portuguese connection

name

guideYour 5-day

Lisbon& Porto

to

Every time you see this play symbol you can access www.portugueseconnection.co.uk and watch the videowatch the videos

five days to make the connection

Play our connections game for your chance to

win 2 return ticketsto Brazil with a 5-day stop-over in Lisbon or Porto.

www.portugueseconnection.co.uk

contents

Just as we were closing this issue, yet another “Portuguese Connection” was brought to us, straight from South Africa, and in the form of the results of the draw for the 2010 World Cup: Brazil is to play Portugal.

The date (25th June) of what promises to be one of the best games of the first group stages, is already up on the walls of the Jungle office. The duel will take place in Durban, a city on the East coast of South Africa, a country well served by flights with TAP Portugal who, together with Turismo de Portugal (the tourist board of Portugal), helped make this guide a reality.

In September 2009, part of the Jungle team, accompanied by O Globo UK correspondent Fernando Duarte, and designer-cum-cook, Fernando Cuca, headed off to Porto and Lisbon to produce this guide, as well as a website with unmissable tips, information and videos, which you can find at www.portugueseconnection.co.uk.

There, you’ll also have a chance to win a return ticket to any of TAP’s eight destinations in Brazil, with the right to a 5-day pit stop in Portugal in a luxury hotel, courtesy of Pousadas de Portugal.

In the meantime, browse these pages and enjoy the delights of a country which has so much connecting it to Brazil. The battle between Cristiano Ronaldo and Kaká in South Africa just promises more flavour in a mix already so very rich.

Juliano Zappia

Bem-vindos!

portuguese connection 3

PUBLISHERJuliano Zappia

MANAGING EDITORFernando Duarte

PROJECT COORDINATOR Nando Cuca

EDITORIAL /PHOTOGRAPHYAna Naomi de Sousa

DESIGNERS Neni Almeida Thellius Zamprogno

SPECIAL THANKS TO Porto Convention & Visitors Bureau (Madalena Dinis), Sheraton Hotel and SPA Porto, Taylor Caves, Top Travel (Paulo Muxa), Pestana Ribeira Hotel. JUNGLEDRUMS’ CONTACT

020 7242 [email protected]

P.O.BOx 49713LONDON wC1x 8ww

The team beaming into the futuristic Casa da Música, in Porto.

COVER PICTURE BY EDUARDO ZAPPIA

lisbon

4 portuguese connection

OK, so there are the obvious attractions like the average 3,000-plus hours of annual sunshine, and the ever more accepted truth that this is one of the most beautiful and cul-turally vibrant cities in the world. Lisbon, however, would be sold short if we did not also mention its role as the cradle of European expansion, where the discovery of the world as we know it began all the way back in the 15th Century.

Nonetheless, Lisbon boasts far more than just memories of a past both glorious and tragic (an earthquake ravaged most of the city in 1755): it also symbolises the renaissance of Por-tugal, after the country spent a great part of the 20th century under the suffocating fascist dictatorship of António Salazar.

During the last few decades, Portugal has experienced economic growth and development - and Lisbon is its business card, from the tiny, Moorish streets of the Alfama to modern constructions such as the Nations Park, the mesmerising site of the 1998 Expo world fair.

Lisbon: sensorial treatan introduction to the city of seven hills

It’s a city where you can look back into a fascinating colonial past and ahead to a cosmopolitan, multi-cultural future. Where a trendy contemporary design scene unfolds in medieval houses. Where Europe meets Africa and the Middle East. A city where cobbled alleys and stone houses keep you refreshed, even when the sun is mercilessly beating down.

For tourists on their way to Brazil for the first time there could not be a better place to start the jour-ney, before retracing the steps of intrepid navigators who crossed the Atlantic in the 15th century. v

Streetcars of desire Lisbon is tattooed with a series of narrow tram lines which connect almost all of the city’s ‘bairros’ and also offer a charm-ing journey. Four lines still use the old Brill carriages of the 1930s: the 12, 18, 25 and 28.

lisbon


Alfama Lose yourself in this historical Moorish neighbourhood of Lisbon, one of the few that survived the massive earthquake of 1755 un-scathed. Small shops, restaurants and ordinary folk all inhabit this labyrinth of ancient, narrow streets.

Miradouros Sunsets are even more special with a glass of chilled wine or ice cold beer at Noo Bai, on the Santa Catarina Miradouro, one of Lisbon’s famous view points, from which you can appreciate the views from each of the city’s seven hills.

Parque das Nações / Nations Park Portugal joined the EU in 1986 but its arrival was properly an-nounced 12 years later when this impressive park was built. Visit the wonderful Lisbon Aquarium and take the cable car that runs the full length of the site.

Belém The monuments to Portugal’s maritime past are all here - from the Tower of Belém to the amazing Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Jerónimos monastery. Belém is a fundamental stop in Lisbon, and is also where you’ll find the original Portuguese custard tart.

HISTORY

Lisbon is one of the oldest capitals in Europe, and it boomed during the 16th century with the wealth generated by Portugal’s maritime expeditions, when extravagant land-marks such as the Jerónimos Monas-tery and the Torre de Belém were erected. Much had to be rebuilt, however, after the earthquake of 1755.

not to miss

When you see a play symbol you can access www.portugueseconnection.co.uk to watch the video

lisbon

As a musical genre characterised by mournful tunes and lyrics, and often about the life of the poor, it’s no surprise that Fado (meaning fate) is known as the “Portuguese Blues” – though some performers and fans scowl at the definition. It is arguably Portugal’s most well-known cultural export and although linked to tradition and the past – not always in a good way, owing to patronage of the genre by the Salazar dictatorship - Fado has experienced a revival and regeneration in the last few years thanks to a new generation of singers such as Mariza and Cristina Branco, who bring their love for other rhythms such as jazz and soul into the mix.

For newcomers, however, traditional Fado is still a real treat, especially the experience of having singers literally at your table. The city is full of places where fadistas – anonymous or established – will drop by for a couple of songs. Choosing the right bar is essential and there are some tourists traps, but Mesa de Frades, in Alfama, won’t let you down. In Bairro Alto, try Adega do Ribatejo, where staff are also singers and players. The Fado Museum has more information as well as impromptu concerts. v


The Portuguese bluesFado • nights out in lisbon

Mesa de Frades, Rua dos Remedios 139Awww.mesadefrades.com

For the young and insomniac, Lisbon’s nightlife is all about the Bairro Alto. Lisboetas of all ages and interests flock here on the weekend, and after 12am it really gets going. You can just wander from bar to bar all night, but we suggest Maria Caxuxa (retro cool), Café Royale (gay) or Capela (hyper).

Between Bairro Alto and our next stop, the Bica slope has been a trendy hotspot for over a decade – the Bicaense bar is highly recommended! Heading down the road for clubs and electronic music, Cais do Sodré, has swanky venues, like Music Box.

A little further in Santos, there are options off the beat-en track - African clubs like Com Vento. For a super-club, Lisbon’s premier big nightspot is Lux.

NIGHT OwL

lisbon


Lisbon has a range of hotels. But combining privacy, comfort and inde-pendence by staying in a self-catered apartment has grown in popularity, especially as it’s often possible to strike it lucky in terms of luxury and price (some places, for example, offer space for four people at a total of €60 per night, a much better rate than you’ll find at any hotel).

In the case of Portugal Exclusive Homes, these prices can include satellite TV, air-conditioning/heating and free internet for a range of apartments spread around the capital - as well as the opportunity to blend in with the locals and to get to know one of the historical neighbourhoods of the city.

Lisbon has plenty of options from B&Bs and guest houses to the poshest spa hotel, but beware if you’re a light sleeper. The northern end of the Baixa has the most plentiful but also the noisiest lodgings, for example. For 24-hour party people, Bairro Alto is a must for crawl-home-to-bed ease, but neighborhoods such as Alfama and Mouraria, or those further from the centre are a better option for a more peaceful stay. And anywhere up one of Lisbon’s seven hills you will probably find a room with a view. v

Lord of the manorwhere to stay

Hotel do Chiado Hard to beat this one; perched on Largo do Camões with the most in-credible views of the city and the Tejo; and within walking distance of Chiado and the Bairro Alto. Voted as one of the best hotels in the world by Condé Nast.

Casa do Bairro Offers individually decorated rooms from €55 per night in Santa Catarina, with a choice between B&B bedrooms and self-catering apartments, it’s an absolute gem.

Lisbon Poets Hostel Offering a choice of dorms, rooms and apartments in two locations, all beautifully decorated, creative, safe and clean, this is much, much more than your average hostel experience, yet won’t bust your budget.

Portuguese Exclusive Homeswww.portugalexclusivehomes.com

STAY HERE3TOP

lisbon


Even before Portugal used northeastern Brazil for sugar-cane cultivation in the 16th century, the nuns and monks of Lisbon were already inventing recipes using copious egg yolks. These were left over in large quantities from the process of starching habits and cloaks with egg whites.

The results of their culinary experiments were - all puns intended - heav-enly and well appreciated, and as a result, Portugal has a strong tradition of sweet pastries and cakes, some with brilliant names like “nun’s belly”. Many have ingredients such as cinnamon and coconut, the treasures from Portugal’s maritime adventures in Asia and South America.

The most famous cake is the Pastel de Belém (a custard tart), whose original factory, in the famous Lisbon neighbourhood, still attracts crowds of locals and tourists at peak times (be prepared to queue on weekends!).

Sweets aside, Lisbon’s cuisine reflects the nation’s love of pork and sea-food, and as well as the many dishes with cod and sardines, it is rich in stews and roasts. Just make sure you save space for desert. v

Sweet heavens abovesugar and spice

Pasteis do Belém Rua do Belém no. 84,

Bica do Sapato Modern and minimalist, Bica do Sapato is a swish conversion of warehouses around Lisbon’s Santa Apolonia harbour area. It has 3 spaces (bistro, restaurant and sushi bar), all with great views of the Tejo. Cuisine is modern Portuguese/ Mediterranean

Cervejaria Ramiro One of Lisbon’s best seafood restau-rants and a great place for prawns with garlic served in a sizzling dish or the enigmatic ‘Percebes’ (Goose barnacles - ugly but delicious).

O Ideal do Conde Barão Tucked down a tiny side street, this typical Portuguese tasca bustles with politicians and local shop vendors at lunchtime, when main courses cost around just €5.

3TOP

EAT HERE

lisbon


Lisbon is one of those cities where old-world nostalgia meets funky retro, and it’s the perfect place to pick up unusual treasures.

For good, old-fashioned tourist-tack, try the shops around the Baixa down-town, where you’ll also find the deliciously chintzy Amália Rodrigues record shop, as well as some top-shops for wine, cheese and sardines displayed in old glass cabinets.

The roads between Chiado and the Baixa are still home to some of Lisbon’s oldest boutiques, including Luvaria Ulisses, which sells beautiful hand-crafted gloves; and the Chapelaria do Rossio hat-shop.

There are several, large shopping malls in Lisbon, but for top-end designer shops, it has to be Avenida da Liberdade. For unique, vintage and funky finds, however, you need to venture into the Bairro Alto during daylight hours, where you’ll see across dozens of tiny shops crammed with goodies.

The Wrong Shop, near Carmo, turns the concept of tourist souvenirs on its head, producing cockerels painted with the flags of other countries, and T-shirts with slogans like “Portugal regrets inventing fado”. v

Retail Therapy in LisbonWhere to shop • What to buY

fAIRS dEALSLisbon’s markets provide a fresh way to see the city’s heart and soul - whether lying amongst the heaps of antiques and bric-a-brac, or in the hustle and bustle of the old-fashioned indoor food markets.

For everything from 1930’s pho-tographs to shoes to used mobile phones, get to Feira da Ladra, behind the São Vicente monastery every Tuesday and Saturday morning. Here you’ll find nos-talgic junk and occasional gems.

If you’re up early (before sunrise), head to Mercado da Ribeira, oppo-site Cais do Sodré, where you’ll find old-school Lisbonites gather-ing to purchase fresh produce from their favourite vendors.

The wrong ShopCalçada do Sacramento 25,

porto

10 portuguese connection10 portuguese connection

Although not as famous worldwide as Lisbon, Porto is one of Europe’s most charismatic cities. From monuments to boat trips, romantic retreats to sizzling nightclubs, Portugal’s old-est city offers a range of sights and attractions for first-tim-ers, to fit the needs of every type of traveller - including those interested in a very special, fortified, sweet wine.

At the mouth of the Rio Douro, this hilly city encapsulates many styles, eras and attitudes. Visitors can follow the narrow, medieval alleyways while taking in extravagant baroque churches, some of them groaning under the weight of precious metals; or along wide boulevards lined with stately beaux-arts buildings; or down the pretty banks of the river.

In the last two decades, and especially since landing the title of European Capital of Culture in 2001, Porto has had an urban makeover, a brand new metro system, and ambitious renewal projects. Amongst these are two of the most impres-sive buildings in the city - Álvaro Siza Vieira’s Museu

Porto, the star of the northa citY steeped in historY

de Arte Contemporânea at the Ser-ralves, and Rem Koolhaas’ Casa da Música (see opposite page).

Porto is famous for having tripe as its most traditional dish - and those originating in Porto are nicknamed as tripe eaters (“tripeiros”).

Porto’s simple eateries reveal the secrets of its gastronomical past, but it has also enjoyed a recent culinary renaissance, with a num-ber of forward-leaning restaurants and bars opening their doors in the last few years. It’s no wonder that the Portuense are such a proud bunch, and so eager to show their city to newcomers. v

porto

portuguese connection 11 portuguese connection 11

Clerigos’ Tower Although not for the faint-hearted or claustrophobic (it has 225 steps and narrow corridors all the way to the top), the Clerigo’s Tower, built in 1763 by Italian architecture genius Niccolo Nasoni, offers stunning views of Porto for only €2.

Livraria Lello Ranked 3rd in a list of the world’s 10 most stunning bookshops compiled by The Guardian in 2008, Lello is worth a visit for its “staircase to heaven” alone. But is also offers a huge selection of local titles translated into English.

River douro River Cruises – from the panoramic bridge tour, which only lasts 50 minutes, to whole cruises to the wine country that include stepping on grapes, no one should miss the chance to see Porto from a boat.

Mercado Bolhão Porto’s historic food market has resisted several attempted clo-sures and refurbishments.This is the place to head to for fresh produce and living history. The local vendors, who love to chat, are an added bonus to the visit.

Cais da Ribeira Take an afternoon to explore one of the last ungentrified riverside neighborhoods in Europe. On the Ribeira, trendy street bars share space with shabby but charming watering holes, all within view of the famous bridge built by Gustave Eiffel (yes, the one who built the tower).

not to miss

HISTORY

As an ancient port dating back to the 4th Century, Porto played a pivotal role in Portugal’s his-tory - its shipyards produced some of the vessels with which 14th Portu-guese navigators launched their great expeditions. One of the city’s revolts against the English led to the creation of the Portuguese Republic, in 1910.


porto


Portugal’s second city is the only place that provides the authentic experi-ence of tasting Port wine at its cradle. It was in the Douro Valley that the sweet, fortified wine was first made and it went on to become world famous in the 18th century, when the Napoleonic wars forced the British to find a substitute for the wine traditionally imported from France. It is for this reason that many Port houses along the city’s waterfront bear British names and some still belong to old Anglo-Portuguese families.

The Caves (or lodges) where the barrels of port are stored are one of the main tourist attractions in Porto. Some of the houses are more than 300 years old and nearly every one of them is open for guided tours, offering a crash course in Port connaissance- including a chance to try the goods. Taylor’s, one of the few houses that still belong to the original owners, is a well-recommended destination. Not only for its flawless tour but also for the panoramic restaurant overlooking Foz and Ribeira.

For those looking for a complete wine experience, there are tours that take visitor to the wine country and allow them to cut their own grapes. v

NIGHT OwL

Once upon a wineport caves

Taylor’s Port wine Lodges www.taylor.pt

Porto has some in-triguing options for post-supper tipple.

The Galerias de Paris street offers a sprinkling of bars and eateries in the city centre, in comparison to the more touristy but undeniably pretty Cais da Ribeira, on the riverside.

If you’re looking for a younger, more alternative crowd, you should check out Maus Habitos, which has live music and a funky set-up. Key clubbing sports are PlanoB, and the ever-sur-prising Era Uma Vez no Porto.

Like in Lisbon, revellers party till sunrise. So why not round up with breakfast at Café Majestic, one of Porto’s most tra-ditional coffee hous-es, for a good galão - or even a pingo (the Portuense for espresso)?

SERRALvES Perhaps the most important modern art museum in Por-tugal, constructed by renowned archi-tect Siza Vieira, the Serralves is set in beautiful gardens brimming with art.

porto


As well as being an architectural gem conceived by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas and full of surprises, Casa da Música (The House of Music) is Portugal’s first construction dedicated entirely to music, and has a wide-ranging programme of events from classical concerts to rave parties, and often hosts free sessions.

It was constructed to celebrate Porto’s status as European Capital of Cul-ture in 2001, but Casa da Música goes further than promoting gigs. Within its walls there is a suspended bar, interactive sound exhibits, a room with walls made of green sponge, and a children’s creche with speakers and sound-proof windows overlooking the main concert hall, allowing the little ones to enjoy the same concerts as their parents in a customised space.

There are different ways to enjoy the Casa da Música; either just turn up and see what happens, grab a programme and book yourself some tickets to a live show, or get a guided tour of the building’s nooks and crannies, led by one of a team of experts made up of architects and musicians who love nothing more than to show off one of Porto’s finest attractions. v

The walls have ears museums • casa da música

Casa da Música, Avenida da Boavista, Portowww.casadamusica.com

porto


Resisting invasions and attacks had a deep impact on life in Porto - espe-cially eating habits. In the battles of the past, locals gave away the best cuts of meat to their soldiers and kept the offal (the organs and entrails), which was then cooked in different ways, giving rise to a variety of dishes and different types of sausage. To this day, natives of Porto are known as tripe-eaters, but nowadays their cuisine is much less sacrificial. There are delicious specialities using cod (Bacalhau Gomes de Sá, for example, with egg and chips) and other meat dishes such as roasted black pig.

However, one of the most famous “Portuense” dishes is actually a prime example of supersize fast-food: the Francesinha, a croque-monsieur à la Porto - that means very thick cuts of meat stuffed between two slices of bread, topped with melted cheese and drowning in a secret sauce whose only known ingredients are cockles and beer. Francesinhas are almost as compulsory for tourists as a good glass of Port. Unless you’re on a diet, of course. Looking for a more sophisticated experience? Head to Foz, Porto’s poshest neighbourhood, for the city’s top restaurants. v

The tripe of a lifetimegastronomY For strong stomachs

For more insider gastronomic tips www.oportocool.wordpress.com

Cafeína Located in the posh Foz neighbour-hood, Cafeína is one of Porto’s top restaurants of the day, with a conti-nental menu and an atrociously delicious wine list.

Chez Laplin Chez Lapin comes highly recom-mended by our Paulo Mucha, the Jungle Crew’s guide in Porto – and we trust his judge-ment. In any case, you mustn’t leave without sampling some of the typical dishes.

Capa Negra II Porto’s famous ‘Francesinha’ is a hearty sandwich with ham and steak, and a special sauce made with beer, dripping in cheese. Not great if you’re on a diet but delish. The best place to eat them is the famous Capa Negra II.

3TOP

EAT HERE

porto


Tourists visiting Porto can rest assured that the Invincible City has hotels for all budgets and needs. This does not mean, however, that a lavish expe-rience need leave you bankrupt. Perhaps the best example of this is the re-cently opened Pousada dos Freixos: installed in a 19th century palace that stands as a remarkable example of Portuguese pombaline architecture, the pousada has 75 rooms, as well as indoor and outdoor pools and stunning views of the river Douro, but rates can be as low as £90 a night.

On the other side of town, near Boavista, the Porto Sheraton Spa follows the same principle, with a combination of special packages including spa treat-ments, luxury facilities and an internationally acclaimed restaurant under the command of Jerónimo Ferreira, of one Portugal’s most famous chefs - his Fish Cataplana, by the way, is an unmissable treat cooked before your eyes.

For romantic trips, the Pestana Porto is great. Located in the heart of Ri-beira, Porto’s historic quarter, the hotel has a privileged riverside position, as part of a picturesque group of buildings dating back to the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. You won’t find a better location. v

A night at the palacewhere to stay

Porto Conventions and Visitor’s Bureauwww.portocvb.com

Sheraton Porto Hotel & Spa As well as the tasty nosh in their restau-rant, the rooms were super comfortable, and the spa is divine. Great if you feel like you deserve a treat.

Eurostar das Artes Ideally located in the heart of Porto, lies the Eurostar Das Artes hotel, close to the most important art galleries and the Boavista commer-cial and historic area. It is within walking distance of Ponte Dom Luis, Torre dos Clérigos, Mercado do Bolhão and the traditional Ribeira area.

Residencial Pão de Açúcar Chintzy and retro, this residential is like a blast from the past. It has a secret trump card too – a fantastic terrace overlooking the lights of Porto. It won’t break the bank either.

STAY HERE3TOP

website


TAP’S ACES

Unlike other travel guides, we bring different resources to people wanting to know a bit more about Lisbon and Porto before heading out to Brazil, which is why Jungle sent an editorial team that would go beyond the stuff you might find in an ordinary guide book to Portugal. Our intrepid editors, Fernando Duarte, Juliano Zappia and Nando Cuca, and photographer Ana de Sousa, went down to Porto and Lisbon for a whirlwind tour of the two cities to experience everything first-hand and bring you their tips.

On the website www.portugueseconnection.co.uk you’ll find the video recommendations and diary clips they recorded whilst out there. You’ll also find more details on accomodation, dining and partying in both cities and lots of hidden gems and other off the beaten track tips.

We hope their hard work will help you to enjoy these two great cities even more. There is also the added bonus of our brief guides to some other great Portuguese destinations – Madeira, Azores and Algarve. Don’t forget to check the Hot Tips section for stuff even locals don’t know about yet! v

Connect to connect!portuguese connections • bonus tracks

Portuguese Connectionwww.portugueseconnection.co.uk

win!

We picked up a vintage pack of TAP playing cards at the Feira da Ladra - and now they’re up for grabs - just enter www.jungledrum-sonline.com

website

portuguese connection 17 portuguese connection 17 portuguese connection 17

floating down the douro We took a lesuirely trip down the Douro river to get a view of the city as it was once seen by the British and Portuguese mer-chants who built the Port trade hundreds of years ago.

An audience with Guida Juliano gets to know the Por-tuguese jazz-singer Guida de Palma while looking out over the 25th April Bridge and the River Tejo, at the beautiful Noo Bai bar on the Santa Catarina Miradouro.

Lisbon Poets We get to grips with the poets of Portugal past and tracks down the monuments and statues honouring the country’s most famous lyricists, from Luis de Camões to Fernando Pessoa.

Ginginha’s taste of history As the sun set over Lisbon we headed downtown to try the city’s favourite tipple, a strong liquer made from Ginja cherries, and served, if you so desire, with the fruit seeds in the bottom of the cup.

With our video blog you can check out some of our hottest tips from Lisbon and Porto and see for yourself whether they - or we - are any good! From Porto’s markets to Lisbon’s poets, we’ve been there, done that, and got the video!

francesinha, the über-sarnie When we heard about Porto’s most famous sandwich with its secret sauce, we knew we had to try it – so we headed down to the famous Capa Negra II, and persuaded the cooks to show us how they make it.

Master the cataplana Top Portuguese Chef Jerónimo lets us into his open kitchen at Porto’s luxurious Sheraton Hotel, and shows us how to make one of the most delicious and surprisingly easy Portuguese dishes around.

video highlights


listings


Lisbon lodgings

Portuguese Exclusive Homes Various locations all over Lisbonwww.portugalexclusivehomes.com

Casa do BairroBeco do Caldeira, 1www.casadobairro.pt

Hotel do Chiado Largo do Camoes, 2 www.hoteldochiado.com

Lisbon Poets’ HostelRua Nova da Trindade, 2www.lisbonpoetshostel.com

Lisbon restaurants

Bica do SapatoAv.Infante Henrique, Cais da Pedra www.bicadosapato.com

Cervejaria RamiroAvenida Almirante Reis, 1 www.cervejariaramiro.pt

O Ideal do Conde BarãoRua da Silva, 33

Mesa de FradesRua dos Remédios, 139A www.mesadefrades.com

Pap D’AçordaRua da Atalaia, 57

O ChapitôCosta do Castelo, 7www.chapito.org

Sinal VermelhoR Gávea,s 89, Bairro Allto

Porto lodgings

Sheraton Porto Hotel SpaRua Tenente Valadim 146www.sheraton.com/porto

Pousada Palácio de FreixoEstrada Nacional, 108,Porto www.pousadas.pt

Residencial Pão de AçucarRua do Almada, 262www.residencialpaodeacucar.com

Oporto Poet’s Hostel Rua dos Caldeireiros, 261www.oportopoetshostel.com

Porto restaurants

Capa Negra IIRua Campo Alegre, 191, Porto www.capanegra.com

CafeinaRua do Padrão, 100, Porto

Chez LaplinRua dos Canastreiros, 40, Porto

Ar de RioAvenida Diogo Leite, 5, Gaia, Porto

Cinema Batalha Praça da Batalha, 47www.cinemabatalha.com

Where to eat, drink, stay and play in both cities

Hotels & restaurants portuguese connections listings

listings


need to knowPortugalMoney You can take Euros out at most cashpoints (ask for a ‘Multibanco’) and use your credit or debit card at most shops, hotels and restaurants etc (though you might pay a fee).

Average costs A beer - €1.50 ; A glass of wine - €1.20 ; Cheese & ham sandwich ‘Mista’ - €2.40 ; A cheap lunch - €6.00 ;

Lisbonfrom the airportLisbon only has one airport, and it’s pretty close to the city centre- about 20 mins max, and it will cost you around €10 in a taxi. Alternatively, you can also get a bus into the city centre from the stop outside the airport.

Transport Taxi: The easily recognisable yellow taxis are a cheap and efficient way to get around in Lisbon, especially at night. If you’re in a group it often works out as cheap as getting public transport.

Tube: Lisbon has an efficient tube network, which can take you from the Cidade Baixa to the suburbs quickly.

Train: Cais do Sodré provides connections to Belém, Cascais and Sintra, whilst the other sta-tions link Lisbon to the rest of the country. Rossio’s worth a look for its amazing art-deco style alone.

Tram: Definitely the most charming way to get around. Some of the routes still use the beauti-ful old-fashioned trams with wooden floors and many scale Lisbon’s steep hills slowly, allowing you plenty of time to take in the views.

One-way ticket within the city: Tram and Bus - €1.20; Metro €0.80.

Portofrom the airport Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport can be found 11km from downtown Porto and is therefore well served by public transport. There are also direct shuttle buses to hotels and the city centre. Taxis are available day and night and are fairly inexpensive (around €10-15 for a ride to the city centre).

Transport Taxi: They are a cheap and efficient way to get around in Porto, especially at night. Again, if in a group it’s often as cheap as getting public transport. Expect an average €3-5 for journeys within the city centre, with around 20% more for late night rides.

Tube: Young and fresh – it only opened for business in 2002 - Porto’s tube system has five independent lines that stretch from central areas to the suburbs across 37.5 miles.

Train: Porto is the principal rail hub for northern Portugal. Long-distance services start at Campanhã station, 2km east of the centre. Most suburban, regional and interregional (IR) trains start from São Bento station, though all these lines also pass through Campanhã.

Tram: Porto’s trams used to be one of its delights. Only three lines remain, but they’re very scenic. The Massarelos stop, on the riverfront near the foot of the Palácio Cristal, is the tram system’s hub. Trams run approximately every 30 minutes from 9am to 7pm.

One-way ticket within the city: Tram and Bus - €1.30; Metro €0.95.

WWW.portugueseconnection.co.uk

FORTALEZA

PORTO

TAP FIGHTS

ROUTES FROM LISBONROUTES FROM PORTOROUTES FROM LONDON HEATHROW/GATWICK

LISBON

GATWICK

HEATHROW

NATAL

RECIFE

SALVADORBRASÍLIA

BELO HORIZONTE

SÃO PAULORIO DE JANEIRO

portuguese connection

Documents

tap portugal

tourist board of portugal

spa porto

return ticketsto brazil

sheraton hotel

luxury hotel

fernando cuca

east coast of south