plenty vibrant recipes from london's ottolenghi
TRANSCRIPT
TableofContentsCoverPageTitlePageIntroductionRootsPoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaiseSpicyMoroccancarrotsaladBeet,orangeandblackolivesaladRoastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigretteTwo-potatovindalooBeet,yogurtandpreservedlemonrelishRoyalpotatosaladSurprisetatinJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloilSweetpotatowedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîcheParsnipdumplingsinbrothSeasonaltempuraSweetpotatocakes
FunnyOnionsLeekfrittersCaramelizedgarlictartStuffedonionsFriedleeksBlackpeppertofuGarlicsoupandharissa
MushroomsMushroomragoutwithpoachedduckeggBánhxèoStuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggioMarinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurtMushroomlasagne
WildmushroomparcelZucchiniandOtherSquashesHalloweensoufflésRoastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchile“Mixedgrill”withparsleyoilStuffedzucchiniZucchiniandhazelnutsaladCrustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcreamTamara’sratatouille
PeppersMulti-vegetablepaellaMarinatedpeppersaladwithpecorinoVeryfulltartScrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughShakshuka
BrassicasBroccoliandGorgonzolapieBroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladStuffedcabbageSmokyfrittataPurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlesCabbageandkohlrabisaladSweetwinterslawSavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoupBrusselssproutsandtofuSaffroncauliflower
TheMightyEggplantEggplantwithbuttermilksauceSobanoodleswitheggplantandmangoEggplanttricolore(andmore)BroiledvegetablesoupLentilswithbroiledeggplantEggplantcroquettes
BurnteggplantwithtahiniTomatoesMarinatedbuffalomozzarellaandtomatoQuinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladTomato,semolinaandcilantrosoupTomatopartyQuesadillasHerb-stuffedtomatoes
Leaves,CookedandRawBakedeggswithyogurtandchileChardandsaffronomelettesLettucesaladSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstewChardcakeswithsorrelsauceGreenpancakeswithlimebutterWatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsaladEgg,spinachandpecorinopizzaCaramelizedendivewithGruyèreGrapeleaf,herbandyogurtpieNuttyendivewithRoquefortBittersweetsalad
GreenThingsCucumbersaladwithsmashedgarlicandgingerLemonyglobeartichokesAsparagus,fennelandbeetswithverjusCaramelizedfennelwithgoatcheeseGlobeartichokeswithcrushedfavabeansArtichokegratinOkrawithtomato,lemonandcilantroGreengazpachoAsparagusmimosaChar-grilledasparagusAsparagusvichyssoise
MeegorengSobanoodleswithwakame
GreenBeansMixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovageFavabeanburgersGado-gadoGreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonWarmglassnoodlesandedamameHotyogurtandfavabeansoup
PulsesPuylentilgalettesHummuswithfulChickpeasautéwithGreekyogurtFriedlimabeanswithfeta,sorrelandsumacCeleriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmintChickpea,tomatoandbreadsoupGreenlentils,asparagusandwatercressSpicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurtCastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandGorgonzolaSocca
GrainsAvocado,quinoaandfavabeansaladCoconutricewithsambalandokraLemonandeggplantrisottoFarroandroastedpeppersaladSteamedricewithherbs(or,actually,herbswithrice)YogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushroomsBarleyandpomegranatesaladKısırCardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtFreekehpilafItamar’sbulgurpilafMangoandcoconutricesalad
QuinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimePasta,Polenta,CouscousLemonandgoatcheeseravioliCrunchypappardellePastaandfriedzucchinisaladGreencouscousSaffrontagliatellewithspicedbutterTheultimatewintercouscousMushroomandherbpolentaSweetcornpolenta
FruitwithCheeseFigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigretteGoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachesQuinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladPearcrostiniDatesandTurkishsheep’scheeseWatermelonandfeta
IndexAcknowledgmentsCopyright
IntroductionI’llstartwithsomethingassimpleandunassumingasrice.WhenItrytothinkofalltheusesforthisgrainIimmediatelygodizzywiththecountlesspossibilities-withinandbetweencultures,pairingwithotheringredients,allthetypesofriceavailable,themethodsofcookingandwhenyouserveit,theconsistency,degreeofprocessing,homecooking,commercialuses.Ithinkofpaella,wildricesaladand ho fan noodles. I visualize arancini with their golden breadcrumb crust,Iraniansaffronricewithpotatoes,Chinesefriedrice,ricepudding.Irecallplainsteamed ricemymomused to prepare formewhen I had a bad tummy,withonlyalittlebitofbutterstirredinattheend.Icanthenmoveontoanothercerealgrainsuchaswheatandthinkofthingswedo with flour - dumplings, pastas, breads, pastries - or of less-processedexampleslikebulghurorwholewheat.Mymindthenwanderstothesphereoflentils, driedbeans, greenbeans, peas.There areherbs, leaves, seeds, flowers,roots, bulbs, fruit and fungi - each part of a separate little universe, with amillionvarietiesandvariationswithinit.WhatIamgettingatishowluckyweare(althoughunfortunatelynotallofus)tobe living andcooking in aworld that offers sucha spectrumof ingredientsandsomanyculinaryheritages todrawon.Andthis iswhatgetsmeexcited-the multitude of ingredients cooked and processed by so many people in somanywayswithsomanydifferentpurposes.
TheNewVegetarian
Backin2006,whenIwasfirstapproachedbytheGuardiantowriteavegetariancolumnintheirWeekendmagazine,Iwasslightlyhesitant.Afterall,Iwasn’tavegetarian.The issuewasn’t close tomyheart either and I hadnever given itmuchthought.Still,IunderstoodthereasoningbehindtheGuardian’sapproach.Ottolenghihadbecomefamousforwhatwedidwithvegetablesandgrains,forthefreshnessandoriginalityofoursalads,anditonlymadesensetoaskmetosharethiswithvegetarianreaders.It tookmeawhile, though, toget togripswithmytitle,TheNewVegetarian,and itmade someGuardian readers extremely unhappy to learn that the newvegetarianwasn’tavegetarianatall.Acoupleofangryletterstotheeditorstickin my mind and an incident where I suggested serving a salad with some
barbecuedlambchops.Unfortunately,myeditormissedthistoo.Butwithtimethetaskhasbecomemorenaturaltome.Ottolenghi’svegetarianimagewasrightlybasedonthefactthatbothSamiTamimi-theothercreativeforcebehind thecompanyandco-authorofOttolenghi:TheCookbook - and Iwere brought up in Israel and Palestine andwere exposed to themultitude ofvegetables, pulses and grains that are celebrated in the region’s differentcuisines.The food I had growing upwas a hugemixture of diverse culinary cultures -EuropeanathomeandMiddleEasternallaround-withanabundanceofeasilysourced fresh ingredients. The greengrocer’s where my mother does hershopping in theneighboringArabvillagealways remindsmeof this. It sells afantasticallyfreshabundanceoflocalandseasonalfruitandveg,whatIcallrealfruit andvegbecause they look real, taste real andaregrownby realpeople -that is, Arab or Jewish farmers and not nameless farmers across the globe. Itsellscucumbers,kohlrabis,figs,pomegranates,apricots,almondsandpistachios,aswellasherbs fromthearea, localhalva,oliveoilandmuchmore.Bothmyparentsusedthiswealthdailytopreparerealmealsofrealfood,whichistheirfood.Thismultitudeofingredientsandwaysofmakingmiracleswiththemhavegivenmetheperfecttoolsformakingupdishesandturningthemintorecipes.Thisisalsowhyvegetariancookingdidn’tturnouttobeachoreforme.IlikemeatandI like fish but I can easily cook without them. My grandmother’s vinegar-marinatedzucchini,ortheripefigswithsheep’scheeseweusedtodownbeforedinner,areassubstantialandasbasicasanycutofmeatIusedtohave.
Vegetarianism
Still,Iamnotavegetarianandthisisimportanttomention.IrefertomeatandfishintheintroductionstotherecipesasIoccasionallyhavetheminthebackofmymind.But I don’tmiss these two elements. In this book I offer dozens ofsoliddishes,allbalancedandnurturing,thatjusthappentoincludeneitherfishnormeat.Why vegetarianism then?What is the reason behind not havingmeat or fish?Whywouldpeoplebeinterestedinthisvegetariancollection?First,thisisanassemblyofmyworkintheGuardianoverthepastfouryears.Ihaveoftenbeenaskedby readers,who’vebecome fedupwithcollecting littlebitsoftornpaper,toassembleitalltogetherinonevolume.Mostofthesebitsof
paperarenowhereforthem,plusplentymorenewrecipesIhaven’tpublishedbefore.But more to the point, people have very different motivations for wanting tocookvegetarianrecipes.Somechooseunequivocallytoexcludemeatfromtheirdiet.Manydothisformoralorotherpersonalreasons,whichIbothunderstandand respect. These people may find allusions to non-vegetarian ingredientsdisturbing. Some may not like my extensive use of eggs and dairy products.Manywould probably be put off bymy advocating the use of Parmesan andother continental cheeses that almost always include animal rennet in theirproduction.Myanswer toall theseobjections is that Icanonlybemyselfandcookwhat I like to eat. I believe thatmost seasoned vegetarianswould knowwhich elements in the book to adopt andwhich to disregard,which suit theirtypeofvegetarianismandwhichdon’t.A second group of people, which is increasingly growing in number, arepragmaticvegetarians, thosewhohaveexcludedmeatorfishfromtheirdiet tosome degree, but are not completely put off by the notion. This groupwouldincludepeoplewhoareconcernedwiththehealthimplicationsofeatingmeat.Italsoconsistsofpeoplewhowouldliketoeliminateorreducetheirconsumptionofmeatandfishduetotheenvironmentalimplications.Theyareputoffbywhatmass-scalefarmingdoestothelandandthesea,howgrowingnumbersofcattleherdscontribute to thegrowth ingreenhousegasesand thewarmingupof theplanet.Manylongforatimewhenmeatwasprecious,areasonforcelebrationratherthanacheapcommodity,atimewhenfarmanimalswerehighlyregardedandtheirslaughtermoresensible.Recentcampaignsforthereducedconsumptionofmeatemphasizehowwastefulitistogainourcaloriesfrommeatratherthanfromvegetables,pulsesorgrains.This argument and the general sense of over-indulgence over the last fewdecades have convinced many to include less meat in their diet, to make itspecialandvaluableagain.This, along with increased availability of old and new vegetables and theknowledgeofhowtogrowthemorsourcethemethically,isthemostimportantforcebehindtheheightenedinterestinvegetarianfood.
TheBook
I divided this book into chapters in quite an unsystematic way. More thananything, it reveals the way I think and work when writing a recipe. At the
center of everydish, at the beginningof the thought process, is an ingredient,oneingredient-notjustanyingredientbutoneofmyfavoriteingredients.Itendto set offwith this central element and then try to elaborate on it, enhance it,bringitoutinanewway,whilestillkeepingitinthecenter,attheheartofthefinaldish.So the chapters reflect this bias. They focus on some ingredients and neglectothers, and they hold them together in clusters that make sense tome. Somecomponents are so central to my cooking - like eggplant, of course - that Idedicateaspecialchaptertothemalone.Thentherearebotanicalcategories,likebrassicas, thatalthougha littlescientificactuallymakesensetome; theybringtogether vegetables that I naturally associatewith eachother, earthyyet fresh.Other headings stem from other private associations and the way I shapemymenus.Manyof the recipes thatwere publishedbefore,mainly in theGuardian, havehadsomechangesmadetothem,somemoreradicalthanothers.Ican’talwaysrecount why these changes were made. My style of cooking and writing haschangedovertheyearsandthingsthatseemedtomakesensethen(potatoinanartichokegratin,forexample)don’tmakesensenow.Butmoregenerally,everytimeyouapproachadish,atleastwhenIdo,itfeelsslightlydifferent.Itseemstobeaskingforalittlealteration,fortheadditionofthisortheremovalofthat.Itrytostayattentivetothis.Iguessthisiswhatmakesrealfood.YotamOttolenghi
Roots
Poachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise
Poaching is popular again, and rightly so. Vegetables cooked this way don’tneed to be insipid or dull; if not overcooked, they can show off their natural
attributesandtastefreshandlightinawaythatyounevergetwhenroastingorfrying.
Whenmaking this recipe,choosebeautiful seasonalvegetables thatareclearlyfresh and flavorful.Baby turnips or cornwillwork too, andyou can also addfreshfavabeans,peasandgreenbeans.Justremember togiveyourvegetablesminimum treatment - don’t chop themupmuchanddon’t cook them forverylong.Servethevegetableswarmorcold.
Serves4
Mayonnaise1/2garlicclove,crushed1eggyolk11/2tspwhitewinevinegar1/2tspDijonmustard1/2tspsaltgratedzestandjuiceof1/2lemon1/3cupvegetableoil2tbspcapers,drainedwellandfinelychopped
1bunchbabycarrots,peeled4babyfennel12spearsfineasparagus8babyzucchini10babyleeks2tbspchoppeddilltoserve
Poachingliquor21/2cupswhitewine1cupoliveoil2/3cuplemonjuice2bayleaves1/2onion2celerystalks1tspsalt
Tomakethemayonnaise.Placethegarlic,eggyolk,vinegar,mustard,saltandlemonjuiceinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Startblendingandthenveryslowlydribbleintheoiluntilyougetathickmayonnaise.Foldinthecapersandlemonzestandsetaside.
Washthevegetablesbutdon’ttrimthemtoomuchsoyouareleftwithsomeofthe stalk or leaves. Cut the vegetables lengthways into halves or quarters,depending on their size, trying to get similarly sized pieces. Very thinvegetables,likeasparagus,don’tneedtobecut.
Tomakethepoachingliquor.Place thewineinawidepanandboilfor2 to3minutes.Add all the other poaching liquor ingredients and bring to a simmer.Start thepoachingbyaddingthecarrotsandfennel to thepot.After3minutesaddtheasparagus,zucchiniandleeksandpoachforafurther3to4minutes.Atthispointthevegetablesshouldbecookedbutstillcrunchy.
Using tongs lift thevegetables from thepoaching liquor andontodeepplates.Spoonsome liquoraround thevegetables ifyou like.Before serving, topeachportionwith a dollop ofmayonnaise and sprinklewith dill.You can keep theremainingpoachingliquorinthefridgetouseagain.
SpicyMoroccancarrotsalad
Therearecountlessvariationsonthisgutsysalad,allincorporatingsweetspices,freshherbsandsomesortoflemonykick.MyversionisintenseandwillgowellasonecomponentinafeastofMiddleEasternsalads,orjusttoaccompanyfriedfish.Youcanserveitwarm,aswellascold,withFreekehPilafforinstance.
Serves4
2lbscarrots1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratofinish1mediumonion,finelychopped1tspsugar3garliccloves,crushed2mediumgreenchiles,finelychopped1greenonion,finelychopped1/8tspgroundcloves1/4 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp ground coriander 3/4 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp
sweetpaprika1tspgroundcumin1tbspwhitewinevinegar1tbspchoppedpreservedlemonsalt21/2 cups cilantro leaves, chopped, plus extra to garnish 1/2 cupGreekyogurt,
chilledPeel the carrots and cut them, depending on their size, into cylinders orsemicircles 1/2 inch thick; all the pieces should end up roughly the same size.Placeinalargesaucepanandcoverwithsaltedwater.Bringtotheboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmerforabout10minutesoruntiltenderbutstillcrunchy.Draininacolanderandleavetodryout.
Heattheoilinalargepanandsautétheonionfor12minutesonamediumheatuntilsoftandslightlybrown.Addthecookedcarrotstotheonion,followedbyall theremainingingredients,apartfromthecilantroandyogurt.Removefromtheheat.Seasonliberallywithsalt,stirwellandleavetocool.
Before serving, stir in the cilantro, taste andadjust the seasoning if necessary.Serveinindividualbowlswithadollopofyogurt,adrizzleofoilandgarnishedwiththeextracilantro.
Beet,orangeandblackolivesalad
Themildsweetnessofbeetsoffersanidealbackgroundfortheintensityofsharporangeandsaltyolive,creatinganunusualyetdelicioussalad.UseGreekblackolivesofthedry,wrinkledvariety.Havingmaturedlongeronthetree,theyaresaltierandmore robust in flavor. Ifyouwish tokeep thesaladmoremildandfreshitalsotastesgreatwithouttheolives.ServewithSteamedRicewithHerbstocreatealightandhealthfulmeal.
Serves2generously
5smallor2largebeets2oranges1Treviso(redchicory)1/2smallredonion,thinlysliced3tbspchoppedparsley5tbspblackolives,pittedandhalved3tbspgrapeseedoil
1tsporangeflowerwater11/2tbspredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper
Placethebeetsinapot,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Cookfor1to2hours,oruntiltender-whenyoustickasmallknifeintoeachbeetitshouldgoinsmoothly.Leavethebeetstocooldowninthewater.Oncecool,takethemoutandpeel.Cutinhalf,thencuteachhalfintowedgesthatare1inchthickattheirbase.Placethebeetsinamixingbowl.
Take theoranges anduse a small sharpknife to trimoff their tops andbases.Nowcutdownthesidesoftheoranges,followingtheirnaturalcurves,toremovethe skin and white pith. Over a small bowl remove the segments from theorangesbyslicingbetween themembranes.Transfer thesegmentsand juice tothebowlwiththebeets;discardthemembrane.
Cut theTrevisovertically into1-inch-thickslices.Break themup intoseparateleavesandaddtothesalad.
Finally,addtheremainingingredientsandtosseverythingtogethergently.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,thenserve.
Roastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigrette
Treatthisrecipeasablueprintforaninfinitenumberofroastvegetabledishes.The point here is to lighten up long-cooked veggieswith something crisp andfresh. You can use any of your favorite vegetables - rutabaga, potato, carrot,salsify,beet, cauliflower - andmanyother refreshingcombinationsat theend:choppedherbs such as basil ormint, grated lemonzest, harissapaste, crushedgarlicoramellowvinegar.
Serves4
4parsnips(11/2lbstotal)4mediumredonions2/3cupoliveoil4thymesprigs2rosemarysprigs1headgarlic,halvedhorizontallysaltandblackpepper2mediumsweetpotatoes(11/4lbstotal)30cherrytomatoes,halved
2tbsplemonjuice4tbspsmallcapers(roughlychoppediflarge)1/2tbspmaplesyrup1/2tspDijonmustard1tbsptoastedsesameseeds(optional)
Preheattheovento375°F.Peeltheparsnipsandcutintotwoorthreesegments,depending on their lengths. Then cut each piece lengthways into two or four.Youwantpieces roughly2 inches longand1/2-inchwide.Peel theonionsandcuteachintosixwedges.
Placetheparsnipsandonionsinalargemixingbowlandadd1/2cupoftheoliveoil,thethyme,rosemary,garlic,1teaspoonsaltandsomepepper.Mixwellandspreadoutinalargeroastingpan.Roastfor20minutes.
Whiletheparsnipsarecooking,trimbothendsofthesweetpotatoes.Cutthem(with their skins)widthways in half, then each half into sixwedges. Add thepotatoestothepanwiththeparsnipsandonionandstirwell.Returntotheoventoroastforafurther40to50minutes.
Whenall thevegetablesarecookedthroughandhave takenonagoldencolor,stir in the halved tomatoes. Roast for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, whisktogetherthelemonjuice,capers,maplesyrup,mustard,remaining2tablespoonsoiland1/2teaspoonsalt.
Pourthedressingovertheroastedvegetablesassoonasyoutakethemoutoftheoven.Stirwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoning.Scatterthesesameseedsoverthevegetablesifusingandserveatthetableintheroastingpan.
Two-potatovindaloo
Here’sagreatrecipeyoucanmakeheapsofandkeepforafewdays.Itonlygetsbetter!Asalways,thickcoolyogurtwillmakeanexcellentcondiment.
Serves4
8cardamompods1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds1/2tspcloves1/4tspgroundturmeric1tspsweetpaprika1tspgroundcinnamon2tbspvegetableoil12shallots(about10ozintotal),chopped1/2tspbrownmustardseeds1/2tspfenugreekseeds25curryleaves2tbspchoppedfreshginger1freshredchile,finelychopped3ripetomatoes,peeledandroughlychopped1/4cupcidervinegar13/4cupswater1tbspsugarsalt21/2cupspeeledwaxypotatoes,cutinto1-inchdice2smallredbellpeppers,cut
into1-inchdice21/2 cupspeeledsweetpotatoes, cut into1-inchdicemintorcilantro leaves to
serve
Dry-roast thecardamompodsandcuminandcorianderseeds inasmall fryingpanovermediumheatuntil theybegin topop.Transfer toamortarandpestleand add the cloves. Work to a fine powder, removing and discarding thecardamom pods once the seeds are released. Add the turmeric, paprika andcinnamonandsetaside.
Heatuptheoilinalargeheavy-basedpot.Addtheshallotswiththemustardand
fenugreek seeds, and sauté on a medium-low heat for 8minutes, or until theshallotsbrown.Stirinthespicemix,curryleaves,gingerandchileandcookforafurther3minutes.Next,addthetomatoes,vinegar,water,sugarandsomesalt.Bringtotheboil,thenleavetosimmer,covered,for20minutes.
Add thepotatoesandbellpeppersandsimmerforanother20minutes.For thelaststage,addthesweetpotatoes.Makesureallthevegetablesarejustimmersedinthesauce(addmorewaterifneeded)andcontinuecooking,covered,forabout40minutes,oruntilthepotatoesaretender.
Remove the lid and leave to bubble away for about 10minutes to reduce andthickenthesauce.Servehot,withplainriceandgarnishedwithherbs.
Beet,yogurtandpreservedlemonrelish
Somewonderful beets are available in the summermonths: small, firm bulbs,soldwith the stalks and the leaves.Don’t throw out the leaves.Use them forsalads,orsautéwithalittleoliveoil,garlicandcarawayseedsandservewarmwithadollopofcrèmefraîche.Ifyoumanagetogetyoungbeetsyoumaywantto roast them in the oven, covered in foil, rather than boil them as describedbelow.Theyaremoreflavorfulthisway.
Thepreserved lemonrelishcanbeused in loadsofothercontexts.Trymixingwithcookedpotatotocreateasaladorservingalongsideoilyfish.
Serves4
2lbslargebeets4heapedtbspchoppeddill1smallredonion,verythinlysliced2/3cupGreekyogurt
Relish2yellowbellpeppers
3tbspoliveoil11/2tspcorianderseedsone14-ozcanchoppedplumtomatoes(withtheirjuices)2garliccloves,crushed1tspsugarsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedpreservedlemon2tbspeachchoppedparsleyandcilantro
Startbycookingthebeetswholeinplentyofboilingwaterfor1to2hours,oruntil theyare tender;checkbypiercingthemwithaknife.Allowthemtocooldowncompletelybeforeyoupeelthemandcutintowedges.
Tomaketherelish.Preheatthegrilltohigh.Useasmallknifetocutaroundthestems of the peppers; carefully pull out the stemswith the seeds and discard.Placethepeppersonagrillpanlinedwithfoilandgrillforupto30minutes,oruntil they are cooked inside and black on the outside, turning themover onceduringthecooking.Foldtheedgesofthefoiloverthepepperstoenclosethemcompletely,thenleavetocooldown.Peelthemandcutintostrips.
Pourtheoliveoil intoamediumsaucepan,heatupandfrythecorianderseedsfor 30 seconds.Add the tomatoes, garlic, sugar and some salt andpepper andsimmerfor15minutes.Addthepreservedlemonandcontinuesimmeringfor10minutes.Remove from theheat and stir in theherbsandyellowpepper strips.Allowtocooldowncompletely.
Whenyouarereadytofinishthesalad,transferthecoolbeetwedgestoamixingbowlandaddtherelish,dill,redonionandsomesaltandpepper.Stirwell,thentaste for seasoning. Just before you serve, add the yogurt and swirl it throughgently.Don’tstirtoomuch,soyougetawhiteandredmarbledeffectratherthanuniformpink.
Royalpotatosalad
JerseyRoyalpotatoesareattheirpeakinspringandearlysummer,whichisjust
aswellsincetheymakeastunningpicnicsalad.Thisoneisaposhed-upversionoftheordinaryspudsaladandit’sjustassatisfying.
Serves4-6
15quail’seggs1cuppetitepeas(frozen)13/4 lbs new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals, washed but not scrubbed 1 cup
basilleaves1/2cupparsleyleaves,plusalittleextrachoppedtogarnish1/3cuppinenuts1/2cupgratedParmesan(2oz)2garliccloves,crushed1cupoliveoil1/2tspwhitewinevinegarbunchofsorrel(ormint)leaves,finelyshreddedsaltandblackpepper
Placethequail’seggsinasaucepan,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmer for between 30 seconds (soft-boiled) and 2 minutes (hard-boiled),dependingonhowyoulikethemcooked.Refreshincoldwater,thenpeel.
Blanch the peas in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and refresh. Setaside.
In a separate pan of boilingwater, cook the potatoes for 15 to 20minutes, oruntiltheyaresoftbutnotfallingapart.
Whilethepotatoesarecookingplacethebasil,parsley,pinenuts,Parmesanandgarlicinafoodprocessorandblitztoapaste.Addtheoilandpulseuntilyougetarunnypesto.Pourintoalargebowl.
Drain thepotatoes, thencut in twoas soonasyoucanhandle them (theywillabsorbmoreflavorwhenhot).Addtothebowlandtosswiththepesto,vinegar,sorrelandpeas.Mixwell,evencrushingthepotatoesslightly,soalltheflavorsmix.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;begenerouswithpepper.
Cuttheeggsinhalfandgentlyfoldintothesalad.Garnishwithchoppedparsley.
Surprisetatin
Fillingatartwithpotatoesisarealtreatforpotatolovers.Serveitwithagreensalad and you don’t need much else. You can use commercial sun-driedtomatoesinoiltosaveyourselfmakingtheoven-driedtomatoes.
Serves4
11/2 cups cherry tomatoes 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling over thetomatoesandforthepansaltandblackpepper
1lbnewpotatoes(skinson)1largeonion,thinlysliced3tbspsugar2tspbutter3oreganosprigs5ozagedgoatcheese,sliced1puffpastrysheet,rolledthinly
Preheattheovento275°F.Halvethetomatoesandplacethemskin-sidedownonabaking sheet.Drizzle over someolive oil and sprinklewith salt andpepper.Placeintheoventodryfor45minutes.
Meanwhile,cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterfor25minutes.Drainandletcool.Trimoffabitofthetopandbottomofeachpotato,thencutinto1-inch-thickdiscs.
Sautétheonionwiththeoilandsomesaltforabout10minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.
Onceyou’vepreparedall thevegetables,brusha9-inchcakepanwithoilandlinethebottomwithacircleofparchmentpaper.Inasmallpancookthesugarandbutteronahighheat,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoon,togetasemi-darkcaramel.Pour thecaramelcarefully into thecakepanand tilt it tospreadthecaramelevenlyoverthebottom.Picktheoreganoleaves,tearandscatteron
thecaramel.
Lay the potato slices close together, cut-side down, on the bottomof the pan.Gentlypressonionandtomatoesintothegapsandsprinklegenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Spreadtheslicesofgoatcheeseevenlyoverthepotatoes.Cutapuffpastrydiscthatis1inchlargerindiameterthanthepan.Laythepastrylidoverthe tart filling and gently tuck the edges down around the potatoes inside thepan.(Atthisstageyoucanchillthetartforupto24hours.)Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the tart for 25 minutes, then reduce thetemperatureto350°Fandcontinuebakingfor15minutes,oruntilthepastryisthoroughly cooked. Remove from the oven and let settle for 2 minutes only.Hold an inverted plate firmly on top of the pan and carefully but briskly turnthemovertogether,thenliftoffthepan.Servethetarthotorwarm.
JerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil
Here’s a complex salad thatmakes awhole satisfyingmeal on its own. In itscenterthereisManouri,arichGreeksheep’scheesethatIuseoften.Ifyoucan’tgetit,usehalloumioranothersoftish,youngsheep’scheese.
Serves4
1lbJerusalemartichokesjuiceof2smalllemons4thymesprigs1tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper
Basiloil2cupsbasil(leavesandstalks)1/2cupflat-leafparsley(leavesandstalks)1garlicclove,peeledsalt2/3cupoliveoil
1/2cupoliveoil23/4cupscherrytomatoessalt14ozManouri cheese (orhalloumi), cut into1/2-inch-thick slices1Trevisoor
Belgianendive(redorwhitechicory),separatedintoleavesPreheat the oven to 425°F. Start with the artichokes. Squeeze the juice of 1lemonintoamediumbowlandaddabout21/4cupsofwater.Peeltheartichokeswith a vegetable peeler, slice them lengthways 3/8-inch thick and throwimmediatelyintotheacidulatedwatertopreventthemfromturningbrown.
Lift the artichokes from thewater into anovenproofdish.Add the thyme, thejuiceofthesecondlemon,3tablespoonswater,1tablespoonoliveoilandsomesalt and pepper.Mix everything together, then spread out the artichoke slices.Coverthedishwithfoilandputitintotheoventoroastfor40to45minutes,oruntiltheartichokesaretender.Takeoutoftheovenandkeepsomewherewarm.
Tomakethebasiloil.Putthebasil,parsley,garlicandapinchofsaltinafoodprocessorbowlandstartthemachine.Addtheoilinaslowtrickle.Whenitisallincorporatedyouwillhavearunnypaste.
Placealargefryingpanonhighheatandletitheatupwell.Add1tablespoonofthe oil and the tomatoes and char them quickly, shaking the pan to get evencoloring. After 3 to 4 minutes the tomatoes should be lightly blackened butretaintheirshape.Sprinklewithsalt,removefromthepanandaddthemtothecookedartichokes.
Whenyou are ready to serve,wipe cleanyour fryingpan andpour in enougholiveoiltocome2inchesupthesides.Setonamediumheatand,oncehot,frythe cheese slices for about 2minutes on each side, or until they turn a goodbrowncolor.Transfertopapertowels.
Arrange someendive leaveson servingdishes.Buildup the saladon topwithwarm cheese, Jerusalem artichokes, cherry tomatoes and more leaves. Finishwithadrizzleofbasiloilandserveatonce.
Sweetpotatowedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîche
Myright-handpersonwith thisbookwasClaudineBoulstridge.Claudine triedmost of the recipes diligently and came back with criticisms, insights andgeneral common-sensical observations. Despite her gracious nature I couldalwaysrelyonher to tellmeifsomethingI’dcomeupwithwasutterrubbish.To top it all, she is also very creative. This is one of her recipes and it’swonderful.
Serves4
3mediumsweetpotatoes(about2lbsintotal)4tbspoliveoil11/2tspgroundcoriander3/4tspfineseasalt1freshredchile,finelydiced1cupcilantro,leavespicked
Dippingsauce1/2lemongrassstalk3/4cupcrèmefraîchegratedzestandjuiceof2limes1inchfreshginger,peeledandgrated1/2tspfineseasaltPreheat the oven to 400°F.Wash the sweet potatoes but don’t peel them.Cuteachlengthwaysinhalf.Cutagainlengthwaysintoquartersandthenoncemoreinthesameway,soyouareleftintheendwitheightlongwedges.
Place them in a roasting pan that has been lined with parchment paper andbrushedlightlywithsomeoftheoliveoil.Brushthewedgeswiththeremainingoilandsprinklewithamixtureofthegroundcorianderandsalt.Roastforabout25minutes,oruntilthesweetpotatoistenderandgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldownalittle.(Thewedgescanbeeatenwarmoratroomtemperature.)Tomakethedippingsauce.Veryfinelychopthelemongrassorgrindfinelyinaspicegrinder.Whiskwithalloftheotheringredientsforthedippingsauceandsetaside.
When ready to serve, place thewedges on a large, flat serving dish. Sprinkle
withthedicedchileandcilantroleaves,andservewiththesauceontheside.
Parsnipdumplingsinbroth
OssiBurger,adearfriendwhoisfamousforherlavishmeals,alwayscomesupwith ingenious solutions for the one and only vegetarian in the bunch, herdaughter Noa. Ossi recently told me her trick for a deep-flavored vegetarianbroth - she adds prunes to it. I’m telling you, it works! You can keep thevegetables left over frommaking stock and serve themdeep-fried, or even astheyare,withmayonnaiseoraioli.
Serves4
Broth3tbspoliveoil3carrots,peeledandcutintosticks5celerystalks,cutintochunks1largeonion,quartered1/2celeriac,peeledandroughlychopped7garliccloves,peeled5thymesprigs2 small bunches of parsley, plus some chopped parsley to garnish 10 black
peppercorns3bayleaves8prunes
Dumplings1/2 lb russet potato (1 small), peeled and diced 11/2 cups peeled and diced
parsnips1garlicclove,peeled2tbspbutter1/2cupself-risingflour(seenote)1/3cupsemolina1eggsaltandwhitepepper
Tomake thebroth.Heatup theoliveoil ina largepot.Addall thevegetablesandgarlic and sauté for a fewminutesuntil they color lightly.Add theherbs,spices and prunes and cover with cold water. Simmer for up to 11/2 hours,skimmingthesurfaceandaddingmorewaterwhenneededsothatattheendof
thecookingyouareleftwithenoughliquidforfourportions.
Strain thebroth throughafinesieve intoacleanpan.Addsomeof thecarrotsandsomeceleryorceleriac,ifyoulike.Setasidereadyforreheating.
Tomakethedumplings.Cookthepotato,parsnipsandgarlicinplentyofboilingsaltedwateruntilsoft;drainwell.Wipedrythepaninwhichthevegetableswerecookedandputthembackinside.Addthebutterandsautéonmediumheatforafewminutestogetridoftheexcessmoisture.Whilehotmashthemwithapotatoricerormasher.Addtheflour,semolina,egg,andsomesaltandpepperandmixuntilincorporated.Chillfor30to60minutes,coveredwithplasticwrap.
Reheatthebrothandtasteforseasoning.Inanotherpan,bringsomesaltedwaterto a light simmer. Dip a teaspoon into the water and use it to spoon out thedumplingmixintothewater.Oncethedumplingscomeuptothesurface,leavetosimmerfor30seconds,thenremovefromthewaterwithaslottedspoon.
Ladle thehotbroth intobowls.Place thedumplings in thebroth,garnishwithparsleyandserveimmediately.
Note:Tomake self-rising flour, combine1 cup flour, 11/4 tsp bakingpowder,andapinchofsalt.
Seasonaltempura
Here’s the perfect solution for all your vegetables. This tempura isbreathtakinglydelicious.
Serves4
Dippingsauce6cardamompodsgratedzestandjuiceof4limes(about1/3cupjuice)
1freshgreenchile23/4cupscilantro(leavesandstalks)1tbspsugar4tbspsunfloweroil1/2tspsalt2tbspwater
About23/4 lbs (netweight) freshlypreparedvegetables (seemethod), such as:
Jerusalemartichoke,beet,broccoli,potato,sweetpotato,carrot,cauliflower,celeriac,babyleek,parsnip,kohlrabi,salsify,turnip1/2cupcornstarch,plusextra to coat the vegetables 1/2 cup self-rising flour 3/4 cup seltzer orsparklingwater2tspgrapeseedoil
1/4tspsaltchileflakestotaste3cupssunfloweroilfordeep-frying
Tomake the sauce. Break the cardamom pods using amortar and pestle andtransfertheseedstoafood-processorbowl.Discardthepods.Addtherestoftheingredientsandblitztogetasmooth,runnysauce.
Nextpreparethevegetables.Therearen’tanystrictrulesyoumustfollowbuttrytokeepthemchunkyandretainsomeofthenaturalshapeofthevegetablewherepossible-forexample,roundvegetablescutintothinwedgesandlongonesintobatonsorstrips.Hereareafewusefulsuggestions.Forcauliflowerandbroccoli,divide intomediumflorets; forbeets,peelandcut into1/8-inch-thickslicesorwedges;forpotatoesandsweetpotatoes,leavetheskinonandcutinto1/4-inch-thickslices;forJerusalemartichoke,carrot,parsnip,salsify,turnipandceleriac,peelandcut into3/8-inch-thicksticks,not tooperfect; forbaby leeks just trimoffthegreenends.
Before you start frying the vegetables, prepare a large plate lined with papertowels. Scatter some cornstarch for coating the vegetables on another plate.Placethebatteringredients-flour,cornstarch,sodawater,grapeseedoilandsalt-inabowlandwhiskwelltogetasmooth,runnymix.Addsomechileflakesforheat.
Pour thefryingoil intoamediumsaucepanandplaceonhighheat.Onceveryhot,turntheheatdowntomedium.Whenfryingthevegetables,theoilshouldbehotenoughsoyougetagoodsizzlebutnotsohotthattheyburn.
Deep-fryfourorfivepiecesofvegetableatatime.Takeeachpieceandtossitinthecornstarch.Shaketoremoveanyexcess,thendipinthebatter.Liftandshakeagain, thencarefullyput into theoil.As theyfry, turn thepiecesover tocolorevenly.Softvegetableslikeleekshouldtakeabout1minutetocook,harderoneslikebeets2minutesormore.Whenfrying,occasionallyremoveanyburntbitsthatfloatintheoil.Astheycook,transferthevegetablesontothepapertowelsandkeepwarm.
Whenallthevegetablesarecooked,servethematonce,withthedippingsauceontheside.
Sweetpotatocakes
WhenIwasastudentinTelAvivintheearly1990sIlivedinthetrendycenterof the city, aroundShenkinStreet, andused tohangabout in caféswithotherstudents who, just like me, talked about meaningful things with an air ofinnocentself-importance.Attheveryheartofthecenterwasasmallcafé,calledOrna andElla’s, that epitomized the scene; everyonewanted to be seen there.AndwhatsymbolizedOrnaandElla’swas their legendarysweetpotatocakes.Here’samodifiedversion.
Serves4
21/4lbspeeledsweetpotatoes,cutintolargechunksSauce
3tbspGreekyogurt3tbspsourcream2tbspoliveoil1tbsplemonjuice1tbspchoppedcilantrosaltandblackpepper
2tspsoysaucescant3/4cupall-purposeflour1tspsalt1/2tspsugar3tbspchoppedgreenonion1/2 tspfinelychoppedfreshredchile(ormore ifyouwant themhot)plentyof
butterforfrying
Steamthesweetpotatoesuntilcompletelysoft,thenleaveinacolandertodrainforatleastanhour.
Tomake the sauce.Whisk together all the sauce ingredients until smooth; setaside.
Once thesweetpotatoeshave lostmostof their liquid,place theminamixingbowl and add the rest of the ingredients (except the butter). Mix everythingtogether,preferablybyhand,untilthemixissmoothandeven;donotover-mix.Themixtureshouldbesticky;ifit’srunnyaddsomemoreflour.
Meltsomebutter inanon-stickfryingpan.Foreachcake,usea tablespoon toliftsomemixintothepanandflattenwiththebackofthespoontocreateanot-too-perfectdiscthatisroughly2inchesindiameterand3/8inchthick.Frythecakesonmediumheatforabout6minutesoneachside,oruntilyougetanicebrowncrust.Placeinbetweentwosheetsofpapertowelstosoakuptheexcessbutter.Servehotorwarm,withthesauceontheside.
FunnyOnions
Leekfritters
Myaunt,YonaAshkenazi,makesthemostheavenlyleekfritters,inspiredbyherlate husband Yaacov’s Turkish descent. I have to admit I haven’t eaten her
wonderful food for many years but these fritters in particular, and anotherversion made with spinach, remain distinct and sweet childhood memories. Ibelievemyleekfritterscomequiteclose.
Don’tbeputoffbythelonglistofingredients.Youarelikelytofindmanyoftheminyourkitchencupboard.Youalsodon’thavetomakethesauce.Asquirtoflemonorlimejuicewillsuffice.
Serves4
Sauce1/2cupGreekyogurt1/2cupsourcream2garliccloves,crushed2tbsplemonjuice3tbspoliveoil1/2tspsalt1/2cupparsleyleaves,chopped2cupscilantroleaves,chopped
3leeks(1lbintotal,trimmedweight)5shallots,finelychopped2/3cupoliveoil1freshredchile,seededandsliced1/2cupparsley(leavesandfinestalks),finely
chopped3/4tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin1/4tspgroundturmeric1/4tspgroundcinnamon1tspsugar1/2tspsalt1eggwhite3/4cupplus1tbspself-risingflour1tbspbakingpowder1egg2/3cupmilk41/2tbspunsaltedbutter,meltedTomakethesauce.Blitzalltheingredientstogetherinafoodprocessoruntilauniformgreen.Setasideforlater.
Cuttheleeksintoscant1-inch-thickslices;rinseanddraindry.Sautétheleeksandshallotsinapanwithhalftheoilonmediumheatforabout15minutes,oruntilsoft.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthechile,parsley,spices,sugarandsalt.Allowtocooldown.
Whisktheeggwhitetosoftpeaksandfolditintothevegetables.Inanotherbowlmix together the flour, baking powder, whole egg, milk and butter to form abatter.Gentlymixitintotheeggwhiteandvegetablemixture.
Put 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in a large frying pan and place over amediumheat.Spoonabouthalf of thevegetablemixture into thepan tomakefourlargefritters.Frythemfor2to3minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenandcrisp. Remove to paper towels and keep warm. Continue making the fritters,addingmore oil as needed.You should end upwith about eight large fritters.Servewarm,withthesauceonthesideordrizzledover.
Caramelizedgarlictart
“I think this is the most delicious recipe in the world!” wrote Claudine aftertryingitoutforme.WhatelsecanIadd?
Serves8
13ozpuffpastry3mediumheadsofgarlic,clovesseparatedandpeeled1tbspoliveoil1tspbalsamicvinegar1cupwater3/4tbspsugar1tspchoppedrosemary1tspchoppedthyme,plusafewwholesprigstofinishsalt41/2 oz soft, creamy goat cheese (such as chèvre) 41/2 oz hard, mature goat
cheese(suchasgoatgouda)2eggs61/2tbspheavycream61/2tbspcrèmefraîcheblackpepper
Havereadyashallow,loose-bottomed,11-inchflutedtartpan.Rolloutthepuffpastry into a circle thatwill line the bottom and sides of the pan, plus a littleextra.Line thepanwith thepastry.Placea largecircleofwaxedpaperon thebottomandfillupwithpieweightsordriedbeans.Leavetorestinthefridgeforabout20minutes.
Preheattheovento350°F.Placethetartshellintheovenandblindbakefor20minutes.Removetheweightsandpaper,thenbakefor5to10minutesmore,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Setaside.Leavetheovenon.
While the tartshell isbaking,make thecaramelizedgarlic.Put thecloves inasmallsaucepanandcoverwithplentyofwater.Bringtoasimmerandblanchfor3minutes,thendrainwell.Drythesaucepan,returntheclovestoitandaddtheolive oil. Fry the garlic cloves on high heat for 2minutes. Add the balsamicvinegarandwaterandbringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor10minutes.Addthesugar,rosemary,choppedthymeand1/4 teaspoonsalt.Continuesimmeringonamediumflamefor10minutes,oruntilmostoftheliquidhasevaporatedand
thegarlicclovesarecoatedinadarkcaramelsyrup.Setaside.
Toassemblethetart,breakbothtypesofgoatcheeseintopiecesandscatter inthetartshell.Spoonthegarlicclovesandsyrupevenlyoverthecheese.Inajugwhisktogethertheeggs,cream,crèmefraîche,1/2teaspoonsaltandsomeblackpepper.Pour this custardover the tart filling to fill thegaps,making sure thatyoucanstillseethegarlicandcheeseoverthesurface.
Reducetheoventemperatureto325°Fandplacethetartinside.Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthetartfillinghassetandthetopisgoldenbrown.Removefrom theoven and leave to cool a little.Then takeout of pan, trim thepastryedge if needed, lay a few sprigs of thyme on top and serve warm (it reheatswell!)withacrispsalad.
Stuffedonions
This is anunusual yet delectablemain coursewhere the flavorful filling takescenterstage.Considercreatingavariationbyspooningoveralighttomatosaucebeforebakingandsprinklingwithcheesetowardtheend.ServetheonionswarmwithaLettuceSalad.Idesperatelyurgeyounottowastetheflavoredstockandonioncores;cookthemtogethertomakeabaseforaheartyonionsoup.
Serves4
butterforgreasingthedish21/4cupsvegetablestock11/2cupswhitewine4largeonions3smalltomatoes22/3cupsfreshwhitebreadcrumbs31/4ozfeta,crumbled11/3cupsparsleyleaves(looselypacked),finelychopped
3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2garliccloves,crushed3greenonions,thinlysliced3/4tspsaltblackpepper
Preheattheovento350°F.Havereadyasmallbutteredovenproofdish.
Place the stock and white wine in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil.Meanwhile, trim 1/4 inch off the top and bottom of the onions. Cut themlengthways in half and remove the brown skin. Gently remove most of theinsides (keep these for anotheruse), retaining twoor threeof theouter layers.Carefully separate the outer layers from each other and place them in thesimmeringstock,afewatatime.Cookfor3to4minutes,oruntil justtender.Drainwellandcoolslightly.Keepthestock.
Useacoarsecheesegratertogratethetomatoes(you’llbeleftwithmostoftheskin inyourhand;discard it).Place thegrated tomato ina largebowlandaddthe breadcrumbs, feta, parsley, olive oil, garlic, green onions, salt and somepepper.
Filleachonionlayergenerouslywithstuffing.Pullthesidestogethersoyouendup with a fat cigar shape. Place the stuffed onions, seam-side down, in thebuttereddishandpouroverabout1/3cupofthereservedstock,justtocoverthebottomof thedish.Bakefor45 to50minutes,oruntil theonionsaresoftandlightly colored and the stuffing is bubbling; add more stock if they drycompletely before the end of the cooking process. Drizzle with oil and servewarm.
Friedleeks
Thesharpandsweetpickledredpeppersusedherearethesortofthingyoucanalwayskeepinthefridge,readytoaddtosalads,roastedvegetablesorsalsasforfish.
Serves4asastarter
1redbellpepper6tbspsugar1cupwater61/2tbspcidervinegar10pinkpeppercorns1/2tspcorianderseeds3cardamompods,crushedsalt5mediumleeks3/4cupcrèmefraîche11/2tbspchoppedcapers2greenonions,slicedthinlyatan
angle,plusextratogarnish1tbsplemonjuice11/2tbspoliveoilwhitepepper2/3cupsunfloweroil1/2cuppanko1egg,beaten
Cleanthepepperandcut it into1/4-inch-thickstrips.Placeinasmallsaucepanandaddthesugar,water,vinegar,peppercorns,corianderseeds,cardamomandsome salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes, or until thepepperiscooked.Setasidetocooldown.
Meanwhile, remove and discard the hard green leaves from the leeks and cutthem into roughly 1-inch-long segments. Cook in boiling salted water for 15minutes,oruntilsemi-soft.Drainandletdry.
Whileyouwaitforthevegetables,stirtogetherthecrèmefraîche,capers,greenonions, lemon juice, olive oil and some salt and pepper. Taste and adjust theseasoning.
Heatupthesunfloweroilinamediumsaucepan.Placethepankoandeggintwosmallseparateplatesandseasonwithsalt.Takethecookedleeksandrollthemfirst in the egg and then inpanko to coat all over.Fry them in thehot oil forabout30secondsoneachside;dothisinafewbatchessoyoudon’tcrowdtheminthepan.Oncetheyareniceandgolden,transfertheleekstopapertowels.
Serveaboutfivechunksofhotleeksperportion,toppedwithagooddollopofthecrèmefraîchesauce.Liftthestripsofredpepperoutofthepan,shakeawaymost of the syrup and place them over the leeks (the coriander seeds andpeppercornsarefinetoo).Garnishwithgreenonionandserveatonce.
Blackpeppertofu
Youwilldefinitelysurpriseyourselfwith thisone. It isanextremelydeliciousdishthat’squickandstraight-forwardtomake,butlooksasifit’sbeenpreparedatatopChineserestaurant.Itisfiery,bothfromthechilesandtheblackpepper;you canmoderate this by reducing their quantity a little.However, thewholepointisspicinesssodon’tgotoofar.
Serves4
13/4lbsfirmtofuvegetableoilforfryingcornstarchtodustthetofu11tbspbutter12 small shallots (12 oz in total), thinly sliced 8 fresh red chiles (fairlymild
ones),thinlysliced12garliccloves,crushed3tbspchoppedfreshginger3tbspsweetsoysauce(kecapmanis)3tbsplightsoysauce4tspdarksoysauce2tbspsugar5 tbsp coarsely crushed black peppercorns (use amortar and pestle or a spice
grinder)16smallandthingreenonions,cutinto11/4-inchsegmentsStartwiththetofu.Pourenoughoil intoa largefryingpanorwoktocome1/4inchupthesidesandheat.Cutthetofuintolargecubes,about1x1inch.Tosstheminsomecornstarchandshakeofftheexcess,thenaddtothehotoil.(You’llneedtofrythetofupiecesinafewbatchessotheydon’tstewinthepan.)Fry,turning themaround as yougo, until they are golden all over andhave a thincrust.Astheyarecooked,transferthemontopapertowels.
Remove theoil andany sediment from thepan, thenput thebutter inside andmeltit.Addtheshallots,chiles,garlicandginger.Sautéonlowtomediumheatfor about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the ingredients have turnedshinyandaretotallysoft.Next,addthesoysaucesandsugarandstir,thenaddthecrushedblackpepper.
Addthe tofu towarmitup in thesauceforaboutaminute.Finally,stir in the
greenonions.Servehot,withsteamedrice.
Garlicsoupandharissa
Thissoupissweetlydeliciousandrelativelyeasytoprepare,ifyoudon’tmindabit of garlic peeling. The harissa adds work but you could substitute a goodcommercialvariety.Still, thisonemakesafantasticcondimenttokeepinyourfridgeandaddtoroastedeggplant,vegetablestewsandmanyriceandcouscousdishes.
Serves4
Harissa1redbellpepper1/4tspcorianderseeds1/4tspcuminseeds1/4tspcarawayseeds1/2tbspoliveoil
1smallredonion,roughlychopped3garliccloves,roughlychopped2medium-hotfreshredchiles,seededandroughlychopped1/2tbsptomatopaste
2tbsplemonjuice2to3tspcoarseseasalt
4mediumshallots,finelychopped3celerystalks,finelydiced3tbspbutter2tbspoliveoil25mediumgarliccloves,finelysliced2tspchoppedfreshginger1tspfinelychoppedthyme1cupwhitewinegenerouspinchofsaffronthreads4bayleaves1 quart good-quality vegetable stock 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt 4 tbsp roughly
choppedparsleyroughlychoppedcilantroGreekyogurt(optional)
Tomaketheharissa.Preheatthegrilltohigh,thengrillthebellpepperfor15to20minutes,oruntilblackenedallover.Transfertoabowl,coveritwithplastic
wrapandallowtocool.Thenpeelthepepperanddiscarditsseeds.
Place a frying pan on lowheat and lightly dry-roast the coriander, cumin andcarawayseedsfor2minutes.Removethemtoamortaranduseapestletogrindtoapowder.
Addtheoliveoiltothefryingpanandheat,thenfrytheonion,garlicandchilesonmediumheatfor6to8minutes,toadarksmokycolor.Coolslightly,thentipinto a blender or a food processor. Add the remaining harissa ingredients,including the grilled pepper and ground spices, and blitz together to make apaste.Setaside.
Gentlyfrytheshallotsandcelerywiththebutterandoilforabout10minutes,oruntilsoftandtranslucent.Addthegarlicandcookforafurther5minutes.Stirinthegingerandthyme.Pourinthewineandleavetosimmerforafewminutes,thenaddthesaffron,bayleaves,stockandsalt.Simmerforabout10minutes.
Removethebayleavesandaddtheparsley.Blitzwithanimmersionblender(orregular blender) or a food processor.Do not blend to a complete purée; keepsomebitsofvegetablefortexture.
Dividethesoupamongshallowbowls.Swirlinsomeharissaandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.FinishwithadollopofGreekyogurt,ifyoulike.
Mushrooms
Mushroomragoutwithpoachedduckegg
Hereismyidealsolaceforagloomywinternight,evenwithouttheeggifyouwanttokeepitsimpler.Ifyoucangetfreshporcini(alsocalledceps),available
during the autumnmonths, grab themwith both hands and use as part of themixedfreshmushroomshere.
Serves4
1/2ozdriedporcinimushrooms21/2cupswater11/4lbsmixedfreshmushrooms(wildorcultivated)3/4lbsourdoughbread,crustsremoved61/2tbspoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed
1mediumonion,sliced1mediumcarrot,peeledandsliced3celerystalks,sliced1/2cupwhitewine3thymesprigssalt4duckeggsvinegarforpoaching1/2cupsourcream2tbspchoppedtarragon2tbspchoppedparsleyblackpeppertruffleoil(oroliveoilifyouprefer)
Before you start, put the dried porcini to soak in 1 cup of the water for 30minutes.Brushyourfreshmushroomstoremoveanysoil,thencutuplargeonesor divide into clusters so youhave a selectionofwholemushrooms and largechunks.Preheattheovento400°F.
Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. Toss themwith 2 tablespoons of the oil, thegarlicandsalt.Spreadoutonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilbrown.
Next,pour1tablespoonofoilintoamedium-sizedheavypanandheatwellovermedium-high heat. Add some of the fresh mushrooms and leave for 1 to 2minutes,withoutstirring.Don’tcrowdthemushroomsin thepan.Oncelightlybrowned,turnthemovertocookforanotherminute.Removefromthepanandcontinuewithmorebatches,addingoilasneeded.Onceallthemushroomshavebeen removed from the pan, add another tablespoon of oil and throw in the
onion,carrotandcelery.Sautéonmediumheatfor5minutes,withoutbrowning.Addthewineandletitbubbleawayforaminute.
Lift theporcinioutof thesoaking liquid,squeezingout theexcess liquid.Addthe soaking liquid to the pan, leaving behind any grit in the bowl. Add theremaining11/2cupsofwater,thethymeandalittlesalt,thensimmergentlyforabout 20minutes, or until you are leftwith about 1 cup of liquid. Strain thisstockanddiscardthevegetables;returnthestocktothepanandsetitaside.
Topoachtheeggs,fillashallowsaucepanwithenoughwaterforawholeeggtocookin.Addasplashofvinegarandbringtoarapidboil.Carefullybreakaneggintoasmallcupandgentlypour it intotheboilingwater.Immediatelyremovethepanfromtheheatandsetitaside.After6minutestheeggshouldbepoachedtoperfection.Liftitoutofthepanandintoabowlofwarmwater.Oncealltheeggsaredone,drythemonpapertowels.
While you are poaching the final egg, heat up the stock and add all themushrooms, the sour cream, most of the chopped herbs (reserving some togarnish)andsaltandpepper to taste.Assoonas themushroomsarehot,placeaboutfourcroutonsineachservingdishandtopwithmushrooms.Addanegg,theremainingherbs,adrizzleoftruffleoilandsomeblackpepper.
Bánhxèo
In2007IvisitedHanoiwithmyfriend,AlexMeitlis,andfoundmyselfsquattinginthedingiestoffamily-runstreetkitchens,experiencingthebestfoodI’veevertasted.Thefreshnessofthevegetablesandherbswasmind-blowing.
Here’s a vegetarian adaptation of a traditional Vietnamese pancake, normallyconsistingof fattyporkandprawns. Iaddedsweetsoy to thedippingsauce tomakeupforomittingtheubiquitousVietnamesefishsauce,nuocmam.
Serves4
11/3cupsriceflour1smallegg1/2tspsalt1tspgroundturmeric13/4cupscannedcoconutmilkalittlebitofsunfloweroil
Sauce21/2tbsplimejuice11/2tbsptoastedsesameoil1tbspbrownsugar1tbspricewinevinegar1tbspsweetsoysauce(kecapmanis)2tspgratedfreshginger1freshredchile,finelychopped1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspsaltFilling1largecarrot,peeled1daikonradish,peeled4greenonions1freshgreenchile11/2cupssnowpeas1cuplooselypackedcilantroleaves2/3cuplooselypackedThaibasilleaves1/4cuplooselypackedmintleaves1cupmungbeansprouts1cupenokimushrooms
Blend the rice flour, egg, salt and turmeric in a large bowl. Slowly add thecoconut milk, whisking well to avoid any lumps. You want to get a thinnishpancakebatterwith theconsistencyof lightcream.Addmorecoconutmilkorwater,ifnecessary(youmayneedtoaddsomemorelater,whenyouarecookingthepancakes,becausethebattertendstothicken).Setasidetorest.
Tomakethesauce.Justwhisktogetheralltheingredients,adjustingtheamountofchiletoyourliking.
Tomakethefilling.Shredthecarrotanddaikonthinly.Slicethegreenonionsonanangle,andcut thegreenchileandsnowpeas into long, thinstrips.Pick theherbleaves.Setallthepreparedvegetablesandherbsasidewiththesproutsandmushrooms.
Whenyouarereadytoservethepancakes,heatupalargenon-stickfryingpanthat is roughly9 inches indiameter,making sure itdoesn’tget extremelyhot.Addatinyamountofsunfloweroil.
Pourinaboutone-quarterofthebatterandswirlaroundtocoatthebottomofthepan.Theedgesofthepancakecanbethinnerthanthecenterandturncrisp,oritcan all have the same thickness like a regular pancake.Once the underside isgoldenbrown,turnthepancakeoverandcooktheotherside.Removefromthepanandkeepwarmwhileyoumaketheotherthreepancakes.
Placeawarmpancakeoneachservingplateandpilevegetablesandherbsoveronehalfofit.Drizzlethevegetableswithsomesauceandfoldtheotherhalfofthe pancake over them. Spoon some more sauce on top and serve, with anyremainingsauceontheside.
StuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggio
I can easily imagine someonewriting a Ph.D. thesis on different cheeses andhowtheymelt.Hereareafewofmymodestobservations:youngvarieties,suchasfontinaormozzarella,meltatarelativelylowtemperatureandthereforedon’t“break” but stay creamy and smooth; other, more mature cheeses, such asGruyèreandsomecheddars,arewonderfullypungentbuttendtosplitandturngritty. This is why I often choose Taleggio, a wonderfully soft cow’s milkvarietyfromnorthernItaly.Ithasthestrongaromaofamaturecheeseandmeltsevenlyandsmoothly.
Serves4asastarter
4largeportobellos(oranothersimilarmushroom),stalksremoved6tbspoliveoil
saltandblackpepper1smallonion,finelydiced1celerystalk,finelydiced2cupsfinelychoppedsun-driedtomatoes2garliccloves,crushed1/2cupgratedParmesan1tbspchoppedtarragonleaves4tbspcoarselyshreddedbasilleaves31/2ozTaleggio,slicedPreheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Placethemushrooms, stalk-sideup,on thebaking sheet anddrizzleover a littleoil andsomesaltandpepper.Putintotheovenandroastforabout15minutes,oruntilthemushroomsbegintosoften.
Meanwhile,heatup2 tablespoonsof theoil ina sautépan,add theonionandceleryandcookonlowheatfor5to10minutes,oruntilthevegetablesaresoftbut not brown; stir every few minutes during cooking. Add the sun-driedtomatoesandgarlicandcookforafewmoreminutes.Removefromtheheatandleavetocooldown.
Once cool, add the Parmesan, tarragon and half the basil to the mixture and
seasonwithpepper. (Youcanadda littlebitof saltbutnot toomuchbecauseTaleggioisverysalty.)PileupthefillingonthewholemushroomsandtopwiththeTaleggioslices.Returntotheovenandcookforabout10minutes,oruntilthecheesemeltsandthemushroomsaretender.
Transferthemushroomstoservingplatesanddrizzlewithoil.Garnishwiththeremainingbasilandserverightaway,withagreensalad.
Marinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurt
Thisdishcanworkinendlesscontexts:withafewelegantendiveleavesstirredthrough,itwillmakeasubstantialvegetarianmaincourse;asitisyoucanputitin a Tupperware container and take it on a picnic; or offer it alongside othersaladsaspartofasmartspringbuffet.
Shimeji are the clustered small mushrooms that you often get in “exotic”selections.
Serves4
1/3cupoliveoil1tbspwhitewinevinegar1tbspmaplesyrupjuiceof2mediumlemonssaltandblackpepper3cupsslicedbuttonmushrooms2cupsbeechmushrooms,largebaseremoved1/2cupGreekyogurt21/2tbsptahini1smallgarlicclove,crushed3cupsshelledfavabeans(frozenorfresh)2/3cupwalnuts,toastedandroughly
chopped1/2tspgroundcumin1tbspchoppeddill1tbspchoppedoregano
Startbymarinatingthemushrooms.Whisktogethertheoliveoil,vinegar,maplesyrup,halfthelemonjuice,about1/2teaspoonsaltandsomeblackpepper.Pourthisoverthemixedmushroomsinalargebowlandtosswell,makingsureallthemushroomsarecoated.Leavethemtomarinateforanhour.
While you wait, mix together in a small bowl the yogurt, tahini, garlic,remaininglemonjuiceand1/2teaspoonsalt.Useaforkorasmallwhisktowhipeverything together toa lightpaste. (Youcanrefrigerate thissauce forup toaday.)Next,pourplentyofboilingwateroverthefavabeansinabowlandleavefora
minute,thendrainwellandleavetocooldown.Nowsqueezeeachbeangentlytoremovetheskinanddiscardit (ifyoudon’tmindtheskinyoucanskipthisstage).
Addthebeans,walnutsandcumintothemarinatedmushroomsandstirtomix.Tasteandadjust theseasoning.Serve themushrooms insmallbowlsorplates,eachportiontoppedwithadollopofthicktahinisauceandsprinkledwithherbs.
Mushroomlasagne
IttooktheaidofCook’sIllustrated,amagazineforfoodnerdslikeme,toenableme tocrack thesecret foraperfectcheesy lasagne.Serve thiswithanarugulaandtomatosalad.
Serves6-8
11/4ozdriedporcinimushrooms13/4cupslukewarmwater5tbspunsaltedbutter1tbspthymeleaves13/4lbsmixedfreshmushrooms,slicediflarge2tbspchoppedtarragon4tbspchoppedparsleysaltandwhitepepper5tbspunsaltedbutter1smallshallot,choppedscant1/2cupall-purposeflour21/3cupsmilk13flozricotta1largeegg5ozfeta,crumbled6ozGruyère,grated1lbdriedspinachlasagne5ozfontinacheese(ormozzarella),grated1/2cupgratedParmesanPreheattheovento350°F.Covertheporciniwiththelukewarmwaterandleavetosoakfor5minutes.Draininasievesetoverabowl,squeezingthemushroomstoremovealltheliquid;reservetheliquid.
Meltthebutterinalargeheavy-basedsaucepan.Whenfoamingaddthethyme,porciniandfreshmushrooms.Cookfor4minutes,oruntilthemushroomshavesoftenedandexudedsomeoftheirliquid,stirringoccasionally.Offtheheat,stirin the tarragon, parsley and some salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and setaside.
Usethesamepantomakeabéchamel.Putthebutterandshallotinthepanandcookonmediumheat foraboutaminute.Addtheflourandcontinuecooking,stirring constantly, for 2minutes; themixwill turn into a paste but shouldn’tcolormuch.Graduallywhiskinthemilkandporcinisoakingliquid,leavinganygrit in the bowl. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue whisking until boiling.Simmeronlowheat,stirringconstantly,forabout10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickish.Removefromtheheat.
Inasmallbowlmixtogether thericottaandegg, thenfold in3 tablespoonsofthe béchamel and the feta.Add theGruyère to the remaining béchamel in thepanandstirwelltogetyourmainsauce.
Pourboilingwateroverthelasagnenoodles(dothisafewatatimesotheydon’tsticktogether)andsoakfor2minutes;removeanddrythemonateatowel.
To assemble the lasagne, pour one-fifth of the sauce over the bottom of anovenproofdishthatisabout10x14inches.Coverwithlasagnenoodles.Spreadone-quarterofthericottamixontop,scatteroverone-quarterofthemushroomsandsprinklewithone-quarterofthefontina.Makethreemorelayersinthesameway,thenfinishwithalayerofpastacoveredwithsauce.
SprinkletheParmesanontopandcoverlooselywithfoil(don’tlayitdirectlyonthesurfaceof the lasagne).Bakefor40minutes,oruntil thesauceisbubblingaroundthesides.Liftoffthefoilandbakeforafurther10minutes,oruntilthetopturnsgolden.Removefromtheovenandleavetorestfor10minutesbeforeserving.
Wildmushroomparcel
Cooking in a parcel, albeit a tad old-fashioned, is actually both simple andexciting. There is always an element of suspensewhen diners open their ownlittle packet to a whiff of aromatic steam. Loads of herbs and tender babyvegetablesaretheperfectingredientsforthismethod,asaremanykindsoffish.
Serve themushroomswith abowlof steamedwhite rice sprinkledwith saltedandtoastedpinenutsorpumpkinseeds.
Serves4
31/2 cups mixed wild mushrooms 31/2 cups baby button mushrooms 5 babypotatoes,cooked(skinon)
4garliccloves,crushed8tbspchoppedchervil4tbspchoppedtarragon4tbspoliveoil8tbspheavycream2tbspRicard,Pernodorotheranise-flavoredliquorsaltandblackpepper
Preheattheovento400°F.Cutfoursquaresheetsofparchmentpaper14incheslongandwide.
Wipethemushroomscleanusingawetclothoralittlebrush.Leavethemwholeorcutthemintolargepieces,dependingontheirsize.Cutthepotatoesinto3/8-inch-thickslices.
Inalargebowl,gentlytosstogetheralloftheingredientsusingyourhands.Takecarenottobreakthemushrooms.Tasteandadjusttheamountofsaltandpepper.
Divide the mix between the paper sheets. Lift the edges and scrunch themtogether to create tight bundles, then secure with ovenproof string. Lift theparcelsontoabakingsheet.
Place in the oven to cook for 17 minutes. Take out and leave to settle for 1
minute. Serve the parcels sealed, allowing the diners to open them upthemselves.
ZucchiniandOtherSquashes
Halloweensoufflés
TointroducethisdishIrepriseafamoussupermarket’sslogan:“Trysomethingscarytoday.”ByscaryImeanasoufflé,whichissomanypeople’sno-gozone.
I’vecalledthemHalloweensoufflésastheyaremadewithpumpkin.It’sbestnottouseoneofthosehugepumpkinsdestinedtobejack-o’-lanternsastheirfleshcanbewatery.
The soufflé base mixture, minus the egg whites, can be prepared a day inadvance and kept in the fridge. Just bring it back to room temperature beforefinishing the recipe. These soufflés look particularly striking in shallow soupbowls.Ifyouhaveanovenproofset,tryusingthem.
Serves6inramekinsasastarter,or4insoupbowls
one3/4-lbpumpkin(skinon)oliveoil3/4tspsoftbrownsugarsalt1/4 cup whole hazelnuts (skin on) 4 tbsp unsalted butter; 2 tbsp, melted, for
greasing21/2tbspall-purposeflour1cupplus1tbspmilk5eggs,separated,plusoneeggwhite1/4tspchileflakes1tbspchoppedmarjoram21/2ozstronggoatcheese,grated1/3cupsourcream2tbspchoppedchives
Preheat the oven to 350°F.Depending on the size of the pumpkin, cut it intoquarters or eighths. Scoop out and discard the seeds and fibers. Place thepumpkin pieces skin-side down in a shallow roasting tin.Drizzle over a littleoliveoilandsprinklewith thebrownsugarand1/2 teaspoonsalt.Roast for45minutes,oruntilthefleshistender.Leavetocoolforawhile,thenscoopouttheflesh and blitz it to a purée or mash well. You need exactly 41/4 oz for thesoufflés.
Turnuptheovento400°Fandplaceabakingsheetonthetopshelf.Thiswillhelpwiththerisingwhenthesoufflésaresetonit.Puttheramekinsorbowlsinthefridgetochillwell.
Blitz the hazelnuts in a blender or food processor until powdery. Brush the
chilledramekinsgenerouslywiththemeltedbutter,thenputinthehazelnutsandturn the dishes to coat the bottom and sides. Tip out the excess nuts and setaside.
Meltthe2tbspbutterinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Stirintheflourand cook for aminute.Gradually add themilk, stirringwith awooden spoonuntilthesauceisthickandstartstobubble.Inalargebowlmixtogetherthe41/4ozpumpkin,eggyolks,chileflakes,marjoram,goatcheeseand3/4teaspoonsalt.Addthesauceandstiruntilsmooth.
Place the eggwhites in a large, clean, stainless steel or glass bowl andwhiskuntiltheyarestiffbutnotdry.Addalittleoftheeggwhitestothepumpkinbaseandstir to loosen, thenfold in theremainingeggwhiteswitha large,stainlesssteelspoon,takingcaretoretainasmuchairaspossible.
Filltheramekinsorbowlsupto3/8inchfromthetop.Placethesoufflésintheoven,ontheheatedbakingsheet,andbakefor10to14minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandrisenwell.
While they are in the oven, mix the sour cream with the chives. Serve thesoufflésatonce,withthesourcreamontheside.
Roastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchile
ThisdishisthemostrefreshingwayIcanthinkoftostartameal.
Serves4-6
2limesMaldonseasalt4tablespoonsoliveoil1mediumbutternutsquash(about2lbs)2tbspcardamompods
1tspgroundallspice1/2cupGreekyogurt21/2tbsptahini1tbsplimejuice1greenchile,thinlysliced2/3cuppickedcilantroleaves
Preheattheovento400°F.Trimoffthelimes’topsandbasesusingasmallsharpknife.Standeachlimeonachoppingboardandcutdownthesidesofthefruit,followingitsnaturalcurves,toremovetheskinandwhitepith.Quarterthelimesfrom top tobottom,andcuteachquarter into thin slices, about1/8 inch thick.Placetheminasmallbowl,sprinklewithalittlesalt,drizzlewith1tablespoonoftheoliveoil,stirandsetaside.
Next, cut the squash in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds and discard.Cuteachhalf, top tobottom, into3/8-inch-thickslicesand lay themoutona largebakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.
Placethecardamompodsinamortarandworkwithapestletogettheseedsoutofthepods.Discardthepodsandworktheseedstoaroughpowder.Transfertoasmallbowl,add theallspiceand theremaining3 tablespoonsofoil,stirwelland brush thismixture over the butternut slices. Sprinkle over a little salt andplaceintheovenfor15minutesoruntiltenderwhentestedwiththepointofaknife.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Peelofftheskin,orleaveonifyouprefer.
Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyogurt,tahini,limejuice,2tablespoonsofwaterand a pinchof salt.The sauce should be thick but runny enough to pour; addmorewaterifnecessary.
Toserve,arrangethecooledbutternutslicesonaservingplatteranddrizzlewiththeyogurtsauce.Spoonoverthelimeslicesandtheirjuicesandscatterthechileslicesoverthetop.Garnishwiththecilantroandserve.
“Mixedgrill”withparsleyoil
Char-grillingseasonalvegetablesthewayweoftendoatOttolenghimakesthemtastealmostmeatyduetothestrongaromasofsmokeandthemanyburntbits.Ijust love it. You don’t have to stick to my choice of vegetables. There arecountless alternatives, such as asparagus, rutabaga, carrot, cauliflower, daikon,beetsandsoon.
Chooseasoftcheesethatwon’tdisintegrateormeltonthegrill,suchasGreekmanouriorCypriotanari(handleitwithcare).TheyareavailablefromMiddleEastern grocers (see Dates and Turkish Sheep’s Cheese, . Alternatively, usehalloumi,buteatitwhileit’sstillwarm,beforeitturnsrubbery.
Serves4generously
Parsleyoil3/4cupflat-leafparsley(leavesandsoftstalks)1/3cupoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed11/2tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper
1mediumzucchini1kohlrabi1 small eggplant (or 1/2medium) 41/2 ozManouri or anari cheese 3 to 4 tbsp
oliveoil
Tomaketheparsleyoil.Blitztheparsleyinafoodprocessorwiththeoil,garlic,lemonjuiceandsomesaltandpepper.Youwillgetabrightgreen,runnysauce.Setitaside.
Place a heavy ridged griddle pan on a high heat and leave it until very hot.Preheattheovento375°F.
Cut the zucchini on a slight angle into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Peel the kohlrabiwithasharpknife;cutlengthwaysinhalf, theninto3/8-inch-thickslices.Slice
the eggplant 1/4 inch thick. Slice the cheese 1/4 inch thick. Keeping all theingredientsseparate,tosstheminalittlebitofoliveoil(theeggplantwillneedmuchmoreoilasitreadilysoaksitup)andsprinklewithsalt.
Char-grill thevegetablesandcheese, inbatches,until just tenderandwithnicecharmarksonbothsides-theywilltakebetween1minute(thezucchini)and6minutes(theeggplant).Usetongsandaspatulatoturnthem.Whendoneremovethemtoamixingbowl,keepingthecheeseseparate.Transfertheeggplanttothehotoventofinishcookingthrough,5to10minutesmore.
Pour theparsleyoilover thehotvegetablesandstirgently, then let themcooldowncompletelyoruntilwarm.
Before serving, taste and adjust the seasoning. Spread the vegetables and thecheeseonaplatterandserve.
Stuffedzucchini
This is a bastardized version of a Turkish original. Serve it cold, just abovefridgetemperature,withgoat’s-milkyogurt.
Serves6asastarter
1mediumonion,finelychopped1tbspoliveoil2/3cupshort-grainrice2tbspcurrants1tbsppinenuts2tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/2tspdriedmint1/2tspgroundallspice1/4tspgroundcinnamon1/4tspground
cloves3tbsplemonjuice3mediumzucchini3/4cupboilingwater11/2tbspsugar
saltandblackpepper
Sauté the onion in the oil until softened. Add the rice, currants, pine nuts,parsley,mint,spicesandhalfthelemonjuice.Continuecookingonlowheatfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.
Halve the zucchini lengthways along the center and use a spoon to scoop outsomeofthefleshtomake“boats.”Placetheminashallowsaucepanthatislargeenoughtoaccommodatethemsidebyside.Fillthemwiththericestuffing.Pourthe boiling water, remaining lemon juice, sugar and some salt around thezucchini.Theliquidshouldnotcomeashighasthefilling.
Simmer,covered,for30to40minutes,bastingthefillingoccasionallywiththecookingjuices.Thezucchiniarereadywhenthericeisaldenteandalmostallthejuiceshaveevaporated.Allowtocooldowncompletelybeforerefrigerating.Garnishwithchoppedparsleywhenserving.
Zucchiniandhazelnutsalad
Freshhazelnutsarewonderfullysweetandjuicy.Theyhaveashortseason,frommid-AugustuntilOctober,butareworthusingforthissaladifyoucangetthem.Try them first and decide for yourself whether you want to roast them as Idescribe,orkeepfresh.Withorwithouthazelnuts,thismakesthemostluxurioussummerstarter.
Serves4
1/3cupshelledhazelnuts7smallzucchini(13/4lbsintotal)4tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper
1tspbalsamicvinegar11/4cupsmixedgreenandpurplebasilleaves3oztop-qualityParmesan,broken
uporverythinlysliced2tsphazelnutoil
Preheattheovento300°F.Scatterthehazelnutsoverabakingsheetandroastfor12to15minutes,oruntilnicelybrowned.Letthemcooldownbeforechoppingroughlyorjustcrushinglightlywiththesideofalargeknife.
Placearidgedgriddlepanonahighheatandleaveitthereuntilit’salmostred-hot-atleast5minutes.
Meanwhile,trimtheendsofthezucchiniandcutthemonanangleinto3/8-inch-thickslices.Placetheminabowlandtosswithhalftheoliveoilandsomesaltandpepper.Placetheslicesinthehotgrillpanandchar-grillforabout2minutesoneachside; turn themoverusing tongs.Youwant togetdistinctcharmarkswithoutcookingthezucchinithrough.Transfertoamixingbowl,pouroverthebalsamicvinegar,tosstogetherandsetaside.
Oncethezucchinihavecooleddown,addtheremainingoliveoil,thebasilandhazelnuts.Mixlightly,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningaccordingly.Transferthe salad to a flat plate, incorporating the Parmesan, and drizzle over thehazelnutoil.
Crustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcream
Youcanusemostvarietiesofpumpkinforthesesatisfyingwedges.ServewithGreenGazpachotomakealightandhealthy-feelingsupper.TheywillalsomakeaperfectveggiemaincourseforChristmasasthecrustisabitlikestuffing.
Serves4
11/2 lbs pumpkin (skin on) 1/2 cup grated Parmesan 3 tbsp dried whitebreadcrumbs
6tbspfinelychoppedparsley21/2tspfinelychoppedthymegratedzestof2largelemons2garliccloves,crushedsaltandwhitepepper1/4cupoliveoil1/2cupsourcream1tbspchoppeddill
Preheat the oven to 375°F.Cut the pumpkin into 3/8-inch-thick slices and laythemflat,cut-sidedown,onabakingsheetthathasbeenlinedwithparchmentpaper.
Mix together ina smallbowl theParmesan,breadcrumbs,parsley, thyme,halfthe lemon zest, the garlic, a tiny amount of salt (remember, the Parmesan issalty)andsomepepper.
Brush the pumpkin generouslywith olive oil and sprinklewith the crustmix,makingsuretheslicesarecoveredwithanice,thickcoating.Gentlypatthemixdownalittle.
Placethepanintheovenandroastforabout30minutes,oruntilthepumpkinistender: stick a little knife in one wedge to make sure it has softened and iscookedthrough.Ifthetoppingstartstodarkentoomuchduringcooking,coverlooselywithfoil.
Mix the sour creamwith the dill and some salt andpepper. Serve thewedgeswarm,sprinkledwiththeremaininglemonzest,withthesourcreamontheside.
Tamara’sratatouille
AlthoughIcall thisratatouille thenamedoesn’tdoitanyjustice,as this is themostmagnificentlydeliciousdish,nothinglikethedrabpileoflimpzucchiniI’dnormallyassociatewith thename.Iwasgiven therecipebyTamaraMeitlis,afriendandawisecookwhowouldtellyou-andIcan’tagreemorehere-togetallyourvegprepdonebeforeyoustartcooking.Ialsoadviseyoutofollowtheinstructionsclosely;overcookingthevegetablesisexactlythepointhere.
Serves4
7tbspsunfloweroil2smallonions,cutinto11/4-inchdice4garliccloves,sliced1/2freshgreenchile,thinlysliced2smallredpeppers,cutinto11/4-inchdice1/2
small butternut squash, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice 1 small parsnip,peeledandcutinto11/4-inchdice1cupFrenchbeans,trimmed
1mediumzucchini,cutinto11/4-inchdice1/2largeeggplant,peeledandcutinto11/4-inchdice1 small potato, peeled and cut into11/4-inchdice2mediumtomatoes,peeledandchopped
1/2tbspsugar1tbsptomatopastesaltandblackpepper1cupwaterchoppedcilantrotogarnish(optional)
Pourtwo-thirdsoftheoilintoalargeheavycasseroledishorapotandplaceonamedium-highheat.Addtheonionsandfryfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Next,stirinthegarlic,chileandredpeppersandfryforanother5minutes.Addthesquashandparsnipandcontinuefryingfor5minutes.
Usingaslottedspoon,liftthevegetablesoutofthepotandintoamediumbowl,leavingasmuchoftheoilinthepotaspossible.Topthisupwiththeremainingoil. Add the French beans, zucchini and eggplant to the hot oil and fry for 5minutes,stirringoccasionally.
Return the contents of the bowl to the pot. Add the potato, tomatoes, sugar,tomatopasteandplentyofsaltandpepper.Stirwell,thenpourinthewater,orjustenoughtohalf-cover thevegetables.Coverwitha lidand leave tosimmergentlyfor30minutes.Tastethevegetablesandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.
Finally, preheat the oven to 400°F. Use a slotted spoon to gently lift thevegetablesfromthepotandintoalarge,deeproastingpantomakealayerabout11/4 inches thick.Pour the liquidover thevegetables andplace in theoven tocookfor30minutes.Atthispointallthevegetablesshouldbeverysoftandmostoftheliquidevaporated.Garnishwithcilanro,ifyoulike,andserve.
Peppers
Multi-vegetablepaella
AllmySpanishingredients,andlotsofotherdeliciouswonders,IgetatasmallSpanish supermarket, Garcia, on Portobello Road. This is a proper piece of
Spain incentralLondon,notonlyfor theproducebutalsofor the typical laid-backattitude. Ican’tbesurebutI think they takeasiesta in themiddleof theday.Calasparrariceandothergood-qualitySpanishproductscanbeboughtfromLaTienda.comintheUnitedStates.
Serves2generously
3tbspoliveoil1/2Spanishonion,finelychopped1smallredbellpepper,cutintostrips1small
yellow bell pepper, cut into strips 1/2 fennel bulb, cut into strips 2 garliccloves,crushed
2bayleaves1/4 tsp smoked paprika 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper 1 cup
Calasparra rice (or another short-grain paella rice) 61/2 tbsp good-qualitysherry1tspsaffronthreads
salt2cupsboilingvegetablestock3/4cupshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)12plumtomatoes,halved5 small grilled artichokes in oil from a jar, drained and quartered 15 pitted
kalamataolives,crushedorhalved2tbsproughlychoppedparsley4lemonwedges
Heatuptheoliveoilinapaellapan,oralargeshallowskillet,andgentlyfrytheonion for 5minutes. Add the bell peppers and fennel and continue to fry onmediumheat forabout6minutes,oruntil softandgolden.Add thegarlicandcookfor1minutemore.
Add the bay leaves, paprika, turmeric and cayenne to the vegetables and stirwell. Then add the rice and stir thoroughly for 2 minutes before adding thesherryandsaffron.Boildownforaminute,thenaddthestockand1/3teaspoonsalt. Reduce the heat to the minimum and simmer very gently for about 20minutes,oruntilmostoftheliquidhasbeenabsorbedbytherice.Donotcoverthepananddon’tstirthericeduringthecooking.
Meanwhile,pourplentyofboilingwateroverthefavabeansinabowlandleave
foraminute, thendrainwelland leave tocooldown.Nowsqueezeeachbeangentlytoremovetheskinanddiscardit.
Remove the paella pan from the heat. Taste and addmore salt if needed butwithout stirring the rice andvegetablesmuch.Scatter the tomatoes, artichokesandfavabeansoverthericeandcoverthepantightlywithfoil.Leavetorestfor10minutes.
Takeoffthefoil.Scattertheolivesontopofthepaellaandsprinklewithparsley.Servewithwedgesoflemon.
Marinatedpeppersaladwithpecorino
Crusty bread is essential to soakup the sweet dressing left after finishing thissalad. Serve as a starter, followed by a main course of Mushroom and HerbPolenta.
Serves2asastarter
1redbellpepper,quartered1yellowbellpepper,quartered4tbspoliveoilsalt1tbspbalsamicvinegar1tbspwater1/2tspmuscovadosugar2thymesprigs1garlicclove,thinlyslicedblackpepper2tbspflat-leafparsley,leavespicked2/3cupbasilleaves1cupwatercress2ozmaturepecorino,shaved1tbspdrainedcapers
Preheattheovento375°F.Tossthepepperswith1tablespoonoftheoilandalittlesalt.Scatterinaroastingpanandroastfor35minutes,oruntiltheysoftenandtakeonsomecolor.Removetoabowlandcoveritwithplasticwrap.Oncecooledtoroomtemperature,peelthepeppersandcutintothickstrips.
Whisk together 2 tablespoons of the oil, the balsamic vinegar, water, sugar,thyme, garlic, and some salt andpepper.Pour this over the peppers and leaveasideforatleastanhour,orovernightinthefridge.
Toassemblethesaladtosstogethertheherbs,watercress,drainedpepperstrips,pecorinoandcapers.Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoiland1tablespoon(ormoreifyoulike)ofthemarinade.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasneeded.
Veryfulltart
AfantasticMediterraneanfeast,fulltothebrimwithroastedvegetables.
Serves4-6
1redbellpepper1yellowbellpepperabout6tbspoliveoil1mediumeggplant,cutinto2-inchdicesaltandblackpepper1smallsweetpotato,peeledandcutinto1-inchdice1smallzucchini,cutinto1-
inchdice2mediumonions,thinlysliced2bayleaves11ozpiecrustdough8thymesprigs,leavespicked1/3cupricotta41/4ozfeta7cherrytomatoes,halved2mediumeggs1cupheavycream
Preheattheovento450°F.Useasmallserratedknifetocutaroundthestemofthepeppersandliftitoutalongwiththeseeds.Shakethepepperstoremoveallthe remaining seeds; discard the stems and seeds. Place the two peppers in asmallovenproofdish,drizzlewithalittleoilandputonthetopshelfintheoven.
Mix the eggplant in a bowlwith 4 tablespoons of olive oil and some salt andpepper.Spreadinalargebakingpanandplaceintheovenontheshelfbeneaththepeppers.
After12minutesaddthesweetpotatodicetotheeggplantpanandstirgently.Returntotheoventoroastforanother12minutes.Thenaddthezucchinitothepan,stirandroastforafurther10to12minutes.Atthispointthepeppersshouldbebrownandtherestofthevegetablescooked.Removeallfromtheovenandreducethetemperatureto325°F.Coverthepepperswithfoilandcool,thenpeel
andtearroughlyintostrips.
Heat2tablespoonsofoliveoilinafryingpanonmediumheat.Sautétheonionswiththebayleavesandsomesaltfor25minutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltheyturnbrown,softandsweet.Removefromtheheat,discardthebayleavesandsetaside.
Lightlygreasea9-inchloose-bottomedtartpan.Rolloutthepiecrustdoughtoacircleroughly1/8inchthickandlargeenoughtolinethepan,plusextratohangovertherim.Carefullylinethepanwiththedough,pressingitintothecornersand leaving theexcesshangingover the topedge.Line thedoughwitha largesheet of parchmentpaper and fill itwithpieweights or driedbeans.Bake thecrustfor30minutes.Carefullyremovethepaperwiththeweights,thenbakefor10to15minutesmore,oruntilitturnsgoldenbrown.Removeandallowtocoolalittle.
Scatter thecookedonionover thebottomof thecrustand topwith the roastedvegetables,arrangingthemevenly.Scatterhalfthethymeleavesover.Next,dotthevegwithsmallchunksofbothcheesesandthenwiththetomatohalves,cut-sideup.
Whisktheeggsandcreaminasmallbowlwithsomesaltandpepper.Carefullypour thismixinto the tart; the toplayerof tomatoesandcheeseshouldremainexposed.Scatter theremainingthymeover the top.Place in theovenandbakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthefillingsetsandturnsgolden.Removeandallowtorestforatleast10minutesbeforereleasingthetartfromthepanandserving.
Scrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdough
Thisbrilliantbrunchgrub reliesonchipotles - smoke-dried jalapeñopeppers -whichgive out a terrific smoky flavor that iswarm, earthy andnot too spicy.ThisMexicanstaplewilladddepthandpungency toall stew-typedishes.Youcanfindthematpenzeys.comandotheronlinesuppliersofchiles.
Serves4
4driedchipotlepeppers4thickslicessourdoughbreadlightlysaltedbutter2tbspoliveoil4garliccloves,sliced4greenonions,cutinto3/4-inch-longpieces4plumtomatoes,roughlychopped6duckeggs1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepperbunchofcilantroleaves,roughlychopped4heapedtbspsourcream
First,placethedriedchipotlesinabowl,coverwithboilingwaterandleavetosoakfor15minutes.Thendrain,chopintoroughchunksandsetaside.
Preheat the grill to high. Place the sourdough bread slices under the grill andtoastwellonbothsides.Spreadbuttergenerouslyonthetoastsandleavethemsomewherewarm.
Heatuptheoliveoilinalargefryingpan.Addthegarlicandgreenonionsandcook lightly on medium-high heat. When they begin to turn golden, add thechoppedtomatoesandchipotlesandcookforafurther1to2minutes.
Breaktheeggsintoabowlandbeatlightlywithafork,addingthesaltandsomepepper.Pourtheeggsintothefryingpanandcookfor20to30seconds,stirringconstantlytocreaterunnyscrambledeggs.
Put the toasts on serving plates, spoon the eggs on top and sprinkle over thecilantro.Serveimmediately,withthesourcreamontoporontheside.
Shakshuka
In a tiny alley inold Jaffa there’s a little restaurant serving food to customerssittingoutside at shared shabby tables.Theplace is heaving around lunchtimeand everybody,moreor less, is eating the same thing.Theplace is calledDr.Shakshuka, after its signature dish, and this is, obviously, what everybody’stuckinginto.
Shakshuka is aNorthAfrican dishwithmany variations. Some add preservedlemon, others feta and different herbs and spices. It is my ideal brunch fare!Cookandserveitinindividualpans,ifyouhavethem,orinoneverylargeone.Chunkywhitebreadonthesideisamust.
Serves4generously
1/2tspcuminseeds3/4cuplightoliveoilorvegetableoil2largeonions,sliced2redbellpeppers,cutinto3/4-inchstrips2yellowbellpeppers,cutinto3/4-inch
strips4tspmuscovadosugar2bayleaves6thymesprigs,leavespickedandchopped2tbspchoppedparsley2tbspchoppedcilantro,plusextratogarnish6ripetomatoes,roughlychopped1/2tspsaffronthreadspinchofcayennepeppersaltandblackpepperupto11/8cupswater8eggs
Inaverylargepandry-roastthecuminseedsonhighheatfor2minutes.Addtheoil andonions and sauté for 5minutes.Add thepeppers, sugar andherbs andcontinuecookingonhighheatfor5to10minutestogetanicecolor.
Addthetomatoes,saffron,cayenneandsomesaltandpepper.Reducetheheattolowandcookfor15minutes.Duringthecookingkeepaddingwatersothatthemixhasapastasauceconsistency.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Itshouldbepotentandflavorful.(Youcanpreparethismixwellinadvance.)Remove the bay leaves, then divide the pepper mix among four deep fryingpans, each large enough to take a generous individual portion. Place them onmediumheattowarmup,thenmaketwogapsinthepeppermixineachpanandcarefullybreakaneggintoeachgap.Sprinklewithsaltandcoverthepanswithlids.Cookonavery(!)gentleheatfor10to12minutes,oruntiltheeggsarejustset.Sprinklewithcilantroandserve.
Brassicas
BroccoliandGorgonzolapie
Soon after I published this recipe, an annoyedGuardian reader sent a lettergrumblingabouttheamountoffatinthepie.Hiscommentsomehowmanaged
tounsettlemynormally-very-good-tempered self. Iguess itwas themoralistictone of the reproach, a condescending attempt by someone who, I suspect,doesn’treallylikefoodtotellotherswhattoeat.
Isay,enjoythispiefully!Isuggestservingitwarmoratroomtemperaturewithasimplesaladoftomatoandredonion,lightlydressedwithgarlic,oliveoilandwhitewinevinegar.
Serves6
1lbpuffpastry2broccoliheads(11/2lbsintotal),cutintoflorets2tbspbutter3to4leeks,trimmedandthinlysliced2/3cupheavycream1/3cupwater1/3cupchoppedchives1/3cupchoppedtarragon3tbspgrainymustard1tspsaltblackpepper7ozGorgonzola,cutintomediumchunks1egg,beaten
Preheattheovento400°F.Rollouttwo-thirdsofthepastryintoacirclethatis1/8inchthickandlargeenoughtolinea10-inchloose-bottomedtartpan.Linethe pan and trim off the excess pastry. Roll out the remaining pastry into athinnerdisc, largeenoughtocoverthesurfaceofthepie,andlayitonaplate.Placebothshellandlidinthefreezerfor10minutes.
Line thepastrywithparchmentpaperandfill itwithbakingbeans.Bakeblindfor 15 to 20 minutes, or until light brown. Remove the paper and beans andreturntotheoventobakeforabout5minutes,oruntilthebottomoftheshellisgolden.Leavetocooldown.
Whilethetartshellisbaking,preparethefilling.Cookthebroccolifloretsina
large pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes, or until tender but still firm.Draininacolander,rinsewellwithcoldwaterandleavetodry.
Meltthebutterinapanandfrytheleeksongentleheatfor10to15minutes,oruntilsoftbutnotcolored.Addthecream,water,chives,tarragon,mustard,saltandsomeblackpepper.Stirwellandremovefromtheheat.
Toassemble,spreadtheleekmixtureoverthebottomofthepastrycase.Scatterthebroccoliontopandgentlypressintotheleekmix.DotwiththeGorgonzola.Brushtherimofthetartcasewiththebeateneggandplacethepastrylidoverthefilling.Pressdownfirmlyaroundtheedgetoattachthelidtothecase.Trimoffanyofthelidthathangsovertheedge.
Glazethelidwithbeateneggandbakeforabout30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgoldenbrown.Allowtocoolalittlebeforeremovingfromthepan.
Broccoliniandsweetsesamesalad
Ingennogoma-ae,Japanesegreenbeanswithgroundsesameandmiso,isatruedelicacy.Iparticularlylikeitwhenblacksesameseedsareused;theygiveitanextra-luxuriouslook.TheJapanesedishistheinspirationforthissalad,althoughI must admit the use of tahini is a move no Japanese would ever dream ofmaking.ServedwiththeQuinoaSaladwithDriedPersianLimethisdishwouldmakeawonderfulsupper.
Serves4
Sauce4tbsptahini21/2tbspwater1smallgarlicclove,crushed1/2tsptamari1/2tbsphoney3/4tbspcidervinegar11/2tbspmirinpinchofsalt
3/4 lb (31/2 cups)broccoliniorpurple sproutingbroccoli 3/4 cupgreenbeans2
cupssnowpeas1tbsppeanutoil11/2cupscilantroleaves3tbsptoastedsesameseeds1tspnigellaseeds
To make the sauce.Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl (reduce theamountofhoneyifyoudon’tlikeittoorich).Thesauceshouldbesmoothandthick but with a pourable consistency, so adjust the amount of water asnecessary.Tasteandaddmoresalt,ifyoulike.
Trim off any leaves from the broccolini. If the stalks are thick cut themlengthwaysintotwoorfour,soyouareleftwithlongandthinnerstalks,similarinsizetothegreenbeans.Trimoff thestalkendsofthebeansandsnowpeas,keepingthemseparate.
Bringamediumpanofunsaltedwatertotheboil.Blanchthegreenbeansfor3to5minutes,oruntiljusttenderbutstillcrunchy.Liftintoacolanderandrefreshunderrunningcoldwater;drainanddrywellwithateatowel.Inthesamewaterblanch thesnowpeasfor2minutes; refresh,drainanddry.Repeat theprocesswiththebroccoli,blanchingitfor2to3minutes.
Mixall thevegetables together inabowlwith theoil.Youcannowserve thesalad in two ways. For one, stir most of the cilantro leaves and sesame andnigellaseedsinwiththevegetablesandpileuponaservingdish;pourthesauceon topand finishwith the remainingcilantroandseeds.Alternatively,pile thevegetables on a serving plate, dottingwith cilantro leaves and sprinklingwithseedsasyougo;servethesauceinabowlontheside.
Stuffedcabbage
ThiscomfortingmaincoursemakesuseofacombinationcommontoArabandTurkish cuisines - it mixes rice and little vermicelli noodles to create anattractivetexturethatislightanddelicate.
Serves4
2tbspunsaltedbutter11/2ozvermicellinoodles(notthericevariety)7/8cupbasmatirice11/4cupswatersalt1mediumwhitecabbage1/3cuppinenuts,toastedandroughlychopped3/4cupricotta1/4cupgratedParmesan3tbspchoppedmint4tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratofinish3garliccloves,crushedblackpepper1cupdrywhitewine
6tbspvegetablestock11/2tbspsugar4tbspoliveoil
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over amediumheat.Break the vermicelliwithyourhandsinto3/4-inch-longpiecesandaddthemtothepan.Stirasyoufrythemfor1to2minutes.Takecare!Theycanburninasecond.Assoonasthenoodlesstartturninggoldenaddthericeandstirwell.Thenaddthewaterand1/2teaspoonsaltandbringto theboil.Turntheheatdownto theminimum,coverandcookfor20minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavetositfor10minutesbeforeremovingthelidandallowingtocooldownabit.
Whilethericeiscooking,cutthecabbageverticallyinhalf.Peelofftheleavesandblanchtheminboilingwaterfor6to8minutes,oruntilsemisoft.Youmayneed to do this in a few batches, depending on the size of your pan.(Alternatively, trimoff thebaseof thecabbage, thenput itwhole intoapotofboiling water; gradually remove the outer leaves as they cook.) Refresh theleavesundercoldrunningwater,drainandpatdry.
Preheattheovento350°F.Tothecookedriceaddthepinenuts,ricotta,halftheParmesan, theherbs, garlic and salt andpepper to taste;mixwellwith a fork.Use the cooked cabbage leaves tomake parcels ofwhatever size you choose,eachonecontainingagenerousamountof the rice filling.Alternatively,makerolls by placing some rice filling at the base of a rectangular-shaped piece ofcabbageandthenrollingitup;don’tworrythatthesidesremainopen.
Arrangethecabbageparcelsclosetogetherinanovenproofdish(ifyoucan’tfillup the dish completely use cabbage trimmings to fill in the gaps). Whisktogetherthewine,stock,sugar,oliveoilandplentyofsaltandpepper.Pourthisover the cabbage parcels and put the dish in the oven. Bake for about 40minutes, or until almost all the liquid is gone. Sprinkle with the remainingParmesan,returntotheovenandbakeforafurther10minutesforthecheesetomelt and turn golden. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5minutesbeforeserving.
Smokyfrittata
Scamorza affumicata is an Italian cheese that melts fantastically well. Oftenlabelled “smoked mozzarella,” it is highly effective in adding depth andpungencytovegetariandishes.
Serves4-6
1smallcauliflower,cutintomediumflorets6eggs4tbspcrèmefraîche2tbspDijonmustard2tspsweetsmokedpaprika3tbspfinelychoppedchives5ozsmokedscamorza,grated(includingtheskinforextraflavor)2ozmature
Cheddar,gratedsaltandblackpepper2tbspoliveoil
Simmer the cauliflower in a large pan of boiling saltedwater for only 4 to 5minutes,oruntilsemi-cooked.Drainanddry.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Break the eggs into a large bowl. Add the crèmefraîche,mustardandpaprika andwhiskwell,making sure the eggsandcrèmefraîchearethoroughlyblended.Nowstirinthechivesandthree-quartersofthecheeses,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.
Heat up the olive oil in a large ovenproof frying pan. Fry the cauliflower forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownononeside.Pourovertheeggmixtureanduseaforktospreadthecauliflowerevenlyinthepan.Cookonmediumheatforabout5minutes.
Scattertheremainingcheesesontop,thencarefullytransferthepantotheoven.Cookfor10to12minutes,oruntilthefrittataisset.
Removefromtheovenandletrestfor2to3minutesbeforecuttingintowedges.Eatimmediately,withapepperygreensalad.
Purplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodles
Yes,there’salonglistofingredientshere,butIamreadytobeextra-kindandallow you to adapt the recipe, to use commercial Thai curry paste instead ofhavingtoschlepandgetalltheindividualitems.This“dry”variationofagreencurrymakesoneofthemostsatisfyingsupperdishesforthelatewinterandearlymonthsofspring.
Serves6
Spicepaste3/4-inch piece of galangal (or fresh ginger), peeled and chopped 11/2 medium
freshgreenchiles,seededandroughlychopped11/2lemongrassstalks,outerlayerandtoughendsremoved,roughlychopped1garlicclove,crushed
1/2shallot,roughlychopped3/4tbspcorianderseeds,finelyground1/2tspcuminseeds, finely ground grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime 1 small bunch ofcilantro(withstalksandroots)
2tbspvegetableoil
11/4lbspurplesproutingbroccoliorbroccolini1redonion,finelychopped1tbspvegetableoilsalt1tsppalmsugar7kaffirlimeleaves13/4cupscoconutmilk1lbwidericenoodles(orricesticks)4tbsptoastedsesameoil3tbsplimejuice,plusextratofinish2tbspshreddedbasilorcilantro
Tomake the spicepaste.Place all the ingredients in the small bowlof a foodprocessorandblendtoapaste.Youmightneedtostoponceortwicetoscrapethemixturebackdownfromthesidesofthebowloraddalittleextralimejuiceoroil.Keepthepasteontheside.
Trimanyleavesfromthebroccolianddivideintolargeflorets.
Sauté theonionwith theoil inamediumsaucepanfor2 to3minutes,oruntiltranslucent. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 1teaspoonsalt, thepalmsugar, lime leavesandcoconutmilk.Bring to theboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.
Bring twomediumsaucepansof saltedwater to theboil. Inone,cook the ricenoodlesfor3to6minutes(checktheinstructionsonthepacket)andintheothercookthebroccolifor1to2minutes.Drainboth.Rinsethenoodlesbrieflyunderhotwateranddrainwell,thentosswith3tablespoonsofthesesameoilandthelime juice; seasongenerouslywithsalt.Drizzle the restof thesesameoiloverthebroccoliandsprinklewithapinchofsalt.
Dividethenoodlesamongwarmedwidebowlsandtopwiththewarmbroccoli.Spoon3to4tablespoonsofthesauceperportionoverandaroundthebroccoli,andfinishwiththebasilorcilantroandasquirtoflimejuice.
Cabbageandkohlrabisalad
Peoplealwaysaskmewhattodowithkohlrabi,anoftenunwantedchildintheorganicvegetablebox.Itseemstoohealthful,tooweird,tooGerman!Inactualfact,thisisawonderfulvegetable.Whenmixedwithrootvegetablesyoucanuseitingratins;youcanshallow-fryitinoliveoilandservewithgarlicandchives;andyoucanaddittoanAsianstir-fry.
But in thissaladI thinkIhavefoundtheabsolutebestuseforakohlrabi. It iswonderfullyfresh-tasting,withagoodlemonykickandsomesharpsweetness.Youmayendupgoinglookingforkohlrabi,anditisn’tveryeasytofind.Servethesaladalongsiderichmaincourses,suchasVeryFullTart.
Serves4
1mediumor1/2largekohlrabi1/2whitecabbage(8to9oz)largebunchofdill,roughlychopped(6heapedtbsp)
1cupdriedwholesourcherriesgratedzestof1lemon6tbsplemonjuice1/4cupoliveoil1garlicclove,crushedsaltandwhitepepper2cupsalfalfasprouts
Peelthekohlrabiandcutintothickmatchsticksthatareabout1/4inchwideand2incheslong.Cutthecabbageinto1/4-inch-thickstrips.
Putalltheingredients,apartfromthealfalfasprouts,inalargemixingbowl.Useyourhandstomassageeverythingtogetherforaboutaminutesotheflavorsmixandthelemoncansoftenthecabbageandcherries.Letthesaladsitforabout10minutes.
Addmostofthealfalfasproutsandmixwellagainwithyourhands.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;youneedafairamountofsalttocounteractthelemon.
Useyourhandsagaintoliftthesaladoutofthemixingbowlandintoaservingbowl,leavingmostofthejuicesbehind.Garnishwiththeremainingsproutsandserveatonce.
Sweetwinterslaw
This saladwill bring color toyourwinter dinner table and livenup anymeal.You can leave out the caramelized macadamias, if you like, or use roastedpeanutsinstead.ConsiderservingtheslawwithChardCakesorroastchicken.
Serves6
Dressing61/2tbsplimejuice1lemongrassstalk,choppedintosmallpieces3tbspmaplesyrup2tbsptoastedsesameoil1tspsoysauce1/4tspchileflakes4tbsplightoliveoilorsunfloweroil
11/4cupsmacadamianuts2tspbutter2tbspsugar1/2tspsalt
1/2 tsp chile flakes 7 inner leaves of Savoy cabbage (6 oz in total), finelyshredded
1/2redcabbage(10oz),finelyshredded1mango,cutintothinstrips1papaya,cutintostrips1freshredchile,seededandfinelysliced1/4cupmint,leavespickedandroughlychopped11/2cupscilantro,leavespicked
androughlychoppedTo make the dressing. Place all the ingredients, except the oil, in a smallsaucepan and reduce over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until thick andsyrupy.Removefromtheheat.Oncecooleddown,strainthesauceintoabowlandaddtheoil.Putasideforlater.
Placethemacadamiasinafryingpanovermediumheatanddry-roastforafewminutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltheyarelightlycoloredonallsides.Addthebutter.When it hasmelted add the sugar, salt and chile flakes.Use awoodenspoon to stir constantly to coat the nuts in the sugar as it caramelizes.Watchcarefullyasitwillonlytake1to2minutesandthesugarcanburnquickly.Turnoutontoasheetofparchmentpaper.Coolthenuts,thenroughlychopthem.
Place the shredded cabbages in a largemixingbowlwith the rest of the saladingredients,includingthenuts.Addthedressingandtosstogether.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyouneedto,thenserve.
SavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoup
Thisrecipeisabitofasolution-whattodowithalltheParmesanrindsleftaftergrating.Inrestaurantsyougetloads,soit’scommontousethemforsoupsandsauces. At home, you can collect the skins over time and keep them in thefreezer.Ifyoudon’thaveenoughyoucanalwaysaddmoregratedParmesan.
Serves4
6tbspoliveoil1largeonion,sliced1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspcarawayseeds,plusextratogarnish1mediumsavoycabbage1mediumpotato,peeledanddiced5cupsvegetablestock3ozParmesanrinds,plusabout1/3cupgratedParmesan(optional)coarsesea
salt1/2mildfreshredchile,seededandthinlyslicedHeat4tablespoonsoftheoilinalargepanandsautétheoniononmediumheatfor about 5minutes, or until soft butwithoutmuch color.Add the garlic andcarawayseedsandcookforafurther2minutes.
Remove four of the outer leaves from the cabbage, shred them finely and putasideforlater.Shredtherestofthecabbageleavesroughlyandaddthemtotheonions togetherwith the potato. Continue frying, stirring regularly, for 2 to 3minutes.
Add enough stock just to cover the vegetables and bring to the boil.Add theParmesanrind, thenreduce theheatandsimmerforabout10minutes,oruntilthepotatoistender.RemoveanddiscardtheParmesanrind.Tastethesoupandseasonwithsalt.
Removethesaucepanfromtheheatandallowthesouptocooldownforafewminutes.Then,usingan immersionblenderoraregularblender,blitz thesoup
roughly.Addmorestockifyouthinkitistoothick.Adjusttheseasoning.Keephot.
Heatuptheremaining2tablespoonsofoilinafryingpanandsautéthereservedshreddedcabbagewiththechileandabitofsaltfor3to4minutes,oruntilthecabbagesoftensbutstillretainsitsvibrantgreen.
Ladle thehotsoup intoservingbowls.Add theoptionalgratedParmesan.Topgenerouslywithshreddedcabbageandfinishwithafewcarawayseeds.
Brusselssproutsandtofu
Thoughunorthodox,here’sprobablyoneofthebestthingsyoucandowiththeoldBrussels.Thedelicioussweetsaucelendsvibrancytothedishandmakesitutterlyaddictive.Servewithhotsteamedrice.
Serves4
2tbspsweetchilesauce11/2tbspsoysauce3tbsptoastedsesameoil1tspricevinegar1tbspmaplesyrup5ozfirmtofu1lbBrusselssproutsabout3/4cupsunfloweroilsalt1cupslicedgreenonions1/2 small fresh red chile, deseeded and finely chopped 11/2 cups shiitake
mushrooms,halvedorquartered1cupcilantroleaves1tbsptoastedsesameseeds(optional)
Whisktogetherinabowlthechileandsoysauces,2tablespoonsofthesesameoil, the vinegar andmaple syrup.Cut the tofu block into 3/8-inch-thick slicesand theneachslice into twosquarishpieces.Gentlystir into themarinadeand
setaside.
Trimthebasesoffthesproutsandcuteachfromtoptobottomintothreethickslices.Takealargenonstickpan,add4tablespoonsofthesunfloweroilandheatupwell.Throw inhalf the sproutswith a little salt and cookonhighheat forabout2minutes.Don’tstirmuch.Youwantthesproutstoalmostburninafewplaces and cook through but remain crunchy.Remove to a bowl.Repeatwithmoreoil,saltandtherestofthesprouts.Removeallthesproutsfromthepan.
Add2moretablespoonsofsunfloweroiltothepan,heatupandsautéthegreenonions,chileandmushroomsfor1to2minutes.Transfertothesproutsbowl.
Leave the pan on high heat.Use tongs to lift half of the tofu pieces from themarinadeandgentlylaytheminthepan(becarefulastheoilwillspit!),spacingthemapartandinonelayer.Reducetheflametomediumandcookfor2minutesoneach side,oruntil theyget anicecaramelizedcolor.Transfer to the sproutbowlandrepeatwiththerestofthetofu.
Once all the tofu is cooked, remove the pan from the heat and return all thecookedingredientstoit.Addtheremainingtofumarinadeandhalfthecilantroleaves. Toss everything together and allow to cool down slightly in the pan.Tasteandaddsalt,ifneeded.Stirintheremainingsesameoil(plusextra,ifyoulike).Servewarm,butnothot,garnishedwiththesesameseeds,ifusing,andtherestofthecilantro.
Saffroncauliflower
In thesummerof2009Iwasaskedby themakersof theFoodProgrammeonBBCRadio4 tohostahalf-hourshowonasubjectofmychoice.Bizarrely, Iended up doing a program about cauliflower, trying to show how this veg isunjustifiablylosingitspopularityinrecentyears,particularlytobroccoli.Iknowthat there’snothingobviously sexyabout cauliflower towarrant star status. Infact, it seems - on the face of it - somehow dull and dreary. But aswewereworkingontheshowIrealizedthatthisisn’treallythecase,thatcaulifloweris
actuallywonderfullyversatile,muchmoresothanbroccoli.BothSamiTamimi,Ottolenghi’s executive head chef, and I agreed that it is one of those singularvegetables,likepotatooreggplant,thatcantakeonbigflavorswithoutlosingitsownuniquecharacter.
Here’soneexample.Serveitaspartofamezzeselectionorasasidedishwithlentilsorfish.Toupgrade,drizzlewithtahinisauce.
Serves4asasidedish
11/2tspsaffron1/3cupboilingwater1mediumcauliflower,dividedintomediumflorets1largeredonion,sliced2/3cupgoldenraisins(iftheyareverydrysoaktheminwaterforafewminutes,
then drain) 1/2 cup good-quality green olives, pitted and cut lengthways inhalf4tbspoliveoil
2bayleavessaltandblackpepper4tbsproughlychoppedparsley
Preheattheovento400°F.Putthesaffronstrandsinasmallbowlandpourovertheboilingwater.Leavetoinfuseforaminute,thenpourthesaffronandwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheremainingingredients,excepttheparsley,andmixeverythingtogetherwellwithyourhands.
Transfer themix toamediumovenproofdish,coverwithfoilandplace in theoven.Cookfor40to45minutes,oruntilthecaulifloweristenderbutstillabitfirm,notsoft.Halfwaythroughthecookingtimeremovethedishfromtheovenandstirwell,thencoveragainandreturntobake.
Oncethecaulifloweriscooked,takeitoutoftheoven,removethefoilandallowto cool down slightly before stirring in the parsley. Taste and adjust theseasoning,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.
TheMightyEggplant
Eggplantwithbuttermilksauce
I can’t think of a more rustically elegant (is that a contradiction in terms?)starter.Servewithsomerobustwhitebreadorpitaandyouare,literally,infood
heaven.Intherecipeyou’llfindSamiTamimi’stechniqueforgettingtheseedsoutofthepomegranate,whichIamafraidisnowaverywell-knownsecret.
Serves4asastarter
2largeandlongeggplants1/3cupoliveoil11/2tsplemonthymeleaves,plusafewwholesprigstogarnishMaldonseasalt
andblackpepper1pomegranate1tspza’atar
Sauce9tbspbuttermilk1/2 cupGreekyogurt 11/2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle to finish 1 small garlic
clove,crushedpinchofsalt
Preheattheovento200°F.Cuttheeggplantsinhalflengthways,cuttingstraightthroughthegreenstalk(thestalkisforthelook;don’teatit).Useasmallsharpknife tomake three or four parallel incisions in the cut side of each eggplanthalf,without cutting through to the skin.Repeat at a 45-degree angle to get adiamond-shapedpattern.
Place theeggplanthalves,cut-sideup,onabakingsheet linedwithparchmentpaper.Brushthemwitholiveoil-keeponbrushinguntilalloftheoilhasbeenabsorbedbytheflesh.Sprinklewiththelemonthymeleavesandsomesaltandpepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, at which point the flesh should be soft,flavorful and nicely browned.Remove from the oven and allow to cool downcompletely.
Whiletheeggplantsareintheoven,cutthepomegranateintotwohorizontally.Holdonehalfoverabowl,withthecutsideagainstyourpalm,andusethebackof awooden spoon or a rolling pin to gently knock on the pomegranate skin.Continue beating with increasing power until the seeds start coming outnaturallyandfallingthroughyourfingersintothebowl.Onceallarethere,sift
throughtheseedstoremoveanybitsofwhiteskinormembrane.
Tomake the sauce.Whisk together allof the ingredients.Taste for seasoning,thenkeepcolduntilneeded.
To serve, spoon plenty of buttermilk sauce over the eggplant halves withoutcoveringthestalks.Sprinkleza’atarandplentyofpomegranateseedsontopandgarnishwithlemonthyme.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoil.
Sobanoodleswitheggplantandmango
Thisdishhasbecomemymother’sultimatecook-to-impressfare.Andsheisnottheonlyone,asIhavebeeninformedbymanyreaders.Itistherefreshingnatureof the cold buckwheat noodles the sweet sharpness of the dressing and themuskinessofmangothatmakeitsopleasing.Servethisasasubstantialstarterorturnitintoalightmaincoursebyaddingsomefriedfirmtofu.
Serves6
1/2cupricevinegar3tbspsugar1/2tspsalt2garliccloves,crushed1/2freshredchile,finelychopped1tsptoastedsesameoilgratedzestandjuiceof1lime1cupsunfloweroil2eggplants,cutinto3/4-inchdice8to9ozsobanoodles1 largeripemango,cut into3/8-inchdiceor into1/4-inch-thickstrips12/3cup
basilleaves,chopped(ifyoucangetsomeuseThaibasil,butmuchlessofit)21/2cupscilantroleaves,chopped1/2redonion,verythinlysliced
Inasmallsaucepangentlywarmthevinegar,sugarandsaltforupto1minute,justuntilthesugardissolves.Removefromtheheatandaddthegarlic,chileandsesameoil.Allowtocool,thenaddthelimezestandjuice.
Heatupthesunfloweroilinalargepanandshallow-frytheeggplantinthreeorfourbatches.Oncegoldenbrown remove toacolander, sprinkle liberallywithsaltandleavetheretodrain.
Cook thenoodles inplentyofboiling saltedwater, stirringoccasionally.Theyshould take5 to8minutes tobecome tenderbutstillaldente.Drainandrinsewell under running cold water. Shake off as much of the excess water aspossible,thenleavetodryonadishtowel.
Inamixingbowltossthenoodleswiththedressing,mango,eggplant,halfoftheherbsandtheonion.Youcannowleavethisasidefor1to2hours.Whenready
toserveaddtherestoftheherbsandmixwell,thenpileonaplateorinabowl.
Eggplanttricolore(andmore)
I hope all Italianswill be able to forgiveme for this - the sacrilegious use ofcilantroinaveryItaliandish.Infact,andIsaysoquietly,almostinawhisper,itworksmarvellouslywell.AndI’dgoevenfurtherintoverydangerousterritoryby suggesting, God forbid, that fresh cilantro could fit perfectly in traditionalItaliancuisine.That’sit,I’vesaidit.Nowfeelfreetosubstitutegoodoldbasilforthecilantro.
Serves4
3mediumeggplantsoliveoilMaldonseasaltandblackpepper1yellowbellpepper,cutinto3/8-inchdice10cherrytomatoes,quartered1tbspredwinevinegar31/2 tbsp capers, plus 1 tbsp of the caper brine 5 oz top-quality buffalo
mozzarella1cuppickedcorianderleaves
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the eggplants widthways into 3/4-inch-thickslices.Placetheslicesonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Brushthemgenerously on both sideswith plenty of oil and sprinklewith salt and pepper.Roastintheovenfor25to30minutes,oruntiltheeggplantsaresoftandgoldenbrown.Allowtocooldown.
Mix together the bell pepper, tomatoes, vinegar, capers and brine, and 2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Setaside forat least30minutes (themixcanbekeptrefrigeratedforseveraldays;theflavorswilldeepenovertime).
To serve, arrange the eggplant slices, slightly overlapping, on a serving dish.Breakthemozzarellaintolargechunksandscatterontop.Spoonovertheyellowpeppersalsaandfinishwiththecilantro.
Broiledvegetablesoup
Theprocessofbroiling thevegetablesbeforecooking themtogethergives thissoupaprofounddepthofflavor.Itkeepswellsodoubleitanditwillsustainyoukindly.
Serves4
3mediumeggplants2redbellpeppers,stemsremovedwithseeds3mediumtomatoes2redonions,finelydiced2tbspoliveoil3/4cupbasilleaves,torn4oreganosprigs,leavespicked10garliccloves,peeled1qtvegetablestocksaltandblackpepper4cupsfreshlycookedlimabeans(cannedarealsookay)4tbspGreekyogurtor
4lemonquarters
Preheatthebroilertohigh.Lineasmallbakingpanwithfoil.Pricktheeggplantsin a few places with a small pointy knife and place in the pan. Broil for 30minutes.
Place thebellpeppers inanother small foil-linedbakingpanunder thebroiler,nexttotheeggplants.Turntheeggplantsoverwithtongs.Broilfor15minutes,turningthepeppersoveronceduringthistime.Don’tworryiftheeggplantskinbeginstocrackandcharorifthepeppersstartgoingblack.
Place the whole tomatoes in a small pan, underneath the other vegetables.Continuebroilingthevegetablesfor15minutes.Thenremovethemallfromthebroiler.Cover thepepperswith foil and leave to cooldown;once theycanbehandled,peelthemandtearthefleshintopieces.Cutalongslitineacheggplantandscoopoutthesoftflesh,avoidingmostoftheburntskin;roughlychopthefleshandsetaside.
Whilethevegetablesarebroiling,puttheonionsandoliveoilinalargepotandfryonlowheatforabout20minutes,oruntiltheonionsaresoftandgolden.
Add the eggplant flesh, peppers, tomatoes, half the basil, the oregano leaves,garlic,stockandsomesaltandpepper.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerthesoupfor15minutes.
Blitz until smooth using an immersion blender, or a regular blender. Add thebeansandmixwell.Reheatthesoup,thentasteforseasoning.Servehot,toppedwithadollopofGreekyogurt(orwithlemon)andtheremainingbasil.
Lentilswithbroiledeggplant
A most delicious main course for any occasion, formal or casual. After therecipeappearedintheGuardianIreceivedtwoanxiouslettersfromreaderswhohadexperiencedmini-explosionsintheirkitchen.Apparently-andIdidn’tknowitthen-insomecaseseggplantsunderthebroilercanexplodewithathunderousboom, the flesh spouting everywhere, rather than deflate gradually as the skinburnsandbreaks.Isincerelyapologizetoallwhohadthisexperience.Sopleasemakesuretopiercetheeggplants!
Serves4
2mediumeggplants2tbsptop-qualityredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper1 cup small dark lentils (such as Puy or Castelluccio), rinsed 3 small carrots,
peeled2celerystalks1bayleaf3thymesprigs1/2whiteonion3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish12cherrytomatoes,halved
1/3tspbrownsugar1 tbspeachroughlychoppedparsley,cilantroanddill2 tbspcrèmefraîche(or
naturalyogurt,ifyouprefer)Tocooktheeggplantsonagasstovetop,whichisthemosteffectiveway,startbyliningtheareaaroundtheburnerswithfoiltoprotectthem.Puttheeggplantsdirectly on two moderate flames and roast for 12 to 15 minutes, turningfrequentlywithmetal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the skin isburntallover.Keepaneyeonthemthewholetimesotheydon’tcatchfire.Foran electric stove, pierce the eggplantswith a sharp knife in a few places. Putthemonafoil-linedtrayandplacedirectlyunderahotbroilerfor1hour,turningthemafewtimes.Theeggplantsneedtodeflatecompletelyandtheirskinshouldburnandbreak.
Remove the eggplants from the heat. If you used an oven broiler, change theoventoitsnormalsetting.Heattheovento275°F.Cutaslitdownthecenteroftheeggplants and scoopout the flesh intoa colander, avoiding theblack skin.Leave todrainforat least15minutesandonly thenseasonwithplentyofsaltandpepperand1/2tablespoonofthevinegar.
Whiletheeggplantsarebroiling,placethelentilsinamediumsaucepan.Cutonecarrotandhalfacelerystalkintolargechunksandthrowthemin.Addthebayleaf,thymeandonion,coverwithplentyofwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmeronalowheatforupto25minutes,oruntilthelentilsaretender,skimmingawaythe froth from the surface from time to time. Drain in a sieve. Remove anddiscardthecarrot,celery,bayleaf,thymeandonionandtransferthelentilstoamixing bowl. Add the rest of the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil andplentyofsaltandpepper;stirandsetasidesomewherewarm.
Cut the remaining carrot and celery into 3/8-inch dice and mix with thetomatoes, the remaining oil, the sugar and some salt. Spread in an ovenproofdishandcookintheovenforabout20minutes,oruntilthecarrotistenderbutstillfirm.
Addthecookedvegetables to thewarmlentils, followedby thechoppedherbsand stir gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the lentils onto serving
plates.Pilesomeeggplantinthecenterofeachportionandtopitwithadollopofcrèmefraîcheoryogurt.Finishwithatrickleofoil.
Eggplantcroquettes
Myfascinationwith croquettes startedwhen Iwas living inAmsterdam,morethanadecadeago.AsIwasoftennotsober,forallsortsofreasons,Imanagedtofallinlovewithanationalperversion:warmandcheesygreaseballsthatcameoutofavendingmachine.Iassureyouthatyou’llbeabletoenjoymycroquetteswith amuch clearer conscience. Serve them as a nibble or a starter.You cansubstituteamuchsimplerwedgeoflemonfortheaioli,ifyouprefer.
Serves6
4mediumeggplants2mediumrussetpotatoes,cooked,peeledandsmashed1largeegg,beaten5ozfeta,crumbled3tbspgratedParmesan1/2tspsaltblackpepperabout13/4cupsdriedwhitebreadcrumbs
Tarragonaioli(optional)1eggyolk1smallgarlicclove,crushed11/2 tbsp lemon juice 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 cup grapeseedoil 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tbsp
choppedtarragon
sunfloweroilforfrying
First, burn theeggplants.When theeggplants are cool,makea slit alongeacheggplantanduseaspoontoscoopouttheflesh;trytoavoidtheblackskin.Placein a colander anddiscard the rest.Leave to drain for 30minutes to get rid ofsomeoftheliquid.Oncedrained,youshouldhaveroughly11/4lbsofeggplantflesh.
Placetheeggplantfleshinalargebowl.Addthepotatoes,egg,feta,Parmesan,saltandsomepepper.Bringeverythingtogethergentlywithafork;youwanttokeepthemixquiterough.Addabouthalfofthebreadcrumbs,justenoughsothemixissufficientlysolidtoholditsshapebutisstillalittlesticky.
Removethemixfromthebowlanddivideitintofour.Rolleachportionintoathick sausage that is about 1 inch in diameter. Sprinkle the remainingbreadcrumbs on your work surface and roll the sausages in them so they arecompletely coated.Transfer to a tray and leave to firmup in the fridge for atleast20minutes.
Tomake the aioli. Place the egg yolk, garlic, lemon juice and salt in a foodprocessor.Turnthemachineonandaddtheoils,oneaftertheother,inaslow,steadystream.Whentheaioli iscreamyandthicklikemayonnaise, fold in thetarragon.Keepinthefridge.
To cook the croquettes, cut each sausage into 21/4-inch-long barrel-shapedpieces;youshouldendupwithabout20pieces.Pourenough fryingoil intoafrying pan to come about 3/4 inch up the sides. Heat up the oil, then fry thecroquettes in small batches for about 3 minutes, turning them over to colorevenly.Makesuretheoilisalwayshotbutnotsohotthatitburnsthecroquettes.
Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Servehot.
Burnteggplantwithtahini
Thiscanbeapotentdiporcondimentthatyoucanservewithrawvegetablesorto accompany lamb or fish. Or, with the optional chunks of cucumber andtomato, it can be a gloriously refreshing summer salad that exudes MiddleEasternaromas.Youchoose.
Serves2-4
1largeeggplant1/3cuptahinipaste1/4cupwater2tsppomegranatemolasses1tbsplemonjuice1garlicclove,crushed3tbspchoppedparsleysaltandblackpepper3minicucumbers(6to7ozintotal,optional)3/4cupcherrytomatoes(optional)seedsfrom1/2largepomegranatealittleolive
oiltofinish
First,burntheeggplant.Whencoolenoughtohandlescoopoutthefleshintoacolander,avoidingtheblackenedskin.Leavetodrainforatleast30minutes.
Choptheeggplantfleshroughlyandtransfertoamediummixingbowl.Addthetahini,water,pomegranatemolasses, lemonjuice,garlic,parsleyandsomesaltandpepper;mixwellwithawhisk.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,addingmoregarlic, lemonjuiceormolasses ifneeded.Youwant thesalad tohavearobustsour/slightlysweetflavor.
Ifyouwanttoaddcucumberandtomatoes,cutthecucumberslengthwaysinhalfandtheneachhalflengthwaysintwo.Cuteachquarterinto3/8-inch-longpieces.Halvethetomatoes.Stirthemandthecucumberintotheeggplantmix.
Toserve,spreadoverashallowdish,scatterthepomegranateseedsontopand
drizzlewithoil.
Tomatoes
Marinatedbuffalomozzarellaandtomato
This is probably one of the simplest yet finest starters you can offer. There’sonlyonecatch-youringredients.IwouldditchtheideaatonceifIcouldn’tget
aripesummerytomato,juicyandsweetlyintense,atomatothathasneverseenafridgeorachilledtruck,onlysoilandsun.Youcanactuallygetsuchtomatoesifyoulookhardenough.ThebesttomatoIeverhadwashomegrowninthevillageofMonarola in theCinqueTerre, northern Italy. I’ll never forget it.You alsoneedatop-qualitybuffalomozzarella.Servethiswithgoodcrustywhitebread.
Serves4asastarter
Marinade1/2tspfennelseedsgratedzestof1lemon15basilleaves,shredded2tspchoppedoregano2tspbest-qualityextravirginoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tspgrapeseedoil1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper
8to9ozbuffalomozzarella2ripemediumtomatoes(red,yellowormixed)To make the marinade. Scatter the fennel seeds in a small frying pan overmedium heat and dry-roast until they begin to pop. Transfer to a mortar andpestleandcrush roughly.Place thecrushedseeds ina smallbowlandadd theremainingmarinadeingredients.
Breakthemozzarellaroughlywithyourhands.Smearitwiththemarinadeandsetasidefor15to30minutes.
To serve, cut the tomatoes into wedges and plate along with the marinatedmozzarella.Drizzlewithextraoliveoilandserve.
Quinoaandgrilledsourdoughsalad
This summerybread salad isn’tmuch short of awholemeal. I have taken thetraditionalArabfattoush,changedthebreadandbulkeditupwithquinoa,whichistheonlygrainIdaretouseinthissaladasit’sverylightanddelicate.Alotrestshereonthepoortomato.Ifyourtomatoesaresweetandjuicyyoumaynotneed asmuch dressing to perk themup. If they are “dry” and bland youmaywant to add a bit more. Leave the prepared salad to sit a little so the breadcroutonscansoftenup-unlessyouwantthemmega-crunchy.
Serves4
1/4cupquinoa4slicessourdoughbread1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratobrushthebreadsalt4ripemediumtomatoes3smallcucumbers,unpeeled1/2smallredonion,verythinlysliced4tbspchoppedcilantro11/2tbspchoppedmint2tbspchoppedparsley1tbsplemonjuice3/4tbspredwinevinegar2smallgarliccloves,crushedblackpepper
Preheattheovento350°F.Placethequinoainasaucepanofboilingwaterandcookfor9minutes,oruntiltender.Draininafinesieve,rinseundercoldwaterandleavetodry.
Brushthebreadwithalittlebitofoliveoilandsprinklewithsomesalt.Laytheslices on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, turning them overhalfway through.Thebreadshouldbecompletelydryandcrisp.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldown,thenbreakbyhandintodifferent-sizedpieces.
Cut the tomatoes into roughly 3/4-inchdiceandput in amixingbowl.Cut thecucumbers into similar-size pieces and add to the tomatoes. Add all theremaining ingredients, including the quinoa and croutons, and stir gently until
everythingismixedwelltogether.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Tomato,semolinaandcilantrosoup
Straightforward comfort food atmy dad’s homewas simply cooked semolinawithbutterandParmesan.IwaslookingforasoupcontainingsemolinawhenIcameacrossa recipeby thefamousIsraelichef,RafiCohen,whoseMoroccangrandmother made a semolina-based soup (as did my Italian grandmother).Here’smyvariationonhistheme.
Serves6
3tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,finelychopped1celerystalk,roughlychopped2tspgroundcoriander2tspgroundcumin11/2tspsweetpaprika2tspfinelychoppedthyme31/2cupscilantroleaves,roughlychopped2tbsptomatopaste5 medium tomatoes (1 lb in total), peeled and finely chopped salt and black
pepperabout61/2cupswater11/2tbspsugar1cupsemolina11/2tbsplemonjuice(optional)3tbspGreekyogurt(optional)
Heatuptheoliveoilinamediumpot.Addtheonion,celery,groundcoriander,groundcumin,paprika, thymeandhalf thechoppedcilantro.Sautéonmediumheat until the onion is golden and soft. Add the tomato paste and stir for aminute.Add the tomatoesandsomesaltandpepper,andcook fora fewmoreminutes. Add the water and sugar and bring to the boil, then simmer for 20minutes.
Next, add the semolina to the simmering soup in a slow stream as youwhiskvigorously. Keep on cooking for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to avoidlumps (don’t worry if you do get some after all; they will turn into littledumplingswithanappealingtexture).
Beforeserving,addmorewaterifthesoupistoothickforyourliking.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperandthelemonjuice,ifneeded.Ladleintobowls,spoonyogurtontop,ifyoulike,andgarnishwiththeremainingchoppedcilantro.
Tomatoparty
Thepurposeof thissalad is tomakeuseofasmanyaspossibleof the infinitetypesoftomatoesthatareavailablenow.SomeIcookalittle,othersmore,andsome I leave completely raw, tomaximize the “tomatoey” effectwith diverseflavors and textures. Choose whatever tomato selection you can get; the onebelowisjustasuggestion.
Instead of the Sardinian fregola (available from kalustyans.com), you can useArabmograbiah(fromMiddleEasterngrocers)orIsraelicouscous.Orjustleaveoutthefregolaanddoublethequantityofcouscous.
Serves4
3/4cupcouscoussaltoliveoil2/3cupboilingwater1cupfregola3mediumvine-ripenedtomatoes,quartered3/4tspbrownsugarblackpepper1tspbalsamicvinegar1cupyellowcherrytomatoes,halved2tbsproughlychoppedoregano2tbsproughlychoppedtarragon3tbsproughlychoppedmint1garlicclove,crushed1smallgreentomato,cutintothinwedges3/4cupredcherrytomatoes,halvedPreheattheovento325°F.Putthecouscousinabowlwithapinchofsaltandadrizzleofoil.Pourover theboilingwater, stirandcover thebowlwithplasticwrap.Setasidefor12minutes,thenremovetheplasticwrap,separatethegrainswithaforkandleavetocool.
Placethefregolainapanofboilingsaltedwaterandsimmerfor18minutes,oruntilaldente.Draininacolanderandrinseundercoldrunningwater.Leavetodrycompletely.
Meanwhile,spreadthequarteredvinetomatoesoverhalfofalargebakingpanand sprinkle with the sugar and some salt and pepper. Drizzle the balsamicvinegar and some oil over the top. Place in the oven.After about 20minutesremovefromtheovenandincreasethetemperatureto400°F.Ontheemptysideofthebakingpan,spreadtheyellowtomatoes.Seasonthemwithsaltandpepperanddrizzleoversomeoil.Returntotheovenandroastfor12minutes.Removethetomatoesandallowtocooldown.
Mix together the couscous and fregola in a large bowl.Add the herbs, garlic,cooked tomatoes with all their juices, the green tomato and cherry tomatoes.Verygentlymixtogetherusingyourhands.Tasteforseasoning:youmightneedtoaddsalt,pepperandsomeoliveoil.
Quesadillas
Whileallthemeat-eatersarescoffingsmokyjointsofthis,thatortheother,trythisMexicansandwichasavegetarianbarbecuedish.
Serves4
Blackbeanpaste11/2cupscookedblackbeans(cannedarefine)1tspgroundcoriander1/2tspgroundcumin1/4tspcayennepepper1bunchcilantro(leavesandstalks,
about1oz),choppedjuiceof1lime1/4tspsaltSalsa1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 green onions,
thinlysliced5mediumtomatoes,diced1garlicclove,crushed1mildfreshredchile,finelydiced1 bunch of cilantro (leaves and stalks, about 1 oz), finely chopped, plus extra
leavestogarnish3/4tspsaltjuiceof1/2lime2ripemediumavocados,diced
8smalltortillas(preferablycorn)3/4cupsourcream41/2ozgood-qualitysharpCheddar,grated6tbspdrainedand
roughlychoppedpickledjalapeñosTomaketheblackbeanpaste.Placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessorandquicklypulseuntilaroughpastehasformed.
Makethesalsa.Firstsoaktheredonioninthevinegarinalargebowlforafewminutes.Thenaddalloftheotheringredientsandstirwell.
Preparethebarbecue,orheataridgedgriddlepan.
Take one of the tortillas and spread with 2 tablespoons of the bean paste,creatingalargecircleinthecenterbutleavingabout3/4inchclearallaroundat
theedge.Overonehalfofthebeancirclespreadatablespoonofsourcream,asprinkle of Cheddar, a tablespoon of salsa and some jalapeños. Fold over theothertortillahalf.
Tocook,gentlyplacethequesadillasonthebarbecue,oroneatatimeonthehotgriddlepan.Leavefor2to3minutes,thenturnandcookfor2to3minutesontheotherside.Thefillingshouldbewarmandthetortillanicelycharred.
Cuteachtortilla intotwoatanangleandtransfer toaservingdish.Spoonanyremainingsalsaalongsideandgarnishwithcilantroleaves.
Herb-stuffedtomatoes
This Provençal-style starter is quick to prepare. Serve it with a little salad ofseasonalleavesandafewbrokenpiecesofrobustgoatcheese.
Serves4asasmallstarter
4mediumtomatoes(ripebutfirm)salt1largeonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,finelychopped12wrinklyblackolives,pittedandroughlychopped2tbspoliveoil1/4cuppanko2tbspchoppedoregano3tbspchoppedparsley1tbspchoppedmint11/2tbspchoppedcapersblackpepper
Preheattheovento325°F.Trimoffabout3/8inchfromthetopofeachtomatoanddiscard.Usealittlespoonoramelonballertoremovetheseedsandmostoftheflesh,leavingacleanshell.Lightlysalttheinsideofthetomatoesandplaceupsidedowninacolander,todrainoffsomemoisture.
Meanwhile,puttheonion,garlic,olivesand1tablespoonoftheoilinamediumpan and cook on lowheat for 5 to 6minutes, to soften the onion completely.Remove from the heat and stir in the panko, herbs, capers and some pepper.Tasteandaddsalt,ifyoulike.
Wipetheinsidesofthetomatoeswithapapertowel,thenfillthemupwiththeherb stuffing,pressingdownverygently asyougo.Youwant anicedomeofstuffingontop.
Place the tomatoes in a greased ovenproof dish and drizzle lightly with theremainingoil.Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthetomatoessoften.Servehotorwarm.
Leaves,CookedandRaw
Bakedeggswithyogurtandchile
Here’smyideaofcomfortfoodandaperfectSundaybrunchtreat.Itisinspiredbyçılbır,whichisTurkishpoachedeggswithyogurt.Itcallsforkırmızıbiber,acommonTurkishspicemadefromcrushedchilesthathavebeenrubbedwithoiland often roasted. TheTurks use it as a general condiment and also add it tomeltedbutter togivethefinal touchtomanydishes.Kırmızıbiberhasasweetaroma and can vary in spiciness. You can get it from Turkish grocers orkalustyans.com. Alternatively, use plain chile flakes mixed with some sweetpaprika.
Serves2
3/4lb(about14cups)arugula2tbspoliveoilsalt4eggs3/4cupGreekyogurt1garlicclove,crushed4tbspunsaltedbutter1/2tspkırmızıbiber6sageleaves,shredded
Preheattheovento300°F.Placethearugulaandoilinalargepan,addsomesaltandsautéonamediumheatforabout5minutes,oruntil thearugulawiltsandmostoftheliquidhasevaporated.
Transfer to a small ovenproof dish and make four deep indentations in thearugula.Carefullybreakan egg into eachhollow, takingcarenot tobreak theyolk.Placeintheoventocookfor10to15minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesareset. (Alternatively, divide the arugula into small pans and cook two eggs ineach.)
Whiletheeggsareintheoven,mixtheyogurtwiththegarlicandapinchofsalt.Stirwellandsetaside;donotchill.
Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan.Addthekırmızıbiberandapinchofsaltandfryfor1to2minutes,oruntilthebutterstartstofoamandturnsanicegolden-red.Addthesageandcookforafewmoreseconds.Removefromtheheat.
Oncetheeggsarecookedtakethemoutoftheoven.Spoontheyogurtoverthecenter, and pour the hot chile butter over the yogurt and eggs. Serveimmediately.
Chardandsaffronomelettes
Anybodywho’sbeenfollowingmywritingcouldn’thelpnoticinghowmuchIcarry on about chard. These wonderful leaves belong to the same family asbeets.Whenpickedsmalltheymakeagreatcontributiontoleafysalads,bothinflavorandwiththeirmagnificentredhue.Butitisthelarge,maturedeep-greenleaves-withstalksrangingfromwhite,toyellow,toredandorange-thatIlovesomuch.TheyareinseasonfromJunetoAugust,andhaveasharpandearthyflavor,nottoodominantbutperfectlyrecognizable.
Bothchardstalksandleavesareedible,althoughthestalksnormallytakeabitlongertocook.InmostcasesIslicethestalksthinlyandtheleavesabitwider,thenthrowthestalksintoapanandsautéorblanchfor3minutesbeforeaddingthe leavesandcookingthrough.Here, though,Istart themoff togetheras theyarecookedforalongtimeanyway.
Serves4
1/2lb(1medium)waxypotato,peeledandcutinto3/8-inchdice1cupwaterpinchofsaffronthreads3/4lbSwisschard(stalksandleaves),shreddedsaltandpepper2tbsplemonjuice1garlicclove,crushed5eggs1/4cupmilk2/3cupchoppedherbs(tarragon,dill,parsley)vegetableoil1/2cupcrèmefraîche,coldPutthepotatoes,waterandsaffroninalargepanandbringtotheboil.Simmerfor4minutes,thenaddthechardandsomesaltandpepper.Continuecooking,covered, for10 to15minutes,oruntil thepotato is soft.Drainoutanyexcessliquidthatisleftinthepan.Offtheheat,addthelemonjuiceandgarlic.Leavetocool.
Whisk together well the eggs, milk, herbs and some salt and pepper. Pour 1teaspoonofoilintoahot,9-inchnonstickfryingpan,thenuseone-quarteroftheeggmix tomake a thin round omelette. Transfer to paper towels.Make threemoreomelettesinthesameway.Leavetocooldown.
Dividethecoldcrèmefraîcheamongtheomelettes,spreadingitoveronehalfofeach.Tastethechardmixandadjusttheseasoning,thenspreadgenerouslyoverthecrèmefraîche.Foldeachomeletteover inhalf, thenfoldagain togetafanshape.Allowthechardmixtoshowattheopenside.Arrangetheomelettesinalightlyoiledovenproofdishoronabakingsheet.(Keepinthefridgeifmakingahead.)Whenreadytoserve,preheattheovento325°F.Placetheomelettesintheovenfor5to8minutes,oruntilhot.Serveatonce.
Lettucesalad
Itisessentialforeverygoodcooktohaveasolidlettucesaladuptheirsleeve,agood in-between course to cleanse the palate and lighten the spirits. This oneshoulddothetrick;italsomakesforagoodstarter.
Iamnotveryfondofsun-dried tomatoes,particularlynotforsalads- theyareharsh,bothinflavorandtexture-butIlovesemi-driedtomatoes.Youcanmakethem yourself and store in olive oil for quite some time, or buy one of thecommercial varieties that go by funny names such as “sun-blushed” or “sun-kissed.”
Serves4
Dressing1garlicclove,crushed11/2tbsplemonjuice11/2tbspoliveoil1tbspgrapeseedoil
saltandblackpepper
1headofbutterlettuce,leavesseparated1/2headofcurlylettuce,leavesseparated1headofradicchio,leavesseparated3greenonions,greenandwhiteparts,slicedthinlyonasharpangle20radishes,
trimmedandcutinto1/8-inch-thickslices2cupssemi-driedtomatoes,wholeorroughlytorn2tbspcapers,wholeifsmallorveryroughlychopped
To make the dressing. In a small bowl whisk together the ingredients, beingquitegenerouswiththesaltandpepper.
Washthelettuceleaves,drywellandkeepwholeortearintolargepieces.Placein a large mixing bowl and add the radicchio, green onions, radishes andtomatoes.
Justbeforeserving,pourthedressingoverthesaladandtossgently.Transfertoalargemixingbowlandsprinklethecapersoverthetop.
Swisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstew
Ialwayswanttoaddsharpnesstoslow-cooked,stewy-typedishes,somethingtobreak down the heavy seriousness of the dish and introduce a little refreshingedge to it - a bit of humor even. The Italians invented gremolata - choppedgarlic,parsleyandlemonzest-whichtheyusetofinishoffthefamousossobucoallamilanese.Here, though, I don’t reallyneed this kindof thing as I includeheapsofsharpnessinthedishfromthestart,intheformoftamarindandchard.Still,Ican’tresistthetemptationofalittlelemonjuiceattheend,justincase;some chile flakes will also give it a kick if you want to add them. This is aperfectmaincourseforwhenitgetsabitcloudy.
Serves4
4tbspseedlesstamarindpulp1lbSwisschard(stalksandleaves),cutinto3/8-inchslices11/2tspcorianderseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced2tspcarawayseeds11/2tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1tsptomatopasteone14-ozcanchoppedplumtomatoes,withtheirjuices11/2cupswater11/2tbspsugar21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or a 14-oz can, drained) salt and black
pepperjuiceof1lemon1cupGreekyogurt(optional)generoushandfulofcilantroleaves13/4cupsshort-grainrice11/2tbspbutter3cupswater
Startbywhiskingthetamarindwithabout3tablespoonsofwarmwateruntilitdissolvesintoapaste.Setaside.
Bring a medium pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the chard for 2minutes.Draininacolander.
Dry-roastthecorianderseedsinasmallpanovermediumheat,thengrindtoapowderwithamortarandpestle.
Next,puttheonion,carawayseedsandoliveoilinalargeheavypanandsautéonmediumheatforabout10minutes,oruntiltheonionissoftandgolden.Addthe tomato paste and stir as you cook it for about a minute. Add the cannedtomatoes, water, sugar, chickpeas, ground coriander, chard and some salt andpepper.
Strain the tamarindwater throughasmallsieveinto thepan.Bringto theboil,thencoverwithalidandleavetosimmerforabout30minutes.Whenready,thedishshouldhavetheconsistencyofa thicksoup.Youcanadjust thiseitherbyaddingmorewaterorsimmeringuncoveredsotheexcessliquidcanevaporate.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifneeded.
Whilethestewiscooking,puttherice,butterandabitofsaltinamediumpanandsetonamediumheat.Stir tocoat the ricewithbutter.Add thewaterandbringtotheboil,thencoverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandleavetosimmeronalowflamefor15to20minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavecoveredfor5minutes.
When ready to serve, spoon the rice into shallow soupbowls, creatinga largecraterinthecenter.Addthelemonjuicetothestewandstir,thenputaladleortwointo themiddleof therice ineachbowl.Spoonyogurtontop, ifyoulike.Drizzlewithoilandfinishwithplentyofcilantroleaves.
Chardcakeswithsorrelsauce
The cheese I use in these splendid cakes is kashkaval, of which there aredifferentregionalvarietiesallovertheBalkans.ThereisalsoanItalianversioncalled caciocavallo.Kashkaval is normallymade from sheep’smilk and has atangyyetnutty flavor.Youcanget it fromAraborTurkishgrocers.Chooseastrong and less industrialized variety. If you can’t get it, replace withmature
pecorino.
Youdon’tnecessarilyhavetomakethesauceasthecakesworkperfectlywellaccompaniedwithjustawedgeoflemon.Still,ifyouchoosetomakeit(andIcan’trecommenditenough)you’llbeable tokeepit in thefridgeforadayortwo and serve it with a million other things - roasted root vegetables, heartylentils,redmeatandoilyfish.
Serves4asastarter
Sauce3cupssorrelleaves,washed1/2cupGreekyogurt1garlicclove,crushed2tbspoliveoil1/2tspDijonmustardsalt
11/4lbsSwisschard1/3cuppinenuts1tbspoliveoil4ozkashkavalcheese,coarselygrated1egg6tbspdriedwhitebreadcrumbs1/4tspsaltblackpepperhalf-and-halfvegetableoilandoliveoilforfrying
Tomakethesauce.Placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessororablenderandblitz toa finebright-greensauce.Tasteandadjust theamountofsalt.Keep inthefridgeuntilneeded.
Cut thewoodywhite stalks from the green chard leaves.Bring a large panofwatertotheboil.Addthestalksandsimmerfor4minutes.Thenaddtheleaves,stir and continue simmering for 3minutes.Drain the chard and allow to cooldown slightly.Oncecool enough tohandle, squeeze asmuchwateroutof thechardaspossible.Youneedtousebothhandsandbequiteforceful todothis.Next,choptheleavesandstalksroughlyandputinamixingbowl.
Ina smallpan fry thepinenuts in the tablespoonofoliveoil for1minute,oruntillightbrown(watchout;theydarkeninseconds).Addthenutsandoiltothechard, followedby the cheese, egg,breadcrumbs, salt and somepepper. If themixisverysoftandstickyyoumightneedtoaddmorecrumbs.
Pourenoughfryingoilintoafryingpantocome1/4inchupthesides.Shapethechardmix into eight patties that are roughly2 inches in diameter and58 inchthick.Frythemforabout3minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Transferontopapertowelstoabsorbtheoil.Servewarmoratroomtemperature,withthesauceontheside.
Greenpancakeswithlimebutter
ThisrecipebroughtlotsofcomplimentsroundmywayafterIfirstpublisheditin2008.Iguessthesepancakesaresocomfortingtheysomehowtakeyoubackto your childhood, when the joy of textures and flavors is still pure andunadulterated.Brunchistheidealmealforthem,servedwithasaladofseasonalleavesandpossiblyalsoasliceoffreshlygrilledhalloumiorapieceofsmokedfish.
Somelimebutterwillprobablybeleftover.Keepitinthefridgeandthensmearitoverabakedsweetpotato.
Serves3-4
Limebutter8tbsp(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperaturegratedzestof1lime11/2tbsplimejuice1/4tspsalt1/2tspwhitepepper1tbspchoppedcilantro1/2garlicclove,finelychopped1/4tspchileflakes1/2 lb (about 8 cups) spinach, washed 3/4 cup self-rising flour 1 tbsp baking
powder
1egg4tbspunsaltedbutter,melted1/2tspsalt1tspgroundcumin2/3cupmilk6mediumgreenonions,finelysliced2freshgreenchiles,thinlysliced1eggwhiteoliveoilforfrying
Tomake the lime butter. Put the butter in amedium bowl and beat it with awoodenspoonuntil it turnssoftandcreamy.Stir in therestof the ingredients.Tipontoasheetofplasticwrapandrollintoasausageshape.Twisttheendsofthewraptosealtheflavoredbutter.Chilluntilfirm.
Wiltthespinachinapanwithasplashofwater.Draininasieveand,whencool,squeezehardwithyourhandstoremoveasmuchmoistureaspossible.Roughlychopandputaside.
Puttheflour,bakingpowder,wholeegg,meltedbutter,salt,cuminandmilkinalargemixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the green onions, chiles andspinachandmixwithafork.Whisktheeggwhitetosoftpeaksandgentlyfolditintothebatter.
Pourasmallamountofoliveoilintoaheavyfryingpanandplaceonmedium-highheat.Foreachpancake,ladle2tablespoonsofbatterintothepanandpressdowngently.Youshouldgetsmallishpancakes,about3inchesindiameterand3/8 inchthick.Cookforabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilyougetagoodgolden-greencolor.Transfer topaper towelsandkeepwarm.Continuemakingpancakes,addingoiltothepanasneeded,untilthebatterisusedup.
Toserve,pileupthreewarmpancakesperpersonandplaceasliceofflavoredbutterontoptomelt.
Watercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsalad
Iwouldeitherstartamealorenditwiththissalad.Itisanidealpalate-cleanserwith its robust yet refreshingherb flavors.Or, you could serve it to balance along-cookedorrichmaincourse,suchastheSmokyfrittata.Anotherideaistoadd spoonfuls of buffalo ricotta to transform the salad into amore substantialstarter.
It is essential to dress the salad as you serve it and not a second earlier: thedelicate herbs wilt in an instant when they come in contact with the acidicdressing.
Serves4
Dressing4tbspoliveoil11/2tbsplemonjuice(ormoreifyoulikeitverysour)1tsporange-flowerwater
saltandblackpepper31/2cupswatercress,thickstalksremovedscant1cupbasilleaves11/2cupscilantroleaves1/4cupdill1/4 cup tarragon leaves 1/3 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted and
coarselycrushedTo make the dressing. In a little bowl whisk together all of the dressingingredients.
Placethewatercressandherbsinalargemixingbowlandsetasideuntilyouarereadytoservethesalad(youcanleavetheminthefridgeinanairtightcontainerforafewhours).
Just before serving, pour the dressing and the pistachios over the leaves, tossgentlyandserveimmediately.
Egg,spinachandpecorinopizza
Thisstartedoffasatakeonmanakish,aLevantineflatbreadtoppedwithza’atarandoftenalsocontaininghalloumi-stylecheeseormincedlamb.Myversionisso far removed from the original that it doesn’t warrant the use of the name.Still, the za’atar and sumac give this “pizza” an earthyMiddle Eastern kick,reminiscentofthearomascomingfrombreadstallsinEastJerusalem.
You’llprobablyfinditdifficulttofitthesixindividualpizzasintoyourovenallatonce:you’dneedthreebakingsheetslargeenoughtotaketwopizzaseach.Ifyou haven’t got them, bake the individual pizzas in batches or make threedouble-sizedpizzas.
Serves6(makes6individualpizzas)
21/2 tspdriedyeast13/4cups tepidwater (nohotter than86°F)51/2cupswhitebreadflour,plusextrafordusting11/4tspsalt
1/3cupoliveoil2lbsspinach,washed1lbpecorino,grated11/2tbspsumac11/2tbspza’atarcoarsesaltandblackpepper6eggs
Dissolve the yeast in thewater.Add to the flour togetherwith the salt and 2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil.Kneadbyhandorinaheavyelectricmixerfor8to10minutes,addingalittlebitmoreflourifthedoughissticky;itshouldbecomesmoothandsilky.Brushalargebowlwithabitofoil,putthedoughinsideandcoverwithawettowel.Leavetoriseinawarmishplacefor1to2hours,oruntilthedoughdoublesinsize.
Whenready,dividethedoughintosixsimilarlysizedpieces.Usearollingpintoroll each into a disc that is roughly 1/4 inch thick and 7 inches in diameter.Transfertobakingsheetsdustedwithabitofflourandleavetoriseagaininawarmplaceforabout30minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wilt the spinach in a large saucepan with 4tablespoonsoftheoliveoil.Allowtocooldown,thensqueezeoutalltheliquidfromthespinach.
Scatterthecheeseevenlyoverthepizzabasesandspreadthespinachoverthis,making a slightwell in the center to break the egg into later on. Sprinkle thesumac, za’atar andblackpepperon top.Drizzle about11/2 teaspoonsoliveoilovereachpizza.
Bakefor12to15minutes,oruntil thecrust turnsanicebrown.Removefromtheovenandquicklybreakawholeeggintothecenterofeachpizza.Useaforkto spread thewhite around, keeping the yolkwhole. Sprinklewith coarse saltandreturntotheoventobakefor5minutes,orjustuntilthewhitessetbuttheyolksarestillrunny.Serveatonce.
CaramelizedendivewithGruyère
WhenIfirstpublishedthisrecipeintheGuardianin2007IusedTaleggioandwas perfectly happywith it. Still, when I tried the dish again for this book Idecided to double-check which cheese variety worked best. Taleggio was awinner for its creaminess and its ability to penetrate in between the endiveleaves.But I choseGruyère in theendbecause itspiquant flavorworksbetterwith the endive’s bitterness. You can now make your choice. Another, lesscheesyoptionisraclette,whichwasborntomelt.
Serves4
1tbspoliveoil11/2tbspbutter1/2tspsugarsalt4endives,cutinhalflengthways2tspthymeleaves,finelychopped7ozGruyère,sliced
11/2tspfreshbreadcrumbsblackpepper
Preheattheovento375°F.Placeaheavy,flatpanonmediumheat.Addtheoil,butter,sugarandapinchofsalt,andallowtoheatup.
Placetheendivehalves,cut-sidedown,inthepan.Donotmovethemfor3to5minutes, or until they turn deep golden. (You might need to do this in twobatchesastheendivesneedspace.)Removefromtheheat.Transfertheendivehalves to a small ovenproof dish, arranging them cut-side up, close together.Sprinklewithhalfthethyme.Placetheslicesofcheeseontopandsprinklewiththerestofthethyme.
Placeintheoventobakefor8to12minutes,oruntilthecheesestartstobubble.Removefromtheoven.Sprinklewiththebreadcrumbsandsomeblackpepper.Return to the oven, increase the temperature to 400°F and bake for 5 to 7minutes,oruntilthebreadcrumbsbrown.Servehot.
Grapeleaf,herbandyogurtpie
Whenever Iwalk into a bookshop I findmyself in the cookery sectionwithinseconds;it’sanurgeIcan’tcontrol.OnarecentvisittoasecondhandbookshopinHay-on-Wye,thecapitalofbookshops,Icameacrossarealtreasure,ClassicTurkishCookerybyGhillieBaan,publishedin1995.Thisbookoffersafantasticintroductiontooneof theworld’smostaccomplishedcuisinesandit ispackedfull of recipes you just know youmust try. It is there that I came across thisunusual savory cake originating from the Turkish part of Cyprus. It makes asubstantialsnackoralightstarter.ServewithBurntEggplantwithTahini.
Serves4
20to25grapeleaves(freshorfromajar)4shallots,finelychopped4tbspoliveoil11/2tbspunsaltedbutter,melted1cupGreekyogurt,plusextratoserve
21/2tbsppinenuts,lightlytoasted1/2tbspfinelychoppedtarragon2tbspfinelychoppedparsley
3tbspfinelychoppeddill4tbspfinelychoppedmintgratedzestof1lemon1tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper1/2cupriceflour3tbspdriedbreadcrumbs(preferablypanko)
Preheattheovento375°F.Placethegrapeleavesinashallowbowl,coverwithboilingwaterandleavefor10minutes.Thenremovetheleavesfromthewateranddrythemwellwithateatowel.Usescissorstotrimoffanddiscardthebitofhardstalkatthebaseofeachleaf.
Sauté the shallots in1 tablespoonof theoil for about8minutes,oruntil lightbrown.Leavetocooldown.
Takea roundandshallowovenproofdish that is roughly8 inches indiameter,andcoveritsbottomandsideswithgrapeleaves,slightlyoverlappingthemandallowingtheleavestohangovertherimofthedish.Mixthemeltedbutterwith2 tablespoonsofoliveoil;useabout two-thirdsof this togenerouslybrush theleavesliningthedish.
Mixtogetherinabowltheshallots,yogurt,pinenuts,choppedherbsandlemonzestandjuice,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Thenaddthericeflourandmixwelluntilyougetahomogenouspaste.Spreadthispasteevenlyinthebakingdish.
Foldtheoverhanginggrapeleavesbackoverthetopofthefillingsotheycoverthe edges, then cover the filling completely with the remaining grape leaves.Brushwith the rest of the butter andoilmix.Finally, scatter the breadcrumbsoverthetopanddrizzleovertheremaining1tablespoonoliveoil.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until the leaves crisp up and the breadcrumbs turn
goldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast10minutes.Cut intowedges and servewarmish or at room temperature,with a dollop offreshyogurt.
NuttyendivewithRoquefort
Youreallyneedtogetyourhandsdirtyhere.Theflavoredcrèmefraîchehastocover every bit of endive leaf in order to flavor it properly, because endive’sfresh,wateryandslightlybitternatureasksforalotofrichdressing.OntopofthatIaddbutter-toastednuts,awelcomeadditiontoalmostanysalad,tomakethisatrulysumptuousstarter.
A note about Roquefort and other European cheeses: as a general rule, mostcontinental cheeses use rennet, a cluster of enzymes taken from animals’stomachsthatcausesmilktocoagulateandeventuallyformintocheese.Britishcheeses tend to be based on vegetarian alternatives to rennet. Here, as in allrecipeswithcheese,Iencourageastrictvegetariantocheckthoroughlywhetherthevarietyiscompletelyvegetarianand,ifnot,tolookforalternatives;thesecanoftenbefoundonline.
Serves4asastarter
13/4 oz Roquefort or another strong blue cheese 3/4 cup crème fraîche whitepepper
1/3cuproughlychoppedpinenuts1/3cuproughlychoppedwalnuts1tspbuttersalt2endivesafewleavesofradicchio,Trevisoorbabychard
Grate the Roquefort on a coarse grater and place in a bowl with the crèmefraîche and some white pepper. Use a whisk to mix thoroughly to a thickmixture.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Inahotfryingpanlightlytoastthenutswiththebutterandpinchofsalt.Keepshakingthepantogetanevengoldencoloronallthenuts.Leavetocool.
Trim thebaseof theendivesandpickoff theouter leaves.Trimabitmore toremovemoreleavesuntilyougettothecore.Usingyourhands,smeareachleafwithplentyof theRoquefortmix.Formbundlesof six to eight leavespressedtogether,eachleafpartlyencasedinalargerone.
Lineaservingdishwithsomeredleaves.Placeafewbundlesofendiveontop,stackingthemorleaningthemstandingagainsteachother.Sprinklegenerouslywiththetoastednutsandserve.
Bittersweetsalad
I don’t usually celebrate Valentine’s Day. This is due to cowardly cynicism,combinedwith a firmbelief that you cannot just create amomentous intimateoccasion,especiallywhenmillionsofothercouplesaretryingtodoexactlythesame.Itjustfeelsabitclaustrophobic.Butifyoutwistedmyarmandforcedmeto,IguessIwouldchoosethissaladtocelebratetheday,representingthemorerealisticflavorsoflove:bitterandsweet.
The themehere is red.For thissaladI’dgooutofmyway tofindanexcitingcombinationofredleavesandherbs.Ilovethelong,twistedredleavesofsomevarieties of radicchio di Treviso. Red orach, purple basil, red amaranth andbull’sblood(red)chardarealsostunningleaves.Sometinysproutingvarieties,
suchasradishorpurplebasil,willalsoaddcharacter.
Serves2(ofcourse)
2bloodoranges(orplainoranges)bloodorangejuiceasneeded11/4tbsplemonjuice1/4cupmaplesyrupcoarseseasalt1/2tsporange-flowerwater1/2smallradicchio1smallTreviso,leavesseparated1tbspoliveoilblackpepperhandfulofsmallredleaves3/4cupgood-qualityricotta2tbsppinenuts,toastedseedsfrom1smallpomegranate
Takeeachof thebloodorangesin turnanduseasmallsharpknife tosliceoffthe top and base. Now cut down the side of the orange, following its naturalcurve,toremovetheskinandwhitepith.Overasmallbowl,cutinbetweenthemembranes to remove the individual segments into the bowl. Squeeze all thejuicefromthemembraneandskinintoasmallsaucepan.
Makeup the juice in thepan to7 tbspwithextrabloodorange juice.Add thelemonjuice,maplesyrupandapinchofsaltandbringtoalightsimmer.Leavetoreducefor20to25minutes,oruntilyouareleftwithabout3tablespoonsofthicksyrup.Strainitthroughafinesieveandallowtocooldown,thenstirintheorange-flowerwater.
Pullaparttheradicchioleavesandtearthemroughlyintolargepieces.Putintoamixing bowl. Add the Treviso leaves, oil and some salt and pepper, and tossgently.Dividethesaladleavesbetweentwoservingplates.Dotwiththeorangesegments, small red leaves and spoonfuls of ricotta, building the salad up.Drizzlewiththeorangesyrupandfinishwithpinenutsandpomegranateseeds.
GreenThings
Cucumbersaladwithsmashedgarlicandginger
Ihaveaterriblehabitofaddingyogurtorsourcreamtoalmostanythingthat’sbeen cooking for a long time, has got a lot of heat, is slightly greasy or just
seems a bit heavy tome. Terrible - because I know not everyone is keen onaddingdairyproducts left, rightandcenter,particularlynot toaperfectlynicedishofpulses,aspicyvegetablesteworaroastedcutofleanmeat.Sohere’saperfectalternative,adishshoutingfreshness thatwouldgowellwithplentyofheartydishes.TryitwithSweetPotatoCakesorwithCoconutRicewithSambalandOkra.
Serves4-6asacondimentorasidedish
Dressing3tbspricewinevinegar2tspsugar2tbspsunfloweroil2tsptoastedsesameoil
1smallredonion,verythinlysliced11/2inchesfreshginger,peeledandsliced1tspMaldonseasalt2largegarliccloves,peeled4small(or8mini)cucumbers(11/4lbs),peeled1tbsptoastedsesameseeds3tbspchoppedcilantro
Tomakethedressing.Whisktogetherall thedressingingredientsinamediummixingbowl.
Addtheslicedredonion,mixwellandleaveasidetomarinateforaboutanhour.
Placethegingerandsaltinamortarandpoundwellwithapestle.Addthegarlicandcontinuepoundinguntilitisalsowellcrushedandbrokenintopieces(stoppounding before it disintegrates into a paste). Use a spatula to scrape thecontentsofthemortarintothebowlwiththeonionanddressing.Stirtogether.
Cut thecucumbers lengthways inhalf, thencuteachhalfonanangle into1/4-inch-thickslices.Addthecucumbertothebowl,followedbythesesameseedsandcilantro.Stirwellandleavetositfor10minutes.
Before serving, stir the salad again, tip out some of the liquid that hasaccumulatedatthebottomofthebowlandadjusttheseasoning.
Lemonyglobeartichokes
This is amajestic dish, perfect for startingoff a light summer’s supper.Eat itwarmoratroomtemperature,onitsownorwithsomegoodmayonnaise.
Serves4
4mediumglobeartichokes4lemons,halved3/4cupdill,finelychopped1/2cuptarragon(leavesandstalks),finelychopped
1/2cupparsley(leavesandstalks),finelychopped1onion,finelychoppedsaltandblackpepper6tbspoliveoil13/4cupsgreenpeas(freshorfrozen)1/2tspsugar1garlicclove,crushed
Trimofftheartichokestalksclosetothebase,sothatlatertheycansitflatinthepan.Tearoffanddiscardthethickouterleaves,thenuseasmallsharpknifetotrimandtidythebase.Cuteachartichokeverticallyinhalf.Removeanddiscardthehairychokeandsomeoftheinternalpurpleleaves,tocreateacavityintheheartoftheartichoke.Ruballthecutsurfacesimmediatelywiththejuiceofonelemonandplaceinabowlofcoldwater.
Mix the chopped herbs and onion with plenty of salt and pepper. Drain theartichokesandstuffthecavityineachhalfwiththeherbmixsothatitisfullbutlevelled.Keeptheexcessstuffing.Reshapeeachartichokeandusestringtotiethehalvesbacktogetherclosely.
Stand the four reconstructed artichokes in a saucepan just big enough to holdthem close together.Add the juice of two lemons, the squeezed lemon halvesandplentyofsalt.Fillwithwateralmosttocovertheartichokes,leavingthetop1/4inchoutofthewater.Simmeronlowheatfor20to35minutes,makingsuretheartichokebottomsarealwaysimmersedinwater(keepthepancoverediftheartichokesarenottoobig;otherwisetopupwithwaterduringthecooking).To
checkiftheyaredone,stickinaknifeatthebase.Theartichokeheartshouldbesoftthroughout.Gentlylifttheartichokesfromthepanandleavetodrainfor5minutes.
Meanwhile,sautétheremainingstuffingwith4tablespoonsoftheoliveoilforabout3minutes.Addthepeas,sugar,garlicand5tablespoonsoftheartichokecookingliquid.Cookfor2minutesmore,thentasteandaddsaltandpepperasneeded.Addthejuiceoftheremaininglemon(ormoreifyoulike).
Transfer thewarmartichokes to servingplates and remove the string.Pile thelemonypeasontop,drizzlegenerouslywithoilandserve.
Asparagus,fennelandbeetswithverjus
Verjus,orverjuice,isasourjuicemadefromunripegrapes.ItwasverypopularinmedievaltimesandisstillusedformakingsaucesinafewtraditionalFrenchdishes. I was reminded of it by Ramael Scully, the former evening chef ofOttolenghi in Islington.Scully trainedas a chef inAustralia,whereverjushasbeenregainingpopularity in recentyearsasanalternative tovinegar insaucesand dressings, mainly thanks to the food writer Maggie Beer. Here, reducedverjus,withitssweetnessandmildacidity,workswonderswithrawvegetables.
Serves4asastarter
4minibeets(about1/4lb)11/3cupsverjus4tbspgrapeseedoilsaltandblackpepper4to5ozfreshpencil-thinasparagus,ornormalasparagus1/2 large fennelbulb (1/4 lb),halvedvertically1/4cuppinenuts, toasted1 tbsp
dillleavestogarnish
Preheattheovento400°F.Trimmostofthestalkfromthebeets,leavingalittleat the topof eachbeet for the look.Put them into anovenproofdish, cover itwithfoilandbakeforabout45minutes,oruntil thebeetsarecookedthrough.Remove from the oven and leave to cool down before cutting into halves orquarters(youmaywanttopeelthemiftheskinistough).
Pour the verjus into a small saucepan, bring to a light simmer and leave it toreduce to about 3 tablespoons. Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow to cooldown,thenwhiskinthegrapeseedoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Putaside.
Ifusingnormalasparagus,cutthespearsonasharpangleintolongandverythinslices,oruseapotatopeelertomake“shavings.”Placethefennelhalfcut-sidedownonamandolinandshaveintopaper-thinslices.Thesliceswillhaveahandshape.
To assemble, arrange the vegetables on small serving plates. Scatter the pinenutsontopanddrizzleoverthedressing.Garnishwithdillandserve.
Caramelizedfennelwithgoatcheese
Goat’s curd, a light cheesemade from goat’s milk, is known for its soft andcreamy, yet not terribly unctuous, texture and for itswonderful freshness. It’shardtoget,though.You’llwanttoaskaroundatyourlocalfarmers’marketoragoodcheeseshop.
Still, there is no need to get despondent if you can’t find it. There is anabundanceofyoungand freshgoatcheeses thatwilldo the trickequallywell.MyfavoriteisCaprinifreschi,fromPiedmontinItaly.
Serves4
4smallfennelbulbs31/2tbspunsaltedbutter3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tbspsugar1tspfennelseedscoarseseasaltandblackpepper1garlicclove,crushed3/4 cup roughly chopped dill (leaves and stalks) 5 oz young and creamy goat
cheesegratedzestof1lemon
Startbypreparingthefennelbulbs.Firsttakeofftheleafyfrondsandkeepthemfor thegarnish.Then sliceoff someof the rootpart and removeany toughorbrown outer layers, making sure the base still holds everything together. Cuteachbulblengthwaysinto1/2-inch-thickslices.
Melthalfthebutterwithhalftheoilinalargefryingpanplacedoverhighheat.Whenthebutterstartstofoamaddalayerofslicedfennel.Donotovercrowdthepananddon’tturnthefenneloverorstiritaroundinthepanuntilonesidehasbecomelightgolden,whichwilltakeabout2minutes.Thenturntheslicesoverusing tongs and cook for a further 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan.Continuewiththerestofthefennel,usinguptheremainingbutterandoil.
Onceall the fennelhasbeen seared, add the sugar, fennel seedsandplentyofsaltandpeppertothepan.Fryfor30seconds,thenreturnallthefennelslicestothepanandcaramelizethemgentlyfor1to2minutes(theyneedtoremainfirminsidesojustallowthemtobecoatedinthemeltingsugarandseeds).Removethefennelfromthepanandleavetocooldownonaplate.
Toserve,tossthefennelinabowlwiththegarlicanddill.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Arrange on a serving plate and dotwith spoonfuls of goat cheese.Finish with a drizzle of oil and a scattering of lemon zest. Garnish with thefennelfronds.Serveatroomtemperature.
Globeartichokeswithcrushedfavabeans
My grandmother, Luciana Ottolenghi, formerly Cohen, who’s had a hugeinfluence on my taste buds and on my dad’s cooking, was born to a Jewishfamily fromRome. In this recipe I payhomage to thewayRoman Jews cooktheir artichokes, deep-frying them in olive oil, although I take it in a totallydifferentdirection.
Serves2asastarter
13/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)1smallgarlicclove,crushedgood-qualityextra-virginoliveoil11/2tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper2to3globeartichokes,dependingonsizejuiceof3lemons,plus2extralemonhalvestoserve1egg,beaten3tbsppanko3tbspchoppedmint2tbspchoppeddill
Startwith the favabeans.Bringa saucepanofwater to theboil.Throw in thebeansandblanchfor3minutes.Drain,refreshundercoldwaterandleaveinthecolander to dry. Once cool and dry, remove the outer skins of the beans bypressingeachgentlybetweenyourthumbandforefinger.Discardtheskins.
Put the shelled beans into the bowl of a food processor. Add the garlic, 4tablespoonsoliveoil,1/2teaspoonofthesaltandsomeblackpepper,andcrushthebeansroughly ina fewpulses (youcanalsodo thisbyhandusinga fork).Makesureyoudon’tprocessthemintoapurée.Setaside.
Topreparetheartichokes,cutoffmostofthestalkandpulloffthetoughouterleaves.Onceyou reach the softer, pale leaves, take a sharp serratedknife andtrimoff the topsoyouare leftwith thebaseonly.Scrape itcleanwitha littlesharpknife,removinganyremainingtoughleavesandthehairychoke.Youcannowcuttheresultingheartsinhalforleavethemwhole.Rubthemalloverwith
thejuiceofoneofthelemonsandplaceinabowlofcoldwater.Addthejuiceofanotherlemonandallthesqueezedlemonhalves.
Bringamediumsaucepanofwater to theboil.Carefullydrop in theartichokeheartsandsimmerfor7to10minutes,oruntilaknifewillpiercethemeasily.Drainwellanddryonadishtowel.Placetheartichokeheartsinabowlwiththebeaten egg and mix well. Spread the panko on a plate and season with 1teaspoonsalt.Lifttheartichokesfromthebowlwithaforkandintothepanko.Coattheminthecrumbs.
Pourenougholiveoilintoasmallsaucepantocome11/4inchesupthesidesandheatupuntilalmostsmoking.Addacoupleofartichokesatatimetothehotoiland fry for about 4 minutes, or until golden, turning them to color evenly.Transfertoaplatelinedwithpapertowelsandsprinklewithalittlesalt.
Stir thechoppedherbsandthe juiceof the third lemoninto thecrushedbeans.Spoonsomeovereachservingplate.Placeoneor twoartichokepieceson topandspoonmorecrushedbeansontoporaround.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoilandservewithalemonhalf.
Artichokegratin
I am all for frozen vegetables, especially when used for hearty, long-cookeddisheslikethisone.Here,inparticular,you’llsaveyourselftonsofworkifyoucan get a couple of bags of frozen artichoke hearts, without sacrificingmuchflavor.ServethegratinwithLettuceSalad.
Serves4-6
13/4 lbs frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, or about 20 medium-sized globeartichokesgratedzestandjuiceof4largelemons
2mediumonions,thinlysliced1/4cupoliveoilsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedthyme6tbspchoppedparsley
Béchamel4tbspunsaltedbutter1/3cupplus1tbspall-purposeflour1cupwater1cupmilk3/4tspsalt
3/4cupricotta6tbspgratedParmesan
Ifusingfreshartichokes,preparethemfirst.Useyourhandstopulloffthehardouter leaves until you reach the centerwith its small softer leaves.Rub aboutone-thirdof the lemon juiceon theartichokesasyouclean them.Useasmall,sharpserratedknifetotrimoffalltheleaves,thenscrapeawaythehairychokefromthecenter.Discardtheleavesandchoke.
Cut the artichoke hearts (freshly prepared or frozen) into 1/4-inch-thick slices.Putatonceintoapotwithplentyofwaterandallthelemonjuice(youmayhave
used some already when cleaning the fresh artichokes; add whatever is left).Bring to the boil and simmer for about 5minutes, or until the artichokes aretender(thefrozenoneswon’ttakeaslongasthefresh).Drain.
Whiletheartichokesarecooking,puttheonionsinapanwiththeoliveoilandsome salt and pepper. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, or untilgolden, stirring occasionally.Add the onions and oil to the cooked artichokestogetherwith the lemonzest, thymeandparsley.Stirgently tomix.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.Setaside.
Preheattheovento375°F.
Tomake thebéchamel.Melt thebutter inasmallsaucepan.Addtheflourandcookonmediumheat,stirringall thetime,forabout2minutes.Makesurethemix doesn’t brown much. Mix the water and milk and slowly add to thesaucepanasyouwhisk.Addthesaltandkeeponcookingandwhiskingonlowheatforabout10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandcreamy.
Gently mix together the artichokes and béchamel, then pour into a smallovenproof dish that’s been lightly greased with oil. Make small holes in theartichokemixandintoeachdropabout1teaspoonfulofricotta.Coverthedishwithfoilandbakefor30minutes.
Remove the foil and scatter the Parmesan over the top. Increase the oventemperature to 400°F. Continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes, or until theParmesanturnsgoldenbrownandthebéchamelisbubblingaway.Removefromtheovenandservehotorwarm.
Okrawithtomato,lemonandcilantro
Here’s a secret ingredient I pick up from the freezer of aLebanesemarket inLondon: tiny Egyptian okra, perfectly firm, packed with flavor. Almost asimportant,itcomesalreadytrimmed.
Serves4
4tbspoliveoil11/2tspcorianderseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced2redbellpeppers,cutinto3/8-inch-widestrips1mildfreshredchile,seededandchopped3/4cupchoppedparsleyleaves3/4cupchoppedcilantroleaves2largetomatoes,
chopped(or13/4cupscanned)3/4cupwater1tspsweetpaprika2tspsugarsalt4cupsokra(freshorfrozen)3tbspfinelychoppedskinofpreservedlemon30pittedblackolives,eachcutinhalf11/2tbsplemonjuice1tbspshreddedmint
Preheattheovento400°F.Heatup2tablespoonsoftheoilinalargesaucepan.Addthecorianderseedsandonionandsautéonmediumheatfor10minutes,oruntiltheonionsoftenswithoutcoloring.Addtheredpeppers,chile,parsleyandhalfthechoppedcilantro.Cookandstirforafurther5minutes.
Next,addthetomatoes,water,paprika,sugarandsalttotaste.Leavetosimmer,covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking for about 5minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandhaslostmostoftheexcessliquid.
Whilemakingthetomatosauce,preparetheokra(incaseyoucouldn’tgetanyofthepreparedfrozenvariety).Takeasmallpointyknifeandcarefullyremovethe stemend; try not to cut very low, keeping the endof the stem to seal themain body of the fruit so the seeds are not exposed. Mix the okra with theremaining 2 tablespoons of oil and some salt and spread over a roasting pan.Roastfor15to20minutes,oruntiljusttenderbutstillfirm.
Add the cooked okra to the tomato sauce. Stir gently, also mixing in thepreserved lemon,olives andhalf of the remaining choppedcilantro.Taste andadjusttheseasoning.
Youcanservethedishwarmwithsteamedbulgurwheatorcouscous,orleavetocooldownandserveat roomtemperaturewithbreadandothermezze. Inbothcases,mixinthelemonjuicejustbeforeservingandgarnishwiththeremainingcilantroandthemint.
Greengazpacho
There are amillion recipes around for gazpacho,which is by farmy favoritecoldsoup.Thisone,agreenvariation,islooselybasedontarator,acoldyogurtandcucumbersoupfromtheBalkans.Aproperfree-standingblenderworksbestherebutanimmersionblendercouldalsobeused.
Serves6
Croutons2thickslicessourdoughbread4tbspoliveoilsalt
2celerystalks(includingtheleaves)2smallgreenbellpeppers,seeded6minicucumbers(11/4lbs),peeled3slicesstalewhitebread,crustsremoved1freshgreenchile(orlessifyoudon’twantittoohot)4garliccloves1tspsugar11/2cupswalnuts,lightlytoasted6cupsbabyspinach1cupbasilleaves2tbspchoppedparsley4tbspsherryvinegar1cupoliveoil3tbspGreekyogurtabout2cupswater9ozicecubes2tspsalt
whitepepper
Tomake the croutons. Preheat the oven to 375°F.Cut the bread into 3/4-inchcubesandtossthemwiththeoilandabitofsalt.Spreadonabakingsheetandbakeforabout10minutes,oruntilthecroutonsturngoldenandcrisp.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldown.
Roughlychopthecelery,bellpeppers,cucumbers,bread,chileandgarlic.Placein a blender and add the sugar, walnuts, spinach, basil, parsley, vinegar, oil,yogurt,most of thewater, half the ice cubes, the salt and somewhite pepper.Blitz the soup until smooth.Addmorewater, if needed, to get your preferredconsistency.Tastethesoupandadjusttheseasoning.
Lastly, add the remaining ice and pulse once or twice, just to crush it a little.Serveatonce,withthecroutons.
Asparagusmimosa
This traditional way with asparagus is probablymy favorite. It is simple andtherefore relies on the quality of the asparagus itselfmore than anything else.Seeifyoucangetthespearsfromafarmers’marketortheshopatafarmwheretheyhavebeenfreshlypicked.Roughlychoppedtarragonsprinkledontopwillmakeagoodaddition.
Serves4asastarter
2eggs2bunchesofmediumasparagus2tbspgood-qualityoliveoil2tspsmallcapers,drained1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper
Gentlyplaceyoureggsinasaucepanofboilingwaterandsimmerfor9minutes.Removetheeggsfromthepanandimmersetheminalargebowlofcoldwater.After a few minutes, take them out of the water and leave to cool downcompletely.Peeltheeggsandgratethemonacoarsecheesegrater.
Bendtheasparagusuntilthetoughbottomendssnapoff;discardtheends.Placethespearsinalargepotofboilingwaterandcookfor3minutes,oruntiltender.Itmaytakeslightlylongeriftheyarethick.
Drain and, while still warm but not hot, divide among four serving plates.Drizzle the oil over the asparagus and sprinklewith the capers, salt and somepepper.Topwiththegratedegg,stayingclosetothecenterofthestalkssothatthetipsandbasesremainvisible.
Char-grilledasparagus
Hereasparagusspearsaresimplycookedonaridgedgriddlepan.Thefactthatthey are not boiled means that they keep more of their original flavor. Thetexture,though,isslightlymoresinewythanwhenboilingorsteaming.Isuggestusingamildfeta,nottoosalty,oranothertypeofmildsheep’scheesefromtheBalkans.Servewarm,asastarter,oraspartofamezzespread.
Serves4
2bunchesofasparagus2tbspgrapeseedoil,plusextratofinish1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper8 thin slices good-quality feta (21/2 oz in total), or a few spoonfuls of ricotta
gratedzestof1lemon
Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and discard. Toss the spears in thegrapeseedoilandsprinklewiththesaltandsomepepper.Laytheasparagusinahotgriddlepan,placingthemperpendiculartotheridgesofthepan.Cookfor6to9minutes,turningoccasionally,oruntiljustaldenteandlightlycharred.
Arrangetheasparagusonfourservingplates.Addtheslicesoffetaanddrizzlesomegrapeseedoilontopandaroundtheplate.Finishwiththelemonzestandabitofblackpepper.
Asparagusvichyssoise
Myloveforcoldsoupscomesfrommyparents.WhenIwasachildmymotherusedtomakethemostrefreshinggazpachoforus,toalleviatethedryheatoftheJerusalem summer. It was marvelous - a little sweet, a little sour and totallylight.WhenIrecentlyshutmyselfupatmyparents’house,tofinallygetonwithalltherecipeintrosforthisbook,myfathermadeoneofhisgloriouscreations:acoldcreamysoupofpotato,freshlypickedbasil,cucumberchunksandloadsofgoat’smilkyogurtfromtheneighboringgoatfarm.IamafraidIcan’treplicatethisinLondon.
The ideal time for makingmy cold soup is toward the end of the asparagusseason,intheearlysummer,whenthespearsareoftenthickandwoodyandnotgoodenoughtoeatastheyare.Servewithcrustybreaddippedinoliveoil.
Serves4
1mediumpotato2mediumleeks1lbasparagus11/2tbspunsaltedbutter21/2cupsgood-qualityvegetablestock1tspsugarsaltandwhitepepper3tbspheavycream6tbspGreekyogurtgratedzestof1/2lemonPeelthepotatoanddiceroughly.Chopoffanddiscardthetoughgreenendsoftheleeks.Cutthroughthepalecenter,thenwashandsliceroughly.Trimoffanddiscardthewoodybaseoftheasparagus.Cutallbutthreeofthespearsinto3/4-inchpieces,keepingthetipsseparate.Reservewholespears.
Placethevegetables,exceptfortheasparagustips,withthebutterinamediumsaucepanandsautéonmediumheatforabout4minutes;makesuretheydon’ttake on any color.Cover the vegetableswith the stock and add the sugar andsome salt and white pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 40minutes.Attheendofthistimeaddtheasparagustipsandcontinuecookingfor
10minutes.
Oncedone,blitzthesoupwellinablenderuntilverysmooth.Gentlyfoldinthecreamandhalf theyogurt.Allow the soup to come to room temperature, thenchill.
Whilethesoupiscoolingdown,bringapanofwatertotheboilandblanchthereservedasparagusfor2minutes;drainandrefreshunderplentyofcoldwater.Shred.
Pourthecoldsoupintobowls.Spoonadollopofyogurtontopofeachandswirlwiththetipofaskewer.Placetheshreddedasparagusinthecenterandgarnishwithlemonzest.
Meegoreng
AlloverMalaysiaaprofusionofstreetfoodisservedinbigopen-aircomplexes.Thedifferentstallspreparecheap,cheerfulandincrediblydeliciousdishesfromMalay,ChineseorIndiancuisines.Sinceeverythingissotemptingyouoftenendupwithatablestillpiledwithdelicaciesandnostomachcapacity.Theattractionof this type of dining is that it is both fresh and complex. Many dishes arepreparedfromrawinfrontofyoureyes,usinggreatingredients,whichmakesitfar superior tomanyWestern solutions for fast food. I was guided through arecentMalaysianadventurebyHelenGohandheraffectionatefamily,theLees,whohavetaughtmemanyculinarysecrets.
ThisMalaydishtakesonlyafewminutestomake(onceyouhavealittlebitofprepoutoftheway)andisuniqueinitsmanylayersanddepthofflavors.Ifyouwant to servemore than two people you’ll need to start again with a secondbatch,becausedoublequantitieswillbetoomuchforonewok.
Serves2
2tbsppeanutoil1/2onion,diced8ozfirmtofu,cutinto3/8-inch-thickstrips4ozgreenbeans,trimmedandcutinhalfatanangle4ozchoisum(orbokchoy),cutintolargechunks(bothleavesandstalks)11oz
fresheggnoodles11/2tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin2tspsambaloelek(oranothersavorychilepaste),plusextratoserve2tspthick
soysauce2tsplightsoysauce1tbspwater2ozMungbeansproutshandfulofshreddediceberglettuce1tbspcrisp-friedshallotslemonwedgestoserve
Setawokoralargepanonhighheat.Oncehot,addtheoilandthentheonion,andcookforabout1minutetosoftenabit.AddthetofuandFrenchbeansandcookfor2to3minutestogivethetofuabitofcolor.Stirgentlyasyoucook,tryingnottobreakupthetofu.
Next,addthechoisum.Whenitwiltsaddthenoodlesandcarefullyspreadtheminthewokusingtongsorlargechopsticks.Youwantthenoodlestogetalotofheat,almost tofry.Mixgently,cooking thenoodlesforabout2minutes.Nowadd the spices, sambal oelek, soy sauces, water and bean sprouts and tosscarefully.Cookforaboutaminute,oruntilthenoodlesaresemisoft.
Whenready, topwith lettuce, transfer toservingbowlsandsprinklewithcrispshallots.Ontheside,servelemonwedgesandasmallbowlofextrasambalolek.
Sobanoodleswithwakame
In2009ItravelledtoTokyowiththesolepurposeofeating.IhavealwayslikedJapanese foodbut this time Iwasblownaway,completely takenoverby foodandby the fact that the Japanese, like no other culture that I knowof, areallfoodies.Itwasfantasticbeinginthecompanyofsomanywho,justlikeme,arewilling to lineupfor thebestspongecake in theworld, thefinestsliceof rawfish or the greatest soba noodles. The latter I tasted, along with dozens ofbusinessmen in fancy suits, atYabusoba, an unassuming restaurant in the oldneighborhoodofKanda.
Sobanoodles,madeofbuckwheat,areoftenservedcoldwithaflavorfuldippingsauce.Wakameisaseavegetablewithamildsaltyflavorandaslurpytexture.Othervarietiesofseaweedcanbeusedassubstituteshere.Or,ifoceanflavorisnotyourthing,replacewiththinlyslicedradishes.
Serves4-6
2largecucumbers(skinon)2tspsalt11ozsobanoodlesone2-ozpackagewakame
Sauce2tbspricevinegargratedzestof2limes1/4cuplimejuice1tbspgratedfreshginger2freshredchiles,finelychopped(orlessifyoudon’tlikeittoohot)1tbsppalm
sugar2tbsptoastedsesameoil2tbsppeanutoil1tbspsweetchilesauce1garlicclove,crushed3/4tspsalt
1/2cuptoastedsesameseeds2cupscilantroleaves,roughlychopped3/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped 11/3 cups radish sprouts, plus extra to
garnish
Shred the cucumbers using a mandolin or the shredding blade in a foodprocessor.Placethethinstripsinacolander,sprinklewiththesaltandstirwell,thenleavetodrainforatleast30minutes.
Put the noodles in a pan of boilingwater and cook for 4 to 5minutes, or asinstructedon thepacket.Drainand rinse in a streamof coldwater to stop thecooking.Leavetodry.
Soak thewakame inwarmwater for about 10minutes, or until it softens up;drain. Remove the tough “stalks” and discard. Cut or tear the rest into largepiecesandputintoalargemixingbowl.Addthecookednoodlesandcucumbertothewakame.
Tomakethesauce.Whisktogetherallofthesauceingredients.
Addtothenoodlemix.Stirgently,thenaddthesesameseeds,cilantro,mintandsprouts.Stirwellagainandtaste-youwantasweetishtartflavorwithakick.Ifneeded,addmoresalt,vinegarorsugar.
Toserve,pilethenoodlesinservingbowlsandgarnishwithradishsprouts.
GreenBeans
Mixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovage
Thisisawonderfullyaromaticdishthatusesanabundanceofspices,resultinginacurry-likedelicacy.Itcanbeservedwarmwithamixofbasmatiandwildrice
oratroomtemperatureasasidedish.
Lovagelookslikeflat-leafparsleybuttasteslikeintensecelery.Useitsparinglyand you’ll find it adds tons of character to salads, lentil dishes and creamysauces.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofit,substitutewithcilantroortarragon.
Serves4
3tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,chopped2tsptomatopaste1/2 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 1/2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp
groundginger1tspgroundcardamompinchofgroundclovessaltandblackpepperone14-ozcanchoppedtomatoes(withtheirjuices)1tspsugar11/2cupssugarsnappeas,halvedatanangle1cuplargestringbeans,slicedat
anangle13/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)2tbspchoppedlovage
Heatup theoil in a largepanandadd theonion.Sautéonmediumheat for3minutes,stirringfrequently;addthegarlicandcookfor1moreminute.Nowaddthe tomato paste, spices and some salt and pepper and keep on cooking andstirringforanotherminute.
Next,addthetomatoes,sugarandall thepeasandbeans.Stir tomix.Bringtotheboil, thencoverandsimmergentlyfor15 to20minutes,oruntil thesugarsnapsarecookedthroughbutarestillcrunchy.Tasteandaddsaltandpepperasyoulike.Stirinthelovagejustbeforeservingwarmorcooled.
Favabeanburgers
When this recipe first appeared in theGuardian I didn’tmention skinning thefava beans. This time I have done so because I decided to make the burgerssmoother andmore refined. I have to admit that the skinning does add a fairamountofwork,probably30minutes,butIbelievetheupgradeisworthit.Ididsavesometime,though,byleavingoutasourcreamandlemonsaucefromtheoriginal.Ifyouinsist,servewiththecondimentfortheSweetPotatoCakes.
Serves4
3/4 tsp cumin seeds 3/4 tsp coriander seeds 3/4 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 lb (about 6cups)spinach3tbspoliveoil
1 lb (about3 cups) shelled favabeans (freshor frozen) 3/4 lbpotatoes,peeledandroughlydiced1/2 freshgreenchile,seededandfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushed
1/4tspgroundturmericsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedcilantro6tbspdriedbreadcrumbs1egg1/2cupsunfloweroil4lemonwedges
Putthewholeseedsinapananddry-roastoverhighheatfor3to4minutes,oruntiltheystartreleasingtheiraromas.Grindtoapowderinamortarandpestleandleaveaside.
Wilt the spinach in a hot pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.When coolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutanyliquid,thenchoproughlyandsetaside.
Blanch the fava beans in boiling water for about a minute; drain and refreshundercoldrunningwater.Oncecoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardtheskins.
Cookthepotatoes inboilingwaterforabout15minutes,oruntil tender.Drain
and tip into a large mixing bowl. Immediately add the skinned fava beans,crushed seeds, chile,garlic, turmeric, remaining2 tablespoonsofoliveoil andsomesaltandpepper.Useapotatomashertomashitalluproughly;don’tworryif some beans are not totally crushed. Next, add the wilted spinach, choppedcilantroandbreadcrumbs.Tastetochecktheseasoning.Lastly,mixintheegg.
Wetyourhandsandshape themix into fatpatties thatare roughly2 inches indiameterand3/4inchthick.Chillthemforatleasthalfanhour.
Tocook,heatupthesunfloweroilandfrytheburgersonhighheatfor5minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Servewarm,withthelemonwedges.
Gado-gado
Gado-gadoisbestdescribedasaverysubstantialsalad.Youdon’tneedanythingelse with it. A visit to an Asian grocer is essential for getting all the rightingredients,butsomecreativesubstituteswouldprobablyalsowork.Thesataysauceisalittleworkbutit’swortheverybitoftheeffort.Useitformarinatingwhitemeatortofu,orjustspoonoverhotriceorricenoodles.
Serves4
Sataysauce4garliccloves,peeled1lemongrassstalk,roughlychopped21/2 tbsp sambal oelek (Indonesian crushed chile paste) 2 small pieces of
galangal(orpeeledfreshginger)4mediumshallots,peeled1/3cupvegetableoil3/4tbspsalt7tbspsugar1/2tbspsweetpaprika2tbspthicktamarindwater(tamarindpulpwhiskedwitha
littlewaterandstrained)11/2cupsroastedunsaltedpeanuts13/4cupswater1cupcoconutmilk
1tspgroundturmeric2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcutintowedges
1/2mediumcabbage,cutintochunks1cupbeansprouts1/2cupgreenbeans,trimmed1/2mediumcucumber,thicklysliced4hard-boiled
eggs,quartered4 oz firm tofu, cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices cassava chips (or something else
crunchylikedeep-friedcroutonsorwontonskins)3tbspcilantroleavescrisp-friedshallots
To make the satay sauce. Use a small food processor to blitz the garlic,lemongrass,sambaloelek,galangalandshallotsintoahomogenouspaste.Addalittlebitofthevegetableoil,ifneeded,tobringeverythingtogether.
Heatuptheremainingoil inamediumsaucepan.Addthepasteandcookonagentleheatfor40to50minutes,oruntiltheoilstartsseparatingfromthepaste.Stir regularly.Once ready, combine the salt, sugar andpaprika and add to thespicepaste.Alsoaddthetamarindwater.Cookfor10minutesmore.
While thepaste iscooking, take thepeanutsandcrush themroughly ina foodprocessor; they should be chunkier than ground almonds. Put the peanuts andwater into a small saucepan and simmer on lowheat for 20 to 25minutes, oruntilthemixturethickensandmostofthewaterhasevaporated.Addthepeanuts(pluswater)tothecookedspicepaste,stirinthecoconutmilkandthere’syoursataysauce.Keepitsomewherewarm.
Havereadytwopotsofboilingwater;addtheturmerictooneofthem.Cookthepotatoesintheturmericwateruntiltender,thendrain.Intheotherpotblanchthecabbage for 1 minute; remove, and blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds.Removethose,thenblanchthegreenbeansfor4minutesanddrain(noneedtorefresh).Keepthesevegetableswarm.
Takea largecommunal servingplateandpileupall thevegetables,eggs, tofuand most of the chips. Generously spoon warm satay sauce on top (you’llprobablyhaveafairbitleftover;youcankeepitinthefridgeforafewdays),thensprinklewiththeremainingchips,thecilantroandcrispshallotsifyoulike.Servewarmish.
Greenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragon
Thissalad-offeringagoodbalanceofcleanfreshnessfromthebeanswiththepunchycomplexityoftheherbsandspices-worksinplentyofcontexts.TryitnexttoTwo-PotatoVindaloo,alongwithFriedLimaBeanswithFeta,SorrelandSumac,orasasidedishwithgrilledlambchops.
Serves4
11/4 cups greenbeans, trimmed21/4 cups snowpeas, trimmed13/4 cups greenpeas (freshor frozen)2 tspcorianderseeds, roughlycrushedwithamortarandpestle1tspmustardseeds
3tbspoliveoil1tspnigellaseeds1/2 small red onion, finely chopped 1 mild fresh red chile, seeded and finely
diced1garlicclove,crushedgratedzestof1lemon2tbspchoppedtarragoncoarseseasalt1cupbabychardleaves(optional)
Fillamediumsaucepanwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Blanchthegreenbeans for 4minutes, then immediately lift them out of the pan and into icedwatertorefresh.Drainanddry.
Bring a fresh pan ofwater to the boil and blanch the snowpeas for 1minuteonly.Refresh,drainanddry.Usethesameboilingwatertoblanchthepeasfor20seconds.Refresh,drainanddry.Combinethebeans,snowpeasandpeasinalargemixingbowl.
Putthecorianderseeds,mustardseedsandoilinasmallsaucepanandheatup.When theseedsbegin topop,pour thecontentsof thepanover thebeansandpeas.Toss together, then add the nigella seeds, redonion, chile, garlic, lemonzestandtarragon.Mixwellandseasonwithsalttotaste.
Justbeforeserving,gentlyfoldthechardleaves,ifusing,inwiththebeansandpeas,andspoonthesaladontoplatesorintobowls.
Warmglassnoodlesandedamame
Untilrecentlyedamame,whicharesimilartofavabeansbutharderandnuttier,were only available in Japanese restaurants. Now, with their health benefitscelebratedeverywhere(theyarefullofprotein,omega-3fattyacids,vitaminAand more), these young soybeans are widely available, whether frozen andshelled,cookedorraw.
Edamame fit well in most salads and in warm dishes. This one makes arefreshing lightmeal. You can upgrade it by adding fried tofu and/or roastedpeanuts.
Serves4
7ozglass(cellophane)noodles
Sauce2tbspgratedgalangalorfreshgingerjuiceof4limes3tbsppeanutoil2tbsppalmsugar2tspseedlesstamarindpulporpaste1tsptamari1tspfineseasalt
2tbspsunfloweroil3garliccloves,crushed21/2 cups shelledcookededamame3greenonions, thinly sliced (including the
greenparts)1freshredchile,finelychopped3tbspchoppedcilantro,plusafewwholeleavestogarnish3tbspshreddedfresh
mint3tbspsesameseeds,toastedsalt(optional)
Soakthenoodlesinabowlofhotwaterforabout5minutes,oruntilsoft(don’t
leavetheminthewaterfortoolongortheywillgetsoggy).Drainandleavetodry.
Tomakethesauce.Inasmallbowlwhisktogetherallofthesauceingredientsandsetaside.
Heatthesunfloweroilinalargefryingpanorawokandaddthegarlic.Whenitstarts to turn golden, remove the pan from the heat and add the sauce andnoodles. Gently stir together, then add most of the edamame and the greenonions,chile,cilantroandmint.Stireverythingtogetherwhileyoureturnthepantotheheatforafewseconds,justtowarmthrough.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,ifyoulike.
Pile up on a large platter or in a shallowbowl and scatter over the remainingedamameandthesesameseeds.Garnishwithcilantroleavesandserve.Youcanalsoservethisdishatroomtemperature,adjustingtheseasoningwhenitiscool.
Hotyogurtandfavabeansoup
IcameupwiththissoupwhenaskedtocontributeaseasonalrecipetotheRoyalHorticulturalSociety’s flowershowatHamptonCourtPalace. It involvesabitofworkbuttheresultis,quitefittingly,majestic.
Serves4
6tbspgood-qualityoliveoil1mediumonion,quartered4celerystalks,quartered1largecarrot,peeledandcutinto1-inchchunks5thymesprigs2bayleaves1/2cupflat-leafparsley11/2quartswater31/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshor
frozen)1/3cuplong-grainricesaltandwhitepepper2cupsGreekyogurt2garliccloves,crushed1egg3tbsproughlychoppeddill3tbsproughlychoppedchervilgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon(optional)
Pour2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilintoalargepot.Heatuptheoilandaddtheonion,celeryandcarrot.Sautéonmediumheatforabout5minutes;youwanttosoften up the vegetables without browning them. Next, add the thyme, bayleavesandparsleyandcoverwith thewater.Bring to theboil, thenreduce theheat,coverandsimmergentlyfor30minutes.
While the stock is cooking, get on with the arduous bit - preparing the favabeans.Bringasaucepanofwatertotheboil.Throwinthebeansandsimmerforjust1minute.Drain,thenrefreshthebeansunderrunningcoldwatertostopthecooking.Next,removetheskinsbygentlypressingwithyourfingersagainstthesidesofeachbean,causingthesoftbeantopopout;discardtheskins.
Whenthestockisready,passitthroughasieveintoamediumsaucepan;discardthevegetablesandflavoringsinthesieve.Addthericetothestock.Bringtotheboil,thensimmer,covered,for20minutes.Nowaddhalftheskinnedfavabeansandsomesaltandpepperanduseanimmersionblender(oraregularblender)toblitzthesoupuntilitiscompletelysmooth.
Whisk together the yogurt, garlic and egg in a large heatproof bowl. Add aladlefulofthehotsoupandwhisktogether.Continuegraduallyaddingthesoupuntil you’ve mixed in at least half of it. (It is important to do this slowly,otherwisetheyogurtmightsplitduetothedifferenceintemperatures.)Pourthetemperedyogurtintothepancontainingtherestofthesoup.Placeitonmedium heat and warm up the soup while stirring constantly.Make sure thesoupdoesn’tboil!Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.
Ladle the soup into four shallowbowls anddrop in the remaining favabeans.Garnish generously with dill, chervil and lemon zest, and drizzle with theremaining4 tablespoonsoliveoil (this is important),plussomelemonjuice, ifyoulike.
Pulses
Puylentilgalettes
Thesemayseemabitoutdated,reminiscentoftheoldvol-au-vents,butallgoodthingseventuallymakeacomebackandIamsurethismodernizedversionwill
score you many points on the imaginative-host scale. The lentils are alsodeliciousontheirown,withoutthepuffbase.
Youcanskipthetoastingandgrindingoftheseeds,ifyouprefer,anduseready-groundspicesinstead;justhalvethequantity.
Serves4
1cupPuylentils2bayleaves2tspcuminseeds2tspcorianderseeds5tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1mediumonion,roughlychopped2garliccloves,crushed11/4cupsGreekyogurt2cupsbabyspinachleaves3tbspchoppedcilantro3tbspchoppedmintjuiceof1lemonsaltandblackpepper14ozbest-qualitypuffpastry1egg,beaten
Cook the lentils in a quart of boiling water with the bay leaves for 20 to 30minutes,oruntilthoroughlycooked.Draininasieveandsetaside.
Inasmallfryingpanovermediumheat,dry-roastthecuminandcorianderseedsfor2minutes,oruntil thearomasarereleased.Grind themusingamortarandpestle.
Heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinasmallpanandfrytheoniongentlyfor6to8minutes,oruntilgoldenandverysoft.Addthegroundspicesandgarlicandcookfor2moreminutes.Mix thiswith the lentilsandsetaside tocooldown.Oncecool,stirintheyogurt,spinach,herbs,lemonjuiceandremainingoliveoil.Tasteandaddsaltandpepper.
Rolloutthepuffpastry11/4inchesthickandcutoutfourcirclesabout3inchesindiameter.Placeonabakingsheetandrefrigeratefor30minutes.Preheattheovento400°F.
Brush the pastrywith the beaten egg and bake for 10 to 15minutes, or untilgoldenontopandunderneath.Allowtocoolslightly.
Toserve,placethepastrydiscsinthemiddleoffourservingplates.Pileupthelentils high on top so you can just see the edge of the pastry. Finish with adrizzleofoliveoil.
Hummuswithful
WhenIaminIsraelIoftengotoAbuHassaninJaffa,atinyeaterywherethereisanendlesslineofArabsandJewsstandingatthedooraroundlunchtime.ItisoneofthoseuniqueplacesIlovesomuch,specializinginonethinganddoingittoabsoluteperfection.AbuHassanmakesoneofthebesthummusintheworld.Served warm with ful, which is a hearty paste of dried fava beans, this is apopular breakfast or lunch dish among Lebanese, Palestinians, Syrians andIsraelis. Served with warm pita, raw onion and hard-boiled egg, it isn’t thelightestaffair,butit’scompletelydelicious.Forasimplerexperience,makeonlythehummusandserveitwarmorchilled(itcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2days).
Serves6
21/2 cups dried chickpeas 11/2 tbsp baking soda 11/4 cups tahini paste 3 tbsplemonjuice
6garliccloves,crushedsalt
Ful11/2cupsdriedfavabeans1/3cupoliveoil1/3cuplemonjuice1tbspgroundcumin4garliccloves,crushed1tspsalt
1/3cupoliveoil1/3cuplemonjuice1tspsweetpaprika6tbsproughlychoppedparsley(optional)3eggs,hard-boiledandquartered1mediumonion,cutinto6wedges(optional)
Soakthechickpeasandfavabeansovernight.Placethemintwoseparatebowls
andcoverwithdoubletheirvolumeofcoldwater.Add1tablespoonbakingsodatothechickpeas.Setbothaside.Thenextday,drainandrinseboth.
Place the soaked chickpeas and remaining baking soda in amedium saucepanandcoverwithdoubletheirvolumeofcoldwater.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerverygently for2 to3hours, oruntil totally soft andeasy tomush.Addmorewaterduringcookingifnecessary,tokeepthemimmersed.Drainthem,retainingthecookingliquid.
Transfer thewarmchickpeastoafoodprocessor,reservingafewtogarnishattheend,andadd the tahini, lemon juice,garlicand1 teaspoonsalt.Blitz foraminute or two until totally smooth.Add some of the cooking liquid and blitzagain.Youwant themixture tobeverysoft,almost runny,but justholding itsshape.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyoulike.Keepwarm.
Tomake the ful. Place the fava beans in amedium saucepan and coverwithdoubletheirvolumeofwater.Simmergentlyforabout3hours(theymaytakelonger),addingmorewaterifnecessary.Bytheendofthecookingtime,hardlyanyliquidshouldbeleftinthepan(drainitoutifneeded)andthebeansshouldhave begun to disintegrate, or will do so easily when crushed with a fork.Removefromtheheatandaddtheoliveoil,lemonjuice,cumin,garlicandsalt.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Toserve,spreadthewarmhummusinsmallindividualplates.Spoonthefulinthecenteranddrizzletheoliveoilandlemonjuiceontopandaround.Sprinklewithpaprika,garnishwiththereservedchickpeas,plentyofparsley,ifusing,andserveeggandonionontheside.
ChickpeasautéwithGreekyogurt
Thisisaquickandsimpledishthatisnicebothwarmandatroomtemperature.Whenchardisn’tinseasontryacombinationofspinachandarugula(youwon’tneedtoblanchthem)andsprinklewithsumacorgroundPersianlime.
Serves4
3/4lb(8cups)Swisschard1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratofinish4mediumcarrots,peeledandcutinto3/8-inchdice1tspcarawayseeds11/2cupsfreshlycookedchickpeas(cannedarefinetoo)1garlicclove,crushed1tbspchoppedmint1tbspchoppedcilantro1tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper1/2cupGreekyogurt1tbspoliveoil
Separatethechardstalksfromtheleaves.Blanchthestalksinplentyofboilingsaltedwaterfor3minutes.Addtheleavesandcontinuecookingfor2minutes,thendraineverything.Refreshundercoldrunningwaterandsqueezedry, thenchoproughly.
Heatup theoliveoil in a large,heavy saucepan.Add thecarrots andcarawayseedsandsautéfor5minutesonmediumheat.Addthechardandchickpeasandcontinue cooking for 6 minutes. Now add the garlic, herbs, lemon juice andsomesaltandpepper.Removefromtheheatandcooldowna little.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Toserve,mix together theyogurt,oliveoilandsomesaltandpepper.Pile thevegetablesonservingdishesandspoontheyogurtontop.Sprinklewithfreshlygroundpepperanddrizzleovermoreoliveoil.
Friedlimabeanswithfeta,sorrelandsumac
I knew something was achieved when I recently spotted sumac in the spicesection ofmy local supermarket.Who had even heard of sumac, or za’atar, acoupleofyearsago?Although I can’t take full credit for it, this is a first steptoward introducing a new exciting spice to the home cook andmy answer toskeptics who often ask me why I use all these exotic ingredients that areimpossibletofind.Justincaseyoudon’tlivenearme,youcangetbothza’atarandsumacfromMiddleEasternshops,orbuythemonlinefrompenzeys.com.Ifyoucan’tfindsorrel,usespinachanddoubletheamountoflemonjuice.
Serves4
1lbdriedlimabeans2tbspbakingsoda11/2tbspbutter4tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish8greenonions,slicedlengthwaysintolongstrips1garlicclove,crushed2freshredchiles,thinlysliced(optional)5cupssorrel,cutinto3/4-inchstrips,plusextraverythinlyslicedtofinish1/2tsp
salt11/2tbsplemonjuice5ozfeta,crumbled2tspsumachandfulofchoppedsoftherbssuchasdillorchervil
Place the limabeans ina largebowlandaddtwice theirvolumeofcoldwaterandthebakingsoda.Leavetosoakovernight.
Thefollowingday,drainthebeans,placeinalargepanandcoverwithplentyoffreshwater.Bringtotheboilandboilforatleast30minutes,oruntilsofttothebitebutnotdisintegrating.Theycouldtakeoveranhourtocook,dependingonsize and freshness.Addmorewater during cooking if necessary.When ready,drainthebeans.
Next, youwant to lightly fry them.Youmay need to do this in three or fourbatches,dependingonthesizeofyourpan.Takesomeofthebutterandoilandheat up well. Add enough beans to cover the bottom of the pan and fry onmedium-high heat for 1 to 2minutes on each side, or until the skin is goldenbrownandblistered.Removetoalargebowlandcontinuewithanotherbatchofbutter,oilandbeans.
When cooking the final batch, as soon as the beans are almost done, add thegreen onions, garlic, chiles, if using, and sorrel and sauté for about aminute.Thenaddtherestofthebeanstothepan,removefromtheheatandseasonwiththesalt.Allowthebeanstocooldowncompletelyoruntiljustwarmish.
Tastethebeansforseasoning,drizzlesomelemonjuiceontop,thenscatterwithfeta,asprinklingofsumac,choppedherbsandsomethinlyslicedsorrel.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoil.
Celeriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmint
Celeriac isprobablymy favorite root. It isdelicate,yetverynutty,andhasanelegantoilysmoothness.Likeallgoodvegetables,itismarveloussimplywithabitofoliveoil.Hereitworkswiththelentilsandnutstocreateaheartyautumnmaincourse.Serveitwarm,witharadish,cucumberanddillsaladdressedwithsourcreamandoliveoil.Orallowittocooldown,thentakeittoworkforlunchoronapicnic.
Serves4
1/3cupwholehazelnuts(skinon)1cupPuylentils3cupswater2bayleaves4thymesprigs1smallceleriac(11/2lbs),peeledandcutinto3/8-inchchips4tbspoliveoil3tbsphazelnutoil3tbspgood-qualityredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper4tbspchoppedmint
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Scatter the hazelnuts on a small baking sheet androastintheovenfor15minutes.Letthemcooldown,thenchoproughly.
Combinethelentils,water,bayleavesandthymeinasmallsaucepan.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerfor15to20minutes,oruntilaldente.Draininasieve.
Meanwhile,inaseparatesaucepan,cooktheceleriacinplentyofboilingsaltedwaterfor8to12minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.
Inalargebowlmixthehotlentils(iftheyhavecooleddowntheywon’tsoakupalltheflavors)withtheoliveoil,2tablespoonsofthehazelnutoil,thevinegar,plentyofsaltandsomeblackpepper.Addtheceleriacandstirwell.Tasteand
adjusttheseasoning.
To serve right away, stir in half the mint and half the hazelnuts. Pile onto aservingdishorinabowlanddrizzletheremaininghazelnutoilontop.Garnishwiththerestofthemintandhazelnuts.
To serve cold, wait for the lentils and celeriac to cool down before finallyadjustingtheseasoningandpossiblyaddingsomemorevinegar,ifyoulike.Addhazelnutoil,mintandnutsinthesamewayaswhenservinghot.
Chickpea,tomatoandbreadsoup
Here’s a take on the Tuscan ribollita. Somewhere between a soup and avegetablestew,itisawarmingandfillingmealinabowlafterwhichyoudon’tneedmuch-maybejustalittlepillowtorestyourheadon.Youcanreduceorincreasetheamountofliquidtoachieveyourperfectconsistency.
Serves4-6
1largeonion,sliced1mediumfennelbulb,slicedabout1/2cupoliveoil1largecarrot,peeled,cutlengthwaysinhalfandsliced3celerystalks,sliced1tbsptomatopaste1cupwhitewineone14-ozcanItalianplumtomatoes1tbspchoppedoregano2tbspchoppedparsley1tbspthymeleaves2bayleaves2tspsugar41/2cupsvegetablestocksaltandblackpepper2largeslicesstalesourdoughbread(crustremoved)21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (canned are fine too) 4 tbsp basil pesto
(boughtorfreshlymade)handfulofshreddedbasilleavestoserve(optional)
Preheattheovento350°F.Placetheonionandfennelinalargesaucepan,add3tablespoonsof theoilandsautéonmediumheat forabout4minutes.Add thecarrot and celery and continue cooking for 4 minutes, just to soften thevegetables,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthetomatopasteandstirasyoucookfor1minute.Addthewineandletitbubbleawayforaminuteortwo.
Next,addthecannedtomatoeswiththeirjuices,theherbs,sugar,vegetablestockand some salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer
gentlyforabout30minutes.
Whileyouwait,breakthebreadintoroughchunkswithyourhands.Tosswith2tablespoonsoil and some salt and scatter in a roastingpan.Bake for about10minutes,oruntilthoroughlydry.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.
About10minutesbeforeyouwant to serve the soup,place thechickpeas inabowlandcrushthemalittlewithapotatomasherortheendofarollingpin;youwant some to be leftwhole.Add them to the soup and leave to simmer for afurther5minutes.Nextadd the toastedbread,stirwellandcookforanother5minutes.Tastethesoupandaddsaltandpepperliberally.
Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Spoon some pesto in the center, drizzle withplentyofoliveoilandfinishwithagenerousamountoffreshlyshreddedbasil,ifyoulike.
Greenlentils,asparagusandwatercress
WhenthisrecipewasfirstpublishedIusedyoungpecorinocheeseinitsoasnotto outdo the asparagus. I have since realized that fresh asparagus actuallywithstands quite a lot and can impart its flavor over pretty gutsy dishes. Aflavorfulsheep’scheeseisidealwiththeearthylentils.
Serves4generously
1cupgreenlentils4cupswatercress(thickstalksremoved)2/3cupparsley2/3cuplightoliveoil1tbspredwinevinegar1garlicclove,peeledsaltandblackpepper1largebunchthinasparagusspears31/2 oz semi-mature pecorino (or one of the more full-bodied varieties of
Manchego),brokenintochunkswalnutoiltofinish(optional)4lemonwedges
Wash the lentils in cold water, then place in a saucepanwith plenty of freshwaterandbring to theboil.Simmerfor15minutes,oruntil the lentilsare justcookedbuthaven’tstartedtodisintegrate.
While the lentils are cooking, put half the watercress, the parsley, olive oil,vinegar, garlic and some salt and pepper into a food processor. Blitz untilsmooth.Pourintoabowl.
Assoonasthelentilsarecookeddrainthemwellandmixthem,whilestillhot,withthewatercressdressing.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;youwillprobablyneedmoresalt.
Cooktheasparagusinsimmeringsaltedwaterfor2to3minutes;drain.Cutthe
spearsintoroughly21/2-inch-longsegments.
Youcanservethesaladwarmoratroomtemperature.Tosstogetherthelentils,asparagus andmost of the remainingwatercress.Addpieces of cheese as youplate thesalad.Drizzlewithwalnutoil, ifusing,andgarnishwith thereservedwatercress.Servewithwedgesoflemon.
Spicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurt
Myfriendandcolleague,HelenGoh,isabitoffoodencyclopedia.Iamalwaysastounded by how much she knows and how effortlessly she accesses herknowledge.After suggesting that I try this dish,which she hadn’t cooked foryears,Helenwentontorapidlyrecitethelonglistofingredientsandquantitiesasifshewerereadingfromhernotes.Shedidn’tmissasingleitem!
Serves2-4
1cupsplitredlentils11/2cupswater1bunchcilantro(31/2cups),plusextraleavestogarnish1smallonion,peeled21/2inchespeeledfreshginger3garliccloves,peeled1mildfreshgreenchile11/2tspblackmustardseeds4tbspsunfloweroil11/2tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin1/2tspgroundturmeric1/4tspsweetpaprika10curryleaves13/4cupspeeledchoppedtomatoes(freshorcanned)2tspsugar1/4tspfenugreek(optional)pinchofasafetida(optional)salt3/4 cupGreekyogurt 3/4 cup finelydicedcucumber11/2 tbspoliveoil1/3cup
unsaltedbutter11/2tbsplimejuiceWashthelentilsunderplentyofrunningcoldwater,thensoakinthe11/2cupsofwaterfor30minutes.
Cutthecilantrobunchsomewherearounditscentertogetaleafytophalfandastalkandroothalf.Chopuptheleavesroughly;setaside.Placethestalkendsinafoodprocessorbowlandadd theonion,ginger,garlicandchile-all roughlybroken. Pulse a few times to chop up everythingwithout turning them into apaste.
Putthemustardseedsinaheavypotandsetonmediumheat.Whentheybegintopop, add the choppedonionmix and the sunfloweroil.Reduceheat to lowand cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes. Add the ground coriander, cumin,turmeric, paprika and curry leaves, and continue cooking and stirring for 5minutes.
Next,addthelentilsandtheirsoakingwater,thetomatoes,sugar,fenugreek,andasafetida, if using, and some salt.Cover and simmer for about 30minutes, oruntilthelentilsarefullycooked.
Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyogurt,cucumber,oliveoilandsomesalt.
Stir thebutter, limejuiceandchoppedcilantroleavesintothelentils; tasteandseasongenerouslywithsalt.Divideamongbowls,spoontheyogurtontopandgarnishwithcilantroleaves.
CastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandGorgonzola
CastellucciolentilsfromUmbriaaretinybrownishjewelswithadelicateflavorandawonderfullytendertexture.LikePuylentils,theydon’tdisintegrateinthecooking,whichmakes themideal forsalads.Youcanget themfromItalianorgourmetmarkets,orusePuyinstead.Thissubstantialdish,whichisbesteatenatroom temperature, can be served on its own or with steamed seasonal greenssuchasbroccoliniorbabyfennel.
Serves4
Oven-driedtomatoes5plumtomatoes8thymesprigs1tbspoliveoil2tbspbalsamicvinegarsalt
1smallredonion,verythinlysliced1tbspgood-qualityredwinevinegar1tspMaldonseasalt11/3cupsCastellucciolentils3tbspoliveoil1garlicclove,crushedblackpepper3tbspchoppedchervilorparsley3tbspchoppedchives4tbspchoppeddill3ozmildGorgonzola,crumbled
To make the oven-dried tomatoes. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Quarter thetomatoes vertically and place skin-side down on a baking sheet lined withparchment paper. Arrange the thyme sprigs on top of them. Drizzle over theoliveoilandbalsamicvinegarandsprinklewithsomesalt.Roastfor11/2hours,oruntilsemi-dried.Discardthethymeandallowtocooldownslightly.
Meanwhile, place the redonion in amediumbowl, pourover thevinegar andsprinklewiththeseasalt.Stir,thenleaveforafewminutessotheonionsoftensabit.
Place the lentils in a pan of boilingwater (thewater should come 11/4 inchesabovethelentils)andcookfor20to30minutes,oruntiltender.Drainwellinasieveand,whilestillwarm,addtotheslicedonion.Alsoaddtheoliveoil,garlicandsomeblackpepper.Stirtomixandleaveasidetocooldown.Oncecool,addtheherbsandgentlymixtogether.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Toserve,pileupthelentilsonalargeplateorbowl,integratingtheGorgonzola
andtomatoesasyoubuildupthepile.Drizzlethetomatocookingjuicesontopandserve.
Socca
OnavisittosouthernFrancemypartner,Karl,andIweretakentoGraindeSel,aminuterestaurant inthevillageofCogolin,runbyaninspiringcouple,Anneand PhilippeAudibert.Among other brilliant dishesmade from local producethat Philippe buys daily in the local market, I was served a variation on therenowned pissaladière. Instead of the normal dough base, Philippe used soccabatter, a speciality ofNicemade from chickpea flour,water and olive oil.Hewasgenerousenoughtogivemetherecipe.
Serves4
2cupscherrytomatoes,halved51/2 tbsp olive oil, plusmore for drizzling 13/4 lbswhite onions, cut into thin
rings2tbspthymeleavessaltandblackpepper1/2tspwhitewinevinegar13/4cupschickpeaflour2cupswater2eggwhitescrèmefraîchetoserve
Preheat theoven to275°F.Spread the tomatoescut-sideupona smallbakingpanandsprinklethemwithsomesaltandpepperandadrizzleofoil.Roastfor25minutes,oruntilsemi-cooked.Theyarenotsupposedtodryoutcompletely.
Meanwhile,heatup4tablespoonsoliveoilinalargefryingpan.Addtheonions,thyme and some salt and pepper and cook on high heat, stirring, for about aminute. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 20minutes, stirringoccasionally.Youwanttheonionscompletelysoft,sweetandgoldenbrown,butnotverydark.Attheend,stirinthevinegar,thentasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Whenyoutakethetomatoesoutoftheoven,increasethetemperatureto325°F.
Put the chickpea flour,water, 11/2 tablespoons olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt andsomepepper in a bowl.Mixwellwith a handwhisk until the batter is totally
homogenous.Inaseparatebowlwhisktheeggwhites tosoftpeaksandgentlyfoldintothebatter.
Linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaperandbrushthepaperwithalittlebitofoil;setontheside.Thentakeasmallnonstickfryingpan,roughly6 inchesdiameterat itsbase,andbrush itwith thesmallestamountofoliveoil.Putonhighheatforacoupleofminutes,thenreduceheattomedium-highandpourinone-quarter of the socca batter. It should be about scant 1/4 inch thick. Afterabout2minutesairbubbleswillappearonthesurfaceandthepancakewillhaveset on its base. Use an offset spatula to release its edges from the pan, thencarefully lift and turn it over. Cook for another minute. Transfer to the linedbakingsheet.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.Whenallthepancakeshavebeenmade,placeintheovenfor5minutes.
To serve, spread the onion over the pancakes; they should be totally covered.Arrangetomatohalvesontop.Placeintheoventowarmupforabout4minutes.Servewarm,withcrèmefraîcheontheside.
Grains
Avocado,quinoaandfavabeansalad
Asimplesaladforaspringbrunch.Serveitwithgoodbreadandthat’sit.
Serves6
1cupquinoa1lb(3cups)shelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)2mediumlemons2smallripeavocados2garliccloves,crushed2bunchesbreakfastradishes,halvedlengthways1cuppurpleradishcress(orsmallpurplebasilleaves)1tbspgroundcumin1/3cupoliveoil1/4tspchileflakessaltandblackpepper
Placethequinoainasaucepanwithplentyofwater,bringtotheboilandsimmerfor9minutes.Draininafinesieve,rinseundercoldwaterandleavetodry.
Throw the fava beans into a pan of boilingwater, bring back to the boil andimmediatelydraininacolander.Refreshwithcoldwaterandleavetodry.Thengentlypresseachbeanwithyourfingerstoremovetheskins;discardthese.
Takethelemonsanduseasmallsharpknifetosliceoffthetopandbase.Standeach one on a chopping board and cut down the sides, following the naturalcurve, to remove the skin and white pith. Over a large mixing bowl, cut inbetween the membranes to release the individual segments into the bowl.Squeezethejuicefromthemembraneintothebowlwiththesegments.
Peelandstonetheavocados.Slicethinly,thenaddtothebowlandtosstocoverinthelemonjuice.Oncethequinoaisdry,transferittothebowl.Addthefavabeans,garlic,radishes,halftheradishcress,thecumin,oliveoil,chileflakesandsomesaltandpepper.Tossverygently,withoutbreakingtheavocado.Tasteandadd more salt and pepper, if you wish. Plate and garnish with the remainingcress.
Coconutricewithsambalandokra
Breakfast is the one meal in the day when cultural boundaries aren’t easilycrossed - even themost experimental and daring of eaters revert towhat theyknowandlike,which is theirmom’scooking.MyfriendHelenGoh,whowasbroughtupinMalaysia,findsitexcruciatinglydifficult tohaveanythinginthemorningbutthenationalbreakfastgrub,nasilemak.Nothingelseturnsheron.Mydishis inspiredbynasi lemak.Idareyoutoserveitforbreakfast!Andbewarned:itisveryhot.
Crisp-friedshallotsareavailable fromAsiangrocers.Youcanalsomake themyourself,orsubstitutedriedonionflakes.
Serves4
Sambal5freshredchiles(1ozintotal),seeded5driedredchiles(1/8ozintotal),seeded20babyshallots(4ozintotal),peeled1garlicclove,peeled1/2tspsalt1/2cupvegetableoil2tbspwater1tbspthicktamarindwater(seedlesstamarindpulpwhiskedwithalittlewater,
thenstrained)1tbspsugar
Rice12/3cupsbasmatirice1/2tspsalt3/4cupcoconutmilk11/2cupswater6kaffirlimeleaves(optional)6thinslicesoffreshginger
11/4lbs(6cups)okra,trimmed2tbspcrisp-friedshallotslargehandfulofroughlychoppedcilantro2limes,halved
Tomakethesambal.Placethefreshanddriedchiles,shallots,garlicandsaltinafoodprocessorandadd2tablespoonsoftheoilandthewater.Blitzforaboutaminute,oruntilyougetafinepaste(thiscanalsobemadeusingamortarandpestlebutwithouttheliquids;addtheseonceyouhaveapaste).
Setawokoralargeheavyfryingpanonhighheat.Oncehot,addtheremainingoilandheatupwell.Nowaddthechilepasteandstir.Reducetheheatatoncetoavoid burning and cook on a low simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 to 10minutes,oruntilyougetabeautifuldark-redoilypaste.Offtheheat,stirinthetamarindwaterandsugar.Setaside.
Tomaketherice.Washthericewellunderplentyofcoldrunningwater.Drainwellandputintoamediumsaucepan.Heatthericeupalittle,thenaddthesalt,coconutmilk,water, limeleavesandginger.Stirandbringto theboil.Reducetheheattoaminimum,coverandleavetosimmerfor12minutes.Removefromtheheatandleave,covered,for10minutes.Beforeserving,fluffupthericewithafork.
While the rice is cookingbringamediumpanofwater to theboil.Throw theokraintotheboilingwaterandcookfor2to3minutesonly,soitremainsfirm.Drain,rinseundercoldrunningwaterandleavetodry.
Whenyouarereadytoserve,reheatthesambalinitspan.Addtheokraandstirjusttowarmitup(don’tcookitanymore).Spoonsomericeintoeachservingbowl or plate.Topwith okra and sambal, and sprinklewith fried shallots andchopped cilantro. Place a lime half on the side of each bowl and encourageeverybodytosqueezeitsjuiceliberallyontop.
Lemonandeggplantrisotto
Thecrucialcomponentinthisdishisthestock,whichwillmakeorbreakit.Youcanquicklymakeonebycoveringsomearomaticvegetablesandherbs(carrot,celery, onion, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, lemongrass, fennel, thyme, etc.) withwaterandsimmeringforhalfanhour.LookattheParsnipDumplingsinBroth
foralengthierversion.Unlikesomeotherrisotti,thisonefeelslightasafeather-oralmost.
Serves4
2mediumeggplants1/2cupplus1tbspoliveoilcoarseseasalt1mediumonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,crushed7ozgood-qualityrisottorice1/2cupwhitewine31/4cupshotvegetablestockgratedzestof1lemon2tbsplemonjuice11/2 tbsp butter 1/2 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 oz) (or anothermature hard
cheese)blackpepper1/2cupshreddedbasilleavesStart by burning one of the eggplants.Once ready, remove from the heat andmakea longcut through theeggplant.Scoopout the soft fleshwhileavoidingtheskin.Discardtheskin.Chopthefleshroughlyandsetaside.
Cut theother eggplant into 1/2-inchdice.Heatup1/3cupof theoliveoil in afryingpanandfrytheeggplantdiceinbatchesuntilgoldenandcrisp.Transfertoacolanderandsprinklewithsalt.Leavetocool.
Put the onion and remaining oil in a heavy pan and fry slowly until soft andtranslucent.Add thegarlic and cook for a further3minutes.Turnup theheatandaddtherice,stirringtocoatitintheoil.Fryfor2to3minutes.Addthewine(itshouldhiss)andcookfor2to3minutes,oruntilnearlyevaporated.Turntheheatdowntomedium.
Nowstartaddingthehotstocktotherice,aladlefulatatime,waitinguntileachadditionhasbeenfullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextandstirringallthetime.Whenallthestockhasbeenadded,removethepanfromtheheat.Addhalfthelemonzest, thelemonjuice,grilledeggplant,butter,mostof theParmesanand3/4teaspoonsalt.Stirwell,thencoverandsetasidefor5minutes.Tasteandaddmoresalt,ifyoulike,plussomeblackpepper.
To serve, spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and sprinkle with the dicedeggplant,theremainingParmesan,thebasilandtherestofthelemonzest.
Farroandroastedpeppersalad
Ifirsttriedfarrowhenmyfriendandex-colleague,NirFeller,cookedwithitatOttolenghi inNottingHill. InitiallyIwasn’tquitesoldonit; it just tastedabittoo “healthy” for my liking. Since then, though, I have grown to appreciatefarro’snuttyaromaanditsrobusttexturethatgoessowellwithintenseflavors.
FarroistheItaliannameforanoldwheatvarietysimilarto,orpossiblyeventhesame as, emmer or spelt. It can be eaten by some people who are normallyintolerantofwheat.Itissoldinafewforms-whole,semi-pearledandpearled-andtheoneyouusewilldeterminethecookingtime,whichisanywherefrom15minutestoanhour.Whendoneitshouldbetenderbutretainarealbite.GetitinItalian or well-stocked supermarkets. Alternatively, use pearled spelt or pearlbarley.
Serves4asastarter
Dressingjuiceof1mediumlemon3tbspoliveoil1tbsphoney1/4 tsp ground allspice 1/4 tsp smoked paprika, plus extra to garnish 1/2 garlic
clove,crushed1/4tspfineseasalt3/4cupfarro2redbellpeppers10pittedblackolives,quarteredlengthways1tbspchoppedfreshoreganoorpickedthymeleaves3greenonions,thinlysliced4ozfeta,crumbled
Tomakethedressing.Whisktogetheralltheingredientsinabowlandsetaside.
Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addfarroandsimmeruntiljusttender.Draininasieve,rinseundercoldwaterandsetaside.
Preheatagrillpan tohigh.Usea small, sharpknife tocutaround the stemofeachbellpepperand lift itoutwith theseedsattached.Put thepepperson thegrillpanandgrill,turningthemeverynowandthen,untiltheyaretotallyblackontheoutside;thiswilltake30minutesormore.Whenready,removethepanfromtheheatandcoveritwithfoil.Oncethepeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,remove and discard the skin. Tear them by hand into roughly 3/8-inch-wideslices.
Place the cooked farro in a large mixing bowl and add the peppers, olives,oreganoor thyme,greenonionsandmostof thefeta, reservingsometofinish.Pouroverthedressingandgentlymixeverythingtogether.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyoulike.
Toserve,pileupthesaladonaplateorinabowlandfinishwiththereservedfetaandasprinkleofpaprika.
Steamedricewithherbs(or,actually,herbswithrice)
ThisIranianrice,calledsabzipolo,isnormallyservedwithfishbutworkswellwithalmostanythingelseandalsoonitsownwithjustacondiment.Insteadofthe yogurt and cream condiment you can serve tzatziki or a sweetish tomatosauce(seeOkrawithTomato,LemonandCilantro,withorwithouttheokra).
ThemethodIdescribeisveryparticularbutit isessentialyousticktoit togetincredibly light and fluffy steamed rice. There are also heaps of herbs here,reversing the usual proportions of herbs to the rest, which gives the rice itsdistinctearthyaroma.Buyyourherbsfromagreengrocerorfarmers’market,oryou’ll need dozens of the minuscule supermarket-size bunches. Although Ialwaysprefermanualchoppingofherbs,youcansaveyourmusclesbyusingafoodprocessorinthiscase.
Serves4asasidedish
11/4cupsbasmatirice2tspsalt1/2cupfinelychoppedgreenonion2cupsfinelychoppeddill2cupsfinelychoppedparsley(leavesandfinestalks)6cupsfinelychoppedcilantro(leavesandstalks)3tbspgrapeseedoranothervegetableoil1smallpotato,peeledandverythinlysliced3tbspwater1cupGreekyogurt1/2cupsourcream2tbspoliveoil
Placethericeinasieveandrinsethoroughlyunderrunningwater.Transfertoabowlandfillupwithenoughwatertocome3/8inchabovetherice.Addthesaltandstir.Leavetosoakfor1to2hours.
Take a large heavy pot and pour in the rice and its soaking liquid.Addmorefreshwater-aboutanother3cups-tocoverthericewell.Setonhighheatandbringtotheboil.Simmerforonlyaminuteorso,thenaddthegreenonionsandall theherbsandstir.Simmer foranother1 to2minutes,oruntil the rice justlosessomeofitshardnessbutisdefinitelynotcookedyet.Draininasieveandsetaside.
Rinseanddrythepot.Pourin2tablespoonsoftheoilandheatitovermediumheat. Carefully arrange the potato slices, slightly overlapping, in the pan. Frythem, without stirring, for about 2minutes, just to get a little color. Removefromtheheatandallowtocooldown.
Drizzle 2 tablespoons of thewater over the potatoes, then start filling the potwith the rice.Do it gradually, using a large spoon, buildingup the rice into aproper heap on top of the potatoes and making sure as little rice as possibletouchesthesidesofthepot.
Usethehandleofawoodenspoontomakefivedeepholesintherice,oneinthecenterandfouraroundit,all thewaydowntothepotatoes.Turnthehandletocarefully increase thediameterofeach“chimney” toabout1/2 inch; thesewillassistthesteaming.
Nowdrizzlethericewiththeremaining1tablespooneachofgrapeseedoilandwater.Coverwithatight-fittinglidandleaveonhighheatforaminuteortwo,just toheatup.Reduce theheat to lowandcook for20minutes.Turnoff theheat and leave the rice, covered, to keep on steaming on the residual heat foranother 20 minutes (if you have an electric stove, remove the pan from theburnertoawarmplaceforthelast10minutes).
Mixtheyogurtwiththesourcream.Foldintheoliveoilwithoutincorporatingitfully.Serveoverornexttotherice.
Yogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushrooms
Thisisawonderfullysoothingdishduetothesmoothtexturesofthemushroomsandbarley.Asamazingastheflatbreadsare,youdon’thavetomakethemifyouareshortoftime.Riceorcouscouswillbefinealternatives.
Serves6asastarter
Flatbreads1cupplus2tspwhole-wheatflour11/2tspbakingpowder1/2tspsalt3/4cupGreekyogurt3tbspchoppedfreshcilantro4tbspclarifiedbutter(oramixtureofmeltedbutterandvegetableoil)MushroomRagout1/2 cuppearl barley 3/4 ozdriedporcinimushrooms 3/4 cup lukewarmwater4
cupsmixedshiitakeandbuttonmushrooms,halved2tbspoliveoil5tbspbutter2thymesprigs1garlicclove,crushed1/2cupwhitewinesaltandblackpepper2tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/2tbspfinelychoppedpreservedlemon1tbsplemonjuice
6tbspGreekyogurt
Tomaketheflatbreads.Combinealltheingredients,apartfromthebutter,inabowlanduseyourhandstomixthemtogethertoadrydough;addmoreflourifneeded. Knead the dough for a minute or so, until it is smooth and uniform.Wrapitinplasticwrapandchillforatleastanhour.
Tomakethemushroomragout.Rinsethebarleywithcoldwater,thenplaceinamedium saucepan and coverwith plenty of freshwater. Simmer for 30 to 35minutes,oruntilaldente.
Place theporcini in abowl andcoverwith lukewarmwater; set aside.Put thefreshmushrooms in a heavypanwith the oil overmedium-highheat, half thebutter and the thyme, and sauté for 4minutes, stirring occasionally.Once themushroomshavesoftened,addthegarlicandwineandallowtobubbleawayforabout5minutes.
Next, add the porcini and their soaking liquid, leaving behind any grit in thebowl, plus some salt and pepper. Simmer on low heat for about 10 minutes.Finally, stir in the remaining butter with the parsley, preserved lemon, lemonjuiceandcookedbarley.Youwillnowhaveaflavorfulmushroomstewwithathicksauce.Addmorewaterifneededandtasteforseasoning.Setaside;reheatbeforeserving.
Whenreadytomaketheflatbreads,divideyourdoughintosixpieces.Rollintoballs, then flatten themwith a rolling pin into round discs about 1 inch thick.Heatsomeclarifiedbutterinanonstickpanandfrytheflatbreads,oneatatime,onmediumheat forabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addmorebutterasyouneeditandkeeptheflatbreadswarmastheyarecooked.
Toserve, foldeachwarmflatbread inhalfor intoquartersand topwithwarmragout,aspoonfulofyogurtandasprinkleofparsley.
Barleyandpomegranatesalad
You’ll be surprised by how simple this salad is to make, considering howspectacular it tastes. I can almost promise that it is going to become a dailyaffair!ItwillgowellwithFriedLeeksaswellasmanyfattycutsofmeat.
Serves4
1cuppearlbarley6celerystalks(leavespickedandreserved),cutintosmalldice1/4cupoliveoil
3tbspsherryvinegar2smallgarliccloves,crushed2/3tspgroundallspicesaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppeddill3tbspchoppedparsleyseedsfrom2largepomegranates
Rinse the barleywith coldwater, thenplace in amedium saucepan and coverwithplentyoffreshwater.Simmerfor30to35minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillwithabite.
Drain the barley and transfer to a mixing bowl.While it is still hot, add thecelery, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, allspice and some salt and pepper. Stir, thenleavetocooldowncompletely.
Oncecool,addtheherbs,celeryleavesandpomegranateseedsandmixin.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningtoyourliking,thenserve.
Kısır
ThisismytakeonaclassicTurkishdishthatresonateswithvariationsallovertheLevant.Serveitwithbutterlettuceleavesaspartofamezzeselection.
Serves4
2largeonions,finelychopped6tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tbsptomatopaste4mediumtomatoes,peeledandchopped1/2cupwater1cupmediumbulgurwheat11/2tsppomegranatemolasses1tbsplemonjuice6tbspchoppedparsley3greenonions,finelyshredded,plusextratofinish2freshgreenchiles,seededandfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushed1tspgroundcuminsaltandblackpepperseedsfrom1mediumpomegranatehandfulofmintleaves,somewholeandsomeroughlyshredded
Placetheonionsandoliveoilinalargepanandsautéonmediumheatforabout5minutes, or until translucent. Add the tomato paste and stir with a woodenspoonfor2minutes.Addthetomatoesandsimmeronlowheatforafurther4minutes.Nowaddthewaterandbringtotheboil.Removeimmediatelyfromtheheatandstirinthebulgur.
Next,addthemolasses,lemonjuice,parsley,greenonions,chiles,garlic,cuminandsomesaltandpepper.Stirwell,thenleaveasideuntilthedishreachesroomtemperature or is just lukewarm. Taste it and adjust the seasoning; it willprobablyneedplentyofsalt.
Spoon the kısır onto serving dishes and flatten it out roughly with a spoon,creatingawave-likepatternonthesurface.Scatterpomegranateseedsallover,drizzlewithoilandfinishwithmintandgreenonion.
Cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurt
This is what you should cook on a late Sunday morning to really spoil yourfamily. I can’t get enough of it. Additions will be welcomed: consider peas,greenbeans,friedonions,butteredsunflowerseedsandevengoldenraisins.
Serves4
4tbsppeanutoil,plusextratofinish2mediumonions,finelychopped4garliccloves,crushed6freshcurryleaves8cardamompods2tspcorianderseeds2tspgroundturmeric2freshgreenchiles,thinlyslicedcoarseseasalt2cupsbasmatirice3cupsplus2tbspwater1tbspwhitewinevinegar8mediumeggs11/3cupsparsleyleaves,chopped5cupscilantroleaves,chopped6tbsplimejuice8tbspGreekyogurtblackpepper
Preheattheovento350°F.Startwiththerice.Heatupthepeanutoilinalarge,heavy,ovenproofsaucepanforwhichyouhaveatight-fittinglid.Addtheonionsandgarlicandsautéonlowheatfor8minutes.Addthecurryleaves,cardamom,corianderseeds, turmeric,chilesand1teaspoonsalt.Continuetocookandstirfor4minutesonmediumheat.
Addthericeandstir tocoatintheoil.Addthewater(itshouldcome3/8inchabove the rice). Cover the pan and put it into the oven. Cook for about 25minutes. By this point the rice should be totally cooked. When you check,removethelidverybrieflysoyoudon’t loseall thesteaminthepan.Removethepanfromtheoven,keepingitcovered,andsetitasidesomewherewarm.
Fillashallowsaucepanwithenoughwaterforawholeeggtocookin.Addthevinegar and bring to a rapid boil. Carefully break each egg into a cup, thengently pour into the boilingwater. Immediately remove the pan from the heatandsetitaside.Afterabout4minutestheeggshouldbepoachedtoperfection.Using a slotted spoon carefully transfer the poached egg to a bowl of warmwater to keep it from cooling down.Once all the eggs are done, dry themonpapertowels.
Whenyou are nearly finished poaching the eggs, stir the parsley, cilantro andlimejuiceintothericeandfluffitupwithafork.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.
Dividethericeamongindividualservingbowlsandspoonyogurtontop.Placetwo eggs on each portion, drizzle some oil on top and sprinkle with salt andpepper.
Freekehpilaf
We normally enjoy grains once they have matured and dried, but there is awidespread culinary tradition of consuming green, semi-mature grains, whichtaste grassier and are more nutritious than the dried version. Throughout theMiddleEastitiscommontoprocessyoungandgreendurumwheatintofreekeh.Thisisdonebyliterallyburningthewheatheadinordertoscorchthechaffandthustoassistremovingthegrain.Theresultislightlycharredgreengrainswithawonderfulsmokyaroma,whichareoftenusedlikericeorbulgurwheat.Freekehisn’teasytofindbutyoushouldcomeacrossitinMiddleEasterngroceryshops.Oryoucanusebulgurasasubstitute,inwhichcasereducethecookingtimeby10minutesandleavetostandaswiththefreekeh.
Thekeytothisdishisgoodstockwithalotofflavor.AsArabsnormallycookfreekehinchickenormuttonstock,Isuggestreducingagoodvegetablestockbyhalftointensifyit.
Serves2-4
2mediumonions,thinlysliced2tbspbutter1tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1cupfreekeh(orbulgurwheat)1/4 tspgroundcinnamon1/4 tspgroundallspice11/4cupsgood-qualityreduced
vegetablestocksaltandblackpepper1/2cupGreekyogurt11/2tsplemonjuice1/2garlicclove,crushed1/8cupfinely
choppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/8cupfinelychoppedmint2/3cupfinelychoppedcilantro2tbsppinenuts,toastedandroughlybroken
Placetheonions,butterandoliveoilinalargeheavypotandsautéonamediumheat, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20minutes, or until the onion is soft andbrown.
Meanwhile,soak the freekeh incoldwater for5minutes.Drain inasieveandrinsewellundercoldrunningwater.Drainwell.
Add the freekehandspices to theonions, followedby thestockandsomesaltand pepper. Stirwell. Bring to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat to a bareminimumand leave to simmer for 15minutes.Remove thepan from theheatandleaveitcoveredfor5minutes.Finally,removethelidandleavethepilaftocooldownalittle,aboutanother5minutes.
Whileyouwait,mixtheyogurtwiththelemonjuice,garlicandsomesalt.
Stir the herbs into the warm (not hot) pilaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning.Spoon onto serving dishes and top each portion with a generous dollop ofyogurt.Sprinklewithpinenutsandparsleyandfinishwithatrickleofoliveoil.
Itamar’sbulgurpilaf
Fulloflittlesurprises-wholepinkpeppercorns,currants,corianderseeds-thisis one of themost comforting dishes I’ve come across.You can serve itwithLeek Fritters and their sauce to create a light meal from heaven, or next toSmoky Frittata with someGreek yogurt on the side. Amillion thank-yous toItamarSrulovich.
Serves4-6
about6tbspoliveoil4smallwhiteonions,thinlysliced3redbellpeppers,cutintothinstrips21/2tbsptomatopaste1tbspsugar2tsppinkpeppercorns2tbspcorianderseeds2/3cupcurrants1cupmediumbulgurwheat13/4cupswatersaltandblackpepperhandfulofchoppedchives
Heat up the oliveoil in a largepot and sauté theonions andpeppers togetherovermedium-highheatfor12to15minutes,oruntiltheysoftenupcompletely.
Next,add the tomatopaste,sugar,spicesandcurrantsandstirasyoucookforabout2minutes.Addthebulgur,water,andsomesaltandpepper.Stir tomix,then bring to the boil.As soon as thewater boils, cover the potwith a tight-fittinglid,removefromtheheatandleavetositforatleast20minutes.
Finally,fluffupthebulgurwithaforkandstirinthechives.Ifthepilafseemsdry,addalittlemoreoliveoil.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;it’slikelytoneedmoresaltandpepper.Servewarm.
Mangoandcoconutricesalad
Everybody knows now that the undisputed king of mangoes is the IndianAlphonso.Itisintenselysweetandhasanunbeatableperfumedaroma.I’dgoasfarassayingthatyouhaven’ttastedarealmangountilyou’vetriedanAlphonso(andnobodyispayingmeforthis).Theseason,though,isveryshort-mid-ApriltotheendofMay-sotrytopreparethissaladthen.
Serves4
2/3cupjasmineorbasmatirice1tspunsaltedbuttersalt1/2cupwater1cuplooselypackedThaibasil1cupCamargueredrice1redbellpepper,thinlysliced2tbspmintleaves,roughlychopped2/3cupcilantroleaves,roughlychopped2greenonions,thinlysliced1freshredchile,seededandfinelychoppedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1largemangoor2smallerones,cutroughlyinto1-inchdice1/2cuproastedsaltedpeanuts,roughlychopped2/3cupflakedcoconut2tbsppeanutoil3/4cupcrisp-friedshallots(homemadeorbought,optional)Startbycookingtherice.Putthejasminericeandbutterinasmallsaucepanandplaceonamediumheat.Addalittlesalt,thewaterandhalftheThaibasil(keeptheleavesattachedtothestalk).Bringtotheboil,thencoverandcookonaslowsimmerfor15to20minutes.Removeanddiscardthebasil.Spreadoutthericeonaflattraytocooldown.
Cooktheredriceinplentyofboilingwater(asyouwouldcookpastabutwithnosalt)for20minutes,oruntilitiscookedthrough.Drainandspreadonatraytocooldown.
Pickofftheleavesoftheremainingbasilandchopthemuproughly.Placethemin a large mixing bowl. Add the jasmine and red rice together with all theremainingingredients,apartfromtheshallots,andstirjusttomix;donotstirtoomuch or the mango pieces will disintegrate. Taste and adjust the seasoning.Transferthesaladintoservingbowlsandgarnishwithcrisp-friedshallots,ifyoulike.
QuinoasaladwithdriedPersianlime
I recently started using a new addictive substance - the small dried limes (orlemons) that appearwidely in Iranian cooking.They add a fantastic sharpnessanduniqueperfumedaromatostewsandmarinades.Forlong-cookedwetdishesyoujustthrowonein,lightlyperforated,anditwillimpartitsflavortothewholedish. In thissalad, though,Iuse it inpowderedform.Unfortunately this isnotsimple toachievebecause the limesare rockhard. Ifyouhavea spicegrinderyoushouldbefine;however,afoodprocessorwillstruggleandgiveyousomepowderthatyou’llthenneedtosieve.Youcanbuythelimesinpowderformbutthisisnotaspotentaswhatyoumakeyourself.Youcanfinddriedlimesonlineatkalustyans.comandfrommostMiddleEasternandNorthAfricanshops.
Serves4-6
2mediumsweetpotatoes(about12ozeach)7tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper1cupmixedbasmatiandwildrice1cupquinoa4garliccloves,thinlysliced3tbspshreddedsageleaves3tbsproughlychoppedoregano2tbspgrounddriedPersianlime6tbspshreddedmint4greenonions(greenpartsonly),thinlysliced,plusextratofinish1tsplemon
juice
6ozfeta,crumbled
Preheattheovento400°F.Peelthesweetpotatoesandcutthemintoroughly1-inchdice.Spreadinabakingpanlinedwithparchmentpaper,drizzleoverhalfthe oil and sprinklewith salt and pepper.Roast for 20 to 25minutes, or untiltender.
Meanwhile, cook the basmati andwild rice as instructed on the packet; drain.Placethequinoainapanwithplentyofboilingwaterandsimmerfor9minutes;draininafinesieve.Whendry(butstillwarm),transferthericeandquinoatoalargemixingbowl.
Pourtheremainingoilintoasmallfryingpantoheatup,thenfrythegarlicforabout30seconds,oruntil it turns lightgolden.Add thesageandoreganoandstirasyoufryforaboutaminute;watchtobesurethattheherbsorgarlicdon’tburn.Pourthecontentsofthepanoverthericeandquinoa.
Next,addtheroastedsweetpotatowithitsoil.Addthelimepowder,mint,greenonions, lemon juice, feta, and some salt and pepper. Toss everything togethergently,beingcarefulnottomushupthesweetpotatoandfeta.Tasteandadjustthe seasoning. Serve warmish, or at room temperature, garnished with greenonions.
Pasta,Polenta,Couscous
Lemonandgoatcheeseravioli
Thetrade-offforhavingtomakeyourownpastahereisthatthere’snosaucetolabor over. The combination of melting cheese, grapeseed oil and pink
peppercorns is delicate yet clearly present and satisfying. Choose a relativelysoftandquitemildgoatcheese.
Serves4asastarter
Pastadough3tbspoliveoil3mediumeggs111/2oz(about23/4cups)“00”pastaflour,plusextraforrolling1/4 tspground
turmericgratedzestof3lemonssemolina
Filling11ozsoftgoatcheese1/3tspMaldonseasaltpinchofchileflakesblackpepper1eggwhite,beaten
2tsppinkpeppercorns,finelycrushed1tspchoppedtarragongratedzestof1lemongrapeseedoillemonjuice(optional)
To make the pasta dough. Whisk together the oil and eggs. Put the flour,turmeric and lemon zest in a food processor, add the oil and eggmixture andblendtoacrumblydough.Itmightrequireextraflouroroil.Oncethedoughhascometogetherandissmooth(youmayneedtoworkitalittlebyhand),divideitinto four thick, rectangular blocks.Wrap them in plasticwrap and chill for atleast30minutes,orupto2days.
Lightlydustaworksurfacewithflour.Takeonepieceofdoughandflattenitonthe floured surface with a rolling pin. Set your pasta machine to the widestsetting and pass the dough through. Repeat, narrowing the setting by a notcheachtime,untilyougettothelowestsetting.Wheneachsheetisrolled,keepit
underamoisttowelsoitdoesn’tdryout.
Tomakethefilling.Combinethefillingingredients,apartfromtheeggwhite,inabowlandcrushtogetherwithafork.
Useapastrycutterortherimofaglasstostampoutroughly3-inchdiscsfromthepastasheets.Toshapeeachraviolo,brushadiscwithalittleeggwhiteandplaceaheapedteaspoonoffillinginitscenter.Placeanotherpastadiscontop.Dipyourfingersinflour,thengentlypressoutanyairasyousealtheedgesofthe two discs together. You should end up with a pillow-shaped centersurrounded by an edge that is just under 3/8 inchwide. Seal the sides of theedges together firmlyuntilyoucan’tseeaseamwhere the twodiscsmeet.Astheyaremade,placetheraviolionadishtowelortraysprinkledwithsemolina.Leavetodryfor10to15minutes.(Youcannowcoverthetraywithplasticwrapandkeeptheravioliinthefridgeforaday.)Whenreadytocook,bringalargepanofsaltedwatertotheboil.Cookthepastafor2to3minutes,oruntilaldente.Drainanddivideamongfourplates.Sprinklewithpinkpeppercorns, tarragonandlemonzest.Drizzlegrapeseedoilover theravioliandaroundthem,sprinklewithextrasaltandasquirtof lemonjuice, ifyoulike,andserveatonce.
Crunchypappardelle
Iusepanko,thecrispJapanesebreadcrumbs,toaddtexturetothiscreamypasta.The sauce dries out easily so I add some of the pasta’s cooking liquid beforeserving;makesureitisquiterunny.
Serves2
1/4cupoliveoil31/2cupsbuttonmushrooms,halved7tbspwhitewine1bayleaf3thymesprigs,leavespickedandchopped1/2tspsugar2/3cupheavycreamsaltandblackpeppergratedzestof1lemon1garlicclove,crushed3tbspchoppedparsley3tbsppanko1bunchbroccolini9ozdriedpappardelle
Bringalargepotofsaltedwaterandasmallpotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Heatthe olive oil over medium-high heat in a large saucepan and sauté themushroomsuntiltheystarttakingoncolor,stirringoccasionally.Addthewine,bayleaf,thymeandsugar.Bringtotheboilandreducetheliquidbytwo-thirds.Add the creamand stir tomix.Taste andaddplentyof salt andpepper.Keepwarm.
Mixtogetherthelemonzest,garlicandparsley.Inapanovermediumheat,toastthepankountilgolden,stirringoccasionally.
Pickany leaves from thebroccolini, thencut into21/2-inch-longpieces (stalksand florets). If the stalks are thick, cut them along the center in half or intoquarters.Blanchinthesmallpotofboilingwaterfor2minutesanddrain.
Addthepastatothelargepotofboilingwater.Whenthepastaisjustready,addthebroccolinitothecreamsaucetoreheat.Drainthepappardelle,keepingsomeofthecookingliquid,andstirwiththecreamsauce;addhalfoftheparsleymix.Ifthesauceseemsdry,addsomeofthereservedcookingliquid.
Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Stir the rest of the parsleymix into thepankoandsprinklegenerouslyoverthepappardelle,thenserveimmediately.
Pastaandfriedzucchinisalad
Iputtogooduseheremygrandmother’sfriedzucchini,hersignaturePassoverdish.Theyareasbeautifulontheirownastheyareinthissalad,whichmakesideal picnic grub. The pasta I’ve used is strozzapreti, which literally means“priestchoker”!Feelfreetosubstituteanotherinterestingshortpastashape.
Serves4
2/3cupsunfloweroil3mediumzucchini,cut into1/4-inch-thickslices11/2 tbsp redwinevinegar3/4
cupfrozenedamame2cupsbasilleaves,shreddedcoarsely1/4cupparsleyleaves1/3cupoliveoilsaltandblackpepper9ozstrozzapretiorpennegratedzestof1lemon11/2tbspsmallcapers7ozbuffalomozzarella,tornbyhandintochunks
Bringalargepotofsaltedwater toaboil.Heat thesunfloweroil inamediumsaucepan over medium-high heat. Fry the zucchini slices in a few batches,makingsureyoudon’tcrowdthem,for3minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownonbothsides; turn themover onceonly.As they are cooked, transfer to a colander todrain.Tipthezucchinislicesintoabowl,pouroverthevinegarandstir,thensetaside.
Blanchtheedamamefor3minutesinboilingwater;drain,refreshunderrunningcoldwaterandsetasidetodry.
Combinehalf thebasil,allof theparsleyandtheoliveoil inafoodprocessor,addingabitofsaltandpepper.Blitztoasmoothsauce.
Cook the pasta until al dente; drain and rinse under a stream of cold water.Returntothepaninwhichitwascooked.
Pourthezucchiniandtheirjuicesoverthepasta.Addtheedamame,basilsauce,lemon zest, capers andmozzarella. Stir gently together, then taste and seasonwithplentyofsaltandpepper.Beforeserving,stirintheremainingbasil.
Greencouscous
Agood-looking and evenbetter tasting side salad. It has strong flavors and isextremely healthful but still feels light and comforting. Serve itwith PoachedBaby Vegetables or with fish. Adding some feta will make it a bit moresubstantial.
Serves4
1cupcouscous3/4cupboilingwaterorvegetablestock1smallonion,thinlysliced1tbspoliveoil1/4tspsalt1/4tspgroundcuminHerbpaste1/3cupchoppedparsley1cupchoppedcilantro2tbspchoppedtarragon2tbspchoppeddill2tbspchoppedmint6tbspoliveoil
1/2cupunsaltedpistachios, toastedandroughlychopped3greenonions,finely
sliced1freshgreenchile,finelysliced11/4cuparugulaleaves,choppedPlace the couscous in a large bowl and coverwith the boilingwater or stock.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandleavefor10minutes.
Meanwhile, fry the onion in the olive oil on medium heat until golden and
completelysoft.Addthesaltandcuminandmixwell.Leavetocoolslightly.
Tomake theherbpaste.Placeall the ingredients ina foodprocessorandblitzuntilsmooth.
Addtheherbpastetothecouscousandmixeverythingtogetherwellwithaforkto fluff it up. Now add the cooked onion, the pistachios, green onions, greenchileandarugulaandgentlymix.Serveatroomtemperature.
Saffrontagliatellewithspicedbutter
Counterintuitive as this combination of pasta withMoroccan-style buttermayseem, it is absolutely delicious and I am sure that once tried you’ll keep oncomingbacktoit.Insteadofhomemadeyoucangoforagoodvarietyofdriedpastaandaddadecentpinchofsaffronthreadstothecookingwater.
Serves4
2tspsaffronthreads4tbspboilingwater4mediumeggs4tbspoliveoil151/2oz(31/2cups)“00”pastaflour,plusextraforrolling1tspgroundturmeric
Spicedbutter1cup(2sticks)butter4tbspoliveoil8shallots,finelychopped1tspgroundginger1tspsweetpaprika1tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcinnamon1tspcayennepepper1/2tspchileflakes1/2tspgroundturmeric1tspsaltblackpepper
2/3cuppinenuts,toastedandroughlychopped4tbsproughlychoppedmint4tbsproughlychoppedparsley
Placethesaffroninasmallbowlwiththeboilingwaterandleavetoinfuseforatleast10minutes.Thenaddtheeggsandoilandbeattomix.Placetheflourandturmericinthebowlofafoodprocessorandaddthesaffronmix.Blenduntilacrumblydoughisformed.Youmayneedalittlemoreoilorflourtoadjustthe
doughtotherequiredconsistency-neitherstickynorverydry.
Lightly dust your surfacewith flour, tip out the dough and knead into a ball.Workfora fewminutes,addingmoreflour ifyouneed,until itbecomessilkysoft.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandchillfor30minutes,oruptoaday.
Divide thedough into twopieces.Keeponewellcovered.Usinga rollingpin,flatten theotherpiece intoa thinrectangle.Set thepastamachine to itswidestsetting and pass the dough through. Continue rolling the pasta, narrowing thesettingbyanotcheverytime,untilyougettothelowestsetting.
Foldupthepastasheettwicealongitslength,sprinklingsomeflourbetweenthelayers.Usealargeknifetocutlongstripsthatare3/4inchwide.Hangthemonthebackofachairtodryfor10minutes.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.
Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.
Tomakethespicedbutter.Placethebutterandoilinafryingpanandcooktheshallots gently for about 10minutes, or until they soften and the butter turnsslightlybrown.Nowaddallthespices,thesaltandsomepepper.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.
Cookthetagliatellefor2to3minutes,oruntilaldente.Drainandreturntothesaucepan.Pourthespicedbutteroverthepastaandstirwell,thendivideamongfourplates.Sprinklewiththepinenutsandchoppedherbsandserve.
Theultimatewintercouscous
Someonecomplained to theGuardian about the long listof ingredients in thisrecipe.ButIknewitwasasuccesswhenafriendspotteditonthemenu(withaduecredit)oftheSunandDoves,acoolandartypubinCamberwell.
Serves4,orevenmore
2mediumcarrots,peeledandcutinto3/4-inchchunks2mediumparsnips,peeledandcutinto3/4-inchchunks8shallots,peeled
2cinnamonsticks4staranise3bayleaves5tbspoliveoilsalt1/2 tsp ground ginger 1/4 tsp ground turmeric 1/4 tsp hot paprika 1/4 tsp chile
flakes21/2cupscubedpumpkinorbutternutsquash(froma10ozsquash)1/2cup dried apricots, roughly chopped 1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshlycooked)
11/2cupschickpeacookingliquidand/orwater1cupcouscouslargepinchofsaffron1cupboilingvegetablestock3tbspbutter,brokenintopieces2tbspharissa1ozpreservedlemon,finelychopped2cupscilantroleaves
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a largeovenproofdish.Addthecinnamonsticks,staranise,bayleaves,4tablespoonsoftheoil,3/4teaspoonsaltandalltheotherspicesandmixwell.Placeintheovenandcookfor15minutes.
Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35minutes, bywhich time the vegetables should have softenedwhile retaining abite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid
and/orwater.Returntotheovenandcookforafurther10minutes,oruntilhot.
About15minutesbefore thevegetables are ready,put the couscous in a largeheatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and 1/2teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowlwithplasticwrapandleaveforabout10minutes.Thenaddthebutterandfluffupthecouscouswithaforkuntilthebuttermeltsin.Coveragainandleavesomewherewarm.
To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa andpreserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon thevegetablesontothecenterofthecouscous.Finishwithplentyofcilantroleaves.
Mushroomandherbpolenta
Whencookingpolentamyfatheralwaysmakesmuchmorethanheneeds.Halfofitheservesrightawayintherunnystate,likeamash,withaflavorfulsauce.Theresthespreadsontoanoiledsurfaceandallowstoset.Thenextdayhecutsout chunks, fries them in olive oil and serves with a chunky vegetable salad(tomato, cucumber, romaine lettuce)dressed lightlywith redwinevinegarandolive oil. The dish here uses soft polenta, but you may want to double thequantitytofollowmyfather’sidea.
Notethattherearetwotypesofpolentameal(orcornmeal)available-aquickorinstantvariety and the traditional, slow-cookingone.Formostpurposes I findthatthequickpolentaisgoodenough.Eitheronecanbeusedforthisdish.
Serves2
4tbspoliveoil4cupsmixedmushrooms,verylargeoneshalved2garliccloves,crushed1tablespoonchoppedtarragon1tablespoonchoppedthyme1tablespoontruffleoilsaltandblackpepper21/4cupsvegetablestock1/2cuppolenta(instantortraditional)3ozParmesan,
grated21/2tbspbutter1teaspoonfinelychoppedrosemary1tablespoonchoppedchervil4ozTaleggio(rindremoved),cutinto3/8-inchslices
Heathalf theoliveoil ina large fryingpanovermedium-highheat.Oncehot,addhalfof themushroomsandfry fora fewminutes,oruntil justcooked; trynot to move them much so you get golden-brown patches on their surface.Removefromthepan,andrepeatwiththerestofthemushroomsandoil.Offtheheat, return all themushrooms to the pan and add the garlic, tarragon, thyme,truffleoilandsomesaltandpepper.Keepwarm.
Bringthestocktotheboilinasaucepan.Slowlystirinthepolenta,thenreducetheheattotheminimumandcook,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoon.Thepolentaisreadywhenitleavesthesidesofthepanbutisstillrunny.Ifyouareusing instant polenta this shouldn’t takemore than 5minutes;with traditionalpolenta it could takeup to50minutes (if it seems todryout, add somemorestockorwaterbutjustenoughtokeepitatathickporridgeconsistency).
Preheat the broiler. When the polenta is ready, stir in the Parmesan, butter,rosemaryandhalf thechervil.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Spread thepolentaoveraheatproofdishandtopwiththeTaleggio.Placeunderthebroileruntilthecheesebubbles.Remove,topwiththemushroomsandtheirjuices,andreturntothe broiler for aminute towarm up. Serve hot, garnishedwith the remainingchervil.
Sweetcornpolenta
Polentamadefromfreshcornisalmostlikebabyfood,butinagoodsense.Itissmooth,sweetandsoothing,abit likeachunkysavoryporridge.It ismyidealheartwarming supper meal. Just keep in mind that it is nothing like regularpolentamadefromcornmeal-itissofterandnotassubstantial.
Thisdish isavariationonarecipeby twoinspiringIsraeli foodwriters,HaimCohenandEliLandau.
Serves4
Eggplantsauce2/3cupvegetableoil1mediumeggplant,cutinto3/4-inchdice2tsptomatopaste1/4cupwhitewine1cupchoppedpeeledtomatoes(freshorcanned)61/2tbspwater1/4tspsalt1/4tspsugar1tbspchoppedoregano
Polenta6earsofcorn21/4cupswater3tbspbutter,diced7ozfeta,crumbled1/4tspsaltblackpepper
Tomake the eggplant sauce. Heat up the oil in a large saucepan and fry theeggplantonmediumheatforabout15minutes,oruntilnicelybrown.Drainoffasmuchoilasyoucananddiscardit.Addthetomatopastetothepanandstirwiththeeggplant.Cookfor2minutes,thenaddthewineandcookfor1minute.Addthechoppedtomatoes,water,salt,sugarandoreganoandcookforafurther5minutestogetadeep-flavoredsauce.Setaside;warmitupwhenneeded.
Tomakethepolenta.Removetheleavesand“silk”fromeachearofcorn,thenchopoffthepointedtopandstalk.Standeachearuprightonitsbaseanduseasharpknifetoshaveoffthekernels.Youwanttohave11/4lbsofkernels.
Placethekernelsinamediumsaucepanandcoverthemwiththewater.Cookfor12minutes on a low simmer.Use a slotted spoon to lift the kernels from thewater and into a food processor; reserve the cooking liquid. Process them forquiteafewminutes,tobreakasmuchofthekernelcaseaspossible.Addsomeofthecookingliquidifthemixturebecomestoodrytoprocess.
Now return the cornpaste to the panwith the cooking liquid and cook,whilestirring, on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the mixture thickens to amashedpotatoconsistency.Foldinthebutter,thefeta,saltandsomepepperandcookforafurther2minutes.Tasteandaddmoresaltifneeded.
Dividethepolentaamongshallowbowlsandspoonsomewarmeggplantsauceinthecenter.
FruitwithCheese
Figswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrette
Fresh figsareavailable in summerand thenmakeanother short appearance inautumn.When they are good they are amazing, a word I use way too often,
althoughinthiscaseItotallystandbehindit.Theunctuoussweetnessofafreshfig,combinedwithitsripe-richtexture,isunbeatable.InIsraelandPalestinefigtreesaretobefoundeverywhere,andpickingthefruitandeatingitstraightoffthe tree is a childhood experience I am afraid I can’t replicate in the UnitedKingdom.Still,IcanbuygoodFrenchorItalianfigs,adayortwoold,fromLaFromagerie in London. Good figs are heavy and slightly squidgy and have anoticeablesweetsmell;theyoftentendtocrackattheirbase.Sticktothoseandyou’llbefine.Butnomatterwhatyoudo,don’tbuyunder-ripesupermarketfigsthathavebeencargoedherefromtheendsoftheworld.Useaveryyoungandcreamygoatcheese(seeCaramelizedFennelwithGoatCheese,page172).
Serves4
1shallot,finelychopped1/2tspDijonmustard2tsppomegranatemolassessaltandblackpepper3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish11/2cupsarugula3/4cupmixedpurpleandgreenbasilleaves8ripefigs,atroom
temperature21/2ozyoungandcreamygoatcheesePlace the shallot,mustard and pomegranatemolasses in amedium bowl.Addsomesaltandpepperandwhiskvigorouslyasyouslowlypourintheoliveoil.Youareaimingforahomogenousdressing.
Add most of the arugula and basil leaves to the dressing, reserving some tofinish the salad, and toss gently. Lift the dressed leaves onto a large servingplate,spreadingthemouttolineit.
Cut the figs vertically into quarters and arrangeover the leaves.Next, dot thefigsandleaveswithteaspoonfulsofcheese.Scatter thereservedleavesontop,drizzlewithextraoilandseasonwithsomesaltandpepper.
Goatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeaches
Back in the 1990s I was the pastry chef at Launceston Place, a restaurant inLondon that was regularly haunted by politicians, English nobility and, mostnotably,byPrincessDiana.Inthosedays-andhowdatedthisseemsnow-theyhadadeliciousdouble-bakedgoatcheese soufflé starter. Itnevercameoff themenuandhadalsobecomearegularfeatureinmanyotherrestaurants.Theonlyvariation allowedwas the sweet seasonal condiment that camewith it.This ismylittletributetothemandto‘90sfood.
Serves6-10,dependingonthesizeofyourramekins
Poachedpeaches2/3cupwater2/3cupwhitewine3/4 cup sugar 1/2 tspblackpeppercorns 1/2 vanillapod, split and seeds scraped
out2to3mediumpeaches,peeled
5tbspunsaltedbutteratroomtemperature,plusextratobrushtheramekins1/2
cupgroundhazelnuts1cupplus2tbspmilk1bayleaf1/2onion,studdedwithafewcloves1/3cupall-purposeflour6ozhardgoatcheese(skinremoved),brokenintopieces5eggs,separated,plus
1eggwhite1/3tspsalt3tbspheavycreampersoufflé,ifreheating
Tomakethepoachedpeaches.Putalltheingredientsinamediumsaucepan(thepeachesmaynotbetotallycoveredwithliquid;thisisfine).Bringtoasimmerandcookgently,covered,forabout15minutes,turningthepeachesoveronce.Theyneedtobesoftbutshouldn’tdisintegrate.Leavethemtocooldowninthejuices.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put a large roasting pan inside and pour into it
enoughboilingwatertocome3/4inchupitssides.Takeindividualramekinsandbrush their sides andbottomswith soft butter. Spoon in groundhazelnuts andturntheramekinstocoat theinsideevenly.Removeanyexcessnutsandplacetheramekinsinthefridge.
Inasmallsaucepancombinethemilk,bayleafandonion.Bringtotheboil,thensetaside.Takeamediumsaucepan,setonmediumheatandmeltthebutter.Addtheflourasyoustirwithawoodenspoonandcookwhilestirringfor2minutes.Discardthebayleafandonionandgraduallyaddthemilktothebuttermixasyoustir.Continuecookingandstirringfor3minutesasthemixturethickens.Offtheheat,stirinthecheese,thentheyolksandsalt.Transfertoamixingbowl.
Inaseparatebowlwhisktheeggwhitestosoftpeaks,thengentlyfoldthemintothecheesemix.Divideamongtheramekins,fillingthemalmosttothebrim.Setthemcarefully in the panofwater in the oven.Bake for 10 to 12minutes, oruntilgoldenbrownandrisen.Youcannowservethesoufflésdirectlyfromtheoven.
Alternatively, turn off the oven and leave the soufflés inside for 10 minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandallowthesoufflés tocooldowninit.Nowrunaknife around the insideof the ramekinsand takeout the soufflés.Place,bottom side up, on a baking sheet linedwith parchment paper (you can leavethemthere,covered,forupto4hours).
Whenreadytoserve,preheattheovento325°F.Drizzleabout3tablespoonsofcreamovereachsoufflé.Place thebakingsheet in theovenandwarmupwellfor about 8 minutes. Serve each soufflé with a few slices of peach (not toomany!)drizzledwithalittlejuice.
QuinceandsweetGorgonzolasalad
DuringacookingclassIgaveatLeith’safewyearsagoawomancameuptomeandsaid:“I’vegota tree fullofquinces inmygardenbut Idon’tdoanythingwith them. I am scared of quince.”She’s not alone.The daunting thing aboutquinceisthepreparation.Althoughithastheinnocentlookof,say,anappleora
pear,itisrockhardandrequireslongcookingbeforebecomingedible.
Still,onceyou’vegotridofyourquinceaversionandtriedpreparingityourself,you’llbeamazedbythetransformationitgoesthrough,fromanunyielding,dull,off-white,hardmassintoamagnificentredfruitwithasoft,perfumedflesh.Youcanthenuseitinplentyofcontexts:indessertsorsalads,ortoaccompanyfattyandrichmeatssuchaslamb,gameorpork.
Anyquincesyrupleftaftermakingthissalad(picturedonpages276to277)youcanwarmupandpourovervanillaicecream.
Serves4asastarter
13/4cupswater11/2cupssugar15blackpeppercorns4stripsoforangezest2bayleavesjuiceof1/2lemon3/4cupredwine2mediumquinces1tspgrainymustard2tspcidervinegar4tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinishsaltandblackpepper21/2 cupsmixed leaves (such asmizuna, dandelion,watercress or radicchio di
Treviso)4to5ozsweetGorgonzolascant1/2cupshelledunsaltedpistachios, lightly toasted,somewholeandsome
roughlychoppedPreheat theoven to275°F.Takeamedium-sizedheavypan thatcango in theoven and forwhich you have a tight-fitting lid. Place inside thewater, sugar,peppercorns,orangezest,bayleaves,lemonjuiceandredwine.Setonthestoveand bring to a light simmer.As soon as the sugar dissolves, remove from theheat.
Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel the quinces; keep the skin.With aheavyknife,cutthefruitverticallyintoquartersandremovethecore;keepthistoo. Cut each quarter into two segments. Place the quince segments, plus theskins and cores, in the sugar syrup.Cover the pan and put it into the oven to
cookforabout2hours.Afterthistimethequinceshouldbecompletelytender.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool,uncovered.
Whisk together until smooth the mustard, vinegar, oil, 4 tablespoons of thequincecookingliquid,1/2teaspoonsaltandagoodgrindofblackpepper.
Tofinishthesalad,placesomesaladleavesonfourservingplates.Arrangefourquincesegmentsperportionandsomehand-brokenpiecesofGorgonzolaontheleaves. Try to build the salad up. Place a fewmore leaves on top. Spoon thedressingoverandscatteroverthepistachios.Finishwithalightdrizzleofoliveoil.Alternatively,arrangesimilarlyinalarge,centralmixingbowlandbringtothetable.
Pearcrostini
MydadalwaysquotesanoldTuscansayingthatwasoftenusedinconversationbetweenalandownerandthesupervisoroftheland:Alcontadinononfarsapere
quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere. The beautiful Italian melodyunfortunately doesn’t carry through to the English translation: To the peasantdarenottellhowpearswithcheesetastesowell.
As well as revealing something about the class structure in the Italiancountrysideandabouttheexistentialanxietiesofthelandowners,thephrasealsomakes a much less explosive, but still profound, truth about the sublimecombination of pear and cheese, particularly the Grandes Dames of Italiancheese,Parmesanandpecorino.
HereIgoforgoatcheese,whichisjustasgoodwithpearwhenchosenwell.Itshouldbeanartisanaloneandfullofflavor.Youalsoneedpearsthatarefirm,yet sweet and slightly tart. Super-ripe pears, as much as I love them, willovercookandturnmushy.
Serves4generously
1/4cuppinenuts5tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1garlicclove,peeledsaltandblackpepper4largeslicessourdoughbread,cut11/2inchesthick3semi-ripepears(unpeeled)2tspsugar2tsplemonjuice4to5ozgood-qualitygoatcheesepickedchervilleavestogarnish
Preheattheovento400°F.Placethepinenuts,4tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,thegarlic,apinchofsaltandsomeblackpepperinthebowlofafoodprocessorandwork to a coarse and wet paste. Use a brush to apply to one side of everysourdoughslice.Laythebreadslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor10minutes,oruntillightlycolored.Removeandallowtocoolslightly.
Whilethebreadisintheoven,preparethepears.Standeachpearonachoppingboardanduseasharpknife to trimoffavery thin layerof theskinfromeachside.Thencuteachpearlengthwaysintofourthickslices.Removethecorewith
thetipofaknife.Placetheslicesinabowlwiththeremaining1tablespoonofoil,thesugar,lemonjuiceandapinchofsalt.Tossgently.
Takearidgedgriddlepanandplaceonahighheatuntilpipinghot.Laythepearslicesgentlyinthepanandleaveforaboutaminuteoneachside,justtomakecharmarks.Turncarefullyandthenremovewithtongs,tryingnottobreakthepears.
To assemble the crostini, slice the cheese thinly and arrange over the toasts,alongside thepears.Youwant tobeable toseebothclearly, soallow them tooverlapandrestoneachothertocreateheight.Placethecrostiniintheovenfor3to4minutes,justtowarmupandforthecheesetopartlymelt.Removefromtheoven.
Garnishthecrostiniwiththepickedchervilleaves,drizzlewithoilandsprinklewithfreshlygroundblackpepper.Servehotorwarm.
DatesandTurkishsheep’scheese
Turkishgrocersandsupermarkets- therearemanyof themdottedaroundEastandNortheastLondon-offerabountifulselectionoffreshandflavorfulproducethat you can never find in a normal supermarket. The vegetables are usuallyburstingwithflavor,andyoucanalsogetsomefantasticfreshbreadsandmanydriedproductsfromallovertheBalkans.
IgototheTurkishFoodCenterinDalston,nearOttolenghiinIslington,fortheirwonderful cheeses. There are, literally, dozens of varieties on offer - mostlywhiteyoungcheesesinbrine.Theyareavailablefromthecheesecounter,wheretheyfloatinwonderfullymurkywatersthatkeepthemfreshandmoist,butalsoin jars, plastic wraps, vacuum-packed and even cans. Think feta, halloumi orricotta and then extend the range of flavors and textures tenfold. Some arecreamyandlight,otherssaltyandcrumbly.Someyoucansliceandfry,othersspreadlikecreamcheese.Thebest,Ifind,arethesheep’smilkcheeses.Asktotastefromthecounterorjustgamblewiththepre-packedvarieties.Youcan’tgofarwrong.
Serves4asastarter
11/2tbspwholealmonds(skinon)6largeMedjooldates(5ozintotal)21/2 cups arugula 4 to 5 oz lightly salted Turkish sheep’s cheese (or buffalo
ricottaorbuffalomozzarella),brokenorcutintopiecesafewleavesofdill3/4cupmixedpurpleandgreenbasilleaves,andredchardleaves3tbspoliveoil11/2tsppomegranatemolassessaltandblackpepper
Preheattheovento300°F.Spreadthealmondsinasmallbakingpanandroastthemfor8to10minutes,oruntil theyturnanicebrowninside.Removefromtheovenandleavetocooldown.
Halve thedates lengthwaysandremoveanddiscard thepit.Cuteachhalf intofourtosixlongslices.
Spreadthearugulaoverthebottomofeachservingdish.Ontop,buildupdates,
cheese, dill, basil and red chard, making sure you can clearly see all fourelements.
Mixtogetherwelltheoliveoil,pomegranatemolassesandsomesaltandpepper,anddrizzleoverthesalad.Roughlychopthealmonds,sprinkleontopandserve.
Watermelonandfeta
Thisyoumusteatonthebeach,oratleastoutdoors,onahotday,withthesun’srays unobstructed. It reminds me of hot sweaty nights on the seafront in TelAviv, when everyone is out enjoying beer, loud music and often a heatedconversation.Thesweetjuicinessofthewatermelonandthecrumblysaltinessofthe feta give this salad all its character. So make sure you choose the bestpossibleofboth(forothersaltycheesesyoucanusehere,seeDatesandTurkishSheep’sCheese,page280).
Serves4
10ozfeta41/2 cups large chunks ofwatermelon 3/4 cupbasil leaves 1/2 small red onion,
verythinlysliced(optional)oliveoil
Slice the feta into large but thin pieces, or just break it by hand into roughchunks.
Arrangealltheingredients,excepttheoliveoil,onaplatter,mixingthemupalittle.Drizzleoversomeoilandserveatonce.
Indexaioli,tarragonapricots,ultimatewintercouscousartichokes
globe,withcrushedfavabeansgratinlemonyglobemulti-vegetablepaella
arugulabakedeggswithyogurtandchiledatesandTurkishsheep’scheesefigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettegreencouscous
asparaguschar-grilledfennel,beetsand,withverjusgreenlentils,watercressandmimosapoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisevichyssoise
avocadossalad,quinoa,favabeanandsalsa
Bánhxèobarley
andpomegranatesaladyogurtflatbreadswithmushroomsand
basilfigswithgoatcheese,pomegranatevinaigrette,andoil
beans see also black beans; chickpeas; edamame; fava beans; lima beansbroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladgado-gadogreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragon
meegorengmixed,withmanyspicesandlovageTamara’sratatouille
Béchamelbeets
asparagus,fenneland,withverjusrelish,yogurt,preservedlemonandsalad,orange,blackoliveand
blackbeanspastequesadillas
breadmushroomragoutwithpoachedduckeggpearcrostiniquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladscrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughsoup,chickpea,tomatoandyogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushrooms
broccoliandGorgonzolapiepurplesprouting,withricenoodles
broccolinicrunchypappardelleandsweetsesamesaladBrusselssproutsandtofu
bulgarkısırpilaf,Itamar’s
burgers,favabeanbutter
limespiced
buttermilksauce,eggplantwith
cabbagegado-gadoandkohlrabisalad
Savoy,andParmesanrindsoupstuffedsweetwinterslaw
capersmayonnaisevinaigrette
cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtcarrots
poachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisesalad,spicyMoroccan
cauliflowersaffronsmokyfrittata
celeriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmintparsnipdumplingsinbroth
chardseeSwisschardCheddar
quesadillassmokyfrittata
cheeseseeindividualcheesescherries
cabbageandkohlrabisaladchickpeas
hummuswithfulsautéwithGreekyogurtsoccasoup,tomato,breadandstew,Swisschard,tamarindandultimatewintercouscous
choisummeegorengcilantro
cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtherbpasteokrawithtomato,lemonandsobanoodleswithwakamesoup,tomato,semolinaand
steamedricewithherbsultimatewintercouscous
coconutandcoconutmilkBánhxèopurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlesriceandmangosaladricewithsambalandokrasataysauce
cornpolenta,sweetcouscous
greentomatopartyultimatewinter
crostini,pearcucumbers
burnteggplantwithtahinigado-gadogreengazpachoquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladsaladwithsmashedgarlicandgingersobanoodleswithwakameyogurt,spicedredlentilswith
datesandTurkishsheep’scheeseduckeggs
poached,mushroomragoutwithscrambledsmoky,onsourdough
dumplings,parsnip,inbroth
edamamepastaandfriedzucchinisaladwarmglassnoodlesand
eggplantbroiledvegetablesoupburnt,withtahiniwithbuttermilksaucecroquettes
grilled,lentilswithandlemonrisotto“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilsaucesobanoodleswithmangoandTamara’sratatouilletricolore(andmore)(MORE)veryfulltart-(MORE)
eggsseealsoduckeggsasparagusmimosabaked,withyogurtandchilechardandsaffronomelettesgado-gadogoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachHalloweensouffléspizza,spinach,pecorinoandpoached,cardamomricewithyogurtandroyalpotatosaladshakshukasmokyfrittata
endivecaramelized,withGruyèreJerusalemartichokeswithmanouriandbasiloilnutty,withRoquefort
farroandroastedpeppersaladfavabeans
burgerscrushed,globeartichokeswithandhotyogurtsouphummuswithfulmarinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurtmixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovagemulti-vegetablepaellasalad,avocado,quinoaand
fennelasparagus,beetsand,withverjus
caramelized,withgoatcheesechickpea,tomatoandbreadsoupmulti-vegetablepaellapoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise
fetachar-grilledasparaguseggplantcroquettesfarroandroastedpeppersaladfriedlimabeanswithsorrel,sumacandmushroomlasagnequinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimestuffedonionssweetcornpolentaveryfulltart-(MORE)watermelonand
figswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettefontina,mushroomlasagnefreekehpilaffrittata,smokyfritters,leekful,hummuswith
gado-gadogalettes,Puylentilgarlic
souptart,caramelized
gazpacho,greengoatcheese
caramelizedfennelwithcaramelizedgarlictartfigswithbasil,pomegranatevinaigretteandHalloweensoufflésandlemonraviolipearcrostinisouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachessurprisetatin
GorgonzolaandbroccolipieCastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandsweet,andquincesalad
grapeleaf,herbandyogurtpieGruyère
caramelizedendivewithmushroomlasagne
Halloweensoufflésharissahazelnuts
celeriacandlentilswithmintandgoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachesHalloweensoufflésandzucchinisalad
hummuswithful
JerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil
kashkavalcheese,chardcakeswithsorrelsaucekısırkohlrabi
andcabbagesalad“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil
lasagne,mushroomleeks
asparagusvichyssoisebroccoliandGorgonzolapiefriedfritterspoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise
lemonsandeggplantrisotto
andgoatcheeseraviolilemonyglobeartichokesrelish,preserved
lentilsCastelluccio,withtomatoesandGorgonzolaceleriacand,withhazelnutandmintgalettes,Puygreen,asparagusandwatercresswithgrilledeggplantspicedred,withcucumberyogurt
lettucesaladlimabeans
broiledvegetablesoupfried,withfeta,sorrelandsumac
limesbutterdriedPersian,quinoasaladwithroastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,greenchileand
macadamianuts,sweetwinterslawmangoes
andcoconutricesaladsobanoodleswitheggplantandsweetwinterslaw
ManouriJerusalemartichokeswithbasiloiland“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil
mayonnaise,capermeegoreng“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilMoroccancarrotsalad,spicymozzarella,buffalo
eggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)marinated,andtomatopastaandfriedzucchinisalad
mushroomsBánhxèo
brusselssproutsandtofucrunchypappardelleandherbpolentalasagnemarinated,withwalnutandtahiniyogurtparcel,wildragoutwithpoachedduckeggstuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggioyogurtflatbreadswithbarleyand
noodlesseepastaandnoodles
oils
basilparsley
okracoconutricewithsambalandwithtomato,lemonandcilantro
olivesherb-stuffedtomatoesmulti-vegetablepaellaokrawithtomato,lemonandcilantrosaffroncauliflowersalad,beet,orangeand
omelettes,chardandsaffrononions,stuffedoranges
bittersweetsaladsalad,beet,blackoliveand
paella,multi-vegetablepancakes
Bánhxèogreen,withlimebuttersocca
papayas,sweetwinterslawParmesan
crustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcreamlemonandeggplantrisottomushroomandherbpolentamushroomlasagnerindandSavoycabbagesouproyalpotatosaladstuffedcabbagestuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggiozucchiniandhazelnutsalad
parsleyoilparsnips
dumplingsinbrothandsweetpotatoes,roasted,withcapervinaigretteTamara’sratatouilleultimatewintercouscous
pastaandnoodlesseealsocouscouscrunchypappardelleandfriedzucchinisaladlemonandgoatcheeseraviolimeegorengmushroomlasagnepurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlessaffrontagliatellewithspicedbuttersobanoodleswitheggplantandmangosobanoodleswithwakamestuffedcabbagewarmglassnoodlesandedamame
peaches,vanilla-poached,goatcheesesouffléswithpeanuts
mangoandcoconutricesaladsataysauce
pearcrostinipeas
Bánhxèobroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladgreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonlemonyglobeartichokes
mixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovageroyalpotatosalad
pecorinogreenlentils,asparagusandwatercressmarinatedpeppersaladwithpizza,egg,spinachand
peppersbroiledvegetablesoupeggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)greengazpachoharissaItamar’sbulgarpilafmulti-vegetablepaellapreservedlemonrelishroasted,andfarrosaladsalad,marinated,withpecorinoshakshukaTamara’sratatouilletwo-potatovindalooveryfulltart-(MORE)
piesbroccoliandGorgonzolagrapeleaf,herbandyogurt
pilaffreekehItamar’sbulgar
pistachiosgreencouscousquinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladwatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsalad
pizza,egg,spinachandpecorinopolenta
mushroomandherbsweetcorn
pomegranatesandbarleysaladbittersweetsalad
burnteggplantwithtahinieggplantwithbuttermilksaucekısır239
potatoesasparagusvichyssoiseeggplantcroquettesfavabeanburgersgado-gadoparsnipdumplingsinbrothsalad,royalSavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoupsurpriseTatinTamara’sratatouillevindaloo,two-wildmushroomparcel
puffpastrybroccoliandGorgonzolapiecaramelizedgarlictartPuylentilgalettessurprisetatin
pumpkinHalloweensoufflésultimatewintercouscouswedges,crusted,withsourcream
quesadillasquinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladquinoa
andgrilledsourdoughsaladsalad,avocado,favabeanandsaladwithdriedPersianlime
radicchio
bittersweetsaladlettucesalad
radishesavocado,quinoaandfavabeansalad
lettucesaladratatouille,Tamara’sravioli,lemonandgoatcheeserelish,preservedlemonrice
cardamom,withpoachedeggsandyogurtcoconut,andmangosaladcoconut,withsambalandokrahotyogurtandfavabeansouplemonandeggplantrisottomulti-vegetablepaellaquinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimesteamed,withherbsstuffedcabbagestuffedzucchiniSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstew
ricottabittersweetsaladgratinmushroomlasagnestuffedcabbageveryfulltart-(MORE)
risotto,lemonandeggplantRoquefort,nuttyendivewith
saffron
cauliflowertagliatellewithspicedbutter
saladsavocado,quinoaandfavabeanbarleyandpomegranatebeet,orangeandblackolivebittersweetbroccoliniandsweetsesamecabbageandkohlrabicucumber,withsmashedgarlicandgingerdatesandTurkishsheep’scheese
farroandroastedpepperfigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettegado-gadogreenbean,withmustardseedsandtarragongreenlentils,asparagusandwatercresslettucemangoandcoconutricemarinatedpepper,withpecorinopastaandfriedzucchiniquinceandsweetGorgonzolaquinoa,withdriedPersianlimequinoaandgrilledsourdoughroyalpotatospicyMoroccancarrotsweetwinterslawwatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomzucchiniandhazelnut
salsasambalsataysaucesauces
Béchamelbuttermilkeggplantsalsasataysorrel
scamorza,smokyfrittatashakshukaslaw,sweetwintersobanoodles
witheggplantandmangowithwakame
soccasorrel
friedlimabeanswithfeta,sumacandsauce
soufflésgoatcheese,withvanilla-poachedpeachesHalloween
soupsasparagusvichyssoisebroiledvegetablechickpea,tomatoandbreadgarlicgreengazpachohotyogurtandfavabeanSavoycabbageandParmesanrindtomato,semolinaandcilantro
spinachfavabeanburgersgreengazpachogreenpancakeswithlimebutterpizza,egg,pecorinoandPuylentilgalettes
sproutsBánhxèocabbageandkohlrabisaladgado-gadomeegorengsobanoodleswithwakame
squashseealsozucchiniroastedbutternut,withsweetspices,limeandgreenchileultimatewintercouscous
surpriseTatinsweetpotatoes
cakesquinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimeroastedparsnipsand,withcapervinaigrettetwo-potatovindalooveryfulltart-(MORE)wedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîche
Swisschardcakeswithsorrelsauce
chickpeasautéwithGreekyogurtgreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonandsaffronomelettesstew,chickpea,tamarindand
Taleggio
melting,stuffedportobellowithmushroomandherbpolenta
tamarind,Swisschardandchickpeastewtarragonaiolitarts
caramelizedgarlicsurpriseTatinveryfull-(MORE)
tempura,seasonaltofu
blackpepperBrusselssproutsandgado-gadomeegoreng
tomatoesbroiledvegetablesoupburnteggplantwithtahiniCastellucciolentilswithGorgonzolaandeggplantsauceeggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)herb-stuffedJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloilkısır239lentilswithgrilledeggplantlettucesaladmarinatedbuffalomozzarellaandmixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovagemulti-vegetablepaellaokrawithlemon,cilantroandoven-driedparty
preservedlemonrelishquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladroastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigrettesalsascrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughshakshukasoccasoup,chickpea,breadandsoup,semolina,cilantroandspicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurtstuffedonionssurpriseTatinSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstewTamara’sratatouilletwo-potatovindaloo
tortillas,quesadillasTreviso
beet,orangeandblackolivesaladbittersweetsaladJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil
Turkishsheep’scheeseanddates
vegetablesseealsoindividualvegetables“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil
paella,multi-poachedbaby,withcapermayonnaiseseasonaltempurasoup,broiled
vegetarianism-(MORE)vichyssoise,asparagusvindaloo,two-potato
wakame,sobanoodleswithwalnuts
greengazpachomarinatedmushroomswithtahiniyogurtand
nuttyendivewithRoquefortwatercress
greenlentils,asparagusandmarinatedpeppersaladwithpecorinosalad,pistachio,orangeblossomand
watermelonandfeta
yogurtbakedeggswithchileandcardamomricewithpoachedeggsandchickpeasautéwithcucumber,spicedredlentilswitheggplantwithbuttermilksauceflatbreadswithbarleyandmushroomshot,andfavabeansouppie,grapeleaf,herbandPuylentilgalettesrelish,beet,preservedlemonandroastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchilesorrelsaucesteamedricewithherbstahini,marinatedmushroomswithwalnutand
zucchini
fried,andpastasaladandhazelnutsalad“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilpoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisestuffedTamara’sratatouilleveryfulltart-(MORE)
AcknowledgmentsIwouldliketothankthosewhotookpartinthemakingofthisbook:KarlAllenforhislove,forliftingmeoutofcreativeimpassesandforhiswillingnesstoeatmyexperiments;NoamBarandCorneliaStaeublifortheday-to-daysupportandreal interest in the details; Sarah Lavelle for the patience and brilliant spirit;Felicity Rubinstein for seeing things through in a charming way; JonathanLovekin and David Eldridge for a graceful, collaborative spirit; ClaudineBoulstridge for trying out the recipes, cooking them for the camera andmuchmore;SamiTamimiandHelenGohfor theirfriendshipandconstantstreamofculinary ideas; Lindy Wiffen and Gerry Ure from Ceramica Blue for thegeneroussupplyofdishesfortheshoots.
I would also like to thank Ruth and Michael Ottolenghi, Tirza and DanielFlorentin,AlexMeitlis,ShacharArgov,LingcheeAng,KerenMargalit,YoramEver-Hadani, Alison Quinn, Bob Granleese, Merope Mills, Fiona MacIntyre,CareySmith,EdGriffiths,NormaMacmillan,BasiaMurphy,SaritPacker,EttiMordo,ColleenMurphy,ItamarSrulovichandTamaraMeitlis.
First published in the United States of America in 2011 by Chronicle BooksLLC.FirstpublishedintheUnitedKingdomin2010byEburyPress.
Textcopyright©2010byYotamOttolenghi.Photographscopyright©2010byJonathanLovekin.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable.
ISBN978-1-4521-0970-1
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