pasion for flavor

I2 BUILDING BLOCKS

t^ll

StocKs anc sauces

FON SUTER DEPTH OF FLAVOUR,THERE IS SIMPLY NO REAL SUBSTITUTE FOR

FRESH, HOMEMADE STOCK WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING SAUCES.TUC RICTI

FLAVoURoFsTocKDEPENDsoNFRESHINGRED|ENTS,THESPEc|F|cPREPA-

RAT|oNoFAFoUNDATIoNFoRFLAVoUR_THERoASTINGoFBoNESAND

THESWEAT|NGoFVEGETABLES,FoLLowEDBYTHELoNG,SLowS|MMER|NG

ToDRAWoUTTHENATURALBoUQUEToFTHE|NGRED|ENTS;AND'F|NALLY'

THE BOILING DOWN TO REDUCE AND CONCENTRATE FLAVOUR'

RTOUCTIOUS ARE VERY IMPORTANT IN STOCKS AND SAUCES. IN NII MY

RECIPES, YOU WILL FIND DIRECTIONS TO REDUCE DOWN BY A HALF OR

TWO-THIRDS _ EVEN WITH A STOCK THAT HAS ALREADY BEEN REDUCED'

THIS IS WHAT GIVES A SAUCE ITS DEPTH, ITS INTENSITY OF FLAVOUR AND'

ASNooTHER,MAG|C'INGRED|ENTSARENEEDED,TH|SKEEPS|TL|GHT|N

TEXTURE TOO, NEITHER CLOYING NOR THICK NOR FORMING A SKIN.

Tgr SrILI IN MAKING GOOD STOCKS AND SAUCES LIES IN PATIENCE:

EVEN AN ABSOLUTE BEGINNER CAN MAKE STOCK. IT YOU CIN CHOP VEG-

ETABLESANDREGULATEAcooKERTABYoUcANMAKEAGooDSToCK-

BASE OR SAUCE. AIT YV STOCKS ARE MADE IN THE SAI'4E WAY. TFTY XNY

TAKE TIME, BUT THEy ARE UNDEMANDING AND, AT HOwr, It's WELL WORTH

MAKING UP A FULL BATCH AND FREEZING IN SOOVi/ ISTI OZI2 CUP AND

l00vL/3Zrr- ozlt/z cup BLocKS. THnr wnv' You'LL ALWAYS HAVE YouR

OWN .STOCK.CUBES' TO HAND, READY TO PRODUCE SUBLIME SAUCES.

I A large pan, preferably a stockpot, of at least 1.2 litre/2o pint capacity

is essential. lf you don't have a stockpot then a preserving pan will do.

2 For brown stocks, it is necessary to roast the bones oI carcasses initial-

1y in a very hot oven, turning occasionally. This gives flavour and colour

to the srock.Any fat should be drained oiTbefore adding the bones to the

stockpor. Light stocks and fish srocks don't require this initial browning.

3 As the stock comes to the boi1, a scum will form.This is a natural accu-

mulation of proteins and vegetable starches that wili cloud the stock unless

removed. Frequent skimming with a iarge, unslotted spoon is essential.

4 Do not season stocks r,rith salt.There is enough natural salt in the veg-

etables, and as the liquor becomes reduced down, these will concentrate.

Seasoning is generally added right at the end of the sauce-making process.

5 Finally, when the stock is ready, strain through a colander lined with a

wet muslin cloth. Alternatively, an old, clean tea towel will sufEce.When

the stock cools, chill it and scrape off any fat that forms on the top'

Vegetable nage: ]:- CIOUSLY LIGHT, NEUTRAL BASE FOR MANY OF MY SAUCES AND SOUPS

-r- s eulcKAND EASYTo MAKE,AND IDEAL FoR GENERAL usr' lru somr

: .,. SAUCES, I usr Vrcernelr NRcr tN coMBlNATloN wlrH orHER

.::<S To L|GHTEN rHev, FoR MAX|MUM FLAVoUR, ooN't STRA|N oUT

.-: .:GETABLES AFTER COOKING. LEIVC TUEY TO STEEP IN THE STOCK'

.-:" fRAIN SOME 24 HOURS LATER.

I .-e the PrePared

-.: ,:.le-' along rvith

.::r,rn rvedges, PeP-

':.:r'. bay leaf and

- .::1.c in a stockpot

.::a \:lUCepan.

? :-.:i the rvater and

:- :o the boil, then

: .: the heat to

::r:.rir) :r simmer for about 10 minutes'

J-4 l{crlove the stock from the heat' Add the

..: ir.'rbs and rvhite wine' Push the herbs dorvn

: :hc liquid so that everything is submerged,

::: 'ct the stock aside to cool and allow the

:.-. to infuse the stock with their flavourings'

5 :i hcn t1-re stock is cooi, pour it into jars

and transfer it to the

refrigerator. Continue the

steeping Process for about

24 hours.

6 Strain the stock by pouring it through

a muslin-lined colander set over a large bowl'

Discard the vegetables, herbs and spices' The

stock is now ready to use. Alternatively, chill

or freeze it untii required.

BUILDiNG tsLOCKS I3

INGREDIENTS (makes 1.5 litres/

7% pintslSt/z cuPs)

3 onions, coarsely choPPed

1 leek, coarsely choPPed

2 celery sticks, codrsely choPPed

5 carrots, coarselY choPPed

'1 whole head garlic, sPlit in hdLf

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges

% teaspoon white PePPercorns

% teaspoort pink pePPetcorns

% bay leaJ

4 star anise

2 litres/3% pints/9 cups cold water

1 sprig each of tarrdgott, basil, coriander, thyme,

pdrsley and cheruil

200m1/7fl oz/',4 cuP drY white uine

STORAGE

VrcEtneLE Nnce wtrl KEEP FoR uP To 3 DAYs lN A SEALED

coNTAtNER lN THE REFRIGERAToR oR 2-3 voNrls rN rrte

FREEZER. IT IS N COOO IDEA TO FREEZE IT IN BLOCKS OF

500vr-/ lSrr ozl2 cups nxo or l00vl/3tA FL ozlt/z cuP'

If you can choq uegetdbles and

make d good stock-base or sauce':r'r: i. l;i il i .:1" f ,,

''. - '.., i,.'

reguldte a cook.er taP, You can

I4 I]UILDING BLOCKS

Fish stocl<TFir sssr FtsH BoNES To usE FoR srocK, tF posstBLE, ARE TURBoT

OR SOLE - OTHERS CAN BE TOO OILY OR STRONG IN FLAVOUR _ BUT

HAKE oR HADDoCK wtLL Do tNSTEAD. Cur our rHE EyEs AND GtLLs,

AND MAKE suRE ANy TRACES oF BLooD ARE wASHED out. lr youR

FISHMONGER OOESITI'T HAVE SUFFICIENT BONES, YOU CAN USE TAIL

PIECES OF FISH INSTEAD.

I In a covered stockpot or large saucepan, srveat the vegetables in the oil

over a nedium heat for abor-rt 7 mtrutes until they are softened but not

coloured.

2 Add the fish bones and u'ine, and cook until the wine has evaporated.

3 Pour in the water, which should just cover the bones. l3ring to the boii

and, using a ladle, skim off rhe scurn that rises to the top.

4 When all the scum has been remo'ed, add the fresl-r herbs, lernon sliccs

and peppercorns, and simr'er for about 20 minutes. Remove fror, the

heat and allorv to rest undistr-rrbed for about '1 [J minutes so that the liquidcan clear and settle.

5 Strain the stock b1' pouring the contetrts of the pan through a rnushn-

lined colander set over a large bou'1 or food container. cool the strained

stock, then chill or fieeze until required.

Fish velout6THe rtcHr BoDy oF THts FULL-FLAVouRED sAUCE coMEs FRoM THE wE,._REDUCED srocK AND THE cREAty. Tur snuce cAN BE MADE AHEAD oF

TII"1E AND STORED IN THE REFRIGERATOR FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS.

I In a -'vide, shallorv saucepan, gentlv sar,rt6 the shallots in the butter for

about 12 minutes until very soft, yet still uncoloured.

2 Deglaze the pan rvith the wine and the Noilly prar or vernouth, then

boil the liquid for about I0 minutes, or unril it has reduced to the

consistencv of a thin syrup.

3 Stir in the Fish Stock. Bring the hquid back to the boil then continue

to boil it down until it reduces by about hall4 Stir ir-r both creans. Return the par to the boil and si'rmer the sauce

for about 15 minutes or r-rntil rt accir,rires a coating consistencl..

5 For an extra smooth, velvetv tertlue, pour the sauce through a fine sieve.

INGREDIENTS (makes about

2 litresl3'A pints/9 cups)

1 small leek,J'inely chopped

1 small onion,-finely chopped

'1 celery stick,-finely chopped

% bulh .fennel, Jinell' chopped

2 cloues garlic, unpeeled

100m1 / 3% Jl oz /'l cup oliue oil

1.5kg/ 3lb 4oz .fish bones, rouohll, chopped

300m1/% pint/ 1% cups dry uthite tuine

2 litres/32 pints/9 atps cold watet

2 sltrigs each o;f parsley and tlryrne

'/ lemon, sliced

% teaspoon tuhite peppercorns

STORAGE

Tlts sroc< wtLL KEEp FoR up ro 7 onys rN A SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS BOILED

FoR A FEW MTNUTES eve ny 3-4 oeys. lt tyay nLso BE FRozEN

- tN USABLE At4ouNTs AS DESIRED - FoR up ro 2 voNrls.

I NGREDIENTS (makes about

4|Omll% pint/2 cups)

1 shallots, Jinely sliced

159/%oz hutter

250ntl/9ll oz/1 up dry tuhite wine

250nrl/9.fl oz/1 cup Noilly Prat ot dry uermoutlt

500m1/18,11 oz/2 cttps Fish Stock (aboue)

250n1/9J1 oz/1utp double cream

250m1 /9fl oz/1 cup single crearn

Langoustine stock- - > STOCK FORMS THE BASE OF ONE OF MY FAVOURITE RECIPES'

'-. CnppuccrNo oF Ronsrro LRNcousrtrue nNo Lerurtls (encr 35).

' : A VERY VERSATILE STOCK WHICH CAN BE REDUCED TO MAKE A

.;, >rlNG SAUCE lN ITS OWN RIGHT WHICH lS IDEAL FOR SERVING WITH

. I. 3.I AND WHICH CAN ALSO BE REDUCED FURTHER AND USED AS A BASE

' :; i vtNAtcRETTE. As sucH, tr wtLL MAKE A MEMoRABLE DRESSING

,r; r\y sALAD wHrcH tNCLUDES SEAWATER FlsH oR sHELLF|SH.You mnv

. ..: THAT YOUR FISHMONGER SELLS LANGOUSTINES UNDER THE NAME OF

l -:- N Bnv pRAwNs. lNsrrno oF THRowING AWAY THEIR HEADS

r ; -!i PEELING, RESERVE THEM FOR MAKING THIS STOCK. LOBSTER

:;:ASSES, cHoppED tNro 5cm/2tN PtECES, cAN BE PUT To rHE sAME

] J bUUU ErTELI.

| :::.rr;r large roasting pan on top of the cooker and add half of the oil.

j:r hot, saut6 the langoustine heads and shells if using, shaking the pan

' :::rning the heads occasionally until they turn golden brown.

I :: .inother large pan, heat the remaining oil and add all of the vegeta-

.-rut6eing them until they start to caramelize and acquire a golden

,::. Add the saut6ed langoustine heads.

l -': jl.rze with the Cognac, then add the wine and boil until reduced by

.:: half. Pour in the Fish Stock, water, fresh herbs and spices. Simmer

':.rck for about 20 minutes to reduce it down by one-third and cook

: :l:c ral flavours.

{ .::rin the liquid through a muslin-lined sieve. It is now ready to use

. .rock, which can be reduced again slightly for a little more

: - :nrration of flavour and to make a delicious sauce. Check the

: -,r:rins iust before use.

BUILDING BLOCKS I5

INGREDIENTS (makes about I litre/

l% pintsl4t/z cups)

100m1/ 3 % J1 oz /',1 cup oliue oil

21 heads, or heads and shells, of langoustines,

weighing about 5 00g / 1lb

2 small ca{rots, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped


'L small bulb fennel, chopped

2 ;fresh tomatoes, chopped

2 teaspoons Cognac

200m1/7Jl oz/Z cup dry white wine

5 00ml / 1 SJl oz / 2 cups Fish Stock (page 14)

500m1/18-fl oz/2 cups cold water

1 large sprig each o;f tarragon, basil, thyme

and coridnder

% bay leaf

2 star anise

% teaspoon white peppercorns

% teaspoon black peppercorns

% teaspoon coriander seeds

sea salt (optional)

STORAGE

THE srocK AND THE sAUcE wtLL KEEP FoR up to 2 olvs tN

THE REFRTcERAToR, oR FoR upto 2 ttoNttls lN THE FREEzER.

I6 BUILDING BLOCKS

Cou rt- bou illonA ltcur, FRAGRANT srocK oF vEGETABLES, HERBS AND wHtrE wtNE, THts

CouRr-eouu-LoN ts usED FoR poAcHrNG FtsH, cRABs AND vARtous orHER

SHELLFTSH. Arrrn usrr.tc lr oNcE FoR poAcHtNG puRposEs, tr cAN BE

FROZEN AND THEN RE-USED ONCE OR TWICE AGAIN BEFORE DISCARDING.

I Place the vegetables and fresh herbs in a stockpot or large saucepan.Add

sulhcient water to just cover the ingredients. Bring the water to the boil.

2 Add the peppercorns, salt, lemon slices, star anise and wine. Bring the

liquid to the boil again, then simmer for about 30 minutes.

3 Strain the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin-

lined colander set over a large bowi or food container. Discard the veg-

etables, herbs, spices and lemon.The Court-bouillon is now ready for use.

Aiternatively. chill or freeze until required.

Veal stockTHe ense FoR MANy oF My sAUCES,VEAL Srocrc HAs RtcHNEss, BoDyAND

AN ATTRACIvE colouR.VrnL soNes ARE BEsr FoR THts srocK BECAUsE

OF THEIR GELATINE AND FINE FLAVOUR; BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE BEEF BONES,

THe eoNles cAN BE oBTAINED FRoM MANy TRADIIoNAL BUTCHERs,

ALTHoUGH YoU MAY NEED To oRDER THEM IN ADVANcE.AS BoTH VEAL AND

BEEF BONES TEND TO BE QUITE LARGE, ASK THE BUTCHER TO CHOP THEM

UP FOR YOU SO THAT THEIR FLAVOUR CAN BE FULLY RELEASED.

I Preheat the oven to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Place the bones irr a

large roasting pan with half the olive oi1 and roast in the oven until gold-

en brown, turning occasionally.This should take between 1-1%hotrs.

2 Meanwhile, place the vegetables with the garlic in a stockpot or

large saucepan with the remaining oi1. Fry gently until tighdy coloured,

turning occasionally.

INGREDIENTS (makes 1.5 litres/

2% pintsl6t/z cups)

1 leeks, coarsely chopped

4 carrots, coarsely chopped

2 celery sticks, coarsell chopped

4 onions, coarsely chopped

6 shallots, coarsely chopped

2 bulbs fennel, coarsely chopped


1 large sprig each o;f thyme, taffagon, basil and parsley

2 litres/3% pints/9 cups cold water

% teaspoon white peppercorns

259/1oz rock salt

2 lemons, sliced

4 star anise

400m1/14J1 oz/1% cups dry white wine

STORAGE

Counr-goutlloN wrLL KEEp FoR up ro 2-3 olys rr.r

A SEALED coNTAtNER lN THE REFRtcERATon on ron 2-3

MONTHS IN THE FREEZER.


2-3 litresl3%-S% pintsl9- l3 cups)

jkg/57'lb ueal or beeJ bones

200m1/7J1 oz/',4 cup oliue oil

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

4 large carrots, coarsely chopped

3 celery sticks, coarsely chopped

% whole head garlic, unpeeled

2 tablespoons concentruted tomato purte

350m1/12fl oz/1% cwps Madeira

350m1/12fl oz/1% cups ruby port

10 litres/18 pints cold water

2009/7oz mushrooms

7 large Bouquet Cayni (page 18)

] .- : ::r the tomato pur6e and continue cooking until everythingis gold-

: .'. jr then pour in the Madeira and the port. Reduce the liquid by

: ::cntlv until it acquires a syrupy consistency.

{ ': , c the bones have a rich colour, drain them ofany fat using kitchen

: :.-t cls if necessary. Add them to the vegetables along with the water.

5 - :.::. rhe water to the boil, skim off the scum that rises using a ladle, then

' r: inushrooms and the Bouquet Garni. Simmer very gently for about

.:'. rkinrming offany further scum that accumulates on the surface'

6 .':,::: the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin-

: -.,l.rnder set over a iarge bowl. Discard the bones, vegetables and

,::: (';rrni.

.i :'.-r out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan

.:,...r'n again until reduced by half. Cool and use as required.

Lam b stocl<!.:: r:Lv FoR usE tN LAMB DISHES AND sAUcEs.WE usE RIB oR NEcK oF

-i 3ONES, BUT SHOULDER OR LEG BONES ARE ALSO FINE.

I ,'::'irc.rt the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6. Place the lamb bones

r:gc roasting tin and stir in haif the oil. Roast in the oven for 50-60

,::.\. turning occasionally until well browned.

2 '.i.'.rnll'hile, in a stockpot or a large saucepan, heat the remaining oil,

: :':.xrn the vegetables for abor.rt 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3 . ):glaze r.vith the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by about

: \rir in the concentrated tonato pur6e, Bouquet Garni and the water.

{ ,i :nrove the bones from the oven and tip into the stockpot or saucepan,

,,,: cereful to avoid pouring in any of the fat or oil.

5 .:.rJual1y bring to the boil, skimming with a large spoon to remove any

-'-:::r.nt that forms on the top.

6 lJorl gently for about 4 hours or until reduced by half, sti11 skin'rming

. .r.rona1ly.

7 t..rretully pour through a mi-rslin-lined colander set over a bowl.

6 'd ipe out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan. Boil

:.::r r.rntil reduced to about 2 \itres/3% pints/9 cups. Cooi, chill and

:.:rrr)\'e any fat that sets on the top. use as required.

BUILDING BLOCKS I7

STORAGE

Tte sroc< wrLL KEEp FoR uP To 7 oevs tN A SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS REBOILED

FoR A GooD 5 utNures EVERY 2-3 oevs. Tur srocr

I4AY ALSO BE FROZEN - IN USABLE AI4OUNTS AS DESIRED _

FOR UP TO 2 T4ONTHS.


2 lltresl3Z pints/9 cups)

2kg/4'/.lb lamb rib or neck bones

100m1/37,J1 oz/% cup oliue oil

7 large onion, coarsely chopped

3 large carrots, coarseLy chopped

2 celery sticks, coarsely chopped

% whole head garlic, unpeeled

250m1/9JI oz/1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon concentrated tomato purle

1 Bowquet Carni (page 18)

8 litres/ 14 pints nld water

STORAGE

LnMe SrocK wrLL KEEP FoR uP To A wEEK lN A SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS BROUGHT

To rHE BorL FoR A FEw MINUTEs evenv 3-4 olvs. lr vnv

ALSO BE FROZEN _ IN USABLE AMOUNTS AS DESIRED - FOR

UP TO 2 MONTHS.

I8 BUILDING BLOCKS

Chicl<en stockA cooo BASE srocK,AMBER-CoLOURED AND Nor roo srRoNG lN TAsrE'

IN TUT RESTAURANT WE MAKE IT USING THE CARCASSES FROM FRESH

cHTcKENS,BUTYOUCANUSEBONYCHICKENJOINTS,SUCHASWINGS',

INSTEAD. Ir YOUN LOCAL BUTCHER CANNOT OBLIGE, CHINTST TOOO

sToRES ARE A GOOD SOURCE OF THESE JOINTS, SOLD FROZEN lN PACKS'

Tsnw rlem wELL BEFoRE usE.

I Placc rlte rau chicken cJrcrsie\ or joirrL' irr 'r 'ttr' kPor ot'l rrqc sauccpln

and cover r,vith the rvater. Ijring to the boll. skrlrmirlg rve1l r'vith a ladle'

2 Add all the remaining ingredients. nrakrns sure theY are conrpletely

submerged. Return to the boil and sinrnrer gentlr,' ior about 'lz hours,

skimming frequentlY.

3 Strai.n the stock b1, pouri|* tltc ronterlts oithe pan through a muslir-r-

lined colauder set over a larse bo\.] or another large saucep:rn. Discard the

bones, vegetables ar-rd Bor,rquet Garni. cooi the stlained stock, then chill

or freeze until needed.

Brown chicken stocl<Sorne of m-v recipes call for a darker bt'ou'n chicken stock This is achjeved

simply by first brorvning the chicken crrcasses or joints in the oven Preheat

the oven to 200"c/.100"F/Gas Mark (. Roast the chicken clrcasses or:

joints for about 15-20 minutes, turning frequentlH until dark golden

bror,vn. l)rain through a colander then proceed s-ith the recipe above'

Bouquet garni

You cout-o JUST TIE THEsE LEAVES AND sPRIGS lNTo A BUNcH,THEN ross

THESEEDSINTOTHEPOT,BUTWEPREFERTOII4AKETHEMINTOANEATPAR-

cEL. uSE THE ,BUTT'

OF THE LEEK (THE OUTER rWO lenves) AS THE WRAP-

PING AND KITCHEN STRING TO HOLD IT ALL IN PUCC.A BOUQUTT GNRNI

wILLKEEPFREsHFoRsEVERALDAYSIFSToREDINTHEREFR|GERATOR.

I Separate out the outer 2 leaves of the rvhite of the leek and place the

celery, thyme, parslev stalks and bay leaf in the centre Spoon in the pep-

percorns and coriander seeds.

2 Fold in the ends and sides of the leek and roli into a neat parcel.

3 Tie firmly in a nunrber of places.

-E


3 litreslS% pints/l 3 cuPs)

3kg/6',41h raw chicken cdrcdsscs or about the

sdme rueight in bonl' chicken joirtts

e.g. tuings, drumsticks

5 litres/9 pirtts coltl utater

1 celery sticks, rcarselY choPPed

2 leeks, coarsely clLopPed

3 large onions, qudrtered

3 ldrge carrots, rcdrse11, choPPed

'.1 u,hole head garl.ic, un.peeled

1 large sprig tlryme

259/1oz tock salt

STORAGE

THE srocK wlLL KEEP FoR uP To 7 oevs tN A SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS REBOILED

FoRA GooD 5 vtNures evrnv 2-3 DAYS.THE srocK MAY

ALSO BE FROZEN _ IN USABLE AI'4OUNTS AS DESIRED _

FoR uP To 2 volrus.

INGREDIENTS (for I Bouquet Garni)

'butt' oJ 1 large leek

',4 celery stick

1 sprig thyme

few parsley stalks

1 bay leaf

% teaspoon black peppercorns

% teaspootr white PePPercorns

6 coriander seeds

D ressings and sauces

:: THESE DRESSINGS AND SAUCES CAN BE I.1ADE IN LARGER AMOUNTS

-ti:D rN THE REFRtcERnron. lryou HAVE DtFFtcuLTy MEASURING SMALL

.'-) oF LIQUIDS, REMEMBER THAT ONE STANDARD MEASURING TABLE-

. r ABour l5ml, orur DEssERTspooN l0vl,nNo L reaspooN 5vt-.

I

3DenaoeI

":.I) THIS ON PAN.FRIED FISH FILLETS SUCH AS MULLET, BUT IT CAN

, :. .-SED AS AN ALL-PURPOSE FLAVOURING OR AS A DIP FOR CROUTES.

. l.lrcc all the ingredients in a food processor or liquidizer and

: .::r()ut ?-3 minutes.

. :rrro clean screw top glassjars and seal down. Store in the refrig-

.i .rre as required.

-e sto, ,:.,:]E PESTO HASA MUCH CLEANER,FRESHERTASTETHANTHE READY-

" : ,:: ETIES. IT IS EXCELLENTWITH PASTA ORASA GARNISH FOR SOUPS.

:;:t pine kernels, garlic and Parrnesan into a food processor or

.: .rnd pl'ocess until fine1y ground.

I :lc nrotor still running. feed the brsil leaves into the machine

- :.rr tirnnel, then slorvly trickle in the oil. Blend r-rntil smooth and

\:\,rc in clean screrv-top glass jars in the refrigerator.

3asic salad vinaigrette.:;. , NEGAR PROVIDES DEPTH OF FLAVOUR, AND OLIVE OIL BLENDED

-- :..OUNDNUT OIL GIVES A LIGHT CONSISTENCY TO OUR VINAIGRETTE.

: :he r-inesar into a bolvl or jug.Add a good pinch each of salt and

:. .in11. using a whisk, stir untii dissolved.

I ':.: rhc oils and lemon juice then whisk again to fortn a light

.:.'r.Trste for seasoning and use as required. LeftoverVinaigrette can

:'r'ctl in a screw-top glass jar and shaken prior to Llse to

'::i ir :rgain.

BUILDING tsLOC]KS I9

INGREDIENTS (makes enough to fill a

medium glass jar)

200g/7oz/1 cup pitted bldck oliues

40g/1% oz/2 tablespoons anchouies

20g/% oz/',1 cup mpers, rinsed

7 cloue garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon extra-uirgin oliue oil

INGREDIENTS (makes enough to fill a

medium glass jar)

50g/2oz /'l tup pine kernels

50g/2oz garlic cloues, peeled and stalk ends trimmed

50g/2oz /',4 cup -finely grated Parmesan cheese

30g/1lioz basil leaues

125m1/'lJ1 oz/',1 u.tp extra-uirgin oliue oil

INGREDIENTS (makes 350m|/

l2ll ozl lt/z cups)

5)tnl t 2J1 oz / rup sherry t'incgar

250m1/9_fl oz/'l cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

5Oml/2J1 oz/',1 cup groundnut oil

juirc o;f % lemon

sea salt and ground white pepper

n

20 I]UILDING tsLOCKS

Truffle cream vinaigretteOuR nccot.tPANtMENT FoR THE Mosntc or Rngetr wtrH CnssnGE AND

CEees (ence 67), eur EQUALLY sruNNlNG rossED lNro sALAD or Mtxeo

Salno LERvrs (encr 54), on PoURED ovER Hor NEW PorAroEs AND

SIMpLE pOACHeO rtSH.TnUrFLE OIL CAN BE FOUND lN GOOD DELICATESSENS.

I In a borvl orjug,whisk together the oils,vinegar and a good pinch each

of salt and pepper.

2 Lightly whip the cream until it just begins to hold soft peaks, then fold

it into the Vinaigrette. Taste for seasoning and use as required. Leftover

dressing can be stored in a screw-top glass jar.

Sauce viergeA coRrnNoeR AND BASTL DRESSING wHlcH MAKES AN EXCELLENT MATCH

FOR RED MULLET, SCALLOPS OR FRESH PAN-FRIED TUNA.

I Shred the basil and coriander leaves into fine jr-rlienne strips, and crush

the coriander seeds using a pestle and ntortar.

2 Heat the oi1 and lemon juice very gentlv in a srnall saucepan then add

the Shallot Confit, herbs, crushed berries, vinegar and seasoning. Stir

briefly, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse ibr at least 5 and up

to 30 minutes. Serve the sauce warm, at room temperature or chilled.

Sauce antiboiseA clnsstc FnrNcu MeotrERRnruEAN sAUcE wlrH A woNDERFUL FREsH

TASTE TO COMPLEMENT ROASTED FISH OR LAMB, BUT EQUALLY GOOD

TOSSED INTO PASTA AND RICE SALADS OR MIXED INTO HOT NEW POTATOES.

I Dip the tomatoes first into boiling water, then into co1d, and peel their

skins away. Quarter, remove the seeds and cut into very fine dice; set aside.

2 lna heavy-based pan, sweat the shallots and garlic gently in the oil for

about 5 minutes or until softened, but still uncoloured.

3 Meanwhiie, shred the herbs into fine julienne strips. Mix them into the

shallots and leave to infuse off the heat for 5 minutes'

4 Stir in the tomato dice and heat gently. Add the lemon jr-rice and sea-

soning to taste. Serve hot. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for

several days and reheated as necessary.


350mf/l2ll ozl | % cups)

150m1/% pint/% cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

50ml/2J1 oz/% cup groundnut oil

5)ml/2J1 oz/% cup trtffie oil

2 tablespoons sherry uinegar

50ml/2fl oz/'l cup double cream


INGREDIENTS (for 6)

6 basil leaves

5 large coriander leaues

6 coriander seeds

50ml/2-fl oz/%cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

2 tablespoons;fresh lemon juice

t heaped teaspoon Shallot ConJit (page 94)

% teaspoon balsamic uinegar



450mll% pint/l% cups)

3 large tomatoes, weighing a total oJ about

400g / 1 4oz

3 large shallots,Jinely chopped

1 small cloue garlft, crushed

200m1/7J1 oz/'% cup oliue oil

6 basil leaues

6 large coriander leaues

6 sprigs tdrragon

juice o;f % lemon

sea salt and jeshly ground black pepper

RouilleAFnTTcHEGGANDOLIVEo|LSAUCEToSERVESPREADoNRoUNDSoF

FRENCg BREAD, THEN FLOATED IN FISH SOUPS, SUCH AS BOUII.LNBNISSE

wrrH snrrnoru NEW POrnrors (encr ll4).AlrenNnrlvElY,rRY lTWlrH

ROASTED SARDINES OR GRILLED SALMON.

l Boil the potato, then peel and mash it to a smooth pur6e. Set aside

io cool.

2 Peel the hard-boiled eggs, chop them roughly and rub through a metal

rieve using your fingers or the back of a spoon'

3 Put the potato and egg into a bowl with the egg yolks' garlic and

.casoning. Crush the saffron strands into the mixture and blend well'

4 Trickle in the oil very slowly, beating steadily with a wooden spoon

.ri if making a mayonnaise, until you have a thick, glossy sauce Correct the

.easoning and serve'

Red wine sauceA FULL-BODtED SAUCE THAT lS BRILLIANT FOR SERVING NOT JUST WITH

yEAT BUT ALSO WITH 'XrAry' FlsH, sucH As ROASTED MOnrrtsu (encr

| | 3) nruo courrr oF TuNA (encr 107). I orrrN SERVE FlsH wlrH MEAr-

STOCK BASED SAUCES.

I Have ready the Chicken Stock and set aside' In another saucepan boil

:he bottle of wine until it is rich and syrupy and reduced to about enough

:o fil1 one large wine glass.

2 In yet another saucepan, heat the oil and saut6 the shallots together

.,r'ith the five-spice powder, peppercorns! thyrne and bay leaf until

.rramelized - about 10 minutes. Deglaze with the vinegar then pour in

:he red wine'syruP'.

3 Stir in the Chicken Stock, bring to the boil then boil hard for about

lo minutes to reduce by about ha1f, skimming occasionally with a ladle

.rs required.

4 pour this at least twice through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a fine

cloth to remove all the vegetables and herb particles until you have a

.r'r]ooth sauce. Season as required.

BUI LDI NG BLOCKs


3}Omll'/, pint /lt/a cups, enough for 4)

11 potato, weighing about 859/3oz

2 eggs, hard boiled

2 eg4 yolks

2 cloues garlic, crushed

3 pinches o;f sffion strands

200m1/7fl oz/'l cup oliue oil

sea salt and ieshly ground black pepper


400m1/ | 4ll ozl lT, cuPs)

800m1/1 pint 1011 oz/3'l cups Chicken Stock

(page 18)

1 x 75cl bottLe red wine

2 tablespoons oliue oil

8 shallots, sliced

1 teaspoon fue-spice Powdet

12 blatk peppercorns

1 sprig thyme

1 small bay leaf

1 tablespoon sherry uinegar

sea salt and rteshly ground black pepper

22 BUILDING BLOCKS

Jus de fraisesCoNslsrtNc soLELY oF THE PURE JUIcE oF RIPE STRAWBERRIES - wlrH No

ADDEDsUGAR_THIsFRESH-TAST|NGDESSERTSAUcEIsTHEIDEALcoM-

pLEMENT ron cnEme en0lEr oR lcE-cREAMS.

I Place the strawberries in a heatproof bowl. cover with cling film and

set the bowl over a pan of simmering water for 25-30 minutes, or until

the juice has drained ful1y from the fruit.

2 Meanwhile, line a sieve with damp muslin or with a damp, thi'n tea

towel and place over a bowl.

3 Remove the heatproof bowl from the heat and pour its contents

through the sieve. when all the juice has dripped through the sieve,

discard the fruit pulp and chili until required.

Crdme pAtissidreA XNNVTTIOUSLY USEFUL BASE FOR COLD OR HOT RECIPES. UST IT ES N

CREAMF|LL|NGFoRFRU|TTARTSANDFLANSoRASASoUFFLEBASE.

BECIUST A SINGLE BATCH CAN HAVE MULTIPLE USES, IT IS WORTH MAKING

MoRETHANYoUNEED,EsPEcIALLYASITWILLKEEBIFWELLcoVERED'FoR

UP TO A WEEK IN THE REFRIGERATOR.

I Put the milk to boil in a large saucepan.

2 ln a large bow1, whisk together the sugar and egg yoiks until the

mixture is pale. Gradually work in the two flours, mixing well until

the ingredients are blended smoothly.

3 when the milk srarts to boil, pour half of it in a thin stream on to the

yolk mixture, whisking well as you pour.When it is u'e1l blended, whisk

in the remaining hot miik in the same way.

4 Return the mixture to the saucepan and set it over a iow to medium

heat. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for up to 2 minutes until i't

starts to leave the sides of the pan. It should now be smooth and

thick. cool for a few minutes, then spoon back into the bowl. cover

the surface tightly with cling frlm to prevent a skin from fornring.

When cold, use as required.


300rnll% pint /l% cups)

500g/1lb 2oz ripe strawberries, hulled and

sliced


600m1/ | pintl2t/z cuPs)

500m1/1 pint/2% cups milk

759/2% oz/% cup cdster sugar

6 egg yolks

90g/3oz/% cup 2 tablespoons plainJlour

1 dessertspoon cornJTour

MAKING SMALL QUANTITIES:

lr rs unno ro t'tAKE CnEvr PArtsstERE lN VERY SMALL

euANTrrEs. lr n Rectpe cALLs FoR A QUARTER oF THE

AMOUNT GIVEN HERE, MAKE A HALF-QUANTITY AND DIVIDE IT

tNTorwo. lrn necter cALLs FoR oNE-THIRD'THEN USETHE

FOLLOWING AMOUNTS:

200m1/7Jl oz/% cup milk

2 tablespoons cdster sugctr

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons plain flour

1 teasytoon cornJTour

Stock syruP- I:-- FOR A GREAT MANY DESSERT METHODS SUCH AS POACHING FRUIT'

r- \c DRIED FRUIr sucH AS Appt-E Tullrs (encr 184) on PRovlDlNG A

t * : :]R, FRUIT SALADS AND FRUITTERRINES. BTCNUST OF ITS HIGH SUGAR

'.t:\T, Srocr SYnup reeps wELL lN THE REFRIGERAToR FoR AT LEAST

I -:r-rs. lT IS ALWAYS usEFULTo HAVE A BATCH To HAND'

| : :lti \ugar, water and lemon zest into a heavy-based saucepan' Bring

:.. the boil, stlrrlng occasionally'When ai1 the granules of sugar have

.j. boil the syrup for about 5 minutes'

: -. rnd store in the refrigerator in a sealed container until required'

Pite a bombe.: -'lS ASTHE BASE FOR MANY OF MY ICE-CREAMS AS lT PROVIDESTHEM

'- -,GHTNESS AND sTABlLlrY' THE METHoD ls slMlLAR To rHAT usED

. -AKING LEMON CURD - THE INGREDIENTS ARE STIRRED IN A HEAT-

"T::: BOWL SET IN A BAIN-MARIE OF SIMMERING WATER UNTILTHE MIX-

- :: S THICK ENOUGH TO HOLD A WOODEN SPOON UPRIGHT'

i r: ,-, i:rLlcepan of water on to boil' Meanwhile' in a small to medium

, :- :,..rf borvl that will fit inside the saucepan, whisk the yolks, water and

. : .rrtril the ingredients are smoothly blended'

L i. .-:n the water st:Irts to boil, adjust to a simmer and set the bowl

rr :hc saucepan, ensuring that the water level just reaches the height

' : illl\tufe.

'.,k. stirring frequently, for up to one hour or untii the mixture has

...:rcd to the pornt at which you call stand a wooden spoon upright

' :: ientre. During cooking, check the water level from time to tlme

' :.\l it up with more boiling water as necessary'

,::- the heat remove the bowl, allow the mixture to cool slightly then

- :: tl.rrough a fine sieve with the back of a spoon or a ladle Using

.-cctric whisk, beat the mixture until it is cool and has become light

.::lrrttr. U\c as requlreo.

BUILDING BLOCKS 23


1.5 litresl2To Pints/5% cuPs)

5 5 0g / 1',/,lb / 2% cups granulated sugar

'l litrc / 1% pints / 4'l cuPs cold water

grated zest oJ 1 lernort


700m1/l% Pints/3 cuPs)

8 cgq yolks

150m1/% pint/% cuP cold water

2009/7oz/1 cuq caster sugdl

24 BUILDING BLOCKS

MeringueItalian meringueTHIS IS A STABLE TYPE OF MERINGUE WHICH HOLDS ITS VOLUME AFTER

WHISKING, MAKING IT IDEAL FOR USE IN SOUTTIES. TgE SUCNR IS MADE

rNTo A SYRUP, BoILED To rHE HARD BALL srncr (ron wHIcH You wlLL

NEED A SUGAR THERMOMETER), rUrN wHlsKED INTO WHIPPED EGG WHITES.

LtQuto cLUCOSE, AN INERT SUGAR WHICH PREVENTS SUCROSE SUGAR FROI'4

HARDENING, CAN BE BOUGHT FROM CHEMISTS'

I put the suear, glucose and wtter into :i heavy-based saucepan and place

over a gentle heat, stirring occasionallr," until the sugar and glucose have

dissolved.when clear, boil the svrup to the soft ball stage - that is, rvhen

it reaches 116"C/2'+0"F - rvhich takes about 5 nrinutes'

2 Meanr.r,hi1e, in a large mixine bolvl or electric stand tnixer, r,vhisk the

egg r,vhites to the soft peak stage :rnd turn otT the m:rchine. Let the sugar

reach 121.'Cl250"F - the hard ball stage - u,'hrch takes a minLlte or two.

Lnmediately renlove the s,vrup fronl the heat'

3 Tr.rrn the mixer rvith the egg lvhites back on to a slorv speed'

4 Slorvlv pour the sugar syrup dor,vn the side of the borvl into the rvhrtes,

and continue to u.'hisk until tepid. I-Jse as required'

French meringueTI-TIS YTRINCUE NEEDS TO BE USED QUICKLY AS THE SUGAR IS NOT DIS-

soLVED AND so BREAKS DowN wHEN LEFT To srAND' lr ts Qutrr UNLIKE

ITNIIRN MTNINCUT,WHICH IS STABLE BECAUSE IT IS MADE WITH SYRUP.

I Put the egg rvhites rnto a clean, greaselree borvl \vith a pinch of salt and

a pinch of the sugar.

2 Using an electric u,hisk, beat slorvly at first to form a froth then grad-

uallv increase the speed to full por'ver.

3 Beat to firm peak stage making sure the r.r,hites are not overbeaten, drv

or grainy. Slorvlv add the remaining sugar n'hile the beaters are sti1l run-

ning. The mixture should become smooth and gloss1'. Use imrnediately

-r

INGREDIENTS (for about

2 litresl3i% pints/9 cuPs)

3 5 0g / 1 2oz / 1t4 utps cnster su,qar

2 teaspoorts Liquid glucose

100m1/3'/'J1 oz/'y' cup cold water

6 egg whites

NOTE:

lF you Do Nor HAVE AN ELEcrRlc MIXER' Mix rHE EGG

WHITES WITH A BALLOON WHISK TO THE SOFT PEAK STAGE

BEFORE POURING THE SYRUP INTO THE BOWL.


I litrell% pints/42 cuPs)

I egg tuhites

pinch oJ salt

250g/9oz/1% cLtps cdster sugdr

according to recipe requlrerllents

Pastry

Puff pastry-+ -

"G HOMEMADE PUrr Pnsrnv ls QUIrE A REVELATION! lr ts rLn

* ].:q. THAN BOUGHT PASTRY YET STILL LIGHT AND FLAKY WITH A FULL,

I ..:i- TNSTT. ONCE YOU HAVE PRACTISED MAKING IT TWO OR THREE

. -::. - BECOMES SURPR|S|NGLY EASY To Do, AND |T's HARD To TURN

1r -. -C BUYING READY-MADE SUBSTITUTES'

I r, .:l out 450g/11b of the flour into a bowl and mix in the salt'Rr-rb

' ; )oz of the butter until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs'

. ,:r be done rn a food mixer, a food processor or by hand'

I .. I -: :irc vinegar, then trickle in the ice-cold water, mixing with a table

-:::til the insredients come together in a smooth dough'You may not

: .-. the water, or you nlay need a little extra lt is hard to be specifrc'

:: :iris crn be done in a machine or by hand. Knead gently then wrap

:r; fihl-r.

] , .:J the reuaining50g/2oz of the four wi'th the rest of the butter'

:. l.cst done by machine, processing until the mixture is smooth and

' \nrcs together. Spoon the butter mixture out onto a large sheet of

:::lrrr and shape into a rectangle about 14 x2()cn/5/' x Sin"Wrap up

'---:telv in the cling film and chill both the dough and butter packages

' :: rctrigerator for 20 minutes'

| \:r .r lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle

.: ts'ice the srze of the butter mixture (approximately 25 x 35cm/10

-r:i .Try to keep the edges as straight as possible and the corners well

. - -1. Iinecessary, tease the dough into shape'

9 "

-r;c the butter nlxture down the long side of the dough' fold over the

-,:ir to enclose the butter completely then pinch the edges to seal'

6 - )ust off any surplus flour r'vith a dry pastry-brush' then carefully roll

: :he dough in one direction only until it is about three tin'res the

: -:ir. r'naking sure none of the butter breaks thror"rgh'

7 i,.rlcl the dough neatly inro three, bringing the top third down and plac-

: :hc bottom third over it' Give the dough a quarter-turn and roll out

:,:ir. I)ust the board and rolling pin lightly with flour and roll out again to

..rrq rectangle the same size as before, keepi'ng the edges and corners neat'

8 Fold into thirds as before, rvrap in cling fiinr rnd leave to rest in the

-.::igerator for 2tl minutes' IJnwrap, then, with the snrooth' folded edge

: tfre side, ro11 out again into a long rectanele as before'

BUILDIN G I]LOCKS 25

f NGREDIENTS (makes l.2kgl2lb l2oz)

500g/ 1tb 2oz / 3',4 cuPs Plain JTout

good pinch oJ salt

500g/1lb 2oz/4'y' sticks unsalted butter, cut

into chunks

7 teaspoon white wine uinegat

ahout 300m1/% pint/ 1'.'1 cups ice-nld water

A FEW HELPFUL HINTS:

a Tnre rlE BUTTER our oF THE REFRIGERAToR ABour AN

HOUR BEFOREYOU USE IT'

O WUCN ROLLING OUTTHE DOUGH,ALWAYS KEEPTHE EDGES

AS STRAIGHT AS YOU CAN AND THE CORNERS NEAT AND

TRUE, TUGGING THEM GENTLY INTO PLACE IF YOU CAN'T

QUITE MASTER THE ROLLING.

a lT ts |MPoRTANT THAT THE LAYERS oF BUTTER ARE RoLLED

EVENLY INTOTHE DOUGHAND CAREFUL NEAT ROLLING ISTHE

BEST METHOD FOR ENSURING THIS, SO ALWAYS ROLL AND

FoLD rN THE SAME DlREcrloN (ceNennllv BorroM To roP)'

AND GIVE THE DOUGH JUST A QUARTER-TURN EACH TIME'

AGAIN IN THE SAIYE DIRECTION, NORMALLY ANTI-CLOCKWISE'

26 BUILDING BLOCKS

9 Fold again in three, give the dough a quarter-turn, ensuring the folded

edge is still on the same side as before, and repeat the rolling and folding.

Give another quarter-turn and fold into thirds, then fold again immedi-

ately so that you have a double thickness of pastry.W'rap in cling film and

chill again for 20 minutes.

| 0 If making the pastry ahead, you can freeze the dough at this stage, divid-

ing it in halfor quarters according to the recipe. If, however, you intend to

use the dough straight away, then roll it out twice more, rolling, folding and

turning as before. The butter will have been rolled into wafer-thin layers

between the dough; this is what causes it to rise in light, crisp layers. For spe-

cific baking times and temperatures, check each individual recipe.

Rich sweet pastryTuts sweer,vnNtLLA-sCENTED pAsrRy cAN BE MADE tN AN ELEcrRtc MtxER

THEN DIVIDED INTO BATCHES OF 25OG/9OZ OR 5OOG/ILA 2OZ, AN]V

LEFTOVER PASTRY CAN BE FROZEN.

I Mix the butter and sugar in an electric mixer until smooth but

not flufTy. Siit open the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds and add them to

the mixture.

2 Gradually add the eggs, one by one, watching that they don't curdle.

Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the mixture.

3 Sift together the flour and salt in a large bowi.Turn the machine dor,vn

to its lowest speed and spoon in the flour in stages.As soon as the mixture

clings together as a crumbly dough, stop the machine, remove the dough

and knead it lightly by hand to a smooth, round ball.

4 Divide the mixture into batches according to the recipe required.

5 Wrap any leftover pastry in cling film and store in the freezer where

it will keep for several weeks.

INGREDf ENTS (makes 1 kgl2lb 4oz)

2509/9oz/2% stitks unsalted butter, softened dt

rcom temperdture

180g/6oz/% cup cdster sugar

4 vanilla pods

2 x size 2 eggs, beaten

500g/1lb 2oz/3% cups plainJTour

% teaspoon salt

Making fresh pasta

: --r-GH l4ANy oF My REcIPES CALL FoR 200-250c17-9oz pLsrl

-, IT'S EASIER. TIIlEWISE, TO MAKE A COMPLETE BATCH AND USE THE

..]ER TO MAKE YOUR OWN TAGLIATELLE OR CANNELLONI SHEETS.

:AN BE INTERLEAVED WITH FREEZER TISSUE WRAP AND FROZEN.

- :REEZETHE DOUGH IN A BALLAS IT FORI4SA DRY SKIN AND ISTHEN

,-r ro RoLL our. RolltNc our PAsrA ts EAslEsr wlrH A PARTNER.

Pasta dough::r. tlour and.alt Logethcr and place in

:':i)cessor along with the eggs, yolks and oil.

. .intil the mixture starts to come together

.:.r crumbs. Stop the nrachine and press

.rnrount of the mixture together in your

The mixture should not crack, but if it':'\).css it again for a few seconds. Tip the

:, out onto a board and knead well until you

.nrooth, firrn ball of dough. It should feel soft but not sticky. Wrap

rrsir in clir-rg film and ailow to rest for an hour or two.

2 Divide the dough ball into eight equal pieces

and knead each piece again until smooth.Taking a

piece at a time, ro11 out each one in turn with a

roiling pin on a lightly floured board until vou

have a rectangle about 5mm/%in thick.

3-4 Feed each rectangle

ofdough through the pasta

machine several times

.,^--:-- .,,:1L ,L- -,--L)Ldr Lrrrts wrrll

:: .rdjusted to the thickest setting (i.e. with the

::'i \videst apart) and adjusting the setting by

notch each time, finishing with the thinnest

::rg.You are now ready to cut, fill and shape your

:.r. rccording to the individual recipe.

,::,t"' ,,,. "' ,

tortellini

BUILDING BLOCKS 27

INGREDIENTS (makes 8009/llb l2oz)

550g/1lb 4oz/1 cups plainJlour

generous pinch of salt

4 eggs

5 egg yolks

2 tabLespoorts oliue oil

to serue either as

make fresh pasta by

starters or in sowPs.

]:.,:a,.:,i:':'. ::'.': :::,

hand twice a day for ravioli, and tagliatelle

a2B IJUILDING T]LOC]KS

TortelliniI Preparc yor-ir fillillg accorcling to the recipe Ycrr't

s,ill probabh'neecl about hrlf thc'qurntin'of ]r:rstr

Dor-rg1-r rollecl out :rs dcscribed in the b:rsic lecipe'

allorving for sorlle \v:lstf,qe' Pre pat'e sotne cqg rvesl-l

b,v be:rting 1 cgg lolk u'ith a pir-rch oi s:rlt ancl

? teaspoorts of rvater, then set rsicle' Using a 9crn/

3Zin round cutter, st:1111p out :1s lriulv c--ilcles :rs

vou reclnire tortelfini.

,rnci curl the trvo tips of the straight

s'cll to seal.Then tttrn the edges up

tl.re rer.naining clough and filling'

:ffi E 1E2-3Pressrballoffillirlgontoorresic]eofeacl.rp:rstlclisc.Usingapastr:-v_

brr.rsh, brush round the edqes oieach p:rstr disc n'ith the berten eqg rvash'

4.5FolcloVeItornakeaserrli'cit-clc.Irr.esstheedgesrrelltoseal,rrlakirrq

sure thel:e :rre no :rir pockcts ol: teal:s'

5-8 Take e:rch semi-circle in vour hatrcl

cclgc :r,'ttttd )"ttt' itltlcr r'ittg'r" 1'1't"111.

to for"rn :r 'brinr' likc' :r l-rrt l{cpcrt s'ith

BLANCHING PASTA IN ADVANCE

9-10 lllanch hott'renrade pasta in boiline srltecl

r':rtet", :rl1olr'ing ? mintltc-s ior tortellini rtld r:n'ioli'

and 30 seconcls for t:rglirtelle I)r'rirl atrcl itrnlet-se

in ice-colcl Nilter Lrntil colcf i)rain again'Wr:rp in

ciing filrl and chil1 r-rnti1 require c1' Reheat in a ltt-

tle boiltng rvater and butter for 1-2 tnlt'lutes'

Altern:Ltivell'. cook prsta for one lllillLlte longer

than the tir-r'res given above . dr:rin, toss n'ith a 1itt1e

br-rtter atrcl serve imulediatelv'IEL*******

BUILDINC] BLOCKS 29

Tagliatelle' '.'.rre the Pasta Dough (page 27) and ro11 out to the thinnest setting.

.. rllou'the sheets to dry out for about 10 minutes by hanging thern

' :. brcks of clean ch:rirs.

I .: rire sheets lightlv r'vith flour. Fix the special noodle cutters into the

..rihnre. Feed in the first sheet of dough with one hand, using the

: . turlt the handle.As the pasta strands emerge, stop turning at lnter-

:':'.'.rJing the noodles oLtt on the other side to prevent thern sticking.

I :-:r vou've finished clrtting the first sheet, lift up the noodles in one

.:..1 ru irl thettt dorvn inro .t nest on I trJy. Lcrve to drv our [or

' ,rrrinutes.

{ ::-h ,rnd refiesh the tagliatelle (page 28), then continue with the

.::r.r1 recipe.

R,avioli-2 ,':.e!.rrre the filling according to your recipe.

: rlh'. r'ou w-ill need about half thc quantity

.:.r I)ough rolled out to the thinnest setting

'.rr prsta tnachine. lJsing a 1Ocm/4in round

.:. .ut out 2 discs for each ravioli. Press the

.- rnto small balis and place on half the pasta

. lirr-rsh round the edges rvith egg rvash as for

'. .rrrr and place a second disc on top of each.

3 Seal the edges of ti-re pasta

them firrnll' together.You u'il1

dough so that it extends to the

l:-^^ L--.-;.-^L:-^ulrLJ UY PllILrrrr15

need to stretch the

edges, nroulding it

around the fi11ing so there

are 11o alr €iaps or tears.

4 Take a crimpcd ctrtter

onc )i7e sntrllcr thrn thc

rounds, cr.rt the parcels into

neat ravioli, then peel off

- c-\cess dor-rgh from around the edges.

5 lllanch and refresh the ravioli (page 28), then

:rrinue with the individual recipe.

:ii 'r:p if

.::,':: .l1 ,.,ll, i. ,:::ril ;i:|,. rllr

kffi#

p

r .. nt(tking soups at any time of the year - whether to serue hot or chilled.The

''.:t of a good sowp is to excite the palate: certainly, I don't see a soup just as

: tt'r carry a few ltieces of floating debris.

Our soups come in many guises: first as an amuse-gueule maybe

'::t chilled Cucumber Gazpacho (pog, 45), a clear Tomato Consommt (page

..r perhaps a light frothy Coppuccino, serued in tiny espresso cups to tanta-

:ttc tastebwds,Then there are soups fhat resemble light, main meals with lobster

;, or prettily 'turned' uegetables resting in a light Fish Veloutb (page 14).

Euen the simplest of ouy soups bears an enhancing garnish. For exdmple, the

.:. pttrted Broccoli Soup (page 50) has a special touch of baby rauioli; and my

':trite Coppuccino of Haricots Blancs with Morels (pog, 32) is topped with

',:,' delicate shauings o;f trffie.

But the starting point of all my sowps is natural;flauour. For ntany of

a well-rounded stock that has been reduced tottt, this medns beginning with

'.:r'ntrate the essence of flauours.

;J(' 13) so as not to ouerpower

Broccoli Soup, the 'broth' is simply water.

For other soups, I use A lighter Vegetable l{age

the flauour of the main ingredients; and in one,

{AL {

il

Cuppuccino of haricots blancs with morels

32 SOUl'S

A ltcur, FRorHy soup tN wHICH n rtNE puREe oF HARIcor BEANs GtvEs

FLAVOUR AND BODY, WHILE TRUFFLE OIL AND MORELS ADD AROMATIC LUX-

uRv. Tur cAppucctNo-LtKE FRorH ts MADE By wHtsKtNG wtrH A spEctAL

ELEcrRrc Bnvrx (srr pncr 189 ron sueerrrn), ALrHoucH A DoMESTTc

t'4uLTt-BLENDER wtLL GtvE stMtLAR RESULTs. AoolNc tcE-coLD BUTTER ts rHE

SECRET OF PRODUCING A GOOD FROTH FOR CAPPUCCINO SAUCES AND SOUPS,

I Have ready the Chicken Stock or Vegetable Nage. Drarn the soaked

beans and transfer them to a large saucepan. Cover b_v about 5cm/2in with

lighdy salted cold rvater. Add the onion, crrrot :rnd Bouquet Garni, then

bring to the boil.

2 lloil for 10 minutes then lolvel the heat to a sirnnrer and cook for

a further 25-30 minr-rtes or until the beans ale just soft.

3 Using a slotted spoon! relnove about 10{.)g,/3oz of the beans and reserve

for the garnish. Continue cooking the remaincler fbr"a further 10 nrinutes

or until they are very soft.

4 Drain, discard the onion, carrot and Bouquet Garni and blend the beans

to a fine pur6e in a food processor or liquidizer'. For .rbsolute perfection,

rub the pur6e through a sieve with the back of a ladle,but this is not vital.

5 Clcan our rhc sruceprn rnd add either-thc ( hickcrr Stock or rhc

Vegetable Nage. I3oi1 for 5 minutes to reduce the liqr-rid.

6 For tl-re garnish, saut6 the mushrooms brief'l.'in rhe h,rtter rrnril i1151

cooked, then stir in half of the trulfle oil.

7 Using a Banrix or a hand-held electric multi-blender, mix the reduced

stock into the bean pur6e until it is smooth, then rvhisk in the cream and

the remaining truflle oil.

8 Divide the reserved beans and mushrooms between r,varmed soup plates

or cappuccino cups. Check the seasoning of the sor"rp, then reheat to boil-

ing point. Using the Bamix or blender, u'hisk in the ice-cold butter and

f-rnth rrn fhe snrrn__.-'__ *r '__.- '"*r'

9 Distribute the soup over the beans and morels, frothing it up as you

work to prevent it losing its airy rpperrance. Garnish with the fine slices

oI lresh tru[fle ilt using and ccrve instantly.

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

800m1/1 pint 611 oz/3% cups either Chicken Stock

(page 18) or Wgetable Nage (page 13)

250g/9oz/1 cup small white dried haricot beans,

soaked ouernight

1 sntall onion, pceled

1 carrot, peeled

1;fresh Bouquet Carni (page 18)

1009/3%oz/ 1% cups Jresh morels or other wild

mushrooms, sliced iJ large

50g/2oz/% stirk butter plus an extru knob oJ

ice-cold butter _for seruin,q

1-2 teaspoons trulJle oil

150m1/% pint/'/ cup double crcant

a.fewfne slices o;f;fresh trufile (optional)

sea salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

:ii''"' ',::

i:::' ,::':,::.

SOUPS 35

C.ppuccino of roasted langoustine and lentils-r: aor BLANcS,THE LtrrLE BLUE-cREEN FneNcu Puy leNrts pRo-

: : \F LIGHT SOUP AND ALSO MAKE AN INSPIRED MATCH WITH LAN-

-'.:s. SrRve rHrs soup tN sMALL BowLS AND,JUsT BEFoRE sERVtNG,

,' --: soup wrrH A Bnvrx (srr pncE 189 FoR suppltER), on srNil-lR

. - : YULTI-BLENDER, FOR TRUE CAPPUCCINO STYLE.

::'-: lentils well by placing them in a sieve beneath cold running

-,:r,tcr to a saucepan. just cover with cold water then add the

' .':r .rnd Bouquer Garni.

- :.' rhe boil then simmer for about 20 minutes or until quite soft.

' -: .|scard the vegetables and Bouquet Garni. In a food processor

::.'.:r blend the lentils to a fine pur6e, and set aside.

'.r: Lrngoustine or Fish Stock into another saucepan and bring to

.::r rn the lentil pur6e and rehear unril it just srarrs ro rhicken.

:' otherwise the mixture will not froth to a cappuccino later. Stir

. :..r:rr and the truffle oil.

.,-:ri pan, heat the olive oil then saut6 the langoustines for about

':.. turning frequently to colour them all over. Divide them

::r r\'.lrmed soup bowls.

< rhe seasoning, then froth up with a Bamix or similar device,

- :::r diced blltter as you whisk. Pour over the langoustines in the

- ,:nrsh with the parsley or chervil sprigs and serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

150g/5oz/% cup Puy lentils

7 smdll carrot, peeled

% onion, peeled

1 largeJresh Bouquet Carni (page 18)

1 litue/1% pints/4% cups Langoustine Stock

(page 15) or Fish Stock (page 11)

2 teaspoons double creant

1 teaspoon trulfle oil

a lirrle oliue oil,Jor sautieing

72 medium langoustines, shelled and cleaned

259/1oz/',4 stick ice-cold unsalted butter, diced

sprigs of parsley or cheruil


l"i * *i

I

?, # dS .$,&

S' $ :d eg, *: X ;ir

Watercress souP with Poached oysters

36 SOUPS

Aunll-sensoNFAVOUR|TE,WATERCRESSSoUP|sAPOPULARBRtttsuotsu

sERVED Hor lN wlNrER oR LIGHTLY cHILLED lN suMMER' Hrnr' I sERVE lr

HOT AND GIVE IT ATOUCH OF LUXURY WITH POACHED OYSTERS - SO EASY'

SO SIMPLE AND SO CLASSY.

I Trimthe watercress ofits stalks.Discard the stalks. then rvash the ieaves

trvice. Drain lvell'

2 Put the water and salt to boil in one Pan! and heat the oil rn

a second, larger Pan'

3JustastheoilstartstogetVeryhot,careful]l'addthervatetcressleaves

and stir continuousiy as they begin to n'ilt'

4.Whenthewatercresshasreducedbr,abouttrvo_thirdsinvolume,add

the potatoes and stir lvell. Pour rn the boiling sllted r'vater frorn the other

pan. Return to the boi1, then sitr-uner fot 6-l minutes' or until the

potJtoes have toftened.

5 Transfer the vegetables and liquid to r foocl processor or liquidizer and

blend to a smooth pur6e. Pass the pur6e through a sieve using the back

of a ladle. If cooking ahead' cool dorvn the pur6e as quicklv as possible

by standing the pan in a borvl of iced u'ater'This helps preserve the colour

of rhc soup.

5 Just prior to servlng, prise open the oysters using an oyster knife or one

with a rigid, short, sharp blade (right) Save their juices and drain rnto a

smal1 saucepan. Bring the juices to a gentle boil' then add the oysters tlnd

poach for just 5 seconds so they ate iightly cooked'

7 Return the soup pur6e to the saucepan and bring back to the

boil. Place an oyster in each r'varmed soup plate Add the oyster

juices to the soup, check the seasoning and pour the sor-rp over the

oysters. Serve immediatelY.

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

8009 / 1lb 7 2oz watercress

1 litre / 1% pints / 4% cups cold uater

1 tablespoon salt


150g/5oz potatoes, thinlY slircd

b tttediutn I() /d,Qa o)'i/e,:'

jeshly ground black PePPer

OPENING AN OYSTER

Usr oNrv oYsrERs rHAT ARE TIGHTLY SHUT As rHls MEANS

THEy ARE srlLl FRESH. Horo rur oYsrER FIRMLY wlrH lrs

FLAT SHELL UPPERIYOST AND WRAPPED IN A THICK TEA TOWEL

To pREVENT sLlPPlNG. Ustruc e sPEclAL oYsrER KNIFE oR

SHORT, FIRI4-BLADED KNIFE, INSERT THE POINT BETWEEN THE

Two sHELLs NEXT To rHE HINGE. Twtsr rle KNIFE UNTIL

THE HINGE BREAKS AND YOU CAN PRISE APART THE SHELLS'

lvreotr'rerv sllcE THRoUGH THE llusclE ATTAcHING THE

OYSTER TO THE SHELL AND FLIP THE FLESH OUT ONTO A PAPER

TowEL.TlP THE JUlcEs FRoM THE SHELLS lNTo A sflALL cuP

AND RESERVE FOR LATER USE.

Soupe de poissons provengale

* '-:; SOUP THAN BOUILLABAISSE' THIS CLASSIC SOUP FROM THE

:' Fq.eNcE sEEMS To BE MADE ALL ovER EuRopE WHEREVER lr ls

. 1 i _3 BUY A GOOD VARIETY OF SMALL MEO TNRNNEAN FISH.

--i SECRET OF THIS SOUP lS TO USE AS MANY DIFFERENT FISH AS

." : \D. YOU WILL NEED A STRONG FOOD PROCESSOR FOR THIS

!..,.= WITH FRESHLY VNOE CROOTONS (I LOVE LOTS OF CROU-

-:-:f"1ADE Routllr (ence 2l) nxo PLENTY or GRuvER.e cHEESE.

: : !-tERMAN'S SOUB SO EAT IT WITH GUSTO.

-.:'.rre the fish. Remove and discard the eyes and gi1ls (these rvi1l

::.1: t:rste bitter) but leave the bones, then chop into smal1 pieces'

I ::-' \.rlrcepan, heat one-third of the oil, then saut6 the oniorr,

: - lSouquet Garni and satTron.

I r:,.:. in a large frying pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the fish

. -' 'irt 7 minutes or until they are golden. Drain through a colan-

, .. r:.1 the oil.

| - :l.h to the saucepan, then deglaze with the Cognac.'When the

' :.'.luced, add the wine and simmer briskly until the liquid has

i:.!)r.rt one tablespoon.

t r::\)nr:rtoes, water, basil and parsley stalks. Bring to the boil

::: tirr ?5 minutes, skimming off any froth with a ladle every

| :.:J .ontents of the pan through a colander set over a large bowl'

' r- .:r.rined liquor. Reserve the fish and vegetables in the colander'

.: ::rc garlic and Bor-rquet Garni. Pr-rr6e the fish and vegetables

:.'.,.'l processor, thinning the pur6e rvith a little of the reserved

::-.:liClOth.

| ' r- i.rck of a ladle rub the pur6e through a fine sieve set over a

::',:n stir in the reserved liquor. Check the seasoning. Set aside

. :':.p:rre the garnish of Rouilie (page 21) and crottons.

I '. ..iv the Roui1le. For the croitons, slice the baguette very thinly

r. :ir in hot oil, turning once until golden brown and crisp, or

,. ..ren preheated to about 180'c/350"F/Gas Mark'1 and toast for

:-l r nrinutes.

i : l.rtirre serving, reheat the soup gently while yor-r spread the

. .'. rth Ror-rille. Ladle the soup into large, rvarmed bowls, float

:: ':r\ on top and sprinkle over the grated Gruydre.

SOUPS 37

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1kg/2lb loz smdll Mediterranedn.fkh, chosen

from wrasse, rockfish, gurnard, tascdssq conger

eel, Jolm Dory, monkfish or dorade

100m1/3'/,J1 oz/% cup oliue oil

150g/5oz onitttt, rcarsely chopped

1 uhole head garlic, split in lulf

1009 / 3%oz .fennel, coarsely chopped

1 Bouquet Carni (page 18)

1 tedspoon sffion strands

3 tablespoons Cognac

3 tablespoons white wine

2009/7oz ripe tomatoes, choPPed

'1 litrc/1% pints/4% cups cold water

.feut stalks oJ basil

-few stalks of pdrsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH:

1 x quantitl Rouille (page 21)

I snnll, thin bapttnc l,,aJ

oil for Jtying (optional)

1509/ 5oz Gruyirc cheese, grated

38 SOUPS

Fr I llKed mullet souP

FResr Reo MULLET (noucrr) rs BEcoMTNG rNcREAstNGLy popuLAR rN THE

UK, Nor oNLy FoR rrs vtBRANT sKrN colouR, BUT ALSo FoR rrs FrNE

FLAVOUR AND TENDER, FLAKY TEXTURE. IT MAKES A GOOD SOUP AND, IN

THE RESTAURANT, WE SERVE IT WITH LITTLE TORTELLINI STUFFED WITH A

FTLLtNG MADE FRoM THE FrsH t-lveR. Buv wHoLE FrsH, UNGUTTED AND

DESCALED, AND ASK YOUR FISHMONGER TO FILLET THEI.1, SAVING THE HEADS

AND BONES FOR THE BASE OF THE SOUP.

I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.'Wash the red mullet fi11ets,

heads and bones in cold water. Pat dry s-ith kitchen paper towels then

remove any pin bones with tweezers.

2 Sprinkle the fillets with the satTron and cavenne. cover rvith cling film

and set aside in a cool place or refrigerrtor to marinate for about 2 hours.

3 Saut6 the fish heads and bones rvrth a 1itt1e of the oil in a larse

saucepan, for about 5 minutes or until golden bror,vn.

4 Add the vegetables and tomato and cook for a further 5 minutes or

so. Stir in the Pernod and cook until it has evaporated.

5 Pour in the Fish Stock so as to cover the contents of the pan.

Bring slowly to the boil. Turn down to a gentle simmer and cook for

30 minutes.

6 Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or liquidizer and

blend until smooth. Strain first through a fine sieve, then through a

colander lined with wet muslin or clean fine cloth; this thorough straining

will give you a good clear soup. Set aside.

7 Blanch the julienne of carrot and courgette in lightly salted boiling

water, then drailr and chill in ice-cold water. Drain again and set aside,

8 When you are aimost ready to serve, pan fry the fillets of red

mullet, skin-side down, in a little more olive oil for about 2 minutes

or until golden bror'vn; then flip over carefully and cook the other side

forjust 30 seconds.

9 Return the soup to the pan and reheat until just boiling. Season with

lemon juice, salt and pepper. Place the fried fillets of red mullet in the

bottom of each soup plate and slor,vly pour over the hot, clear soup.

Garnish with the julienne of carrot and courgette and serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14)

4 small red mullets, edch weighing about

1259/402, prepared into.fillets but with

heads and bones reserued

2 pinches oJ sffion strands

1 pinch o;f cayenne pepper

a Iirtle oliuc oil,Jor sauteeing

2 shallots, sliced

% hedd celery, roughly chopped

1 medium bulb fennel, roughly chopped


'l00g / 3%oz tomdtoes, chopped

1 teaspoon Pernod

d little lenton juice

sea salt and;freshly ground white pepper

TO GARNISH:

1 small carrot, cut into -fine julienne strips

1 small courgette, cut into fne julienne strips

XX *l x :*sx :ss. X X *: g s ep $,$ 3s

Pumpl<in soup with roasted scallops

4O SOUPS

WleN pUMpKINS ARE tN sEAsoN THts ts A GLoRtous soup ro f4AKE FoR

A sf4ALL cRowD. Eve N wurN THEy ARE Nor ARoUND tN GREENGRocERS'

SHOPS, PUMPKINS CAN OFTEN BE TRACKED DOWN IN ETHNIC FOOD

sroRES oR rN Wesr lNornru MARKETS. loeLLLy, MAKE THrs soup

wtrH Ftst-t Srocr, wHtcH GoES wELL wtrH THE GARNtsH oF

scALLops. Orre Rwrse CrrcrceN Srocr (encr l8) oR Vrcerlsre

Nlcr (encr l3) wrrr BE FrNE.

I Have r:ead-v the Fish Stock and set aside. Qu.u'tcr thc punrpkrn, pcel it

and renrove all the seeds. Clhop the flesh into 1cm/Zin dice.

2 Irr .r lrrgc '.rrrccp.rrr. helr hrlf tlrc oil rhcn stil in rlre rlir'ed purrrpkin.

stirrinq r.r,-e11 to coat. Cover and srveat the l'lesh gently for about 10-12

minutes or until it starts to soften and takes on a golden colour.

3 Pour in the Fish Stock, bring to the boil then sirnnrer lor a iurther

l-5 minures. stirrins occasionalir,-. Acld the Parmesan and cook for a' " "t.-

further 5 minutes. Remor,-e fi-onr the heat.

4 In a food processor or iiquidizer. biend the contents of the pan

to a pur6e. Pass the pr.rl6e through a fine sieve sct or-cl thc par, rr.rbbing

rvith the back of a ladle or u,-ooden spoon until r'er,v snrooth and silkri Ifit looks a little thick, add nrore stock or w:rter to thin it dor,vn a little.Taste

and adjust seasoning.

5 Blanch the spinach quickly in a little boiling s-atcr thcn druin rvell,

1.1.'.'irrn the leave' drr irt l.lc.Lrr tc.r fot|cl.r_.- __'b

5 Heat the remaining oi1 in a 1arge, heavy-based frving pan and 'roast'

the scallops fbr about 2 nrirrutes on each side or uutil thel- have plcntv

of colour. Ilenrove from tl're pan and split each sc:llop ir hrlf rvith a

sharp knife.

7 Divide the scallops rrd spinach leaves betrveen e:rch soup bolvl. Reheat

the soup. gr-rdtralll 'tirri:rS in rhc burrer rnJ crcant..r:ttl r.Lstr'orttc .rglin

for seasoning.

8 When the soup is on the point of boiling, ladle it over the scallops and

splnach, then sprinkle over the chervil. Serve imnrediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 8)

1 litre/1% pirtts/4'y' cups l:ish Stock (page 1!1 x 2.5kg/5%llt pumpkin

5 )nl / 2Jl oz / % cup oliue oil

8 59/ -)oz Parmesan checse, freshly grated

1009/3',40: baby spinach leaucs

8 snllops, shelled, rrimnted dnd washed (balou)

25g/'1oz /'l stick butrer

100n1 / 3'/.fl o: /% cup double creatn

1 tablespoon chopped cheruil

sed strlt and .l)'eshly ground black pepper

OPENING A SCALLOP

Horo rle scALLop FtRtlLy wRAppED tN A THtcK TEA TowEL

To PREVENT sLtpptNG. UstNG A sHoRT, FtRl'1-BLADED KNtFE,

iNSERT THE POINT BETWEEN THE TWO SHELLS AND PRISE THEIY

nplRt. DtsclRo rHE Top slgrl. Srtor rHE KNTFE BENEATH

THE MUSCLE TO SEVER IT AND DISCARD THE BOTTOIY SHELL.

Purr nwny rnr FRTLLv tyEMBRANE AND THE BLACK tNTEslNE.

DrscnRo rHE oRANGE-pINK coRAL oR usE THts ro I'.1AKE

CoRnr Poworn (ence 56). Wl,sr rHE scALLop I,1EAT,

COVER WITH CLING FILM AND CHILL UNTIL REQUIRED.

!t ussel soup with red peppers

":REASING NUMBER OF MUSSEL BEDS NOW AROUND THE

,E.lnope, rr rs possrBLE To BUy FREsH tyussELs ALtlosr. , -\D.Trrs rs A REALLy DELrctous LtcHT, cLEAR soup ro sERVE

': :'rlLLY MONTHS OF WINTER OR CHILLED lN THE WARMER,

. tr.S OF SUI.4MER.

:lt Frsh Stock and set aside.

':.,i\\cls three times in cold r,vater, scrubbing if necessary to

. ,:-Js. Heat a large pan and, r,r,'hen hot, add all the rnussels,

: ::r.' u'ine and the Bouquet Garni. Cover and give the p:rn .r

',,k. turning the mussels once, r-rntil their shells have opened

::.::rr. Discald any that renrain closed.

::: rhe heat and drain through a colander, reserving the liquor

: .. r' .rbout 500m1/18fl oz,/2 cups). Pick the mussels from the

:- .rbout one-third of the mussels for the garnish and discard

: ,:''lc :aucepan, heat the oi1 and sweat the shailots, celer,v, ieek,

: .:.' until lightly coloured, about 5J minutes.

::..rls not being used for the garnish, together lvith the torna-

.. :,'r' .r [trr-thc; -{ lpiprrre. f-).-] ',e " irh rh,' r'crrr,riling ryirre.

' ::.luced bv half.

, . rtlron, Pernod, 1,.4 Iitres/2% pints/(r cups of the Fish Stock

: -'.i nrussel liquor. Bring to the boil then turn down the heat

: ,: l5-18 rlinutes.

: :':'!)cessor or liquidizer, blend the ingredients to r puree. then

, ;lrre sreve rvith the back of a ladle. Set aside.

-.:'rri.h. cook the diced peppers in a little salted boiling rvater

::r:iiLrtes then drain. Reheat the reserved rnussels in the remain-

' . .' .rncl dllin.'r-' \oup until it is just approaching the boi1, then stir in

::.i .r$nst the seasoning. Place the reserved r,vhole mussels and

.:. rn the bottom of r,varmed soup borvls. Pour over the soup and

..::.rtc]r'.

SOUPS 4I

INGREDIENTS (for 4-5)

1.5 litres/2% pints/5% cups Fkh Sto& (pdge 14)

2kg/4%1b.fl'esh mussels, shelk tightly closed

200m1/7.11 oz/l cup dry white win.e

7 Bottrluct Carni (page 18)


2 *allots, coarscly thsppgd

1 celery stick, &opped

1 leek, whitc only, sliced

2 cloues garlic, unpeeled dnd crushed

1 large potato, weighing about 2509/802, peeled

and chopped

1 tomatoes, chopped

good pinch of salJion

1 tablespoon Pemod

100m1 /37.f1 oz/'.4 nry double ueant

sea sdlt and Jieshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH:

1009/ 3%oz red pepper,.finely diced

1009 / 3 %oz yelktw peppu, -fine\ diced

11l.

i:

;

r*pbster soup with summer

:'.] YY HOLIDAYS IN THE SOUTU OT FRRNCE, NOT ONLY TO

- :.:O TO GAIN INSPIRATION FROM THE LOCAL CUISINT.TUIS

":.:.\T STYLE OF LOBSTER BISQUE - ALMOST A MAIN MEAL -: - :riv^vi tN THE FRe Ncu Mrotre RnnNenN. lt ts BEsr SERVED

::... ON N SUIIMEN'S ONY.AS YOU WILL NEED TO BUY FOUR

- j ;a.oBABLY BEST-SUITED TO A SPECIAL MEAL. lF YOU PREFER

: -CBSTERS READY COOKED, THEY WILL NOT NEED TO BE

--. Counr-goutLLoN (sreP 4).

: :. Lobster Stock, the Court-bouillon and the Basic Salad

:- .lou'n the Lobster Stock until it has reduced by

..'..Lrr 350rn1,/12fl. oz/1% ctps. Stir in the cream and the

\.:rion and set aside, leavi.ng the herbs to infuse in the

',\ ircn cold, strain through a fine sieve and chill the soup.

:'..rcc all the vegetables, except the girolles, in a large pan

: ',\.rter. Cover and blanch for 3 minutes. Drain well and

\.rledVinaigrette while still warm. Leave to cool.

-::',,lles in the butter for 2 minr-rtes or so, then mlr in a

:: -jr.rice. Set aside to cool.

' : or- large saucepan, bring the Cor-rrt-bouilion to the

l.'fdr-s and cook them for 5-6 minutes. Leave to cool in

-.:r volr are ready to serve, remove the lobsters fi-onl the

'.::r' in half and scoop olrt the flesh lrom the body and

, rn s'hole pieces.

lrqhtlv chilled lobster soup betrveen large, wide

:.r the iobster meat and place in a ring in the centre of

::rr.h round the outside with the reserved vegetables and

. .rnd tarragon.

SOUPS 43

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1 litre/1% ltints/,1'./, cups Lobster Sro&, ntddc by

followinq the redpe -for LangLtustine Stotk

(pdge 15) and substitutins lohster sltells

dbout 3 litrcs/5 pints Court-bouillon (page 15)

100m1 /3'/,fl oz/'y' atp Basit Sdlad [/inaigrette

(page 19)

100m1/ 3'/tfl oz / % cup double crearn

1 teaspoon each o-f chopped tarragon arLd basil

100g/3%oz baby carrots, lighth' 5;v6psi1

100g/3%oz baby leeks, outer leaues peeled

100g/3%oz/% cup broad beans, podded (thawed

i;f jozen)

100g/3%oz/% cup petits pois (thaued i;f i'ozen)

100g/3%oz baby onions, peeled

50g/2oz Jresh girolles, lightly peeled

a littLe butter,-for sautteing

squeeze of lemon juice

1 liue baby lobsters, each weighing 350-5009/

1 2-1 6oz

sea salt and freshly ground blnck pepper

TO GARNISH:

spri.qs o.f _flatJeaf parsley and tarragon

vegetabl es

,:ii.,,l-.: aal:

,::: ::i:iil.

,ii,-:::t,

{t

44 SOUPS

Oyster and scallop sou p

Sor,rerrmrs, rNsrEAD oF suBMERGtNG TNGREDTENTS tN souB I LIKE To

LIFT THEM UP ON THE PLATE - HERE WITH A I'4OUND OF HOMEMADE

Tnclrnterre - so rHEy RETAIN THETR SEPARATE FLAVoURS, wlrH THE

LreuoR sERVED As A LTGHT sAUcE. lN rHE AuaenGtNE,wE sERVE THls souP

WITH A GARNISH OF CAVIAR.

I Have ready the Fish Stock, the Fish Velor-rt6 :ind the homemade

Tagliatelle if using, and set aside.

2 Cut the cucumber into 5cm./2in lengths. Stand each picce upright and

slice offthe four edges around the seeds. Discard the square seed-block in

the centre. Cr-rt each slice into thin juliennc strips and set aside.

3 Poach the cucumber in a little Fish Stock - just enough to cover - for

about 3 minLrtes. Drain and keep rvarnr.

4 Ir-r a 1arge. heavy-based saucepan, bring the renraining Fish Stock and

the FishVelor,rt6 to the boil.Add the reserved oyster juice.Turn dorvu to

a very gentle sirlmer ancl poach the oysters for about 30 secortds.Add the

scallops and cook for a further 30 seconds.Add the lemon juice, the chives

and seasoning to taste; set aside in a u'arm place.

5 Cook the homenrade Tagliatelle in a little boiling r.vater rvith the

butter added until just tender, about 2-3 nrinutcs. If you are using fresh

ready-made pasta, follou' the pack instructions. Drain, and lift r"rp a

quarter ofthe pasta onto a fork and roll irrto a spiral.

6 Push the spiral off the fork into the centre of a 1arge, u'arnred

soup borvl, theu pur sorrre cuculnber strips on top. I\epeat u''ith the

other bor,vls.

7 Using a slotted spoon, rerlove the oysters and scallops from their

poaching liquid and arrange them neatlv rround the pasta. Bring the soup

back to the boil, spoon it over the shellfisl-r and serve irnnrediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

150m1/% pint/% cup Flslr Sro,:ft plus d little exn'd

Jbr podching @age 14)

250m1/9J1 oz/1 cup FishWloutt (page 11)

1 00g / j %oz homemdde Thgliatelb (page 2 9)

or _fi'e sh ready-made

'/ cltcumber, peelcd

1 lnrge oysters, rentoued -from their shells, juices

reserued (pdge 36)

2 large scdllops, shelled, trinnned dnd washtd

(page 40)

.iuice o,f % lemon

2 teaspoons _finely chopped chnes

knob o_f butter

sed sdlt and.fi'eshly ground black pcppar

46 SOUPS

Cucumber gazpacho

Orue oF ouR Mosr popuLAR soups. WE sEnve rHts cHtLLED, AS

AN AMUSE-6UEULE' lN SMALL DEtllrAssE cuPS BEFORE THE srART oF A MEAL.

lr ts nlso GooD sERVED rN LARGER poRTroNS AccoMpANrED By A LrrrLE

cAVrAR, PRAWNS oR cooKED, FLAKED cRne. THe MAIN FLAVoUR oF

THE CUCUMBER IS ACCENTUATED BY THE INCLUSION OF HORSERADISH.

FResH HoRsrRADrsH cAN BE FouND rN soME spEcrALrry cREENGRocERS

oR you cAN GRow youR owN. you wtll NEED To srART MAKTNG

THIS SOUP A DAY AHEAD,

I Have ready the Vegetable Nage and set aside.

2 Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthways and scoop our the seeds witha teaspoon. chop half of the cucumber into fine dice for the garnish; cover

and set aside in the refrigerator.

3 cut the remaining cucumber half into thin slices, then marinate for2'[ hours in a large bowl with thevegetable Nage, cream, fresh horserad-

ish or horseradish relish and half the herbs.

4 ln a food processor or liquidizer, pur6e the mixture until smooth(you may have to do this in rwo batches), then pass the pur6e througha fine sieve set over a large bowl, rubbing with the back of a ladle orwooden spoon.

5 whisk about a cupful of the pur6e into the mascarpone until it becomes

smooth, then blend rvith the rest of the cucumber pur6e. Adjust the sea-

soning, adding a good squeeze of lemonluice. Stir in the creamed horse-radish. Chill the soup for at least 6-8 hours before eating.

5 Serve the soup garnished with the reserved diced cucumber and

the remainine herbs.


300m1/% pint/1% cups Wgetable Nage (page 13) .

1 whole cucumbers

200m1/7JI oz/% cup double cream

100g/3%oz grated;fresh horseradish or about

3 tablespoons horseradish relish

2 tablespoons each of chopped basil, tarragon, cheruil

and chiues

150g/5oz/% cup mascarpone cheese


2 tablespoons creamed horseradish


lout6 of artichokes with foie gras

:.: GLOBE ARTICHOKE IS EXTREMELY VERSATILE. Iru PNNIS INTC

. :) BRAISED WITH PHEASANT LEGS, AND THEY ARE PARTICULARLY

,: . if, WrrH A sAUTE oF MUsHRoovs. HrnE I Hnve re,rrN A Rusrlc

. i .r\D ADDED THE SOPHISTICATION OF FOIE GRAS AND RAVIOLI OF

- ':.r ooN't FEEL LIKE MAKING RAVloLl (srees 5-6) rHEN SIMPLY

' .',:rH slrcED, snurEeo MUsHRooMs. VecrtnRtlNs cAN usE

.:-. NncE TNSTEAD or Cutcreru Srocr,AND oMlrrHE FolE GRAs.

,.i the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage and set aside.

': :irc stalks and pul1 a1l the leaves from the artichokes, trimming

. .-l.rokes and hearts. Remove and discard the hairy chokes then

. .:ts. Drop the slices into a bowl of cold water with the lemon

.: io stop them from turning brown.'When you are ready to

,:::rhokes, drain them well and pat dry.

'-: ..[lcepxn,heat the oil and gently saut6 the artichoke slices and

:.:l.rer with the Bouquet Garni, until the vegetables are golden

:.. caramelize - about 8-10 minutes.

-' :ire pan with the white wine and, when it has evaporated, pour

.{L'n Stock orVegetable Nage. Bring to the boil, then simmer

- lninutes. Remove and discard the Bouquet Garni. In a food

' : lrquidizer, blend the mixture to a pur6e, then rub it though a

'.::h the back of a lad1e; set aside to cool.

. r: r.rvioli. Cut 6 slices of cdpes, or mushrooms of your choice,

::::.h and finely chop the remainder. Melt the butter in a frying

:::c slices quickly, remove from the pan and reserve. Add the

--:.\ or mushrooms to the pan and saut6 until softened, about 5

\ -:ion rvell, mix in the chervil, drain, cool and chill. Shape the

: :.- (r balls and set aside.

.: :ire pasta to the thinnest setting on a pasta machine.To make the

' ,.rr m,elve 9cn/3'/zin circles and enclose a ball of fi11ing in each

- ,.'.. LJse the beaten egg wash to ensure the edges are well sealed.

:.:hod see page 29.) Blanch and refresh in iced water (page 28).

: J. reheat the soup and stir in the foie gras and cream until

:..'k the seasoning.

: :rc ravioli in a pan with a little water and the knob of butter.

. .rr into warmed bowls, place a ravioli in the centre of each and

::ir the sliced cdpes or mushrooms.

SOUPS 47

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

800m1/1 pint 5Jl oz/3% cups Chicken Stock

(page 18) orVegetable Nage (page 13)

5 large globe artichokes

juice of % lemon

50ml/2J1 oz/% cup oliue oil

100g/ 3%oz shallots,Jinely slircd

7 Bouquet Garni (page 18)

2 tablespoons white wine

20g/%oz -foie gras,Jresh or canned

100m1/31/'Jl oz/% cup double cream


FORTHE RAVIOLI:

150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)

150g/ 5oz fresh cipes or a mixture of brown

mushrooms, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms

50g/2oz/% stick butter plus a knobJor reheating

2 teaspoons chopped cheruil

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch of salt and

2 teaspoons water

t

*omato consomm6 with little basil ravioli

.,:_CES ARE RIPE, FULL-FLAVOURED AND PLENTIFUL, WE SERVE

' '1ETTY SOUP HOT WITH TINY BASIL-FLAVOURED RAVIOLI

'. -iE cLEAR, BRtcHT lreuto.Wr rHEN GARNtSH wtrH JULTENNE

'_:J DES MORT5 MUSHROOMS AND TOYNTO CONCNSSE. YOU

::i/E THIS coNsoMME cHILLED, oMITTING THE RAVIoLI, AND

.', rH FINELy otcto VozzARELLA. I'r_l exptntu How ro MAKE

' : {vroLr ANywAy (srees 7-8), BEcAUSE THEy ARE A GooD usE

,, PesrA DoucH.

:r.n'r--based saucepan, sweat the shallots in the oil over a very' ,:.otit 5-6 minutes until they just begin to colour.

- ilb 12oz of the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes.

-.:.rc. salt, sugar and chopped herbs.

rr \\'.rter and bring to the boil. Skim to clear the surface using

, ,,r- ladle, then simmer gently for about 15 minutes.

.rrrder with a large piece of wet muslin or a clean, old tea

',:.1 it over a large pan. Pour the liquid through the colander,

, :: on the vegetables with the back of a ladle to exrract as

. .,' possible. Discard the vegetables and chi1l the iiquor. :..r'sible by standing the pan in a sink of iced water.'Wash the

.. I.iter.

::rc renraining tomatoes with the basil and tarragon stalks, egg

: -',rlrercorns in a food processor, then add to the pan contain-

1 it)nttto liquor.

. :hc liquor, bring it slowly to the boi1, then simmer for about

..:rril the stock becomes clear. Line the colander again with the

,\r tea towel over a large bowl or container; carefully ladle

, 'rock. Cool down the consomm6 again as quickly as possible.

: rl.rc basil ravioli for the hot version, have ready the home-

.)or-rqh. Pur6e the basil leaves with just a touch of olive oil to..i.iirg a food processor or a pestle and mortar. Spoon this paste

; L.:rq fitted with a plain 5rnn/'/rin nozzle. Place the bag in the

:o chi11.

:irr ,:r:il:.li i];.

SOUPS 49

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

2 Iarge shallots,J:inely chopped

50mI/2Jl oz/% cup olive oil plus extra to sautt

the mushrooms

1kg/2lb 4oz dark red, almost ouer-ripe,

tomdtoes, coarsely chopped

2 cloues garlic, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon each sea salt and sugar

1 teaspoon each chopped basil, tarragon

and cheruil

1 litre / 1% pints / 1% cups cold water

stalks o;f basil and tarragon

4 egg uthites

6 white peppercorns

5 black peppercorns

FORTHE RAVTOLt (OPT|ONAL):

100g/3%oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)

50g/2oz basil leaues

a little oliue oil, to rnoisten

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch o;f salt and

2 teaspoons water

TO GARNISH:

50g/2oz/% crp trompettes des morts or oyster

mushrooms, cut into jne julienne strips

100g/j%oz/% cupTomato Concasse (page 97)

1 tablespoon small whole basil, tarragon and

cheruil leaues

50 SOUPS

I Roll out the Pasta Dough as thinly as possible (steps 2-3, page 27). Pipe

dots of the basil paste - to the size of chocolate drops - at 3cm/ I%rn inter-

va1s, so that the dots form neat, lengthways rows down one half of the

pasta sheet. A1low about 8 ravioli per portion.

9 Brush in between the dots carefully r.vith the beaten egg wash. Fold

over the unglazed half of the sheet and press together the rows of ravioli

with your fingers around the dots of fi1ling. IJsing the end of a plain

2cm/%in piping nozzle as a clltter, cut out as many ravioli as you can'

| 0 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the ravioli for just

10 seconds. Plunge into cold water to arresr their cooking, then drain and

set aside.

| | Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and saut6 the mushrooms until

softened. Pat dry with kitchen paper towels.

l2 To serve hot, reheat the consomm6 and add the ravioli if you have

made them. Spoon into warrned soup bowls and garnish with the julienne

of mushrooms,Tomato Concasse and herbs.

| 3 To serve chi1led, without the ravioli, chill the saut6ed mushrooms

briefly, and serve as a garnish together with the Tomato Concasse and

the herbs.

Broccoli soup with little goat's

Tge soup TNGREDTENTS MAY LooK DISAPPoINTINGLY BLAND - BRoccoll'

WATER, SALT AND A LITTLE CREAM - BUT IT IS THE TECHNIQUE THAT MAKES

THIS VIBRANT GREEN SOUP SO SUBLIME; AND IT IS REASSURINGLY SIMPLE'

Fon n cnnrutsH, MAKE EtTHER A Hosr oF BABY RAVIoLl FILLED wlrH Dors

oF cREAMED GOAT'S CHEESE (Srees 6-9 AND I l) On, rOn A SIMPLER GAR-

NrsH, MAKE QUENELLES (enCr 173) rnom THE GOAr'S CHEESE MlxruRE

AND FLOAT THESE ON TOP OF THE HOT SOUP. EITHER WAY,THE PALE GAR-

NISH LOOKS GOOD AGAINST THE COLOURFUL SOUP.

I Trim the florets from the broccoli heads. This is very important - you

should have virtually no stalks attached, just the Iast 2crn//in or so. The

finished weight of florets should be around 8009/llb 1'2o2.

2 Bring the water to a rolling boil with the salt. Add the florets and cook

for 10 minutes.

cheese ravioli

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

2kg / 4%lb broccoli heads

1,5 litres / 2% pints / 6% cups cold water

4 teaspoons sea salt

120m1/4fl oz/% cup 1 tablespoon double

freshly ground black pepper

FORTHE RAVIOLI:

150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)

75g/3oz soJt goat's cheese, e.g. crottin

2 tablespoons mascarpone cheese

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch of salt and

2 teaspoons water

SOUPS 5I

t

li

al

w1

.:'ut reserve the water.This is vital! Return the florets to the pan

: :.rr )-3 minutes to dry them out, shaking the pan frequently'

. :. .lll lmporfant stJge.

: :irc tlorets in a food processor or liquidizer, adding a ladleful of

- , :J cooking water at a time, and stopping the machine once or

';r.rpe down the sides. Continue until you have a rea1ly silky,

.:.:rtlingly bright green pur6e.You may find this easiest to do in

-:r three batches. The pur6e should be the texture of soft, runny

::: .r glossy sheen and lvithout even the tiniest lump'

-.-, rrh a little more of the reserved water then pass the pur6e

: :rrrc sieve. Set aside to cool, together with the remainder of the

: ,..1tcr.

".-r:r{ the ravioli, have ready the homemade Pasta Dough and ro11

,,-t ,llavioli, steps 1-2, Page 29).

::',: goat's cheese and mascarpone together until smoothly blend-

-':oorr into a piping bag fitted with a plain Sn'nt/%in nozzle' Pipe

:. .,r.er half the pasta at intervals of about 2.5cn/1irr' Don't make

".. lrrge - they should be the size of large chocolate drops'

- . :hin pastry- or paint brush, brush in between with the beaten

:::sn tbld the other half of the dough over, aliowing it to fall over

'-rclrrred goat's cheese mixture.

- :::. cnd of a2cm/%jn plain piping nozzle as a cutter, cut out the

: I-he action of pressing down with the nozzle seals the pasta

--:ircr. Using a palette knife, scoop up the ravioli and set aside'

' :'::r)r to serving, bring the broccoli pur6e to the boil and slowly

. ::: rhree-quarters of the reserved cooking liquid, then mix in the

::ik the seasoning and consistency. If you want a thinner soup,

'. rirhe reserved water. Keep the soup hot.

:,' rhe ravioli into a pan of rapidly boiling salted water and

- :::L'nr ior just 20 seconds. With a slotted spoon, remove the

,::.i Flx6s in warmed soup bowls. Ladle over the hot soup and

::::.1i.rtely.

{h*] |

t

nr{

t

! .:'

G;

*r

I,e,

&u

I

Aaf i

r|sri

ll

't'r('t'is perhaps the mosf inJTuential part of a meal. It is

rittn to the diner of his style and it sets the scene of what is to

a chef 's

follow. Ifthat nine

.'','i I I'

'ut

,\ly personal fauourites as starters dre light

rt.f'cr to call them, mosaics). Take the SalarJ

,l ^lubergine (pog, 54): this is a cleuer dish

ing, then

o;f ten the

you are inrrigued. rf it is brilliant, then you know

main coutrse will be euen better.

;fish or uegetable terrines (or,

o;f Sautied Langoustine and

- a bliss;fully happy marriage

lttP' roasted langoustines and ;full-flauoured ;fresh Tomato Concasse (pog,

''ppe d with wafer-thin dubergine slices sprinkled with sug(ty an6 bakerl

;itt crispness.

'\[y srmmer-style mosaics may look dauntingly difficult to make, but yest

- tltey dre easy! It is simply o question of asserubling some best-quality

Itrs combined with the basic building block of a good stock, I loue making

trr d burst with excitement to turn them out and cut the first slice

n'ltat will it look like? what picture will it create on the olate?

Salad of langoustine and candied

54 STARTEl\S

Tuts otsu coNTAtNS Two cLASStc EXAI4PLES oF t1Y oRIGINAL srYLE oF

COOKING: THE SPECTACULAR PINK COATING OF THE FRESH PAN-FRIED LAN-

GouslNES (DueltN Bnv ennwNs),wHtcH coMES FRoM THE sMALL GREEN

SACS FOUND IN THE HEADS OF LIVE LOBSTERS AND WHICH WE CALL

rue 'coRnL', AND THE TopptNG oF cRtsP CLNotro AueenctNe Srtcrs.

Tuese nRr sERVED oN A RrNc oF FRESH PRovrNcar sAUcE sET ARoUND

A DELTCATE r4ouND or Mrxro Snrno Lrnves. Furl oF FLAVoUR AND A

TREAT TO THE EYE, THE LANGOUSTINE CAN BE PREPARED WITHOUT THE

COATING IF NECESSARY.

I Have ready the Basic SaladVinaigrette ancl set aside. Also have ready the

Candied Aubergines and keep warrn.

2 Prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves. Pick otT the leaves of chervil and

incorporate these into the salad; set aside.

3 To make the ProvenEal sauce, chop the skinned tomato into fine dice

and rnix rvith the olives, basil, trrragon, lenron juice artd seasoning.

Transfer to a snrall saucepan and heat until just 'uvartn but uot hot.

4 Toss the langoustines in the lobster'coral'.

5 Heat the oil until hot and fry the langoustines for about 2 minutes, strr-

ring r-rntil lightly cooked and bright pink. Drain on kitchen paper tor've1s.

6 Dress the Mixed Salad Leaves with the Basic Salad Vinaisrette and

2rrranlle in mounds in the centre of each plate. Spoon the rvarm Provenqal

sauce around the salad, then place eight langoustines on each plate, arrang-

ing them in a rir-rg on top of the sauce. Balance a Candied Aubergine Slice

on top of e:rch langoustine and serve imrnediateiy.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

about 2 tablespoons Basic Salad Vinaigrette

tPagt lo1

15 Candied Aubergine Slices (pa,ge 180)

abour 100g/3%oz Mixed Salad Leaues (below)

2 sprigs chervil

1 6;fiesh langoustines, peeled and de-ueined

2 tt:aspoons -fi'esh lobster 'coral' (tonnlley)


FOR THE PROVENQAL SAUCE:

'y' tomato, skinned and seeded

1 teaspoon.finely diced, pitted black oliues

% teaspoon edch oJ chopped basil and tdnagon

squrcze of ltmon juice

sea sdb and -fre*ly grottnd black pepper

MIXED SALAD LEAVES

I L|KE To pAy pARTtcULAR ATTENT|oN To ouR GREEN SALAD

rN rHe AueencrNr. Jusr ANy oLD LEAF srMply woN'T Do.

We use A MrxruRE oF RocKEl FRrsEE, LoLLo Rosso AND

OAK LEAF, PICKING OFF AND USING ONLY THE YOUNG TENDER

ttps.Turse ARE GENTLy wAsHED, spuN lN A SALAD sptNNER

UNTIL DRY,THEN PLACED IN A BOWL, COVERED WITH CLING

FILM AND KEPT IN THE REFRIGERATOR UNTIL REQUIRED.

au berginesaut6ed

Roasted

: 3i5T SCALLOPS ARE THOSE THAT ARE HAND PICKED BY DIVERS RATHER

.'. DREDGED, As rHEy ARE FREE FRoM GRtr. Mlre suRr rHEy ARE

.--Y CLOSED WHEN YOU BUY THEM, AS THIS SHOWS THEY ARE REALLY

-. Arrloucg you ooN't NEED THE coRAL FoR THts REclpE, oott't- -: IT AS IT CAN BE DRIED AND GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER AND

. rs A FLAVoURTNG FoR Rtsorros AND sAUcEs (ence 56).

..'r'eady the FishVelout6 and the Fish Stock.Add the ginger to the

. -lor-rt6 and allow to infr-rse for a ferv nrinutes. Str-ain it out, returning

: .:r Velout6 to a saucepan; set aside.

: the fennel, shallots and half the oil in a frying pan, heat r-rntil siz-

:lr.'r'r cover and lower the heat.Allow the vegetables to slveat gently

'irt 12 minutes until softened; shake the pan occasionally and do not

:!re vegetables to colour.

: in the r'vine, raise the heat slightly and cook, uncovered, until it has

:.irrd. Stir in the Fish Stock and boil r,rntil it has reduced by about

: J looks syrupy.

: rr the cream and cook for a further 3-'l minutes.Transfer the nrix-

' ' r tood processor or a liquidizer and blend to a soft pur6e. Return

).ln to keep warm and season to taste with lemon juice :ind salt.

:: gently reheating the gingered FishVeloute.

. tirlng pan. he:rt the remaining oil until ahnost srloking and add

.,iops, piacing thern in a clockwise direction. Cook for 3 minutes in

:-rrning once on1y, rgain in a clockrvise direction; this ensr.rres even

. ::'j. Season we1l.

..rve! spoon the fennel puree in a nert round in the centre ofeach

-.i soup plate. Place three scallop halves onto each circle ofpur6e.

rjn the gingered Fish Velout6 just approaches the boil, taste for

::rq. adding rrore lemon juice and salt if necessary. Froth r-rp with a

. :ce page 189 for supplier) or a hand-held electric multi-blender

..,u have a good foam, then spoon the sauce around the fennel pur6e.

::rrnrediately.

STARTEI{S 55

and a ginger cream

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

150m1/% pint/2 cups Fish L'tlourl (pa.gc 111

4 tablespoons Fi-sft StorA (pa,ry 11)

1 009 / 3 %oz grattd.fresh root ginger

2 ntedittnt bulbs oJ.fennel, sliccd

1 009 / 3 %oz shallots, sliced


2 rahlcspoons tulrirt rt'in,

80ml /3fl oz/|4 cup doublc crcnrn

.(4rl( c: c o-f ltnton juirt

5 prepared sta|lops, cach u,eighing dbout 259/102,

halued lengrhways (page 40)

sea salt

scallops with fen nel

56 STARTERS

To mal<e scallop coral powderlNsreno oF THRowtNG AWAy scALLop coRALS, DRy rHEM THEN GRTND

THEM DowN To A FtNE powDER FoR FLAVouRtruc. Use AS REQUtRED, A

TABLESPOON OR SO AT A TIME, STIRRING INTO SAUCES OR RISOTTOS FOR

A DELICIOUS FLAVOUR AND GLORIOUS COLOUR.

I Slice each coral in half and remove anv dirt. Place on a baking sheet

lined r,vith non-stick baking film. Set the oven to its lorvest telrperature.

abor-rt 80-10(fC/175-225"F,/Gas Mark Z. lf vor-rr oven has a pilot light

you nny prefer to r"rse this method of heating.

2 Leave the corals in the oven for arvthing betrveen 8-16 hor-rrs or

until rlrel .rre drrk pink rnd quitc britrlc. Iher .lrotrld'n.tp rvhett ther

ale rcrdv. lf tlrey dorr't \n.lp. rcturlr rhcrt to tltc ,,rcn. l('stirrg rr itttervJls.

until thev do snap.

3 Plrcc fl)c a()r,ll\ in.r [ood pro('e\\ol L frn .rr r rttn, .tttd glirrd ro I firr.porvder. (This rvi11 rnake qr:ite a noisel) Store in r scre\\--top jar.

Mille-feuille of red mullet and Iangoustine

58 STARTERS

SnrrnoN-ruvouRED FtLLETs oF RED MULLET AND LANGouslNEs

ARE LAyERED tN A sruNNtNG'wtLLe-reutLLE'ARRANGEMENT AND sERVED

wtrH A TRIcKLE oF oLtvE otL. Mnre suRE THAT THE LANGousrtNEs ARE

VERY FRESH AND FIRM WHEN YOU BUY THEM.

I Have ready the Aubergine Caviar andVegetable Nage and set aside.

2 Shel1 the langoustines, then make a lengthways split in each, without

cutting through completely so that you can open them up into a butterfly

shape. Clean if necessary, then brush with some of the oil and season.

3 Crush the saffron strands over the red mullet fillets and rub in well.This

will give them a lovely yellow colour and aromatic flavour.

4 Blanch the basil leaves briefly in boiling water then plunge them into

iced water. Mix with theVegetable Nage and pur6e in a food processor or

liquidizer then ser aside.

5 Cook the'turned'new potatoes in boiling salted water for about 7 nin-Lltes or until just tender. Drain and keep in a warm place.

6 Just prior to serving, heat through the Aubergine Caviar, check the sea-

soning and keep warm.

7 Heat two-thirds of the remaining oil in a heavy-based fryrng

pan and lightly saut6 the mullet and langoustines. For the mullet, allow 2

minutes on the skin side and 30 seconds on the flesh side. For the

langoustines, allow l minute on each side. Remove from the pan and drain.

I Divide the Aubergine Caviar between each warmed plate in a mound

in the centre and stack the mullet and then the langoustine on top. Pour

a little of the basil sauce around each mound, arrange six potatoes on the

sauce and garnish each potato with a Candied Aubergine Slice. Finish by

trickling over the iast ofthe oil.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

% x quantity Aubergine Cauiar (page 101)

5 medium to large langoustines

100m1/3'/,J1 oz/% cup oliue oil

pinch oJ salfron strands

2 red mullets, each weighing about 100g/3%oz,

flleted into;four


TO GARNISH:

3 tablespoons Vegetable Nage (page 13)

30g/1oz/% cup basil leaues

12 baby new potatoes,'turned'into barrel shapes

12 Candied Aubergine Slices (page 180)

&€d$$#n&$&d$#s #"fl Kr#

psw ee g Kw S w sK M #ww ffKff# wes #dww s

Beignets of oysters with sauce aigre-doux

50 STARTERS

OysreRs, FRESH FRoM THE SHELL, MAy BE THE FooD oF THE GoDS BUT

THEY ARE ALSO DIVINE SERVED HOT AS BEIGNETS, OR FRITTERS, IN A LIGHT,

cRtsp BATTER. THe enrrrn ts BEsr MADE wtrH FRESH vEAST, AVATLABLE

EITHER FROI'4 SMALL INDEPENDENT BAKERIES OR HEALTH FOOD SHOPS.

Dnre o, EAsy-BLEND yEAsr crvEs ALMosr coMpARABLE RESULTS, ALTHoUcH

THE RISING IVIAY TAKE A LITTLE LONGER.

I To make the batter using fi'esh )reast, creanr it rvith a little of the rnilk

until it forrls a paste. Using a balloon r,vhisk, beat irr the rcnraining inqre-

djents, urrtil srnooth.Alternativclv. blend in ;r food processor. If r-rsing easy-

blend yeast, stir the dried yeast streiqht into the flour and rdd a good pinch

of salt. Whisk ir.r the renrainine nrilk and the beer, beating until smooth.

2 Cover rvith cling fi1nr then set the borvl in :1 warLn pl:rce (sr-rch as an

airing cupboard) and leave until risen and fi-othy. This will prob:rbly take

about t hour in the case of fresh yeast but lonlrer for easy-blend.

3 Meanrvhile, make the s:ruce. Have read,v the Vegetable Nage. Saut6 the

peppers, shallots and herbs in the oi1 for abor-rt 10 ninutes r-rntil softened.

Add one teaspoon of the vinegar and cook until evapor:rte d.

4 Pour in the Noi11v Prat and cook until it has redr-rced b-v trvo thirds and

looks svrupy. Stir in theVegetable Nage, bring to the boil and simmer for

about 15 rninutes or until the vegetables are soft.

5 Discard the sprigs of herbs and the ba1 leaf, then pr-rlcc rhc vcqetables

in a food processor or liquidizer. Rr.rb the pr.rr6ed sauce through a fine

sieve with the back of a ladle. Return the sauce to the pan and boil dou,'n

for a feu' l.ninutes until it has a good coating consistenc-v.Add the remarn*

ing teaspoon ofvinegar. Season to taste and set aside.

6 Prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves, season and dress r,vith tsasic Salad

\/i" 'i.'.-tr- rh-- ^l '-- i" .h^ ^--"-- ^a - '-L ^1\ ilrJrqtcttq. tlrclr prJrc ilr Llrq (qlrLrs ur qJLlr plJtc-.

7 Pat the oysters dry and sprirrkle rvith a little flour. In a deep fifing pan

heat the oil r-rntil it reaches a temperature of about 175"C/350"F, or until

a cube of day-old bread turns crisp and golden in under 30 seconds.

8 Using your fingers or a rvooden sker,ver, dip the oysters into the batter

making sure they are rvell coated as the batter is quite thick. I)rop each one

into the hot oil and fry for about 2 rninutes on each side or rlntil golden

and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper towels.

9 Spoon the sauce around the Mixed Salad Leaves then arrangc the or-ster

beignets on the sauce. Scatter over the chopped herbs and serve straight ar.vay.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

12 .fiesh, prepared oysters (page 36)

a lirtk ltlain J1our, to sprinkle

nbout 500nil / 18.11 oz / 2 cups oliue oil

sed salt and,l)'eshly .grottnd black pcppcr

FORTHE BATTER:

59/%oz .fresh yedst or '1% teaspoons dricd easy-

blend yeast

25}ntl/9fl o:/1 ntp nilk, u,arnrcd until tepid

150g/ 5oz / 1 cup plain -flour

qood pinth of solt

1 teaspoon bt:er

FOR THE SAUCE AIGRE-DOUX:

200m1/7fl o:// cup VegetabLe Nage (page 13)

1 medium re d pepper, cored and thinly sliced

'1 nrcdium yellow pepper, cored and thinll, 5licgd

6 large shallors, thinly sliced

1 sprig each o,f thymt: and tarragon

% bay lcaJ

5 )nl / 2fl oz / % Lup oliue oil

2 tt:aspoons uhite wine uinc,qar

200m1/7fl oz/,/i cup Noilly Prat

TO SERVE:

2009/7oz Mixed Salad Ledues (page 51)

2 tenspoon-s Basic Salad Vinaigrettc bagc 19)

1 teaspoon. cach oJ chopped cheryil and tarragon.

STARTERS 6 I

Beignets of courgette flowers withrh ree-mustard vi naigrette

.. --: RESTAURANT TRADE tr ts, I ncrNowLEDGE, eutrE EAsy ro oR.DER

: :.i.FECTLY FORMED FRESH COURGETTE FLOWERS FOR STUFFING WITH A

--- FAR:E. SoNrlvrs, you cAN EVEN BUy rHEM AT euAlrry cREEN-

.::ERS. HoweveR, MANy cooKs ARE ALSo KEEN KlrcHEN GARDENERS

,'.: YAY WELL HAVE A SURFEIT OF THESE PRETTY, TRUMPET-SHAPED, GOLDEN

: .., ERS RAMBLING OVER THEIR VEGETABLE PLOT. TO MAKE THESE BEIGNETS,

.:3SE FLOWERS THATARE NEWLY FORMED ASTHEY ARE FLATTERAND SO

iI.-ER FOR DIPPING IN BATTER.YOU CNN ALSO EAT THE WHOLE BABY

:,i.GETTES ATTACHED AT THE STALK.

. urake up batter using fresh yeast, cream it with a 1ittle of the milk

- it iorms a paste . Using a balloon whisk, beat in the remaining ingrc-

:. until smooth. Alternatively, blend in a food processor. If using easy-

,i reast, stir the dried yeast straight into the flour and add a good pinch

:-:.\)Uhisk in the remaining milk and the beer, beating until smooth.

I .,r'er rvith cling fi1m then set the bowl in a warm place (such as an

':: cupboard) and leave until risen and frothy. This will probably take

.:: t hour in the case of fresh yeast but longer for easy-blend.

] ',l:.rnrvhile, prepare the Basic SaladVinaigrette and beat in the rnus-

. :.. \ct aside. Pick over the salad leaves, discarding any thick stalks and

-::rq leaves into small delicate pieces.

a -., prepare the courgette flowers, snap off the little courgettes. (Don't

:: rhem! These can be used in another dish.) One by one, hold each

'..'r gently at its stalk end. Pick out, and discard, its inner stamen.

J ',\'hen the batter is ready, in a deep frying pan heat the oil until it reach-

. :cnrperatlrre of about 175"C/350"8 or until a cube of day-o1d bread

-::. crisp and gold in under 30 seconds.

6 I)ip the florvers one at a time into the batter, coating them well and

::rrng off the batrer just be[ore you fry. Dip and fry abour 3-4 at a rime

.: cook for about one minute on each side, or until golden and crisp.

-:rn on kitchen paper towels and sprinkle with sa1t.

7 lbss the salad with a little of the three-nustard vinaigrette and place in

".rnds in the centre of each dinner plate. Trickle the remainder of the

-...ing in circles around the salad then arrange the beignets on the sauce

--,;-^ rL--^ f^* ^^-L.)\\ lllS LllrCC lOr CAr'n sefvlng.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

2009/7oz Mixed Salad Leaues (page 54)

12 medium to large courgetteJTowers

about 500m1 /18J1 oz/2 cups oliue oil

sea salt

FORTHE BATTER:

59/%oz Jresh yedst or :l% teaspoons dried,

easy-blend yeast

250m1/9fl oz/1 cup milk, warmed until tepid

1 50g/ 5oz / 1 cup plain Jlour

good pinch of salt

1 teaspoon beer

FORTHE DRESSING:

1 x quantity Basic Salad Vinaigrette (page 19)

1% teaspoons wholegrain mustard

1% teaspoons Dijon ntustard

1% teaspoons honey mustdrd

-.-f erflne ot gras with confit

STARTERS 63

INGREDIENTS (makes a lkgt2tb 4oz

terrine for 8- | 0)

4 medium to large duck legs

2 sprigs tlryme

1 sprig rosemary

250g/8oz/1 cup goose or du&fdt, melted

2 x 750g/1Ib 10oz whole_fresh duck or loose

;foie gras

1 tablespoon white port

1 tahlespoon Armagnac

1 tablespoon Madeira


foie canard* i . ;a56141 occAs|oN TERRINE, IDEAL FoR Cun|srmRs WHEN FAT-

] 'CKS AND FRESH FOIE GRAS ARE MORE READILY AVAILABLE.WE USE

r . : r-HER THAN GOOSE FOIE GRAS BECAUSE tT tS LESS EXPENS|VE ANDd4 } '- _ABLE

FOR A TERRINE. FRESH FOIE GRAS GENERALLY NEEDS TO BE

, i:: iN ADVANCE FROM SpECtALtTy BUTCHERS, ALTHOUGH A FEW

..3P5 MAY SOMETIMES HAVE IT IN STOCK. GOOSE FAT CAN BE

$ -- .ROM SPECtALtTy SHOPS, BUT yOU MAy HAVE SOME SAVFD FROM

6 A " "*: A GOOSE. FON NN EXTRA SPECIAL PRESENTATION, GARNISH EACH

-r cHoppED pORT WtNE JELLY OR COLD CHOppED CONSOMME.

NEED TO START THIS DISH A DAY IN ADVANCE.

'- :.r' hairs from the duck iegs then season and sprinkle with the

-,,ed from the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Cover and set aside in' j.rrror for 2 hours to a110w the flavours to permeate. preheat the

' - i f C / 325"F,/Gas Mark 3.

. :irc duck legs in a small roasting pan or cast_iron casserole, then::ir rhe melted goose or duck fat.Wet a iarge sheet of greaseproof

:..i crumple it over and around the duck legs to hold them sub_' ..:re'ler the fat.

'ri roasting pan or casserole over a medium heat and bring the fat,:i.Transfer the pan carefully ro rhe oven. Cook for 1%-2hours or

: :.e:tt is meltingly tender and starts to fall off the bone. Remove' :: heat and leave the duck to cool in the fat.

.::,r'hile, remove the foie gras from the refrigerator about 1_2 hours

:-:cparatlon, to soften, so they are easier to handle. Carefully:lc lobes of each liver into 2 halves and, using a small sharp knife,

. :hc membrane and central vein, making sure you don,t damage the

-: r'ou like, check for any blood spots and pick these out too.This is

'.::rral, but the rerrine will look better when it is sliced. Repeat with' ::r foie gras.

::..,' remould the foie gras making sure you don,t overhandle them:. iould turn soft. Lay the foie gras in a deep roasting pan. Season. ,.r and pepper and sprinkle over the port, Armagnac and Madeira.:() nlarinate for I hour.

.::$*r * {x: $s sg. 3',,,

64 STARTERS

5 Preheat the oven to 190"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5. Roast the marinared

foie gras for about 12 minutes or until the liver is just soft and slightly

reduced in size.A word of warning: a lot of glorious, goiden fat will seep

out, which you need to save. Gently remove the livers and set aside.

7 Now continue with the confit: strip the duck meat from the bones then

mix with a little of the soft goose or duck fat in which it was cooked alorrg

with some seasoning. This helps bind the meat together.

8 Line the base of a lkg/2lb loaf tin with a strip of greaseproof paper.

Cut the foie gras into slices abost 1,cm/'/'tn thick. Layer in the tin along

with the duck pieces, pouring a little of the saved foie gras fat between

each layer and finishing with a layer of foie gras.

9 Cut a sheet oF foil or greaseproof paper to fit the rop o[ rhe tin

exactly. Lay it in position. Place measuring weights or small cans on top.

The pressure should be light but even. Leave the terrine in the refrigera-

tor overnight or until set and firm enough to slice.

| 0 Rerrrove the foil or paper. Melt a little of the remaining foie gras fat

and spoon some of this on top of the terrine to seal it completely. Chill inthe refrigerator until set.

| | To unmould the terrine, run a hot knife blade round rhe inside of the

loaf tin and invert onto a flat board or platter. Lift away the tin and remove

the lining paper.To serve, cut into 2.5cn/1in slices.Accompany the rer-

rine with a crisp green salad and offer slices of warm brioche toast.

STARTERS 65

ached oysters in a watercress sauce

-€R SUBLIMELY SIMPLE DISH _ OYSTERS POACHED IN THEIR OWN INGREDIENTS (for 2)

200m1/7fl oz/'.4 cup FishWloutt (page 14)

2 0 0g / 7 o z homemade Thgliatelle (page 2 9 ) or ;fresh

ready-made

300g/l0ozJresh watercress (about 6 bunches)

10;fresh oysters

3-4 tablespoons rock salt, to serue

259/1oz/% stick unsalted butter

10 tiny sprigs cheruil


S iHEN SERVED WITH A WATERCRESS VELOUTE AND HOMEMADE

.r-ELLE. lr vou ooN'r HAVE TrME To MAKE youR owN TAGLTATELLE,

:^\ SUBSTITUTE FRESH READY.MADE.

l|-i. I ths FishVelout6 and homemade Tagliatelle, if using, and set aside.

lc r :he thick stalks o{f the watercress and discard, then wash the leaves

, -'r rhree changes of cold water.

tb,:.i.r pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the watercress for 3-

:r-:sr. then drain and squeeze lightly in a cloth to dry.

l* r :ood processor or liquidizer, blend the watercress to a smooth, fine

: :jJing a little of the FishVelout6 to loosen the mixture if necessary.

?:i the FishVelout6 to the boil then stir in the watercress pur6e. Pass

";:-s through a sieve, rubbing with the back of a ladle, then set aside.

iil;.-h the homemade Tagliatelle in boiling salted water for barely

:-::e then drain. Plunge into very cold water to refresh and drain

.:eps 9-10, page 28). If using ready-made, follow the pack instruc-

rst aside.

t t,::: rhe oysters (page 36), reserving their juices and tipping these into

L, lrn. Discard the flat shells. Scrub the rounded shells clean and pat

r;,.on five small mounds of rock salt onto each plate and sit an oys-

*:-- on each.

*.:::car the Tagliatelle in a little water with the butter. Curl a little of

:r:r.rred Tagliatelle into each cleaned oyster shel1. Keep warm.

F,;-h the oysters in their own juice cooking for about 2 minutes then

:r s rhem from the juice with a siotted spoon and place on the pasta.

!(:hcat the sauce until just boiling, check the seasoning and spoon

::- o\-sters. Garnish with the chervil sprigs and serve.

STARTEl{S 67

Mosaic of rabbit with cabbage and cdpes

"::T IS HIGHLY PRIZED IN FNNruCE BUT STILL REGARDEDWITH SOME DIS-

" '. tN GRenr BnTntNANDTHE USA-A PtrY BEcAUSE lr lsA DEllclous,

-- t'4EAT THAT ts EASy ro PREPARE AND cooK.Tuls pRrrrv TERRINE ls

: CF THE MOST POPULAR STARTERS AT THE AUAENCINT. SENVE WITU N

,::\ SALAD AND GLAZE EACH SLICE WITH A LITTLE TRUFFLE-FLAVOURED

,: OIL. FOR TgC RABBIT, BUY A WHOLE, SMALL, DOMESTICATED ONE'

, , :RING IN ADVANCE FROM YOUR BUTCHER IF NECESSARY.YOU CNN NTSO

J 'T THIS RECIPE BY SUBSTITUTING A GOOD-QUALITY FREE-RANGE

' :<rN.You wtLL NEED To srART THE MosAtc A DAY oR so lN ADVANcE.

::rrt make the rabbit confi.t: preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F/

\lark 4.Joint the rabbit by cutting offthe legs and saddle; there is no

: to keep tl-re rib cage or neck, which can be discarded.

.rce in a ovenproof casserole. Heat the goose fat to boiling point

' l,our it over the rabbit. Add the bay leaves, thyme, coriander seeds,

:.crcorns, star anise and salt.

"1:rke sure the rabbit is completely submerged beneath the fat. Cut out

.'ct of greaseproof pape r (r've call this a cartouthe) to fit the top of thc

.:role exactly. Place this on top of the fat so that the meat is held

..rrh the frt and prevented from brorvning and overcooking. If you wet

raper it will be easier to mould.

t.ook in the oven for about 12 hours or until the meat is very tender.

.'.e to cool in t1-re fat then remove, scrape off excess fat, herbs and spices,

.: remove the meat fi-om the bones in large pieces. Make sure the meat

:::e of fat, veins and sinews. If you 1ike, strain the fat and store it in the

''rserrtor for further use. It will keep for a good few months.

i:or the terrine, boil the Brown Chicken Stock until reduced by about

..r-to concentrate the flavour. Set 250m1/9fl oz/1 cttp aside in a saucepan

: the potatoes.

Heat half the butter in a frying pan and saut6 the cabbage quickly until

.t rvilted. Remove witl-r a slotted spoon. Add the remairring butter and

,:: ',::il,t-:i.:: -::l

::: t::'

INGREDIENTS (for 8- l0)

FORTHE CONFIT:

1 rabbit, weighin.g about 1kg/2lb

about 800g/1lb 12oz goosefat or concentratcd butter

2 bay leaues

1 sprig thyme

10 whole coriander seeds

10 black peppercorns, crushed

7 star dmse

2 tablespoons coarse sea salt

FOR THE TERRINE:

1.7 litres/3 pints/7% cups Brown Chicken Stock

(pdge 18)

about 859/3oz/31 stick butttr

1 50g/ 5oz young cdbbage leaues, finely shredded

150g/5oz m'ixed wild mushrooms e.g. cipes,

shiitdkes or oysters, sliced

'12 new potatocs, preferably long in shape, stubbed

6 leaues gelatin.e or 4 teaspoons gelatine crystals

J 1s$11.;poons rltoppcd rlttvcs

250g/9oz pdtt de foie grds, cut into long strips

sea salt and Jreshly grottnd bldck pepper

:ij ,:: , :i' ., ,::i;'i"::.,:-'i:: -iii"

::, ::: r:,:i::,.,i: a::

68 STARTERS

saut6 the mushrooms until cooked; drain and set aside. Season both

vegetables well and leave to coo1.

7 Cook the potatoes in the reserved stock until just render - about 10

minutes. (At the restaurant, we 'turn' these before cooking, that is, we cut

them into equal*size barrel shapes; but this is optional. As long as the pota-

toes are 1ong, rather than round, and roughly the sarne size - about

5cn/2in - the terrine will look good.) Drain, set aside and cool.

8 Bring the remaining 500m1/18fl oz/2 crps of Brown Chicken Stock

to boiling point. Meanwhile, if using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in ice-

cold r,vater for at least 5 minutes or until softened, then squeeze out the

water..W'hen the stock has boiled, stir in the leaf gelatine until dissolved.

If using geiatine crystals, sprinkle directly into the just-boiled stock, stlr-

ring briskly until clear. Mix the chives into the stock, then set aside to cool

- pre[erably over ice - srirring Fronr rinre to tinre unril rhe mixture just

starts to thicken.

9 Using a 7.I litre/2 pint/5 cup loaf tin, pour a little of the setting jelly

in the base, and sprinkle in a little of the cabbage and mushrooms. Lay

pieces of rabbit lengthways down the tin, placing potatoes and strips

of foie gras in between. Pour over some.1el1y, making sure the chives are

well distributed.

l 0 Add further layers of cabbage and mushrooms, then jelly, rabbit, pota-

toes, foie gras and more je1ly, pressing the food down beneath the layers of

3el1y. Repeat the layering process finishing rvith cabbage and mushrooms

and leaving a space of about 2cn/%in ar rhe rop (you will nor use all the

rabbit). Pour over more jelly ensuring it completely covers the food.Tap

the tin lightly on the work surface to release any air bubbles. Place care-

fu1ly in the refrigerator and leave overnight or until the terrine is set and

firm enough to slice.

| | To turn out the terrine, dip a palette knife in boiling warer and run itaround the insides of the tin to loosen. Dip the base into a bowl of vcry

hot water and count to 10. Invert the mould onto a flat board or platter

and give it a good shake.The terrine should slip out, but.if it does not, dip

the tin again for 10 seconds and repeat the process with a hot palette knife.

For ncat slices. cur wirh an elccrric carving kni[e. or a long serrared knife.

STORING RABBIT CONFIT

AFTER MAKING THts REctpE you wtLL HAVE ABoUT HALF THE

QUANTITY OF RABBIT CONFIT LEFT OVER WHICH CAN BE

usED To MAKE ANoTHER TERRTNE LATER. To pntpene ttls

FOR STORAGE, PLACE IN A BOWL, REHEAT THE GOOSE FAT

AND POUR OVER ENOUGH TO COVER THE COOKED MEAT.

Crrrr uNttL sET THEN covER wtrH cLtNG FILM.THE coN-

FIT SHOULD KEEP FRESH FOR A GOOD MONTH, AS LONG AS

THE I.1EAT HAS BEEN COMPLETELY COVERED IN THE FAT.

I casted

.:: GENERALLY FAR TOO CAUTIOUS ABOUT USING RABBIT. IT 'S

. :--. ]T TENDS TO BE IN A CASSEROLE, MAYBE EVEN n TeRnIrue, BuT

- .:CIPE FOR A SALAD OT NNEEIT! THC NNES IS SERVED WARM AND

. r'.:D By SAUTEED wtLD t4usHRooMs, SALAD LEAVES AND LtcHT-

--a-\zED cHtcoRy. lr you rtNo tr DtFFIcULT To BUy RABBIT LEGs,

*]TE RABBIT AND FREEZE THE SADDLE FOR USE LATER.

- ,.lv the Basic SaladVinaigrette and set aside.

. :he oven to 200"C/400'F/Gas Mark 6. Heat the oil in a cast-

'. rth a knob of the butter. Saut6 the rabbit legs until lightly

..1 over.

:ire legs l,vith a butter paper or butterecl greaseproof paper then'

. j o\-en for about 5 minutes or until jr-rst cooked.

r tl'orn the oven and allorv to rest for 5 minutes. Cut each leg

::'.,r,rqh the joint, then remove the meat from the bones and cut it.:,rns. Toss r,vith one-third of the Basic SaladVinaigrette; season

.: lc.' .: heads of chicory into strips, from top to bottom. Heat a quar-

. r'cunining butter in a pan and lightly saur6 the strips, sprinkiing

.rlt and sugar.

:r rl-re strips start to soften, after about 3 minutes, remove them

. ',..rn and n'ipe it out with a kitchen paper tor,vel. Return the pan

:-'.rt and pour in the cream.

: rhe cream to the boil, return the chicory strips to the pan and

' : rbout one minute until reduced dor,vn by about ha1f. Set aside.

. the mushrooms in fhe renrainjng butter for about 5 minutes

::. -just softened. Remove and toss in another third of the

rrg vinaigrette.

'tsrr'1or to serving, prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves, dress thern light-

:. rhe last of the Basic SaladVinaigrette and place in a mound in the

trf each plate. Arrange the chicory strips around the sa1ad. Spoon

.:.hlooms on top of the chicory and the rabbit pieces on top of the

ooms. Garnish with delicate snrir's of chervil .lnd serve at once.

STAI{TERS 69

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

3 tablespoons Basic Salad Vinaigrettc (pa.qe

'1 tablespoon oliue oil

100g/ 3%oz / 1 stick hutte r

4 medium to ldrge rabbit legs

4 large heads chicory

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons sugdr

200m1/7fl oz/tl cup double credrn

3 009 /'1 0oz wild mushrooms

200,9/7oz Mixed Sdlad Leaues (pdge 54)

.feut sprigs cheruil

sea salt and.frcshly ground black pepper

rabbit salad with chicory e la crdme

19)

Tian of tomatoes with vegetables e la Grecque

14ouros OF I4ARINATED FRESH TOMATOES FILLED WITH AUSENCINT CNVINR

ANDsERVEDwITHTENDERBABYVEGETABLESLIGHTLYINFUSEDWITH

SAFFRON AND CORIANDER BALSAMIC DRESSING. EXCTITTNT AS A FIRST

COURSE IN SUMMER.

I Have readl' the Aubergine Caviar and set aside-

2 Skin rhe romatoes by dipping briefly in boiling water so that the skrns

slip otT easily. Cut each into qllarters and cliscard the seeds'

3 season and marinare in 3 tablespoons of the oi1 together with

1 teaspoon of the balsan'ric vinegar and half the herbs, for about 2 hours.

4 lrrepare all the vegetables by peeling or trimrning. Bring the renr:rinder'

of the oil and vinegar to the boil, then add all the baby vegetables, the

remaining herbs, and the crushed coriander seeds and safTron strands.

Remove {r-ont the heat and leave to infuse, turnir}g oncc or trvice. r.rntil

coo1. Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving.

5 Drain the tottratoes, reserving the marinacle. Use the tonatoes to lirre

the base and sides of tr,vo ramekins. Spoon in tlie Aubergine oaviar, press-

ing it down firnrly, then chi11 for about 30 minutes to a11or'v it to settle.

6 Tb serve, unmould a tian into the centre of each plate ancl spoon over

the reserved tolrato marinade to glaze. Prepare the Mixed Salad Le:rves

and place small n.rounds on top. Drain the baby vegetables from therr

marinade, arrange them around each tian tl'ren trickle over a little of the

marinade to garnish.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

% x quantity Aubergine Cauiar (page 1011

6 large dark red plum tomatoes

200m1/7Jl oz/l cup oliue oil

2 teaspoons balsamit uin.egar

1 teaspoon each of chopped bdsil, cheruil,

coriander and chive:

2 small seruings Mixed Salad Leaues (page 51)

sea salt dnd -fl'eshly ground black peppet

FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH:

1 baby -fcrtnel btilbs, or 1 ntedium one cut

into qudrters

I bab1, ottittns

I baby carrots

4 bdby leeks, or 1 medium one slit lenpthu'als

into Jbur

I babl' t11Y11iPt

I asparagus trps

6 cttriander seeds, tushed

1 good pinth sffi'on strdnds

Salad of spring vegetables with lemon vinaigrette- ] VPLE, LIGHT SALAD STARTER CONTAINING A HOST OF YOUNG'

I ..GETABLES, BLANCHED AND TOSSED IN A LIVELY LEMON AND

..: cRETTE. Tue srcRrr oF THts REFRESHING SALAD ls ro ALLow

1 I'.:HED COOKED VEGETABLES TO COOL IN THE DRESSING. IT SOTVE'

": sABY VEGETABLES ARE DIFFICULT TO GET HOLD OF BUY

..GEST YOU CAN FIND AND PEEL OFF A FEW LAYERS' OR CUT THEM

! -:.SIZED CHUNKS,

'. rhc Basic SaladVinaigrette and mix in the lemon juice, spices

' :::c herbs. Set aside.

-. .rll the vegetables apart from the Mixed Salad Leaves, leaving

: ,ir and lighdy peeling or scrubbing as necessary. Bring a large

::.1 rvater to the boil. Blanch ail the vegetables together for just

'::. rinring fror-n when the water returns to the boii.You may find

.: ro do in a blanching basket.

.rnd immediately toss in the Basic Salad Vinaigrette. Season

:' Iiked. Leave to cool completely, stirring the vegetables gently

:rr to tilne so that they absorb the flavourings evenly.

:. cool, remove the vegetables from the dressing using a slotted

,i. -:'erve the dressing.

. ,:c the Mixed Salad Leaves and lightly dress with a little of the

.: \'inaigrette. Arrange the vegetables prettily around the salad.

,iappe (coat) with any remaining dressing so that everything

. .r'rd :prinkle ove r the remaining he rbs.

STARTERS 7I

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

'y' x quantity Basic SalddVinaigrette (page 19)

juice of 7 lemon

12 coriander seeds, uushed

2 star anise

1 teaspoon each oJ thopped basil, cheruil and chiues

100g/3%oz baby carrots

100g/3%oz baby leeks

100g/3%oz baby turnips

1 009 / 3%oz young dspdragus

1009/ j%oz baby _fennel bulbs

150g/5oz Mixed Salad Leaves (page 54)


72 STARTERS

Fillets of sardine and red mullet

lN rHe suMMER,wE sERVE THls LIGHT DlsH oF RED MULLET AND SARDINES

wtTH A cOURr-gourLLoN oR vectrnglE NncE sluce nruo Tolnro

CoNcnssr. Fon n MAIN couRsE, wE sERVE THls wlrH A wARM

Tovnro nruo BnstL Tnnr (nnce 75), nru totn I rtRsr CAME AcRoss

tNPnnts.loenllv,UsEsMALLREDMULLETSFoRTH|SDIsH'soTHEY

MATCH THE sARDINEs lN slzE. You wtll- NEED To ALLow oNE sucH

MULLET PER PERSON. AITTNNNTIVCLY, BUY TWO LARGER MULLETS AND CUT

EACH INTO 4 TIIITTS. YOUR TISHI"IONGER SHOULD BE ABLE TO SCALE

AND FILLET THEM FOR YOU.

I Have ready the Vegetable Nage or Court-bouillon and the Tomato

Concasse; set aside.

2 Trim the fish fillets to neaten with a small sharp knife then pull out any

pin bones using tweezers. Place in a shallow pan or deep frying pan and

season well.

3 Pour over the Vegetable Nage or Court-bouillon, bring up to the boil

then leave the mullets and sardines to cool down' while stil1 in the liquid'

4 when co1d, remove the fish carefully and chill. Strain the vegetable

Nage or court-bouillon then add half the basil leaves and leave to infuse.

Chop the remaining basil leaves into fine julienne'

5 Mix the Tomato Concasse into the flavoured Vegetable Nage or the

Court-bouillon.

6 To serve, arrange the mullets and sardines in the centre of chilied plates.

Strain thevegetable Nage or Court-bouillon through a sieve, reserving the

Tomato concasse, and use to glaze the fish. Sprinkle the Tomato concasse

and julienne of basil all around. Finally, drizzle over the olive oi.l.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Wgetable Nage (page 13) at

Court-bouillon (Page 1 6)

1 tablespoonsTomdto Concasse (page 97)

4 small red mullets, scaled, gutted and filleted, or

2 larQe ones each cut into 4 fllets

4.fresh sardines, gutted and -filleted

8 basil leaues

2-3 teaspoons oliue oil


s# 3,,'*X

sg i:

Tomato and basil tarts; .LAVOUR AND VERY VERSATILE, THESE LIGHT, CRISB TARTS PILED

." -- JUICY TOMATO SLTCES AND DRTZZLED WtTH BASTL-FLAVOURED

*'. 3E SERVED AS A FIRST COURSE OR VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT.

1:i ESPECTALLY GOOD SERVED Wtrg FtLlerS Or SnROtUr nUO ReO

,' 'IAGE 72).

-;*htly floured board, ro11 out the Puff Pastry to a thickness of

:::::r'Zin. Cut out four 1.0crn/4in circles, prick them with a fork' i :o rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

' r: rhe oven to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark T.Place the pastry circles

.. :,g sheet and place another baking sheet on top. Bake for 5 min-

:::rove the top baking sheet. turn the discs over using a palette

' ':-rce the top sheet and bake for a further 5 minutes.

'.'. the top sheet completely and bake the circles once again until' :olden colour. Remove and reduce the oven temperature to

:-5"F/Gas Mark 5.

::re tomatoes by dipping them briefly into boiling water then slip-

::' :he skins. IJsing a sharp knife, cut into very thin slices. Arrange

:::.1toes on each tart rn a circle of overlapping slices, building each

.i high mound in the centre. Season we1l.

'.::sie half of the basil over the tarts and drtzzl.e over half the oi1.

-:: :o the oven and bake for a further 6-7 minutes, glazing every 2

',. rvith a little more of the oil. Remove from the oven and drizzle

.:-rrning oil over the tarts along with the balsamic vinegar and the

: ::e basil. Serve warm.

p,i;i ;= ;i: -'' :

..'

STARTERS 75

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

200g/7oz homemade Puff Pastry (page 25)

5009/1lb 2oz plump ripe tomatoes

2 59 / 1 oz /% cup basil leaues, cut into Jine

julienne strips

100m1/3%oz/% cup oliue oil

7 tablespoon balsamic uinegar


.4rr-!.

i,itrj-ii ,ifi;i ,ti'

- lrtt,€ most o;f all about -fresh pasta and risotto is the reward you receiue

'ii,r/ to the effort you haue inuested, You can change your rauioli and

,:i-fillings and risotto Jlavourings as you do your clothes, according to the

tttd to your mood.You willfind the bdsic method;for mdking Pasta Dough

ISrtilding Blocks chapter (page 27).

Rauioli and tortellini are uery personal. The secret is to use a uery thin

,,'tt,qh with a moist, chunky;filing that should be just cooked in the centre

ttto{e. The technique may need a little practice as the edges must be

.'rttly utell sealed to preuent any water from penetrating the pasta coating

I .o oking and ruining the filling.

With risotto, you must use an authentic t,ound-grained ltalian risotto rice that

ro d silky credminess yet retains a;firm al dente bite. Carnaroli, Arborio

','t ttlone IJano grains are what we pre;fer. Risotto cdn be flauowred with

rrpone cheese, freshly grated Parmesan cheese and just a hint of Shallot

:t-it (page 94): nothing too strong or ouerpowering.

78 I'ASTA AND RISOTTO

Ravioli of with its ownA veRy spEclAL LTGHT MEAL AND AN TDEAL usE FoR LoBsrERs wtrH

DAMAGED CLAWS, SINCE THE RECIPE REQUIRES ONLY THE LOBSTER MEAT

RATHER THAN A pERFEcr pRESENTATIoN tN THE steLL. Tlr LoBsrER

MEAT, COMBINED WITH SALMON AND HERBS, FORI,lS THE FILLING FOR THE

RAVIoLr. Tue se RnvroLt cAN BE AssEMBLED AND BLANcHED tN ADVANcE,

THEN SET ASIDE, TO BE FINISHED IUST BEFORE SERVING.

I To kill the lobsters, lay them stomach downwards on a board, then pierce

firm1y through the cross marks on their skulls with the tip of a heavy, sharp

knife. Remove the claws, slit the bodies in half lengthways and clean rhe

insides, removing the entrails and coral. Blanch the body tails and claws in

boiling water for 15 seconds; this helps release the meat from the shell.

Drain, remove the meat from the bodies and claws, then dry with a tea towel

or kitchen paper towel. Chop into fine dice and place in rhe refrigerator.

2 ln a food processor, blend the salmon filiet to a smooth pur6e. Mixtogether the pur6e, the diced lobster meat, the herbs and some seasonirrg.

3 To complete the ravioli fil1ing, divide the mixrure inro 8 neat, round

balls, rolling them with hands that are completely dry.This may be a little

sticky. but it is csrential not to get any moisture in rhe filling. Place rhe

balls on a plate and chill to firm.

4 For the ravioli, ro11 out the Pasta Dough thinly; then using a l)crn/+ncutter, stamp out 16 circles and fill them wirh the chilled balls ro make 8

fil1ed ravioli (steps 1-4, page 29). Blanch and refresh the ravioli (steps 9-

10, page 28), Drain well, cover and chill until required.

5 Meanwhile, prepare the vegetable garnish: cur rhe cabbage into fine

shreds and saut6 in a pan with half the butter until just wilted. Peel the car-

rots then cut into fine julienne strips. Saut6 these separately in the remaln-

ing butter until wilted and just softened, and keep warm.

6 For the vinaigrette, boii the Langoustine or Lobster Stock until reduced

by about two-thirds. Add the oil and the herbs, rhen ser aside to infuse.

7 Just prior to serving, reheat the ravioli in boiling warer for 2 minures

then drain. Place a mound of the cabbage in the centre of each warmed

plate.Top each with a ravioli and arrange thejulienne ofcarrot on top ofeach ravioli. Spoon the vinaigrette over and around the ravioli then serve.

:x

$l$

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

FORTHE RAVIOLI:

2 liue baby lobsters, each weighing about

500g/1lb 2oz

100g/3%oz Jresh salmon -fillet

% teaspoon each chopped fresh basil, tdrrdgon

and cheruil

about % x quantity (200g/7oz) homemade

Pasta Dough (page 27)

sea salt and;freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH:

7 small Sauoy cabbage

50g/2oz/% stick butter

100g/3%oz carrots

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:

200 ml/7J1 oz/',4 cup Langoustine Stock or

Lobster Stock (page 15)


% teaspoon each chopped basil, tawagon

and cheruil

lo bste r ao

vtnatgrette

t*.X$3: {: :i''

,,'.:f ,,i.,

Ravioli of goat's cheese with artichoke bouillon

80 PASTA AND RISOTTO

Go,qr's cHEEsE, BLENDED wtrH A sMALL AMoUNT oF MASCAReoNE

CHEESE, MAKES A TANGY, LIGHT FILLING FOR RAVIOLI - AN IDEAL GARNISH

PARTNER FOR A CLEAR BROTH OR BOUILLON OF GLOBE ARTICHOKES,

sopHtslcATED yET srMpLE. BorH GARNTsH AND BoutLLoN cAN BE MADE

rN ADVANcE AND REHEATED JUsr pRtoR To SERVTNG. FollowTHE lNsrRucloNs FoR MAKTNG RAVtoLt oN pAGE 79, ew tNsrEAD

oF sHAptNG THE FtLLING tNTo BALLS, ptpE THE CREAMED cont's cHEESE

ONTO EACH PASTA DISC.

I Have ready the Pasta Dough and Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage, and

set both aside.

2 For the ravioli, roll out the Pasta Dough (steps 1-2, page 29) then stamp

out 72 circles using a 10crn/1in cutter. For the ravioli fi1ling, mash the

goat's cheese with a wooden spoon to soften, then beat in the mascarpone

cheese until smooth. Place in a piping bag fitted with a plain lcn/linnozzl.e tnd pipe the mixture onto 6 of the pasta discs. Finish making the

ravioli according to the instructions on page 29, using rhe beaten egg wash

to seal. Blanch (steps 9-10, page 28) and plunge into iced water. Set aside.

3 For the bouilion, prepare the artichokes in the same way as for the

Velout6 ofArtichokes rvith Foie Gras (step 2,page 17).

4 Heat the oil in a saucepan and saut6 the shallots and drained

artichoke slices along with the peppercorns until the vegetables are

nicely browned and caramelized, about 10 minutes.

5 Deglaze the pan with the wine then add the stock. Bring to the boil

then simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the

vegetables to infuse for 30 nrinutes.

6 Line a colander with damp muslin or a clean tea towel. Pour the bouil-

lon through twice, or until you have a clear broth. Set aside until you are

ready to serve.

7 To serve, return the bouillon to the boil, stir in the chopped herbs and

check the seasoning. Add the reserved ravioli and simmer very gently to

reheat. Serve immediatelv.

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

FORTHE RAVIOLI:

about % x quantity (3009/10%oz) homemade

Pasta Dough (page 27)

200g/7oz so-ft godr's cheese e.g. crorrin


1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch o;f salt and

2 teaspoons water

FORTHE BOUILLON:

1 litre/1%pints/4% ups Chicken Stock (page

or Vegetable Nage (page 13)

4 large globe artichokes

juice of % lemon


5 shallots, sliced

12 black peppercorns

J tdblespoons dry whire winc

1 teaspoon each of chopped tarragon, basil and

chiues

sea salt and;freshly ground white pepper

18)

I

t

II

7

I

t!

Tagliate I le with truffles3,r'ptt nNo suBLtME - WHEN FRESH TRUFFLEs ARE tN sEASoN THERE

,I ."TTLE TO BEAT THEIR EXQUISITE FLAVOUR AND THEIR GLORIOUS PART-

rcasHtp wtrH FRESH pnsrn. lN THE RESTAURANT,wE LtKE To usE TRUFFLES

}CAJEO INTO THE THINNEST SLICES, THEN SCATTERED ON TOP OF A

Tr!F. IN THIS CASE HOMEMADE TICIINTCLLT ACCOMPANIED BY A WILD

T:'{ROOM SAUCE. YOU ruETO ONLY ONE SMALL TRUFFLE OF ABOUT

ULSAcM- loz roR THrs DtsH. lr woulo MAKE A DtvlNE sTARTER.

:'YING FRESH TRUFFLES

?{ rnurrle sEAsoN srARTs tN Lnre OcroeeR AND LASTS uruttL MnRcH.

?r-rrtrs ARE vERy EXpENStvE ARouND CHRtstwns,wHEN DEMAND ts HtcH tN

hr.ice, AND pRtcES wtLL REFLECT tuts. Tue BEsr IME FoR BUytNG ts tN

lr,.l.leRy eNo FreRunRy. lru tHe nestnuRANT wE usE THE BLACK TRUFFLE FRoM

N.€ PERIGoRD REGIoN IN soUTH-wEsr FRI.Nce FoR sAUcEs AND souPs,

@NG SMALL SHAVTNGS AS A GARNTSH,AS ON OUR CnppUCCrNO SOUeS (enCeS

ti.35);aNo wE usE THE wHrrE TRUFFLE FRoM ALen rN lrnlv ron pAsrA, sALADs

hc FoR vARrous FoRMs oF GARNtSH. SprcrnlLy DEstcNED TRUFFLE sHAVERS ARE

{EE*:- FoR pRoDUctNc TRANSpARENT,wAFER-THIN st_tces. lru pLAcE oF oNE oF

N{SE.YOU MIGHT TRY A MANDOLIN SLICER OR A VERY SHARP KNIFE BUT, QUITE

€\6TLY, HAVING INVESTED IN A TRUFFLE, YOU MAY FIND IT WORTHWHILE

fi!.tsTlNc lN A PROPER TRUFFLE SHAVER.

ft/HFTHER BLACK oRwHtrE,A PERFECTTRUFFLE sHouLD BE HtcHLy PERFUMED

lho. GENERALLY, THE SMALLER IT IS, THE MORE INTENSE ITS GLORIOUS SCENT,

€rtCx THE TRUFFLE FOR WORMS - lT SHOULD BE BLEMTSH-FREE AND UNCOR-

E€D. FtNnllv, BE wARNED - A GooD TRUFFLE ts EXpENstvE, BUT A LtrrLE GoEs

r .oNG wly. ONce pURCHASED, sroRE youR TRUFFLE FoR up ro neour 3

n€xs rN A BAG oF Rtsorro RtcE tN THE REFRtcERnroR. Nor oNLy DoEs tr

rp rHE TRUFFLE AT lrs BEsl tr ALso IMpARTS A HEAVENLy scENT To rur Rrce!

I Cook homemade Tagliatelie briefly in boiling lightly salted water for

a: nlore than 1 minute. Cook ready-made tagliatelle according to the

s"ai instructions. Drain, then toss in the Vegetable Nage or vegetable

il.::r. and the cream. Season and keep warm in the pan.

t Gently fry the sliced mushrooms in the truflle oil until just tender,

rr..'ut 2-3 minutes, stirring well.

t .\rrange the pasta on warmed plates, add the mushrooms and grate or

i:'-:h' shave over the truffle. Serve immediately.

PASTA AND RISOTTO 8I

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

2 5 0g / 9oz homemade Thgliatelle (page 2 9)

or fresh ready-made

150m1/% pint/% cup Wgetable Nage (page 13) or

uegetable cooking water

100m1/31/'fl oz/% cup double cream

100g/3%oz wild mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons trffie oil

2 0- 3 0g /%- 1 oz fresh trffie


I

PASTA AND RISOTTO 83

crtellini of ratatouille with sauce gazPacho

J.. HAS ALL THE PUNCHY FLAVOUR YOU WOULD EXPECT FROM ITS

::: ANEAN INGREDIENTS - PEPPERS, COURGETTES' AUBERGINES' OLIVES

- .E orl. THe Pnsrn Doucu, RATAToUILLE AND sAUcE GAZPAcHo

.. BE MADE IN ADVANCE, THEN BROUGHT TOGETHER FOR SERVING'

:- WITH A FLOURISH OF DEEP-FRIED CELERIAC SHREDS.

::rclv the Pasta Dough and the Tomato Concasse, and set aside'

:ke the tortelloni fil1ing, saut6 the diced peppers' courgette and

::. in the oil for about 5 tninutes until just cooked. Drain and

.irr'. either in a large piece of muslin or a clean tea towel.

. rhe mixture to coo1, then place in a bowl and nrix in the Tomato

'..rnd the sliced basil. Season, then shape into 24 small ba1ls and

:trnr up.

. ir rhe spinach until just wilted, then drain and pat dry gently on a

,rh. keeping the leaves whole if possible. Spoon the pur6ecl olives

.l r:rtatouille bai1, and wrap each lightly in a spinach leaf. Set aside'

..cnrble the tortellini, ro11 out the Pasta l)or'rgh. L-Ising a gcnr/3''in

. .rr ollt 2'l circles, then fill each with a spinach-rvrapped ba1l, fbld-

: .Lrr'1ins into a tortellini shape (steps 1-8, page 28). Blanch and set

::ril required (steps 9-10, Page 28).

-.rke the sauce gazpacho, blend the cherry tomatoes to a pur6e in a

:.).cssor or liquidizer, then rub through a sieve set over a saucepan'

r.:rrh'to reduce by half.Add the creatn plus the diced butter and the

:'rc again and rub through the sieve a second tinre. Season to taste

: .r:ide.

- - rl-re celeriac and cut into fine julienne strips. Heat tbout 2cnt/ltn

::t.rble oi1 in a deep saut6 pan, then fry the celeriac until golden-

:. .rnd crisp. l)rain r'veil.

.c'rve, prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves and arratlge in the centre of

.:ving dishes. Blanch the tortellini again for about 2 minutes tl.ren

.irrd arrange around the sa1ad. Mix the Tapenade with the t:rblespoon

. Finish the sauce gazpacho by rvarr-ning it through thetr spoot'r

'.rnd the tortellini, followed by the Tapenacle mixture. Arranse the

:.1c on top of each tortellini and serve straight au'ar'.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

% head teleriac

ue.ge table oil for.frying

Mixed Salad Leat,es (page 54)

1 tablespoonTdpuade (page 19)

1 tablespoon oliue oil

sea salt and _freshly ground hla& pepper

FORTHE TORTELLINI:

% x quantity (1259/15o2) homemade Pasta

Dough (page 27)

2 tablespoottsTomato Cttncasse (page 97)

859/ 3oz red pepper, uery Jinely diced

859/3oz courgette, uery Jinely diced

85,g/3oz aubergine, uery -flnely diced


1 large basil leaJ, sliced into,fine julienne

strips

200g/7oz young spinach leaves

50g/2oz /% cup pitted black oliues, pur[ed

FORTHE SAUCE GAZPACHO:

500g/1lb 2oz/4 cups ripe cherry tomdtoes

2 tablespoon double cream

50g/2oz/% sti& butter, diced


. g $g. s s& .$'s, st.:

84 PASTA AND RISOTTO

Cannelloni of crab in a shellfish soup

Somr propLe MAy FrND cANNELLoNT A ToucH HARDER To MAKE THAN

RAVIoLr sur ltHtNr rr rs woRTH pERSEVERtNG.THT rtltttc HERE rs MADE

FRoM FRESH, SHREDDED CRAB, HELD ToGETHER WITH A PUREE OF RAW

snLyoN.Tue FTNTSHED cANNELLoNT ARE THEN SERVED tN A soup oF scAL-

Lops AND oysrERs. SeRve ns A STARTER oR A MAIN couRsE.

I Have ready the Pasta Dough and FishVelout6 and set aside. For the can-

nelloni filling, blend the salmon to a fine pur6e in a food processor. If it is

easier, use more salmon than required, then weigh out the required

25g/1,oz.The remainder can be frozen.

2 Using a wooden spoon, cream the salmon pur6e in a bowl to soften.

Check the crab meat for any minute pieces of shell then beat it into the

salmon along with the basil, cream and seasoning. Spoon into a piping bag

with a plain 1.5cm,/%rn nozzle and set in the refrigerator to chill.

3 Roll out the pasta as for ravioli (page 29), then cut out four 10 x

15cm/4 x 6in strips. It is worth cutting out a few extra to allow for mis-

takes or excess frlling.

4 Bring a large pan of saltedwater to the boil,blanch the pasta sheets for

10 seconds then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water. Draln

and pat dry on a clean, dry tea towel.

5 Tear off a sheet of cling film for each pasta sheet, place the pasta on itthen pipe the filling, widthways, just above the centre. Roll up like a cigar

making sure it is nice and tight.Twist then knot the ends of the cling film

to seal; this will hold the filling in place. Place in the refrigerator to firm.

Repeat with the remaining sheets and filling.

6 When set, blanch the cannelloni, stil1 wrapped in cLing film, in gently

boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain.

7 For the soup, bring the Fish Velout6 up to the boil. Add the oysters

and poach them gently for about 30 seconds; add the scallops and

oyster juices. Heat for another 30 seconds then check the seasoning

and stir in rhe chervil.

8 To serve, unwrap the cannelloni and discard the cling film. Place one 1n

the centre of each warmed soup bowl, spoon over the oysters and scallops

and pour over the soup. Serve immediately.


FORTHE CANNELLONI:

about % x quantity (200g/7oz) homemade Pasta

Dough (page 27)

259/ 1oz fresh, raw salmon, beaten to a purte

100g/ 3%oz Jresh cooked white sab meat

1 teaspoon chopped basil

50mI/2Jl oz/'l cup double cream

FORTHE SOUP:

500m1/18J1oz/2 cups FishWloutl (page 14)

4 oysters, remoued from their shells, juites reserued

(page 3 5)

4 medium scallops, shelled, trimmed and washed

(page 40), chopped into jne dice

2 teaspoons chopped cheruil

sea sah and Jreshly ground bla& pepper


Risotto of tomato confit and roastedtrpte, BUT pERFEcr. Rtsorro ts A DEltctously coMFoRTtNG DtsH AND,

{C^iTRARY TO POPULAR OPINION, IT CAN BE MADE PARTLY IN ADVANCE

-i.€N FINISHED JUST AS YoU ARE ABoUT To SERVE. I pnrrrn To UsE THE

€reNnnolr cRAtN oF Rtsorro RtcE, BUT nN ARgoRro on VtnloNe

IIINo wILL oo. RIcr SIMPLY LABELLED ,RIsoTTo', WITHoUT A VARIETY

rrfiE, wrLL Nor HAVE THE sAME At DENTE etrr. THr METHoD BELow ts

IC'| COOKING RISOTTO IN ADVANCE OF SERVING BUT YOU CAN, OF

COJRSE, SERVE IT FRESHLY COOKED FOR A QUICK, SIMPLE MEAL.

I Pur the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage in a saucepan and bring to

*e boil. Set aside.

I In a medium saucepan, gently saut6 the shallots in 3 tablespoons of oil

irr rbout 2 minutes or until softened. Stir in the rice and cook for a fur-

{ter f rninutes to seal the rice.

t lor in the wine and deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid has reduced

* r svrupy consistency.

| \teanwhile, reheat the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage and bring to

* sntle simmer. Add to the rice one ladleful at a time, stirring well and

rriirng more stock only when each addition has been absorbed. Cook

rr:al just a touch soft, usually about 10 minutes.

t Srrain the rice through a sieve set over a bowl, reserving the liquid for

scr use. Spread the rice out on a tray. When it is cool, cover and set itr^je until ready to reheat and serve.

I -\leanwhile, slice the cdpes or mushrooms and heat 4 tablespoons ofcir-.-e oil in a frying pan. Saut6 the cdpes on both sides until golden brown,

&.ut 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside some of the

aedv shaped ones for use as a garnish. Reserve the pan juices.

| \t'hen ready to serve, have ready the Tomato Confit. Return the rice to

ae saucepan wtth 2 tablespoons of its reserved cooking liquid, stirring

*cll. Cook for about 3 minutes, adding extra liquid if the rice looks a

icje thick. Quickly mix in the mascarpone and the Parmesan, stirring

rcal light and creamy. Check the seasoning.

I nota in the Tomato Confit, the cdpes (except those reserved for the

prnish) and the herbs.

I Transfer the risotto to warmed bowls, garnish with the remaining cdpes,

ir':zle over the pan juices of the cdpes and serve straight away.

cePes

INGREDIENTS (for 3-4 as a main course)

FORTHE RISOTTO:

500m1/18fl oz/2 cups Chicken Stock (page 18)

orVegetable Nage (page 1j)

2 large shallots,fnely chopped


2009/7oz/1 cult risotto rice e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialone Nano

100m1/372fl oz/% cup dry white wine


259/1oz/% cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:

250g/9ozTomato Confit (page 98)

2009/7oz Jresh cipes or chestnut uariety of

mushrooms (champignons de Paris)


7 tablespoon each offinely chopped basil, chiues

and cheruil


{

86 PASTA AND lIISOTTO

Risotto of baby clams

Sovelvrs spEctALtry FtsHMoNGERs HAVE sMALL, LtcHT BRowN BABy

cLAMS FoR snle. lr you spor rHEM,THts ts AN TDEAL REctpE FoR EXpLotr-

ING THEIR SPECIAL QUALITIES.

I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.

2 Check the clams and discard any that are opened. Wash the clams in

plenty of cold water, scrubbing the shells rvith a snall brush and changing

the water two or three times. Drain. Place the cian-rs in a saucepan withthe wine and the bay leaf.

3 Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook the clams for 2-3 minures to

steam them open, shaking the pan once or twice. Remove from the heat

and discard any clants that have not opened. Drain through a colander set

over a bowl, reserving the juices.

4 When the clams are cool enough to handle, relnove the meat from the

shells and set aside.

5 tslanch the diced peppers briefly in boiling warer until just softened,

plunge into ice-cold rvarer and drain.

5 Make the risotto base in the same way as for the llisotto ofTornato

Confit and Roasted Cdpes (steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock fbr

the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage.

7 Cornplete the risotto (step 7, page 85) incorporating the reserved clanr

juices before adding the mascarpone and the Parmesan. Mix in the diced

peppers and the whipped cream. Reheat gently and check the seasoning.

8 Reheat the clams in a little stock and add the chives and basil.

Arrange the risotto in the centre of warmed plates and spoon around

the clams. Drtzzle over a little olive oil and garnish with chervil sprigs.

Serve straight away.

X


FORTHE RISOTTO:

500n1/18J1 oz/2 cups ltish Stock (page 14)

plus a little extra;for reheating

2 large shallots, jnely chopped

3 tablespoons oliue oil plus extra -for seruing

200g/7oz/1 cup risotto rice e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialonr Nano uarirty

50ml/2fl oz/% cup dry white wine

7 tablespoon mascarpone cheese

1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan chease

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:

2009/7oz Jresh baby clams

50ml/2fl oz/% cup dry white wine

1 bay lea;f

2 tablespoons skinned and fnely diced red peppcr

2 tablespoons skinned and-finely diced yellow pty:

50ml/2fl oz/% cup double cream, Iightly whippt:

1 teaspoon each of thopped chiues and basil

.few sprigs cheruil

sea salt and JreslLly ground black pepper

.:'r:*-

rlri;'

t:iii.il:.ii.t

.:::l -,:.iii:i:

,lll'l

-l

I

.ri' iia

1i_.,i'

isotto of herbs with roasted

-ADE ustNG THE BAslc Rlsorro METHoD As FoR rHe Rtsorro

-*-o Counr nruo Ronsteo CEpEs (nnce 85) ustNc Ftss Srocr

: cr CutcrrN Srocr oR VecetRgle Nnce, AND uslNc wHoLE

_:] PAN-FRIED SCALLOPS INSTEAD OT CEPCS. TgE SCRLLOPS CAN

.-f ED IN THIS DISH IN ONE OF THREE WAYS: EITHER WHOLE' IF BABY

,). SLICED IN HALF, SIUTECO QUICKLY IN OLIVE OIL AND SERVED

' oF THE RISOTTO, OR DICED AND SAUTEED IN OLIVE OIL THEN

] \ AT THE END.

. :e:rdy the Fish Stock and set aside.

-: rre using medium scallops either slice in half for use as a garnish

:irem so that they can be incorporated into the risotto. Set aside'

.. the risotto base in the same way as for the Risotto of Tomato

,nd Roasted Cdpes (steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock for

:-ken Stock orVegetable Nage.

: .r pan with a little oi1 then saut6 whole or sliced scallops for 1

. r:rch side, diced scallops for no more than 2 minutes, stirring fre-

,, : set aside.

::rplgls the risotto (step 7,page 85), adding the mascarpone and the

...rn. Mix in the whipped cream and the fresh herbs. Check the sea-

*. Ii using diced scallops stir them in at this stage. If using

.' or sliced scallops, use as a garnish. Serve the risotto on warmed

l)rizzTe round a little olive oi1 followed by the balsamic vinegar

Jr\-e straight away.


baby scallops


FORTHE RISOTTO:

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups Fish Stock (page 14)

2 large shallots,Jinely chopped

3 tablespoons oliue oil plus extra Jor sautbeing and

seruing

200g/7oz/1 cup risotto rite e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialone Nano varietY

5}ml/2J1 oz/% cup dry white wine


1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:

30 baby or 8-9 medium scallops, shelled, trimmed

and wdshed (page 10)

50ml/2J1 oz//, cup double cream,lightly whipped

1 teaspoon each of chopped tarragon, chives and

basil

2 rablespoons balsamit uinegar


' .::i rii: ;i

;ii il

I i';:t

i:

illr t|,i'

92 VEGETABLES

Ft . I | .ebratseo salstTy

WoruorRrul wrrH sEA BAss AND A vARrEry oF RoAsrED FrsH. You MAy INGREDIENTS (for 5-B)

HAVE To oRDER sALSrFy FRoM youR GREENGRocER oR MAvBE you 200m1/7fl oz/7,4 cup Fish Stock (page 14)

ALREADv cRow rr rN youR GARDEN.A yucn UNDERVALUED vEGETABLE. 500g/1lb 2oz salsify

700m1/1% pints/ j cups cold water

I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside. 100m1/ j|/zJl oz/% cup milk

2 Wash the salsify well, then peel, top and tail. Place immediately into a juice of 7 lemon

saucepan with the water, milk, lemon juice and rock salt. 1 tablespoon rock salt

3 Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave the salsify to 50g/2oz/% stickbutter

cool down in the rnilky water. 1 Jresh Bouquet Carni (page 18)

4 Drain, then cut tnto 4crn/1.I/zin bitons or thick julienne strips. Preheat sea salt and ground white pepper

the oven to 180"C,/350"F,/Gas Mark 4.

5 Heat the butter in a large, ovenproof frying pan or shallow, cast-iron

casserole. Add the salsi$r bAtons and fry gently until they start to colour a

little and cararneTize.

6 Pour in the Fish Stock to just cover the salsi$'. Stir, add the Bouquet

Garni and cook, uncovered, in the oven for L2-L4 nrinutes until the

liquid has evaporated and the salsi$r has become nicely glazed. Check the

seasoninE and serve.

Fr.ll.r5rarseo cn tcoryWHnr LrrrLE BTTTERNESSTHERE rs rN RAw cHrcoRy ts ELTMTNATED ByrHts INGREDIENTS (for 4-5 as an

COOKING PROCESS,WHICH ENSURES A SWEETISH EDGE.THE BRAISING ALSO accompaniment)

clVEs THE cHlcoRY HEADS AN ATTRACTIVE, SYRUPY GLAZE. SrRvr wtrs 200m1/ffl oz/'/' cup Chicken Stock (page 18,

sALMoN, LAMB oR RABBtr. or Fish Stock (page 14), to deglaze

8 medium heads chicory

I Have ready the Chicken or Fish Stock and set aside. 3 tablespoons Jresh lemon juice

2 Trim the chicory ofany bruised outside leaves, then trim the ends and 3 tablespoons caster sugar

use a small, sharp knife to remove the bitter core at the base of each head. 259/1oz/% stick butter

3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of sea salt andJreshly ground black pepper

the sugar and salt to taste. Blanch the chicory for 8-10 minutes and drain well.

4 Arrange the heads in a single layer on a platter, sprinkle with

the remaining sugar, and season with salt and pepper. Leave to cool for

about 10 minutes.

?t I I I .

-rlazeo DaDy ontons-:)E AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT FOR ROAST CHICKEN, LAMB OR GRILLED

- : THEY ARE AVAILABLE. CHOOSE SILVERSKIN ONIONS AS THEY HAVE

..:ST FLAVOUR.

- - "" L^-r^ -^--'r-' ^-rueeze each head to remove its bitter\(!ut ttdrlu). SqltLly \!

..n set each head aside, draining them on kitchen paper

:..cessary.

.'-.c frying prn set over.r moderately high hert. melr the burter

:r hot but not smoking, add the heads and brown evenly for about

:cs on each side.

.'r n.ith a little stock, shaking the pan gently to coat the heads.

:re onions and trim the roots.The peeling can be made easier by

:.q the onions first in boiling water for one minute. The skins

- rert slin off re;dilw Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F/Gas Mark,1.

:rc.rvy-based, ovenproof fiying pan. heat the butter and oil, add the

.rnd shake the pan well to coat them.

:rkle over the salt,add the bay leaf and thyme. then saut6 the onions

::rediunr heat until they rcquire a pale golden colour.

:rkle lightlv with sugar, and cover with a butter paper or a sheet

-'red greaseproof paper. Transfer to the oven. Cook for about 20

litting rhe p:per and turning rhe onion. every 5 mirruter or

-ril the onions are tender in the centre and beginning to caramelize.

'. 'h" h,' l".f '.,.1 th. '1g th€'n 5e'1ye'.

VEGETAtsLES 93

INGREDIENTS (for 8)

4009/1402 baby onions, ideally siluerskin

159/% oz butter

7 teaspoon oliue oil

1 tahlespoon rock salt

1 bay leaJ

1 sprig thyme

a little caster sugdt, to sprinkle

94 VEGETABLES

Shallot confitTHrs ls usED tN so MANy RECIpES tN THrs BooK THAT tr IS woRTH t4AK-

tNG up A BATCH To sroRE tN THE REFRtcERAToR. lr ts,RrtrR ALL.nru 'ncr'

FLAVoURTNG, ESpEcTALLy wHEN SIRRED tNTo vrNArcRETTE. THe coNrtr

rs BEST wHEN cooKED ovER THE LowEsr HEAT possrBle. llrouR DoMES-

TIC HOB DOES NOT PERI4IT SUCH CONTROL, THEN PLACE THE PAN ON

A METAL HEAT-DIFFUSER.

I Using a 1arge, sharp, cook's knife, chop the shallots into very fine djcc.

2 Place in a heavy-based saucepan rvith the oil, a light sprinkling of sa1t,

the thyn-re and bay leaf.

3 Set the pan over medium heat until the oil becomes hot, then adjust

the heat to its lorvest possible setting and continue to cook the shaltots

until they are meltingly tender - about 2 hours. Set aside to cool. Store in

a screw-top jarin the refrigerator.wherc thc confit will keep for up to one

week, or, if covered with a layer of olive oi1, for up to a month.

Potato rostiPe Rrrcr AS A LrcHT cRrsp AccoMpANTMENT To MEAT, FtsH oR vEGETABLES.

You cnN xnrr Pornro ROsrr nN HouR oR Two AHEAD AND ETTHER

KEEP THEM WARM, UNCOVERED IN A VERY LOW OVEN, OR REHEAT AS

REeurRED. Cuoosr A wAXy porATo, sucH As MLRts Ptpen oR Prcnsso,

THAT wtLL HoLD lrs sHApE DURTNG FRyrNG.We coorc THESE FouR AT A

TrME uslNc l0cv/4rr.r DTAMETER METAL currERS pLACED rN A LARGE FRy-

tNG pAN. HowEVER, tr vou ooN't HAVE ENoucH currERS oF THE sAME

stzE, stMPLY I'IAKE THEM ONE AT e rtme.Ttrv TAKE JUST MTNUTES TO COOK.

I Clarify two-thirds of the butter. To do this, melt the butter slowly in a

smal1 pan, leave to stand olTthe heat for 2 minutes then carefully pour off

the clear fat into a bowl, leaving behind the milky deposits, which can be

thrown away. Cool.

2 Using a mandolin or the julienne cutter disc on yor-rr food processor,

grate the potatoes into long thin julienne strips. Dry the strips by putting

them into a clean cloth and squeezrnq hard.Trarrsfer to a large bowl.


250m1/9fl ozll cup)

8-10 large shallots, roots ttimmed

150m1/% pint/% cup extra-uilgin oliue oil

rock salt

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

859/3oz/% stick butter

500g/1lb 2oz waxy potatoes, peeled

sea salt

:: \\'ith salt to taste, then mix in the clarified butter. Leave to cool

rrrake the mixture easier to handle.

, heavy-based frying pan until hot, then stand one or more plain

::crs inside it. Press a quarter of the potato mixture down inside

:rr-to make a neat round shape.As each Potato Rosti cooks, siide

:..rb of the remaining br-rtter down the side.

. rhe underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes, remove the

::cr and flip over the Rosti with a palette knife. Cook the other

, tirther 2-3 minutes or until crisp. Repeat with the remaining

ld butter.Transfer the Rcisti to kitchen paper towels and keep in..I ',-. ', '. ril '.^' 'i '..1

Potato pu r6e

- FTS MASHED POTATOES TO NEW HEIGHTS! THE SECRET LIES

*fOSING A FLOURY VARIETY OF POTATO SUCH AS DESINET OR

- 1'.O, CUTTING THE POTATOES INTO EVEN-SIZED CHUNKS FOR

, :ooKtNG, AND, FtNALLY, lN USTNG A MOULI FOOD-lYlLL OR A

.. : -RICER FOR THE PUREEING.

:..c the chunks of potato well beneath cold running water to

.: excess starch. Place them in a large saucepan, cover with cold

- r.'id a tablespoon of salt and bring to the boil. Simmer gently until

: usualiy 12-15 minutes. Drain the chunks wel1, return the

' i\ to the pan, then set over gentle heat and shake the pan until any

. \\-ater has evaporated.

i^ ..illr-, pur6e the potatoes through a mouli food*mi11 or a potato-ricer.

::r.rtively, use a heavy masher but do not use a food processor, or the

',,-. .^rill trrrn otrrerz" b'*.-/'

. ., .eparate \aucepdn. boil the creJnl to reduce by half. Off rhc hear.

:he cream into the potato puree. then beat in the butter, nutmeg

.itsonlng to taste.

VEGETABLES 95


lkgl?'/olbl4 cups)

4 large potatoes, weighing about 1kg/21/,1b, peeled

and cut into 5cm/2in chunks

150m1/% pint/'l cup double cream

859/3oz/% stick unsalted butter, diced

;freshly grated nutmeg


cmato

)mato concasse

. SEEDED AND FINELY DICED TOMATOES MAKE AN INVALUABLE

.. TO MANY OF IYY RECIPES. TOIVNTO CONICRSST IS ALMOST

-:-' ADDED TOWARDS THE END OF MAKING A DISH, EITHER STIRRED

" :IUCE OR USED AS A GARNISH. USE RIPE, FULL.FLAVOURED PLUM

:: wHERE POSSIBLE.

: .i snall, sharp knife, cut the core from the stalk end of each

'.::n slash the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. Place the

rn a bowl and cover with boiling rvater.'Wait a minlrte or two

. .krns start to curl, then drain off the water, run the tomatoes

.l \\'ater and skin.

rrc tomatoes in half, remove the seeds and inner flesh then chop

urto very fine dice. Place in a bowl, cover and set aside in the

:.irl r'equired.

VEGETABLES 97

INGREDIENTS (makes about 300g/ | 0t/zoz:

2 tomatoes will make about lO0gl3t,/zozl

4 tablespoons)

500g/1lb 2oz ripe plum tonatoes

INGREDIENTS (makes about 500m1/l pint)

1kg/2'/tb ripe tomdtoes, preferably plum, skinned

100m1/3'/,J1 oz/% up extrd-uirgin oliue oil

3 shallots, sliced

2 cloues garlic, crushed

7 Bourluet Carni (page 18)

STORAGE

Tre runEe wul KEEe FoR up ro 3 on'rs rN A scREw-Top JAR

IN THE REFRIGERATOR, LONGER IF COVERED WITH A LAYER OF

OLIVE OIL. IT MAY ALSO BE FROZEN - IN BATCHES OF ABOUI

l00t'ttl3|4rt ozlt/2 cup - FoR up ro 2 MoNTHs.

Pu ree

: )IFFERENT FROM CANNED TOMATO PUREE! THIS IS MUCH LIGHTER

.-JRE AND COLOUR,WITH A LOVELY FRESH FLAVOUR. IT IS PARTICU-

:ooD MrxED |NTO AUBERGTNE CAVIAR (elcr l0l). lr YOU HAVE

:{SlL OR PARSLEY STALKS, ADD THEM DURING COOKING SO THEY

" :_ ADDITIONAL FLAVOUR.

:::rt the oven to 180'C/350"F,/Gas Mark 4. Quarter the tomatoes,

.::.card the seeds and core. Chop the flesh into large dice.

,r the oi1 in a cast-iron or ovenproof saucepan and gently fry the

:. and garlic fot 3-4 minutes until softened but not coloured.

:.1 the tomatoes, Bouquet Garni and herb stalks if using. Cover

::.rnsfer to the oven for about 50-60 minutes or until softened.

,r'e the Bouquet Garni and any herb stalks. Blend the tonrato

' :rc to a smooth pur6e in a food processor. Cool and use as required.

98 VEGETABLES

Tomato confitDrscs or roMATo FLEsH ARE sLowly MAcERATED lN A LowFRAGRANT OLIVE OIL, GARLIC AND AROMATIC THYME FOR A

GARNISH OR ACCOMPANIMENT.

OVEN WITH

DELICIOUS

I Using a small, sharp knife, cr,rt the core from the stark end of eachtomato, then slash the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. place thetomatoes in a bor.vl and cover with boiling water. wait a mi'ute or rwountil the skins start to curr, then drain off the water, run the tomatoesunder cold water and skin.

2 Preheat the oven to the lor.vest possible setting, around gO"C/170"F/Gas Mark Lor'. Harve and seed the skinnecl tomatoes then cut ourthe inner ribs.

3 Using a round or oval pastry cutter, about 1cm/1.%in in diameter, cutout one shape per tomato half. Lay flat, skinned side up, on a small shal_low tray and trickle nith olive oil.4 Scatter over rhe garlic srivers. pick the reaf tips o{r the sprig of thymeand sprinkle over the tonlatoes then place in the oven.

5 Leave for 1-2 hours, brushilrg once or twice with the orive oil, until thetomatoes have sofrened but stiil hord their shape. Season with groundblack pepper, cool, the' rransfer to a dish. cover and chiil until required.

INGREDf ENTS (makes TSgt2%ozt% cup)6 large plum tomatoes

oliue oil, to drizzle ouer

2 cloues garlic, peeLed and cut in sliuers

1 larqe sprig thyme

freshly ground black pepper

,i.rt ri.. 11.,, :ii:,-a::

l:1,,

I OO VEGETAtsLES

Little stuffed cabbage leaves

We srnve rHESE AS A GARNIsH FoR PIGEoN BUT THEY ARE ALso GooD

wtrH A RANGE oF PouLTRY, GAME AND MEAT DlsHEs. Encg BALL oF

CABBAGE LEAF ENCLOSES A LITTLE OF OUR MIXTURE FOR THE TCRRINE OT

Fore Gnns wtrH CnNnno CoNrtr (pr,ce 63).Ar uour,You coulD usE

youR owN CREAMY pArE vtxrunE AND, INDEED,vEGETARIANS MIGHT LIKE

TO SUBSTITUTE A FINELY CHOPPED MUSHROOM AND HERB MIXTURE.

I Blanch the cabbage leaves irr boiling salted r,varer for about 15 secor.rds

until just rvilted, then plunge into ice-cold water to refresh thern and keep

the colour.

2 Pat dry in a clean c1oth. IJsing a plain 7.5cm/3in cuttcr, cut or-rt .rbout

24 circles from the leaves, avoiding the hard stalks.

3 Soften the mixture of the Terrine of Foie Gras r'vith Canard Confit or

liver pit6 and beat in the cream, chervil and seasoning,if liked. Spoon into

a piping bag rvith a small, plain nozzle.

4 Cut off a piece of cling fih-n large enough to completely wrap one

cabbage leaf, about 20cm,/8in lons. Arrange a cabbage leaf in the

centre of the cling film, then put this in the palm of your hand. Pipe about

1 small teaspoon of foie gras or pXt6 into the centre of the leai Draw up

the edges of the cling film rvith the leaf to tnake a ball shape, wrapplng

tightly so there are no air-pockets, and tr,visting the excess cling fi1m into

a top-knot. Repeat urrtil all the leaves are filled and r.vrapped.

5 Blanch the leaves in boiling r,vater for 3 ninutes. Drain and, whel cool

enough to handle, cut off the cling film and serve.

Creamed parsley

SrRve ns A GARNtsH FoR PAN-FRIED BEEF FILLETS, oR TRY lr wHlsKED lNTo

Frsu VrlourE (ence l4) ns n vIBRANT PARTNER FoR coD.

I Pick off the stalks from the parsley and spinach, then wash the leaves

thoroughly and drain.

2 Bring a pan of water to the boil and blanch the parsley and spinach for

about 4 minutes, adding the parsley first, then the spinach 1 minute later'

INGREDIENTS (makes about24 little balls'

enough for 5-8)

12 larye mbbage leaues, pre;ferably Sauoy

150g/ 5oz Tbrrine of Foie Gras with Canard Conli

(pagc 63) or sfttooth liuer pdti

2 teaspottns cream

1 teaspoort chopped cheruil

sea salt dnd -freshly ground blatk pepper

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

2 large bunches curfuJeaf pdrsley, weighing ab,

100g/3%oz

100g/ 3%oz large spirLdch leaues

5}ml/2Jl oz/',4 cup double creant


VEGETABLES IOI

l -r:rrn well, but do not refresh in cold water. To dry the leaves.*r:rruqhly, place them in a clean tea towel and wrap up tightly, squeezing

,rrr :li the water.

| -:: .r small saucepan, boil down the cream until reduced by half.

I ur.rnrvhile, put the parsley and spinach into a food processor

,*.: rlend to a pur6e. Add the reduced cream and seasoning to taste.

,,, .:. lnd use as required.

Aubergine caviarll'-osr rHE IDEAL ALL-ROUND VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT, THrs soFT-

drr€D AUBERGINE FLESH HAS SO MANY USES: SPOONED tNTO BABY

ILE€RGINE SHELLS, IT MAKES AN EXCELLENT PARTNER FoR RoAsT LAMB AND*id ROASTED FISH SUCH AS FIRM-FLESHED MONKFISH. Ir IS NISO A VERSA-

-t! BASE FOR A RANGE oF VEGETARIAN MAIN coURsEs, AND, MIXED wITHI..TTLE GRATED, FRESH HoRSERADISH, IT EVEN MAKES A GooD STARTER.

I Preheat the oven to 220"c/425"F/Gas Mark 7. Halve the aubergine

rr-gh'rvays, score the flesh and sprinkle both cut sides with sait.

I Llr- the garlic and rosemary on one half, sandwich with the other. theno::p rvell in foil.

t lJake for about 45 minutes, rhen lower the heat to 110"C/230"F/

'i' Mark %,andbake for a further 20 minutes until the skins have sh.v-: ed. the shells have collapsed and the flesh is completely soft.

{ Unrvrap, scrape out the garlic and rosemary and discard. Scoop

::t the aubergine flesh onto a board. When cool enough to handle,

-:op the flesh very finely with a large sharp knife and piace the pulp in a

':rllow saucepan.

3 over a medium heat, stir the pulp until its excess moisture has evapo-:ircd, leaving the pulp - or'caviar'- perfectly dried out. (Jse as required.


450mll% pint/l% cups)

1 medium aubergine

rock salt

1 large cloue garlic, partially uushed

1 sprig rosemary

rue always been ;fascinated by fish and and they are a major part

1n)t menu, especially in the summer. Maybe sheer diuersity of their uari-

; that excites ffi€, their creatiue potential deriued from the uibrancy of their

)ttrs) uariation of textures and range o;f Jlauours.

When I go out to eat, most of the time I choose fish, perhaps because,

',onsciously, I prefer a fish cawght the Tsreuious doy to d three-week-old brrf,'t. When I cook with fish, I tike to keep the dish simple anil tamper with

:s little ds possible, roasting the;fish just tuith oil and lemon, ot, steaming ouer

:r'ell-flauoured cowrt-bouillon. I also spend a lot of time preparing Jish,

'ttrning, checking meticulowsly for pin bones, then wrapping in cling;fitm anil

lling before cookirg - a process that enhances the shape and;firms the flesh.

My fauourite fish is sea bass - inJact, it's my signature dish - seyued with

isht uanilla ueloutt sauce. But I also harbour a great loue for shellfish anil buy

-ir of my supplies -fno* Scotland, including Belon oysters with tlteir big, ilark

seafood,

it's the

I

le mus

,'//s, so fresh they are dfficutt to prise open. Scallops I buy,fno* suppliers who herd

'lter than farm them and, again, so fresh that when opened they still pulsate.

scallops: the skirt is used in a stock: the small

'ruder to JTauour risottos ;

trr-fried, often split in tuto

t6 sauces; the coral is dried and ground to a

and, finally, the suteet main mectt

,fin

cles

d ;four good uses

are added to u

-fon

elou

,s

i;f uery medt))

usually lightly

fillet of sea bass with ius vanille

!*g xls BEEN A spEcrAlrry FoR us EVER srNcE wE opENED. Sove wour-o

Itr 'T

HAS BECOME OUR SIGNATURE DISH, AND MANY REGULAR CLIENTS

n6 TNADVANcETo FtND oUTwHETHER tr ts oNTHE MENU. I rtnsr rxpr-

IF€ED TTASAN rDEA rN Pnnts,wHrRe rrwAs LoBSTERTHATWAS BErNG

|tr.rtD rN PARTNERSHIp wtrH A vANILLA sAUcE. I relr rur FLAVoURS

ffi"ILD BE QUITE FANTASTIC ENHANCED WITH BRAISED SALSIFY, WHICH IS

,|r ,TS BEST IN THE AUTUMN. WHEN SALSIFY IS OUT OF SEASON, I SOVE-

Fcgs SERVE THE SEA BASS oN A BED oF SPINACH oR,ns I PREFER WHEN IT

{i TVAILABLE, Swtss culRo - AN UNDERRATED vEGETABLE THAT REeutREs

a'E CHAMproNtNG.Asr youn FTsHMoNGER To FILLET THE BAss BUT Nor

-rD sx'rN rr As rHE sKrN HAs A BEAUTTFUL SILVER-cREv sueeru rulr I rrre@ SHOVV OFF IN THE PRESENTATION OF THE DISH.

I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.

I Cut the sea bass fillets into 4'tranches', or neat slices, then very

fo6irth' score the skin with a sharp knife. This will help the skin to

*-rrntelize during cooking and also prevent it from curiing. If preparing

pcrd. rvrap tightly in cling film (righr).

t Strain the Fish Stock through a fine sieve into a saucepan and bring

* to the boil. Split the vanilla pod open and scrape the seeds into the

rrx stock, followed by the pod. Leave the stock to cool completely and

*hc vanilla to infuse, then boil down to reduce by one-third. Remove

rad discard the pod.

I To prepare the salsifii, peel it thinly, then immediately drop it into cold

crter with a little of the lemon juice added to prevent discoloration.

Etrnch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, drain, refresh in ice-cold

*rter and drain again. Pat dry and cut into neat bitons.

LVelt half the butter in a saucepan and add a ladleful of the vanilla-

C.rroured stock. Bring to a light boil, toss i.n the salsify bitons and cook

gnril the stock has reduced to a glossy glaze. Stir in one-third of the

rmaining butter. The bitons should be lightly coloured; if they are not,

;ook for a further minute or so. Set aside.

FISH AND SEAFOOD I05

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14)

7 sea bass weighing just over 1kg/2lb 4oz,

-fllleted but not skinned

1 large uanilla pod

4009/14o2 saki;fy

juice of 1 lemon

50g/2oz/'y' stick butter plws dn extra knob of

irc-cold butter for fnishing the sauce

8 whole baby fennel bulbs or 1 large bulb, halued,

cored and sliced

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

about 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon double cream

sea salt,freshfu ground black pepper and My Special

Pepper Mix (page 105)

MAKING FISHTRANCHES:

TntvvtNc AND yET MoRE TRn4tytNG - THts ts rHE sEcRET oF

GooD pRESENTATToN, EspEcrALLy ron rrsu.Tntv rHE stDEs

OF FISH FILLETS WITH A SHARP KNIFE TO NEATEN THEI4 INTO

REcTANGULAR sgepes. lr rHE FILLETS ARE LARGE, cur tNTo

REcTANGLES EAcH ABour 7.5 x l0cm/3 x 4rN. Wup

IIGHILY IN CLING I-ILIY AND CHILL TO SET THE SHAPE.

UNwRnp BEFoRE cooKrNG.

s-.F.ttf?gf,fe F$f-i; ?a i'

"-s PP s-

*

I06 FISH AND SEAFOOD

6 Melt another third of the butter in a medium pan and cook the fenneluntil nicely coloured. Add another ladlefur of the vanilla stock ro the panalong with the thyme and the bay

'eaf, cover and braise over a gentle heat

for 8-10 minutes. Set aside.

7 When you are ready to cook the bass, preheat the oven ro200"c/400'F/Gas Mark 6. Remove the cling firm if you have used it rowrap the fish fillets' Heat the o' in a heavy-based frying pan with heat-proof or removable handles _ suitable for the oven.I Season the bass with salt, pepper anci the remaining lemon juice. Addthe last third of rhe butrer to the pan. When ir has sropped foamilg,add the bass skin-side down. Cook for about 3_,1 minutes, then flip thefillet: over.

9 tansfer the pan to tne oven to cook3-4 minutes. The flesh should feei justliquid should have evaporated. Season

Mix (right).

| 0 To make the sauce, reheat the remai'ing van'ia stock and stir in thecream. Reheat the salsify bitons and the fennel in their separate pans.Divide the fennel between each warmed plate. put the fish on top, skrn_side up- Arrange the sarsify bitons around the bass in a circre.| | To finish rhe sauce, add the knob ofice-cold butter and reheat in thesaucepan' frothing with a Bamix (see page 1gg for supplier) or hand-herdelectric muiti-blentler. Spoon the frothy sauce over the fish and drizzle theremainder lightly over the salsify.

MY SPECIAL PEPPER MIX:IN A SIYALL BOWL MIX EQUAL QUANTITIES OF WHITE AND

BLACK pEppERcoRNs.Toss tN soME coRtANDER sEEDs,

2-3 sren ANIsE AND A FEw wHoLE GREEN cARDAMor4

poos. FuNNel lNTo A pEppER rlrll AND GRTND FRESHLy

WHENEVER REQUIRED.

the flesh side of the fillets, also forfirrn and lightiy springy, and any

the bass with My Special pepper


Confit of tuna in red wine sauce*:,F STEAK. oF TUNA ARE MEATY EN.UGH To BE cooKED C.NFIT-'TYLEn :,_cK oR GoosE FAT THEN SERVED wtrH FULL_BootEo Rro Wrrue{A-.::. TUTRE nRT MANY VARIETIES oF TUNA, BUT WE UsE THE FRE'HEST

l,-{*.lN STEAKS FROM THE SOUru or Fnnucr.

I ::-i'c ready the Red'wine Sauce and set asicre.f}im the tuna steaks into:r;' .hapeS if necessary.

I .':rboil the potatoes until almost cooked but still firm, then drain and, , Cut into even slices for saut6eing; set aside.

t llclt one-third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan rnith harf the:. iod, when hot, saut6 the onions, sprinkling over the icing sugar andr:-:!.9 occasionally, for about 10 minutes or until caramelized andr jen brown. Remove and keep warm.I iJhnch the beans and asparagus separarery in iightry salted boiiing water:.:::l cooked but just firm. Drain and set aside in a warm piace.t Heat the remaining butter and o' in a saut6 pan and saut6 the potatoes: ::rl qolden brown and crisp, turning occasionally so they colour evenly.:irn, sprinkle with parsley and seasoning and keep warm. Meanwhile,

-::cat the RedWine Sauce in a small saucepan and keep hot.I \\/hen you are ready to cook the tuna, heat the duck or goose fat in a

::ep-sided frying pan to a meclium heat of about 65"c/160"E or until a:re of day-old bread browns in about 1 minure.

? (look the tuna steaks, submerging them under the fat, for about:-" minLltes'-when cooked, they shourd be pale brown on the outside,::,'ely pink inside, and lightly springy to touch. Drain well on(::.hen paper towels.

I To serve, arrange a bed of potatoes in the centre of each warmed plate;::d place a tuna steak on top ofeach. Spoon the onions, beans and aspara_:-rs around the edge then spoon over the hot Red wine sauce and serve.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1 x quantity Red Wine Sauce (p,tst 2 | t

4 x 180g/6oz Jresh tuna stedks, skirtttct/ i/-rrt.i,._.-,,rr;.

500g/ 1lb 2oz new potatoes, scrrtbbed

859/3oz/% stick buuer


150g/5%oz baby onions, peeled

2 teaspoons icing sugar

200g/7oz;t'resh whole green beans, trimmed

300g/10o2 aspdragus tips, trimmed

2 teaspoons chopped parsley

5 00nl / 1 8fl oz / 2 cups duck or goose ;fatsea salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

I08 FISH AND SEAFOOI)

Dorade with pesto sauceoNe op rur MToTT.RRANEAN FrsH TRADTTT.NALL' AssocrATED wrrH A clAssrcBOUILLABAISSE, DORADE, OR GILT-HEAD BREAM, IS ALSO DELICIOUS SERVED SIMPLYROASTED OR PAN-FRIED, AS IN THIS NECIPE. FINE IN TEXTURE, IT IS SIMILAR TO SEABASS AND SOMETIMES EASIER TO FIND, ALTHOUGH RED OR BLACK BREAM I.4AKEGOOD SUBSTITUTES IF DORADE IS UNOBTAINABLE, IF FILLETING FISH IS NOT YOURFORTE, ASK THE FISHMONGER TO DO THIS FOR YOU.

I Trirn the dorade fillets neatlv, then check for a'y fine pi' bo'es ancl rernovethese with t\\'eezers. rJsing the tip of a sharp kni't, score trre skin carefulll. aGw tinres to pre\-ent the fish fronr curLns as it cooks. pick the leaf ,flou.ers,

off one of the thvnre sprigs ancl scatter over the flesh. Cover and clill.2 Have ready the potato lrur6e, pesro and Fish stock. Reheat the pur6e andkeep warm.Thin do*.n the pesto rvith the Fish Stock a'cl set aside.3 Prepare the artichokes in the same wav as for the \,,e1out6 of Artichokesw-ith Fois Gras (step 2,p.a.ge 47').

4 Place the flour in a bou4 and seasorr rver1. I)rair the artichoke srices, patdr,r' 3t 6 toss in the flour to coat iigl_rtlr,,.

5 Heat a little of the o'i'a non-stick fi1.ing pan and sar.rt6 the artichokeswith the garlic u't'.iust render. Seasor lightly trren renro\re a'd keep u,arnr.5 'wipe

the pa' clean using kitclien papel: towels and heat a rittle r'ore o'the oi1 unril verv hot, then quickly sar-rt6 the diced scallops untri crisp; thisshould taken no r.nore than I nrinute. Renrove and keep rvarr.n.7 Reheat the pan rvith the renrai'ing o'. Seasor-r the doracre and then placeskin-side dou'n in the hot pan. cook the fish for about 5 mi'ures or u'tila''ost done (it shor-rld be srightil'spring'a'd the skin crisp) rhen turn overand cook the flesh sicle tor about 2 rrinrltes.I To serve' heat the pesto. M* the chives i'to the potato pur6e and spoo'onto the cent.e of each prate. pour the Iresto arounci the potato a'd spri'klethe diced' fried scatops and artichoke s'ces o'er the sauce. Arrange the fishon top of the potato. ga'rish rvith sprigs of t:rrragon and thvnre, a'c' sprirkleover the chopped parsle1,.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)1 u,httle dor.ade , about g00g/ 1th 120:

-fiLleted rreatly in ttutt

.f-eu spri,qs thyme

about t./. quantity porato purie (page 95)2 rnblespoous pesto (page 191

2-3 tdblespoons lii,tft J;e6p (pdgc 1l)8 baby gloLte artichokes

luice o.f % lemon

n little plain -flour,.for coatius

about 3 tahlespoorrs oliuc oil1 cl.ot,e gdrl.ic, peeled nrtd cruslrcd

2 rnedium scallops, sltelletl, trimnrcd and u,it,(page 10) then diced

: tdblt:pnatrs cltoyptd ,:lriu,.s

sprigs o.f tarragon

2 teLtsl:oons cltoppet! parsley

sea snlt and-freshly ground black pepper

t:: .ir:, i,.l

Blanquette of with oyster

IIO FISH AND SEAFOOL)

A RecrpE THAT rNsptRED ME wHrLE woRKrNG roR PtERne KorrNnN nr Ln

TnNrr Cnrnr. I lrrrrHE MARRTAGE oF oySTERSAND LtrrLE cucuMBER BALLs

wtrH THE MEATy ruRBor. lN ruts RECTPE FREsH PASTA ts usED tN Two DtF-

FERENT wAys,To ENCLosE AN oysrER RAVtoLt AND FoR THE FREsH Tncltnrrlle,

ALTHoucH you coulD usE GooD euALlry READy-MADE tncltnrellr. FoR

A SIMPLER DISH,THIS COULD BE MADE WITHOUT THE RAVIOLI.

I Have ready the Fish Stock, hornemade Pasta Dough and Tagliatelle, ifusing, and the FishVelout6 and set aside.

2 Peel the cucumber then, using a very small melon baller, cut

out as many cucumber bal1s as possible from the flesh, discarding the

seeds. Blanch the balls in boiline u.ater. drain and refresh in ice-cold

water and set aside.

3 Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling water for about 1 minute, or

until just u''i1ted. Drain and refresh in cold water then drain again. Set aside.

4 For the ravioli, ro11 out the Pasta Dough and, using a 10cm/4in cutter,

stamp out 8 circles to make 4 ravioli (steps 1-4, page 29). Blanch the

oysters in a litt1e simmering Fish Stock for just 30 seconds. Remove with

a slotted spoon. Allor'v to cool, then use the oysters as a filling for the

ravioli. Make sure the edges are well sealed. Blanch the ravioli in salted

boiling water for about 1 minute then drain and keep w'arm.

5 Gently poach the turbot in the remaining Fish Stock for about 4-5

minutes or until it is about three-quarters cooked. Remove the fi1lets care-

fu1ly with a slotted spoon and and keep warm. Boil the stock until syrupy

and reduced by about two-thirds.

5 Stir in the FishVelout6 and return to the boil, cooking for about 2 min-

utes.Add the turbot fillets to this sauce and reheat for a further 2 minutes.

7 Cook the homemade Tagliatelle in boiling water for 30 seconds. If you

are using ready-made, fo11ow the pack instructions. Toss in half the butter

and place in mounds in the centre of each plate. Reheat the cucumber and

spinach separarcly in the renraining butter.

I Place the turbot fillets on top of the Tagliatelle and sit a ravioli on ton

of that. Spoon the cucumber and spinach around the fish and pasta.

9 Reheat the FishVelout6, season with lemon juice, salt and pepper, stir-

ring in the herbs and any oyster juice just at the last moment. Pour the

sauce over the ravioli and turbot and serve at once.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Fish Stock (page 11)

% x rluantity (110g/4%oz) homemade Pasta

Dough (page 27) for the rauioli

250g/9oz homemade Thgliatelle (page 29) or

Jresh ready-made

350m1/12J1 oz/1% cups Fish Wlout[ (page 11

1 large cucumber

200g/7oz young spinach leaues

4 large oysters, remoued ;fi'om their shells, juices

reserued (page 35)

4 x 150g/5oz turbot.fiIlets


squeeze of lemon

t heaped teaspoon each chopped cheruil and clt:

sea salt and ground white peppet

ravio I itu rbot

ioasted monkfish with boulangdre potatoes.'.:ATY MONKFISH TEAMS WELL WITH TUC FNEruCH COUNTRY STYLE OF

. :CTATOES, BAKED IN ROUNDS AND SERVED SIMPLY WITH FISH JUICES,

-y oLtvE olL AND LEMoN 1urce. loenllv,you wrLL NEED HoT.4EMADE

. =OR THIS RECIPE, BUT FAILING THAT YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE A VERY

)OLUTION OF GOOD BOUILLON POWDER AND BOILING WATER.

- ready the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage.

. - sure all the grey merlbrane is removed from the nronkfish as this

,use the fish to curl and cook unevenll-. If necessarr,-, slice it offrvith

: rhin knife. Tear off 4 sheets of greaseproof paper large enor.rgh to

:rrcel for each fillet. Brush the sheets lightly r.vith sottened butter.

,'.rt the oven to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Season the fillets then

-.:lv in flor-rr. Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan and quick-

:le fish all over until just golden brou'n.

:' each fillet in a sheet of the paper', ts-istlns the ends to seal. Place

^--r *-^-^r^- to the oven for B-9 minutes.vL15 Lrr)

:.c the fish is cooking, slice the potatoes thinlv into rounds about

rn thick. r-rsing either a rnandolin, the slicer blade of a food proces-

, rharp knife. Place in a borvl, season r,r'e11, then scatter the chopped

.;r11 shallots on top.

: I circles of gre:rseproof p.rper erch 8crrr/3 rin in diameter. Brush

-lcs lvith olive oil and place in a small, shallorv roasting tin.Arrange

:.rto slices, together with the shallots and garlic, in overlapping slices

:r paper circle.

.:r over the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage:rnd bring to a simmer on

:. of the stove. Dot the potatoes with butter, then transfer the tin to

:n lor around 10 r-ninutes or until golden bros'n.'When cooked,

:lre slices in the stock.

-ik the fish is cooked b1' pressing the thickest part of the fillet firm-

r voul finger. If it is firm and not at all springy tl.ren it is read.v.

,s' the fish to stand in the prper for ; feu minutes rvhile you slide

,r.rtoes frorn their paper bases using a fish slicc ontr) \\-rrm servrng

Unwrrp the fish. slice each fillet into ,l-6 rouncls ancl place on top

potatoes. Trickle over any juices frorn the potato tin and from the

',rcels.

tprinkle 1en'ron juice and olive oil over the fish ancl potrLtoes. :rncl

..r ri irh the sprigs of rrrrugorr and par.ler.

FISH ANI) SEAFOOD III

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

4 x 300g/ 10oz ntonklish fllets, skinned

soJtened hu tter,,for .qrea si np

oliue oil .for.li'yin.q plus extra.for ,qreasins

a littl, ylaitt J1,,ur.-[,,r -.tarittq

sea salt and,freshly qtound hLdtk peplter

FORTHE POTATOES:

250nrl/9_fl oz/ 1 tult Fi,s/r Srorfr (page 14) or

W,getable Ndgc (pdge 13)

1 medit.rm potdtoes, each wd,ghing about 2009/702,

peekd

2 tktues garlt, peeled and jn.ely tholtpcd

4 shallots, -fin ely choppcd

259/1oz/l stick burter

TO SERVE:

juice o-i'/ lcnton

a lirtle oliuc oil

sprigs o;f tarragon and.11at-leaJ' 1:drsle1,

toasted monkfish with red wine sauce

FISH AND SEAFOOD I I3

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

1 x cluantity RedWine Sauce (page 21)

Shredded Leeks, to garnish (page 180)

4 x 150g/ 5oz monkfsh Jillets

% teaspoon Jiue-spice powder

1 tablespoon oliue oil plus extra to serue

FORTHE RISOTTO:

200m1/7fl oz/% cup Chicken Stock (page

509/2oz/% cup risotto rice e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialone Nano uariety

2 tablespoons double cream


1 teaspoon each of chopped basil and chiues

,ili: :'

.. rtsH ts A GooD MEATv FtsH AND cAN TAKE A FULL_FLAVouRro Reo

. SRUCE.WHV ruOr? IT CENTRIruLV WORKS WELL IN THE RESTAURANT.

JIJCE CAN BE MADE IN ADVANCE AND THEN REHEATED,AS CAN THE

. -. {I'4OUNT OF RISOTTO THAT ACCOMPANIES IT.

: ready the Red'W'ine Sauce, Chicken Stock and Shredded Leeks

: rside.

::: the monkfish fillets neatly, taking care to remove the grey mem_,' this could cause the fish to curl ifleft on during cooking. sprinkle

-::c five-spice powder and set aside in the refrigerator.

::::ke the risotto, simmer the rice in the Chicken Stock for about 12

::. or until it isjust soft, stirring occasionaily. Season and set aside.

..n you are ready to cook the monkfish, preheat the oven to-125"F,u Gas Mark 7. Heat the oil in a heavy_based frying pan with

:-'of or removable handles - suitable for the oven. Add the fillets and. ::rem for about 3 minutes on one side,then flip them over.Transfer

,:r to the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes or so until just firm.:ne fish warm.

rrnish the risotto, gently reheat the rice and stir in the cream,

,:pone and herbs, then check the seasoning. Reheat the Red. Sauce.

':'.ron the risotto into mounds in the centre of each warmed plate. cut,:-.rnkfish into slices and arrange on top of the risotto.':'tron the sauce around the fish then drizzle round the oil. Garnish

:he Shredded Leeks and serve.

18)

i3 dixl *S $ d: d,

* .$,,g,,

$3i r.:

i,,.

:fr$rtp

,$:

S;Y #

II4 FISH AND SEAFOOI)

Bouillabaisse with saffron new poratoesTHIS CLISSIC MEOITTRRNTrAN FISH SOUP IS A JOY TO MAKE WHENEVERYOU CAN GET THE APPROPRIATE VARIETIES OF SEAFOOD. THE SOUILLNARISSCIS MADE IN TWO STAGES: FIRST THE BASE, FOR WHICH AN ASSORTMENT OFMrorrenRnneAN sEAFooD ts cooKED AND puREED; sEcoND, THE ADDI_TION OF CHUNKS OF FILLETED FISH SIMMERED WITH SAFFRON-SCENTEDporAToEs.A gourLrasntssE ts NorwoRTH MAKTNG tN sMALL euANTtlEsso rr ts TDEAL FoR ENTERTAINtNG. SrRve wrrs RourlLe (pnce 2l).

I Begin by preparing the seafood: scale, cur and trim o{f fins. Keep headslntact but remove gills. prawns can be

'eft intact. If you obtain weever fish,

have their poisonous spines removed rvhen you buy thern. To prepare theremaining fish for the garnish, scale, gut and trim rhem, removing theheads. Cut into bite_sized chunks.2 To make the broth, heat the oil in a large saucepan or stockpot andadd the leeks, onrons, garlic, tomatoes, Bouquet Garni, fennel, herb stalksand fish sweat the ingredients over a 1ow heat for about 20 mirrures,strrring frequentllr

3 Add the cold rvater' bring to the boil rhen srmner for 45-50 minutes.Remove from the heat and reave to stand for 20 rninutes to arow theflavours to infuse.

4 Meanwhile' prepare the garnish of potatoes: parboil the potatoes withthe satTron until haif*cooked, then drain.5 Pass the fish broth through a mouli food_mill or through a largesreve, rubbing with the back of a radre. Discard the bones and other debris.Pour the broth through a fine sieve twice, agarn rubbing with a ladle.Check the seasoning.

6 To complete the Bou'rabaisse, put the parbo'ed potatoes into a larsecasserole or saucepan then pour over the fish broth.7 Bring to the bo' then iower the heat to a slow simmer a'd cook for 5minures'Add the reserved chunks of fish for the garnish and a

'ittre trick-

le of olive oil and continue to cook for another 7-10 minutes, or until thefish is just firm and the potatoes soft.8 Using a siotted spoon' gently lift out rhe fish and rransfer to a large,warmed tureen' pour over the broth and sprinkle over the chopped chives.

INGREDTENTS (for t2)FORTHE BASIC BROTH:

3 kg / 6lb 10oz assorted Mediterranean seafootl .

choosen from at least 3 of the following: utr,i

petch, rascasse, sea bream, weeuer Jish, largt

prdwns) sea bass, r,ed mullet and skinnerl

Jillets of conger eel

450m1/% pint/2% cups oliue oil2 large leeks, white parts only, slicerl

1009/ 1 loz onions, coarsely chopperl

12 cloues ,qarlic, unpeeled and uushed

800,q/1lb 12oz uery ripe tomatoes, roughly tl:1 large Bouquet Garn.i (page 181

2 bulbs Jennel, roughly chopped

stalks offresh basil, cheruil and parsley

S litres/10% pints cokl watey

FOR THE GARNISH ADDITIONS:2kg/{lb 8oz assorted.fish, choosen.from at lL.:

3 oJ the _following:John Dory, monkfish, :,gurnard, red mullet and sea breant

1kg/2lb loz small new potatoes, teft whole

and scrubbed

2 large pinrhes o;f safron strands

a little oliue oil, to serue

2 tablespoons chopped cl.riues

.::,

iirr't:1.*:,,:;t i t,;ii. rii *,

II6 FISH AND SEAFOOD

Roasted brill with a brandade of codA aRnNonoe ts A FLAKED FtsH MtxruRE coMBtNED wtrH porATo AND

cARLtc. We use tr As A BAsE FoR stMpLE ,RoAsrrD' FTLLETS oF BRILL,

SHARpENED wtrH A sHALLor AND SHERRv vtNEGAR sAUcE. lr you Llrr,cARNrsH wrrH A TrNy Drsc or Pornro Rosrr. lr enrLt rs uNoBTATNABLE.

you cAN usE FtLLETS oF TURBoT on logru Dony.

I Have ready the Shallot Confit andVeal Stock, and set aside.

2 For the brandade, heat a tabiespoon of the oil in a heavy-based pan.

'Roast' the cod on the top of rhe stove until just cooked and golden.

Remove, flake and cool.

3 cook the potatoes in the milk along with the garlic and some salt and

pepper until soft but not broken down. Drain through a colander set over a

bowi, reserving the mi1k. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl until smoorh,

then slowly mix in the reserved milk and the cream, beating until you have

a creamy paste.You may not need all the milk, but do use all the cream.

4 Using a spatula, fold the flaked cod genrly into the potato, keeping the

fish as flaky as possible. Season, mix in the parsley. and set aside.

5 To make the sauce, cook the Shallot Confit and Madeira in a small

saucepan until the liquid is reduced by hatf. Deglaze with the sherry vine-gar and cook again for a few seconds until reduced a little, then pour rnthe veal Stock. Boil until reduced by half. check the seasoninq and set

aside in a warm place.

6 Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling warer until just wilted, drarn,

return to the pan, offthe heat, with a little of the butter. Blanch the aspara-

gus tips until just tender and return to their pan with the remaining butter.

7 To cook the brill, heat the oi1 in a hear,y-based saut6 pan set over a

medium heat.Add the fillets, and cook for about 2 minutes on each side.

Season well, remove and keep warm.

8 Reheat the brandade over a iow heat in a saucepan. Arrange the spinach

in a mound on each warmed plate. Place a fil1et of bril1 on top of each

mound. Reheat the asparagus if necessary and arrange around the edges.

Nappe (coat) the fish with the sauce, trickling a little over rhe vegetabres as

weli. Spoon one-quarter of the brandade on top of each fir1et. Fina1ly, dribble

over a little olive oil and serve. If you Like, garnish with a tiny potato Rosti.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

FORTHE BRANDADE:


200g/7oz cod jllets, skinned and cut into tlt

150g/5oz potatoes, peeled and diced

500m1 / 1 8J1 oz / 2 cups milk

1 cloue garlic, peeled and crushed


2 teaspoons chopped parsley

FORTHE SAUCE:

2 tablespoons Shallot Confit (page 9l)400m1/ 14J1 oz / 1% cups Wal Stock (page 1 ,

3 tablespoons Madeira

2 teaspoons sherry uinegar

FORTHE BRILL AND GARNISH:

200g/7oz young spinach leaues


2009 / 7 oz asparagus tips

2 x 300g/ 10%oz brill fillets, cut lengthwal':

4 longfillets

2 tablespoons oliue oil, plus extrafor seruirt.i

Potato Rdsti (page 94) (optional)


,$.1t-..j+.{ s +.tt +i.3 ;" ii $ $*-'+ 'ii.:ll ,.;l;i: ;i',

FISH AND SEAFOOD II9

:illets of John Dory with pommes',,

: e te rre ec rasees

- \G THE EARLv sut4MER,wHEN Jrnsev Rovnl porAToES ARE AT THETR

- T IS GOOD TO CRUSH THEIY AFTER COOKING WITH A MIXTURE OF

: otL, FRESH ToMATo AND GREEN HeRes. THts ls nruorgeR torn I

'.:D FRoM tvlylt'1E tN PnRtsnNo lrouNo tr MADEAWoNDERFUL BASE

' fELIcATE DtAtyoNDS oF pAN-FRtED JoHN Donv, sERVED wtrH A

: - oF FREsH ToMATo AND BALSAMIc vINEGAR coNcASsE. lr rs nrso.' :ULARLY GOOD SERVED ON ITS OWN AS A SUMMER SALAD WITH A

-- MrorreRnANEAN ToucH.

,r'e ready the Tomato Concasse and Shallot Confit for the main dish,

rr FreshTomato Pur6e andVegetable Nage for the sauce. Set aside.

.:r each fish fil1et into 3 long strips then cur rhese into 5cm/2i.n

.rnd shapes; set aside in the refrigerator.

,rl the potatoes in their skins for about 12 minutes or until just ten-

.)rain and leave for a few minutes until cooi enough to handle. Peel

.till rv.rrm and pJrce in r largc bou l.

:ntly heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil rn a small saucepan then pour

:l.re potatoes, crushing them lightly rvith a fork to form a chunky pr-rr6e.

' ' ;- L'lr +L^ ^L^^^^d olives, the Tomato Concasse, Shaliot Confit, half

ropped chives. the other fi'esh herbs and the lemon juice. Season lightly,

i care as the olives rvill afTect the seasoning. Cover and keep warm.

.:r all the sauce ingredients, includine the 4 teaspoons of Tomato

.rsse and the remaining chopped chives and olives, into a small

rp;rn and set this aside until you f,re ready to heat and serve it.

irat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large non-stick or

-reasoned frying pan. Fry the John Dory 'diarlonds' for about 2-3

.rtes or until just cooked and golden brown, turning once.

- .ing a scone cutter, about 6cn/2%in in diameter, press the potato

:r,rre into rounds on warm dinner plates. Stack the fish on top, over-

:rrq the pieces ;rtrractively.

.lring the sauce ingredients to the boil and spoon around each fish and

' ,:o mound. Serve at orrce.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

100g/3'y'oz Tbmato Concasse (page 97) plus

4 teaspoons ;for the sauce

1 tablespoon Shallot Conft (page 94)

4 x 200g/7oz John Dory Jillets, skinned

600.q/1lb 5oz Jersey Royals or otherJine baby netu

potatoes, utashed and scrubbed


609/2'loz/',4 cup pitted black oliue.s, chopped

209/Zoz thopped chiues

1 tablespoon each of chopped basil, tarragon

and coriandet

.juice oJ 'l lemon

sea salt and.fl,eshly ground black pepper

FORTHE SAUCE:

2 teaspoons FreshTbmato Purle (page 97)

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Vegetable Nage (page 13)

1 teaspoon balsamic uinegar

7 tablespoort chopped basil

:

I20 FISH AND SEAFOOD

Escalope of salmon with sweet andsour PePPer sauce

A o'ttctous, LrcHT MA,N MEAL - cHrcoRy MAKES A FrNE AccoMpANTMENTTO THE FULL FLAVOUR OF SALMON AND LOOKS SPECTACULAR WHENSERVED wrrH THE vTBRANT coLouRs oF THE pEppER sAUcE.Asr vouR rrsg_MONGER TO CUT THE SALMON ESCALOPES FROM THE THICKEST END OF ASKINNED SALMON FILLET.

I Have ready theVegetable Nage and set aside.

2 Heat one-third of the butter in a medium saucepan and gently sweatthe peppers and shallots with the herb sprigs and the bay reaf for about 10minutes or until softened.

3 Stir in the Noilly prat and cook uncovered until reduced downto about 1 tablespoon of graze. Add the vinegar and about rlomt/% pint/% cup of thevegetable Nage. simmer gently for about 20 minutesor untii softened. Remove and discard the herbs: set aside.

4 Preheat rhe oven to 180"c,2350"F,/Gas Mark 4. core the chicory headscarefully with a small, sharp knife and roil in the sugar.

5 Heat another third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan withheatproof or removabre handles - suitabre for the oven. Add the heads ofchicory and cook until they turn golden brown and caramelize. pour overthe remaining stock so that it half covers the chicory then transfer to theoven and cook for about 9 minutes or until the chicory is just tender. Setaside in a warm place.

6 Raise the oven setring to 200"c/400"F/Gas Mark 6. prace the salmonescalopes in a lightly greased pan or ovenproof dish and roast in the ovenfor about 10 minutes until pink and just firm.7 To serve, reheat the sauce gentry and whisk in the last of the butter.Reheat the chicory if necessary. Season the salmon to taste with salt andlemon juice, then arrange with the chicory on warmed plates and pourthe sauce around. Serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups Vegetable Nage (page 1

609 / 2%oz /% stick butter

2 red peppers, cored and finely chopped

2 yellow peppers, cored and jnely chopped

6 shallots, finely chopped

1 sprig each of tarragon, cheruil, basil and

1 bay leaf

j tablespoons Noilly prat

I teaspoon white wine uinegar

4 medium heads chicory

100g/4oz/% cup caster sugar

4 x 2009/7oz salmon escaloltes

sea salt and lemon juice

Kssw xwgww .K sw Kwwwss& $&eif

I casted

:. TREAT, THIS DISH COMBINES DELICATE LOBSTER WITH A TWIST OF

::Gl'4ENTS, AND YOU DON'T NEED PERFECTLY SHAPED LOBSTERS.

: e:rdv the Court-bouillon (if using), theVegetable Nage, the home-

:hrtelle and the Candied Orange Peel (if using) and set aside.

.. the lobsters, lay each one on a board stomach downwards, then

'''ttlt throrrrlr rhe cros. mark on its skull \vi'L 'L^ ';^ ^r ' l'*^^,,,.'.,,,""s'..::rte. Pour Court-bouillon or salted water into a large saucepan.

- tLrst enough to cover the lobsters. Bring to the boi1.

:c the lobsters into the sirnmering water and cook for 1 minute.

-. a11ow to cool until comfortable enough to handle rvith a tea

r.'n slice each lobster in half lengthr,va,vs thror-rgh the stomach shell

-:r it out flat. Cut olf the clarvs. Rernove the mear carefulll' from

,nd clarvs. Discard the entrails and shells but reserve the heads for

: irh, if liked. Place the lobster meat in the refrigerator to firm up.

::ri'hi1e, make the sauce: cut the peel and pith fron the citrus fruits, then

'. .r'{ments each from the grapefruit and orange, and tr,-o each from the

.:,J lirne. Work over a bowl ro carch rhe juice:. Squeeze rhe unseg-

: 'r,u'ts of the fruits for their juice and combine rvith the saved jurces.

:heVegetable Nage until reduced by half.Add 2 tablespoons of the

-rces and simmer for a further 2-3 rninutes. Gently r,vhisk in the

*lrents until they dissolve into tiny cells. Set aside and keep tvarm.

i the asparagus tips and leeks together in salted water untiljust ten-

-':r drain and return to the pan rvith one-third of the butter to glaze.

:r .r little of the leftover citrus juice for flavour. Boil and drain the

.lle. glaze with anothcr third of the butter and keep lvarm.

. the oil in a iarge, non-stick pan. Season the lobster meat then'roast'

rnert on the top of the stove for about 6-8 minutes, adding the clau'

rlnvav thror-rgh.Turn frequently to caramelize the flesh evenly.

.rve. roll theTaghatelle into a spiral around a fork and place in the cen-

nrrrn plrte. Slice the tail nrear and pl.rce orer rhc paita. rhcn trrange

.\' meat to each side. Garnish with the asparagus and leeks. Reheat the

:rd rvhisk in the remaining butter. Stir rn the chervil, check the season-

i coat the lobster. Garnish rvith basil and Candied Orange Peel if using.


INGREDIENTS (for 2)

Court-bouillon (page 16) or salted tuater,Jor

poaching

100g/3%oz homemddeThgliatelle (page 291 or

-fresh ready-made

2 liue baby lobsters, each weighing about

100-5009/11-1602

200g -oz young aspnragu, riys

12 baby leeks, whole, or 6 small, thin ones, halued

40g/ 1%oz /% stick butter


FORTHE JUS CITRUS:

2 00m1/ 7J1 o z / l cup Wgerable Nage (page 1 3 )

1 x quantity Candied Orange Peel (page 187)

(optional)

1 pink grapefruit

1 onange

1 lemon

1 LIWIE

1 tablespoon. chopped cheruil

4 basil leaues, cut into Jine julienne strips

sea salt and gtound white pepper

baby lobster with jus citrus

,, :::' ,tiIl

',.. ,:,

.---{d

i best sales of meat and poultry 6re in the autumn and tuinter when our

t0tfierS prefer a fttore substantial main course. Came is a gredt;fauourite too

.;ttse its short sedson giues such a burst o;f exciternent, especially uenison, which

:ts from Scotland and is hung to a dark rwby red. We serue medallions of

,,lle meat with ctn exotic dark chocolate and raspberry uinegar sauce.

Our bee;f is;from Scotland, too, and is only admitted into my kitchens after it

lteen hungfor at least three and a half weeks, Fillet of bee;f and oxtail are our

:ttrite cuts - theformerfor a light pdn-roasting, the latterfor cooking Iong and

Irtoly until the meat falls edsily from the bone for shredding and wrapping

cr6pinettes.

O;ffal, too, is a personal;fauourite and a challenge, tempting me into an

':'enturous m0od which might result in my dusting sweetbreads with curry pow-

' nnd seruing them with a Sduternes s6uce. Duck foie gras) a somewhat unique

ttr o;f olfol, Lue use melted into sauces - wonderful with chicken!

Our birds (chicken and pigeon) come;from Bresse in France.These I cook

rhe poch6-grtII6 way, part poaching to moisten, then roasting to render down

L -fat and to crisp and flauowr the skin.

;illet of beef with braised oxtail*:- ESTIC RECIPE HAS A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT ELEMENTS: PERFECTLY

:] SLICES OF FILLET OF BEEF NESTLING ON SPINACH AND A, ecrATo Rosrr, A BRtcHT LAyER oF Cnenveo pnnsley, vEGETABLE

.-:S AND AN UNUSUAL ACCOMPANII'IENT OF CREP/NETTE OF BRAISED

- - Tlnr's Nor ALL: THE wHoLE DtsH ts ENHANCED wtrH A RICtr

"" le SAuce rHAT HAS THE DtslNcloN oF BEING LtcHT yET

:,.!VOURED.

--: SECRET TO THtS SAUCE rS TWO-FOLD: rtnsT, I REDUCE A WHOLE

.: OF WINE RIGHT DOWN UNTIL IT IS DEEP AND SYRUPY AND, SEC-

.JSE A COMBINATION OF TWO STOCKS - CHICKEN AND VEAL _.:; THAN oNE. IF|ND tFTHATVenI Srocr ts usED oN trs owN,THE

.-:\T sAUCE ts roo slcKy.you wtLL NEED To srART THls REctpE..

I z DAyS lN ADVANCE, BUT DoN'T BE pur orr. Mosr oF THE ELE_

-: CAN BE MADE AHEAD THEN PULLED TOGETHER IN TNIUYPU!:.\ATIVELY, YOU COULD SIMPLIFY THIS RECIPE BY SERVING THE STEAK

* ] JT THE OXTAIL, AND OFFERING AS ACCOIYPANIIYENTS POTETO PUNEC

" , 95) nNo CRrnNe o pnRslry.

:rt 1y' days before you intend serving the dish, marinate the oxtail: put

-:cs into a bor,vl and cover with the half-bottle of red 'vine.Add

the'i rhyme and the bay leaf. Cover the surface r,vith cling fi1m, fitting it

-: the oxtail rather than the rim of the borvi and holding the meat in

:'e'eath the wine with a rveight.This rvill ensure the oxtail takes on a

: :rch colour.Transfer to the refrigerator to marinate for 2,1 hours.

r::r the fillet of the side'chain'and tail end so that you have a neat

:,.rrl rnxl need to remove the shiny siner,v as well, or ask the butcherrhis.'Wrap the fillet tightly in cling film and chill overnight. This

. ieep it round. Chop the trimmings roughly and set aside separately.

:r.,r'e ready the Chicken and Veal Stocks. prepare, and set aside. the

.:J Baby Onions and the Creamed parslev.

'':xt make the Redwine Sauce. Boil dor,vn the bottle of red rvine until..rd to about 100m1,/3%fl oz/% cup. Meanwhile, rn a separare salrcepan,

MtAT, CAME ANlr Pt)[ l ll(\ 127

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

FORTHE BRAISED OXTAIL:

1 whole oxtail, about 1kg/2lb loz in ueigltr,

chopped in pieces

' x 75rl bortle good red tuine

1 sprig thyrne

1 bay lea;f

about 5 tablespoons oliue oil

2 carrots, coarsely cltopped

1 onion, coarsely chopped

1 litre / 1% pints / 1% cups Veal Stock (page 1 61

caulfat (see Clossary, page 188)


FORTHE REDWINE SAUCE:

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups Chicken Stock (pa,qe 18)

500m1/18J1oz/2 cups Wal Stock (page 16)

I .u -5rl botrle p,'d red winc

about 2 tablespoons oliue oil

8 shallots, sliced

bee;f trimmings taken from the.fillet of beef

12 black peppercotns

1 sprig thyme

1 small bay leaf

1 tablespoon sherry uinegar

FORTHE FILLET OF BEEF:

1 whole.fillet oJ beeJ weighing ahout 5009/ 1tb 5oz

1 tablespoon. oliue oil

1 59 /',402 / 1 tablespoon butter

:ii'l:r aii

.::'

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::,:

" ,:l.lr,

;!.a

a a -.

I28 MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY

heat 2 tablespoons of oil and saut6 the shallots, the reserved beef trimmings

and the peppercorns, thyn-re and bay leaf, until the shallots are nice and

caramelized. Deglaze the pan with the sherry vinegar, stirring until evaporated.

5 Pour in the reduced red wine 'syrup', ail of the Chicken Stock and one-

third of the Veal Stock. Bring to the boil then simmer for about 20 min-

utes or until reduced by one-third, skimming a few times in between with

a ladle to remove any scum.

6 Pour through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a clean tea towel at least

twice to remove all the particles. Check the seasoning and set aside.

7 When the oxtail has marinated sutliciently, remove it from its marinade

and pat dry with kitchen paper towels. Reserve the marinade.

8 In an ovenproof saucepan (e.g. of cast iron), heat about 3 tablespoons

of the oi1 and, when very hot, add the oxtail pieces and brown them all

over - in fact until thev are almost blackened and well caramelized. This

process helps the flavour to develop. Remove the oxtail pieces and wipe

out the pan with kitchen paper towels.

9 Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the pan and sweat the car-

rots and onions until softened. Add the reserved marinade and the Veal

Stock and boil down to reduce by halfto concentrate the flavour.

l0 Preheat the oven to 180"C,/350"F,/Gas Mark 4. Place the oxtail in the

pan with the vegetables and reduced stock. Cover and braise in the oven for

2%-3 hours or until the meat is meltingly tender and starts ro leave the bone.

| | 'With a slotted spoon, remove the oxtail and transfer to a dish. Reserve

the braising liquor.'When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull it into

fine shreds and discard any fat, gristle and bones.

l2 Strain the braising liquor through a sieve ser over a bowl. Discard the

vegetables. Return the braising liquor to the pan and set it over high heat

on the top of the stove. Boil down the liquor until it becomes very syrupy,

and has reduced to about 300n1/% pint/ 1% cups. This will be the bindrirg

agent for the oxtail shreds. Check the seasoning, then gradually add just

enough of the reduced liquor, a small amount at a time, to the shreds so

that they bind together. Make sure the mixture is only just bound and nor

too wet.You should have about one-third of the reduced liquor ieft for

reheating later.

l3 Chill the bound oxtail mixture until firrn, then divide it into four

round balls ready to be wrapped in caul fat. In the restaurant we some-

times divide the mixture into a larger number of baby crlpinettes for each

serving but the wrapping process is quite time-consuming. Alternatively, ifyou don't intend to use caul fat, shape the mixture into 4 litt1e patties.

TO GARNISH:

24 Clazed Baby On.ions (page 93)

% x quantity Creamed Parsley (pdge 100)

4 Potdto Ri;sti (page 94)

1 59 / %oz / 1 tablespoon butter

1009/3%oz wild or brown mushrooms o;f your clt

100g/3,/zoz young spinach leaues


tf Iiyou are going to use caul fat, soak it in cold water to remove any

:r :s of blood. unravel it gently to avoid tears then pat it dry. Take an

r:-irl ball and wrap it in a piece of caul fat large enough to contain it with{ -'. overlap.Twist the overlapping caul fat tightly underneath the ball.i r:s.rt with the remaining oxtail balls. Leftover caul fat can be frozen.for

-,.: r:r another recipe.

I I l)repare the Potato Rcisti for the garnish, and set aside, uncovered, rn

- ir:m place.They wili remain crisp.

ll Reheat the Glazed Baby Onions and the Creamed parsley, makrng

;': lhe latter is light and creamy. Reheat the Red Wine Sauce.

l? In a saut6 pan, heat half the butter for the garnish untii itJusf stops

1 .::ring and quickly saut6 the mushrooms until liehtlv cooked. Set aside

-:-: keep warm.

I I tslanch the spinach leaves for about 1 minure or unril jusr wirted, then

::;.:r and squeeze dry in a ciean tea towel. Reheat in a small pan with the-:.lrn then season to taste.

ll ll.eheat the reserved oxtail braising liquor. It should have a syrupy con_

" ilnc)'. If it looks too thick, then let it down with a little stock. Simmer

:: : irrtail crtpinettes in this liquor for about 5 minutes, stirring lightly in the

:..:. Remove the crlpinettes with a slotted spoon and take offthe caul fat

r;'.rng a lacy pattern.This is a process we always do in the Aubergine for

- ':ccial touch, but you can leave the caul fat on ifyou prefer.

lO You are now ready to pull all the elements together for serving.

"-::rove the wrapped fillet of beef from the refrigerator and take ofT the

-::s film. Cut the fillet across into four equal-size rounds of steak. Heat a

;:,espoon of oil in a heavy-based frying pan, add l5g/%oz/1 tablespoon

:r-::er and, when it starts to foam, add the steaks and pan-fry them accord-

::: ro taste. In the restaurant we prefer them to be medium cooked (right).

ll Place each Potato Rcisti on a small mound of creamed spinach in the

.,rrre of each large warmed plate. Put a steak on each potato Rcisti, shape

r: Creamed Parsley into quenelles (page I73) and place one on each

r---rk. Arrange the oxtail cripinette, the Glazed Baby Onions and saut6ed

:-,;ihrooms around the steak. Drizzle the Red'wine Sauce over the steak.

:*etables and the oxtail to glaze. Serve in triumph!

MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY I29

COOKING STEAKS -THE FINGERTIP TEST

WHEN ASKED How LoNG I LEAVE srEAKsro cooK, I REpLy

WITH THIS HINT: CHECK BY PRESSING THE TOP OF THE STEAK

wtrH youR rtNcen ttps.TtvtNGs DEpEND oN THE THlcKNEss

OF THE STEAK AND WHETHER IT NEEDS TO BE VERY RARE OR

veotuty.Wltg RARE srEAKs,youR FINGERS sHouLD ALMosr

SINK INTO THE STEAK WITH VIRTUALLY NO BOUNCE AS IT

coors. Meorull sTEAKS wtLL HAVE A sLtGHT coMEBAcK

AND BE A LtrrLE BouNcy. MED|UM To WELL-DoNE srEAKs

wrLL FEEL FIRMER BUT slLL HAVE A LtrrLE spnrNc. Werr-

DONE STEAKS - NO COMMENT!

/enison with chocolate sauce,: "ED VENISON IS ONE OF THE UNSUNG SUCCESS STORIES OF MODERN

.,AL HUSBANDRY. IT IS LEAN, TENDER MEAT, NATURALLY REARED AND

l Low tN SATURATEo rnr. BrcnusE vENtsoN ts A FULL_FLAV.,RED

'- ir wlLL suPPoRT AN ASSERTIVE sAUCE,wHrcH rN THrs cAsE rs A coM-.:-roN oF rHE Ot_o AND THE New Wonlo: RED wtNE, RAspBERRy vtNE_

.: AND Venl Srocr REDUCED RIGHT DowN AND FLAVouRED tN THE

. :iNAL Azttc FAsHtoN wtrH DARK, BtrrER cHocoLATE.

. ' 'rake the sauce, have ready the veal Stock. Using a large sallcepan,

'- rhe shallots and garlic in the 25gl1oz/z sttck of butter, along with the:.e. bay leaf and peppercorns, until nicely caranelized and softer-reci.

r:qlaze u''ith the raspberry vinegar then por-rr in the wine and boil until' r'educed to about 100mI/3'/2fl oz/% cup and is syrupy in consistency.

:.Jd theveal Stock arrd boil until reduced by three-quarters to about'-tI/ I ptnt/2% cups. Pour the sauce through a fine sieve set over a bowl,

.':re ge'tly r'vith the back of a lad1e. Return the sauce to the pan. Stir.: chocolate until it melts, reheatin€l very gently if necessary, but tak-

- ..rre not to let the sauce boil. Check the seasoning.

, prepare the vegetables, in another saucepan gently saut6 the carrots,

:r,rc and bacon in the 50g/2oz/% stick of butter r-rntil golden bror,vn.

: half of this mixture in a separate pat and sct aside.Add the cabbage'.rl original pan and continue cooking for a further 3_,1

'rin'tes.)r,rin the br-rtter from the cabbage mixrure and add the cream. Boil briskly

-.1uce by half until lightly thickened. check the seasoning and set aside

':'iheat the oven to 220"c/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Season the venison steaks

: rhe oil in an ovenproof saut6 pan and bror,vn the steaks u'til well sealed

" er - about 3 rlinutes. cover with a butter paper or sheet of buttered

,'eproof paper and roast in the oven fbr 4-5 r'inutes. l{emove and ser-

:-' to rest.At this stage rhe venison should be slightly pink inside.

il-cheat the cabbage mixture and the reserved uncreamed vegetables sepa-

--r. (ient\ reheat the sauce,being careful not to let it boil or it *,ill separate

:poon the cabbage rnixture onto warmed plates. Slice rhe 'enison

,ks ard arrange these on top.Arrange the renrai'i'q'eqcr:rbrcs :r1-oll.cl

,reat. Nrappe (coat) the meat and vegetables *-irh srucc irlrl \lr\..

MEAT, C]AME AND POULTRY I3I

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

4009/ 14o: canttt, tut into l cnt / /irt dice

100g/ 11oz celeriac, tr.tt int,:t lotr/%irt dice

300g/1002 sutoked bacon, tut into jun/%in dite

5 0g / 2oz / % stick buuer

% small Sauoy c6[[6gr, cut into thin julienne strips

200m1/7fl oz/l cup double cream

1 x 150g/5oz Jillet of uenison steaks, trimmed


sea sdlt dnd.freshly ground black pepper

FORTHE SAUCE:

2 litres/3% pints/9 cups Wal Stock (page 1d)

500g/1Ib 2oz shallots, coarsely chopped

1 cloues garlic, un.peeled and crushed

25q/1oz/% stick butter

2 sprigs thyme

t hay Leaf

2 tedspoons black peppercorns

2 teaspoons raspberry uin.egar

1 x 75cl hottle red wine

,l0g/ 1%oz dark, biuer chocolate, broken into

small pieces

at::lx ,aa',


Caramelized calf's sweetbreads with jus SauternesA poputnR cHorcE AT THE AuerRcrNs BUT RAREL' EATEN AT THE DoMESTT.

TABLE, SwEETBREADS ARE srMpLE To 'RE'ARE

AT HoME. Use oNy swEETBREADs

FR.M THE 'ANCREAS

.LAND, soMETrMEs KNowN As rHE HEARTBREAD'. TgEReIS NO NEED TO BLANCH THEM, ALTHOUGH THIS IS OFTEN RECOMMENDED FOR

SUPPOSED EASIER SKINNING:A SHARP FILLETING KNIFE IS JUST AS EFFECTIVE.

I To make the sauce, have ready the chicken Stock. pour the Saurernesinto a srrall saucepan and boil down until reduced by harf. Add theChicken Stock and boil down again to reduce by half.2 using a thin, sharp filleting knife, remove the rnembrane from the sweer_breads, sliding the knife under the membrane and working the k'ife awayfrom you in a sawing action. preheat the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6.

3 Heat the oil in a hear'ry-based frying pan over a medium heat and brownthe sweetbreads for about 4-5 minutes on each side, or untir caramerizecland golden brown. Sprinkle over the curry powder and salt while cookrng.4 Remove from the heat, cover each sweetbread with a butter paper orbuttered greaseproof paper and transfer to the oven. cook for about g

mnutes or until firm. Renrove and set aside in a warm place, sti11 covered.5 cook the carrors with one-quarter of the r0r)g/3%oz/l stick butter andenough water to barely cover them until just cooked and firm - about 5

minutes.The water should have armost evaporated. Season, and keep warm.5 cook the spinach in another quarter of the butter and 1 tablespoon ofChicken Stock or water, until jusr wilted. Drain, season and keep warm.7 ln a hear,y-based pan, cook the shallots gently in another quarter of thebutter, turning frequently until soft and golden brown. Remove and drarn.8 Add the remaining quarter of the butter to the same pan and saut6 thegirolles for a few minutes until just softened. Remove and drain.9 To finish the sauce, reheat until just boiling. Taste for seasoning andwhisk in the 25g/ 1oz/% stick of chilled and diced butrer.| 0 Squeeze dry the spinach in a clean tea towei and place a mound in thecentre of each warmed plate. Arrange a sweetbread on top of each thencrown with rhe carrots. Place the shanots and girolies around the sweetbreads.

Reheat the sauce and rvhisk to a froth with a Bamix (see page 1g9 for sup-plier) or a hand-held electric multi-brender. pour around the sweetbreads.

TNGREDTENTS (FOR 4)

4 x 150g/5%oz cal;f\ sweetbreails (2 pairs)


1 teaspoon mild curry powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

2009/7oz c(irrots, cut into thin bdtons or julit,strips

100g/3%oz/1 stick unsalted butter

200g/7oz young spinach leaves

about 24 shallots, peeled

759/3oz girolles

FORTHE SAUCE:

75ml/2'/,J1 oz/% cup 2 tablespoons Chickut

Stotk (page 181, plus :l tablespoonJor the ::

75tnl/272J1 oz/% cup 2 tablespoons Sauterttt,

or other sweet white tuine

259/1oz/%sticle unsalted butter, chilled and ,;

sea salt and jeshly ground black pepper

;T

lump of lamb NiEoise] 5E DISHES ARE BRIGHT AND COLOURFUL WITH STRONG, GUTSY

. lJRs oF pEppERS, cARLtc, ToMAToEs AND oLrvES. Cor,,rgrNt sucu":\TS WITH PLUMP LAMB ROASTED UNTIL IT IS JUsT TENDER AND YoU: A DtsH THAT TRULy REFLECTs rHE vtBRANcy or pRovrNce. Fon

'':) OF LAMB, ASK YOUR BUTCHER TO CUT THTCK BONELESS CUTLETS

" rHE END OF A SADDLE OF LAMB WHERE tT JOTNS THE LEG.

r ,. L' ready the Lamb Stock, potato Rristi, Glazed Baby Onions and::cd Aubergine Slices.

'.rrepare the Nigoise garnish, cut the courgettes rnto 1cmlZrin thickI)ip the romatoes briefly in boiling water, skin, deseed and cut them

.ruarters. Pick off the tips of the sprig of thyme to form little:.i' xnd chop the rosemary.

' :,1 the oil to a medium saucepan and lightly saut6 the courgettes along:he thyme 'flowers' and chopped rosemary for about 6 minutes or. ust softened. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen: ror.vels. Saut6 the tomato quarters until just softened, remove and.

Season the saut6ed vegetables and set aside together in a warm place.irrake the sauce, boii down the Lamb Stock by about two-thirds. Stir

. chopped basil and tarragon. Check the seasoning.

iook the lamb, first preheat the oven to j,90"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5.' lhe clarified butter or oil in a cast_iron frying pan and brown the'-rolnts all over.tansfer the pan to the oven and roast for g_10 min_I{emove the meat, season it and leave to rest, covered tn a warm

., tor about 5 minutes.

:.c the rumps thinly. place a potato Rosti in the cenrre of each::ed plate and arrange slices of lamb on each. Distribute the saut6ed:.rbles, the Glazed Baby Onions, the halved olives and the Candied-rqine Slices around them. Spoon the sauce over the lamb and:.rbles and serve.


INGREDIENTS (for 4)

700m1/1% pints/3 cups Ldmb Stock (page 17)

2 teaspoons each o;f chopped bdsil and tarrctgon

4 boneless rumps o;f larnb each weighing about

250g/9oz

409/1%oz/% stick melted clari;fied buuer or


100g/ j%oz/% cup black oliues, pitteil and halved


FORTHE NtgotsE GARNTSH:

4 x Potato Rdsti (page 9l)24 x Candied Aubergine Stices (page 1g0)

21 x Glazed Baby Onions (page 93)

2 courgettes

4 ripe tomatoes

2 large sprigs each of tlryme and rosemary

100m1/3'/'fl oz/% cup oliye oil

'' *i}9uweyf,wffirusrffiffiffiswq' 3'

I36 MEAT, GAME ANI) POULTRY

R I a e I I ..1Koast best encl ot lamD wltnLnma ts ALWAyS A popuLAR cHotcE oN ouR MENU, AND THls ls A PRETTY

DtsH FoR LATE sPRtNG wHEN NEW LAMB ls AT lrs BEST. ltnrce wrll-

TRII'4MED FILLETS FROM THE BEST END OF THE LAMB AND ROLL THEM IN

CHOPPED FRESH HERBS BEFORE ROASTING AND SLICING.

I Have ready the Lamb Stock, Potato Rosti, Glazed Baby Onions and

Tomato Concasse. Boil the Lamb Stock until reduced by two-thirds. Set aside.

2 Drain the lentils, then place in a saucepan with the Ilouquet Garnr,

onion and carrot. Cover lvith fresh lvater, bring to the boil, then turn

down to a simmer and cook for about 15-20 minutes until just tender.

Drain, remove the Bouquet Garni, onion and carrot then set aside.

3 In a smal1 pan, melt half the butter and sweat the cabbage for 2 minutes

or until just wilted, stirring occasionall,v. Mix with the lentils and set aside.

4 Blanch the asparagus in a 1ittle boiling rvater for 2 minutes, then drain,

refresh in cold water, drain again and set aside.

5 Preheat the oven to 200"C/400oF/Gas Mark 6. Cut the meat from both

sides of the best end of larnb and trinr into neat fillets (we call these can-

nons). Mix together the herbs, setting aside about 2 teaspoons for the sauce.

Roll the cannons in the remaining herbs, making sure they are evenly coated.

5 Heat the oi1 in an ovenproof saut6 pan and fry the cannons quickly on all

sides to seal, then cover the meat with a butter paper or some buttered grease-

proof paper. Roast in the oven for 5-6 minutes or until the cannons are just

pink in the centre. Remove and set aside u'ithout removing the paper.

7 Reheat the Potato Rcisti in the oven and the Glazed Baby Onions in a pan

(they won't need additional liquid). Return the Lamb Stock to the boil, add

the reserved herbs, check seasoning and whisk in half the remaining butter.

8 Using the last of the butter, reheat the lentils and cabbage in one pan and

the asparagus in another. Place a 7.5cnt/3in cutter in the centre of each

warm plate and spoon in the lentil and cabbage mixture, patting down lightly.

Remove the cutters and place a Potato Rosti on top of each mound.

9 Cut the lamb into neat slices and place on the Rcjsti.Arrange the Glazed

Baby Onions,Tomato Concasse and asparagus around the lentils and lamb.

Bring the sauce just back to the boi1, nappe (co*) the lamb with about a

spoonful and spoon the rest over the vegetables. Serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

300m1 /% pint/1% cups Lamb Stock (page 1,

2 x Potato Rdsti (page 94)

% x quantity Glazed Baby Onions (page 931

1 00g / 3 %oz Tomato Concasse (page 97 )

50g/2oz/% cup Puy lentils, sodked ouernight

1 Bouquet Carni (page 18)

1 sntall onion, peeled and halued

1 small carrot, peeled

40g / 1%oz / % stick butter

50g/2oz Sauoy cabbage, cut into fine julienrtc

about 8 small asparagus spedrs

1 whole best end oJ lamb

7 teaspoon each offnely chopped cheruil, bastl.

chiues an.d parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

sea sdh and;fieshly ground black pepper

Puy le nti ls

.,$X *.p rrx s: * $* *,: -,6: *. *r $ d *


Roast rump of veal with saut6ed cdpes

A stmpu, pAN-RoAsrED DtsH oF A Jutcy RUMe oF vEAL, sLtcED tNTo

MEDALLTONS AND SERVED wtrH SAUTEED cEpEs AND LIGHT venl jus. AsrYOUR BUTCHER FOR A PIECE OF VEAL TOP RUMBWHICH IS A ROASTING CUT

SIMILAR TO BEEF TOP RUMBTHEN CUT IT INTO TWO LONG PIECES AND USE

KITCHEN STRING TO TIE EACH INTO NEAT ROLLS.

I Have ready the Shallot Confit, Tomato Concasse, Veal Stock and the

Potato Rcisti, and set aside.

2 Trim the meat of any fat and cut it iengthways into 2 strips, each vcryapproximately 15cm/6in long. Tie each of these inro long fillet shapes,

tightening the string to neaten into a ro11. Preheat the oven ro220" C / 425"F/Gas Mark 7.

3 Saut6 the cdpes or mushrooms in 2 tablespoons of the oil for about 5

nrinutes or until just softened. Stir in the Shallot Confit, the Tomato

Concasse and the chives. Season and set aside in a warm place.

4 Blanch the spinach in a little boiling warer with half the butter, then

drain well and keep warm.

5 Season the veal rolls and place on a roasting tin. Brush with the

remaining oil. Roast for 10-12 minures or until lightly springy to

the touch and just pink in the centre.

6 To make the sauce of veal jus, bring the Veal Stock to the boiltogether with the port. Boil until reduced by one-third then check the

seasoning.'Whisk in the remaining butter.

7 Arrange the spinach in a mound in the centre of each warmed plate,

then place a Potato Rosti on top of each.

8 Untie the veal rolls and slice each into about 5-6 medallions. placc

these on top of each Rcisti then arrange the garnish of saut6ed cdpes and

Tomato Concasse around the edge.

9 Spoon a little of the sauce over the veal then trickle the remainder over

the sarnish. Serve hot.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

2 tablespoons Shallot Confit (page 94)

1 tablespoonTbmato Concasse (page 97)

200m1/7Jl oz/',4 cup Veal Stock (page 16)

4 Potato Ri;sti (page 94)

8009/1lb 12oz top rump o;f ueal

200g/7oz fresh cipes or other wild mushroons.


2 teaspoons chopped chiues

2009/7oz young spinach leaues


4 tablespoons ruby port


AIAl'oulet Bresse poche-grille with--s sryLe oF HALF poAcHrNG AND HALF GRTLLTNG pouLTRy rs oFTEN

-1€) FoR cooKrNG prcEoN tN FRnNce. He ne I HAVE ADApTED rr ro surr:'- CKEN. THT VETHOO COMBINES POACHING THE FLESH ON THE.BONE,

'rL cH KEEPS rHE MEAT Morsr, wrrH GRTLLTNG, wHrcH HELps ro RELEASE

-.€ FAT SO THAT THE MEAT IS JUST TENDER AND THE SKIN CRISPY. FON MT,

--€ BEST CHTCKEN rS tue Fntrucu pouLer Bnessr wrrH rrs CHARACTERTS_

-€ BLACK LEGS AND FINE FLESH. POUIET BNCSSE BIRDS CAN BE FOUND IN

JiI-AIN SPECIALITY BUTCHERS, BUT YOU COULD USE A GOOD FREE-RANGE

rnf.TgC CAPPUCCINO-STYLE SAUCE CAN BE SERVED AS IT IS, OR, FOR TRUE

&-8ERGINE srYLE, sKlM THE FRorH oNLY AND spooN ovER THE BREAsrs.

I Have ready the Chicken Stock and set asidc.

I t.ut off the legs and wings from the poulet Bresse or free-range chick-:' These can be used for another dish, perhaps in a mid-week casserole.

r::;e the breasts intact on the carcass ofeach chicken.

t l: r'ou are using homemade tgliatelre, blanch for one minute, drain and

"* i.ide. For fresh ready-made, follow the pack instructions.I iJeat the butter and half the oil in a saut6 pan and gently fry the onions,r 'hallots until lightly browned, shaking the pan occasionally. Remove:" ::r rhe pan and set aside.

I Bl.rnch the spinach in a minimum of water,just enough to cover,for a

r'n ieconds until wilted, then drain in a sieve and refresh under cold wateri irrest cooking and preserve the colour. Squeeze gently in a clean tea: .rrl or kitchen paper towels to dry. Set aside.

I tllanch the petits pois and the unpodded broad beans in separare pans

,: .-rlted boiling water. Drain. pod the broad beans and set aside both oeas.: i beans in a warm place.

I \ow make the sauce. Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature. In a

::;s saucepan, put the Chicken Stock to boil along with the bay leaf,- 'cnr3ry, carrot' onion, celery and peppercorns. Add the birds, ensuring::: breasts are submerged in the stock.

I rurn the heat down so the iiquid is at a very gentre simmer, with just:: occasional bubble, then cover and poach the birds for 10 minutes.-l:nrove them, cover loosely in foii, and keep warm in the oven.

I Return the poaching stock ro the heat and boil rapidiy until reduced:'' .rbout half. Strain through a fine sieve and reserve about,r00ml,u 1,lfl..lZcups.Theremainingstockcanbeusedinanotherrecipeorfiozen.>


sau ce gras

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

2 small Poulet Bresse or Jree-range chickens, each

weighing about 9 00g- 1kg / 2- 21/lb

250g/9oz homemadeThgliatelle fuage 29) or

Jresh ready-made

50g/2oz/% stick butter plus an extra knob

Jor finishing


3759/1joz baby onions or shallots, peeled

300g/10o2 baby spinach leaues

100g/3%oz petits pois

100g/3%oz baby broad beans, unpodded

2 sprigs tarragon

FORTHE SAUCE:

2.5 litres/4%pints Chicken Stock (page 1g)

1 bay leaf

1 sprig rosemary

7 carrot, roughly chopped

% medium onion, roughly chopped

% celery stick, roughly chopped

6 white peppercorns

2009 / 7oz fresh foie gras

150m1/%pint/% cup double cream

259/1oz/% stick unsalted butter



fo ie

. "" "*.sW$ffi,

I4O MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY

| 0 ofT the heat, add the foie gras in pieces to the re served stock, stirringuntil srnooth. Mix i' the cream and butter.Add a squeeze or two of fresh

lenron juice and season to taste. Heat until just o' the point of boilingthen renove frorn the heat :rnd set aside.

| | Meanwhile, preheat the grill uritil hot. Remove the birds fro'r the

oven, unwrap them and cut the half-poached breasts fronr each carcass,

retaining the skin. Grill the breasts skir-r-side up for abor-rt 4 rninutes then,

with a sharp knife, slash each breast diagonany a ferv times, wrap looselyin foil and return to the oven to keep tvarnr.

l2 Heat the remaining oil i' a pan arrd brieflv fi-y the tarraeon leaves,

being careful not to burn them. Drain and set aside.

| 3 Heat a k'ob of butter in a saut6 pan and qr-rickry rerreat the Tagliatelle,

the spinach and the onions or shaliots in quick succession. Rernoveand keep u'arm in separate dishes. r\eheat the petits pois and beans ifnecessary.

l4 To serve,u'ind a quarter of theTasliatelle arou'cl the prongs of a carv-ing fork for each serving, then place in the centre of a large, r,varr' plate,

or simplv pile into a r'or-rnd.Top each rvith a quarter of the spinach.

l5 Arrange one slashed chicke'breast on top of each spinach mound, scr

that it falls into a fan. Place the o'ions or shallots, petits pois and broad

beans around the chicken breast.

16 Reheat the sauce and froth up u,ith a Barnix (see page r g9 for sup-plier) or a hancl-held electric multi-blender. Ideaily, spoon just the froth ofthe sauce over the chicke' and serve the rest of the sauce separately.

Garnish with the fried tarragon leaves and serve at once.

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I42 MEAT. GAME AND POULTRY

Roast on a bed ofGnMr erRos AND CABBAGE wERE MADE FoR EACH orHER.Tuts pRRrRtoce

DrsH rs AN EASY ROAST AND, BECAUSE tT rS SERVED W|TH JUST GREEN

vEGETABLES, tr ts BorH LtcHT AND FLAVoURSoME. Tgr etRo ls cooKED

IN TWO STAGES WITH THE BREAST AND LEGS REMOVED AFTER PAN-

ROASTING TO PREVENT OVERCOOKING.

I H.rvc rerdl tlrc Brorvrr Chickerr Sto,'k rrrd boil ro redrrcc by hrlf ro

about I00n'i/3'/.fl oz/'l cup. Set aside.

2 Prel-reat the oven to 220"C/125"F,/Gas Mark 7. Meanr,vhile, heat the oil

in an ovenproofsaut6 pan on top ofthe stove and brorvlr the bird all over,

cooking and turning the bird for about 5 rnirrutes.

3 Place the pan in the oven and roast until the partridge is only just done

and the meat still pink inside - usuallv 7-8 minutes. Remove and allow

rhe bird to rc\t. prelerlhly covcrcd r,r irh r hutrcr p.rpcr or a shccr of

buttered greaseproofpaper. Keep the oven on.

4 Melt one-third of the butter and quickly sautc thc cabbage, stir:ring and

tossing r-rntil it starts to rvilt. I)ick the tips otTthe spriq of thynre - rve call

thesc th1'nrc'florvcrs'- and sprinkle half over the cabbage as it cooks.

Season light11, and keep rvartl.

5 Blanch the leeks in a 1ittle boiling water, then clrain u'ell and toss in a

knob oI the rcrrt.rirring buttcr. Kecp rvrrrrr.

5 Melt half of the renraining butter and saut6 the mr.rshrooms quickl,v

until just cooked. Season and keep rvarnt.

7 Nor,n relnove the breasts and legs fr-orn the carcrss anc-l return them to

the pan. Discard the carcass. Cover the legs and breasts with the butter

prpcr or butter:ed greaseproof paper and return to tl-re hot oven for a

further :1 minutes.

8 Reheat the stock and stir in the retnaining thyme'flowers'and the last

of the butter, r,vhisking to thicken the sauce.

9 To scrvc. puf thc crbbage in thc ccrrrrc of warnred plrrcr. Cur e.rch leg

in half and pl:rce on the cabbage, then cut the breasts into 6 slices and place

thesc on top of the leqs. Garnish round the or-rtside lvith the leeks and

nrurhroorrrs tttd ttappc (roat) rvith rhc s.rrrcc.

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

200m1 /7,fl oz/% tup Broutn Chicken Stock

(page 18)

1 tablcspoon oliue oil

1 x 800g/1Lb 12oz partridge, prepare d -for tltt

859/3oz/% stitk butter

1 lar,ge sprig thymc

% smnll head Sauoy cabbage, weighing abottt

250g/902, cut ir.tto.line julienne strips

12 baby leeks, tt'i.mnted and leJt whole

100g/3%oz wild mushrooms c.g. cipes or girolt

slircd if large

sea salt and jtshly ground black pepper

cabbagepartridge

R,oas

raby


t guinea fowl with broad beans andas Pa ragu s

.'EA FowL rs A FLAV.URS.ME ALTERNATT'E To cutcre N.We usE B'RDS

- FnRrucr BUT A pRtME FREE-RANGE FowL wtLL BE eutrE AccEprABLE.

, s AN TDEAL DtsH To SERVEWHEN FRESH BRoAD BEANs, on rEves,nNo

- ..G ASPARAGUS ARE IN SEASON. OUT OT SEASON,YOU CAN USE YOUNG,

]f -QUALITY, FROZEN BROAD BEANS AND THIN ASPARAGUS.

: : ivc ready the Chicken Stock and set aside.

I - -.ove the legs and wings from the guinea fowr and trim otT the back-. Leave the breasts intact on the carcass. Reserve the legs and wings.

. ::.g the Chicken Stock to a boil in a pan large enough to contain the

'\dd the breasts complete with their carcass, then cover ancr poach for:: 6-7 minutes Remove the fowr from the stock and set aside to coor.

I 'ake the sauce, add the wings and legs to the stock and boir it until

- rd by half. Strain through a sieve. Discard the wings and legs and set.,uce aside.

i .-r'ch the broad beans for about 2 minutes in boiling saited water.:.. and when cool enough to handle,pop them out of their skins.

r - ..rrrch the asparagus for L-2 ninutes in boiling salted water, then drarn..'t aside.

- :.:at about one-third of the butter and saut6 the mushrooms until just,-rd; keep warm.

| :rheat the oven to 220"c/ 425'F,/Gas Mark 7. cut the breasts from the

':.r fowl carcass, and discard the bones. Heat about two-thirds of the,i.ing butter in an ovenproofsaut6 pan then cook the breasts skin-side': for 2-3 minutes or until just crisp and lightly browned.

i '-.rce the pan in the oven and continue to cook the breasts for about: :'inutes. season, and let them rest for a feu, minutes before srici'gr rnto 5-6 pieces.

I ll-e heat the broad beans and asparagus in about half of the re'raini'g'::r' Place the mushrooms in the centre of each warmed dinner plate.-,'ge the slices of guinea fowl on top and surround u-ith the br-oad

:.. and asparagus.

I l{eturn the sauce to the boil, check the seasoninq :L'rl srir ir the l.rsr .irutter and the chervil. Spoon over the nieat atrcl I,cger,r[.1.,i..111ri \.r\.c

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

400n1/14fl oz/1% ntps Chicken Stock (page 1g)

7 x guinea-fowl u,eighing about 1.2 kg/2tb 12oz

150g/5oz Jresh baby broad beans

1 5 0g / 5 oz young dspdrdgus

50g/2%oz/% stick buuer

100g/3%oz wild mushrooms, sliced if ldrge

1 teaspoon chopped chetuil

sea sdlt and Jreshly ground black pepper

peac h es3arbary

. - CK, SIMPLE MEAL USING BREASTS OF BARBARY DUCK, NOW READILY

- ,{BLE tN LARGER SUpERMARKETs. THry ARE sERVED wtrH FRESH,

] lYELIZED PEACHES, COOKED WITH A HINT OF FIVE-SPICE POWDER.

: .'.'e ready the Veal Stock and Candied Orange Pee1, and set aside.

:-.rr one-third of the butter in a saucepan and saut6 the shallots r.vith

:,,ney and about half the five-spice por,r,,der until softened and

:Lized - about 7 minutes.

,. :.1 the vinegar and cook until evaporated. pour in the port and Madeira

,il until the liqr,rid is syrupy and has reduced b1' about tr,vo-thirds.

'-.rJ the Veal Stock and boil for about 15 minutes or until redr_rced by

::ien strain through a fine sieve, rubbing gentiy r.vith the back of a

\cason this sauce and set aside.' qlaze the peaches, sprinkle rvith the rernainder of the five-spice porv-

::J the icing sugar. Heat another third of the butter in a non-stick fry-'rn and gently saut6 the peaches, colouring them all over. Take care not

ircook them. Set aside and reserve the pan jr_rices in a u.arm place.

r. iren vou are ready to cook the duck breasts, preheat the oven to. -125"F/Gas Mark 7. Score the fatty skin of the breasts; this ensures

:ire skin rvill become crispv rvhen cooked.

.,. irhout using any oi1, heat a non-stick or heavy-based frying pan until

. ]rot. Add the duck breasts, skin-side dou,'n, and cook for about 3 min--olouring all over. In this r,vay the duck r,vill make its orvn fat.

.,r-er the breasts with a br-rtter paper or buttered greaseproof paper and

,. rn the oven for about 7-8 minutes, turning once or trvice. Remove

,llorv to rest for 3 minutes before slicing each breast into 8 slices.

.'r hile the duck is resting, cook the spinach in a little water and the

,rnrng butter for about one minute or until just u,'i1ted. Drlin rvel1,

:zrng out lightly in a clean tea towel or kitchen paper tou,e1s.

i)lace a spinach mound in the centre of each rvarnred plate and :lrranqe

.iiced dr,rck over and around each to make a pvranrid sh:rpe. Cr-rt each

:r half in four'and arrange on and around the dr.rck. Trrckle ovcr the

:r'ed pan juices. Return the sauce to the boil. check rhe se.rs.rii.q. :rrrrl

,n it over and around the meat. Garnish rvith Canclic.l ()r,rngc l)ttl.

:'.'f"ri; '"' ' .-, i ,.r ': .

MEAT, GAME ANI) POULTRY I45

INGREDIENTS (for 2)

100m1/1411 oz/1',4 cups Wal Sntck (page 15)

1 x qunntirl, Candied Orange Peel (page 187)

85g/3oz/% stick butter

6 shallots, slircd

1 tedspoon lrcney

'l scdnt tedspoon Ji.ue-spict powder

1 teaspoon sherry uineQar

200ntl/7-fl oz/% cup r,uby port

1)anil/3'/fl oz/'y' cup Madeira

2 large yellow peaches, unskinned dnd halued with

the stones renroucd

1 teaspoon icing sugar

2 x 1509/5oz Barbdry duck bredsrs

1509/5oz baby spinath leaues

sea salt and _freslily ground black pepper

ducl< with glazed

. rruly come aliue when I talk about desserts. At the Aubergine the desseyt course

tlte one we go out o;f our way with to make it look breathtaking. A beautiful

'."ssert can riual the best art.I loue drawing and spend many hours with Damien,

't'Pastry Chef, playing around with designs. I like to think our clients are

'.tited by desserts and see them as forbidden fruits to be sauoured and enjoyed.

Ice-creams and sorbets giue me pleasure too. Owrs are all made in the

.:rchen, neuer bought in, and often serued fresh from churning. I prefer a small

.,0p of heauen to a larger quantity of Jactory-made mediocrity.

One of my first jobs at Le Cauroche was as a night baker, starting work

:: ntidnight, This is how I learned the essential basics brioche, sabl6, sugar

:stry and so on, Many chefs fear pastry bwt, to me, it brings great satisfaction.

',I-lten I moued to Paris and the kitchens of Guy Sauoy, I worked alongside the

,illiant young talented Philippe Chapon and spent a great deal of tinte in his

.ttion, perfecting my French as well as my skills.

In the same way that a good stayter sets the standard for a great meal, so

: superb dessert represents the climdx - it's the high spot on which our clients

.-tlt)€ uS with hoppy, glowing memories and intentions to retwrn.

I48 DESSERTS

Tatin of pears

THe sroRy or rue Tntrru srsrERs AND THErR FAMous upsrDE-

DowN AppLE TARTs rs wELL rcNowu.Ttr SAME tDEA woRKs EeuALLy wELL

wtrH pEARS. I pRerrn ro cooK THE pEARs FtRsr IN A CARAMEL syRup

BEFORE BAKING THEM WITH A BUTTERY CARAMEL SAUCE AND LIGHT.

HoMEMADE Pupr PLsrny. Cuoose A FrRM FRUrr rHAT HoLDS rrs sHApE

wELL, sucH ns Pncrunvs.

I Have ready the homemade Pu{f Pastry and set aside. Peel, quarter and

core the pears, then cover and set aside.

2 Put three-quarters of the sugar into a deep saucepan with about 4 table-

spoons of water. Heat very slow1y, stirring occasionally, until the sugar starts

to dissolve.'With a pot of water and a brush, wash down any sugar crystals

that cling to the side of the pan; this will give you a clearer caramel.

3 \iVhen every grain ofsugar has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and

boil the sugar until it is a rich, dark caramel. Imnediately add the pear

quarters, standing well back as the cararnel will spit.

4 Stir the pears well to coat then'r. Cover with a lid, and adjust the heat to

maintain a simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the pears are just softened

but retain their shape and terture; during this time turn the pears once or

twice. Renrove from the heat. Leave the pears to cool in the caramel syrup,

then chill. Drain the pears and set aside. I)iscard the crramcl syrup.

5 Put the remaining sugar into I saucepan with 2 tablespoons of water.

Dissolve the sugar and boil it to caranrel sta€ie as before. As soon as the

caramel starts to smoke, I,vhisk in the diced butter.When you irave a smooth

sauce, pour it into a 21cn/9in flan tin or dish which has a fixed base.

5 Roll out the pastry to a23cn/1.Oin diarreter circle. Prick it well and

transfer it to the refrigerator to rest for about 10 minutes. Preheat the oven

to 200"C/400oF,/Gas Mark 6.

7 Arrange the drained pears in the caramel sauce. Fit the pastry on top,

tucking the edges down well to hold the pears in place. Bake for 20-25 mrn-

utes or until the pastry is golden brown and crisp. Drain the excess jr-rices off

once during baking, leaving enough juice to keep the pears moist.

8 Cool in the tin for 10 minutes then invert onto a olate and serve at

roo111 temperature.

INGREDIENTS (makes one 2lcm/9in tar:

'l x quantity (250g/9oz) homemade PulJ Pa,

(page 25)

10Jirm pears e.g. Packhams

3259/1102/'l% cups cdster sugdr

50g/2oz/'y' stick unsalted butter, dircd

::l "l.:::

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DESSERTS I 5 I

Poached pears red winein spiced--rS DtsH ts oBltctNGLy ADApTABLE. Senveo oN THETR owN, poAcHED

,!IRS MAKE A SIMPLE, LIGHT AND REFRESHING DESSERT - IDEAL FOR AL

rf isco ENTERTAINING. Ar rHr AugeRctNe, wE AccoMpANy rHEM wtrH

:!AL scoops oF My Rrce PuoorNc (nncr 165), Fnesn GrNce n

,:i-cREAM (ence | 72), t HtzzL-Nur TurLle (ence 152), n rnrcrlr orr.rspBERRy sAUcE AND BRANDY sNAp srRtps. Tge cuolcr oF pEAR ts

TToRTANT: Pncrunys ARE My FAVouRtrE As rHEy HoLD THETR sHApE

Ai.L, BUT IF THEY ARE UNOBTAINABLE ANOTHER VARIETY OF SQUAT.SHAPED

riARwrLL Do,AS LoNGAS tr ls FtRM *ALMosr snRo.You NEEDTo srART

-- s REctpE ABour rwo DAys tN ADVANcE.Tge ourrueo LteuoR cAN BE

.:.U5ED ANOTHER TIME.

I Peel the pears thinly, leaving the stalks intact. For a decorative effect,

r-ir-c some of the skin around the stalk end and, using a small, sharp knife,

-: rhe skin into jagged points. Core the pears neatly from the base, using

" ':rrall, sharp knife.

I Place the pears in a large bowl and pour over the wine. Cover, transfer

:he refrigerator and leave the pears to macerate for about one day, turn-,-o'occasionally; this helps them develop a good rich colour.

t Have ready the Stock Syrup. Drain the wine into a saucepan large

:::.rugh to hold the pears upright. Add the Stock Syrup and spices, and

::rng to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the pears.

I Cover with a cartouche - a disc of greaseproof paper cut to fit exactly

.':.:.le the saucepan. Press it down on top of the pears to hold thern under

'^: liquor.

I Adjust the heat to maintain the barest simmer and poach the pears gen-

-,. tor 20-30 minutes or until a skewer or knife-tip can just be pushed into':. pears. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the pears to cool rn

'::r liquid. Cover and chill for one day. Drain, remove the spices and serve.

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

6 frm pears, ideally Packhams

1 x 75cl bottle red wine

200m1/7fl oz/l( cup Stock Syrup (page

1 cinnamon stick

5 cardamom pods

7 star anise

23)

*:,.ia-.ri4 ; ,- - :I:q-:J:-9*

oo ;. : ; 'l : i7,;9.

I 52 DESSERTS

Hazelnut tuilesWe sEnve rHEsE FLAT As A BASE roR Poncueo PrnRs tN Sptcro Rro

WrNr (rnce l5l), ro AccoMPANY DAINTY scooPs oF lcE-cREAM' oR

LIGHTLY CURLED AS PETITS FOURS.

I Lightly whisk the egg whites to a froth then beat in the remaining

ingredients. Chill for about 2 hours.

2 Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with

non-stick baking parchment and spread sma1l teaspoonfuls of the mixture

over it, allowing room for some expansion and using a palette knife to

scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use a homemade template (right).

3 Bake in batches of 4-6 until light golden brown, about 7 minutes. Scoop

off with a palette knife onto a wire rack where the tuiles will crisp up as

they cool. For an extra flat surface to the tuiles, lay a second baking tray

on top to flatten them as theY cool.

4 For curved tuiles, curl them over a rolling pin while still hot. Store in

an airtieht container.

Coconut tuilesWoruornrul wlrH NEwLY PtcKED RASPBERRIES AND HoMEMADE

Fness GrrucrR lce-cRenv (ence 172).

I Preheat the oven to 180"C,/350"F/Gas Mark 4.

2 Pass the desiccated coconut through a food processor until it is fine but

not reduced to a powder.

3 Add the icing sugar and flour and process for a few more seconds until

well blended, then add the egg whites and melted butter and process again

until you have a smooth, slightly runny paste.

4 Line a baking sheet with non-stick baking parchment and spread small

teaspoonfuis of the mixture over it, allorving room for some expansion,

using a palette knife to scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use a

homemade template (above right).

5 Bake as for Hazelnut Tuiles (above) and store in an airtight container.

INGREDIENTS (for about 24)

4 egg whites


2 59 / 1 oz / 2 tablespoons plain Jlour

250g/8oz/3 cups ground hazelnuts

3 scant tablespoons hazelnut oil

SHAPING TUILES

FoR pERFEcr RoUND TUrLEs, SpREAD THE tvltxruRE tNr:

RoUND TEMpLATES ABour 7.5cm/3tN otnMETER.Ttesi :

EASILY BE MADE AT HOME USING THE PLASTIC TOPS OF :

cREAM coNTAlNrns. Cur oFF THE RAISED EDGES oF -*:

LID, THEN DRAW AND CUT OUT AS MANY HOLES AS W ,.

coMFoRTABLy. Spneno n LtrrLE MtxruRE tNTo EAcH *:

THEN USE A PALETTE KNIFE TO LEVEL OFF THE TOP. LIF- :

THE TEMPLATE.

INGREDIENTS (for about 24)

759/2%oz/% cup desiccated coconut

7 59/2%oz /% cup icing sugar

259/ 1oz/2 tablespoons plain Jlour

2 egg whites

50g/2oz/% stick unsalted butter, melted and .

Mousse of blood-oranges*-rEN BLooD-oRANGES ARE tN SEAsoN,AND THEIR FULL-FLAVoURED JUtcE

t IVAILABLE,YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO MAKE THIS REFRESHING, FEATHER-

-€'{T, Mousse. Our oF sEAsoN, usE THE FRESHLy seuEEZED JUtcE oF

:-{ER TypEs oF oRANGES. lru rge RESTAURANT, wE MoULD THE MoussEs

F.-C PYRAMID SHAPES AND SERVE THEM W|TH WAFER-THtN TRTANGLES OF

}.1K CHOCOLATE, BUT YOU CAN SET THE MOUSSES SIMPLY IN RAMEKINS.

!,irvE wttH A LIGHT-TEXTURED ORANGE AND PASSTON FRUTT SAUCE.

I First make the mousse: boil the l7itre/I% pints/4% cups of mixed

'r rlain fresh orange juice until it has reduced by half to about 500m1/.!- oz/2 cups. Set aside.

I \leanwhile, make the Italian Meringue.

t lf using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in a bowl of iced warer until.,rened, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.

I l)ivide the quantity of reduced juice in half. Bring one halfjust to boil-:i point then add the soaked gelatine and stir briskly until dissolved. Ifr::'rg gelatine crystals, sprinkle these into the just boiled juice, whisking

::::rl dissolved. Stir in the remaining juice and strain through a fine sieve.

t \\'hisk the juice very gradually into the Italian Meringue, then set aside to

:.il to blood temperature. Meanwhile whip the cream until it holds in soft

r:lis.When the orange mousse mixture has cooled, gently fold in the cream.

I To accelerate the setting of the mousse, place the bowl in a larger bowl

: i :;ed wate r, stirring occasionally until the mixture is on the point of set-

:---q. Meanwhile, lightly grease 8-10 ramekin moulds.

I Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, tapping the bases gently to ensure

':--re are no air pockets. Chil1 for about 2 hours untii firm.

I While the mousses are setting, make the sauce: boil the 500m1,/18fl oz,z

i .ups orange juice until it has reduced by half. Cut the passion fruits rn

::ii and, with a small, sharp teaspoon, scoop their pulp and seeds into the

'::;e. Boil again for one minute. Add the Stock Syrup or sugar, tasting for-ieetness and adding more if necessary.Whisk in the cornflour and cook

':c sauce until it has a coating consistency.

I Remove from the heat and strain through a fine sieve. Cover with chng

lnr to prevent a skin from forming and leave until cold.To serve, dip the

"rnrekins briefly into boiling water, demould onto dessert plates and spoon

".cr the sauce.

DESSERTS I53


500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups Jresh orange juice and

500m1/18fl oz/2 cups fresh blood-orange juice

1 lilre/1% pinx/4% cups fresh orange juice

% x quantity Italian Meringue (page 24)

5 leaues gelatine or 7 sachet gelatine crystals

325m1/11J\ oz/1% cup double cream

a little sunflower oil, to grease

FORTHE SAUCE:

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups fresh orange juice

6 passion frwits

2-3 tablespoons Stock Syrup (page 2j) or

1-2 tablespoons caster sugar

1 teaspoon cornflour

Glazed summer fruits with sauce sabayon

I54 DESSERTS

THrs oessrRr BRTNGS ToGETHER, rN oNE MEMoRABLE DrsH, Two cLASSrc

SAUCES: A FRESH COULIS FRAMBOISE - WHICH CAN BE MADE WITH SLIGHTLY

ovERRrpE soFT FRUrr - AND A cunmpncNr sABAyoN. Rrpe suMMe n ge nny

FRUlrs ARE DRESSED LIcHTLY lN A RED coATtNG oF THE coults, THEN

DRtzzLED wrrH THE GOLDEN sABAyoN. FoR nru ELEGANTLY srMpLE

DESSERT LEAVE IT AT THAT, BUT FOR A MORE SOPHISTICATED PRESENTA-

TloN' ARRANGE THE couLls-coATED FRUlrs AND sABAyoN ARouND

SCOOPS OF SORBET, WHICH MIGHT EVEN BE SERVED WITU TUIITS (RRCr

| 52) on tN BRANDy sNAp BAsKErs.

I Pick over the fresh berry fruits, hulling or stoning where necessary.

Ideally, the strawberries should be small; large ones must be at least halved.

2 To make the coulis framboise, pur6e the raspberries with the sugar

to taste and the lemon juice, then rub through a sieve with a ladle

to remove the pips. Set aside to chill, along with the berry selection,

until ready to serve.

3 Make the sauce sabayon when you are ready to serve as it is best served

warm. Put the egg yolks, sugar and Champagne in a heatproof bowl and

set it over a saucepan of simmering water.'whisk with a hand-held elec*

tric beater or with a sturdy balloon whisk until you have a pale, creamy

mixture. The foam must be sufiiciently thickened so that it won't break

down on cooling: you should be able ro write a figure of eight with the

foam when you lift the beaters. Remove and cool the foam until tepid.4 To serve, toss the prepared fruits gently in the coulis and spoon ontoserving plates. Drizzle over the sabayon sauce. Ifyou intend serving scoops

of sorbet, then place these in rhe centre of each plate with the {iuitsarranged around them in a circle.

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

about 700g/ 1lb 9oz selection Jresh berry Jruit:..

e.g. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blatl:-

berri es, c h e rri es, ray berri es

FORTHE COULIS FRAMBOISE:

500g/1lb 2oz;fresh or frozen raspberries

(thawed if Jrozen)

100-1259/3%-4 oz/%-% cup caster sugar

juice of % lemon

FORTHE SAUCE SABAYON:

3 egg yolks

5 0g / 2oz /% cup caster sugar

100m1/3',1 Jl oz/% cup Champagne, at rooill

temperature

DESSERTS I55

Terrine of pi

and passiono rangen k grapefru it,

fru it:"ENTS OF GRAPEFRUIT AND ORANGE ARE LAYERED AT RANDOM WITH

" '. ANA AND STRAWBERRY, THEN SET tN A PASS|ON FRUTT jELLy FOR

. 'artztNG EyE-AppEAL. AN excrlle NT PALATE cLEANsER AND LtcHT To

.- HIS TERRINE IS IDEAL FOR THOSE OCCASIONS WHEN A SPECIAL FRUIT

):RT IS IN ORDER. I'VC TOUNO THAT IT IS VERY POPULAR WITH CHI.-

':\, ESPECIALLY lF SET lN iNDIVIDUAL DARIOLE IYOULDS,

' .] IT IS PARTICULARLY REFRESHING SERVED WITH SMALL SCOOPS OF

:..- GREy Trn SoReer (elcr 173).We oFrEN sERVE tr wtrH A couLts

'ASSION FRUIT, FINELY DICED MANGO AND STRAWBERRY.

.. 'ing a small serrated knife, cut the tops and bottoms off the citrus

:.. Cut away the remaining peel removing rvith it all the membrane.

-iurq each fruit in your hand, and working over a bowl, cut out each of..gnrents leaving the inner membranes behind. Discard any stray pips.

L ,'.rce the seplments on a clean tea towel to drain the juice and chil1 fbr

'lrs.Then place the segnents on a fresh tea towel to drain further and

.rqain for another hour.This is necessary as the segments must be suf-

-:rtlv dry not to leak into the jelly while setting.

i \leanwhile, make a passion fruit syrup: halve the passion frr-rits and

:tze their pulp and juice into a sieve placed over a bowl. Rub the pulp

: .ceds through using a wooden spool1. Discard the seeds and mix the

. : n ith the Stock Syrup.

4 ii r-rsing leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in a bowl of iced water until::,'ned, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.

5 i lcat half of the passion fruit syrup until it boils. Remove fi'om the

,r and stir in the soaked gelatine until dissolved. If usine gelatine

.t.ils, sprinkle directly into the boiled syrup, whisking until dissolved.

l ::i in the remainder of the passion fruit syrup, then strain the

'.rrrrc through r sieve.

5 I ine a 1 kg/2lb loaf tin with cling film, leaving an overhans of about

'-'rn/5in all round which can later be folded over the top.

7 \{ix the syrup with the citrus fruit sesments rhen spoon about

: :' third into the base of the loaf tin. Peel the bananrs and lrrange one

: them, whole, iengthways down one side of rhe tin: pl.rcc helf oi tl're

':.rri"berries down the other side.


6 pink grapefruits

8 large seedless oranges

6 passion Jruits

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Sntck Syrup (page 23)

5 leaues gelatine or ll sdchet gelatine crystals

2 large bananas

1 2 59 / 1o z .fi'esh strawberries, hulled

I56 DESSERTS

8 Spoon over more segments and syrup. Arrange the second banana

lengthways down the opposite side from the first one. Add rhe remainrrrg

strawberries, again on the opposite side. Finish by adding the remainrngsegments and juice. If you have any leftover syrup, carefully pour it rrr,

tapping the whole tin gentiy and allowing the syrup to find its own levelwithin the tin.

9 Tng the sides of the overhanging cling film gently to straighten thenfold it gently over on top. Place in the refrigerator to chil overnight oruntil firm.

l0 About 15 minutes before you are ready to unmourd the terri'e,transfer it to the freezer.Just before serving, unfold the cling film on topthen invert the terrine onto a serving platter or board. carefully removeall of the cling film. cut into slices about 2cm//,in thick, ideally withan electric carving knife, although a large serrated knife will do. Lift each

slice onto a serving plate using a fish slice.

xk$r$rdwws .g tr$*s& fftr#trtrStrssg.#$$#s€str #ss# F$d;f s$$wps 3*$s.,'r

Apricot and raspberrY souffl6s--:RE rs No MysrERy ro MAKTNG A PERFEcT Hor DEssERT sourrlE.Tue

: l:lNlQUE lS EASY TO GRASP AND, OBLIGINGLY, lT LENDS ITSELF TO

",,ANcE PREPARATION SO THAT THE SOUFFLE REQUIRES ONLY MINIMAL

,--:NTtoN AND A BRTEF BAKTNG JUST BEFoRE sERVING.A cnenr souFFLE,

-]UGH, IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS BASE: AS LONG AS THIS IS FULL AND

:/OURSOME,ALLTHAT IS REQUIRED IS FORTHE EGGWHITESTO LIFTTHE

:.TURE tNTo rHE suBltME. Fon encu QUANTITY oF BASE MlxruRE' usE

-IER THE APRICOT OR THE RASPBERRY FRUIT PUREE.

H:ive ready the Crdme PXtissidre and set aside.

I t_oat the insides of the souffl6 dishes evenly with the butter. Sprinkle

:1 the chocolate, turning the dishes and tapping out any excess. The

.:ing helps the soufll6 to rise evenly so make sure there are no gaps'

I \1ake the fruit puree ofyour choice.

For the apricot soutA6: drain the juice from the can into a heaq/ pan'

- :-i the dried apricots and just enough water to cover. Simmer until the

::.ots are tender and most of the liquid has reduced, about 15 minutes'

- ,:rslbr to a liquidizer or food processor. Add the lemon juice, apricot

.:rdv and the canned apricots. Blend to a smooth pur6e; set aside to cool'

For the raspberry souffl6: blend the fruits to a pur6e with the sugar

-:r boil down to reduce by half. Cool, then rub through a sieve with a

.:-. to remove the pips.

4 Mix the pur6e of your choice with the Crdme Pitissidre, blending

'roughly.The mixture can be set aside at this stage if preparing ahead'

5 Preheat the oven to 190"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5 and place the soufi16

.les on a baking sheet.Whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks'

:.rdually whisk in the sugar. Beat half the meringue mixture into the

'.:ri pltissidre then fold in the remainder with a large metal spoon'

6 Spoon into the prepared dishes and scrape the tops 1evel with the back

: .r knife. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 10-12 minutes

:.ril the soufTl6s have risen drarnatically and evenly.

7 Now, act fast! Have the icing sugar ready in a sieve and as vou bring the

'.rtfl6s out of the oven, quickly dust the tops with sugar. Set each ramekin

:: a plate (use a fish slice for fast action serving) and sen-. instanth-'

DESSERTS I59

INGREDIENTS (makes 6 x 200m1/7fl oz or

I x l50ml/% pint souffl6s)

FORTHE SOUFFLE BASE:

% x quantity Crime Pdtissiire (page 22)

259/ 1oz/% stick softened butter

50g/2oz uery finely grated dark chocolate

4 egg whites

859/3oz/% cup caster sugar

a tablespoon or two oJ icing sugar, to dust

FORAPRICOT SOUFFLE:

1 x 4259/1102 can apricots in naturaljuice

1259/4oz/% cup ready-to-cook dried apricots

juice oJ % lemon

1 tablespoon apricot brandy

FOR RASPBERRY SOUFFLE:

500g/ 1lb 2oz fresh or frozen raspberries,

thawed if frozen

1259/1oz/% cup caster suga(

I6O DESSERTS

Hot chocolate fondantArrr rrvpRrssrvE FTNALE To A MEAL, THESE sMALL, sourrtE-lrrE FoNDANTS

CAN BE ENJOYED HOT, FRESH FROM THE OVEN. T*EY CAN BE FROZEN

UNCOOKED, THEN BAKED FROM FROZEN, SO IT IS WORTH MAKING UP A

BATCH, EVEN rF you cnN'r EAT THEM ALL AT oNE srrrNG. comroRrrNcoN A coLD wTNTER'S DAy,wE sERVE THEsE wrrH A scoop or Grrucen tcr-cRrnN (encr 172) cnnNrsnED wrrH CnNoreo oRnruce pe er_ (elce lg7).

I Make up the Italian Meringue and set aside. Ir will hold well.2 Melt the 25g/roz/% stick of butter and use to brush the sides and bases

of 12 dariole moulds or ramekin dishes, then dust with the grated choco-late, turning the moulds and tipping out excess to ensure an even coatlng.

Set aside in the fridge to chill.

3 Place the pieces of chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan ofbarely simmering water. Melt, stirring occasionalry, then remove and coolro room temperature.

4 sift together the flour, cocoa powder and cofTee. prace the yolks and

1509/5oz/7% sticks softened butter in a mixing bowl and whisk toqetheruntil emulsified, about 2-3 minutes.

5 whisk the flour mixrure inro the yolks and butter, foltowed by themelted chocolate and, finally, fold in the Italian Meringue. Spoon or plpethe mixture into the prepared moulds or ramekins, tapping the mouldsgently to ensure there are no air gaps, then level the tops with the back ofa knife. If not immediateiy required, they can be placed in the freezer. oth-er-wise wrap in cling film until ready to bake.

6 For the hot chocolate sauce, which can be prepared an hour or so

before serving, put the water, sugar and cocoa powder into a saucepan and

heat gently, stirring all the time, until the sugar and cocoa have clissolved.

Bring to the boil, still stirring, then add rhe cream.

7 Return to the boil and simmer for 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently untilthe sauce coats the back of the spoon. Remove and cool slightly, thencover the top of the sauce loosely with cling film to prevent a ski' formi.g.8 when you are ready to eat the fondants, preheat the oven to L90"c/375"F/Gas Mark 5. Remove any cring firm, prace as many moulds orramekins as required on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or, if theyhave been frozen, for about 20 minutes, until risen and firm on top.9 Demould onto dessert plates. pour the warm sauce over rhe too andserve immediately.

INGREDIENTS (for l2)1 x quantity Italian Meringue (page 24)

1509/5oz/1% sticks softened unsalted butter y.:

259/1oz/% stick extrafor greasing

3509/12o2 dark chocolate at least 60%o cocoa

solids, broken in pieces plus 50g/2oz extra,

;finely grated

10g/1% oz/% cup plainJlour

259/1oz/% cup cocoa powder

3 teaspoons instant co-ffee granules

5 egg yolks

FORTHE HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE:

150m1/% pint/% cup cold water

1259/4oz/7 cup sugar

40g/1% oz/% cup cocoa powder

j00nl/% pint/ 1% cups double cream

Chocolate tart5r-rr.,r, olRr AND DElrctous - A THtN, cRtsp pAsrRy cASE coNTRAsrs

IIBLIMELY WITH A VELVETY GANACHE OF BITTER CHOCOLATE THAT IS LIGHTLY

3AKED AND sET To A Glossy FrNrsH. Some unvr sArD THrs ts rHE BEsr

:HocoLATE rnnr even! lr vou wlsu. DEcoRATE wtrH cHocoLATE TRTANGLES.

I Have ready the Rich Sweet Pastry and the Candied Orange Pee1.

2 On a lightly floured board, ro11 out the pastry dough so that it is large

:rrough to 1ine, with some overhang, a21crn/9in flan tin with a removable

:rse. Do not trim too exactly at this stage, allowing the edges to overhang

.-rghdy. Press the pastry well into the sides and make sure there are no tears.

irghdy prick the base. Reserve any leftover pastry for patching.

3 Cover with foil, weigh down the base with baking beans and chi1l in the

:'ririgerator for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F,/Gas Mark 4.

I Place the flan case on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes or

'rntil the pastry is just set. Remove the foii and baking beans. using a sharp

inife, trim the edges neatly. Patch any tears with leftover pastry. The aim is

:o have an unbroken top edge so the fi1ling remains 1eve1.

t Return the flan case to the oven for 5 minutes or until it just begins to

.'olour; remove and brush rvith a glaze of egg yolk beaten in a little water.

Lower the oven to 130"C/250"F,/Gas Mark % andbake the case for 3 mrn-

utes to seal the glaze. Remove and set aside.

6 Meanwhile, place the chopped chocolate in a bow1. Bring the milk and

;ream just to the boil in a saucepan, then pour onto the chocolate, whisk-

rng until the chocolate has melted and the ingredients have amalgamated.

7 Put the beaten eggs in another bowl and pour in the chocolate mixture,

*-hisking well. Strain through a fine sieve to ensure the mixture is smooth.

8 Return the flan case to the baking sheet and place on the oven shelf which

rou have lifted out slightb. Pour the chocolate nrixture into the case, taking the

rnixture as high up the sides as you dare. It should be almost flush with the top.

9 Carefully reposition the shelf and bake the tart for about 25 minutes or until

the fi1ling has started to set. Tr:rn off the oven, leaving the tart inside for a fur-

ther 30 minutes, then remove and set aside to cool compietely. 'When cool,

push up the base to remove from the tin. Garnish with whipped cream and

Candied Orange Peei dusted with icing sugar and cocoa powder.

DESSERTS I 63


% x quantity Rich Sweet Pa*ry (page 26)

1 egg yolk beaten with a little water, to glaze

1009/1102 dark chocolate, ideally 50%o cocoa

solids, Jinely chopped

150m1/% pint/% cup milk

250m1/9Jl oz/1 cup double cream

2 eggs, beaten

TO SERVE:

1 x quantity Candied Orange Peel (page 187)

whipped cream

rcxng sugar

cocoa powder

i:$s w #w $# sx

I64 DESSERTS

Frtllrave au cnocolatTue ulrtvnrE cHocoLATE MoussE To SERVE wtrH RASpBERRTES oR wtrH

A vANtLLA tcE-cREAM, oR wtrH gorH. lN rHe AueERctNE, wE sERVE THts

MOUSSE OF DARK CHOCOLATE ON A CRISP BASE OF WHITE CHOCOLATE IN

sMALL TNDTvTDUAL MouLDs. Ar Hove you MAy FtND tr EASTER To MAKE

oNE LARGE MoussE. ANoruen oploN wouLD BE To sKIp rHE BAsE AND

JUST spooN THE MoussE oNLy rNTo ELEGANT wtNE GLASSES. I HLvr

ADAPTED THE BASE FOR DOMESTIC COOKS SINCE IN THE RESTAURANT WE

usE spEctAL TNGREDIENTS tMpoRTED rRom FRRNcE: cRUsHED wAFERS

KNowN ns Pnrrrerre Ftut-:.r-rtNt AND A pRALTNE pnsrE. FoR A GooD,

srRoNG cHocoLATE FLAVoUR, cHoosE cHocoLATE wrrH neour 60%

cocoA solrDs.Tns oesseRr cAN BE MADE AND FRozEN AHEAD.

I For the base, melt thc whitc chocolate with the cream, in a bowl set

over a pan of gently sirnmering wrter. stirring occasionally until smooth.

Remove the bowl and set aside.-When cool,beat in the liquid glucose.

2 Stir the crushed fan r,vafers or cornflakes into the chocolate. Place the

otrtside ring of a 21,cn/9in cake tin, without the base, onto a flat serving

plate and press the mixture into it with the back of a spoon. It should be

nice and even.Transfer to the refrigerator.

3 For the mousse, rnelt the dark chocoiate in a bowl set over a pan of

gently simmering water, stirring occasionally. Take care not to let it over-

heat or it will 'seize' and become difficult to stir to a snlooth cream.

Remove the bowl from the pan and cool to roonl temperature.

4 Put the egg yolks, sugar and water into a larger bowl. Set it over a pan

of sirnmering w;rter. lJsing a balloon whisk or a hand-held electric beater,

whisk until you have a thick, pale gold foam.You should be able to draw

a figure of eight with the trail of foam r,vhen it is the right consistency.

Fold in the melted chocolate with a nretal spoon then chill in the refrigerator.

5 When the chocolate rnixture is cool, rvhip the cream and niik togeth-

er in another bowl until soft peaks form. Fold half of this crearn mixture

into the chocolate mixture and, once it is incorporated, fold in the

remainder. This two-stage process will ensure a nice light texture. Spoon

the mousse mixture onto the crushed wafer base in the cake tin, spread-

ing evenly to ensure a level surface. Return to the refrigerator to set.

6 'When the mousse is firm, run the tip of a knife around the ring and lift

it away. Slide a palette knife under the base of the flan to loosen it, but

keep it on the same plate. Serve with raspberries and vanilla ice-cream.


FOR THE WHITE CHOCOLATE BASE:

859/3oz white chocolate, broken into pieces


1 teaspoon liquid glucose

3 Pompadour ice-cream;fan wa;fers or 859/302, .;

cornflakes, crushed into fne crwmbs

FORTHE DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE:

300g/10o2 dark chocolate, broken in pieces

4 egq yolks

1259/4oz/% cup caster suga{

90ml/3Jl oz/',4 cup cold water

300m1/% pint/1% cups double cream

100m1/3'/.J1 oz/% cwp milk

TO SERVE:

fresh raspberries

uanilla ice-cream

My rice pudding

A well-r-oveD FAVouRrrE To wHtcH I noo n sopHtslcATED ToucH oF

cnEvE nNclRrse. Tur cREAMy, MoussE-LtKE TEXTURE oF THts RtcE puD-

DING MEANS IT HAS GREAT APPEAL AS A COLD DESSERT, AND IT CAN BE

I'OULDED INTO LITTLE OVALS AND SERVED AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO

FRUrr sucH ns PoncuEo Pmns rN Sprceo Reo WrNe (encr l5l).Howeven, rr rs EeuALLy AccEpTABLE wHEN pREsENTED As A DESSERT tN

ITS OWN RIGHT, SERVED IN SMALL CUSTARD CUPS OR ELEGANT STEMMED

GLASSES AND, PERHAPS, TRICKLED WITH A PUREE OF MANGO OR PRUNES.

Gooo,Too, sERVED Hor AS A TRADIIoNAL RtcE puDDtNG.

I In a large heavy-based saucepan, bring the milk and cream to scalding

point. Meanwhile, split the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and add the."

elong with the pod itself, to the saucepan.

2 Stir in the rice and bring to the boil. Lower to a slow simmer and con-

rinue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes, or until the rice rs

soft and the mixture reduced and thickened.

3 In a large bowl beat the yolks with the sugar until the mixture 1s

pale and smooth.'When the rice mixture is ready, beat it gradually into the

egg mixture.

4 Return the mixture to the pan and very gently reheat until it thickens

again, stirring occasionally. Cool, stirring once or twice to stop a skrn

tbrming, then chill over a bowl of iced water until set.

5 To serve as an accompaniment, shape into quenelles (page 173) using

) dessertspoons.Alternatively, press into small moulds using round cutters

piaced on dessert olates.

DESSERTS I 65


500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups milk

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups double cream

1 uanilla pod

180g/5oz/1 cup round-grain pudding rice

12 egg yolks


Cassonades

i- THE AueeRctNe, wE sERVE ruEse CnssoNADEs, oR cusrARDS, IN

I VARIETY OF FLAVOURS IN DAINTY CUSTARD CUPS, ARRANGING A SELEC-

- cN oF THREE As AN INDtvtDUAL sERVtNG. Bur ruEv ARE EQUALLY GooD

..R.vED srNGLy MADE tN A LARGER cusrARD cup oR RAMEKIN. PopulnR

.-AVouRS tNCLUDE vANILLA, sARRTETTE (onreo wto ruvme) AND coFFEE

rHE LATTER EMpLoyrNG A HoMEMADE ESsENcE (aelow). Bur wnv,

'ou MAy AsK, Do wE usE UHT vrlr? Tsr eNswen ts tr HELPs ro:-ABILIZE THE CUSTARD MIXTURE DURING BAKING AND IT ALSO MEANS

--1AT WE CAN USE FEWER EGGS.

| l)ut the cream, milk and the flavouring of your choice into a large

..1cepan and bring it to scalding point. Preheat the oven to

:tt"C/225"F/ Gas Mark Low.

2 Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks in a large bowl. \Vhen the milk just

-rrrs to rise up the sides of the pan, pour it onto the yolks, whisking con-

'::rr-rously, then whisk in the sugar untii dissolved.

3 Strain through a fine sieve, discard the flavourings, then pour into

ramekin dishes which have been set out on a baking sheet. Bake for:-i -15 minutes until just set, then cool and chill until firm.

4 To serve, sprinkle with a light, even layer of demerara sugar and place

.'rrler a very hot. preheated grill to glaze; or, if you have one, use a hand-

::ld flame torch to caramelize the susar. Cool and serve.

Homemade coffee essenceI In a heavy-based saucepan, moisten the caster sugar with a small drop

i liquid glucose and the rvater. Dissolve slowly, over a low to medium

r.at, stirring occasionally, brushing the pan sides down with water if crys-

- l- .l^-l!1\ )t4rr

2 'When every grain has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and boil the

.,.'rup steadily until it just begins to caramelize. Remove from the heat and

-.rrefully mix in the instant coffee granules.

3 Cool. then borrle and ure as requtrcd.

DESSERTS I67

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

FORTHE BASIC CUSTARD:

500m1/18J1 oz/2 cups double cream

100m1/3'/zJl oz/% cup UHTJull cream milk

4 egg yolks

859/3oz/% mp caster sugar

demerara sugar, Jor sprinkling

FOR TH E FLAVOUR VARIATIONS:

2 ua,rnilla pods, split and seeds scraped out

259/1oz sdrriette sprigs (dried wild thyne)

of

z sprrgs .fresh tn),mc

l)'sgt+ort% cup cofee beans plus 1 tablespoon

Homemade Cofee Essence (belout)

INGREDIENTS (makes about 350m1/

l2flozllZcups)300g/1002/1% cups caster sugar

drop o;f liquid glucose

about 1 tablespoons cold water

100g/3%oz/2 cults instant co;ffee granules

[-

I 68 DESSERTS

crdme brol6e with roasted rhubarbHsne, nHuenRB AND cusrARD rs crvEN A sopHrsrrcATeo tRrntve*t THrenOLEe cusrARD rs MADE DTFFERENTLy FR.M REGULAR cusrARD: suGAR rs

ADDED AFTER THE MILK HAS BEEN BEATEN ONTo THE YoLKs, REsULTING IN ATHICK MIXTURE THAT ALLOWS THE VANILLA SEEDS TO BE HELD IN SUSPENSION.

Wr sERvE THrs wrrH A TrNy scoop oF RAspBERRy soRBET AND A MrNT spRrc.

I Have ready the Dried Strawberries if using, and theJus de Fraises.

2 Peel away the stringy, coarse ribs of the rhubarb then cut the stalks firstnto lcnt/ 1'%rn lengths, then into bltons. Heat the butter and honey in a rargefrying pan until bubbling, then add the rhubarb in a single layer and ,roast,

gently for about 5 minures, turning carefulry, until softened but still whore.3 Drain in a sieve then spread out on a crean tea towel to absorb excessmolsture' change the towei twice more. It is important to drain trrerhubarb thoroughly so that it doesn,t rise during baking.4 Meanwhile, line the base of six ramekin disrres with discs of greaseproofpaper.whe'r the rhubarb is quite dry, clivide between the dishes, spreadingthe pieces neatlv over the bases.Arrange the ramekins on a baking sheet.5 Slit the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds and mix with the crear.n. put thecream, rnilk and empuy pods into a large saucepan and bring slowly to the boil.6 Meanwhile, in a large bowi, beat the yorks with a whisk until srnooth anda paler shade of yellow. Preheat the oven to 120"C/225"F,/Gas Mark Low.7 When the cream mixture starts to boil and rise, pour it, in stages, ontothe yolks, whisking continuousry. Stir in the caster sugar until it has arl dis-solved Strain through a fine sieve into a jug arrd discard the

'anilla pods.

8 Pour a little of the custard over the rhubarb in the ramekins and transrbrto the oven for 20 rlinutes or until the mixtr-rre has set enough to hold therhubarb in piace. Pour in the renraining custard and cook for a further 45-60 minures or until lightly set. The cusrard is ready whe n, if tippecl, it comesaway siowly frorr rhe sides of the mourd and is srightly wobbry in the centrc,9 cool, then chill until quite firm.To unmould, run a table k'ife roundthe edge of each ramekin and invert onto a prate. Remove the paper discs.l0 Sprinkle the custards with demerara sugar, then caramerize, either with a

hand-he1d blowtorch, or by placing under a hot grill. Tuck the Dried Strar,v-

berries just beneath the top of each brrl6e and spoon round the |us t1e Fraises.

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

2 5 0g / 9oz rhubat b, ledues discarded

1 59/%oz / 1 tahlespoon unsdlted butter

7 dessertspoon cledr honey

2 uanilLa pods

35)ntl/12-fl oz/1% utps double cream

125ntl /|-fl oz/% cup L:HT whole rnilk

6 egg yolks

759/2%oz/% cup cdster sugdr

TO SERVE:

Dried Strawberries (page 187) (optionat)

Jus de Fraises (page 22)

demerara sugar, Jor sprinkling

:l::rir'.1'l

t.ii, "',i ,,tl. tlr.,.. ,l;

,"""f ii:,,:i:ril

lt tif i-.- lt,t ,r

For me, there is little to match the satisfaction of making lcomemade ice-creams'what

ptarticularly appeals is the sheer uariety of ;flauours yne can create, reflecting 6n orig-

ittality and subtlety that becomes truly unique' There is a good practical

redson) too,for making ice-cream at home - it is uery simple and inuariably popwlar!

At the Aubergine, we use ice-creams and sorbets to accompany mdny

o-f our desserts, spooning the frozen mixtures into qwenelle shapes using

teaspoons, or seruing as mowlds. But they (lre also impressiue enough to stand

,tlone: a selection of, sa!, three or four can be made ahead and stored ready for

sp,ntdneous seruing. If frozen ahead in this way, the ices will require a resting

period of around 10 minutes at room temperature to soften their texture

sufficiently for scooping and seruing'

Ice-crearns and sorbets consist of flauowrings added to the basic mixtures:

Crinte Anglaise for ice-creams, and syrwps for sorbets' Intense cold can mask

_flauours and this must be compensated for by preparing mixtures that dre

tuell sweetened and well flauoured '

I72 ICE.CREAMS AND SORBETS

Crdme anglaise

My tce-cRcRMs ARE MADE By ADDTNG FLAVoURtNGs ro A RlcH BASE oF

CnEyE ANcr-Lrse.TuE FLAVoURtNGS ARE ADDED EITHER AT THE BEGtNNtNG

OF MAKING THE CUSTARD, FOR EXAMPLE WITH VANILLA, CINNAMON OR

ctNGER tcE-cREAMS, oR AT THE END As wtrH pRUNE nNo AnmLctrtAc IcE-

cREAt4. lce-cnenNs ARE BEsr cHURNED DURTNG FREEZTNG tN ELEcrRlc

MACHINES WHICH BREAK DOWN ICE CRYSTALS EFFORTLESSLY INTO A

stLKy TEXTURT. lN lur ABSENcE oF AN ELEcrRtc tcE-cREAM MAKER,

MOST MIXTURES MUST BE BEATEN BY HAND WITH A STRONG BALLOON

WHISK THREE OR FOUR TIMES DURING FREEZING TO BREAK UP THE ICE

CRYSTALS AND LOOSEN THE TEXTURE ALTHOUGH THE RESULT WILL NOT

BE AS SMOOTH AS MACHINE-CHURNED ICES.

I In a large heavy-based saucepan, heat the milk, cream and any flavour-

ing. stirring occasionally. until the mirturc corncs jrrsr up to the boil.

Remove fronr the heat and allow the flavourings to infuse for 10 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, set a large niixing bowl on a damp cloth - to steady the

bowl - and whisk together the yolks and sugar until the mixture turns pale

golden and you can drarv a figr,rre of eight across the surface.

3 Return the flavoured milk and creanl to the heat and bring back to the

boil.'When the mixture begins to creep up the sides of the pan,imrnedi-

ately remove from the heat and pour half of it into the yolks and sugar,

whisking well.'When the mixture is well blended, reheat the remaining

creamy milk and rvhisk this in too until lve1l blended.

4 Pour the custard mixture back into the pan and, on the lor,vest possible

heat, stir for approximately 2 n-rinutes using a wooden spoo11, until the

mixture coats the back of the spoon and has a consistency similar to that

of double cream.Your finger should be able to draw a line through the

mixture on the back of the spoon that will make a definite parting. Do not

allow the custard to boil or it will curdle. If you have a sugar

thermometer, you can check this by aiming for a reading of 82"C,/175"F.

5 Strain the mixture into another bowl through a fine sieve, discarding

any flavourings, and cool down as quickly as possible by standing in a larg-

er bowl of iced water. Stir occasionally to prevenr a skin forming. Cool

then chill L1ntil readv to freeze.

INGREDIENTS (for 5 generous servings or

8-l0 smaller ones)

500m1 / 1 8_11 oz /2 ups milk

500rnl/18J1 oz/2 cups double crearn

12 egg yolks

180g/6oz/l cup caster sugar

FLAVOURVARIATIONS:

Enough.for one quantity of Crime Anglaise:

Vanifla lce-cream: scrdpe the seeds _from 2 sy

pods into the milk and crenm, and ddd the cnty'

pods too.

Cinnamon lce-cream: ddd 1 stick oJ cinnani.

and 2% leuel teaspoons ground cinn.amon to tl're rtti .

and cream.

Fresh Ginger lce-cream: add 50g/2%oz pttl.

":rOr:^*rO -fr,esh root ginger into the milk ,ti

Prune and Armagnac lce-cream: pit and Jin,.

chop 150g/5oz pltunp French prunes. Maceratt

3 tablespoons oJ Arrnagnac -for at l.east 8 ltot'

or ouern.ight. Make the ice-cream up to the churut'

stage and when about three-quarters oJ the rt.:

through thurning (the end qf step 7), stir in t,

fruit and liqueur.

CHURNING AND FREEZING:

6 If you are using an ice-cream maker fol1ow the manufacturer's instruc-

:rons to churn the CrdmeAnglaise. If you don't have a machine,beat the

mixture by hand using a balloon whisk or a strong fork. Pour the chilled

nrixture into a shallow container and set in the coldest part ofthe fteezer,

or switch on the fast-freeze switch, depending on your type of freezer.

7 As ice crystals begin to form around the edges, remove the container

irom the freezer and use a strong balloon whisk or a large fork to beat the

crvstals into the rest of the mixture. Return to the freezer. Repeat this

process about 3-4 times. The ice-cream will gradually become stifTer, yet

rofter in texture.

8 'When the ice.cream is of a firm dropping consistency, cover and leave

rn the freezer until it is required. If you have made the ice-cream ahead of

rime and it is very firm, allow it to soften for about 10 minutes at room

temDerature.

So rbets

THe enstc METHoD FoR soRBETs ts SIMPLE: sUGAR ls DlssoLVED INwATER oR

JUrcE THEN BOILED GENTLY, CHILLED AND CHURNED. PARADOXICALLY, ACID' lN

THE FORM OF LEMON OR LIME JUICE, HELPS INTENSIFY THE SWEETNESS.

Earl Grey tea sorbetI In a large, hearry-based saucepan, bring the water and sugar slowly to the

boil, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the sugar has completely

dissoived. Raise the heat and iet the syrup boil rapidly for 5 minutes.

2 Remove from the heat, add the Earl Grey tea bags and leave them to

infuse for 10 rninutes.Add the lime and lemon iuices then strain the liq-

uid into a jug. Cool and chill.

3 Churn in an ice-cream machine to a soft ice texture and either serve

straight away or transfer to a freezer container and store in the freezer for

up to two weeks. Allow to soften slightly at room temperature before

serving or shape into quenelles (above).

ICE-CREAMS AND SORBETS I73

SHAPING QUENELLES

To SERVE THE rcE-cREAM As eUENELLES, scooP THE

SLIGHTLY SOFTENED ICE.CREAM AND SHAPE BETWEEN

2 rrnspooNs, IHEN pLAcE oN A TRAY. Retunx to tue

FREEzERTo nnv.TuevnReIHEN READY FoR PLACING oN

PLATES WHEN YOU ARE ABOUT TO SERVE.

INGREDIENTS (for 6 generous servings

or 8-10 smaller ones)

900m1/1% pints/4 cups cold water

250g/9oz/1% cups caster sugdr

6 Eail Grey teabags

juice oJ 1 lime

juice o;f 7 lemon

I74 IC]E_CIIEAMS ANl) SORBETS

Blood-orange sorbetI hr a laree, heavv-based sallcepan, bring the rvater and sugar slowly to the

boil.:rirring gcrrtlr with a riooden spoon. until the sugrr har cornplctcly

dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil rapidlv for 5 nrinures.

2 Rerlove from the heat, add the orange and lemon juices, then strain.

Cool and chill.

3 Churn in an ice-cream machine to a soft ice texture and either serve

straight away or transfer to a freezer colttainer and store in the freezer lbr

up to two rveeks. Allou' to soften slightly at roorn ternperature before

serving or shape into quenelles (page 173).

Pineapple sorbetI Peel, core and chop the pineapple into small chunks.

2 Lr a large, heavy-based saucepan, bring the rvater and sr-rgar slor,vly to the

boil. stirring gentlr- rvith a r,vooden spoon, until the sugar has completely

dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil r;pidlv for 5 rninures.

3 Stir in the prneapple arrd poach until soft, about 10 nrinutes.

Cool slightl1', then pur6e and strain. Cool conrpletelv and chill.

4 Chr-rrn in an ice-cream machine to a soft ice terture and either serve

straight a\vav or transfer to a lreezer container and store in the freezer for

Llp to two r,veeks. Allotv to soften sliehtly at room teruperature before

serving or shape into quenelles (page 173).

Bitter chocolate sorbetTlts u,rrs cHocoLATE tcE-cREAM tNTo A NEw DtMENStoN - DARK AND

DELICIOUS WITHOUT BEING RICH AND CREAMY.ALTUOUCI-I SIMPLE TO MAKE,

THIS ICE CAN ONLY BE MADE USING AN ELECTRIC ICE-CREAM MAKER WITH

ITS OWN BUILT.IN FREEZER UNIT.

I Put the milk. rvater, sugar and glucose on to the hear, srirring until dis-

solved, then bring to the boil.

2 Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, srirring r-rntil smooth.

3 lleturn to the heat, bring back to the boil, then strain through a fine

sieve and leave to cool ur-rtil rvarm and still runny.

4 Pour into an electric ice-creat'u machine and churn until smooth and a

soft fiozen texture. Cover and store until required.This can be shaped into

quenelles for serving (page 173).

INGREDIENTS (for l0 generous servings

or l5 smaller ones)

500m1/18fl oz/2 cups rcld ruater

10014/ 14oz / 2 cups caste t sLtgdl

900m1/ 1% pints / 4 cttps .frash blood-orange juitt

juice oJ 7 lemon

INGREDIENTS (for 5 generous servings

or 8-10 smaller ones)

1 ripe medium pineapple

600m1/1 pint/2% cups cold watet

250g/9oz/1% cups cdster sugdr

INGREDIENTS (for 6 generous servings o.

8- l0 smaller ones)

250nil/9J1 oz/1 cup ntilk

250n1/9J1 oz/ 1 atp cold water

1509/5oz/% tup cdster sugar

5 0g / 2oz / 2 tablespoons li quid glucose

2009/7oz dark chocolate, at least 50,% cocoa ,;broken into pieces

Parfaits

Yv pnRrnrrs ARE A coMBrNATroN oF A Mousse-rrre PAre R BoMee,

yERtNGUE MtxruRE AND A FLAVoURED wHtppED CREAM. Pnnrntrs Do Nor

\EED To BE cHURNED DURTNG FREEZtNG. Tgts ls BECAUSE THE HtGH

'ERCENTAGE OF I'4ERINGUE MEANS THAT AIR HAS ALREADY BEEN

NcoRpoRATED wHtcH MAKES THE TEXTURE styoorHER.Tlts Nnrcrs rHrr

:ASIER TO MOULD, EITHER lN INDIVIDUAL RAMEKINS, OR lN A LOAF TIN WHEN

r cAN BE SERVED cur tN st-tces.ArrrnnATrvEly,A FRozEN pARFAtr MIXTURE

cAN BE SHApED rNTo eUENELLEs usrNG 2 oessenrspooNs (pnce 173).

Banana parfaitlN THE RESTAURANT I srnvr rHrs wrrH cARAMEL AND cocoA-BEAN

wAFERS AND sLrcES oF BANANA DtppED rN Hor cARAMEL. FoR n srmplen

pRESENTATToN rr woRKS wELL sERVED wrru Brrrrn CHocolnrr Sonarr

(ence 174) xs Hpne, DRreo SrRnweenRres (ence 187),wrrr rHE GLAZED

FRUTTS FROr-r rse GU,ZeO SUwVTR FRUTTS Wrrs SLUCr SnenyON nECrpe

(nece 154) on wrrH slrcES oF rHE Tr,rrru or Penns (ence 148). Use ve nv

RIPE BANANAS FOR THE BEST FLAVOUR.

I Whisk together the Pite i Bombe and the French Meringue mixtures.

They should be in ror-rgh1y equal amounts by volume.

2 Lightly rvhip the cream to the same consistency as the Pite i Bombe

:rnd French Meringue mixture then rvhisk both nrixtures foqcther.

3 Fina11y, rvhisk in the banana pur6e and lirlucur. Pour or pipe into

ranrekins, a long loaf tin or a large freezer container. Freeze until firrn.

4 About J0 nrinutcs [cFor+ .eruirro tr rn\Gr rhe prrfuit fronr thc l-reezer

tn the refrioerrfor'"'__'_.-__-b.-_*'"_'

5 To unnrould the p.rrltair ju.t bclorc rcrvirrq. rLrrr rlrc tip ,rt'.r krrilc

around the edge of the mor-rld to ioosen it.'Wrap the nror-rld for several

minutes in a towel wrutrg onf in verl hof \\'.lter. thcn inr-elt the mould

onto a serving plate.

6 Serve each slice with a scoop of Bittel Chocolatc Sorbct .rrcl ql'rrish

.-rith the rrinf cnritrq

ICE_CI{EAMS AND SORtsETS I77

INGREDIENTS (for l0-12 servings)

1 x quantity PAte i Bombe (pdge 23)

% x quantity French Meringue (page 24)

3 00ml /% pint / 1',4 cups double cream

3 uery ripe bananas, mashed to a thick purie

2 tablespoons Crime de Banane or white rum

7 x quantity Bitter Chocolate Sorbet (pdge 171)

fetu sprigs mint

This is where we can show ofJ without ouert boasting. These swbtle towches, which

show louing care) dre all prepared ahead when we haue time, then stored in

airtight tins ready in seconds for setting off owr chosen dish: whether Shredded

Leeks to garnish Roasted Monkfish with

Strawberries to decorate Crime Br{tlie

perhaps, A mousse or an ice-credm.

The techniqwe of drYing slices of fruit, -for use

prouides great scype. I do enjoy the process as the end results

tions, adding a breathtaking finishing touch to simple desserts'

fruits that yow cdn Ltse, including apples, strawberries' mangoes

basic principles are always the same.

Red Wine Sauce (Pogt 113) or Dried

with Roasted Rhwbatb (Pogt 168) or,

as a finishing touch,

make stunning decota-

There a{e a great manY

and pineapples, but the

I80 FINISHING TOUCHES

Shredded leeks

ONe or ouR LtcHT GARNtsHES wHtcH ts EAsy ro MAKE tN euANTtry AND

sroRE rN AN ATRTTcHT poLyrHENE coNTATNER. lrusrRucrrorus ARE GrvEN FoR

oNE LEEK (wutcn MAKEsA lor) survou MAywtsHTo tNcREAsETHEAMouNT.

I Tiim the leek of roots and tops, then slit down to the centre withoutcutting in half. Remove the inner section of the leek (use this in another

dish) leaving about 3-4 outer layers.

2 cut the ieek layers inro 1,0cn/4in lengths and fold each section in rwo

horizontally, i.e. the opposite way to its natural fold. Using a very sharp

cook's knife, shred finely. Repeat with the remainder of the 1eek.

3 Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and scatter the shreds roosely

over. Bake in the oven set at irs lowest heat, about 120"c /225"F/Gas MarkLow. If it is still too hot,prop the oven door ajar. cook for about 2 hours

or until the leek shreds feel dry and crisp, yet still retain a green colour.

4 To serve, deep fry in hor oil, heated to about 170"C/325"\ for just

a few seconds to crisp and colour them even further. Drain and serve rn

delicate mounds as a sarnish.

Candied aubergine slices

THrsg Ltcurly CARAMELTzED slrcEs ARE DElrcrous sERVED As A GARNTsH

TO SAVOURY DISHES SUCH AS THE SNINO Or RONSTEO LNNCOUSTITE

(ence 54) RNo Rultp or LnMe Nlgorse (encr 135).

I cut 16 thin slices from the aubergine. Layer the slices in a colander,

sprinkling each layer lighdy and evenly with sea salt and casrer sugar inequal proportions. Leave to d6gorge for 15 minutes so that any bitterjuices are drawn out, leaving the slices limp.

2 Pat the slices dry in a clean tea towel. In a large frying pan add enough

olive oil to give a depth of lcm/%tn. Heat the oil to about 170C/325"F and.

fry the slices until crisp but not too brown. Drain on kitchen paper towels.

INGREDIENTS

1 large leek

uegetable oil, for frying

INGREDIENTS (makes l6 slices)

1 small long thin aubergine, ideally about 5unt )in diameter

sea salt, to digorge

cdster sugdr, to digorge

oliue oil,Jorfrying

: :'....j, ::

Drying fruitsloenlt.ITHE ovEN MUsr BE sET AT ARouNo 80"C/l70"F.Turs SETTTNG ls

OFTEN LOWER THAN MANY DOMESTIC OVENS CAN MANAGE, UNLESS THE

MODEL IS AN OLD-FASHIONED ONE FEATURING A PERMANENT PILOT LIGHT, OR

A vERy MoDERN oNE wtrH A DEFRosr SETTTNG. lr vouR ovEN cANNor

oBLTcE,TURN rr ro rrs LowEST sETTTNG, usuALLy I l0'C/225"F,AND pRop

THE DooR nlnn.You MAy FIND rr HELeFUL To HAVE AN ovEN THERMoMETER

tN THE ovEN To cHEcK THE TEMpERATunr. AlrgoucH AppLEs rAKE oNLy

ARoUND 2-3 uouns ro DRy, soME FRUtrs, sucH As STRAwBERRTES, cAN TAKE

up ro l8 gouRs, so BE pATTENT.THT rnurt MUsr BE sltcED THtNLy AND THE

SLICES ARRANGED WITHOUT TOUCHING EACH OTHER ON BAKING SHEETS

LtNEDwtrH NoN-slcK srLrcoNE BAKTNG sHEETING sucH AS Bnre-O-Gt-tor

(see pnce 189 ron srocrsrs). UNroRruunrEly, REGULAR BAKTNG pARcH-

MENT IS UNSUITABLE FOR THIS TECHNIQUE AS IT CAN GET WET CAUSING THE

FRUtr ro sttcr. All THEsE DRrED FRUrrs cAN BE MADE AHEAD oF TIME tN

LARGE BATCHES AND STORED IN WELL.SEALED.AIRTIGHT CONTAINERS.

Apple castles

lN n pRoresstoNAl KtrcHEN. wE FIND A usE FoR EVERyTHTNG - EVEN

npple srtxs! THrs unv rAKE you BACK To youR cHtLDHooD WHEN you

TRIED TO PEEL AN APPLE IN ONE GO, WITH THE SKIN SWIRLING INTO A

CONTINUOUS SPIRAL, EXCEPT THAT WE THEN DRY OUT THE SPIRAL AND

CURL IT INTO AN ARTISTIC SCULPTURE.

I Peel the apples thinly in a quite narrow continuous spiral without break-

ing. Dip into a bowl filled with the Stock Syrup mixed with the lemon

juice and place, skin-side up and in a flat curly'S'shape, on a baking sheet

lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting. Set the oven to its lowest

possible setting (see above) and leave the skins to dry for about 2)l hours.

2 To shape, kneei by the oven with a cooking rack in front ofyou. Pick

up a length of dried skin and curl it into a 3-D shape, like a sculpture.This

will start to harden and crisp so you need to work quite fast. The curling

process may take a little time to perfect, so persevere. Store in a large

airtisht container.

FINISHING TOUCHES I83

INGREDIENTSj-4 Cranny Smith apples

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock Syrup (page 23)

juice of % Iemon

I84 FINISHING TOUCHES

Apple tuiles

WT SERVE THEsE As A DEcoRATIoN FoR DESSERTS AND AS AN

ACCOMPANIMENT TO SORBETS AND ICE-CREAMS, BUT THEY ALSO MAKE

A LovELy swEET sNAcK, RESEMBLTNG AS THEy Do AppLE cnrses. JusrTWO APPLES WILL MAKE A LOT OF SLICES. IT HELPS TO HAVE A MANDOLIN

TO DO THE SLICING.

I Neatly core the apples, nraking sure the coring is quite cenrral. Pour

the Stock Syrr"rp into a bowl and mix with the lemon juice.

2 Using a nrandolin or a very sharp knife, cut the apples into slices about

1mm//oin thick.

3 Drop these into the lemon syrup to just coat, then arrange in a single

layer on a baking sheet lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting.

4 Dry out in the oven on its lowest possible serting (see page 183) for

about 2 hours, then remove the slices in relays and place them over a

rolling pin to curl. If you renrove them all at once they will crisp before

you can curl them.Alternatively, if you have a French baguette tin, curl the

slices inside the tubes. However, if you find curling difficult, bear in mind

the slices also look attractive served flat.

INGREDIENTS

2 Cranny Smith apples

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock

juice of % lemon., strained

Syrup (page 23) ;a

ffs!&

fiI

t

$

.r'iii

Dried strawberries

lr oruen FRUtrs cAN BE DRTED, wHy Nor sTRAWBERRIEs? ArreR sovE

HouRs oF EXpERtMENrrruc, I CAME up wtrH A wAy oF pRESERVTNG oNE oF

THE BEsr-LovED SUMMER FRUtrs. TurrR wnreR-THtN ELEGANcE MAKEs

THEM rDEAL As DELTcATE DEcoRATtoNs ron eROLErs AND tcE-cREAMs.

I Thinly slice the strawberries lengthways. Discard the end slices and 1ay

the large, middle slices out on baking sheets lined with non-stick silicone

baking sheeting. Make sure the slices don't touch each other.

2 Dry out in the oven on its lowest possible setting (see page 183) for

14-18 hours untii crisp and dry.Test one by snapping it in half.The colour

will have become more muted but the beautiful translucence more than

makes up for it.

Candied orange peel

Tgrs rnrrs A vERy vERSATTLE GARNIsH FoR BorH swEET AND sAVouRy

DISHES AND IS AN EXCELLENT USE FOR LEFTOVER ORANGE PEEL,

I Peel the oranges thinly, making sure there is no bitter pith attached to

the skin, and cut the peel into very fine julienne strips.

2 Blanch the peel in boiling water for 1 minute, drain then refresh in cold

water. Par dry with kitchen paper towels.

3 Pour the Stock Syrup into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the

blanched peel and simmer for about 10 minutes.

4 Using a slotted spoon, remove the peel from the Stock Syrup

and spread the strips out on a tray lined with non-stick silicone baking

sheeting. Place the tray in a very low oven, or a warm airing cupboard, for

about 45-50 minutes to dry out.

FINISHING TOUCHES I87

INGREDIENTS

Large weII- shaped strawberries, hulled

INGREDIENTS

2-3 oranges

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock Syrup (page 23)

KP $$d#d "$ f s"6E gsr $e f f"s"dtrs

I88 GLOSSARY

G lossaryAigre-doux A sauce combining sweetand sour flavourings.

Amuse-gueule Literally, a mouth amuse-ment, a bite-sized canap6 served at thevery start of a meal to tease the palate.

Bamix A hand-held electric blenderused to pur6e or beat foods until smooth,or to whisk up liquids into a cappuccinofroth. (For supplier see page 189.)

Beignet A sweet or savoury deep-fried fritter.

Blanch To dip fresh food briefly intoboiling water to soften it on the outsidewhilst the centre remains crisp. Blanchedfood is often then'refreshed'in coldwater (see right).

Brandade A dish offlaked fishmixed with other ingredients, usllallyincluding potatoes.

Caramelize To heat or cook a fooduntil it starts to turn a luscious goldenbrown and ukes on a slighrly smokyflavour.

Cassonade A custard with a burntsugar topping. From the French wordcassant, meaning brittle.

Caul fat The thin membrane lining ofa pig's stomach used in charcuterie andsausage-making. Used as a wrapping. itbathes ingredients in moisture, holdsthem together and leaves a delicate lacypattern when cooked. Caul fat can beordered in advance from speciaiitybutchers and must be soaked before use.

Clarify To remove the solid depositsfrom liquids by straining through a cloth,e o mc]fc.l hrrffPr

Concasse Evenly chopped food such as

Tomato Concasse (page 97).

Confit Literal.ly, a conserve.The food iscooked very gent\ in fat or oil and thenstored in the same fat or oil.

Court-bouillon A flavoured or aromaticliquid in which to poach fish, seafood orvegetables.

CrePinette A minced patty of meatencased in caul fat and fried.

Dariole Originally a small cake, nowmore often a term used to describe smallindividual moulds with sloping sides.

Deglaze To dilute pan juices producedwhen frying meats and vegetables, usingwater. stock. vincgar or wine.

D6gorge To encourage the release ofbitterjuices from ingredients such as

aubergines, cucumbers, courgettes andtomatoes by sprinkling them with saltand sugar.This process a-1so softens themsulficiently for gentle frying.

lnfuse To steep herbs, spices or otherflavourings in a hot liquid so rhat rheyimpart their delicate fragrance.

Julienne Food, generally vegetables, cutinto very thin strips. Named in honourof an 18th-century Paris chef,Jean Julien.

Liaison Combining thickening agentswith a liquid, e.g. eggs and cream, flourand milk.

Mille-feuille Literally, 1,000 leaves,normally associated with high-risc puffpastry desserts but now often used todescribe finely layered foods.

Muslin Very fine, loosely woven cottoncloth used for wrapping foods or to linecolanders and sieves for filtering liquidsuntil very clear. It can be ordered throughkitchen mail-order companies.'Well worn,but clean, tea towels or disposable kitchencloths make suitable alternatives.

Nage From the French verb nager,toswim. A light clear 'broth' or court-bouil-lon made with fish or vegetables.At theAubergine, we makeVegetable Nage eachday and use it in conjunction with meatand fish stocks to lighten them withoutdiluting the flavour. It is also a good all-purpose stock and very simple to make.

Noppe To coat food rhinJy and evenlywith a sauce using a tabiespoon.The correcttechnique is important! The sauce shouldflow from the side of the spoon, not the tip,so that it gLides evenly over the food.

Pov6 Literally, a slab, this is used todescribe food cut into a neat shape,usually a square or rectangle, e.g. fish orchocolate cake.

Non-stick baking parchment Oven-proof silicone-coated material usedto prevent food and mixtures fromsticking during baking. Sold underseveral brand names including llake-O-Glide. Re-usable and durable, andgreat for home-dried fruits, as wellas meringues and tuiles.

Reduce To boil a liquid in an uncoveredpan. As the liquid evaporates, the flavourbecomes more concentrated.

Refresh To plunge just boiledvegetables into ice-cold water for about1-2 rninutes to stop cooking andpreserve the colour, flavour and texture.After draining, the vegetables are keptchilled and covered ready for reheatingand serving.

Roast To cook food exposed to openfire or in the oven. In restaurant kitchensthe term is also used to describe cookingin a hot. lighrly-oiled Frying pan. srarringon top of the stove, then sometrmesfinishing in a hot oven.

Quenelle Food shaped into an ovalusing 2 spoons.We shape rce-cream,whippcd cream and even rice puddinginto decorative quenelles to make anexcellent garnish.

Saut6 To fry food quickly in a sma1lamount of hot oi1. From the Frenchword sauter, to jump, which the foodappears to do when rhe frying pan irshaken.

Sweat To fry food, generally vegetables.very gently in a covered pan. usingonly a small amount of oil so that beadsofsteam fa1l back onto the food tobaste and moisten it during thecooking process.

Tian A mould of fine1y chopped freshvegetables.

Turned Vegetables shaped into neatbarrel shapes using a sma1l paring knife.

pasion for flavor

Documents

stocks r

homemade stock

light stocks

whenthe stock cools

good stocks

brown stocks

sublime sauces

ait yv stocks