Preparation : Part-I

We are a group, mostly consisting of senior citizens, from Kolkata, contemplating to visit Bhutan for past few months. We started our homework on Bhutan about 7/8 months back by scanning each and every threads/posts pertaining to Bhutan in Indiamike, notably the threads initiated by Natasha and Vinay. Besides, we have googled and had gone through whatever writeups available in web. We have also established contacts with a few actual travelers, who had recently traveled to Bhutan. They are mostly our fellow IMers and as usual they are ever willing to help with whatever resources they have. Having done preliminary homework, we planned for a 5 nights & 6 days trip with night stays at Thimphu (3 nights) and Paro (2 nights). Initially, we were 7 persons in the group. Later 2 more members joined in making it 9-members group. We planned to depart Kolkata on the night of 2nd November by Kanchan Kanya Express and to return back to Kolkata on 8th or 9th November. We chalked out our priority list, which comes as under:

1 Booking Rail Tickets Status: Done. Sealdah to Hasimara by Kanchan Kanya Exp.

2 Obtaining Bhutan Entry Permit Status: Process initiated at Kolkata Bhutan Consulate. Shall elaborate this point later in this post3 Hotel Booking at Thimpu Status: No formal booking has been done. But shortlisting of hotels had done. These shortlisted Hotels are : 1. Hotel Tandin; 2. Hotel T T; 3. Hotel Ghasel. Of these 3 hotels, we have several feedbacks from actual users in respect of first two hotels, but we are yet to get any feedback on the third Hotel i.e. Hotel Ghasel. In anyone can give us some feedback on this Hotel, it will be of great help.4 Hotel Booking at ParoStatus: Again, no formal booking has been done. But shortlisting of hotels had done. Shortlisted Hotels are: 1. Hotel Peljorling; & 2. Hotel Jigmelling. Both the Hotels have reasonably good reviews from the actual travelers.5 Transportation Status: As we are backpack travelers, we decided not to hire any exclusive vehicle for our trip. We intend to hire cab from Hashimara Stn to Phuentsolling and then from there we intend to avail Coaster Bus Service for Thimphu. However, if the train is delayed considerably, this plan may not work. We have not drawn any Plan-B for this eventuality. We are working on the assumption that the train will not be late more than an hour or so. As regards sightseeing, we will avail whatever transportation available, but thrust will be on economy/budget.

The above is a brief description of our pre-travel preparation. I would now like to narrate our experience on point No.2 above i.e. obtaining of Bhutan Entry Permit from the Bhutan Kolkata Consulate. We had visited the Consulate office and had submitted our applications for Permit. Incidentally, it may be mentioned here that from Kolkata, one can get Permit for Thimphu and Paro only.

In past it has been reported in Inidamike that1. Bhutan Entry Permit is now available from Kolkata itself (It is correct)2. Permit Application Form is downloadable from web (I could not get despite several efforts)3. It is not mandatory for all the visitors to be present at the Consulate while applying for the Permit. (True, one can sign on behalf of other members of the team)The Consulate office is located on Mall Road, near to Dum Dum Nager Bazar. Bus Stop is "Clive House", just 2 stops after Nager Bazar towards Airport. It is adjacent to Christ Church School. We carried original Voter ID Card, Photocopies and 1 copy of Passport sized Photographs of the each traveler along with us. When we reached there, we found the main gate is closed and besides the main door there is an embedded Sign Board which reads and looks like this. Please see at the bottom of this post.

On the right hand side of the above Sign Board, there is a small Gate, which looked like a closed door, but there is a calling bell switch, which, however, did not work! Anyhow, when we pushed the small door a bit, it opened up and a Security Guard emerged. He gave us Permit Forms and asked us to fill up. He offered us seat in the adjacent Room, which looks like Visitors Room. The main building is away and it seems that visitors are NOT allowed to go inside the Office. The so-called Visitors Room is very Spartan in look with school-like Table and Bench. A Notice displayed over there on the wall gives a few tips (advisory type) meant for travelers viz.1. Pre-requisite documents for Permit (We discussed this earlier);2. Not to carry 500 or 1000 INR Notes to Bhutan;3. Hire only Bhutan-registered Vehicles etc. etc.

While filling up the forms, an Officer from the Main Office came to us and exchanged a few pleasantries and also informed us that since our journey begins on 2nd November, the Permit will be made available on 25th October only. We reckoned we had no choice on this and naturally we nodded in acceptance. As I had told earlier, I could not get the Entry Permit Application Form for Indian citizens from the web contrary to the claim made by many. What I did was I got Visa Application Form downloaded instead from the Web, got it photocopied and filled in before we reach Consulate Office assuming that this Form might be similar in nature and would be acceptable to the authority. But, it is not to be. Our earlier filled-in forms were scrapped and we had to fill in new form afresh provided by the Consulate Office (Read Security Guard). Since I have gone through this ordeal I thought that if I can submit the Permit Application Form in this thread itself, it would come handy for future travelers. I reckon downloaded Form would be accepted. So, here goes the Form: Please see at the bottom.

We travelled far way to Bhutan, a land locked country at eastern end of the Himalayas and sharing border with our country India.

The easiest way to reach Bhutan is by flight, they have an airport at Paro. Druk Air is the only carrier.What we did was to reach Hashimara from Howrah by Kanchankanya Express that departs from Howrah daily at 8.30PM. Going this way is rather very easy because Phuntsholing is only 30min by road from Hashimara station.From Hashimara, if you already have the permit can straight go to Phuntsholing terminus from where you can catch a bus/cab to Thimphu.

Getting the Permit : People leaving in and around Kolkata can go to Bhutan house at 6 mal Road, Dum Dum. The place is near to Nagerbazar. The process is simple, go there fill up the form and submit it along with your voterid card, one photo. The permit will be given to you in 2 days time. Remember one thing, here you will get permit for only Thimphu and Paro. The office is closed on Saturday and Sunday. If you can get the permit from Kolkata then no need of giving one extra day in Hashimara.

Currency : You have to carry Rs.100 currency notes. Rs.500 may not be acceptable in Bhutan. Indian cards are not acceptable in Bhutan.

Phone : You have to have international roaming in Bhutan and it is very costly for all incoming/outgoing. I suggest you take a Bhutan sim card with you. What we did was to tell our travel agent do it for us (Jaigaon Tour & Travels just beside the Bhutan gate). I gave one photo and voteid zerox and the guy came up with a Tashi cell sim card. He took Rs.250 for it, and its amazing cheap to make calls, From Bhutan I called up India and it is Rs. 5 /min and local calls within Bhutan is probably Rs. 1 min. Local calls are very important because you have to call your cab driver arrange the trip, and also you may call up your hotel for any emergency.

Train : The best train on this route is Kanchankanya express, rather this is the only express train from Howrah (HWH) to reach to Hashimara (HSA). The normal timing of the train is from Howrah it will start at 8.30 PM and will reach HSA next day at 10.33 AM. After crossing NJP, the train will be late because there is no double line. Expect the train to be at least 30-45 min late, ours were 30 min late, but the journey is beautiful with tree gardens and forest on both side. From HAS station a shared cab will take Rs. 100-150 / head to Phuntsholing/Jaigaon. The journey is beautiful with tea gardens on both side of the road.

Cab to Thimphu : A shared cab to Thimphu takes Rs. 350-450/head. You can avail bus but the timings may not suit you, and it takes longer in bus though the price is much less. A cab (bigger ones like bolero) takes 5-5.30 hours to reach Thimphu. The road condition is good but at least 3-4 places the road widening work is going on so there will be lot of rough and dusty road in those areas. They give a break for 20min for snacks or lunch. But the best option is to have a lunch is Phuntsholing/Jaigaon. We had our lunch at a restaurant in Phuntsholing. Though not the best of the lot but still ok considering the journey ahead.

Reaching Thimphu : If you start from Phuntsholing at 1 pm you will reach Thimphu at 6.30 pm, the cab will drop you at your hotel. We stayed at hotel Tandin at the Norzin lam, it is best of the lot so far, good clean and big rooms with room heaters, service is too good and very quick, they have a restaurant and the prices are cheap too. The food is delicious and they have all types of Indian foods as well as Bhutanese dishes. If you want to extend your permit dont go on sat and Sunday these days in Thimphu you will find the permit office closed.

Thimphu Sightseeing, Dochula pass, Punakaha Dzong : What we did was simply told the cab driver that took us to Thimphu to arrange a sightseeing for us, he contacted a friend, and we had the driver waiting for us next morning. Thimphu sightseeing cannot be done sharing basis. We paid Rs. 1700 for Thimphu sightseeing and Dochula pass. Dochula pass is 1hr from Thimphu. All this can be completed in one day. We stared at 9 am and reached back to hotel by afternoon, we went to Dochula pass, then in Thimphu we saw- Memorial chorten, Tashichhoe Dzong, Simtokha Dzon, Changangkha Lhakhang, Thimphu view point or BB Tower. Evening we walked down to coronation park (beautiful park to stroll) and visited the stadium and archery centre, these evening places were close to our hotel so we walked down to it. To paro : Paro is only 1hr 30 min from Thimphu and by cab it takes Rs.150/head. We stayed in hotel Jigmeling, nice hotel just beside the place from where local sightseeing cabs are available. Food options are not as great that we got at Thimphu, but rooms are nice with room heaters and plenty of hot water.Paro sightseeing : Paro sightseeing actually takes 3 complete days. One full day takes the trekking to the Tigers nest or the Takshang Monastery, its a symbol of Bhutan. Climbing top takes 3 hrs and climbing down takes 2 hours, but I can guarantee in the end you will like it. The monastery is located at the top of a mountain and you can walk or take help of mules to climb top, but the mules will not take you all the way at the top, it will take you only till a certain distance from there you have to walk. We choose to walk our way to the top, we started at around 9.30 in the morning and came down at 2.30 pm. The best time to visit the place is our timing, dont go too late. There is a cafeteria where we had our lunch while coming down. The food is good, and costs Rs. 370/head. Few things to keep in mind while going, keep water and biscuits with you, walking sticks are of great help.Paro sightseeing can be done in one day, also cover chelela pass. Chelela pass is 1hr 30 min from Paro and it is the highest road in Thimphu (13000ft). The whole sightseeing took us one whole day and costs Rs.1700.We visited Paro dzong and National museum the day we went to Paro. Paro dzong and National museum can be visited by walking as it was close to our hotel and moreover we choose to walk because paro was simply beautiful, but u can cover all this by cab. Entry to Paro dzong is restricted for Indians without guide. But foreigners can go inside as they have guide with them. But we did managed to go inside. Its very beautiful inside.Return : Paro to Phuntsholing takes about 5 hrs. And we took the return train from HSA at 5.22 pm. The cab took us Rs.2000 reserved. There is bus available but it is early in the morning, and shared cab is virtually not available.

Bhutanese people are very nice and population being low you will find empty and clean streets. There are travel agents in India who will tell different stories but the experience was nice. It was quite cold in March 2011, The scenic beauty is very different from other places, this is much different than Sikkim and Himachal. Last edited by somak_sanyal; Mar 23rd, 2011 at 16:05