Agenda

• Body Measurements

• Sizing System

• Pattern Construction Techniques

• Production Patterns

Patternmaking

Population

Size chart formation Somatometric data analysis

Taking body measurements

Pattern construction procedure:

PATTERNPATTERNMAKINGMAKING

Virtual display

•The Block Pattern…basic pattern that is used as a basic for all adaptations.

•The Working Pattern…is used for marking out the basic style lines and design feature.•The final Pattern (Master)…is pattern from which the garment will be cut. It must be clearly market with all the information required for making up the garment.

SIZE 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust (cm) 80.0 84.0 88.0 92.0 96.0 100.0 104.0

W aist (cm) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

Hips (cm) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

450

500

550

600

650

700

750

800

-34 -29 -24 -19 -14 -9 -4 1 6 11 16 21 26 31 36

difference (bust and hip)

Freq

uenc

y

StraightStraight--lined lined (linear)(linear)

CurvesCurves((nonnon--linearlinear))

OthersOthers

Heights Widths Lengths Widths Girths

Front Profile

Diagram of the Body Measurements

measuring tool-measuring tape

Bust prominence width

measuring tool-anthropometre

Stature

Head width

Under arm length

Shoulder width Bust girth

Crutch depth (Body rise)

Taking body measurements manually

Measurements required for bodice and sleeve

Across back (back width)–(bw)–15

Nape to waist (back length)

–(nw)–14

Bust prominence width–(bwp)–13

Across front (front width)–(fw)–12

Front length to waist–(wfl)–11

Shoulder length–(shl)–10

Sleeve length–(sl)–9

Front length to bust–(bfl)–8

Wrist girth–(wrg)–7

Upper arm girth –(uag)–6

Elbow girth–(eg)–5

Neck girth–(ng)–4

Waist girth–(wg)–3

Bust girth–(bg)–2

Body height–(h)–1

Measurements required for skirt and trousers

Waist girth–(wg)–3

Crutch depth (Body rise)

–(cd)–26

Inside leg length–(lli)–25

Outside leg length–(llo)–24

Ankle length (waist to ankle)

–(al)–23

Knee length (waist to knee)

–(kl)–22

Ankle girth–(ag)–21

Calf girth–(cg)–20

Knee girth –(kg)–19

Thigh girth–(tg)–18

Upper hip girth–(uhg)–17

Hip girth–(hg)–16

Height–(h)–1

Measurements

The parallel plains with the basic plain are horizontal plainsand perpendicular to the vertical plains. Significant horizontal (transversal) plains, which are situated in important points on the human body surface, are e.g.

v

nshb

w

hctk

a

Basic plain

Vertical plains1 - centre back plain,2 - side neck plain,3 - back armhole plain,4 - side plain,5 - front armhole plain,6 - chest plain,7 - centre front plain,8 - inside leg plain.

Horizontal plainsv - vertex plain,n - neck plain,sh -shoulder plain,b - bust plain,w - waist plain,h - hip plain,c - crutch plaint - thigh plain,k - knee plain,a - ankle plain.

1 2

3 4 4 5 6 7

Back body Front body

Apparel patternmaking construction net

The horizontal and vertical contour lines of the cross sections project into the frontal plane. The flattened human body surface gives to us systems of respectively perpendicular lines so – calledconstruction net.The net is the base for the apparel pattern construction.

v

nshbw

hc

k

a

v

n

bw

c

k

a

sh

b

e

wr

Industrial Sizing SystemA sizing systemA sizing system is a table of numbers which presents the value of each of the body dimensions used to classify the bodies encountered in the population for each size group in the system. Sizing system is the parameter complex specified with the help of essential body dimensions: Height, Bust girth, Waist girth – for men, Hip girth – for women

Size intervals are usually classified according to height and drop value.

For women, drop value is defined as the difference between the hipcircumference and the bust circumference.

For men, drop value is defined as the difference between the chest and the waist measurement.

SIZE 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust (cm) 80.0 84.0 88.0 92.0 96.0 100.0 104.0

W aist (cm) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

Hips (cm) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

104

96

158

women

100

men

80170

Ready-to-wear garment pattern is produced to use body = constructional dimensions,that are setting in connection with the proposed sizing assortment

Constructional abscissa

A B

BA

CK

BO

DIC

E

FRO

NT

BO

DIC

E

Body block pattern construction

e.g. Basic formula for front width:

AB = 0.24 * wg + 2,5

Constructional abscissa(regression equation)

ABi = ki * Di + qi + ei

ABi constructional abscissaki regression coefficientDi body dimensionqi absolute termei easy allowances

Pattern construction techniques

Pattern represents the two-dimensionalcomponent parts of a garment. They are used as a guide for cutting the fabric, which sewn together form a three – dimensional garment. The creation of these patterns is the technique of pattern construction.

Garment shaping by suppressionGarment shaping by suppressionSuppression is the reduction of surplus fabric to obtain a closer fit using darts, seams, pleats or gathers.

C CC

D D

AA A

D

EEEE BB G

bk fr

G C

B D

C A

BE CF

SUPRASIONS AREAS

A = front shoulder dart E = side seam

B = front waist dart F = elbow dart

C = back shoulder dart G = wrist dart

D = back waist dart

The construction points are named according to their place on the body surface and according to the number of construction steps and they are marked by letters and numbers e.g.

-N1-horizontal

line nvertical line 1

-N2-horizontal

line nvertical line 2

-N21-horizontal

line nvertical line 2

-N21- step 1th

N1N2

N21

1 2n

Production patternsSeams, hems and facings are required to complete a garment pattern for production.

Shell patternLining patternInterlining pattern

Shell

Lining InterliningBac

k-In

terli

ning

Bac

k-Li

ning

Bac

k-Sh

ell

Seam allowancesThe seam allowance is the distance from the stitching line to the perimeter of a cut garment part. The amount of seam allowance can vary greatly according to:(1) The position of the seam and how much stress it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and sleeve head (minimum allowance 1 cm).(2) The curvature of the seam influences the seam width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice requires a narrower seam where convex and concave curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm). (3) Enclosed seams require a narrow seam allowance, e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm). (4) The type of machinery required for stitching

the seam influences the seam allowance widthe.g. a flat felled seam

(1)

Flat Felled Seam

(2)

(3) (2)

stitching line

seam allowance

(5) The type of fabric often determines the width of the seam allowance and how it is neatened e.g.:- loosely woven fabric - sheer fabric - thick fabric - stretch fabric (6) A wide seam allowance is required for inserting a zip fastener, e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm). Wide seam allowances, known as inlays, are also required where a garment is specifically constructed for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5 cm).

Seam for loosely woven fabric

Seams for sheer fabric

Seam for thick fabric Seam for stretch fabric

Wide seam allowances

Hem allowanceThe shape of the hemline influences the width of the hem allowance. A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide. Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem width has to be reduced. The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.

Straight hem Straight hem with mirrored corners

Circular hem

References• MUSILOVA,B. KOMARKOVA,P. GLOMBIKOVA,V.Basic pattern block construction.

Liberec:TUL 2003, ISBN 80-7083-687-3

• LINDSAY CARTER,J,E.HONEYMAN HEATH,B. Somatotyping: Development and Applications . Cambridge University Press 1999, ISBN 0521351170

• Aldrich, W. Metric Pattern Catting. Manchester: Blackwell Publishing 2003, ISBN-1-4051-0278-0.

• Winks,J,M.Clothing Sizes:International Standardization. The textile institut Manchester1997,ISBN 1870812727

• FAN,J.YU,W.HUNTER,L.Clothing appearance and fit:Science and technology.Woodhead Publishing Ltd,Cambridge2004,ISBN1855737450

• EBERLE,H. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel Verlag 2008, ISBN-13: 978- 3808562246