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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to the USA ...... 225 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18What’s New ..................... 20If You Like... ..................... 21Month by Month ............. 26Itineraries ........................ 30Road Trips & Scenic Drives ................ 35USA Outdoors ................ 42Travel with Children ....... 49 Regions at a Glance ....... 52

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND THE USA

The USA Today ............... 1100History ............................. 1103The Way of Life .............. 1115Native Americans ........... 1120American Cuisine ........... 1122Wine, Beer & Beyond ..... 1128Arts & Architecture ........ 1132The Music Scene ............ 1142The Land & Environment ................. 1146Wild Things ..................... 1150

The USA Today Memories from the Past The 21st century has certainly been a tumultuous one for the USA. As Americans looked toward the future, many found it di cult to leave thepast behind. This was not surprising since wars in Afghanistan and inIraq, launched a decade prior, continued to simmer on the backburner of the ever-changing news cycle. Add to that the 10-year anniversary of Sep-tember 11, which again brought back memories of that day when thou-sands perished in terrorist attacks. Earlier in 2011, in a subterfuge opera-tion vetted by president Obama, Navy Seals raided Osama Bin Laden’sPakistan hideout, bringing an end to America’s greatest public enemy

Economic Woes Following his sober announcement describing the raid, Obama saw his

on

omes-t ion

omes-t per ,200

oy-%

USAAUSTRALIA CANADA

population per sq mile

≈ 11 people

1849 After the 1848

discovery of gold near Sacramento, an epic

cross-country gold rush sees 60,000

‘forty-niners’ ock to California’s Mother

Lode. San Francisco’s population explodes from 850 to 25,000.

1861-65 American Civil War

erupts between North and South

(delineated by the Mason-Dixon line).

The war’s end on April 9, 1865, is marred by

President Lincoln’s assassination ve

days later.

1 Freed black m

given the vote, South’s segrega

‘Jim Cro(which rema

the 1960s) e edisenfranchise

from every measphere of da

, ganother hurdle, linking Midwestern farmers with East Coast mar

In 1836 a group of Texans fomented a revolution against Mexicomember the Alamo? See p 667 .) Ten years later, the US annexed theRepublic, and when Mexico resisted, the US wage war for it – anthey were at it, took California too. In 1848, Mexico was soun y eand ceded this territory to the US. This completed the USAs contiexpansion.

By a remarkable coincidence, only days after the 1848 treatyMexico was signed, gold was discovered in California. By 1849, surivers of wagon trains were creaking west lled with miners, pioentrepreneurs, immigrants, outlaws and prostitutes, all seeking thetunes. This made for exciting, legendary times, but throughout oa troubling question: as new states joined the USA, would they bestates or free states? The nation’s future depended on the answer.

The Civil War The US Constitution hadn’t ended slavery, but it had given Congrepower to approve (or not) slavery in new states. Public debates ragestantly over the expansion of slavery, particularly since this shapbalance of power between the industrial North and the agrarian So

You can follow the Lewis and Clark

expedition on its extraordinary journey west to the Pacific and

back again online at www.pbs.org/

lewisandclark, which features

historical maps, photo albums and journal excerpts.

JOH

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LK III/LO

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©

Bright Lights, Big Citiesmerica is the birthplace of LA, Las Vegas, hicago, Miami, Boston and New York ity – each a brimming metropolis whose ame alone conjures a million di erent otions of culture, cuisine and entertain-

ment. Look more closely, and the American uilt unfurls in all its surprising variety: he eclectic music scene of Austin, the easy-oing charms of antebellum Savannah, the coconsciousness of free-spirited Portland, he magni cent waterfront of San Francis-o, and the captivating old quarters of New rleans, still rising up from its waterlogged shes.

On the Road Again This is a country of road trips and great open skies, where four million miles of highways lead past red-rock deserts, below towering mountain peaks, and across fertile wheat elds that roll o toward the hori-zon. The sun-bleached hillsides of the Great Plains, the lush rain forests of the Paci c Northwest and the scenic country lanes of New England are a few ne starting points for the great American road trip.

Food-Loving Nation Cuisine is another way of illuminating the American experience. On one evening in the US, thick barbecue ribs and smoked

Welcome to the USA

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

1099GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

England in Fallmajor event, one approaching epic proportions in New England (p 162 ): watching the s change color. You can do it just about anywhere – all you need is one brilliant tree. But ifst people, you’ll want lots of trees. From the Litch eld Hills in Connecticut and the Berk-

Massachusetts to Stowe in northern Vermont, entire hillsides blaze in brilliant crimsons, nd yellows. Covered bridges and white-steeple churches with abundant maple trees put nd New Hampshire in the forefront of leaf-peeping heaven. New Hampshire (p222)

The beer-loving city of Portland pulls out the stops and pours a heady array of handcrafted perfection (www.oregonbrewfest.com; p 1039 ). Featuring 80 di er-ent beers from around the country, there are plenty of choices; and it’s nicely set along the banks of the Wil-lamette River.

�1 Pageant of the Masters

This eight-week arts fest (www.LagunaFestivalofArts.org; p 915 ) brings a touch of the surreal to Laguna Beach, CA. On stage, meticulously costumed actors create liv-ing pictures – imitations of famous works of art – which is accompanied by narration and an orchestra.

�zNewport Folk Festival

Newport, RI, a summer haunt of the well-heeled, hosts a world-class music fest (www.newportfolkfest.com; p 205 ) in late July. Top folk artists from every cor-ner of America and beyond take to the stage at this fun, all-welcoming event.

August

» (above) Thanksgiving Day Parade, New York City. » (below) Mardi Gras, New Orleans.

P MO

NT

H B

Y MO

NT

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I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -900 -2

9 781741 799002

99925

USA Outdoors Best Wildlife Watching Bears in Glacier National Park, MT Elk, bison and gray wolves in Yellowstone National Park, WY Alligators, manatees and sea turtles in the Florida Everglades Whales and dolphins on Monterey Bay, CA

Top Aquatic Activities White-water rafting on the New River, WV Sur ng perfect waves in Oahu, HI Diving and snorkeling o the Florida Keys Kayaking pristine Penobscot Bay, ME

Best Multiday Adventures Hiking the Appalachian Trail Mountain-biking Kokopelli’s Trail, UT Climbing 13,770ft Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park, WYCanoeing portaging and camping in the

Towering redwoods, ahills, chiseled peaks, ludramatic coastline of uUSA has no shortage offor a bit of outdoor advwe’ve described just oIn the other 49 lie an aof natural wonders, froand lush rainforests to tains and vast stretchesof people but full of end

No matter your weakkayaking, rafting, sur nrock climbing – you’ll to commune with the if you’re thinking of trthe USA is a great plachone your craft.

For outdoor activitielent infrastructure and for planning an advenentails trekking some (lachian Trail, mountaincarving up the legendin the Rockies; for som

usa-7-cover.indd 2usa-7-cover.indd 2 2/12/2011 3:31:02 PM2/12/2011 3:31:02 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Regis St Louis Amy C Balfour, Michael Benanav, Andrew Bender, Glenda Bendure, Sara Benson,

Alison Bing, Jeff Campbell, Nate Cavalieri, Sarah Chandler, Jim DuFresne, Lisa Dunford, Ned Friary, Bridget Gleeson, Michael Grosberg, Beth Kohn, Mariella Krause, Emily

Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, John A Vlahides, Karla Zimmerman

p244& the Capital Region

Washington, DC

p58PennsylvaniaNew Jersey &

New York,

p162England

New

p651Texas

p1079Hawaii

p500Great Lakes

p598Great Plains

p703Mountains

Rockyp1001Northwest

Pacific

p785Southwest

p882California

p320The South

p440Florida

p1061Alaska

AK

HI

MIWIMN

IA

VA

DE

NY

NJ

WV

MACT RI

MD

VTNH

ME

PA

OHINIL

MO

AR

NC

SC

FL

GA

KY

TN

ALMS

LATX

OK

KS

NE

SD

ND

WY

MT

ID

WA

OR

CO

UT

NMAZ

NVCA

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 1154Transportation ............... 1168Index ................................ 1187Map Legend .................... 1204

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Accommodationshe listings in the accom-odations sections of this

debook are in order of erence. For all but the pest places and the

t seasons, reserva-advised. In high-

rist hot spots, ok up months

al, many s on their

chains

Bed Online (wBedandBrea(www.bedandbreaBnB Finder (www.bcom)Pamela Lanier’s Bed & Breakfast Inns (www.lanierbb.com)Select Registry (www.selectregistry.com)

Hostels Hostels are mainly found in urban areas, in the northeast, the Paci c Northwest, Cali-fornia and the Southwest.

Hostelling International USA (HI-USA; %301-495-1240; www.hiusa.org; annual member-ship adult/child/senior $28/free/$18) runs more than 50 hostels in the US. Most have gender-segregated dorms, a few private rooms, shared baths and a communal kitchen. Overnight fees fordorm beds range from $to $45. HI-USA membeentitled to small discReservations are a(you can book oadvised durinwhen thernight

Directory A-Z

PAGE

56

PAGE

1153

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA . . . . 58NEW YORK CITY . . . . . . . . . .62NEW YORK STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Long Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .114NEW JERSEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Jersey Shore . . . . . . . . . . . 130PENNSYLVANIA . . . . . . . . . 134Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . 134Pittsburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

NEW ENGLAND . . . . .162MASSACHUSETTS . . . . . . . 167Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195RHODE ISLAND . . . . . . . . .201Providence . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203CONNECTICUT . . . . . . . . . .207Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210VERMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Burlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219NEW HAMPSHIRE . . . . . . .222Portsmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 224MAINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Acadia National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Bar Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

WASHINGTON, DC & THE CAPITAL REGION . . . . . . . . . . 244WASHINGTON, DC . . . . . . .248MARYLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . .270Baltimore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281DELAWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . .287VIRGINIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Fredericksburg . . . . . . . . . 295Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296WEST VIRGINIA . . . . . . . . . . 315

THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 320NORTH CAROLINA . . . . . . .324Charlotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333SOUTH CAROLINA . . . . . . 339Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350TENNESSEE . . . . . . . . . . . 350Memphis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359KENTUCKY . . . . . . . . . . . . .370Louisville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371GEORGIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391ALABAMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . . 397MISSISSIPPI . . . . . . . . . . . 402Mississippi Delta . . . . . . . 403Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407LOUISIANA . . . . . . . . . . . . 409New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . 410

ARKANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Little Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

FLORIDA . . . . . . . . . 440SOUTH FLORIDA . . . . . . . 445Miami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445Fort Lauderdale . . . . . . . . 459The Everglades . . . . . . . . . 463ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . .474Daytona Beach . . . . . . . . . 476Jacksonville . . . . . . . . . . . . 480WEST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . .481Tampa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . 484CENTRAL FLORIDA . . . . . 489Orlando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489Walt Disney World Resort .493FLORIDA PANHANDLE . . 495

GREAT LAKES . . . . . 500ILLINOIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505INDIANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535Indianapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 536OHIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .542Cleveland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Amish Country . . . . . . . . . 548Columbus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549Cincinnati . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551MICHIGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555Detroit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555WISCONSIN . . . . . . . . . . . .572Milwaukee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572MINNESOTA . . . . . . . . . . . .582

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Minneapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 582St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590

GREAT PLAINS . . . . 598MISSOURI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602St Louis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603Kansas City . . . . . . . . . . . . 612IOWA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616Des Moines . . . . . . . . . . . . 617NORTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . 620SOUTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . .624NEBRASKA . . . . . . . . . . . . 634Omaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634KANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639Wichita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639OKLAHOMA . . . . . . . . . . . . 644Oklahoma City . . . . . . . . . 644

TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . .651SOUTH-CENTRAL TEXAS . . 653Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . 666Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 672SOUTHERN GULF COAST 680DALLAS-FORT WORTH . . 682WEST TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . 694Big Bend National Park . . 694Guadalupe Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 702

ROCKY MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 703COLORADO . . . . . . . . . . . . .709Denver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 709

WYOMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741Cheyenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742Yellowstone National Park . . . . . . . . . . 744Grand Teton National Park . . . . . . . . . . 750MONTANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .754Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754Missoula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 758Glacier National Park . . . 761IDAHO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .763Boise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 763

SOUTHWEST . . . . . . .785NEVADA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790Las Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790ARIZONA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 808Phoenix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 818Grand Canyon National Park . . . . . . . . . . 823Tucson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832UTAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .837Salt Lake City . . . . . . . . . . 838NEW MEXICO . . . . . . . . . . .857Albuquerque . . . . . . . . . . . 858Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 863Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 871

CALIFORNIA . . . . . . 882LOS ANGELES . . . . . . . . . . .887SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 911Disneyland & Anaheim . . .911San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . 916

PALM SPRINGS & THE DESERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .927Palm Springs . . . . . . . . . . . 928Joshua Tree National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .930Death Valley National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 933Big Sur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 940SAN FRANCISCO & THE BAY AREA . . . . . . . . . .947San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . 947NORTHERN CALIFORNIA . .975Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . 975Sacramento . . . . . . . . . . . . 984SIERRA NEVADA . . . . . . . . 989Yosemite National Park . . 989Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks . . . . . . . . . 994Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . 998

PACIFIC NORTHWEST . . . . . .1001WASHINGTON . . . . . . . . . .1007Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1007OREGON . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1034Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1034

ALASKA . . . . . . . . . .1061SOUTHEAST ALASKA . . 1064ANCHORAGE. . . . . . . . . . . 1074

HAWAII . . . . . . . . . . .1079OʻAHU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1082HAWAIʻI THE BIG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1087MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1091KAUAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1095

O C E A NP A C I F I C

Colorado R

iver

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Rio

dG

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iMviri Rssou er

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Utah

Arizona

California

Nevada

IdahoOregon

Washington

Texas

Nebraska

ColoradoKansas

Wyoming

Montana

NorthDakota

SouthDakota

NewMexico

Calgary

Flagstaff

TijuanaSan Diego

MEXICALITucson

SACRAMENTO

San JoseSan Francisco

Reno

SALEMPortland

BOISE

Spokane

Missoula

Vancouver

SeattleOLYMPIA

VICTORIA

SANTA FE

Antonio

El PasoCiudadJuárez

Albuquerque

San

DENVER

CHEYENNE

HELENA

PIERRE

BISMARCK

REGINA

ColoradoSprings

CARSONCITY

RapidCity

Los Angeles

Boulder

Bozeman

LasVegas

FortWorth

SALT LAKECITY

120ºW 110ºW 100ºW

100ºW

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30ºN

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Great SaltLake

ManitobaLake

MEXICO

CANADA

ELEVATION

9000ft

12,000ft

16,000ft

5000ft

2000ft

1000ft

500ft

Sea Level

-500ft

TijuDie

Seattle

Yosemite National Park

San Francisco

Los Angeles

Grand Canyon

Trend-setting coffee lover nearlush wilderness (p1007)

Waterfalls, granite peaks anddreamlike landscapes (p989)

Hilly grand dame with abohemian soul (p947)

Multicultural 'hoods, beachesand endless amusement (p887)

Vast, wondrous andutterly unforgettable (p823)

USA

O C E A N

aSeihc A R C T I C

Chu

k

A l a s k aG u l f o f

S e aB e r i n g

AlaskaFairbanks

Anchorage

JUNEAU

70ºN

150ºW170ºW 160ºW 140ºW

140ºW150ºW

60ºN

170ºW

IslandKodiak

IslandSt Lawrence

IslandNunivak

IslandsAleutian

PeninsulaSeward

R U S S I A

C A

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2

1

23

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300 miles00 500 km

P A C I F I CO C E A N

HawaiiHONOLULU

KonaKailua-

Hilo

20ºN

160ºW

Moloka‘iMaui

Kaho‘olaweLana‘i

O‘ahuNi‘ihauKaua‘i

Hawai‘i

100 miles150 km

00

500 km300 miles0

0

› USA

Beaches, volcanoes andtropical island allure (p1079)

Creative and indie-lovingmusic capital (p656)

Cajun cookin', hot jazz andMardi Gras (p410)

Cuban food, art deco andsultry beaches (p445)

Stunning architecture andlakefront festivals (p505)

Drive among the scenicAppalachian Mountains (p39)

Iconic monuments onAmerica's front lawn (p249)

Follow the cobblestonesinto history (p167)Famed metropolis and

cultural capital (p62)

Hawaii

Austin

New Orleans

Miami

Chicago

Blue Ridge Parkway

National Mall

BostonNew York

A T L A N T I CO C E A N

G u l f o fM e x i c o

S

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Florida

Alabama

Louisiana

Mississippi Georgia

Iowa

Minnesota

Oklahoma

Kentucky

Tennessee

Missouri

Arkansas

Illinois Indiana

CarolinaSouth

WV

Ohio

Virginia

Wisconsin

Pennsylvania

New York

DE

MD

NJ

RICT

VTMA

NH

Maine

Michigan

NorthCarolina

HARTFORD

MONTPELIER

ALBANY

Wilmington

RALEIGH

RICHMOND

ANNAPOLIS

Charleston

HAVANA

COLUMBIATulsa

HoustonAUSTIN

Dallas

ROUGEBATON

NewOrleans

JACKSON

Birmingham

Memphis

Tampa

TALLAHASSEE

Orlando

JacksonvilleSt Augustine

MONTGOMERY

ATLANTA

Savannah

Augusta

Wichita

LINCOLN

TOPEKA

Omaha

Minneapolis

FRANKFORT

NASHVILLE

St Louis

SPRINGFIELD

INDIANAPOLIS

Charlotte

Greenville

Cincinnati

CHARLESTON

PittsburghCOLUMBUS

Baltimore

MADISON

ST PAUL

LANSING

ChicagoMilwaukee

Detroit

Toledo

ClevelandHARRISBURG

OTTAWA

TORONTO

Montréal

Miami NASSAU

DOVER

TRENTON

New YorkPhiladelphia

AUGUSTA

BOSTONPROVIDENCE

CONCORD

WINNIPEGQUÉBEC

CorpusChristi

WASHINGTON, DC

KansasCity

DESMOINES

JEFFERSONCITY

OKLAHOMACITY

LITTLEROCK

ThunderBay

GreenBay

Burlington

FortLauderdale

KeyWest

20ºN

90ºW 70ºW

90ºW

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Top Experiences Top Experiences ›

Karla Zimmerman Great Lakes As a life-long Midwesterner, Karla is well-versed in the region’s beaches, ballparks, breweries and pie shops. When she’s not home in Chicago watching the Cubs, er, writing for newspapers, books and magazines, she’s out exploring. For this gig, she curled in Minnesota, caught a wave in Michigan, heard the curds squeak in Wisconsin and drank an embarrassing number of milk-shakes in Ohio. Karla has written for several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering

the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.Read more about Karla at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Bradley Mayhew Rocky Mountains An expat Brit, Bradley currently calls southeastern Montana home. Half a lifetime of travels through Central Asia, Tibet and Mongolia has made him feel quite at home in Big Sky country. He is the coordinating author of a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Central Asia and Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and he hikes nearby Yellowstone Park and the Beartooth Mountains every chance he gets. See what he’s up to at www.

bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Carolyn McCarthy Rocky Mountains Carolyn became enamored of the Rockies as an undergradu-ate at Colorado College. She studied, skied and hiked her way through the region, even working as a boot fi tter. In the last seven years she has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles and has written for National Geographic, Outside, Lonely Planet Magazine and other publications. You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Kevin Raub The South Though Indiana born, Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. The rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle took its toll, so he needed an extended vaca-tion and took up travel writing while ditching the States for Brazil. This home-coming, covering Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana, only reaffi rmed a bumper sticker he has contemplated for years: Hoosier by Birth,

Southern by the Grace of God! This is Kevin’s 13th Lonely Planet guide. You can fi nd him at www.kevinraub.net.

Brendan Sainsbury Rocky Mountains, Pacifi c Northwest UK-born Brendan lives in White Rock, Can-ada within baseball-pitching distance (almost) of the USA and the Pacifi c North-west. He has been researching the area for Lonely Planet since 2007 and his forays across the border have included fi ne-dining in the San Juan Islands, hitch-hiking in western Montana and running 100 miles unassisted across the Cascade

Mountains in a so-called endurance race. Brendan is also a co-author of Lonely Planet’s Washing-ton, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest guidebook.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers California Andrea fell in love with California – its pizzazz, people and sunshine – almost the instant she landed in the Golden State. She grew up in Germany, lived in London and traveled the world before getting a degree from UCLA and embark-ing on a career in travel writing. Andrea has written or contributed to some 60 Lonely Planet books, including several editions of this one as well as California,

Los Angeles and Southern California.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Great Plains Ryan fi rst drove across the Great Plains with his family in the 1960s. Among his treasured memories are a pair of Wild West six-shooters he got at Wall Drugs in South Dakota and which he still has (in a box someplace not under his pillow). Through the years he never passes up a chance to wander the back-roads of America’s heartland fi nding beauty and intrigue where you least expect

it. Find more at www.ryanverberkmoes.com.

John A Vlahides California John cohosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d’Or, the international union of the world’s elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San

Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see johnvlahides.com and twitter.com.johnvlahides.

Read more about Brendan at:lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

Read more about Ryan at:lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

Read more about John at:lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides

Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure New England Ned and Glenda hail from Cape Cod, their home since the 1980s. Ocean swims, long bike rides and road trips around New England are favorite pastimes. The highlight of their latest trip was a climb to the summit of Acadia Mountain in Acadia National Park, where the jaw-dropping views reminded them just how wildly diverse New England is. They’ve written extensively on the region and are co-authors of Lonely Planet’s New England and Discover USA’s Best National Parks guides.

Bridget Gleeson California A journalist who divides her time between California and Argentina, Bridget has written about food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Budget Travel, Afar, Delta Sky, Jetsetter, Continental, Tablet Hotels and Mr & Mrs Smith. Follow her travels at www.bridgetgleeson.com.

Michael Grosberg New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Growing up Michael spent family holidays crisscrossing NY, NJ and PA and with his large New York City family and grew to know their neighborhoods as if they were his own. After several long overseas trips and many careers, some abroad, Michael returned to New York City for graduate school and taught literature in colleges. He’s lived in three of the fi ve boroughs and takes every opportunity to hit the road and explore these diverse states.

Beth Kohn California A lucky long-time resident of San Francisco, Beth loves to be playing outside or splashing in big puddles of water. For this guide, she hiked and biked Bay Area byways, lugged a bear canister along the John Muir Trail and selfl essly soaked in hot springs – for research purposes, of course. An author of Lonely Planet’s Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks and California guides, you can see more of her work at www.bethkohn.com.

Mariella Krause Texas Although she currently lives in California, Mariella will always consider Tex-as home. She lived in Austin for 15 years and still sprinkles her language with Tex-anisms whenever possible, much to the amusement of those who don’t consider ‘ya’ll’ a proper pronoun. Fresh off last year’s Texas guide, Mariella is as proud as a kitten in a pickup to once again share her favorite places in the Lone Star state.

Emily Matchar The South A native Tarheel, Emily lives and works in Chapel Hill, North Carolina (when she’s not bopping around the globe, that is). Though she doesn’t have a Southern accent, she does know how to smoke a hog, hotwire a pickup truck and bake a mean coconut cake. She writes about culture, food and travel for a variety of national magazines and newspapers, and has contributed to a dozen Lonely Planet guides.

Read more about Bridget at:lonelyplanet.com/members/bridgetgleeson

Read more about Emily at:lonelyplanet.com/members/emilymatchar

Sara Benson USA’s National Parks, California, Hawaii After graduating from college in Chi-cago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, in between stints living in Asia and Hawaii and working as a national park ranger. The author of 50 travel and nonfi ction books, Sara dodged avalanches in Lake Tahoe and rock-slides along Big Sur’s splendid coast while writing this guide. Follow her adven-

tures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/indie_traveler.

Alison Bing California After 18 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything you’re sup-posed to do in the city and some things you’re not, including falling in love on the Haight St bus and eating a Mission burrito in one sitting. Alison holds degrees in art history and international relations – respectable diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for newspapers, magazines, TV, radio and books, including Lonely Planet’s USA Trips, California,

San Francisco and San Francisco Encounter guides.

Jeff Campbell Florida Jeff is the great-grandson of Florida pioneers who cleared the pines, mined the phosphate, and paved the roads in central Florida. As a child, he re-members searching for alligators in the local lake, and riding Space Mountain the year it opened. As an adult, he’s been a travel writer for Lonely Planet since 2000. He was the coordinating author of Florida, as well as three editions of USA, among other US titles.

Nate Cavalieri California A native of central Michigan, Nate lives in Northern California and has crisscrossed the region’s back roads by bicycle, bus and rental car on a tireless search for the biggest trees, the best camping and the hoppiest pints of craft beer. In addition to authoring guides on California and Latin America for Lonely Planet, he writes about jazz and pop music and is the jazz editor at Rhapsody Music Service. Photos from his travels in Northern California and other writing

can be found at www.natecavalieri.com.

Sarah Chandler Southwest Long enamored of Sin City’s gritty enchantments, Sarah jumped at the chance to sharpen her blackjack skills while delving into the atomic and alien mysteries of rural Nevada. In Vegas, Sarah learned the secret art of bypass-ing velvet ropes, bounced from buff ets to pool parties, and explored the seedy vintage glamour of downtown. Sarah is currently based between the US and Amsterdam, where she works as a writer, actress, and lecturer at Amsterdam

University College. When in doubt, she always doubles down.

Jim DuFresne Alaska Jim has lived, worked and wandered across Alaska and even cashed a Permanent Fund Dividend check. As the sports and outdoors editor of the Juneau Empire, he was the fi rst Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award from Associated Press. As a guide for Alaska Discovery he has witness Hubbard Glacier shed icebergs the size of pickup trucks off its 8-mile-wide face. Jim now lives in Michigan writing for www.MichiganTrailMaps.com and regularly returns

to the Far North to update Lonely Planet’s Alaska.

Lisa Dunford Southwest As one of the possibly thousands of great, great grand-daughters of Brigham Young, ancestry fi rst drew Lisa to Utah. But it’s the incredible red rocks that keep her coming back. Driving the remote backroads outside Bluff , she was reminded of how here the earth seems at its most elemental. Before becoming a freelance author 10 years ago, Lisa was a newspaper editor and writer in South Texas. Lisa co-authored Lonely Planet’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.

Read more about Sara at:lonelyplanet.com/members/Sara_Benson

Read more about Nate at:lonelyplanet.com/members/natecavalieri

Read more about Sarah at:lonelyplanet.com/members/sarahchandler

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Regis St Louis Coordinating Author, Washington, DC & the Capital Region A Hoosier by birth, Regis grew up in a sleepy riverside town where he dreamed of big-city intrigue. In 2001, he settled in New York, which had all that and more. He has also lived in San Francisco and Los Angeles and has crossed the country by train, bus and car, while visiting remote corners of America. Favorite memories from his most recent trip include chasing the bluegrass scene across southern Virginia, chant-

ing with Krishna devotees in West Virginia and crab feasting all over Maryland. Regis has contrib-uted to more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including Washington, DC and NYC.

Amy C Balfour Southwest Amy has hiked, biked, skied and gambled her way across the South-west, fi nding herself returning again and again to Flagstaff , Monument Valley and, always, the Grand Canyon. On this trip she fell hard for Bisbee and Chir-icahua National Monument. When she’s not daydreaming about red rocks and green chile hamburgers, she’s writing about food, travel and the outdoors. Amy has authored or co-authored 11 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Los

Angeles Encounter, California, Hawaii and Arizona.

Michael Benanav Southwest Michael came to New Mexico in 1992 and quickly fell under its spell; soon after, he moved to a rural village in the Sangre de Cristo foothills, where he still lives. A veteran international traveler, he can’t imagine a better place to come home to after a trip. Aside from his work for Lonely Planet, he’s authored two nonfi ction books and writes and photographs for magazines and newspapers.

His website is www.michaelbenanav.com.

Andrew Bender California Andrew is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he’s made it his own. Two decades ago, this native New Englander packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in fi lm production, and even-tually realized that the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, over two dozen Lonely Planet titles, and on his blog, www.wheres-andy-now.com. Current obsessions: discov-

ering LA’s next great ethnic enclave, and winter sunsets over the bike path in Santa Monica.

Read more about Regis at:lonelyplanet.com/members/regisstlouis

Read more about Amy at: lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – Mar 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 900 2© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Itiner-aries

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Two to Three WeeksEast Coasting

The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at her most urbane. Spend four days exploring the metropolis, visiting memorable people-watching hoods such as the West and East Villages, the Lower East Side, Soho, Nolita and the Upper West Side, with a museum hop down the Upper East Side. Have a

ramble in Central Park, stroll the High Line and take a detour to Brooklyn. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches and enticing charms of the Hamptons on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston, for two days visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub-hopping in Cambridge. Strike out for Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes, forests and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Back in Boston, hire a car and take a three-day jaunt taking in New England’s back roads, covered bridges, picturesque towns and beautiful scenery, staying at heritage B&Bs en route. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington, Vermont; and Portsmouth, New Hampshire. If time allows, head all the way up to Maine for lobster feasts amid beautifully rugged coastline.

Whether you’ve got six days or Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.travelers.

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Three WeeksNorthern Expedition

For a diff erent take on the transcontinental journey, plan a route through the north. From New York City, head west toward Harrisburg via Philadelphia, but stop fi rst to explore the idyllic backroads of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Next is Pitts-burg, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and green spaces, cutting-edge mu-

seums and lively neighborhoods. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time on a drive through old-fashioned Amish Country. Big-hearted Chicago – aka Second City, the Windy City – is the Midwest’s greatest city. Stroll or bike the lakefront, marvel at famous artwork and grand architecture, and take a culinary journey amid Chicago’s celebrated res-taurant scene. Head north to Madison, a youthful green-loving university town.

Detour north to the land of 10,000 lakes (aka Minnesota) for a stop in friendly, arty Min-neapolis, followed by a visit to its quieter historic twin, St Paul, across the river.

Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace) and the fl at, fl at South Dakota plains. Hit the brakes for the Badlands National Park and plunge into the Wild West. In the Black Hills, contemplate the nation’s complex history at the massive monuments of Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Watch mythic gunfi ghts in Deadwood and learn about Native American culture at Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.

Halfway across Wyoming, cruise into Cody to catch a summer rodeo. Then take in the wonders of Yellowstone National Park, home to geysers, alpine lakes and waterfalls, with magnifi cent wildlife watching. Next, hike past jewel-like lakes and soaring peaks in Grand Teton National Park. Through rural Montana, the outdoorsy towns of Bozeman and Missoula make fun stops. Hit the boutique- and cafe scene, enjoy a fabulous meal, then head off again into the alpine beauty of Glacier National Park followed by a trek through the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex.

After a few days out in the wild, surprising Spokane is a great place to recharge, with a pleasant riverfront and historic district sprinkled with enticing eating and drinking spots. For more cosmopolitan fl avor, keep heading west to Seattle, a forward-thinking, eco-mindedcity with cafe culture, abundant nightlife and speedy island escapes on Puget Sound. If you still have time, the region has some great places to explore, including Mt Rainier, Olympic National Park, and the San Juan Islands.

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» (above) Vineyard, Napa Valley (p975) » (left) General store in a small Texan town

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One MonthCoast to Coast

The Great American road trip: It’s been mythologized hundreds of ways. Now live the dream, driving the length and breadth of the USA. Start in New York City (but hire a car in cheaper New Jersey) and hit the road. First stop: Philadelphia, a historic city with a burgeoning food, art and music scene. Continue on to Washington, DC.

The nation’s capital has a dizzying array of sights, plus great dining (crab feasts, global fare) and revelry, after the museums close. Continue south through Virginia, taking a detour to visit the fantastic historic settlement of colonial Williamsburg. Stick to the coast as you drive south, visiting Cape Hatteras with its pristine dunes, marshes and woodlands. Catch the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island where the wild ponies run. Further down, take in the antebellum allure of Charleston and Savannah, two of the south’s most captivating des-tinations. Next it’s on to jazz-loving New Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin’ hot funk brass bands, and succulent Cajun and Creole food.

The big open skies of Texas are next. Hit the beach at Galveston Island outside Hous-ton. Follow the Mission Trail and stroll the tree-lined riverwalk in thriving San Antonio, then revel in the great music and drinking scene in Austin. Afterwards, eat your way through barbecue-loving Hill Country, then walk it off in jaw-dropping Big Bend National Park. Head north to New Mexico, following the Turquoise Trail up to artsy Santa Fe and far-out Taos. Roll west to red-rock Sedona, one of Arizona’s loveliest and – to Native Ameri-can tribes – most sacred places. The awe-inspiring Grand Canyon is next. Stay in the area to maximize time near this great wonder. Try your luck amid the bright lights of (luck be a lady tonight?) Las Vegas, then skirt the vast desert wilderness of Mojave National Pre-serve on your ride into California. From there, it’s onto the lush towering forests of majestic Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks in the Sierra Nevada, followed by hiking and wildlife watching in Yosemite, California’s most revered national park. The last stop is in hilly San Francisco, an enchanting city spread between ocean and bay with beautiful vis-tas, world-class dining and bohemian-loving nightlife. If there’s time, tack on a grand fi nale drinking in the vineyards and gourmet produce of Napa Valley.

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Three WeeksThe Left Coast

Geographically and politically, the West Coast couldn’t be further from Washington, DC. This is a trip for those who lean left, and who like their nature ancient and wild, and their horizons and beaches wide-open.

Start in Seattle, taking in sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront scenery. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, with superb hiking and relaxing inns nestled beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue on to the cutting-edge city of Port-land, known for its sprawling parks, environmentally minded residents and progressive ur-banism – plus food carts, coff eehouse culture and great nightlife to boot. After your culture fi x, jump into nature’s bounty by driving east along the Columbia River Gorge. Then turn south and make for Mt Hood for winter skiing and summer hiking. Further adventures await in the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and take a stroll through the magnifi cent old-growth forests in Redwood National & State Parks.

Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, then catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino whose scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make for a requisite wander.

Make your way inland to the Napa & Sonoma Valleys for a wash-up and wine tasting amid rolling vineyards. Then continue south to the romantically hilly, ever free-spirited San Francisco.

Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-fl avored Big Sur, where you can get scruff y again. In no time you’ll reach the sur-real Hearst Castle and laid-back, collegiate San Luis Obispo.

Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara, then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead, indulge your fantasies of Hollywood then cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods – from Santa Monica to Los Feliz, Beverly Hills to Long Beach. After wracking up a few sins in the city of Angels, move on down to picture-perfect San Diego, visiting the historic Mission, the world-famous zoo, and of course those enticing beaches.

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