poster[1]
DESCRIPTION
200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 0 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 m/z 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 m/z Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm) OH OH 100 Quercetin OH 100 100 OH 100 100 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 O O 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 OH OH OH OH 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 O O O O 0 0 0 0 0 OH OH OHTRANSCRIPT
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IDENTIFICATION OF COLOURING MATTERS IN TEXTILES FROM THE MONASTERY OF SIMONOS PETRA (MOUNT ATHOS)
Ioannis Karapanagiotis1*, Christos Karydis2
*[email protected] Foundation, Art Diagnosis Centre, Ormylia, Chalkidiki 63071, Greece
2Higher Ecclesiastical Academy of Athens, Chrysallidos 38 & Themistokleous, 14561 Athens, Greece
A. Introduction
Mount Athos has been an Orthodox spiritual centre since 1054 and has enjoyed an autonomous status since Byzantine times. Today, the “Holy Mountain” is still a major centre of the Christian religion with over 20 large, occupied and active monasteries. Peerless artworks of inestimable religious, spiritual and historical importance have been guarded by the monasteries for several centuries. Among them, important textiles can be found which have been barely studied [1].
A multi-disciplinary approach will be employed within the activities of the Byz-tex-Athos project (9/2008-9/2010), supported by the Getty Foundation, to study in detail thirty textile works from the Monastery of Simonos Petra (IMSP). The project is composed of the following phases: (i) clarification of the dyeing technology; (ii) stylistic and historic investigation; (iii) documentation and (iv) conservation of the historical objects. Preliminary results are described in this study, including an investigation on the degradation of dyes occurred because of light ageing.
B.1. HPLC results
B. Accelerated ageing experiments
Wool and silk fibres were dyed with natural colouring materials such as cochineal (Dactylopius coccusCosta), madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), woad (Isatis tinctoria L. ), turmeric (Curcuma longa L.), young fustic (Cotinus coggygria SCOP.) and weld (Resedaluteola L.) based on traditional dyeing recipes. The samples were subjected to accelerated ageing at temperature 40 ± 2 oC and relative humidity 50 ± 2 %. Light ageing was performed using a 300 W Osram ULTRA-VITALUX lamp. Samples were collected after 240 h of treatment. Aged and unagedsamples were investigated using HPLC-DAD and SEM. The standard HCl method was used for dyestuff extraction.
Examples of tested samples
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 220
20
40
60
80
100 y.fustic wool
aged y.fustic wool
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Retention time (min)
Chromatographs of unaged and aged samples
Fisetin
Sulfuretin254 nm
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Carmini
c acid
Indigo
tin
Alizarin
Luteo
lin
Purpuri
n
Fiseti
n
Sulfure
tin
Curcu
min
unaged aged
C. Historical objects
B.2. SEM results
fresh aged historical
C.1. Description
AcknowledgmentsSupport by the Getty Foundation, through the Byz-tex-Athos project, is gratefully acknowledged.
References1. I. Karapanagiotis, A. Lakka, L. Valianou, Y. Chryssoulakis (2008) Microchim Acta 160 :
477-483.
2. L. Valianou, K. Stathopoulou, I. Karapanagiotis, P. Magiatis, E. Pavlidou, A.-L.Skaltsounis, Yannis Chryssoulakis (2009) Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, in press.
200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 7000
10
20
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50
60
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80
90
100
200 250 300 350 400 450 500
m/z
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rela
tive
Abun
danc
e
268,4
269,4
200 250 300 350 400 450 500
m/z
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rela
tive
Abun
danc
e
268,4
269,4
OOH
O
OH
OHSulfuretin
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Wavelength (nm)
SulfuretinSulfuretin (2)(2)
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10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100OHOH
O
OHOH
3,4,2 ,́4 -́tetrahydroxychalcone
OHOH
O
OHOH
3,4,2 ,́4 -́tetrahydroxychalcone
200 250 300 350 400 450 500m/z
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eA
bund
ance
270,4
271,4
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eA
bund
ance
270,4
271,4
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Wavelength (nm)
ButeinButein (4)(4)
C.2. Preliminary HPLC results
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10
20
30
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50
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80
90
100
OOH
OOH
OHOHfisetin
200 250 300 350 400 450 500m/z
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eA
bund
ance
284,4
285,4
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eA
bund
ance
284,4
285,4
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Wavelength (nm)
FisetinFisetin (1)(1)
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10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
O
OH
OH
OH
O
OH
OH
Quercetin
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eAb
unda
nce
300,4
301,4
316,3
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eAb
unda
nce
300,4
301,4
316,3
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Wavelength (nm)
QuercetinQuercetin (3)(3)
200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 7000
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100OHOH
O
OH
4,2́ ,4́ -trihydroxychalcone
OHOH
O
OH
4,2́ ,4́ -trihydroxychalcone
200 250 300 350 400 450 500m/z
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eAbu
ndan
ce
254,4
255,4
256,5
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rel
ativ
eAbu
ndan
ce
254,4
255,4
256,5
Rel
ativ
e A
bsor
banc
e
Wavelength (nm)
IsoliquiritigeninIsoliquiritigenin (5)(5)
Microsamples extracted from the ecclesiastical garment (sakkos) of Bishop Neilos Esfigmenitis (18th cent.) were analyzed by HPLC. Fisetin (1), sulfuretin (2) and quercetin (3) in trace, were identified, suggesting thus that Cotinuscoggygria Scop. (young fustic) was used during dyeing. Two more young fustic components (4 and 5) were identified [2].
Sakkos of Bishop Neilos Esfigmenitis.
Heartwood of young fustichas been used to dye silk
or wool fibres sinceantiquity.
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27
Time (min)
35404550556065707580859095100
Rel
ativ
eA
bsor
banc
e
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27
Time (min)
35404550556065707580859095100
Rel
ativ
eA
bsor
banc
e
11
22
44 55
33
Thirty, post-byzantine textile works from the Monastery of SimonosPetra (IMSP) will be studied, analyzed, documented and conserved.