presentation ,broken stitch by mehadi hasan
TRANSCRIPT
MAIN TOPIC:BROKEN STITCH
BY
MR.ZAHIR UDDIN MD BABURQUALITY CONTROLLER(WOVEN)
VENUE :
WINDY APPARELS Ltd.BERON, ASHULIA
DEPZ ROAD, SAVARDHAKA-1341
DATED: 25/08/2016
“How To Reduce BROKEN STITCH”
DEFINATION OF BROKEN STITCH
Broken Stitching Is Often Caused By Rough Handling. If You See Stitching Is Missing Or Has Been Broken, Workers At Your Factory May Be Rushing To Complete An Order. The Supplier May Also Have Been Provided An Outdated Specification For Sewing. Stitch Issues Will Generally Be Considered A Major Defect For H&M.
TYPES OF BROKEN STITCHSTYLE - ULRIK JACKET
Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting
Broken Stitches - Abrasion
Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation Broken Stitch By Machine PARTS
BROKEN STITCHES - NEEDLE CUTTING Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar
tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure.
Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut. Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on
denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to lopper thread in the Seam.
Use needles with the correct needle point. Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are
occurring frequently.
BROKEN STITCHES - ABRASION Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand
blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line.
Minimizing broken Stitches due to Abrasion : Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is
occurring. Make sure stitches are balance properly. Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Lopper due to its lower seam profile
making it less susceptible to abrasion. Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.
BROKEN STITCHES BY CHEMICAL DEGRADATION
Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure.
Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation:
Use a higher performance Parma Core NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation.
It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.
To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
BROKEN STITCH BY M/C PARTS Is Not Used Being Properly Machine Small Parts
Minimizing broken stitches due to Machine parts:
Use Machine Washer . Use Springs at Bobbin. Use Correct Threading . Use Take Of Spring.(Tension spring)
OPERATOR &M/C PARTS MISSING TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH
Machine Washer Springs at BobbinCorrect Threading Take Of Spring
Handling NEEDLE Sharp edge NeedleFeed Dogs Hole
MACHINE WASHER
Don’t Use Machine washer
Use Machine Washer
JUKI Button Stitch M/CModel –LK1903A-SS
JUKI Button Stitch M/CModel –LK1903A-SS
SPRINGS AT BOBBIN
Use Springs At BobbinDon’t Use Springs At Bobbin
CORRECT THREADING
WRONG Threading Correct Threading
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
TAKE OF SPRING(TENSION SPRING)
Use Take Of Spring(tension Spring)
Don’t Use Take Of Spring(Tension Spring)
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
HANDLING Correct Way of Handling
Operator Handling problem
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
NEEDLE Operator Use Bent Needle Operator Don’t Use Bent Needle
TYPICAL Plain M/CModel DDL-N/A
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
SHARPEDGE NEEDLEOperator Use Sharp Edge NeedleOperator Don’t Use Sharp Edge
Needle
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
FEED DOGS HOLEFeed Dogs Hole Not Adjusted Good Setting Feed Dogs Hole
TYPICAL Two Needle M/CModel DDL-N/A
JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B
THE NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING
The Solution: This boils down to a single follow-up question, "Are you using the right needle?" Going up or down to the appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza. A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen, and synthetic suede. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9 needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge point? For reference, you can check a full size chart here.
THIS THREE-STEP CHECKLIST CAN EASILY SOLVE MOST MACHINE MISHAPS.
1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top-to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional monthly use, clean it every three months.
2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can
affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to make sure everything is in the right place.
3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned,
using the right size and type of needle is imperative. Additionally, you should use high-quality thread -- it will have a nice, smooth filament and not be "fuzzy" or uneven in thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct sunlight).
OUR MODEL LINE DHU%
PROJ
ECTI
ONBt
tm H
em U
... U
p-Do
wnSh
adin
gBr
oken
Stit
ch
Pock
et P
la...
NECK
LOO
SENE
EDLE
MAR
KOp
en s
titch
Plea
tNE
EDLE
CUT
0
128
4
7050
66
427
6583
34
4668
139
0
348
169
211
Defect Contri-bution
PROJ
ECTI
ONBt
tm H
em U
... U
p-Do
wnSh
adin
gBr
oken
Stit
ch
Pock
et P
la...
Oil S
pot
RAW
Stit
chOp
en s
titch
Plea
tFa
b De
fect
15
154
0
175
133151
0
149
213
123
3 0 3
139
67
1624
148107
0 0
Defect Contri-bution
Month-August Month-July
CORRECTIVE PREVENTIVE ACTION
Hourly Threading, Tension, & Needle Sharp Edge Check Report.
Daily Awareness About That Defect. Daily DHU Comparing. Root Cause Analysis & Corrective Action
Plan. Daily Top 3 Defect Board In Sewing Line. 7 Pcs System.
EVERY WEEK MEETING WITH ORGANIGATION TOP LEVEL,MID LEVEL&ROOT LEVEL MANAGEMENT FOR
DHU TOP 3 DEFECT . CORRECTION OF ALL H&M DEFECTS .
OUR GOAL
This means that they are saying that you shouldn’t give up so easily when something is hard. It reminds me that each time I try
something new it will get easier each time I do it. If I don’t get something right the first time I need to keep trying.
ExampleWhen I just started to surf I couldn’t get up on the board, I always
used to fall off the second I tried to get up. But now I can get up and paddle into the waves and go along the wave with out falling
off.
SUCCESS
Edison — holder of over 1,000 patents — had an insane work ethic. He was known to put in 72 hours at a time. So naturally, his definition of success is equally ambitious: "Success is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration."
INVENTOR THOMAS EDISON RECOGNIZED THAT SUCCESS IS A GRIND
PHILOSOPHICAL ENUNCIATION FOR WIN