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Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries1 LUXE ROME

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ROME

There are few cities on the planet more steeped in history, intrigue, politics, culture, romance, and jaw-dropping ancient architecture than Rome.

The sheer scale and breathtaking preservation of many of the cities greatest monuments is a joy to

behold. And then of course, there is the cooking, the staggering art, the fashion, la bella figura and of

course la dolce vita. The Romans love life, and who are we to deny them? Embrace Rome with open

arms, and go as often as you can, there’s simply nowhere like it.

The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated travelerwww.luxecityguides.com

Citi presents LUXE City Guides


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Rome is super-saturated with

visitors on all major holidays,

particularly religious ones; the

best times to visit are Nov, Jan

or Feb; Aug broils, the population

flee en masse and the city all but

shuts, but at least the streets are

relatively crowd free – your call

Fiumicino to Centro set fare by

taxi: €45 / 40 mins

Ciampino to Centro set fare by

taxi: €35 / 35 mins

Taxi drivers are notorious for

adding extras, so watch the

meter, Peter. In town, the meter’s

red dot should be next to the #1;

if not, he’s diddling you...

Check your change, Romans

rarely tip their drivers

Stillies + cobble streets don’t mix,

so break out the flats

Spring: Settimana della Cultura –

Culture Week, all state museums

are free / beniculturali.it. Sep/

Oct: Roma Europa Art Festival –

music, dance and theatre / http://

www.romaeuropa.net. Oct/Nov:

Festa del Cinema / http://www.

romacinemafest.it.

Shops generally open from 10am-

7:30pm, although smaller ones

take an afternoon pause from

1-4pm, and most close all day Sun

and on Mon mornings too

Restaurants and services

tend to close on Sunday

as well, so use this day for

museums and activities

Always book well ahead for the

city’s best tables and be sure

to reconfirm as reservations

often get ‘lost’

Service is always included, but

add up to 10% anyway

All indoor restaurants and bars

are non-smoking

Bars are legally required to let

non-patrons use loos which

is terribly useful if you’re

caught short

Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso

is a single shot, doppio is

a double shot, Americano

is a long black

Drinking cappuccino after midday

is considered a tad declassé

The intl dialing code for Italy

is +39, Rome’s city code is 6,

although this prefix is not needed

when calling mobiles; for general

emergencies dial 113

BLAH BLAH


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KIKA REPETTO

LUXE INSIDER

Style consultant Kika Repetto is the city’s go-to personal

shopper offering full or half-day bespoke itineraries tailored

to match each client’s budget and taste. Commuting between

Rome, São Paulo, Paris and London she keeps a firm finger

on the pulse of all the latest trends and forecasts, openings,

closings and city secrets.

By appt only +39 328 696 4886


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KIKA REPETTO

LUXE INSIDER

1) What’s the best time of year to visit Rome and why? Are there any special events to look out for?

May, flowers everywhere, walls covered in jasmine, the entire town is jasmine scented! Visit

the Roseto Comunale (open from May to October an amazing rose garden with 1100 different

varieties of roses – Via di Valle Murcia, 6 (Aventino)

2) What’s the one thing every visitor to Rome must do and why?

View Rome from the top! From the Passeggiata del Gianicolo by the statue of Garibaldi, from

the terrace of Musei Capitoline, or Hotel Eden’s La Terrazza dell’Eden (fantastic for drinks),

from the Pincio Villa Borghese, or from the terrace of Castel SantÁngelo. All offer sublime

views of the city around sunset.

www.museicapitolini.org • www.laterrazzadelleden.comwww.castelsantangelo.com

3) Where can you be found on a Saturday or Sunday morning?

In spring or on a sunny winter day, for lunch at Ciampini at Piazza Trinita dei Monti by the

Spanish Steps, or Bar Cafe Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina for cappuccino and

cornetti or a light lunch.

www.caffeciampini.com • www.ciampini.net

4) What’s the best local delicacy in Rome, and why and where is it worth trying?

Burrata and dried pachino tomatoes with nut bread you could die for at Roscioli, one of the

best Italian gourmet shops that has a small restaurant in the back. Make sure you book!

www.salumeriaroscioli.com

5) Where would you go for a cocktail and what would you order?

Salotto 42 at Piazza di Pietra 42. Very good drinks in a cool modern atmosphere in front of

the most striking columns in Rome, steps away from the Pantheon. Good music, and a young

and hip Roman crowd that give a sense of where the city’s scene is at right now! I love their

Bloody Mary with lots of lemon.

www.salotto42.it


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SANTA LUCIA

In late spring and all through summer can there

be anything lovelier than dining alfresco at

night on the little triangular, tree-lined terrazza

of Santa Lucia? The freshest of ingredients

are paraded for your delectation, the waiters

are beyond friendly, and its location means it’s

literally steps from the Raphael Hotel and its

glorious little rooftop bar where you will no doubt

wish to sit pre and post. Cin cin!

Largo Febo, 12 / Navona /

+39 6 6880 2427

www.santaluciaristorante.it

Dining

LUXE LOVES

LA TAVERNA DEI FORI IMPERIALI

Packed to the rafters and always popular, the

serious, no nonsense, big flavors cooking, and

cheerful, swift service keep the diners coming

back for more. If you like gingham on your table,

and classic dishes like carbonara or meat loaf on

your plate, you’ll be in heaven.

Via Madonna dei Monti 9 / Monti / +39 6 679 8643 / closed Tuesday

www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com

Dining


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SALOTTO 42

Rome’s fashionistas love the relaxed,

but chic vibe of this book-lined salon

with its great cocktails, sounds and

plush places to perch. Tucked in the

back streets behind the Pantheon and

open throughout the day, it’s a great

bolt-hole for a coffee too.

Piazza di Pietra, 42 / Pantheon / +39 6 678 5804 / closed Monday

www.salotto42.it

Bar

LUXE LOVES

IL GOCCETTO

As you amble down Via dei Banchi

Vecchi, at lunchtime, but more

especially in the evening, you’ll

see patrons spilling out onto the

street at this greatly loved and

mellow institution that specialises

in small labels from Sicily to Venice.

Fun and friendly.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 / Campo di Fioro / +39 6 686 4268 / closed Sunday

ilgoccetto.com

Bar

AL MORO

Fellini was a fan, and Valentino still is.

Head to this charming time warp for

polished woods, nostalgic photographs

and traditional recipes served up

with old-fashioned finesse. Try the

house speciality, Spaghetti Al Moro (a

version of carbonara) and don’t worry,

Franco the grumpy owner is grumpy to

everyone, not just you!

Vicolo delle Bollette, 13 / Trevi / +39 6 678 3495 / closed Sunday

Dining

GELATERIA SAN CRISPINO

There’s ice cream, and then there’s San

Crispino gelati. This traditional parlour

delivers divine homemade honey,

meringue, ginger and fig amongst

many, many others, and while you have

to run the gauntlet of the Trevi milling

masses to get to it, it sure is worth it

when you do. Dreamy and creamy!

Via della Panetteria, 42 / Trevi / +39 6 679 3924 / closed Tuesdays in

autumn and winterwww.ilgelatodisancrispino.it

Dining


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GALLERIA BORGHESE

Not only is the villa pretty, but the

superb, perfectly-sized museum inside

it contains gorgeous works by Titian,

Raphael, Caravaggio and Rubens, as

well as staggering Bernini and Canova

marble masterpieces that seem to be

alive. What’s more, tickets are limited

and timed, so there is no push or shove

and no over-crowding. A joy!

Villa Borghese / Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 / +39 6 328 10 / tickets must

be booked in advancewww.galleriaborghese.it

Activities

LUXE LOVES

THE SCAVI TOUR

Not for the fainthearted, nor those

suffering from claustrophobia, this

unique tour is severely restricted

in numbers, highly atmospheric

and takes you into the bowels of St.

Peter’s Basilica to visit the original

pagan necropolis underneath it and

purported last resting place of St.

Peter himself.

You can only book (in advance) via the Vatican Excavations Office by

email or fax – [email protected] / +39 6 69 873 017 / for full application details type in ‘excavations office scavi’ on

the search engine at www.vatican.va

LUCIA ODESCALCHI

If contemporary jewelry rings your bell,

then don’t dare miss these stunning

collections housed in Ms. Odescalchi’s

beautiful family palazzo. Pairing bronze

and iron and steel with diamonds and

precious stones, Lucia has set the

fashion world alight, and more than a

few hearts fluttering.

Piazza Santi Apostoli, 81 / +39 6 699 2556

www.luciaodescalchi.com

Shopping Shopping

MORIONDO & GARIGLIO

Who can resist sweets for the sweet?

No matter what time of year you visit

this confetteria you’re guaranteed

a seasonal delight of homemade

chocolates and candies, from marron

glacés in winter to sugar violets

in spring. Adorable and sinful,

in equal measure.

Via del Pie di Marmo, 21 / Pantheon / +39 6 699 0856 / closed Sunday

Activities


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LUXE LOVES

PORTRAIT SUITES

This 14-suite ‘residence’ oozes

Ferragamo attention to detail and

style, attentive staff, a calm palette

of limed woods and dove grey, plus a

fabulous rooftop deck that’s perfect for

sunset views of the city. All rooms have

kitchenettes, while #51 has a private

terrace and #52 is super-doop duplex.

Via Bocca di Leone, 23 / Spagna / +39 6 6938 0742 /

www.lungarnocollection.com/en

Hotel

LUXE LOVES

BABUINO 181

Fabulously situated, molto elegante

contemporary chambers wrapped

in a C.18th palazzo, with comp WiFi,

snappy service and quieter courtyard-

facing rooms for light sleepers, and all

but a Gucci loafer’s toss from Piazza

Popolo, Hotel de Russie and the lovely

shopping of Via Margutta and Via

Condotti. Bliss!

Via del Babuino, 181 / Popolo / +39 6 6992 1907

www.romeluxurysuites.com

Hotel


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TAXI DRIVERS

Notorious for adding extras,

watch out for the red dot scam

(see Blah blah)

GRAFFITI

Everywhere, particularly

Trastevere, such a shame

WAITERS

You could expire and be buried

before being served

‘CENTURIONS’ AT THE COLISEUM

These photo ops, are photo flops

OPENING TIMES

What do Roman shopkeepers do

on Sunday, Monday morning and

daily between 1-4pm?

LUXE LOATHES


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VATICAN VISIT

Nothing can be more drab than

standing in line outside the Vatican

Museums with literally thousands of

other grumpy people, so to cut your

queue time to only minutes, book a

personal guided tour with Context

Travel – ta-dah!

www.contexttravel.com

DRAB VS. FAB

PICNIC

Don’t waste time racing all around

town trying to put together hamper

ingredients, pop into Gina and pick

up a picnic ‘cestino’ packed with

summery goodies.

ginaroma.com

GETTING AROUND

Rome’s myriad of tiny streets can

mean getting stuck in noisy traffic

on baking summer days is a strong

possibility, consider instead zipping

around town on your very own scooter

or bicycle from Bici e baci.

bicibaci.com

WINE APPRECIATION

If you enjoy drinking delicious Italian

wine with every meal, you’ll enjoy it

all the more once you understand its

nuances. Arrange a fab wine tasting

masterclass at Vino Roma and amaze

your friends back home with your

newfound knowledge.

www.vinoroma.com

COOL OFF

Being all hot and bothered with

nowhere to cool off and relax is not

ideal, but rather than throw yourself

in the Trevi Fountain, all you have to

do is simply buy lunch at the Parco

dei Principi Hotel and you can treat

yourself to an afternoon poolside at

the hotel’s lovely oasis, one of the very

few swimming pools in the city.

parcodeiprincipi.com


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ROMANCE

Start your day viewing the charming

private family collection housed at

the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. This vast

palazzo is still home to the Pamphilj

family, and is a fascinating insight into

the art and daily life of the house. The

audio tour is narrated in English by Prince

Jonathan himself. Afterwards head

to Ciampini for a well-earned coffee,

or better yet, a large portion of their

scandalously good pistachio ice-cream,

before zipping to the Spanish Steps and

popping into Gina to pick up a picnic (see

Fab vs Drab). Now, off with you to the

sylvan grounds of the Villa Borghese, the

perfect park to eat your lunch alfresco.

Having booked your tickets in advance

you will now be perfectly placed to

saunter into your timed opening slot at

the sublime Galleria Borghese (see LUXE

Loves), home to some to the loveliest

treasures in the city, and with limited

numbers allowed in at any one time, there

are none of the heaving crowds of the

Vatican Museum. Well, you’ve certainly

earned a pamper, and the glorious,

limpid Wellness Zone spa at the Hotel de

Russie is the perfect place to relax in the

company of the city’s divas and divos who

can’t get enough of the Watsu and hydro-

relaxation. As the clock hits 5pm your

thoughts should be turning to Campari

time atop the pretty roof of the Raphael

Hotel for the inevitably lovely sunset

over the ravishing city skyline. Cocktails

here come with a handsome selection of

tidbits, but don’t fill up, you’ve only a few

steps to go outside the hotel to find the

gracefully romantic, tree-lined terrazza

of Santa Lucia (see LUXE Loves) where

a high likelihood of Cupidity is always

in the air. Saunter homewards now, but

stop for a nightcap if you can at Bar

della Pace – the streetside tables of this

eternal favorite line one of the city’s most

picturesque backstreets, drenched in

atmosphere and always lively.

LUXE ITINERARY


Prestige

STYLE

Well, you’ve certainly got a stylish day

ahead, but don’t skimp on the most

important meal of the day, instead make

a beeline to chicster café La Buvette

where they even offer delicious health

and low-cal breakfasts (mostly unheard of

in Roma). Suitably replete, can there be

any greater joy than shopping the nearby

streets Babuino, Margutta and legendary

Condotti? So many shopportunities; from

fashion staples Eleonora and TAD, glove

emporium Sermoneta, and home décor

at Pratesi, to labelista Marni and shoe

maestro Caovilla. It’s always important,

of course, to balance retail with culture,

so don’t miss Richard Meier’s stupendous

glass and travertine ‘temple’ that houses

the utterly beautiful Ara Pacis, or Altar

of Peace. It sits rather conveniently in the

same square as stylish, all day flop-spot

Gusto, equally great for coffee, lunch or

supper, and rightly famous for its jazzy

Sunday brunch buffet. Drop those heavy

shopping bags back at the hotel and off

with you velocemente to the fabulous

MAXXI. Zaha Hadid’s architectural tour

de force is alone worth a viz, but the

contemporary art makes it an afternoon

well spent and there’s also a natty café in

case you get a sudden attack of gallery-

itis. When the weather is fine there is

little more pleasant occupation in Rome

than escaping the milling streets to a

rooftop bar for alfresco sundowners

surrounded by the amber rapture of

ancient buildings, and the lounge bar of

I Sofa di Via Giulia atop the St. George

Hotel perfectly matches sophisticated

cocktails with stunning views. Hungry?

Ask yourself how are you feeling; chic,

urbane and in the mood for elegant

dining? Then make sleekster Baby your

choice with its poolside garden terrace.

Or, if something a little grittier, relaxed

and local is called for, hotfoot it to Monti

and the always popular, organic regional

cooking of Urbana 47. It just remains to

take nightcaps at the book-lined social

salon Salotto 42 (see LUXE Loves), and

that’s one stylish day in the bag!

LUXE ITINERARY


Prestige

Having a summer breakfast meeting?

Try to arrange it at the Hotel De Russie

so you can enjoy the alfresco perfection

of the 2 Michelin star Jardin de Russie,

with its pretty, clipped shrubs and roses.

Should you have forgotten the mandatory

sunglasses that no Italian would be seen

dead without, fret not, simply scoot

across the road from the hotel to Ottica

Spieza and get yourself suitably shaded

from their up to the moment range of

specs. There is little or no excuse for

being badly turned out in Rome with a

plethora of men’s and women’s outfitters,

but for serious men’s shirt tailoring and

excellent suits saunter down Condotti to

find Battistoni, and classically tasteful

men’s and womenswear at Brunello

Cucinelli. Now that you’re sartorially

sorted, you will need to think of grooming.

Rome’s ladies in the know all make

tracks to the head-turning Noi salon

where up-do’s and blowouts rule the day

from celebs to contessas. Gentlemen

meanwhile, should check into one-

stop guy spot Wonderfool. This groovy

groomer features a barber, spa, Turkish

bath, mini-gym, massages, facials, male-

nails and great Art of Shaving products

to buy. Lunch! When great value and a

great venue are called for, book ahead for

the 2-course set lunch at Open Colonna.

This soaring glass conservatory attracts

a very stylish, professional clientele and

is also a social hub at aperitivi hour.

Speaking of which, on the occasion that

you may prefer a quiet business drink

away from the eyes of all, the gloriously

old fashioned Bar Bistro Mascagni

scores top marks – hidden away in the

Grand Hotel Plaza, this step-back-in-time

capsule of brass and red velvet serves

up a very decent martini and peaceful

Proseccos, safely undiscovered by the

milling hordes. For dinner, Dal Bolognese

is packed with the Estab crowd, politicos,

WAGS and celebs, but for a venue where

the accent is more firmly on the food,

your clients will love Antico Arco –

great cuisine, swish crowd and

lovely surroundings.

BUSINESS

LUXE ITINERARY


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STYLE

ROMANCE

Galleria Doria PamphiljVia del Corso, 305 / Patheon /

+39 6 679 7323 / www.doriapamphilj.it

CiampiniPlazza Trinita dei Monti / Centro /

+39 6 678 5678 www.caffeciampini.com

Gina (see Fab vs Drab)

Villa Borghese Via Pinciana

Galleria Borghese (see LUXE Loves)

Wellness Zone Hotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9 /

Popolo / +39 6 3288 820 / www.hotelderussie.it

Raphael HotelLarge Febo, 2 / Piazza Navona /

00186 Rome / +39 6 682 831 / www.hotelraphael.it

Santa Lucia (see LUXE Loves)

Bar della Pace Via della Pace 3-7 / Navona /

+39 6 686 1216www.caffedellapace.it

THE ESSENTIALS

La BuvetteVia Vittoria, 47 / Spagna /

+39 6 679 0383www.labuvetteroma.it

Eleonora Via del Babuino, 97 / Spagna /

+39 6 6919 0554 / www.eleonoraboutique.it

TAD Via del Babuino, 155a / Spagna /

+39 6 3269 5122

Sermoneta Piazza di Spagna, 61 / Spagna /

+39 6 679 1960www.sermonetagloves.com

Pratesi Via Vittoria, 67a / Spagna /

+39 6 6819 0252 www.ue.pratesi.com

Marni Via Bocca di Leone 8 / Spagna /

+39 6 786 320

CaovillaVia Borgognona, 10 / Spagna /

+39 6 678 3879 / www.caovilla.com

Ara Pacis Lungotevere in Augusta / Corso /

+39 6 8205 9127www.arapacis.it

Gusto Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 / Centro /

+39 6 322 6273www.gusto.it

MAXXI Via Guido Reni, 6 / Flaminio /

+39 6 678 4350www.fondazionemaxxi.it

I Sofa di Via GiuliaVia Giulia, 62 / Pantheon /

+39 6 6866 1826 www.isofadiviagiulia.com

Baby (Closed but other restaurants

available: www.aldrovandi.com/en/48/restaurants-and-bars.aspx)

Urbana 47 Via Urbana, 47 / Monti /

+39 6 4788 406 www.urbana47.it

Salotto 42(see LUXE Loves)


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BUSINESS

Jardin de RussieHotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9 /

Popolo / +39 6 3288 8870 / www.hotelderussie.it

Ottica SpiezaVia del Babuino, 199 / Popolo /

+39 6 361 0593

BattistoniVia Condotti 60/61a / Tridente /

+39 6 697 6111 /www.battistoni.com

Brunello CucinelliVia Borgognona, 33 / Spagna /

+39 6 678 7680 www.brunellocucinelli.it

Noi Piazza del Popolo, 3 / Popolo /

+39 6 3600 6284 www.noisalon.com

WonderfoolVia dei Banchi Nuovi, 39 / Navona /

+39 6 6889 2315 www.wonderfool.it

Open ColonnaScalinata di via Milano, 9a / 00184

Roma / +39 6 4782 2641 / www.opencolonna.it

Bar Bistro MascagniGrand Hotel Plaza / Via del Corso, 126 /

Corso / +39 6 674 952 / www.grandhotelplaza.com

Grand Hotel PlazaVia del Corso, 126 / Corso /

+39 6 674 952 393 www.grandhotelplaza.com

Dal BolognesePiazza del Popolo, 1 / Popolo /

+39 6 361 1426

Antico ArcoPiazzale Aurelio, 7 / Janiculum /

+39 6 581 5274 www.anticoarco.it

THE ESSENTIALS


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