pearlpurin® and its use in cosmetics€¦ · freshwater pearls & pearlpurin® production...

Pearlpurin® and its use in cosmetics

STS Tensid Service GmbH


Freshwater pearls and their usein cosmetics• What is Pearlpurin®?• Freshwater pearls and Pearlpurin®

production• Composition,structure & formation of pearls• Analysis of pearl powder• Pearlpurin® : a history of pearl powder use• Pearlpurin® : cosmetic effects

- moisturising- improvement of skin smoothness & elasticity- stimulation of cutaneous fibroblasts- Synergy of UVA / UVB Protection

What is Pearlpurin® ?


• Pearlpurin® PP is a micronised powder of freshwater pearls

• Pearlpurin ® PH is the water soluble form of Pearlpurin® PP

• Pearlpurin® PP contains both inorganic(aragonite crystalls) and organic (proteincomplexes, amino acids & polysaccharides) constituents for cosmetic efficacy

• Supported by efficacy test results

Freshwater pearl farm in China


Freshwater pearlsare grown in naturalfreshwater lakes in China

Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® production

Pearls are carefully sorted byhand under strict hygienicconditions.The larger pearls are used forjewellery. Smaller pearls areused as raw material for thePearlpurin®-production, because of their higherproteinconcentration.


Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® productionextensive technical microcrack grinding processes

Step 2: particle size < 5µmStep 1: particle size max 200 µm


Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® production

• Hydrolysation of Pearlpurin® PP

to Pearlpurin® PH

• Spray-dry of liquid slurry to

Pearlpurin® PH powder• Production according to GPM

standards


Freshwater pearl composition


Pearls consist of alternating layers of crystallised CaCO3cemented together by an organic matrix (1-3,5%) :

Calcium carbonate as aragonite plates(~ 95-98%)

Polymer complexes composed of proteins/polypeptids(nacrein13 / mucoperlin10/ lustrin11/ perlucin12) and the polysaccharide chitin (~ 1-3,5%)

Water (~ 2-4%)

Trace elements

Pearl structureThe “annual rings“ of a pearl


Pearl structureStructures of calcite and aragonite

calcite aragonite


Freshwater pearl formation

• Pearls are “biominerals“

• Biomineralisation is controlled by a complex extracellular matrix of proteins& polysaccharides


Freshwater pearl formationBiomineralisation- enzymatical step

Nacreinfrom EctodermNacreinfrom Ectoderm

CO2 + H2O CO32- + 2H+HCO3

- + H+

Nacrein – one of the complex proteins, responsible for theformation of pearls


Freshwater pearl formationBiomineralisation- formation of aragonite-microlamina

Ca2+


Ca2+NacreinNacrein NacreinNacrein Ca2+ CO32+NacreinNacrein

CO32+

polymorph

PS PaP

PaPPaP

PS PS NacreinNacrein

AragoniteAragonite

biomineralised

Nacrein-PS-PaP, a complex with biomineralisation propertiesPS= polysaccharide PaP= Polyanionic protein

Freshwater pearl analysis


Requirements for application in cosmetic productsmicrobiological assay (viable count)

concentration of heavy metals (X-ray fluorescence analysis)polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (chromatographic analysis)

Analysis of the componentsprotein concentration

analysis of amino acidsparticle size of the pearl powder

solid-density measurements

Freshwater pearl analysisComparison of different protein compositions

Properties Aminoacid

Lustrinesoluble

Silkfibrin

Collagen (mammal)

12 % 7 %

4 % 8 %

Non-polar GlyAlaValPro

12 % 6 %

38 % 27 % 2,5 % 0,5 %

6 % 14 %

32 % 12 % 2 % 22 %

17 % 21 % 3 % 2 %

4 % 5 %

3 % ND

2 % 13 %

9 % 7 %

Pearl

Acid AsxGlx

1,5 % 1,5 %

11 % 6 %

Basic LysArg

0,5 % 1 %

4 % 7 %

Polar SerCys

13 % ND

9 % ND


Freshwater pearl analysisThe composition of the amino acids in Pearlpurin PPin comparison to silkprotein

Amino acids Pearlpurin PP Silkprotein Symbol Name Mass% Mass%

Asp Aspargine acid 10,7 1,5 Thr Threonin 2,2 1 Ser Serin 9,2 13 Glu Glutamic acid 6,3 1,5 Pro Proline 2,3 0,5 Gly Glycin 16,5 38 Ala Alanin 20,8 27 Val Valin 2,9 2,5 Met Methionin 0,2 0,5 Ile Isoleucin 2,2 1

Leu Leucin 6,4 0,5 Tyr Tyrosin - 9,5 Phe Phenylanalin 5,5 1 His Histidin 4,6 0,5 Lys Lysin 3,5 0,5 Arg Arginin 6,6 1

Essential Amino acids Pearlpurin PP = Freshwaterpearl-powder


Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the protein concentration in different pearl types


ws as bs ds

wb ab bb db

ws – white, small wb – white, big

as – apricot, small ab – apricot, big

bs – blue, small bb – blue, big

ds – dead, small db – dead, big

Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the protein concentration in different pearl types


0,00

0,50

1,00

1,50

2,00

2,50

3,00

3,50

wb ws ab as bb bs db ds

Sample properties

Prot

einc

once

ntra

tion

%

Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of electrolytes, trace elements and heavy metals

Electrolytes and trace elements:

Na, Cl, K, Mg, S, P, Mg, Al, Si, Mn, Fe, Sr

Heavy metals:

Cd, Ni, Cr, Hg, Pb < 10 ppm


Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the particle size


d10= 0,66µm d50= 1,44µm d90= 3,41µm d95= 4,19µm d97= 4,82µm

Cosmetic & health effects: history of use of pearl powder


Used for over 2000 years in China in bothtraditional medicine and topical applications15

Traditional medicine :Anti-ageing 1,5,6

Anti-radiative,6

Nourishes body & skin1

Inflammatory illnesses4

Detoxifying15

Healing15


Used for over 2000 years in China in both traditional medicineand topical applications (Compendium of Materia Medica)15

Applied topicallySmooths15, softens & nourishes skin1, maintains skin tone7

anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle4,15

speeds skins natural metabolism /rejuvenates skin4

heals blemishes1,4, anti-acne15, minimises large pores4, skin lightening properties1,15

promotes SOD (superoxide dimutase activity) 1gently exfoliates/polishes the skin1

synergistically enhances moisturisation & UV protection1

promotes growth of new skin cells1

wound healing (3% in ointment) 15

Cosmetic & health effects: history of use of pearl powder

Cosmetic effects

Skin moisturisation / hydrationImprovement of skin firmness &

smoothnessSkin repair

Stimulation of cutaneous fibroblastsBooster effect of UVA / UVB protection


Skin moisturization & hydration

Freshwater pearls contain naturalmoisturisers in the form of a wide range of

amino acids, protein complexes and polysaccharides



Skin moisturization & hydrationPearlpurin® PP 5%

Improvement of skin firmnessPearlpurin® PP 5%


Improvement of skin smoothnessPearlpurin® PP 5%


Skin repair: stimulation of cutaneous fibroblasts


Reference: Tissue & Cell 2000 32 (1) 95 – 1017

“Stimulation of rat cutaneous fibroblasts and

their synthetic activity by implants of powdered

nacre (mother of pearl)“

.......it results in enhanced extracellular matrix

synthesis and the production of components

implicated in cell adhesion and communication (such

as decorine) and in tissue regeneration, in

synthesising typ I and type III collagen.....


Synergistic UVA / UVB protectionINCI Placebo 1 2 3 4 5

Phase A Sympatens - O/100Steareth-100,Steareth-20,Steareth-10,Steareth-2 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0%

Sympatens - AS/020Steareth-2 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Sympatens - ES Octylstearate 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5%Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8%Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%IPM Isopropylmyristate 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5%Avocadooil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Jojobaoil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Propylparabene 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1%Eusolex 2292 Ethylhexyl Methoxicinnamate - - - - - -

Phase B Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone - 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 5,0% 10,0%Pearlpurin PP Pearl Powder - - 2,5% 7,5% 5,0% -Glycerol 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Water 72,0% 69,5% 67,0% 62,0% 62,0% 62,0%Methylparabene 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%

Total 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0%SPF in vitro 2 + / - 1 7 + / - 2 15 + / - 3 20 + / - 3 25 + / - 3 30 + / - 2

SPF-Test according to method of Diffey and Robson - 1


Synergistic UVA / UVB protectionSPF-Test according to method of Diffey and Robson - 2

INCI 6 7 8 9 10 11

Phase A Sympatens - O/100Steareth-100,Steareth-20,Steareth-10,Steareth-2 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0%

Sympatens - AS/020 Steareth-2 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Sympatens - ES Octylstearate 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5%Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8%Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%IPM Isopropylmyristate 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5%Avocadooil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Jojobaoil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Propylparabene 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1%Eusolex 2292 Ethylhexyl Methoxicinnamate - - 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%

Phase B Eusolex T 2000Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 10,0% 15,0% 4,0% 2,0% - -

Pearlpurin PP Pearl Powder 5,0% - 2,0% 4,0% 8,0%Glycerol 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Water 57,0% 57,0% 63,0% 63,0% 63,0% 59,0%Methylparabene 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%

total 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0%SPF in vitro

34 + / - 3 36 + / - 3 22 + / - 1 22 + / - 2 20 + / - 3 25 + / - 3

Pearlpurin® PPAnalysis of the dermatological efficacy

UVA / UVB –ratio

Dermal moisture

Dermal elasticity

Dermal incompatibility none

Recommended use levels: 5% (optimum)


Improvement of skin firmnessPearlpurin® PH – different percentages


Improvement of skin smoothnessPearlpurin® PH – different percentages


Pearlpurin® PHAnalysis of the dermatological efficacy

Dermal moisture

Dermal elasticity

Dermal smoothness

Dermal incompatibility ND

Recommended use levels: 0,25% - 5,0% (optimum)


Conclusions

Pearlpurin® is an exciting and effective multifunctional active for skincare - especially anti-ageing products.



References :

1. Su, E. G. (2003) Asian Botanicals, pub. Allured Publishing Corporation.2. Keys, John, D. (1976) Chinese Herbs : Their Botany, Chemistry and

Pharmacodynamics PUB. Charles E. Tuttle Company3. Reid, D. (1995) A Handbook of Chinese Healing Herbs, pub. Shambhala, Boston.

is not enough to know, you4. Hadady, L. (2000) Pearls of health and beauty, Nutrition Science News5. Tong, Z.H. et al. (1988) The anti-aging effect of pearl oyster shell powder. J.

Tradit. Chin. Med. 8 (4) : 247-50.6. Cao, G. et al. (1996) [Pearl and Mother of pearl powder in health care] 7. Lopez, E. et al. (2000) Stimulation of rat cutaneous fibroblasts and their

synthetic activity by implants of nacre (mother of pearl), Tissue& cell, 32 (1): 95-101.

8. Bedout, L. et al. (2001) soluble proteins of the nacre of the giant oyster Pinctadamaxima and of the abalone Haliotis tuberculata: extraction and partial analysisof nacre proteins. Comp. Biochem. Mol. Biol. 128 (3): 389-400

9. Pereira-Mouriès, L et al (2002) Soluble silk-like organic matrix in the nacreouslayer of the bivalve Pinctada maxima. Eur. J. Biochem. 269 (20): 4994-5003.

References :

10. Marin, F. et al. (2000) Mucins and molecular calcification. J. Biol. Chem. 275 (27): 20667-20675

11. Shen, X. et al. (1997) Molecular cloning and characterisation of Lustrin A , a matrix protein from shell and pearl nacre of Haliotis rufescens. J. Bio. Chem. 272 (51) : 32472-32481.

12. Mann, K. et al. (2000) The amino-acid sequence of the abalone (HaliotisLaevigata) nacre protein, perlucin Eur. J. Biochem. 267, 5257-5264.

13. Miyamoto, H. et al. (1996) A carbonic anhydrase from the nacreous layer in oyster pearls Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA. 93, 9657-9660.

14. Bowen, C. E. & Tang, HG. (1996). Conchiolin-protein in aragonite shells of mollusks. Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 115A (4) : 269-275.

15. Leung, A.Y. & Foster, S: (1996) Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients Used in Food and Cosmetics, pub. John Wiley & Sons Inc., 2nd edn.


Pearlpurin® is brought to you by STS Biotec Ltd., China


pearlpurin® and its use in cosmetics€¦ · freshwater pearls & pearlpurin® production...

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