phospholipid- based emulsifiers for skin...

Phospholipid-basedemulsifiers for skin care

Natural ingredients

Active formulas

High tolerance

EMULMETIK™BIOPHILIC™AMISOL™ SOFTHELIOFEEL™

P h o s p h o l i p i d s a s e m u l s i f i e r s

Polar lipids and above all phospholipids areessential constituents of the cellular membraneof all living organisms. Organized in bi-layers, theyform a selective and protective barrier whichregulates cell life.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics extracts phospholipidsfrom various vegetable sources to provide the cosmetic industry withnatural and biocompatible emulsifying molecules to formulate O/Wand W/O emulsions.

Phospholipids (including phosphatidylcholine and others) are longmolecules designed by nature with a hydrophilic head and two lipophilictails. This amphiphilic character is responsible for their emulsifyingproperties. When used as co-emulsifiers in combination with otheremulsifiers or molecules with high HLB, their emulsifying properties areenhanced. Their structure gives a unique sensorial profile and a perfecttolerance.

When used in make-up, the pigment binds to the polar group and is thusdispersed in the oil phase, while avoiding pigment aggregation. Thisproperty is accompanied by an interesting decrease in viscosity forexample during the pouring of lipstick.

Under specific conditions, they can also formliposomes. Liposomes are mainly used asdelivery vectors to encapsulate both water-solubleand oil-soluble compounds in a skin-compatiblestructure, which facilitates the penetration andhelps active agents to reach selected targets.

w i t h a c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s

Phospholipids also have specific biological activities. As naturalcomponents of cell membranes, they have a high affinity to skin andtherefore penetrate skin easily. They are important source of essentialfatty acids to keep the skin supple. They form a film on the skin’s surfacewhich continuously releases active ingredients and reduces the TEWLwhile increasing the hydration of stratum corneum.

EMULMETIK™ 100 220 300 320 900 930 950

DESCRIPTION Liquidlecithin

Hydrogenatedlecithin

Phospholipidcomplex

Hydrogenatedphospholipid

complex

PC*concentrate

PC*isolate

HydrogenatedPC*

isolate

ORIGIN Soya Sunflower Soya Soya Soya Soya Soya

PHOSPHOLIPIDSAND GLYCOLIPIDS

60% 60% 97% 97% 97% 97% 97%

* PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE 12% 15% 23% 23% 50% 95% 97%

TECHNICALFUNCTION

Co-emulsifier Co-emulsifier Co-emulsifier

Co-emulsifierStabilizing

agentWetting agent

LiposomeprecursorEmulsifier

Liposomeprecursor

LiposomeprecursorThickening

agent

ORGANIC STATUS Consult us

EMULMETIK™are natural lecithinsand phospholipidswith variousphosphatidylcholinecontents.Used as co-emulsifiers,wetting agentsor active ingredients,they improve alltypes of formulationwith a uniquesensorial and naturalapproach.

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Cross section of a liposome

PHOSPHOLIPIDS COMBINE TECHNOLOGICAL FUNCTION AND SKIN TREATING PROPERTIES

P h o s p h o l i p i d - b a s e d e m u l s i f i e r s

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has optimized the emulsifying properties of phospholipids by combining themwith other natural compounds with higher HLB values.Three generations of phospholipid-based emulsifiers have been developed - BIOPHILIC™, AMISOL™ SOFT and HELIOFEEL™- to offer various choices of formulations with unique sensorial characteristics.

S e n s o r y p r o f i l e

The sensory profiles of basic creams containing4% of each emulsifier were evaluated by anexpert panel. All phospholipid-based emulsifiersgive some similar results which can be definedas the « Phospholipid Touch » :

• Cool

• Slippery

• Non-tacky

• Soft

However, each emulsifier has its own individualbenefits and is recommended for differentapplications based on the desired texture.

The biological benefits from phospholipids provide active properties to those emulsifiers and allow claimsof active formulas with moisturizing, restructuring and protective properties. The formation of a film on thesurface of the skin prevents the water loss and acts as a delivery system for a long-lasting effect.The base of the formulation is therefore also an entire active part of the formulation.

N a t u r a l a n d s k i n b i o c o m p a t i b l e

The ingredients in BIOPHILIC™, AMISOL™ SOFT and HELIOFEEL™ have been selected with particular care.They are 100% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and biocompatibility with the skin for aperfect safe aspect.

Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market (non ionic glucolipidic and ethoxylatedsystems), they are well tolerated and can be used for all kind of products, particularly for the most delicateapplications (sensitive skin products, baby care and cleansers).

In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay onhuman normal epidermal keratinocytes.Tested dose: 0.008%

Opacity

White (color)

Brightness

Fluidity

Piking

Slipping

Coolness

Whitening (application)

Spreadability

Greasiness

Penetration

Tacking

Softness

Residue

0

2

4

6

8

10

BIOPHILIC HTM

HELIOFEELTM

AMISOLTM SOFT

100

80

60

40

20

0HELIOFEEL™AMISOL™ SOFTBIOPHILIC™ H Non ionic glucolipidic

emulsifierEthoxylated

system

Cel

lula

r vi

abili

ty (%

) >100% >100% >100%

70%

20%

-30%

-80%

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BIOPHILIC™, AMISOL™ SOFT, HELIOFEEL™ :THE EMULSIFIERS WHICH TAKE CARE OF YOUR SKIN

BIOPHILIC™ is a natural lamellarO/W system basedon the emulsifyingproperties ofphospholipidscombined with other vegetablelipids.

BIOPHILIC™ FORMS LAMELLAR O/W EMULSIONS ABLE TO RESTORE THE SKIN BARRIER

T h e p h o s p h o l i p i d t o u c hL a m e l l a r n e t w o r k

When combined with other fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the emulsifyingproperties of phospholipids are improved. They first form monolayersaround oil droplets, and progressively, a bilayer network is formed in theaqueous phase to create a lamellar O/W emulsion.

The rigid lamellar network formed with BIOPHILIC™ yields very stablecreams capable of carrying up to 40% by weight of oil: oil-drops arestabilized in the layers of the emulsion. It is also able to entrap active ingredients which are continuouslyreleased as the cream penetrates the skin.

T h e “ S e c o n d S k i n ”c o n c e p t

The lamellar emulsion mimics the lipidstructure of the stratum corneum for aperfect affinity. It acts as a “second skin”and therefore helps to restore thecutaneous barrier of damaged skin. Theemulsion melts on the skin during theapplication and forms a restructuringfilm which reduces TEWL.

R i c h t e x t u r e

BIOPHILIC™ is particularly recommended to create rich textures, sincethe fatty alcohol and the palmitic acid provide consistency andviscosity. The nourishing and emollient activity makes it suitable for allskin types.

The BIOPHILIC™ range contains two references with different lecithin.The hydrogenated lecithin in BIOPHILIC™ H provides very importantthickening properties and allows to formulate white and odorlessemulsions from cream to butter.BIOPHILIC™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and morefluid off-white textures from lotion to cream.

D E S C R I P T I O N

INCI NameBIOPHILIC™™™™™ H: Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols

(and) Palmitic acidBIOPHILIC™ S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acidOrganic status PCR negative quality Ecocert registeredAppearance Beige to light grey (H) or light yellow (S) oval pellets

Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutesabove 65°C

Dosage 3-6% Optimum pH 5-7Application Lotions to butter emulsions,

sun care, make-up

Oil

Smooth matrixLamellar structure creamwith BIOPHILIC™

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Before theapplication of the gel

3h after the application

of the gel

Varia

tion

of T

EWL

(%)

(com

pare

d to

unt

reat

ed z

one)

Gel with 5% BIOPHILIC™ tested on the forearms of 6 volunteers, after washing with a 10% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate

Network of stacked sheets

Primary particles

0

-5

-10

-15

20

-25-22%

AMISOL™ SOFT is an optimizedblend ofphospholipids,phytosterols andvegetable lipidswhich forms lamellar O/Wemulsionsfor soft applications.

AMISOL™ SOFT CREATES SOFT LAMELLAR O/W EMULSIONS WITH PROTECTIVE AND SOOTHING EFFECTS

T h e g e n t l e e m u l s i f i e r

L a m e l l a r n e t w o r kLamellar O/W creams and lotionsformulated with AMISOL™ SOFT areorganized in phospholipidic bilayerswith interspersed phytosterols and fatty alcohols. The combination ofphospholipids with phytosterolsallows the formation of a stablesupple lamellar network, leading tofluid emulsions. This biomimeticstructure is particularly suitable forsensitive or stressed skins.

R e p a i r i n g a c t i o nThe natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemicaldamages, causing redness and dryness. AMISOL™ SOFT forms abiomimetic lipid film on the skin’s surface to prevent damage. Thephytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin due to their well-knownanti-inflammatory properties.AMISOL™ SOFT maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum.

The TEWL is reduced ensuring optimum hydration.

P o l y s e n s o r i a lEmulsions made with AMISOL™ SOFT have three main features. Firstly,they give an immediate feeling of coolness. Secondly, the voluptuouscharacter of the emulsion provides unctuous sensation. Its shear thinningbehavior improves the spreadability properties of creams and lotions.Finally, AMISOL™ SOFT leaves the skin velvety smooth.


INCI Name Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols

Organic status PCR negative quality Ecocert registeredAppearance Light yellow pellets Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C

Dosage 3-6% Optimum pH 4-7Application Lotions to creams,

sensitive skin and babycare products, sun care,make-up

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Lamellar structure cream withAMISOL™ SOFT

Gel with 5% AMISOL™ SOFT tested on the forearmsof 11 volunteers

20

15

10

5

0

13%

17%

4%

PlaceboControl AMISOL™ SOFT5%

T 2H

T 1HTEW

L va

riatio

n (%

) (c

ompa

red

to T

0)

1%

5%

0%

HELIOFEEL™is an easy-to-usenatural O/Wemulsifier withsunflowerphospholipids.It creates a widerange of textures,and can be used in all formulationtypes.

T h e p o l y v a l e n t e m u l s i f i e r

Made with sunflower phospholipids and two other natural emulsifyingingredients, HELIOFEEL™ is the newest emulsifier in the Lucas MeyerCosmetics series. It provides a micellar O/W emulsion with adiscontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets.

E a s y - t o - u s e

HELIOFEEL™ is very simple to use as it does not require the hydrationof the phospholipids. HELIOFEEL™ is compatible with a large variety ofoils (up to 40% at 4% of HELIOFEEL™), pigments and both physical andchemical sunscreens. It forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes(e.g. 1% NaCl) and other destabilizing agents (organic acids, glycerylesters, etc.) over a wide range of pH.

L a r g e r a n g e o f t e x t u r e s

Polyvalent, it allows the formulation of a wide range of textures fromsprayable emulsions when used alone, to cream emulsions whencombined with a thickener. The viscosity increases with increasingHELIOFEEL™ and oil phase contents.According to the specific sensory profile established by an expert panel,HELIOFEEL™ gives more fluid white emulsions with higher brightnessand a better penetration when applied. This is based on its less rigid “nonlamellar structure”.

A m o i s t u r i z i n g a c t i o n

Based on the film-forming properties of phospholipids, HELIOFEEL™forms a protective barrier, which decreases TEWL and therefore helpsto keep the skin moisturized.


INCI Name Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate(and) Hydrogenated lecithin

Organic status Ecocert registeredAppearance Yellowish pellets Formulation Introduce into oil phase

Dosage 3-6% Optimum pH 4-8Application Sprayable to cream

emulsions, sun care, make-up

Active formula: HELIOFEEL™ (4%), Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (up to 100%)Placebo: Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (up to 100%)

1h 2h 3h 4h

Placebo

HELIOFEEL™

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Varia

tion

of T

EWL

(%)

(com

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d to

unt

reat

ed z

one)

-5%-6%

-6% -9%

HELIOFEEL™ PROVIDES MOISTURIZING MICELLAR O/W EMULSIONS FROM SPRAYS TO CREAMS

RESHAPING BODY LOTION 8.023.01 C69 ECO

pH: 5.0 - 5.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s pH: 5.0 - 5.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s

INGREDIENT INCI NAME %A Deionised water Water 68.90

DERMOFEEL™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10BIOPHILIC™ S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) 4.00

Palmitic acidDERMOSOFT ™ 700 B* Fragrance 0.70DERMOSOFT ™ 688 ECO* Fragrance 0.20Glycerin Glycerin 3.00Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.50

B Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 4.00DERMOFEEL™ GSC* Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.00DERMOFEEL™ TOCO 70 Tocopherol 0.30NON GMO*DERMOFEEL™ MCT* Tricaprylin 4.00Squalane Squalane 2.00Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis 4.00

(sweet almond) oilC SCULPTESSENCE™ Water (and) Glycerin (and) 5.00

Linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract

MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Glycerin (and) 2.00NATURE PF Cyathea medullaris leaf extract

D EXOTISME 2021/2* Fragrance 0.30

ANTI-AGING CREAM 2.350.04


Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.20Dissolvine NA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02Glycerin Glycerin 2.00Butylene glycol Butylene glycol 3.00

B AMISOL™ SOFT Behenyl alcohol (and) 4.00Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols

DERMOFEEL™ E 74 A * Tocopheryl acetate 0.50Nipanox BHT BHT 0.05Cetiol SB 45 Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 2.50Phytosqualane Squalane 5.00Tegosoft CO Cetyl ethylhexanoate 3.00Eutanol G16S Hexyldecyl stearate 3.00Cognis IPP Isopropyl palmitate 2.00Lanette 16 Cetyl alcohol 0.60Palmitic acid Palmitic acid 0.40Abil wax 2440 Behenoxy dimethicone 0.50Abil 350 Dimethicone 0.80DC 345 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 3.00

CyclohexasiloxaneParsol MCX Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

C HELIOGEL™ Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) 0.40Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil

D Phenonip Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben 0.60(and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

E MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Cyathea medullaris 2.00leaf extract

HYDRAPORINE™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin 4.00(and) Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin

F C3810 * Fragrance 0.35

pH: 5.2 - 5.7 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 50 000 - 60 000 mPa.s

SMOOTHING ANTI-AGING CREAM 0.161.01

INGREDIENT INCI NAME %A BIOPHILIC™ H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) 4.00

C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid Dissolvine NA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20Glycerin Glycerin 5.00Opacifier 680 Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer 2.00Deionised water Water 40.72Phenonip Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben 0.60

(and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

B Myritol 318 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 7.00Cetiol SB 45 Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 1.00DC 200.5 CS Dimethicone 2.00Stearic acid Stearic acid 1.50DC 2501 Bis PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane 2.00Lanette 16 Cetyl alcohol 0.60Cognis IPP Isopropyl palmitate 4.00

C DC 345 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 1.50Cyclohexasiloxane

D Natrosol 250M Water (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose 10.00pharm 3% gel

E ISOFLAVONES™ 150 Glycine soja (soybean) germ extract 1.60Deionised water Water 10.00DERMOFEEL™ E 74 A* Tocopheryl actetate 0.25

F PRO-LIPO™ H Water (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin 5.00(and) Phospholipids

G Retinyl palmitate Retinyl palmitate 0.03H Sodium hydroxide Water (and) Sodium hydroxide up to

solution 10% pH 6I C3810* Fragrance 1.00J FDC red 4 CI 14700 up to

color

pH: 6.0 - 6.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 45 000 - 50 000 mPa.s

SLIMMING BODY SPRAY 7. 352. 03 C64


DERMOFEEL™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10Glycerin Glycerin 3.00Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30

B HELIOFEEL™ Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) 4.00Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin

DC 200.10 CS Dimethicone 1.50DC 345 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 1.00

CyclohexasiloxaneDC 1501 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 2.50DERMOFEEL™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 2.00DERMOFEEL™ TOCO 70 Tocopherol 0.20NON GMO*Phenonip Phenoxyethanol (and) 0.70

Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

C Deionised water Water 20.00ADIPOREGULINE™ Caffeine (and) Sodium salicylate 6.50

(and) Lysolecithin (and) Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Aspartame (and) Glycine soja (soybean)germ extract (and) Silica (and) Coleus forskohlii root extract

D HYDRAPORINE™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin 3.00(and) Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin

MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Cyathea medullaris 2.00leaf extract

E EXOTISME 2021/2* Fragrance 0.30

F FDC blue 1 0.1% Water (and) CI 19140 0.30

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* Distributed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics in France.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics - ZA Les Belles Fontaines - 99 Route de Versailles - 91160 Champlan - FranceTel.: (33) 1 69 10 69 69 - Fax: (33) 1 69 10 69 70 - www.lmcosmetics.fr

We have made reasonable efforts to ensure that the information and suggestions regarding the statement of ingredients and conditions for use of our products is technically andscientifically accurate and up to date. We and our suppliers and agents neither commit nor guarantee the relevance, accuracy, presentation or use, or suitability of our productsto any specific use. Such information and suggestions shall not be deemed to grant any patent license or any other intellectual property right. We cannot guarantee that the usemade of our products, information and suggestions will respect the intellectual property rights of other third parties. Customers shall use our products, information and suggestionsat their own risk and we will therefore not accept any liability whatsoever for any such above-mentioned accounts.

Luca

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phospholipid- based emulsifiers for skin...

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