Prong Collar Training for Pet Dogs The only resource you’ll need to train your pet dog with the aid of a prong

collar

Check out the free training videos on my website! https://www.tedsbooks.com/prong-collar-book/

Published by Ted Efthymiadis Halifax NS Canada

www.tedsbooks.com

Copyright © 2018 by Ted Efthymiadis. All rights reserved.

Contents Introduction

● First things first ● The benefits and costs of prong collar training

Chapter 1: Tools

● Introduction to prong collars ● Fitting your prong collar ● Leashes ● Left side or right side? ● How to hold your leash

Chapter 2: Foundation Training

● Introducing the prong collar to your dog ● Yard work ● Using food with your prong collar

Chapter 3: The Future is Bright

● Going for your first leash walk with the prong collar ● 180 turns ● The arm correction ● The stop short correction

Chapter 4: Questions and Answers

● What do I do if I find that my dog's neck is being irritated by the prong collar? ● I’ve heard that small dogs should only use harnesses for walking because their

necks are very sensitive to any collar, is this true? ● How much should I let my dog stop and smell when I’m walking? ● What if my dog is leash aggressive towards other dogs or people? ● I find the prong collar extremely effective for my walking, can I use it for other

behavioral issues inside the home? ● What should I do if my dog is very dramatic about the prong collar?

● What do I do if my dog stops pulling when I give a correction but goes right back to pulling again?

● What do I do if my dog chews on his leash when we go for a walk? ● What do I do if my dog vocalizes or yipes when I use the prong collar? ● I have two dogs, should I start them together or separately? ● How old should my dog or puppy be before I try using a prong collar on them? ● When can I stop using the prong collar? ● Final thoughts

Introduction First things first I knew absolutely nothing about dogs the day I adopted Phoenix from a local shelter, but, to my credit, I was committed for the long haul. In the house, Phoenix was the embodiment of the perfect dog, but when he got outside all bets were off. My back pain started the moment I opened the front door; it was like watching a team of huskies pulling a sled. Given that you’re reading this book, you can likely sympathize with my issues. After a few weeks of enduring his aggravating leash behaviors, I decided that enough was enough, and I called the shelter looking for help. They promptly referred me to a local dog trainer with more than thirty years of experience who directed me to an eight-week obedience class that was held in a church auditorium. These classes didn't help his leash walking at all. Our trainers barely spent fifteen minutes on leash walking, and the food-based techniques they taught me did not prove fruitful in the real world. After an additional two months of practicing several techniques they taught me on my own, nothing had changed and I was starting to lose my patience. I detested walking Phoenix because he was out of control and I felt helpless. Because we were taught that using any dog training tool that was even remotely negative was wrong and abusive, I decided to start with the more positive tools. Saying that he loathed wearing a head halter is an understatement, and he continued to pull. He loved it when I introduced a harness because it gave him more ability to pull and lunge.

We were taught two methods that now seem laughable to me but I gave them their due time and effort. The two techniques were ones I still hear other trainers recommend every day and it’s likely that you’ve also tried them:

1. Use cut up pieces of hot dogs to lure your dog's nose to be at your side which will prevent pulling

2. The moment your dog starts to pull, stop and don’t move forward until he allows the leash to be loose

While these methods might work with some dogs, they didn’t work for my lunatic. After another three months, I just couldn’t deal with the back pain anymore. I had been working on his leash issues for about seven months, and I was not making any progress. Phoenix was sixty-five pounds of pure muscle, and he knew that there were no consequences for his disobedience. So I finally decided to ignore the advice that the trainers had given me and bought a choke chain. Despite the choke chain, he continued to pull but things were even worse because he was now also hacking and coughing because he was straining so hard on the choke chain. A few days later, I found myself at rock bottom. I had stopped on a sidewalk to give my aching back a break and was crying. Not my finest moment, but it needed to happen. I just couldn’t do it anymore. This was 15 years ago, and I’ll never forget how hopeless I felt. My pain paved the way to a new life that day, and it’s the reason I’m a professional dog trainer today. That pain has inspired me to help those who feel hopeless like I once did. Back in those pre-youtube days, dog training information was incredibly hard to come by, but I managed to find some information about prong collars on an early police dog training internet forum. Many of the police dog trainers talked about prong collars, so I did an internet search. When I saw a photo of a prong collar (also known as a pinch collar), I was very put off. Admittedly I thought that the prongs would stick into my dog's neck and make him bleed. The police dog trainers on this forum were incredibly generous with their time, and I quickly became friends with several of them. They all assured me that they used prong collars every day on their police dogs and found them to be a game changer. They insisted that the collar would not make my dog's neck bleed or otherwise injure my dog and suggested I buy one as soon as possible. The pet store I went to didn’t have any prong collars in stock when I examined the collar isle. I asked the women at the cash register if she had any prong collars in stock, and she lowered her voice and whispered when she asked, “what size did you want?” I replied that a medium should work, and she looked around the store like she was

making a drug deal. She bent down and rummaged under the front desk, found a medium sized prong collar and rolled it up in a plastic bag before handing it to me over the counter. On the way home I pondered over the level of secrecy I had just witnessed, and it made me second guess my purchase. Nonetheless, I was committed to at least give it a try and so I went home and re-read my rudimentary instructions from the police dog handlers before trying out the prong collar. Straight away I put the prong collar on Phoenix and did some basic foundation training before leaving my house. In just seconds, I noticed that he seemed much more sensitive to the prong collar than any other tool I had tinkered with previously. We went outside, and after five minutes of walking, I was crying again. These tears were not tears of sadness but tears of joy. Phoenix was practically a different dog after five minutes of training. My tears of joy were shed just two blocks from the sidewalk location that had witnessed my rock bottom tear-fest just weeks prior. That walk lasted over an hour and a half, and it changed my life. Before that day, I used to walk Phoenix for the shortest amount of time possible because it was so embarrassing and uncomfortable, and here I was finally enjoying a walk with Phoenix. So this begs the question, will the prong collar fix all of your leash issues with your dog in five minutes like it did for me? It’s possible, but it will likely take a little more time and technique. Clearly, it wasn't because of my excellent technique that he did as well as he did. I was a dufus; the collar did the work. Having trained over a thousand dogs to walk nicely on a prong collar, the prong collar typically fixes about 75% of the issues on the first walk. My clients are always astounded by the changes they see. If you're reading this book, you probably own a dog that’s a hassle to walk, and I can definitely sympathize with that. I started out just like you, and now I’m a professional dog trainer who travels around the world teaching dog owners and dog trainers how to live a more fulfilling life with their dogs. People turn to me when they’re convinced they have tried everything. This short book will walk you through the basics of prong collar training and aid you in the journey of mastering your leash walks. The benefits and costs of prong collar training The prong collar is most known for its ability to empower dog owners who are struggling with leash walking issues like pulling and lunging as well as its benefits in treating leash reactivity. Some tools in dog training are incredibly versatile but I don’t count the prong collar to be in this group. It’s a one-hit wonder of sorts, but for the people struggling with the issues listed above, it often proves to be a complete game changer.

You’ll want to adhere to a few basic common sense rules if you use a prong collar to train your dog.

● Never leave a prong collar on your dog if they go in a dog crate for any period of time

● Never tie your dog outside when wearing a prong collar ● Never use a retractable leash in conjunction with a prong collar ● If your prong collar is not the correct size or is not properly fit, the collar will prove

to be ineffective It's unknown why the prong collar works as well as it does. Many have theorized over the years, and to my knowledge, the best theory says that the prong collar feels like the bite from another. This could be a complete fabrication, and I doubt that I'll ever know, but what I do know is that it is extremely effective and saves the lives of many dogs every year. What many dog trainers don't want to talk about is all of the dogs that die when training doesn't work. When the client gets fed up and brings the dog back to the shelter, many of those dogs will never leave the walls of the shelter alive. I'm the first to suggest that dog owners start with positive methods and positive tools, but if it's going to come down to a dog being forced into a shelter or put down, let's have some common sense and at least try a tool like a prong collar.

Chapter 1: Tools Introduction to prong collars A traditional prong collar will be made of steel and is then finished with chrome to protect the metal from rusting when it gets wet. Each prong collar is made up of separate links and a chain to keep it all functioning as one unit. Links can be added or removed to increase or decrease the overall size of the collar. Prong collars generally come in four sizes: small, medium, large, and extra-large. Extra small versions are also available for very small dogs. Prong collar sizes are determined by the thickness of the prong collar links:

● 10-14” neck circumference = 2.25mm or small ● 14-18” neck circumference = 3.00mm or medium ● 18-22” neck circumference = 3.25mm or large ● 18-22” neck circumference = 3.25mm or extra large

Small, medium, large, and extra large prongs

Measure your dog's neck at the very top just behind the ears before ordering or buying your prong collar. If your prong collar is too large when you get it, you can remove a link or two to ensure a proper fit. Removing more than two or three links is typically not suggested. The same can be said for adding additional links to your prong collar. If you’ve done your measurements correctly you should have at least one additional link

left over. However, you can add one or two additional links if required before needing to go up to the next size. Many prong collars come without a buckle or quick release to aid you in putting on the collar or taking it off your dog which leads many dog owners to improperly put the collar on their dog with too many links on the collar. Buying a prong collar that has a quick release built into it can make the process of putting on the collar much easier. However, most prong collars do not come with this feature.

A prong collar made from plastic made by Starmark Pet Products

Fitting your prong collar Unless your prong collar is equipped with a specific quick-release feature, you’ll need to learn how to disassemble and assemble the prong collar to put it on your dog. This skill can take some getting used to so be sure to practice. To disassemble your prong collar you’ll take two fingers in one hand and grasp a link in the middle of the collar. Don’t disassemble your collar by disconnecting the links on the ends of the prong collar. Pick two links in the middle of the collar to connect and disconnect. You’ll use thumb of your right hand to press down on the round section of one link while pushing up with your two fingers with your left hand. (See photo below). Now you should have separated the collar and are ready to put it on your dog. Place the open prong collar around your dog's neck and then pinch the two prongs of the link together as it pops into the connecting link. You can now attach your leash to the D ring. It’s also suggested that you slowly rotate the prong collar on your dog's neck so that the D ring is facing toward the back of your dog's neck before attaching your leash. Over the years, I've noticed that prong collars have an inherent flaw in their design. Prong collars are susceptible to coming apart randomly when you least expect it, so I always use a safety mechanism to ensure that if something does happen the dog I’m training will still be attached to the leash. Keep in mind that only about 1 in 50 of my clients will ever see a prong collar come apart, but it’s worth the effort to ensure this doesn’t happen. The easiest way to make a safety mechanism is to use a carabiner to solve this potential flaw in the design. Carabiners are inexpensive to purchase and are available at all sporting stores, big box stores, and dollar stores. Attach the carabiner to the O ring of your prong collar and then also attach to another collar on your dog.

Installation tips 1: Push down with right thumb and up with left hand 2: Disassemble and place around your dogs neck 3: Pinch the two prongs together and fit into the link 4: You’re done! 5: Rotate the D ring towards the back of your dogs neck and then connect your carabiner to the O ring on your prong collar.

Fully assembled prong collar with carabiner installed for safety

Many dog owners will turn the collar inside out and slide it over their dogs head and then flip it over. This is never a good idea because it will be far from a proper snug fit if you do it this way. I’ve also seen some dog owners add so many additional links to the

collar that they can simply slip the collar over their dogs head and this is also not advised because the collar will not be effective. You’ll want to get your collar as high up on your dog's neck as possible. As a general rule, if you can get the collar on your dog it’s not too tight. Your prong collar should have a snug fit on your dogs neck and be placed as high on your dogs neck as possible if you want to use it properly. The difference between a few extra links will make your prong collar at least 50% less effective so be sure to properly fit your collar. Leashes Leather, cotton, nylon, biothane, 4’, 6’, 8’ so much to choose from. If all of these options make you anxious just remember that the best leash is the one that you have with you. For leash training, I typically suggest a six-foot length, however, eight-foot also is a good length if that’s all that you have available. The four-foot versions are too short and not ideal for some of the exercises you’ll want to do with your prong collar. The material doesn’t matter. Many trainers use leather leashes because as the years go on the leather becomes soft and easy on your hands. Personally, if I were shopping for a leash with a client I would tell take them to Walmart and buy the most basic $10 six-foot leash we could find. You don’t need bungee leashes or any other special features. Basic is best. Be sure to have a leash that fits the size of your dog. I’ve seen small twenty-pound dogs come in on leashes that were designed to endure a full-throttle lunge of a mastiff and one hundred twenty-pound dogs come in on flimsy little shoelace leashes, which is something to avoid for obvious safety concerns. Metal chain leashes are terrible for properly training your dog because they will hurt your hands when you start your exercises. If you have a chain leash, please buy a new leash before starting your training. Some dog owners use chain leashes because their dog chews on the leash when they go for a walk, and they find that the chain leash helps minimize that. If that’s something you are struggling with, see the question and answer section in Chapter Four to get three techniques to solve the issue.

The thumb loop and leash clip

A carabiner and plastic tips for prong collars

Left side or right side? An endless debate amongst dog trainers and dog owners. It really doesn’t matter or make a difference. Don’t overthink this step because it’s personal preference. Most dog trainers suggest that you walk your dog on the left side simply because they were handed down that ethos from a mentor many years ago. When a client asks me what side they should walk their dog on, I take their dog's leash from them, walk their dog around for a few moments, and then hand the leash back to the client while I mentally note which hand they grab the leash with. The hand that the client grabs the leash with is the client’s most confident side. This is a subtle method I use to determine a client's most confident hand. Over the years, I’ve seen many dog owners come to me struggling with their dog because they were forced to walk their dogs on a side that is not conducive to the client feeling confident. If you were left-handed and had a teacher in school force you to use your right hand wouldn't you question the teachers teaching ability? Use the side that you decide allows you to feel most confident. When asked why so many dog trainers make their clients walk their dogs on the left side, many of them don’t have an answer other than that they were taught that way by their own mentors. In reality, the left side was chosen many years ago by trainers who competed in dog sports, and the tradition was pasted onto pet dog homes by these trainers who not only trained competition dogs but also pet dogs. Gone are the days of your dog pulling you down the road like a horse pulling a chariot. Your dog should not be allowed to walk ahead of you too far as it will create issues and complications which we will unpack in later chapters. Left or right is up to you but keep them on one side. Allowing your dog slightly ahead or behind you is ok as long as they don’t take advantage of the freedom you give them. Contrary to what some dog trainers say, if your dog is ahead of you, he’s not trying to dominate you. Often I don’t allow clients dogs to walk out too far ahead because it can create several issues but these issues have little to do with dominance and more to do with the dog just wanting to go faster. If a client's dog is constantly pulling on the end of the leash and not leaving any slack, that dog is not capable of making great choices yet. To the same point, if your dog is ahead of you, it’s much more likely that your dog will be zigzagging around on the leash making your dog a tripping hazard. It’s best to keep your dog to one side and only allow them a few feet of travel moving ahead or behind. You’re in control from this day forward and remember a quote I like to share: “If you give your dog two options, they will likely choose the one that makes you look like an idiot.” How to hold your leash

You may snicker at the thought of having such a large section in this book focusing on how to hold your dog's leash, but it’s an important skill to learn if you want to truly master your leash walks. The anatomy of the leash consists of three parts. The thumb loop, leash, and clip. It’s my experience that most dog owners and a large majority of dog trainers don’t know how to hold a leash properly. Additionally, most aren’t educated on what that loop at the end of the leash is for. Many assume that loop is supposed to act as a handle so you can hold on for dear life. That loop is called a thumb loop, and it’s on your leash for a reason. To illustrate the use of the thumb loop, it’s best to show you a style of holding a leash that’s called a thumb lock.

The one-handed thumb lock technique

The thumb lock is typically used when you are not giving your dog the entire length of the leash. The thumb lock can be adjusted to whatever length you desire, and many use the thumb lock when they need to keep their dog close, such as when another dog is passing on the same side of the sidewalk. It can be used with one hand or you can add your free hand for an even more secure technique. The one- and two-handed techniques are by far the most secure ways to hold a dog leash because the majority of the leash pressure is distributed more evenly throughout your hand and thumb instead of crushing your fingers.

The one-handed (left) and two-handed (right) thumb lock technique

If you are going to give your dog the entire length of the leash, practicing a stop short correction, or are practicing 180-degree turns (more on those techniques in the next chapters), you’ll also want to know about a posting. Posting is the technique of using a thumb lock while using your other free hand to grab the closest part of the leash after the thumb lock. When posting you’ll want to keep your hands low so that any pressure your dog puts on the leash will be evenly distributed toward your bodies core. This greatly decreases the likelihood of hurting your arm or back when walking or training

your dog. The posting method is one that has saved my back countless times when working with dogs that weigh a hundred pounds or more who are terrible on the leash. Even a strong thirty-five-pound dog can cause serious back pain. Your natural inclination will not be to keep your hands low when you start; however it’s essential to show your back some love when walking or training your dog.

Posting technique

Chapter 2: Foundation Training

Introducing the prong collar to your dog Now that you’ve got your prong collar properly fit on your dog's neck, have your safety carabiner installed and have your leash connected to it, you can get started with your first session. You’ll want to begin inside your home or apartment because if you go

directly outside it’s going to be more difficult for your dog to learn what you are about to teach. Don’t worry, you’ll be outside in ten minutes! Have a friend or family member that your dog is comfortable with help you with this step. Start your session by getting a handful of your dog's favorite treats or some toys that they love to play tug with. You’ll have the leash in your hands, and your friend will be sitting in a chair with the treats or toys. You’ll be about ten feet away from your friend, and your dog will be in the middle. Give your dog just enough room on the leash to get close to your friend with the treats or toys but not close enough to get the ball or treats. Your friend can even incentivize your dog by moving the toy or showing them that they have treats. At this point, your dog should be at the end of the leash and will likely be slightly straining on the leash and prong collar. You can then add a slight amount of pressure on the leash towards you. When your dog backs away from your friend (and gives to the leash pressure), you can drop the leash and tell your dog to go get the treat or to go play with the toy. Allow your dog to get a treat or play for fifteen to thirty seconds and then start again. If you find that your dog is not responding to the slight leash pressure, you can add some gentle leash tugs. Remember that when I suggest gentle leash tugs, you’ll use just a few fingers worth of pressure when you give the tug. The leash tug is not a strong correction. Your dog should back up a few steps, and most dogs will also sit and wait, when this happens you can drop the leash and tell them to go and get the treat or play with the toy. You only need to do about five to eight repetitions before you are ready to go outside and start the next step. If your dog is confused the first time you do this protocol, it’s ok as we are trying to allow them to figure out how to release that slight pressure on their neck. With a little practice, all dogs get the idea quickly. It’s helpful to underline why I didn’t suggest that you call your dog to you when adding the leash pressure. Remember that the amount of pressure you are using in this context is not causing your dog any pain and we are using that slight pressure to teach your dog how to turn off the pressure so that they will be better equipped to handle your first training session when we go outside for the next step. When adding a command to this protocol, most dogs will just leave the food or toys and go to the owner, and if this happens we have no way to actually teach the protocol. Again I want to stipulate that what we are teaching our dog is how to turn off the slight leash release so that they will be better equipped as we move forward in the next steps. This protocol only needs to be practiced for one or two sessions and should take no more than five minutes. You’ll know it’s time to progress to the next step when you allow your dog to go out to the end of the leash and they stop before they hit the

end of the leash. At this point, you can progress to the next step by taking your dog outside. Yard work After your short indoor session, you’ll take your dog outside and will want to find a yard to work in for the next few minutes. If that’s not available, a driveway or parking lot will suffice. It’s best if at all possible you can start outside in a place where there are not many distractions. Clearly, if you live in Manhattan, this will present a dilemma, and, in that case, just make do with your surroundings. You can start with your dog on your left or right side depending on your personal preference. You’ll want to hold your six-foot leash with the thumb lock, giving about three to four feet of leash to your dog. As you start to walk, walk for a few steps and when you notice your dog not paying attention to you, you’ll say come and make a quick 180 degree turn and go in the opposite direction. You can use any command here such as, “here,” “let’s go,” or even “come on, baby muffin,” it’s up to you. If your dog follows your command and directly comes with you, praise them and give them a treat. If they ignore your command, you’ll make your quick 180 degree turn and keep walking in the opposite direction. This command is essentially a warning for your dog to come, and if ignored they will have to process a correction from the prong collar because you are moving the opposite direction. I suggest starting by turning the opposite direction from the side your dog has started on. For example if you started walking with your dog on the left side you’ll want to make a right turn because if you turn left you’ll likely walk directly into your dog. To the same point, if you started walking with your dog on your right side, you’ll want to make a turn to the left. This quick turn will greatly increase your dog's focus on you. After just a few minutes, you should have your dog walking nicely on the leash, following you the moment you give that come command. This protocol is also teaching your dog to expect sudden changes when walking. If your dog follows your command to come with you they can avoid any potential correction with the prong collar. If your dog needs some extra help when making the turns, feel free to talk to them, pat your leg, or make kissing noises to help your dog know where to go. At the beginning of training, it’s essential that we do the right thing to show our dog what we want them to do before we really focus on correcting bad behavior. Be sure to help your dog through this process with praise, vocal help, and treats. Your positive motivation will incentivize your dog to follow you when walking and the negative motivation from the prong collar will incentivize your dog to avoid disreguarding your commands and changes in direction. Often, I will see clients struggle with the turn because they are only making a 90-degree turn or making a wide 180-degree turn. To rectify this issue, you'll want to visualize

yourself walking in a straight line, saying come, turning quickly, and walking in the exact opposite direction. The key is to not make a wide circle and so the best way to avoid that is to pivot on your foot when you turn. If you’re still struggling to make quick 180 turns, you can help yourself by placing a piece of rope on the grass to indicate a straight line. If you are on concrete or pavement you can draw a line with some chalk to guide your steps. If you didn’t already notice, 180 + 180 = 360. These 180-degree direction changes will aid you as you prepare to work outside in your neighborhood and if you combine two of them back to back it's a great way to persuade your dog to focus on where you are walking without completely changing directions. When your dog is following along nicely with your turns, you can take it to the street. In total, you should have practiced roughly seven to ten minutes inside the house and another seven to ten minutes in the yard or driveway. Using food with your prong collar I personally use food or treats with the vast majority of dogs that I train on a prong collar. Some folks are stuck in the 1970’s and are still convinced that using food or treats is nothing less than bribery. The thing is that they are technically correct. It is bribery, and I’m ok with that in the beginning stages of training. If you have a job do you get a paycheck or do you go to work every day just to please your boss? With that in mind, I will regularly suggest clients focus on the leash work for the first few days before really focusing on the treats, supplementing the treats with generous portions of verbal praise and petting. The idea here is that the prong collar is going to move the needle and really change how your dog walks, the food is just going to make the process more interesting and engaging, and thus I would rather have my clients focus on what they are doing with the leash until they have mastered that. The great thing about praise is that it doesn’t require you to take a hand off your leash, however using food does. Most of my clients don’t have an issue with using food, they just don’t want their dogs to be dependant on treats and I can understand that way of thinking. Focus on your leash and praise skills until you have a really good handle on your leash walking then integrate food or treats for good behavior.

Check out the free training videos on my website!

https://www.tedsbooks.com/prong-collar-book/

Chapter 3: The future is bright

Going for your first leash walk with the prong collar Take a deep breath and walk onto the sidewalk, it’s going to be ok. The leash pulling and all around tomfoolery should be cut in half already so you have cause to be confident. Your first walk can be as long as you want it to be, I suggest a minimum of ten minutes and the average is twenty to thirty minutes. Many trainers instruct their clients to use the word heel before starting to walk. If you’re wondering, heel refers to the heel of your foot and has been used for many years by dog trainers to denote a dog's position when starting, stopping, and ending a walk. This is a step that I don’t typically teach my clients because the act of putting your prong collar and leash on your dog is literally all that's needed to indicate intent for a walk. I suppose I’m also a bit of a rebel in that I don’t really care all that much about perfect precision while walking. I’m in my mid-thirties now and could hardly give a hoot about perfection. My clients just want to enjoy their walks without back pain or being embarrassed. If you’re a perfectionist, feel free to use the heel command and be a nitpicker about your walking. Start walking down your sidewalk, and when your dog starts to pull or cross in front of you, you'll have a few options.

1. Do a 180 turn, followed by a 180 turn and keep going 2. Tug on the leash (arm correction) 3. Give a stop short correction

180 turns You’ll be familiar with this techniques because it’s what you practiced outside before starting your first walk. Wait for your dog to lose focus, say come and make your quick 180-degree turn. Follow that up after a few steps with another 180 turn and keep going. Some clients find this technique to be their go-to technique to stop pulling and others find it to be a temporary crutch that doesn’t get to the root of the problem. If you find that your dog needs to turn often you’ll want to take things to the next level. Many dogs will turn with the owner and avoid the correction which is why this technique can be limiting for some dogs and owners. Give it a try for yourself. The arm correction

By far the most common method of delivering corrections with a prong collar, the traditional arm correction is very effective. Most dog owners are accustomed to this technique already, and the idea is simple. It must be noted that most dogs are much more sensitive to the prong collar than they may have been to whatever previous collar or harness you may have used in the past. Please start with gentle tugs and gradually work your way up in intensity as needed to get your dog to not only stop pulling at the moment of correction but to stop them from pulling on the remainder of the walk. Is a command needed before a correction? Many people find it only natural to say no directly before the correction. The word no or heel are not important parts in my opinion. It’s implied that your dog does not pull on the leash. If you find it natural to use a no or heel command, then continue to do so. If you don’t find it natural to give a command, then none is needed. I don’t use any, and my dogs figured it out in no time. The correction should be at a 45-degree angle away from where your dog is focusing or pulling. If you want to use the prong collar to have your dog sit, give the sit command, wait a moment, if they resist the command slowly place a subtle amount of pressure on the leash straight up towards the sky and release that pressure the moment your dog's rear end hits the ground. This technique is not a leash tug, it’s slow and even pressure upwards. Again, if adding leash pressure to get a sit, your subtle pressure will be up. If giving an arm correction, your correction will be a tug on the leash at a 45-degree angle in the opposite direction that your dog is going. The stop short correction The stop short correction is a technique that holds a lot of value for clients who are lacking in physical strength or size. Some of my clients are ninety-five pounds, and they own dogs that weigh more than one hundred pounds. The prong collar will greatly help add leverage to these clients however they may still lack the physical fortitude to give a strong enough leash correction and will need to learn a more advanced skill, a technique I call the stop short correction. This technique is also a great tool to use with dogs that are persistent about pulling even with the prong collar on. These dogs stop for a few moments when given an arm correction and then quickly recommence with their love of pulling. Some of these persistent pullers can be indoctrinated into the faith of loose leash walking by adding an arm correction with a little more gusto. If your dog is still trying to rekindle its love affair with pulling, you’ll want to learn the stop short correction.

Unlike your 180 turns and arm corrections, you’ll want to employ the full length of the leash when utilizing the stop short correction. When using a stop short correction, you’ll want to hold the leash with a posting technique. Keep both of your arms near your belly button or hips. Right at the moment when your dog is about to pull forward and hit the end of the leash, you’ll quickly step backward. You’re not turning, just stepping back one step. I’m sure this is hard to visualize, but I’ll have to do my best. You are walking forward with your dog, and your dog’s momentum is moving forward; at the split second before he/she hits the end of the leash, you step back. The idea here is that if he/she is moving forward and you are moving backward at the exact same time, you are essentially delivering two corrections. Your dog is administering one and you are administering one. This is the factor that makes this technique so powerful with persistent pullers. This technique is hard to learn because it requires brilliant timing for it to be effective. However, it is extremely efficient if administered correctly. It’s common for clients to need some time to develop good timing and technique with this method and that should be expected. You’ll find the 180 turns and arm corrections easier to master. The one thing I commonly notice clients stumble on with this technique is the stepping back portion. Most clients will wait for the perfect timing and then just stop, and unfortunately, that's not good enough. You’ll need to step back one step at that opportune moment when you dog is just about to hit the end of he leash. See the free videos to see a sample of the stop short correction. https://www.tedsbooks.com/prong-collar-book/

Chapter 4: Questions and answers -What do I do if I find that my dog's neck is being irritated by the prong collar? Some dogs with sensitive skin can experience a small amount of redness from the prong collar. In such a case you can purchase plastic tips that will eliminate any redness caused by the prong collar.

Plastic tips for prong collar

-I’ve heard that small dogs should only use harnesses for walking because their necks are very sensitive to any collar, is this true? It’s true that very small dogs have more sensitive necks because of the size of their trachea and larynx. I’ve trained plenty of extra small dogs over the years with the smallest size of prong collar available which is the micro prong collar and it’s never been a problem because the design of the prong collars is such that it distributes the pressure around the dog's neck instead of in just one section like most other collars. If you find a harness to be a great tool for these dogs then use that tool, however, I routinely see small dogs come in who have already been to several trainers who used the harness and food, and the clients did not have great success. The best micro prong collars in the world are made in the USA. www.kimberlandcollars.com

An extra small sized (micro prong collar)

-How much should I let my dog stop and smell when I’m walking? There is no right or wrong amount to allow your dog to stop, and really it’s a question of personal preference. As a rule, I don’t like dogs to stop and pee on everything they want to if they are stopping every few seconds to mark their territory. This is most commonly seen in male dogs, but I have seen it a handful of times in female dogs. It’s normal at this point to be asking yourself, do I have to stop and let my dog use the bathroom? Yes, at this stage in training your dog should be rather close to you when on walks and no longer pulling. You’ll need to verbally tell your dog something like “ok, go

pee” from time to time because if they are being attentive, they should not be pulling you around when looking for a place to pee. Most dogs only need to have access to pee three to four times while on a walk. As for smelling other dogs, if your dog is social with other dogs and can act politely around other dogs, then it should generally be fine. If your dog wants to spin around like a lunatic when he meets other dogs this might not be a great thing to allow. Many dogs don’t do well when socializing on leash because the leash restricts their ability to run away if needed so please proceed with caution. -What if my dog is leash aggressive towards other dogs or people? That subject is outside of the scope of this book as a quick guide to using a prong collar to help with basic leash training issues. I’ll be producing another book specifically on the topic of leash reactivity and aggression so be sure to join our newsletter at www.tedbooks.com so that you’ll be notified by email when it becomes available. -I find the prong collar extremely effective for my walking, can I use it for other behavioral issues inside the home? As a general rule, I don’t suggest using the prong collar inside the home unless you are within sight of your dog at all times. You’ll need to have a leash on your dog which complicates the training process because the leash could get wrapped around the leg of a chair or table leg. If you do use it inside the house, be sure to never leave your dog unattended with the prong collar on for any period of time. Many people use the prong collar for dogs who are too excited when people come over to the home and other behavioral issues like barking at the windows, etc. -What should I do if my dog is very dramatic about the prong collar? If you follow the guidance in this book, you should not find your dog to be dramatic during the times you use the prong collar. Having said that I always suggest starting with a slip leash if your dog has a history of dramatic episodes. Over the years I have found huskies and husky mixes to be the most dramatic dogs if I were to generalize a grouping of dogs. I’m careful to take extra time with these dogs to ensure they can acclimate to the prong collar well. -What do I do if my dog stops pulling when I give a correction but goes right back to pulling again?

The stop short correction is the best option because it’s essentially a double correction and makes your dog focus on where your body is and when you are stopping. -What do I do if my dog chews on his leash when we go for a walk? If your dog chews on the leash while walking, you can do a few things.

1. Buy a product at your local pet store called bitter apple spray to spray on your leash. This product was designed to keep dogs from licking wounds and stitches after surgery. It doesn’t work with every dog, but about 50% of dogs loathe the taste.

2. Get some tin foil from your kitchen and form it around the lower part of your leash. This will stop 95% of leash chewers instantly.

3. Address the chewing with a leash correction with your prong collar on, typically I give the correction by saying no chewing then make a quick leash tug upwards.

-What do I do if my dog vocalizes or yipes when I use the prong collar? There are a few reasons why a dog might vocalize with a prong collar on. Some dogs will be vocal just because they are very vocal dogs and you’ll see these dogs being vocal regardless of the collar or harness that you use. Some dogs will vocalize because they have a lot of energy and it’s a way for them to get that energy out; I’ve seen this many times, and often it’s seen in dogs with a very high prey drive. This is most commonly seen with bully breeds, german shepherds, and miniature schnauzers but it can be seen in any breed or mix. -I have two dogs, should I start them together or separately? You must start each dog individually on prong collars. When both dogs are doing well separately then start walking them together. I usually suggest one dog on your left side and one on your right. -How old should my dog or puppy be before I try using a prong collar on them? In general, I don’t suggest using a prong collar until six months however I have seen a few dogs over the years that were just deplorable at five months. These dogs were all large breed dogs like rottweilers, mastiffs, and great danes. All of these puppies had already been to a positive trainer and had used many other collars and harnesses already before using a prong collar on them. Most often, I will suggest a head halter for puppies, but in extreme cases, a prong collar on young dogs can be of benefit with the aid of a professional trainer. -When can I stop using the prong collar?

This time frame is dependant on many factors like age, breed, and temperament. Some of my clients decide never to phase out the prong collar because they feel so confident with it and other clients want to wean off of the prong collar. Let’s start by examining what not to do when transitioning off the prong collar. The vast majority of dog owners will transition off the prong collar too soon which can be detrimental to your goal of having a reliable dog. The only thing that's more detrimental is to transition off the prong collar by going cold turkey. I’ve often seen clients get to a place where they thought they were ready to transition off the prong collar who would then stop having their dog wear the collar. These clients would have reliable dogs when wearing the collar but they would make the mistake of putting the collar in the closet too soon. The cold turkey method may work if you’re quitting smoking but is a terrible idea in prong collar training. Instead, we’ll use the method outlined below. If your dog is not wearing the prong collar, you can’t guarantee reliability in compliance with your commands. You’ll be tempted to wean off of the collar before your dog is ready, but you’ll need to be 100% consistent with your training for at least six weeks before thinking about transitioning off the prong collar. After six weeks have passed and you think your dog is ready you will continue to allow them to wear the collar for the transitioning period where you keep careful watch for any correction needed. If your dog is able to go ten days wearing the prong collar and you’ve not needed to give any corrections of lunging or pulling, you can go without the collar for a fifteen day trial period. If at the end of fifteen days you are having great success without the collar, you’ve done a great job, and you’ll no longer need your prong collar. Keeping your collar is always a great idea for doing some maintenance training to keep your dog fresh from time to time. Final thoughts Remember that some dogs will do incredibly well with the use of a prong collar and others will take a little more time. Be patient with your dog when training and walking and do your best to make it fun. If you want to try your prong collar but lack the confidence, please contact a qualified trainer in your area that can help you. Thanks for taking the time to read this book.

Check out the free training videos on my website! https://www.tedsbooks.com/prong-collar-book/

Ted Efthymiadis www.tedsbooks.com