcompletelybeforeslicingandserving.

CHAPTER5VeryLateNight

LimoncelloI’vebeenconcoctingthisbrightyellowItaliandigestifforyears.Eachholidayseason,friendsandclientseagerlyawaittheirownlittlebottleofmyhand-craftedlimoncello.It’straditionallyservedinsmallglassesafterdinner,ice-coldrightoutofthefreezer.Don’tletanyonetellyoutheyaretootiredforaquickniporcouldn’tpossiblyconsumesomethingmore.Iguaranteethatassoonasthey’vehadasiportwo,thepartywillstartalloveragain.Resistsubstituting80-proofvodka.Itwon’textracttheoilsfromthelemonrindsinquitethesameway.

{MAKES2LITERS}Zestfrom2poundsoflemons(yellowpartonly),preferablyorganic

(seeTip)1liter100-proofvodka3cupssugar3cupswater

Combinethelemonzestandvodkainalargebowl.Coverandletsteepfor1weekatroomtemperature.

Inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,combinethesugarandwaterandcook,stirring,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Letcooltoroomtemperature,thenaddthesyruptothevodkamixtureandstiruntilthoroughlycombined.Strainthemixture,discardingthelemon,thendecantintotwoclean1-literbottleswithtightlids.

Refrigeratefor1monthtoallowtheflavorstodevelop,thentransferthelimoncellotothefreezersoitwillbereadytobeservedice-coldinashotoraperitifglass.

TIP:Ifyouusenonorganiclemons,soaktheminlukewarmwaterwithlemonjuice,vinegar,oranorganiccitrus-basedvegetablecleaningsolutionforseveralminutes,thenscrubgentlyandrinsewithfreshwater.

ShisoLeafMartiniAsexydrinklateatnight,oranytimeforthatmatter,canbeagreatconversationstarter.Youmayalreadybefamiliarwithshiso,thescallop-edgeddarkgreenleafthatmakesanappearanceinJapanesedishes.Here,theshisoleaf(fromtheplantalsoknownasPerillafrutescens,butthat’saturnoff)infusesthisvodkamartiniwithaminty,basil-inflectedbitethatiswaymorepotentthanmeresake.Kanpai!

{SERVES2}8ouncesvodka7freshshisoleavesIcecubes1½ouncesdryvermouth½ouncefreshlimejuiceDashofAngosturabitters(optional)

Combinethevodkaand5oftheshisoleavesinajar,covertightly,andinfuseforatleast8hoursanduptoovernight.

Chilltwomartiniglassesinthefreezerforatleast10minutes.

Whenreadytoserve,discardthesteepedshisoleaves.Fillacocktailshakerwithice,thenaddtheinfusedvodka,vermouth,limejuice,andbitters(ifusing).Shakevigorouslyuntilwellchilled,about10seconds.Strainintothechilledglassesandfloatashisoleafineachglassasagarnish.

HazelnutHalvahHalvahismadefromtahini,sugar,andnuts.I’vereplacedthetraditionalpistachioswithtoastedhazelnuts,whichgivesitaPacificNorthwestvibe.Thissweet,MiddleEasterndelicacycanbeenjoyedrightaway,butlettingitsetintherefrigeratorforacoupleofdaysallowsamiraculouscrystallizationtotakeplace.Useaclean,sharpknifetoslicethehalvah,andenjoyitsflakytexture.

{MAKES1LOAF;SERVES8TO10}1cuphazelnuts(4ounces),toastedandskinned(seeTip)andfinely

chopped3cupstahini1teaspoonpurevanillaextract2cupssugar1cupwater

Linea9-by-5-inchloafpanwithplasticwraporoiledparchmentpaper,allowingsometohangoveroneachsideofthepan.

Inalargebowl,combinethehazelnuts,tahini,andvanillaandstiruntilwellmixed.

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethesugarandwaterandcookovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixturereaches240°Fonacandythermometer.Slowlypourthehotsugarsyrupintothetahinimixturewhilestirringconstantly,andcontinuetostiruntilthemixtureiswellcombinedandstartstoharden.Immediatelytransferthemixturetothepreparedpanandsmooththesurfacewithanoffsetspatulaorthebackofaspoon.

Letthehalvahcoolbeforeslicingandserving.Or,betteryet,cool,thenfoldtheoverhangingwrapoverthetopofthehalvahandrefrigerateforatleast2daysbeforeserving.Useasharpknifetocutenoughhalvahforeachserving,thenrewraptheremainderandreturnittotherefrigerator,whereitwillkeepforupto3weeks.

TIP:Totoastandskinhazelnuts,spreadtheminasinglelayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbakeat350°Ffor10minutes.Transfertoacleankitchentowel,foldthetoweloverthenuts,andrubvigorouslyto

removetheirskins.

DatesWITHCOFFEECREMA

Ienvypeoplewhocandrinkadoubleshotofespressoafteralate-nightmealandstillfallasleepwhentheygotobed.Ihaveneverbeenabletoenjoythatritualwithoutbeingkeptawakeforthenexttwenty-fourhours.Dependingonhowwellyouandyourgueststoleratecaffeine,youcanmakethisdessert,anunusualpairingofdatesandespresso,withdecaf,orenjoyitearlierintheday.

{SERVES6}24HalawiorMedjooldates,pitted2cupsfreshlybrewedespressoorstrongcoffee20cardamompods,lightlycrushed1teaspoonsugar

COFFEECREMA½cupcoconutcream(seeTip)6ouncessoftsilkentofu1tablespooninstantespressopowder1teaspoonpurevanillaextract¼cupsugar

Putthedatesinasmallheatproofbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,combinetheespresso,cardamompods,andsugar.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandallowtosteepfor15minutes.Strainthemixture,discardingthecardamompods,thenpouritoverthedates.Letcool,thencoverandrefrigerateforatleast1houranduptoovernight.

TOMAKETHECOFFEECREMA:Inablenderorfoodprocessor,combinethecoconutcream,tofu,espressopowder,vanilla,andsugarandblenduntilsmooth.

Dividethecremaamongsixservingbowls.Arrange4datesontopofthecremaineachbowl,thendrizzlewiththeremainingliquidfromthesoakeddates.Serveimmediately.

TIP:Mostcommercialversionsofcoconutcreamarefullofnastyadditives.Forahealthieralternative,simplyrefrigerateacanoforganiccoconutmilkovernightandskimthecreamoffthetopthenextday.

Maple-ChipotlePecanPopcornThisain’tnoCrackerJack(so,alas,there’salsonoprizeinside).However,thisgrown-upcaramelcornissoaddictivethatI’vewrittentherecipetoyieldasubstantialamount.It’sgotabitofachilebitetoit,sopleaseadjustaccordingtoyourheattolerance.

{MAKES10CUPS;SERVES4}4tablespoonscanolaoil⅓cuppopcornkernels1cuprawpecans(4ounces)1driedchipotlemorachile,ortotaste,or½teaspoongroundchiles6tablespoonsveganshortening1½cupsmaplesyrup½teaspoonsalt

Preheattheovento350°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithfoil,thenlightlycoatthefoilandawoodenspoonwith1tablespoonofthecanolaoil.

Inalargesaucepanwithalid,heattheremaining3tablespoonsoilovermedium-highheat.Addthepopcornkernels,cover,andcook,shakingthepanoccasionallytopreventburning.Whenthepoppingslowsto3to5secondsbetweenpops,removefromtheheatandletcoolfor1to2minutes.Transferthepopcorntoalargebowl,removinganyunpoppedkernels.

Spreadthepecansinasinglelayeronarimmedbakingsheet.Bakefor7to8minutes,untillightlytoastedandfragrant.Whencoolenoughtohandle,coarselychopthepecans.Addthemtothepopcornandtosstocombine.

Meanwhile,useaspicemilltofinelygrindthechile.Inasmall,heavysaucepan,melttheshorteningovermediumheat.Stirinthemaplesyrup,groundchile,andsalt,thenbringtoaboilandcook,withoutstirring,untilthemixturereaches300°Fonacandythermometer,15to20minutes.

Pourthesyrupoverthepopcornandquicklystirwiththeoiledspoontoevenlycoat.Immediatelyspreadthemixtureonthepreparedpan.Letcoolcompletely,thenbreakintobite-sizepieces.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto3days.

ChocolateTrufflesAlthoughtrufflesareromanticandindulgent,they’realsorelativelyeasytomake.Herearethreedecadentvariationsonthetheme:espresso-cocoa,raspberry-almond,andchile–pinenut.Onceyou’vemadethese,experimentwithyourownflavorcombinationsandusethemtoseducesomeonespecial.

{MAKES36}2poundsbittersweetchocolate(atleast65%cacao),coarselychopped½cupveganshortening¼teaspoonsalt2½cupsunsweetenedplainsoymilk2teaspoonsinstantespressopowder3teaspoonswater1tablespoonChambordorotherraspberryliqueur1teaspoonNewMexicochilepowder½cupDutch-processcocoapowder½cupalmonds(2ounces),toasted(seeTip)andchopped½cuppinenuts(2ounces),toasted(seeTip)andfinelychopped

Inalargeheatproofbowl,combinethechocolate,shortening,andsalt.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthesoymilkovermediumheatuntilitbeginstoemitsteamandalmostcomestoaboil,thenpouritoverthechocolatemixture.Letstandfor5minutes,thenwhiskuntilthemixtureissmoothandthechocolateisentirelymelted.

Evenlydividethechocolatemixtureintothreesmallbowls.Dissolvetheespressopowderin2teaspoonsofthewater,thenstirthemixtureintothefirstbowluntilevenlyincorporated.StirtheChambordintothesecondbowluntilevenlyincorporated.Stirthechilepowderintotheremaining1teaspoonwaterandstirthemixtureintothethirdbowluntilevenlyincorporated.Coverthebowlsandrefrigerateuntilcooled,3to4hours.

Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Usingamelonballerorsmallscoop,droptablespoonsofeachchocolatemixtureontothesheet,keepingthethreeflavorsseparate(youmaywanttousethreeseparatebakingsheetsor

plates).Refrigerateuntilset,about1hour.

Putthecocoapowder,almonds,andpinenutsinthreesmallseparatebowls.Quicklyrollthemoundsofchocolateintoballs,stillkeepingtheflavorsseparated.Theyshouldendupbeingroughly1½inchesindiameter.Rolltheespressotrufflesinthecocoapowdertoevenlycoat,theraspberrytrufflesinthechoppedalmondstoevenlycoat,andthechiletrufflesinthepinenutstoevenlycoat.Ifnotservingthetrufflesrightaway,storetheminanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator,wheretheywillkeepforupto1week.Bringthetrufflestoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

ChocolateSeaSaltTartWhatcanIsayaboutthetasteofsalty-sweet?Maybeit’sthesixthtasteaftersweet,sour,salty,bitter,andumami(thelattersometimescharacterizedassavory).TheMaldonseasaltthatgracesthetopofthischocolatytartislikejewelsonacrown.HarvestedinMaldon,England,thesepure,whitesaltcrystalslooklikesnowflakesthathavefallenonyoursweetlysophisticateddessert.

{MAKESONE9-INCHTART;SERVES6TO8}

COCOATARTSHELL1½cupsall-purposeflour½cuppowderedsugar2tablespoonsnaturalcocoapowder¼teaspoonsalt½cupcoldveganshortening,diced1to3tablespoonsicewaterormoreasneeded

FILLING

1¼poundsdarkchocolate,coarselychopped2½cupsunsweetenedplainsoymilk1tablespooninstantespressopowder1teaspoonsalt

Maldonseasaltoranyhigh-qualityflakeseasaltforgarnish

Preheattheovento350°F.

TOMAKETHETARTSHELL:Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflour,powderedsugar,cocoapowder,salt,andshorteningandpulseuntilthemixtureisevenlyblended.Addthewater1tablespoonatatimewhilecontinuingtopulse.Stopassoonasthedoughstartstocometogether.Testbypinchingabitofthedoughwithyourfingers.Ifitstickstogether,it’sready.Ifnot,addmorewater.Alternatively,youcanmixthedoughbyhand.Combinetheflour,powderedsugar,cocoapowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Addtheshorteningand

useaforkorapastryblendertoincorporateuntilcrumbly.Addthewater1tablespoonatatimeandcontinuemixinguntilthedoughcomestogether,addingmorewaterasneededandusingthesamepinchtestasdescribed.

Transferthedoughdirectlyintoa9-inchtartpanandgentlypressitintothepan.Beginbybuildingupthesidestoforma¼-inch-thickwallofdough.Thendistributetheremainingdoughevenlyoverthebottomofthepan.Wrapa1-cupmeasuringcupwithplasticwrapandusethebottomtoevenlypressthedoughintothebottomofthepan.Prickthebottomofthetartshellwiththetinesofafork12to15timestopreventthecrustfrompuffingupduringbaking.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15minutes.

Linethetartshellwithparchmentpaperandspreadpieweightsordriedbeansoverthepaper,pushingthebulkoftheweightstotheedgesoftheshell.Bakefor20minutes.Removetheweightsandbakefor4to5minutes,untilthebottomoftheshellisfirmanddry.Removefromtheovenandletrestwhileyoupreparethefilling.

TOMAKETHEFILLING:Putthechocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthesoymilkovermediumheatuntilitbeginstosteamandalmostcomestoaboil.Addtheespressopowderandsaltandstiruntildissolved.Pourthesoymilkoverthechocolateandletstandfor1minute,thenstiruntilthemixtureissmoothandthechocolateisentirelymelted.

Pourthefillingintothebakedtartshellanduseanoffsetspatulatospreaditevenly.Givethetartagentlebutfirmraponthecountertosettlethefillingandremoveanyairbubbles.Letthetartcooltoroomtemperature,whichshouldtakeabout30minutes.Whenit’scompletelycool,sprinkletheseasaltevenlyoverthetopandserve.

CharosetTartWhenIwasachild,Passoversedersseemedtogoonforever.ThisceremonialmealtellsthestoryoftheexodusfromancientEgyptbytheIsraelitesandusesspecialfoodsaspartofthenarrative(andtokeepguestsfrompassingoutatthetable).Oneofmyfavoritesamongthesefoodshasalwaysbeencharoset,athickpasteoffruit,wine,andnutsthatsymbolizesthemortarenslavedHebrewsusedwhenbuildingthepyramidsforthepharaoh.TakenofftheSederplate,andmadeintoatart,thisSephardicversionofcharoset,withdatesandfigs,thankfullydoesnotresemblemortar.Andnomatterhowyouwereraised,thischarosettartisdeliciousanytimeofyear.

{MAKESONE9-INCHTART;SERVES6TO8}1unbakedTartShell

FRANGIPANE1cuprawalmonds(4½ounces)½cupveganshortening½cupsugar3tablespoonsCognac1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonall-purposeflour1½ouncessoftsilkentofu½teaspoonbakingpowder

FILLING6driedblackMissionfigs,stemmedandcoarselychopped6dates,pittedandcoarselychopped6driedapricots,coarselychopped1tablespoongratedorangezest2GrannySmithapples,peeledanddiced⅓cuprawalmonds(1½ounces),coarselychopped½cuprawwalnuts(2ounces),coarselychopped

1teaspoongratedpeeledfreshginger½teaspoongroundcinnamon1tablespoonagavesyrup1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice5tablespoonsredwineorCognac3tablespoonsapricotjam

Preheattheovento400°F.

TOMAKETHEFRANGIPANE:Inafoodprocessor,pulsethealmondsuntilfinelyground.Addtheshortening,sugar,Cognac,vanilla,flour,tofu,andbakingpowderandprocessuntilsmooth.

Spreadthefrangipaneevenlyoverthebottomofthechilledtartshell,thenputthetartshellintherefrigeratorwhileyoupreparethefilling.

TOMAKETHEFILLING:Inafoodprocessor(noneedtocleanitout),combinethefigs,dates,apricots,orangezest,apples,almonds,walnuts,ginger,cinnamon,agavesyrup,lemonjuice,andwineandpulseuntilcoarselychoppedbutnottransformedintoapaste.

Spreadthefillingevenlyoverthefrangipane.Putthetartpanonarimmedbakingsheetorcoverthebottomwithfoilandbakefor45minutes,untilfirm.Iftheedgesofthecrustbrowntooquickly,coverthemwithfoil.Putthetartonawireracktocool.

Afewminutesbeforetheendofthebakingtime,heattheapricotjaminasmallsaucepanovermediumheatuntilitmeltsintoasyrup,2to3minutes.Brushtheapricotjamoverthewarmtartasaglaze,thenletthetartcoolbeforeslicingandserving.

ResourcesNomatterwhereyoulive,theInternetcanbeyourcybersourcingfriend.Consideringtheseeminglyunlimitedoptionsavailableonline,thislistisjustajumping-offpointfortheharder-to-finditemsincludedintherecipes.NotethatI’vedivviedthingsupintoedibles(foodingredients)andequipment.AndforthoseofyouwhowereinspiredbytheFoodSourcingPyramid(seeIngredientSourcing),I’veincludedafewresourcesthatwillhelpgetyoustartedonfindingalternativefoodsources.Happyshopping!

EDIBLES

ANSONMILLSansonmills.comMilledorganicheirloomgrains,includingflours,semolina,andpolenta.

BOB’SREDMILLbobsredmill.comAwidevarietyofgrains,beans,andotherdriedgoods,includingvitalwheatgluten,nutritionalyeast,tapiocastarch,garbanzobeanflour,polenta,andsemolinaflour.

CHADOTEAROOMchadotea.comMatcha,Lapsangsouchong,Darjeeling,EarlGrey,jasmine,andmanyotherteas.

CHOCOVIVOchocovivo.comOrganicchocolate.

CLARO’SITALIANMARKETclaros.comImportedanddomesticItalianspecialtyfoods,includingSanMarzanotomatoes,Arboriorice,andpinenuts.

EARTHBALANCEearthbalancenatural.comVeganmargarineandshortening.

EDENedenfoods.comMatcha,mirin,soymilk,agarflakes,andcannedbutterbeans,garbanzobeans,andkidneybeans.

FOODDEPOTefooddepot.comAwidevarietyofinternationalingredients,includingrosewater,orangeblossomwater,pomegranatemolasses,saffron,sumac,tahini,basmatirice,cardamom,grapeleavesinbrine,andcoconutmilk.

GREENBARCOLLECTIVEgreenbar.bizOrganicliquors,includingvodka,tequila,andliqueurs.

HOMEBREWHEAVENhomebrewheaven.comChampagneyeast.

IGOURMETigourmet.comAwidevarietyofgourmetfoods,includinghazelnutoil,organicdriedfruits,andpinenuts.

IHERBiherb.comAwidevarietyofnaturalproducts,includingagarflakesandpowder,nutritionalyeast,agavesyrup,andlecithin.

KINGARTHURFLOURkingarthurflour.comSpecialtybakinggoods,includinginstantespressopowder,breadflour,yeast,andbakingequipment.

andbakingequipment.

K&LWINEMERCHANTSklwines.comWinesandspirits,includingaquavit,Angosturabitters,andcrèmedecassis.

LAVIGNEFRUITSlavignefruits.comBloodorangejuiceandfreshoranges.

MATCHASOURCEmatchasource.comMatcha.

MELISSA’SPRODUCEmelissas.comAvarietyoffreshanddriedfruitsandvegetables,includingbloodoranges,crystallizedginger,driedchiles(chipotle,deárbol,guajillo,pasilla,andothers),Jerusalemartichokes,pomegranates,serranochiles,shisoleaves,andtomatillos,aswellasnuts,herbsandspices,tofu,lemonverbena,andLatinAmericanproducts.

MEXGROCERmexgrocer.comAuthenticandhard-to-findMexicanproducts,includingIbarrachocolate.

MIDWESTHOMEBREWINGANDWINEMAKINGSUPPLIESmidwestsupplies.comChampagneyeast.

MYSPICESAGEmyspicesage.comAwideselectionofspices,herbs,seasonings,andotheringredients,includingsmokedSpanishpaprika,lavender,anddriedchiles.

THEOLIVEOILSOURCEoliveoilsource.com

OrganicoliveoilfromCalifornia,aswellasvinegars.

PACIFICRIMGOURMETpacificrimgourmet.comExoticingredientsfromthePacificRim,includingVietnamesericepaperspringrollwrappersandcoconutmilk.

SALTWORKSsaltworks.usAwidevarietyofgourmetsalts,includingMaldonseasalt.

THESPICEHOUSEthespicehouse.comHigh-qualityherbsandspices,includingsumac,Aleppopepper,saffron,andlavender.

SPICESTATIONspicestationsilverlake.comHerbs,spices,seasonings,andteas,includingDarjeelingtea,sumac,andlavender.

WORLDSPICEMERCHANTSworldspice.comHerbs,spices,andteas,includingsumac,driedchiles,lavender,andLapsangsouchong,Darjeeling,andjasmineteas.

EQUIPMENT

THEBOSTONSHAKERthebostonshaker.comCocktailshakers,strainers,glasses,andmeasuringjiggers.

CHAMPIONJUICERchampionjuicer.comMasticatingjuicer.

CRATEANDBARRELcrateandbarrel.comCookware,bakeware,smallappliances,cutlery,storagecontainers,gadgets,andutensils.

CUISINARTcuisinartwebstore.comFoodprocessors,cookware,blenders,standmixers,andice-creammakers.

CULINARYDISTRICTculinarydistrict.comCookware,bakeware,smallappliances,cutlery,storagecontainers,gadgets,andutensils.

HOMEBREWHEAVENhomebrewheaven.comFlip-topbottles.

HUROMslowjuicer.comSlowJuicerjuiceextractor.

KEREKESbakedeco.comFlexiblesiliconebabapansfortimbales.

MIDWESTHOMEBREWINGANDWINEMAKINGSUPPLIESmidwestsupplies.comFlip-topbottles.

THEOLIVEOILSOURCEOliveoilsource.comBottlesandspouts.

OMEGAomegajuicers.comAvarietyofjuicers.

Avarietyofjuicers.

SURLATABLEsurlatable.comCookware,bakeware,smallappliances,cutlery,storagecontainers,gadgets,andutensils.

WILLIAMS-SONOMAwilliams-sonoma.comBouchonmolds,cookware,bakeware,smallappliances,cutlery,storagecontainers,gadgets,andutensils.

ALTERNATIVEFOODSOURCINGRESOURCES

HILLSIDEPRODUCECOOPERATIVEhillsideproducecooperative.org/a-chapter-near-youAguidetostartingacooperativeproduceexchangeinyourownneighborhood.

HYPERLOCAVOREhyperlocavore.comYard-sharingmatchmakersiteconnectingpeopleinterestedinsharingsurplusproduce,gardenspace,yardskills,andresources.

LOCALHARVESTlocalharvest.orgAnonlineresourceforfindinglocallygrownproduce.Searchnationwideforfarms,CSAs(community-supportedagriculturesites),farmers’markets,andgrocerystoresandfoodco-opsthatmaycarrylocalproduce.

SHAREDEARTHsharedearth.comAnorganizationthatconnectslandownerswithgardenersandfarmers.

UNITEDSTATESDEPARTMENTOFAGRICULTURE,AGRICULTURALMARKETINGSERVICEapps.ams.usda.gov/FarmersMarketsAnational,searchabledatabaseoffarmers’markets.

Anational,searchabledatabaseoffarmers’markets.

IndexAAgavesyrupAioli,VeganAlcoholAlmonds

AlmondMilkCharosetTartChocolateTrufflesDukkahwithRusticBreadFrangipaneHorchataMaple-GingerAlmondsMultigrainKutiawithAlmonds,Cherries,andChocolatetoastingWarmOlivesandAlmonds

ApplesCharosetTart

ApricotsCharosetTart

AquavitVeganMary

ArtichokesArtichokeHeartSoupConfusedArtichokeSoupRoastedBrownBagVegetables

AvocadosCevichedeVegan

BBakedRatatouilleBakingsheetsandpansBasil

BreakfastStrataEggplantParma-StylePestoTofuCapreseStackZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

BasmatiRicePuddingBeans

CurriedChickpeaSnackFavaBeanSaladGarbanzoBeanandTomatoSoupGarbanzoBeanSoccaHummuswithTahiniTomatoandThree-BeanSalad

BeerShandy

Bellini,LemonVerbenaBellpeppers

BreakfastStrataCevichedeVeganFavaBeanSaladMuhammaraRoastedPepperInvoltiniSummerRollswithTwoDippingSauces

BerriesBlueberryandEarlGreySorbetSweetCremawithBerriesandChambord

BlackCurrantDressingBlenders

BloodOrangeMargaritaBlueberryandEarlGreySorbetBowlsBread

DukkahwithRusticBreadFrenchToastwithCardamomPearCompoteGarbanzoBeanSoccaTwenty-One-HourBoule

BreakfastFriesBreakfastStrataBroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushroomsBrusselsSproutSlaw

CCakes

GingerPoundCakewithMatchaGlazePistachioOliveOilCake

CanolaoilCarrots

BroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushroomsRoastedBrownBagVegetablesSummerRollswithTwoDippingSauces

CashewsBreakfastStrataCashewCremaPineNutCremaPiñonTartSmokyCashewsSweetCremawithBerriesandChambordZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

CeleryRootandFennelChowderCevichedeVegan

Chambord,SweetCremawithBerriesandChard

BreakfastStrataCharosetTartCherries,MultigrainKutiawithAlmonds,Chocolate,andChickpeas.SeeGarbanzobeansChiles

ChilePeanutsGuajilloandChiledeÁrbolSalsaPoblanoChilesRellenosSalsaNegraSalsaRoja

ChocolateChocolateSeaSaltTartChocolate-TahiniTimbalesChocolateTrufflesCocoaTartShellMexicanChocolateGelatoMultigrainKutiawithAlmonds,Cherries,andChocolateRosewaterHotChocolate

Chowder,CeleryRootandFennelCitrusjuicersCocktailshakersCocoapowderCocoaTartShellCoconut

toastingVanillaCoconutFlan

CoffeeDateswithCoffeeCremaEspressoGelato

Coffeeliqueur

Chocolate-TahiniTimbalesMexicanWhiteRussian

ColandersConfusedArtichokeSoupCookingspraysCorn

FavaBeanSaladMaple-ChipotlePecanPopcornPoblanoChilesRellenos

Crackers,ParchmentFlatbreadCrema

CashewCremaCoffeeCremaPineNutCremaSweetCremawithBerriesandChambord

CucumbersCevichedeVeganFavaBeanSaladSummerRollswithTwoDippingSauces

CurriedChickpeaSnackCurriedWalnuts

DDarjeelingHimalayanRailwayChaiTeaDates

CharosetTartDateswithCoffeeCremaMoroccanOrangeSaladSearedTofuwithDateBarbecueSauce

DessertsBasmatiRicePuddingBlueberryandEarlGreySorbet

CharosetTartChocolateSeaSaltTartChocolate-TahiniTimbalesChocolateTrufflesDateswithCoffeeCremaEspressoGelatoGingerFlanGingerPoundCakewithMatchaGlazeGreenTeaFlanHazelnutHalvahMaple-ChipotlePecanPopcornMexicanChocolateGelatoOrangeandSaffronPaletasPiñonGelatoPiñonTartPistachioOliveOilCakeSweetCremawithBerriesandChambordTea-PoachedPearsinCaramelSauceVanillaCoconutFlan

DipsHummuswithTahiniMuhammara

DrinksAlmondMilkBloodOrangeMargaritaDarjeelingHimalayanRailwayChaiTeaGingerBeerHorchataLavenderLemonadeLavender-TangerineMartiniLemonVerbenaBelliniLimoncello

MexicanWhiteRussianRosewaterHotChocolateShandyShisoLeafMartiniVeganMary

DukkahwithRusticBread

EEggplant

BakedRatatouilleEggplantParma-Style

EquipmentEspresso.SeeCoffee

FFavaBeanSaladFennelandCeleryRootChowderFigs

CharosetTartFigPastePolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigs

FlanGingerFlanGreenTeaFlanVanillaCoconutFlan

FoodprocessorsFrangipaneFrenchToastwithCardamomPearCompoteFruits.Seealsoindividualfruitscannedorfrozen

dried,(MORE)growing

purchasing

GGarbanzobeans

CurriedChickpeaSnackGarbanzoBeanandTomatoSoupGarbanzoBeanSoccaHummuswithTahini

GarlicGarlicMushroomsSalsaNegraVeganAioliWarmOlivesandAlmonds

GelatoEspressoGelatoMexicanChocolateGelatoPiñonGelato

GingerGingerBeerGingerFlanGingerPoundCakewithMatchaGlaze

GrandMarnierBloodOrangeMargaritaLavender-TangerineMartiniMoroccanOrangeSalad

GrapeLeaves,GrilledTofuGreenTeaFlanGrilledTofuGrapeLeavesGuajilloandChiledeÁrbolSalsa

HHalvah,HazelnutHazelnuts

HazelnutsDukkahwithRusticBreadFigPasteHazelnutHalvahNuttyMushroomRisottoPolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigsSavoryBreakfastTartstoastingandskinning

Herbs,freshvs.dried,(MORE)Horchata

MexicanWhiteRussianHummuswithTahini

IIce-creammakersIngredientsourcing

JJicamaSalad

KKnivesKutia,Multigrain,withAlmonds,Cherries,andChocolate

LLapsangSouchongRiceLasagna,Zucchini,withPestoLavender

LavenderLemonadeLavenderSimpleSyrupLavender-TangerineMartini

LecithinLeeks

LeeksCeleryRootandFennelChowderSavoryBreakfastTartsZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

LemonsGingerBeerLavenderLemonadeLemonVerbenaBelliniLimoncello

LemonVerbenaBelliniLentils

PolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigsLimoncelloMMandolinesMaplesyrup

FrenchToastwithCardamomPearCompoteMaple-ChipotlePecanPopcornMaple-GingerAlmonds

Margarita,BloodOrangeMartinis

Lavender-TangerineMartiniShisoLeafMartini

MatchaGlazeMayonnaise,veganMeasuringcupsandspoonsMexicanChocolateGelatoMexicanWhiteRussianMicroplanegratersMilk

AlmondMilknondairy

MixersMoroccanOrangeSaladMuhammaraMultigrainKutiawithAlmonds,Cherries,andChocolateMushrooms

BreakfastStrataBroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushroomsGarlicMushroomsNuttyMushroomRisottoPolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigsSavoryBreakfastTartsYubaSpringRolls

N(No)CheesePlateNuts.Seealsoindividualnuts

NuttyMushroomRisottopurchasingSpicedNutsstoringtoasting

OOlives

CevichedeVeganoilPistachioOliveOilCakeWarmOlivesandAlmonds

OnionsRoastedBrownBagVegetables

OrangesBloodOrangeMargarita

MoroccanOrangeSaladOrangeandSaffronPaletas

PPaletas,OrangeandSaffronPansParchmentFlatbreadCrackersPastamachinesPeanuts

ChilePeanutsPeanutDippingSauce

PearsFrenchToastwithCardamomPearCompotePearChipsTea-PoachedPearsinCaramelSauce

PecanPopcorn,Maple-ChipotlePepitas,SpicyPepperPestoPhyllo

BakedRatatouillePinenuts(piñons,pignolia)

ChocolateTrufflesFavaBeanSaladMuhammaraPineNutCremaPiñonGelatoPiñonTarttoastingZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

PistachiosDukkahwithRusticBread

MoroccanOrangeSaladPistachioOliveOilCaketoastingVanilla-MintPistachios

PoblanoChilesRellenosPolentawithWildMushrooms,Hazelnuts,andFigsPomegranates

PistachioOliveOilCakePopcorn,Maple-ChipotlePecanPotatoes

BreakfastFriesCeleryRootandFennelChowderCevichedeVeganPotatoeswithAioliPotatoTorteRoastedBrownBagVegetables

PotsandpansPudding,BasmatiRice

QQuincePaste

RRatatouille,BakedRice

BasmatiRicePuddingHorchataLapsangSouchongRiceNuttyMushroomRisotto

RoastedBrownBagVegetablesRoastedPepperInvoltiniRolls

SummerRollswithTwoDippingSaucesYubaSpringRolls

RosewaterHotChocolate

SSaladdressings

BlackCurrantDressingWendy'sVinaigrette

SaladsBrusselsSproutSlawFavaBeanSaladJicamaSaladMoroccanOrangeSaladTofuCapreseStackTomatoandThree-BeanSalad

Salsas.SeeSaucesandsalsasSaltSaucesandsalsas

DateBarbecueSauceGuajilloandChiledeÁrbolSalsaPeanutDippingSaucePestoSalsaNegraSalsaRojaSoyDippingSauceTomatilloSalsaTomatoSauceVeganshireSauce

SavoryBreakfastTartsScalesSearedTofuwithDateBarbecueSauceSesameseeds

DukkahwithRusticBreadtoasting

ShandyShisoLeafMartiniShortening,veganSievesSiliconebakingmatsSimpleSyrup,LavenderSlaw,BrusselsSproutSmokyCashewsSocca,GarbanzoBeanSorbet,BlueberryandEarlGreySoups

ArtichokeHeartSoupCeleryRootandFennelChowderConfusedArtichokeSoupGarbanzoBeanandTomatoSoup

SoyDippingSauceSoymilkSpatulasSpicedNutsSpicemillsSpicesSpicyPepitasSpinach

BreakfastStrataSpoons,(MORE)SpringRolls,YubaSqueezebottlesStock,Vegetable,(MORE)Strata,BreakfastSugar

SummerRollswithTwoDippingSaucesSweetCremawithBerriesandChambordSweetenersSyrup,LavenderSimple

TTahini

Chocolate-TahiniTimbalesHummuswithTahini

Tangerine-LavenderMartiniTapasPlate,VeganTapiocastarchTartpansTarts

CharosetTartChocolateSeaSaltTartCocoaTartShellPiñonTartSavoryBreakfastTartsTartShell

TeaBlueberryandEarlGreySorbetDarjeelingHimalayanRailwayChaiTeaGingerPoundCakewithMatchaGlazeGreenTeaFlanLapsangSouchongRiceTea-PoachedPearsinCaramelSauce

TequilaBloodOrangeMargarita

ThermometersThreeSalsaswithHomemadeTortillaChipsTimbales,Chocolate-Tahini

TimersTofu

BreakfastStrataBroiledTofu,Carrots,andShiitakeMushroomsCashewCremaDateswithCoffeeCremaFrangipaneGrilledTofuGrapeLeavesPiñonTartPistachioOliveOilCakepressingRoastedPepperInvoltiniSavoryBreakfastTartsSearedTofuwithDateBarbecueSauceSweetCremawithBerriesandChambordTofuCapreseStackVanillaCoconutFlanVeganAioliYubaSpringRolls

TomatillosGuajilloandChiledeÁrbolSalsaTomatilloSalsa

TomatoesBakedRatatouilleCevichedeVeganEggplantParma-StyleGarbanzoBeanandTomatoSouppeelingandseedingRoastedPepperInvoltiniSalsaRojaTofuCapreseStackTomatoandThree-BeanSalad

TomatoSauceVeganMaryZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

Torte,PotatoTortillaChipsTruffles,ChocolateTwenty-One-HourBoule

VVanilla

VanillaCoconutFlanVanilla-MintPistachios

VeganAioliVeganMaryVeganshireSauceVeganTapasPlateVegetablepeelersVegetables.Seealsoindividualvegetables

cannedorfrozengrowingpurchasingRoastedBrownBagVegetablessourcingVegetableStock,(MORE)

VermouthShisoLeafMartini

VodkaLavender-TangerineMartiniLimoncelloMexicanWhiteRussianShisoLeafMartini

WWalnuts

BrusselsSproutSlawCharosetTartCurriedWalnutsMuhammaraPestotoastingZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

WarmOlivesandAlmondsWaterWendy'sVinaigretteWhisksWhiteRussian,MexicanWine

CharosetTartLemonVerbenaBellini

YYeast,nutritionalYubaSpringRolls

ZZucchini

BakedRatatouillePoblanoChilesRellenosZucchiniLasagnawithPesto

TableofEquivalentsTheexactequivalentsinthefollowingtableshavebeenroundedforconvenience.

LIQUID/DRYMEASUREMENTS

U.S. Metric¼teaspoon 1.25milliliters½teaspoon 2.5milliliters1teaspoon 5milliliters1tablespoon(3teaspoons) 15milliliters1fluidounce(2tablespoons) 30milliliters¼cup 60milliliters⅓cup 80milliliters½cup 120milliliters1cup 240milliliters1pint(2cups) 480milliliters1quart(4cups,32ounces) 960milliliters1gallon(4quarts) 3.84liters1ounce(byweight) 28grams1pound 448grams2.2pounds 1kilogram

LENGTHS

U.S. Metric1M8inch 3millimeters¼inch 6millimeters

¼inch 6millimeters½inch 12millimeters1inch 2.5centimeters

OVENTEMPERATURE

Fahrenheit Celsius Gas250 120 ½275 140 1300 150 2325 160 3350 180 4375 190 5400 200 6425 220 7450 230 8475 240 9500 260 10

JosephShuldinerisagraphicdesigner,photographer,writer,andcookwithapassionforgourmetplant-basedrecipes,D.I.Y.cuisine,andlocallysourcedingredients.HeistheownerandcreativedirectorofShuldinerStudio,adesignandconsultingfirm.HelivesinLosAngeleswithhispartnerandtheirthreecats.PureVeganishisfirstbook.

EmilyBrookeSandorisafood,travel,stilllife,andcookbookphotographerbasedinLosAngeles.

Textcopyright©2012byJosephShuldiner.

Photographscopyright©2012byEmilyBrookeSandorandJosephShuldiner.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable.eISBN978-1-4521-0873-5

Thephotographerswishtothankthefollowingcompaniesfortheirassistanceintheproductionofthisbook:Melissa’sProduce,EarthBalance,ChadoTeaRoom,GreenBarCollective,TableArt,DiamondFoam&Fabric,andCiscoHome.

ChronicleBooksLLC680SecondStreetSanFrancisco,California94107

www.chroniclebooks.com