praktikum reisejournalismus lyon curso/ctr: it's better than paris

7/27/2019 Praktikum Reisejournalismus Lyon Curso/CTR: It's Better Than Paris

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LYONits better than

P A R I S


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Lyon may be called Frances Second City,yet in reality it trumps its capital counterpartin nearly every category. Paris has theSeine? Thats cute. Lyon offers a choiceof rivers, the Rhne and Sane. WhereasParisians often meet travellers with a scowlof resentment, the Lyonnais are keen toshare a smile and a story. A night out onthe town in Paris will have you scratchingyour head the next morning, wonderingwhere all of your euros went. Nightlife inLyon, on the other hand, will leave you withat least enough money to pay for a slice ofpizza on your stumble home. Paris may becalled The City of Love, but Lyon is the citywhere you will actually feel the love.

INTRODUCTION

THEATRES, TUNNELS AND TINY THINGSCLASSIC LYON

Contrasts - Meet the ConuenceLes Traboules - A Trip Through TimeOnly LugdunumLyon: The Directors Cut

Hidden SecretsWalled Up

Contents

BOOKS, BOBOS AND BARBER SHOPSUNUSUAL LYON

Live Like a LyonnaisTokens From Your TravelsThe Hipster Trail

STALLS, SIESTAS AND SPEEDOSDAY TIME LEISURE

This Little Piggy Went To Market

All that Glitters is GoldLyon la ModeTesting the Water

BANDS, BOATS AND BOUCHONSNIGHT TIME LEISURE

A Taste of LyonAllez, Allez LOLA-Live in LyonEat, Drink and be MerryCocktails, Bars and BargesGetting Over Your Hangover

fTES, FACTS AND FRENCHMENLEARN ABOUT LYON

Lyon Will Make You SmileUnderstand Les LyonnaisInternational Events

BEDS, BICYCLES AND BILLETSPRACTICAL INFORMATION

Getting Around the City

VlovAll Travellers Need Their Beauty Sleep

As this guide will prove, there are manyreasons why Lyon should be top of yourtravel bucket l ist. Take a wander through thepages and you will discover a whole newtake on the city. From history to hangovercures, tourist gems to hipster trends andFranais to Lyonnais, youll nd everythingyou need right here. Book your ight andpack your bags the true French capitalawaits.

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download E-Book: http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/lyon-its-better-than-paris/1404654


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THEATRES, TUNNELS AND TINY THINGCLASSIC L


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What to do with a derelict district in

the heart of a historical city? Go on awalking tour through the two differentsides of Lyon and nd out.

A no mans land on the tip of thepeninsula between the Sane andRhne rivers with nothing butfactories and the harbour - thatswhat Conuence used to be just a fewyears ago. Now, times are changing:witness the development of a wholenew district with life, shopping andculture.

CONTRASTS - Meet the Conuence

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A trip from old to new Lyon will makeyou feel like entering another world.Start in the historical core between Placedes Terreaux and Place Bellecour in asoutherly direction, and relish the viewover the historical places and buildingswhilst walking along the pedestrianstreets. Now and then, have a break andsit outside one of the numerous cafs,bars or restaurants tucked away withinthe small lanes: just watch the worldgo by and enjoy the sound of French-

speakers surrounding you. From typicalLyon specialities, such as crpes andice cream, to international cuisine, youwill surely nd the right meal for you. Inparticular, dont miss a visit to Place desJacobinswith its imposing fountain. Thisis Lyon in its purest form.

Go further southwards and you willcontinue to discover the historical andcultural centre of Lyon, with its small andoriginal shops and bars and its hugevariety of museums, theatres and oldchurches. A look inside the mosaic-lined

chapels will leave you in awe.

If you suddenly face a building that lookslike an enormous spaceship behind PlaceCarnot, you have arrived at the station ofPerrache, that stands above the freewayseparating Conuence from the rest ofLyon.

In case you went along the water and justfound the freeway: dont worry, you havethe same chance to reach Conuence aseveryone else. Just search for a tunnelleading to the other side, or as highly

recommended, avoid it and try to ndthe metro station of Perrache. Seeingthese tunnels might be an experience,but struggling through the metro stationis an adventure in itself, just without thetypical, odious human stench foundinside tunnels.

After you have nally made your waythrough the labyrinth of this building,

the hardest part is over; jusgoing straight. You know that about to enter Conuence whenconstruction sites appear on thand side (southeast) and the lanstarts to change into a rotten, nefactory area. Thats how it used like before the construction work sSurely still a good setting for a movie.

In extreme contrast, you fac

giant, hyper-modern residentiato the right (northwest) with ashopping mall right in the centreneighbourhood. Including 106 shrestaurants, a cinema, parking sp1500 cars, a hotel and even a cwall, it represents a whole new Conuence. In addition, strolling tthe newly built quarter aroundNautiqueis worth the walk, even it still gives you a feeling of steriarticiality.Conuence has provided living

for people of every age andbackground since 2008, as studensingle parents live next door to yand high-achievers, meaning thface-lift represents just another exof the diversity of Lyon.

More information can be found Conuence museum - another fuspaceship building, which is howecompleted yet. According to theit should be nished in 2014; foinformation see the web page atlyon-conuence.fr.

Conuence Shopping Ce

112, Cours Charlem

Shops open daily 10.00 - Restaurants open 10.00 -

(Monday - Thursday and SuRestaurants open 10.00 -

(Friday and SatuMetro A - PerTram T1 - Per

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With a smile, our tour guideoffers a welcome escape fromthe sweltering urban scrum. Asan elaborately decorated dooropens off the Rue St Jean, we areintroduced to a city within thecity les traboules, a network ofaround 300 passageways andcourtyards that run through thecity.

With a working knowledge ofthis hidden network, essentialfor any vrai Lyonnais, its possibleto traverse both Vieux Lyon andCroix-Rousse without setting

Les Traboules - a trip through time

foot on a main road. But not onlyis this network very useful, it isalso endlessly interesting. Thesewalkways offer glimpses at a hiddenLyon. You may nd a tattoo artistworking to the music of AC/DC,or dodge a band of rollerbladingkids. These glimpses, brief as theymay be, prompt wonder at thelives behind the walls.

More intriguing still is thetraboules rich history. Some of theearliest date back as far as the 4thcentury, but they are best knownfor their role in the silk trade the

industry that made the citys name.Les canuts silk weavers usedthe traboules of Croix-Rousse totransport their wares to market.By the 1830s, the area became ahotbed of revolutionary activity,as disaffected workers marchedthrough the traboules and brieytook control of the city.

In the 20th century, the traboulesagain became a focal point forconict. Their capacity for stealthwas put to good use during theSecond World War, as the FrenchResistance used the passageways

to hide from the Gestapo. This was particularlyuseful in the early days of occupation, whenonly the Lyonnais knew of their existence.

If you only have time for one, make sure tovisit La Traboule de la Tour Rose. One of Lyonsmost famous traboules, it is known for its warmterracotta interior. Or if you have a little moretime, cross over to Rue St Jean in the cityslongest pathway, known as la longue traboule.Residents of the apartments surrounding thetraboules have agreed to keep them open to

the public between the hours of 8am and 7pmbut some will nevertheless be closed. Your bestbet is therefore to arrive as early as possible,but make sure to keep noise to a minimum the residents can be a little wary of tourists.

La Traboule de la Tour Rose

22, Rue du BufMetro D - Vieux Lyon

La Longue Traboule

54, Rue St JeanMetro D - Vieux Lyon

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Did you know Lyon was once a capital city? Andnot just of the area now called France, but of thewhole region of Gaul?

Well, way back in 43BC the Roman General, LuciusMunatius Plancus, was tasked with foundinga colonia here by the Senate. The spot wasconsidered important because of the two majorrivers it overlooked, but it was really more of aratication exercise since people from nearbyVienne (known as Vienna) had already started tosettle here. Although the towns ofcial name wasColonia Copia Felix Munatia, after its founder, theinhabitants gave it the much catchier name ofLugdunum, after Lug, the Celtic God of Light. It is a

Only Lugdunum

native connection that has been maintained to thisday through Lyons reputation as the city of lights.Despite these Celtic remnants, however, ancientLugdunum aptly fullled its role as the centralhub (de facto) of Roman activity in the region.It hosted the annual Council of the Three Gauls,rivalled Rome itself in commerce and was proudto be distinguished as the birthplace of two highlysuccessful Emperors (Claudius and Caracalla).Although much of the Roman remains are now lostbeneath new buildings, the echoes of Lugdunumcan still be found in Lyon if you know where to look.Simply follow this easy Roman guide to ensure thatyou dont miss out.

The Gier Aqueduct

Start on the Fouvire hill above St Just with the remainsof one of Lugdunums four aqueducts. Once 85km,it is the longest on record. The Rue Roger Radissonis a good spot. Here sections of the aqueduct towermajestically on the right whilst other parts have beenincorporated into later structures on the left. If youfancy a trek out of Lyon, however, a reconstructedsegment is visible on the Route de Pins.

Gier Aque

Rue Roger RadFuniculaire - S

Roman Baths

Back down from Fouvire, on Rue des Farges, youllnd one of Lugdunums public baths. Large apartmentbuildings completely hide the ruins from the road,but pass under their open orange arches and thestonework bursts out of the hillside before you. Itsdifcult to identify any recognisable features withoutarchaeological training, but the semi-secrecy of thesite makes it worth the diversion.

ROMAN BARue des F

Funiculaire - Mi

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Theatre and Odeon

Further on up from the baths lies the jewel of Lyons Roman crown, the magnicent Theatre and Complex. Located at the very heart of the ancient city, this was where citizens from all walks of lifecome to watch plays, music and poetry. The theatre could then seat 10,000 spectators, whilst the Odeon had a capacity of 3,000. The ruins are enclosed by iron railings, but it is free to enter andevery day. The plaques placed periodically throughout the site explain in French and English the of each construction, but beware, there is a lot more information en franais. You will also see hspace where the Roman Forum (market square) once was, although during Lyons annual music fLes Nuits de Fouvire, this will be blocked off.

Theatre and Od

Rue des FFuniculaire - Mi

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Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls

Now travel right across the city to the Jardin des Plantesin the Croix-Rousse district to discover LugdAmphitheatre. Although these remains are far smaller than the ruins in Fourvire, the excavation isprovocative to the imagination. As a plaque outside will tell you, it was here in 177AD that numChristian martyrs were tortured and killed, including, most famously, Saint Blandine. It is now half under the road and the whole area is fenced off so that you cant go in, but it is worth a glance for a

hard Roman fans. Just imagine the clash of swords and roar of lions and you will easily bring the spto life.

Gallo-Roman Museum

On the same site, built into the hillside, is the world-renowned Gallo-Roman Museum. An archicuriosity in itself built by Bernard H. Zehrfuss out of Guggenheim-esque sculpted concrete its like windows give panoramic views over the Theatre and Odeon ruins. The layout is clearly dividedifferent areas of Roman life in Lugdunum (and elsewhere in the Rhne area) and there is a handy

audio tour with amusing scenes to guide you around. Like the Theatre ruins, there is more informaFrench, but the signboards throughout consistently offer something in both languages. There are ptoo many stone epitaphs, but the museum also hosts some star attractions (like complete roommosaics) to break the monotony. It is open daily between 10am and 6pm, except for Mondays andpublic holidays. Entry is 7 (4 concessions), but completely free on Thursdays.

Gallo-Roman Mus

6, Rue de lAntiqFuniculaire - Mi

Ampitheatre of the Three G

Jardin des PMetro C - Croix P

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