period ottoman coats survey

8/15/2019 Period Ottoman Coats Survey

1/3

Period Ottoman Coats Survey

asim al-talib (mka Woodrow Jarvis Hill)

[email protected] Edited March the Sixth, A.S. XLI

Goals

I wanted to do three things with this survey:

Provide references for building period patterns from source garments,

Analyze data for sorting out possible changes in designs over SCA-period, and

Gather information that would aid in my hypothesis that period coats did not subscribe to a

specific pattern, or even sets of patterns.

Note that this survey is far from detailed. Although we are blessed with a surfeit of extent clothing toview, all the pieces are the period equivalent of haute couture, and may or may not reflect the realities

of daily clothing for the majority of people, including nobles, in period urban Ottoman society. 2Dimages also lack details that aid in pattern reconstruction. Some examples include, but are not limited

to:

What seams, if any, exist on the back and/or shoulders? (note that some Ottoman garments

have been observed to have shoulder seams on only one shoulder)

Which body parts, if any, where the various sections of the coat were designed to fit with? For

example, does the tip of the lower-body triangle gore start on the waist, the hip, or in-between

Also, to aid on cataloging, we will be breaking down dating into timecodes, as listed above. This is sothat we can sort out dates, and avoid the hodge-podge of dating ranges (century, half-century, year

range of ruler, exact year) that exists amongst sources. The student needing additional detail isencouraged to follow the sources listed.

In gathering this data, I focus upon major tailoring pattern issues, as notated by seamlines and related

points. By and large, I ignore fabric choices, linings, hemming, sleeve lengths, collars, and other bits data that might be applicable to the point of clothing re-creation, but might also obscure the main poin

of re-producing overall coat patterns. The potential re-creator should look to this survey as abeginning, and not as a final word on the topic(s) at hand.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-

Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 License.
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/


2/3

Timecodes for Coats Survey Sheet

16th Century (1500s) : A

15th Century (1400s) : B

1st quarter (xx00-xx25) : 12st quarter (xx26-xx50), also 1st half : 2

3st quarter (xx51-xx75) : 34st quarter (xx76-xx99), also 2nd half : 4

Date Reference Page

Length

(cm) Notable elements

A1 PGL B10 140.5 "Base" coat

A1 TT Illo 6 87 Angle of front opening

A1 TT Illo 9 158.5 High start of side gore

A1 TT

Illo

11 87 Layout of sides and hip gore

A3 TT

Illo

15 150 Hip "bell"

A3 TTIllo20 137 Larger sleeves

A2 ASSM 194

ReferenceID Work LibraryThing Link

TT

The Topkapi Saray Mu-

seum: Textiles

http://www.librarything.com/work-

info.php?book=302123

PGL

Palace of Gold and Light :

Treasures from the Top-kapi, Istanbul

http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7614

ASSM

The age of Sultan Sley-

man the Magnificent

http://www.librarything.com/work-

info.php?book=7597
http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7597http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7597http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7597http://www.librarything.com/work-info.php?book=7597


3/3

Bibliography

Works Cited

TT: The Topkapi Saray Museum: TextilesPGL: Palace of Gold and Light : Treasures from the Topkapi, Istanbul

ASSM : The age of Sultan Sleyman the Magnificent

Works Consulted

Splendors of the Ottoman Empire

The Age of Sultan Suleyman the MagnificentEmpire of the Sultans : Ottoman art from the Khalili collection

Style and Status

P Magazine (Issue 3, Spring/Summer 2000)
http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=7597http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=3538723http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?book=3538791http://www.librarything.com/catalog/150774http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=302123http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=7614http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=7597http://www.librarything.com/card_card.php?book=3538723http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?book=3538791http://www.librarything.com/catalog/150774

period ottoman coats survey

Documents