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TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PraguePrague& the Czech Republic& the Czech Republic
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Neil Wilson Mark Baker
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Prague ......... 4
Prague’s Top 10 ............... 6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know .................14
Top Itineraries ................16
If You Like... .................... 18
Month by Month ............20
With Kids ........................23
Like a Local .................... 25
For Free .......................... 27
Prague by Bike ...............28
Prague Tours .................29
Eating ........................... 31Drinking & Nightlife ...36Entertainment ............ 40Shopping ..................... 43Architecture ............... 46
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Prague 267
Survival Guide 295
Prague Maps 325
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Prague 56
Transport .................... 296
Directory A–Z .............. 301
Language .................... 308
Index ............................. 316
Prague & the Czech Republic Today ............268
History ..........................270
Czech Life.................... 280
The Arts in Prague & the Czech Republic .....283
Prague on Page & Screen .......................289
A Nation of Beer Lovers ...........................292
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ..........................58Prague Castle & Hradčany........................60
Malá Strana .................... 77
Staré Město ....................91
Nové Město ...................116
Vinohrady & Vršovice . 132
Žižkov & Karlín ............. 142
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice ...................... 149
Smíchov & Vyšehrad .. 164
Day Trips from Prague ........................ 174
Sleeping .....................185
Best of Bohemia ....... 197
Best of Moravia ........ 236
CH
RISTO
PH
ER
GR
OE
NH
OU
T / GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©C
HR
ISTOP
HE
R G
RO
EN
HO
UT / G
ET
TY IM
AG
ES ©
WITO
LD S
KR
YP
CZ
AK
/ GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
(left) St Vitus Cathedral (p69)
(above) Astronomical Clock (p98)
(right) Beer – part of Prague’s culture (p36)
Prague Castle& Hradčany
Holešovice,Bubeneč & Dejvice
Žižkov &Karlín
NovéMěsto
MaláStrana
Smíchov & Vyšehrad
Vinohrady & Vršovice
p91
p77
p164
p60 StaréMěsto
p116
p149
p142
p132
CH
RISTO
PH
ER
GR
OE
NH
OU
T / LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Prague Castle & Hradčany . . . . . . . . . . .60Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Malá Strana . . . . . . . . . 77Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90
Staré Město . . . . . . . . . 91Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 110Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 112Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Nové Město . . . . . . . . 116Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 128Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 129Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
Vinohrady & Vršovice . . . . . . . . . . . 132Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 137Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 140Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Žižkov & Karlín . . . . . 142Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 147Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 148
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice . . . . . . . . . . 149Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 158Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 161Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 163
Smíchov & Vyšehrad . . . . . . . . . . 164Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 171Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 172Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Day Trips from Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Karlštejn Castle . . . . . . . . . 175Konopištĕ Chateau . . . . . . 177Kutná Hora . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Mělník . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Terezín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Best of Bohemia . . . . 197České Budějovice . . . . . . . . 198Český Krumlov . . . . . . . . . 204Třeboň . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209Tábor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Plzeň . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Karlovy Vary . . . . . . . . . . . .222Mariánské Lázně . . . . . . . .229
Best of Moravia . . . . .236Brno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237Telč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245Třebíč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248Mikulov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249Valtice-Lednice . . . . . . . . .253Znojmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .255Olomouc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257Kroměříž . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Explore Prague & the Czech Republic
56
Prague Castle ....................62St Vitus Cathedral .............69Strahov Monastery ........... 71Loreta .................................73Charles Bridge...................79Prague Jewish Museum ...93Municipal House .............. 96Old Town Hall .....................97Astronomical Clock ......... 98Museum of Decorative Arts ................ 99Wenceslas Square ...........118National Museum ............119National Monument .......144Veletržní Palác ..................151Vyšehrad Cemetery .......166Vyšehrad Citadel ............. 167
TOP SIGHTS PRAGUE’S
57
325
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
Prague Maps
326
1 1
1 1
1 1
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
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1
Vltava River
Veslařskýostrov
Vltava River
Kinskéhozahrada
Emperor's Island(Císařský ostrov)
Stromovka
Letenskésady
OlšanyCemetery(Olšanskéhřbitovy)
JewishCemetery(Židovskéhřbitovy)
ŽIŽKOV
LETNÁ
VINOHRADY
JOSEFOVNOVÉ
MĚSTO
HOLEŠOVICE
VRŠOVICE
RADLICE
LIBEÑ
STRAHOV
DEJVICE
NUSLE
KARLÍN
TYRŠŮVVRCH
VRŠOVICE
NABOHDALCI
SMÍCHOV
NOVÉMĚSTO
TROJA
PRAŽČKANOVÝSVÊT
BUBENEČ
VYŠEHRAD
MALÁSTRANA
STARÉMĚSTO
HRADČANY
PODOLÍ
PANKRÁCMICHLE
SPOŘILOVHLUBOČEPY
ZLÍCHOV
Ð"11 Ð"10
Ð"9
Ð"4
Ð"5
Ð"3
Ð"2
Ð"1
Ð"7Ð"6
Ð"8
0 2 km0 1 miles#e
MAP INDEX 1 Malá Strana (p328)
2 Hradčany (p330)
3 Staré Mĕsto (p332)
4 North Nové Mĕsto (p336)
5 South Nové Mĕsto (p338)
6 Vyšehrad (p341)
7 Smíchov (p342)
8 Vinohrady & Vršovice (p344)
9 Žižkov & Karlín (p346)
10 Holešovice (p348)
11 Bubeneč & Dejvice (p350)
327
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11 Palace Gardens Beneath Prague æ Sights (p74) Castle ........................................................G3 1 All Saints' Chapel........................................ F3 12 Plečnik Hall .................................................D3 2 Ball-Game House........................................E2 13 Powder Tower............................................. E3 3 Basilica of St George.................................. F3 14 Prague Castle Picture Gallery...................D3 4 Bílek Villa...................................................... H1 15 Riding School..............................................D2 5 Church of the Assumption of 16 Schwarzenberg Palace..............................D4 Our Lady....................................................B5 17 St Vitus Treasury ....................................... E3
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mov
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18 Šternberg Palace ........................................D3 27 Pivnice U Černého Vola .............................B4 19 Strahov Library ...........................................A5 28 U Zavěšenýho Kafe ....................................D4 20 Strahov Picture Gallery..............................B5 21 Summer Palace........................................... G1 þ Shopping (p76)
29 Antique Music Instruments ...................... A5 ú Eating (p74) Icons Gallery ..................................... (see 29) 22 Lobkowicz Palace Café..............................G2 23 Malý Buddha................................................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p188) 24 U Zlaté Hrušky.............................................C3 30 Domus Henrici ............................................C4 25 Villa Richter................................................. H2 31 Hotel Monastery......................................... B5
32 Romantik Hotel U Raka ............................. B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p76) 26 Klášterní pivovar Strahov..........................A5
HRADČANY
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Na Můst
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Na příkopě
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ká
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á
Perlová
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tnéř
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KarolínySvětlé
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lém
ská
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Kar
lova
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Rytíř
ská
Pánská pasáž
Myslbek p asáž
Křížovnická
Na Perštýně
Tram 3, 9, 14
, 24, 5
1, 52, 5
4, 55, 5
6, 58
Tram 17, 18, 53
VyšehradskáTr
am 6
, 9, 1
8, 2
1, 22
, 53,
57, 5
8, 59
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3439
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119
118
114
121
116120
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7
Astr
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65 7
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STA
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32
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93)
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16
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E4
46
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D5
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......
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C3
C
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......
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E4
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Am
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63
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D4
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A6
67
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STAR
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E5
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G2
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E6
106
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G4
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F4
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1
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5
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5)
92
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......
......
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......
......
......
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......
......
.B4
112
Pre
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......
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4
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40
)
93 B
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13 W
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......
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......
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......
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see
14)
94
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......
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......
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......
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78 F
OK
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......
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95
Gra
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......
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F3 ÿ
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189)
79 I
mag
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......
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......
......
......
......
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.....
D4
96
Hav
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
..D6
114
Gra
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......
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D5
80
Jazz
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Sta
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......
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.....
D6
97
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3 1
15 H
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......
......
......
......
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.F3
81
Nat
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3 1
16 H
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7
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......
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C4
99
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1
17 O
ld P
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......
......
......
......
......
......
.....F
3
Pra
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Spr
ing
Box
Off
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......
......
......
......
.....(
see
40)
100
Le P
atio
Life
styl
e...
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
..D3
118
Per
la H
otel
......
......
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......
......
......
......
......
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7
82 R
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......
.F2
101
Lee
da...
......
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......
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......
......
......
......
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...B
8 1
19 R
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......
......
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......
......
......
......
....B
8
83 S
met
ana
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l....
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
G4
102
Man
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
D6
120
Sav
ic H
otel
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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6 8
4 Ta
Fan
tast
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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SMÍCHOVæ Sights (p169) 14 Káva Káva Káva ..........................................C3 Brownnosers (David Černý 15 Kavárna Jarda Mayer................................. C3 Sculpture)..........................................(see 1) 16 Lokal Blok....................................................C3 1 Futura Gallery..............................................A3 17 Wash Café ................................................... D5
ú Eating (p169) ý Entertainment (p172) 2 Artisan.......................................................... C1 18 JazzDock ......................................................D1 3 Babička Restaurace ...................................B3 19 Švandovo Divadlo Na Smíchově ...............C1 4 Na Verandách..............................................C4 5 Pizzeria Corleone........................................C3 þ Shopping (p173) 6 U Bílého lva ..................................................C3 Mapis...................................................(see 19) 7 U Míkuláše Dačíckého................................C2 20 Nový Smíchov.............................................C3 8 Zlatý klas......................................................B3
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æ Top Sights (p144) 7 New Jewish Cemetery...............................G5 National Monument....................................C2 8 Olšany Cemetery.........................................F5
9 TV Tower .....................................................C4 æ Sights (p146) 1 Army Museum.............................................B2 ú Eating (p146) 2 Chapel of St Roch .......................................E4 10 Café Pavlač..................................................C3 3 Jan Palach's grave...................................... F5 11 Hanil .............................................................B4 4 Jan Žižka statue..........................................C2 12 Kuře V Hodinkách....................................... C3 5 Kafka's grave...............................................H5 13 Mailsi ............................................................C4 6 Karlín Studios.............................................. C1 14 Manni ........................................................... A3 Miminka (David Černý Sculpture).... (see 9) Restaurace Akropolis ...................... (see 24)
ŽIŽK
OV &
KAR
LÍN
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Olšany Cemetery(Olšanskéhřbitovy)
New Jewish Cemetery(Nový židovské hřbitov)
Jana Želivského
Koněvova
Vinohradská
Koněvova
Pitterova
Jeseniova
Izraelská
Biskupcova
U Nákladového Nádraží
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Dom
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Tram 1, 9, 16, 58
Tram 11, 19, 26, 51
Tram 1, 10, 19, 55
Tram 5, 58
Tram 5, 10, 11, 16, 51, 58
Tram 10, 16, 19, 26, 58
Tram 9, 10, 16, 19, 55, 58
Tram 9, 26, 55
FloraŽelivského
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û Drinking & Nightlife (p147) ý Entertainment (p148) 15 Bukowski's...................................................C4 23 Kino Aero.....................................................G2 16 Bunkr Parukářka.........................................D3 24 Palác Akropolis...........................................C4 17 Parukářka.....................................................D3 18 Pivovarský Klub........................................... A1 þ Shopping (p141) 19 Sedm Vlků....................................................B4 25 Atrium Flóra ................................................ E5 20 U Slovanské Lípy.........................................D2 21 U Vystřeleného oka ....................................C3 ÿ Sleeping (p193) 22 XT3................................................................D3 26 Hostel Elf ..................................................... B3
27 Hotel Alwyn ..................................................B1 28 Hotel Theatrino...........................................C4
ŽIŽKOV & KARLÍN
348
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BUBENEČ & DEJVICE
Neil Wilson Co-ordinating Author, Prague Castle & Hradčany, Malá Strana, Staré Město, Nové Město, Žižkov & Karlín Neil fi rst succumbed to the pleasures of Prague back in 1995, beguiled, like everyone else, by its ethereal beauty, but also drawn to the darker side of its hidden history. He has returned regularly to enjoy the world’s fi nest beers, the city’s quirky sense of humour, and the chance to track down yet another obscure monument, having worked on seven consecutive edi-
tions of Lonely Planet’s Prague guide. A full-time freelance writer since 1988, Neil has travelled in fi ve continents and written more than 50 travel and walking guides for various publishers; he is based in Edinburgh, Scotland. For more information see www.neil-wilson.com. Neil also wrote the Planning and Day Trips chapters and half of the Sleeping chapter.
Mark Baker Vinohrady & Vršovice, Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice, Smíchov & Vyšehrad Mark fi rst visited Prague in the 1980s as a journalist for the Econo-mist Group. Those were the dark days of the dying communist regime, yet even then he was hooked by the city’s beauty, mysticism and roast pork. He moved to Prague permanently in the early ’90s. He was a co-founder-owner of the Globe Bookstore & Coff eehouse and journalist for Radio Free Europe/Radio
Liberty. Now he works as a freelance travel writer. In addition to this book, Mark is co-author of the Lonely Planet guides to Romania and Poland. Mark also wrote the Architecture, Best of Bohe-mia and Best of Moravia chapters, the Understand and Survival chapters, and half of the Sleeping chapter.
Read more about Neil at:lonelyplanet.com/members/neilwilson
Read more about Mark at:lonelyplanet.com/members/markbaker
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – November 2012ISBN 978 1 74220 139 9© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day Two Staré Město (p 91 )
M Start the day in the Old Town Square; after watching the Astro-
nomical Clock do its thing, climb to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower for a great view of the square. Head along Celetná to the Municipal House and have a coff ee while you admire the art-nouveau decor. Buy a ticket for a concert; if you have time before lunch, take a guided tour.
Staré Město (p 91 )
R Dedicate the afternoon to visiting the half-dozen monuments that comprise
the Prague Jewish Museum; if you don’t have the time or energy for all of them, con-centrate on the Old-New Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Spanish Synagogue.
Staré Město (p 91 )
N Attend a concert in the Municipal House’s Smetana Hall or the Kle-
mentinum’s Chapel of Mirrors, or spend a night at the opera at the Estates Theatre; afterwards, explore Old Town cocktail joints such as Hemingway Bar and Čili Bar.
Lunch Try Lokál (p 109 ) for an authen-tically Czech lunch. And great beer.
Dinner Vino di Vino (p 109 ) is good for Italian food and wine.
Day One Prague Castle & Hradčany (p 60 )
M Take a wander through Prague Castle’s courtyards before the main
sights open, then spend the morning visiting St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace and the Lobkowicz Palace; try and time things to catch the changing of the guard at noon.
Malá Strana (p 77 )
R Descend from the castle to Malá Strana along Nerudova street, and
stop to admire the baroque beauty of St Nicholas Church. From here, head to the Wallenstein Garden for some peace and quiet, then exit on the far side and follow the backstreets south to Kampa. If it’s sunny, hang out in the park, and grab a drink at Mlýnská Kavárna, or pay a visit to the Kampa Museum. As day fades, stroll across Charles Bridge in the evening light.
Malá Strana (p 77 )
N Malá Strana is full of buzzy bars – U Malého Glena is a classic Prague bar
and jazz club, with live music every night.
Lunch Lobkowicz Palace Café (p 74 ) serves good food with a view.
Dinner Lichfi eld (p 87 ) is a sophisti-cated place for a special dinner.
Top Itineraries
16
Day Four Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice (p 149 )
M Time to escape the city for a while: take a boat trip to the rural suburb
of Troja (or hire a bike and ride there) and visit Prague Zoo and Troja Chateau. Walk back into the city centre through Stromovka park (the reverse of our walk-ing tour on p 155 ).
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice (p 149 )
R You could spend an entire after-noon admiring modern art in the
Veletržní Palác, but if the outdoor bug has bitten keep walking (or take a tram) to Letná Gardens for some afternoon drink-ing at Letná Beer Garden, the city’s premier open-air chill-out spot.
Žižkov & Karlín (p 142 )
N Take the metro across town to Jiřího z Poděbrad station, and go up the
TV Tower for a night-time city panorama (open till 10pm). From here, the legendary bars of Žižkov await – Bukowski’s cocktail dive is just two blocks downhill.
Lunch Enjoy a picnic lunch in leafy Stromovka park (p 153 ).
Dinner Sasazu (p 154 ) captures the trendy vibe of this district.
Day Three Nové Město (p 116 )
M Explore the passages and arcades around Wenceslas Square by fol-
lowing our walking tour (p 126 ), and (as time and inclination allows) take in the historical and artistic treasures of the National Museum, the Prague City Museum and the Mucha Museum.
Smíchov & Vyšehrad (p 164 )
R In the afternoon, take a metro ride out to Vyšehrad and explore
Prague’s other castle, the Vyšehrad Cita-del, with its gorgeous views along the Vltava River. Don’t miss the impressive tombs of composers Dvořák and Smetana and other famous Czechs in the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Walk back to the city centre along the embankment.
Nové Město (p 116 )
N The New Town is home to the city’s most prestigious classical-music
venues – try to catch a performance at the National Theatre (ballet), the Prague State Opera or the Dvořák Museum (concerts of Dvořák’s music).
Lunch Le Patio (p 127 ) is a favourite local lunch spot.
Dinner Head to Sansho (p 127 ) for a memorable meal (book in advance).
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
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