paint & decorating - nrha · low-emissivity interior paint can lower ... latex and oil-based...
TRANSCRIPT
CHAPTER THIRTEEN:
• PAINTS
• AEROSOLS
• WOOD FINISHES
• INTERIOR DECOR
• PAINT SUNDRIES
• HOUSEHOLD ADHESIVES
• REPAIR/PATCHING TOOLS & MATERIALS
• CAULKS AND SEALANTS
• GLAZING MATERIALS
• LADDERS
PAINT &Decorating
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P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
2
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
■ Paint should be viewed as a project starter,since the consumer rarely needs just a can ofpaint to complete their project. A goodsalesperson should always try to build on abasic paint sale by asking the customerabout the surface they intend to paint on,which helps them suggest the right paintand applicator. And since poor surface preparation leads to dissatisfied customers,make sure employees are familiar with the ins and outs of proper surface preparationand stress these points to the customer.
Consumers often lack the information they need to complete an entire paint anddecorating project. Sometimes the vast array of choices can be confusing to con-sumers, who may find their options overwhelming when choosing a caulk, spraypaint or wood stain. The emergence of the Internet has led manufacturers to devel-op Web sites that can help educate customers before they head to a store. Still, manyconsumers expect their local retailer to have all the answers.
Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about decorating projects, butwhat they really want are products that make their work easier—both faster to com-plete and more satisfying to look at when completed. Make sure your employees areprepared to explain why certain products can bring inferior results when used on dif-ferent surfaces.
Decorative finishing has arrived as a strong growth category, as consumers havebecome interested in a wide range of projects such as faux finishing and stenciling.Many retailers have responded to consumer demand by going beyond just having awell-stocked inventory—hosting project clinics, designing attractive vignettes and dis-plays, having colour-matching computers on the salesfloor or hiring design consult-ants. Along with personal selling skills, having the right knowledge about productsand their capabilities is instrumental to ensuring sales of paint, coatings, applicatorsand other decorative items.
Retailers should educate themselves to answer questions about reformulated prod-ucts. For example, some reformulated oil-based products require more applicationsand take longer to dry. Be sure that you and your staff take time to familiarize your-selves with the products you carry and the regulations in your area. Request and readmanufacturer literature and product labels.
PAINT &Decorating
PAINTSPaint is comprised of three components:
the binder, the pigment (color) and the liq-
uid. The best paints contain a higher volume
of solid material (binder and pigment) than
ordinary paints do.
The binder is the most important factor in
paint’s durability. The type and amount of
binder affect several aspects of the product’s
quality, such as stain resistance, crack resist-
ance, adhesion and gloss.
Pigment is comprised of the finely ground
particles that are dispersed in the paint. The
most common prime pigment is titanium
dioxide (TiO2), which is used in both oil-
based and latex paints. Meanwhile, extender
pigments provide bulk, and they enhance
qualities such as stain and chalk resistance;
better paints have a lower ratio of extender
pigment to binder.
The paint’s liquid is either water (in latex
paints) or solvent (in oil-based).
Additives are also used in paint to
enhance performance, application, appear-
ance or protection. Mildewcide is one addi-
tive used in exterior paints, while preserva-
tives prevent spoilage during storage.
Latex PaintsLatex paints are easily applied. Latex
paint films on exterior wood also allow
moisture to evaporate through the film—a
quality that will help reduce blistering. In
addition to being thinnable with water,
the advantages of latex paints (compared
to oil-based) are:
o less odour
o water cleanup
o non-flammability
o faster drying times (one to three hours)
o ease of touch-ups
o ease of application, even on damp surfaces
o better gloss and less fading on exterior
surfaces
o no yellowing on interior surfaces
o greater flexibility
o a lesser likelihood of cracking and peeling.
Top-quality latex paints tend to have
binder that is 100 percent acrylic, which
gives them excellent durability on diverse
surface styles, including masonry and alu-
minum. They also adhere better, making
them less likely to flake.
The disadvantages, especially of some
lower-quality products, are poorer adhesion
to badly weathered or chalking surfaces and,
in some cases, less effective hiding qualities.
Oil-Based PaintsOil-based paints consist of a pigment that
exists within a substance made of resins and
thinners. When thinners evaporate, the resins
form a hard coating and the pigment pro-
vides the color. The contents of oil-based
paints make them harder to apply, although
this same characteristic can also give them a
heavier coverage on the first coat.
The best qualities of oil-based paints are
their effective penetration of the surface and
excellent adhesion. And oil-based paints have
advantages over latex paints in a couple of
specific circumstances: they adhere better to
chalky surfaces and they provide better results
for anyone repainting a surface that already
has four layers or more of oil-based paint.
If a consumer does not want to invest in a
high-end latex paint, he or she can be
advised that an oil-based paint may provide
better flow and leveling than a lower-end
latex paint, as well as smoother finish after
drying with fewer brush or roller marks.
However, oil-based paints have certain dis-
advantages, particularly the odour and the
longer drying time (8 to 24 hours). Solvents,
thinners or turpentine are also necessary for
cleanup, and oil-based paints cannot be
applied to moist surfaces.
Interior Paints and EnamelsInterior finish paints are sold in both
water-based (latex) and oil-based (alkyd) for-
mulations. Latex paints are the most com-
mon sold for interior projects. Interior paints
are available in different gloss levels such as
flat, satin, eggshell, semi-gloss and high-
gloss, although there are no industry stan-
dards for these terms.
High-gloss enamels provide a tough,
washable finish for areas that endure a lot of
traffic or wear and for rooms that require
resistance to moisture, dirt and grease—such
as the bathroom and kitchen.
Flat paints leave a duller (or “matte”) finish
without shine. Flat paints are usually applied
to ceilings and irregular wall surfaces, except
in kitchens and baths where semi-gloss or
gloss paints can better withstand the frequent
washings required in these two rooms. Flat
paints usually have either an alkyd base that
thins with turpentine or mineral spirits or a
latex base that thins with water.
Alkyd flat paints may hide better with
one coat than latex flats do, but brushes
and other tools must be washed with tur-
pentine or a similar solvent. Latex flats
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
3
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
RECOMMENDING THE PROPER PAINT
OIL-BASED EXTERIOR PAINTS—Primer is needed on new wood and new hardboard (includ-ing pre-primed) for oil-based exterior paints. Two- or three-day wait recommended before anyoil-based paint is applied after rain. They are not recommended for application over masonry.Requires 12 to 48 hours to dry, depending on local conditions. Clean brushes and tools withturpentine.
LATEX EXTERIOR PAINTS—Need alkyd or good latex primers on new wood. Have a man-made latex binder rather than naturally occurring oils, but even most exterior oil-based prod-ucts contain a man-made binder. There are very few 100 percent oil paints left today. They areresistant to moisture and dry to touch in 30 minutes (under normal conditions). Brushes androllers wash in water.
VINYL-BASED EXTERIOR PAINTS—Need latex primer on new surfaces. Should be applied inheavy layers. Takes four to 12 hours to dry. Brushes and rollers wash in water.
INTERIOR PAINTS—Latex paints are water-based; alkyd paint, oil-based. Water-based paintsdry faster than oil, and, as a rule, do not give off “painty” odors common to oil. Quality alkydpaints form a tough non-porous surface that makes them conducive to washing. Latex is easierto use because cleanup is done with water.
EPOXY COATINGS—Require undercoat and surface preparation. Go on like paint, but looklike porcelain after they dry. Used on ceramic tile, walls, bowls and appliances. Will not stick ifapplied over ordinary paint. Offers the toughest finish available.
spread easily, especially on porous sur-
faces, and seldom require a primer. Tools
can be cleaned with water.
Satin and eggshell finishes are typically
recommended for most walls. Although low
in sheen, they are easier to clean than flat
paints due to their higher binder content.
Semi-gloss paints are recommended for
windows, doors, wood trim and other
woodwork; these surfaces get more wear,
fingerprints and soil than walls. Because
glossier enamels wash more readily, they
are more desirable. Semi-gloss latex paints
serve well as finishes for wood trim areas.
They, too, can be cleaned with water.
Enamels and gloss paints tend to show
brush and roller marks, so preparation of
interior surfaces is vital to good end
results—as is careful application by the
painter. Surfaces must be washed thor-
oughly and rinsed with clear water and
then completely dried before repainting.
Cracks and holes must be repaired, and
patched areas must be spot-primed.
If surfaces are badly soiled, a trisodium
phosphate (TSP) cleaner may be necessary.
However, phosphates are a recognized pol-
lutant. TSP is more prone to deposit crys-
tals that impair adhesion than some other
products are. When repainting glossy sur-
faces, sufficient cleaning materials must be
used to dull surfaces, or they should be
lightly sanded. (An alternative to sanding
is a liquid cleaning/dulling solvent).
High-gloss surfaces typically do not pro-
vide good adhesion for new coats of paint;
deglossers may be necessary.
Also be sure that consumers know not
to paint over wallpaper. Once painted,
wallpaper is extremely difficult to remove.
Low-emissivity interior paint can lower
heating and cooling costs. It acts like a
premium interior latex paint, but contains
low-E particles that reflect radiant energy
to keep rooms feeling warmer in winter
and cooler in summer. It operates in prin-
ciple like low-E glass windows.
■ EXTERIOR PAINTSHouse Paints
Latex and oil-based house paints are for-
mulated to withstand wear and exposure
to severe weather conditions. Many manu-
facturers offer specific formulations for
regional climates.
For good adhesion, surface preparation is
critical. Consumers should scrape as much old
paint as possible from the surface and then
sand to feather the edges of scraped areas. The
surface then should be washed with a strong
detergent solution. For more information, see
(Removing Old Paint & Varnish).Latex exterior paint is available with
polyurethane added, so it can be applied
over dirty or chalky surfaces without scrub-
bing or sanding.
Major problems associated with house
paints are generally due to:
o failure to follow manufacturer’s directions
o excessive moisture
o painting wet surfaces
o painting during inclement weather
o failure to use proper primer coat
o failure to clean the surface completely.
Any of these conditions can cause blistering,
peeling, early fading or similar problems. For
more information, see (CorrectingCommon Paint Problems).
Trim PaintsTrim paints are chosen to contrast with
house colour. They dry quickly to a hard fin-
ish; they are primarily for use on window
frames, shutters and railings.
They are not recommended for large
surfaces.
Flat finishes, which mark easily, should
not be used on doors, door frames or other
areas that are exposed to wear. Satin or gloss
paints are recommended for these areas.
Masonry PaintsMasonry surfaces include stucco, concrete,
brick, cement, etc. Most masonry paints are
acrylic latex-based. Oil-based paint is not rec-
ommended for masonry because of the resid-
ual alkalinity in the masonry.
Most latex-based masonry paints require a
special pre-treatment or bonding primer to tie
down old chalk and dust before application.
Rough surfaces should first receive a
coat of block-filler. Acrylic elastomeric
coatings bridge cracks and pinholes to pro-
vide the best waterproofing.
Powdered cement paints, which have a
shorter exterior life than latex coatings,
must be mixed with water. They can be
applied only over a porous masonry surface
such as brick, stucco or concrete, or over
surfaces that have been previously coated
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
HOW TO ESTIMATE FOR HOUSE AND INTERIOR PAINTS
DISTANCE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGEAROUND HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT
HOUSE IN FT. 12’ 15’ 18’ 21’ 24’
60 feet 5.7 L 7.6 L 8.5 L 9.5 L 11.4 L
92 8.5 10.4 13.3 15.1 17.0
124 11.4 14.2 17.0 19.9 22.7
140 13.3 16.1 18.9 22.7 26.5
172 16.1 19.9 22.7 27.5 32.2
DISTANCE PAINT FINISHIN FEET CEILING CEILING CEILING CEILING FOR FOR
AROUND ROOM 8’ 8-1/2’ 9’ 9-1/2’ CEILING FLOORS
30 feet 2.4 L 2.4 L 2.9 L 3.0 L 0.5 L 0.5 L
40 3.3 3.4 3.6 3.8 1.0 1.0
50 3.8 4.1 4.4 4.7 1.4 1.0
60 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.2 1.9 1.4
70 5.2 5.5 5.8 6.2 2.8 1.9
80 5.7 6.2 6..7 7.1 3.8 2.4
CHART COURTESY OF HYDE TOOLS AND DUTCH BOY PAINTS.
with this same kind of paint. For proper
adhesion, the old surface must be wetted
down thoroughly and the paint applied to
the damp surface.
Masonry paint can be waterproof as well
as decorative. For best colour retention,
coat with a good acrylic latex paint 30
days after application of waterproof
masonry paint.
Gutter Paints Latex paints adhere better to galvanized
steel and aluminum gutters. Oil-based
works better on tin gutters.
Galvanized gutters require priming both
inside and out. Pickling them with a 5 per-
cent muriatic acid solution is recommend-
ed. They may also be cleaned with a coarse
cloth that has been dampened with paint
thinner—or they can be left unpainted for
three to six months to allow weather etch-
ings for better adhesion.
Oil-based paints should never be applied
directly to unpainted galvanized metal.
They will eventually peel off. A galvanized
metal primer must be applied first. Acrylic
latex paint can be applied to unpainted
galvanized gutters as long as they have
been cleaned thoroughly.
Shingle PaintsShingle paints are used primarily to pro-
vide surface protection for wood shingles.
These paints are low in pigment and leave
only a light colour on the surface.
In some instances, shingle paints may
be applied without a primer. Where the
surface is badly weathered, recommenda-
tions may call for a companion primer,
undercoater or two finish coats. Check
manufacturers’ literature for recommenda-
tions with specific products.
Floor PaintsFloor paints (or “deck enamels”) are
designed for surfaces that will be exposed
to foot traffic and other wear and tear
common on household floors. Ordinary
high-gloss enamel is not suitable.
Floor enamels are formulated to with-
stand such weather and wear on wood and
concrete. They come in both oil-based and
latex formulas.
Since oil-based paints will not adhere to
damp surfaces, they are not recommended
for many concrete surfaces, especially in
moisture-prone areas like basements and
patios. Poor adhesion, peeling and lifting
are common effects of concrete flooring
on oil-based paint.
Conventional floor paints also work
poorly on garage floors. Hot car tires make
the floor paint stick to the tires and lift off
the floor. Concrete floors that have been
penetrated by oils, gasoline, etc., are virtu-
ally impossible to paint anyway because
cleaning these surfaces well enough to
make paint adhere is very difficult.
However, an extra advantage of latex floor
paints is that resilient floor tile can be laid
without removing the old paint. This is not
possible with other floor paints.
■ SPECIAL-PURPOSE PAINTSAcoustical Ceiling Paint
Special acoustical ceiling paint forms a
porous film that will not reduce the noise-
reducing properties of acoustical tile. It can
be applied with a brush, roller or sprayer.
Luminous PaintLuminous paint is designed to glow in
complete darkness for up to 12 hours after
exposure to direct sunlight. It is used on
wall plates, house numbers, stair edges, fuse
boxes and other spots around the house.
Glow-in-the-dark spray paint sticks to
almost any surface, from car keys and bicy-
cles to tools and toys. It is green and easily
applied in a one-step application. Exposure
to light recharges painted surface.
Aluminum PaintHigh-quality aluminum paint is alu-
minum blended with a resin base. It
works equally well on almost any surface
and may be brushed or sprayed. Colours
become more intense with age.
Aluminum paint can be used on all
interior and exterior metal or wood sur-
faces, or applied to metal flashing, gut-
ters, downspouts, tools, tool sheds, patio
furniture, pipes, mailboxes, fences, etc.
Do not apply aluminum paint during
freezing temperatures; paint should dry at
least overnight before recoating.
Texture PaintTexture paint seals most minor imper-
fections in walls and ceilings and leaves a
decorator finish, although larger holes
and cracks must be filled.
Texture paint is available as a liquid base
with tinting colours or as a powder in several
colours. The paints also come in several con-
sistencies, ranging from smooth formulas to
larger texture particles in sandy textures—
including even coarse stucco finishes, which
create the deepest texture.
If desired, rollers, putty knives, trowels
and other applicators create a variety of
patterns or designs, such as swirls and
deep texture finishes. After these finishes
have been applied and allowed to dry, the
surfaces can be painted any colour. Texture
paint also may be tinted before application.
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
DO’S AND DON’TS OF INTERIOR PAINTING
DO
Wash all grease and dirt off walls andwoodwork.
Patch cracks in walls and ceilingsbefore painting.
Seal all new surfaces with a primer.
Scrape off all loose paint and sand thesurface to a smooth finish.
Stir paint thoroughly before any appli-cations.
Allow new plaster to dry before painting.
Properly ventilate area to be painted.
DON’T
Don’t expect good results on dirty sur-faces.
Don’t paint over a damp surface withoilbase paints.
Don’t apply the second coat of paintuntil the first coat has dried properly.
Don’t sand woodwork across the grain.
Don’t change cans of paint in the mid-dle of a wall area.
Don’t add thinner to the productunless directions call for it.
LacquersLacquers are the fastest-drying finishes. In
fact, consumers should be advised to work
fast with lacquers. Also suggest a 50/50 mix-
ture of lacquer and lacquer thinner (each
preferably made by the same manufacturer).
Lacquers should be applied only to new
wood or over previously lacquered surfaces.
They cannot be used over old paint or var-
nish; the solvents will lift old finishes.
Lacquers should be handled with extreme
caution. Fumes are noxious—especially dan-
gerous to the user in a closed room. In addi-
tion, fire and explosion hazards are much
greater than with ordinary paints and var-
nishes.
Lacquers are available in clear or colours.
They are usually difficult to apply by brush.
However, some manufacturers do offer spe-
cially formulated versions that apply more
easily with a brush.
Lacquer thinners are required to clean
tools.
Epoxy FinishesEpoxy finishes are primarily for bare or
previously finished wood floors. They also
eliminate “dusting” when applied to con-
crete floors. They penetrate rapidly and can
be applied with a brush or mop.
An epoxy finish adheres to most surfaces
and is especially good for doors, cabinets,
trim and furniture—any interior wood sur-
face where a clear-gloss, easy-to-clean finish
is desired. It resists detergent, oil and alkali,
but may lose gloss and chalk under expo-
sure to sun and weather.
Epoxy finishes are formulated in one- or
two-part systems. Two-part epoxies come in
kits containing equal size cans and contents
are mixed; they are more chemical- and
abrasion-resistant than one-component
epoxies.
Paint AdditivesConditioners can be added to either oil-
based or latex paints for a variety of rea-
sons—to keep edges wet longer, to pre-
vent lapping, to allow the paint to cover
better or to lessen drag on the paint appli-
cator. Conditioners also lessen paint clog-
ging in spraying systems. Some additives
are designed to give latex some of the bet-
ter qualities of oil-based paints.
Odor killer is a new additive that is particu-
larly useful for oil-based paints. It is added on
a per-quart basis and is relatively inexpensive.
One new paint additive uses new technolo-
gy to transform paintable areas into magnetic
surfaces. Magnetic paint, which can be used
with any type or colour of latex, oil-based,
acrylic or enamel paint, has liquid metal
properties that will attract magnets. Users
can then hang pictures, signs, artwork or any
magnetic items they choose. It can also be
used as a primer to turn a wall into a magnet-
ic chalkboard. Two coats are recommended
for best results.
Insecticides can be added to paint, but
they should be added for outdoor use only.
Insecticide is poured into the paint, and the
paint is then applied as usual. Insects sus-
ceptible to the poison include spiders, ants,
silverfish, ticks, roaches and earwigs.
Some paint manufacturers warn that
additives may not live up to their claims.
They may even have adverse effects, such
as increasing mildew growth. They can
also void paint warranties, so check man-
ufacturer policies and literature.
PrimersPriming the surface before applying a top-
coat ensures better and longer-lasting results.
Primers and stain-killing primer-sealers are
designed to seal porous surfaces, block out
stains, promote adhesion of the topcoat and
hide unwanted colours.
Primers improve adhesion, prevent
stains on the surface from bleeding
through the finish paint and seal porous
surfaces. Sealing the surface helps save on
paint and prevents paint resins from soak-
ing unevenly into the substrate.
Ferrous metal surfaces should be primed
with two coats of primer. Using an acrylic
latex or oil-based, corrosion-resistant primer
will reduce the likelihood of the rust reap-
pearing. The primer should be applied
immediately after cleaning the surface and
letting it dry. A stain-blocking primer
should be applied to new galvanized metal
before applying an oil-based topcoat.
Some customers may request that you
tint the primer to match the tint of their
paint. This often reduces the need for a
second coat of paint, since the color in
the first coat is less likely to be diluted by
the primer.
Acrylic block fillers should be used to
prime concrete block.
Stain-killing primer-sealers are oil-
based, water-based or shellac-based. They
prime virtually anything that needs paint-
ing, including metal, masonry, wood, dry-
wall and previously painted surfaces. They
are typically white-pigmented and can be
tinted to match the color of the topcoat
to reduce the amount of finish paint
needed for the job.
Shellac-based primer-sealers are ideal
for interior woodwork and spot-priming
knots on exterior wood. They are best for
sealing off troublesome stains from water
leaks, mildew and fire damage, and seal
off odors from smoke and pets. They
clean up with alcohol or a 1:3 solution of
household ammonia in water.
Water-based primer-sealers bind mod-
erately chalky surfaces and offer good
adhesion to glossy surfaces and metals.
They are almost odorless and clean up
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
6
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
HOW TO HANDLE LEAD-BASED PAINT
Customers who mention that they currently have lead-based paint in their homes should bestrongly warned not to remove it themselves before they proceed with their repainting orremodeling projects. Such activity can release dust or chips from lead paint into the air—stirringa dangerous substance into the atmosphere of the home.
Exposure can cause irreversible damage to children and adults alike—such as nervous-systemdamage, slowed growth and other problems in children and reproductive problems, mentaldifficulties and nerve disorders in adults.
If your customers are concerned, recommend that they contact their local office of HealthCanada.
with soap and water.
Oil-based primer-sealers can be used on
both interior and exterior surfaces. They
work well for nicotine stains and cedar
bleed. They give off a low odor and clean
up with mineral spirits (paint thinner).
AEROSOLS
Aerosol consists of propellant and the
product itself, which can be in the form
of a liquid, foam or semi-solid. Valve
modifications have improved the spray
pattern of aerosol paints; some permit
spraying in any position, even upside
down to touch up water spots on ceilings.
There are three kinds of propellants: hydro-
carbons (liquid propellants), carbon dioxide (a
compressed gas) and dimethyl ether.
Hydrocarbons are effective as propel-
lants because they turn to vapour as the
product is used and then fill the void left
by the decrease in product.
Carbon dioxide does not maintain a con-
stant pressure, so it is best recommended
where a coarse, wet spray is needed and
where the distance to be sprayed is short.
Inhalation of substantial amounts of
the propellant gases may be harmful to
health. Caution customers that aerosols
are effective and safe—as long as the
product is used in well-ventilated areas.
For most aerosols, instructions on the can
make usage easy, but paint is different
because kinds and qualities vary greatly.
The first place to evaluate quality in
aerosol paints is on the can—by noting
the percentage of paint to propellant. The
fill ratio used by manufacturers will vary.
So will the kinds of propellant.
The most common propellant is a light-
weight hydrocarbon. A common fill ratio
for a hydrocarbon is about 77 percent/23
percent. That means a 300 g can would
contain 230 g of paint by weight and only
70 g of propellant.
The formulation of the paint itself can
vary. Some formulas cover better; others
last longer; some provide a brighter gloss.
Aside from those differences, the type of
finish and length of wear are used to classi-
fy paints used in aerosols. Generic terms
such as “enamel” and “lacquer” are used,
but they also encompass a variety of film-
forming resins with differing characteristics.
Read labels and manufacturers’ literature for
a description of actual features.
Primers, stainless steel coatings, faux
finishes, anti-slip sprays, rust preventers
and graffiti removers all come in aerosol
form. A combination stain and varnish is
also available in an aerosol spray,
although it is tricky to apply evenly.
Spray-on latex paint is available that is
safe to use indoors or outdoors, resists
scratches and cleans up easily with soap and
water. It can be applied to wood, metal,
wicker, clay, plaster and plastic materials.
There are also three different spray-on
glass finishes. The transparent paint can
be used to add colour to glass making it
look like stained glass. The semi-transpar-
ent paint gives a frosted glass look. The
reflective finish can be used to create mir-
rored finishes.
Numerous cities and a handful of states
have enacted legislation to regulate
aerosol spray paint, either prohibiting
sales to minors or requiring spray paints
to be locked up. Make sure you are famil-
iar with any requirements in your area.
WOOD FINISHES
Wood Sealer/Wood ConditionerWood sealer is used on softwoods to help
tame wild grain patterns and to even up
stain absorbency. The sealer penetrates the
wood, which allows a more even colour
appearance and grain pattern.
Wood StainsThere are two major types of wood
stains: semi-transparent and solid-colour
(opaque). Semi-transparent stains can be
applied over bare wood or wood previous-
ly coated by a semi-transparent stain (but
not sealed). Solid-colour stains can be
applied over bare wood and previously
stained surfaces—and even over painted
surfaces that are in sound condition.
The essential difference between the
two types is: Semi-transparent stains
impart colour, but the texture and the
natural grain of the wood continues to
show through; while on solid-colour
stains, the texture still shows through, but
not the grain itself.
Exterior stains are used primarily on
wood siding and shingles, decks, outdoor
structures and furniture. They are avail-
able in latex and oil-based formulas. Oil-
based stains penetrate the wood, and they
erode with weathering. Latex stains do
not typically fade as rapidly. When stain-
ing exterior wood decks, semi-transparent
oil-based stains are generally a better
choice. Solid-colour stains are better for
decks with badly weathered wood.
Because of their excellent adhesion proper-
ties, latex stains are often recommended for
surfaces that were previously stained or paint-
ed with oil-based products. Latex is also rec-
ommended for woods such as cedar, redwood
and cypress—those that have natural resist-
ance to rotting. However, putting a light-
coloured stain on these woods can result in
brown discolouration. Latex stains also can
withstand less abuse than their oil-based
counterparts.
If the deck is made of pressure-treated
wood, it should be stained two to five
months after installation. Many home-
owners believe—wrongly—that pressure-
treated wood is automatically protected
from the elements. It is protected from
insects, but it remains vulnerable to sun
and moisture, which can cause splitting,
drying, cracking and graying.
There are water-repellent preservative
stains, which contain a fungicide and
water repellent. They protect against
decay and mildew, as well as warping,
splitting, cracking and general deteriora-
tion. Water-repellent stains can be oil- or
latex-based stains in transparent and
semi-transparent finishes.
Clear coatings come in both water-
based and oil-based formulations, for inte-
rior and exterior use. They are applied on
bare or stained surfaces such as doors,
windows, trim and furniture.
Timber oil is a wood finish designed to
penetrate exotic hardwoods such as
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
7
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
mahogany and teak. This specialty wood fin-
ish helps preserve the hardwood and main-
tain its natural appearance. Available in sever-
al shades, timber oil is a combination of tung
oil, linseed oil and long-oil alkyds. In general,
teak should be treated with oil-based formu-
las. Since teak is denser than many other
common woods, wood protector should be
applied with a brush or by rubbing it in with
a cotton cloth.
Interior stains, used for furniture and
woodwork, come in either pigmented or
dye categories. Both can have oil, synthet-
ic or water bases. Pigmented stains colour
the wood with the same type of pigments
used in paint. They range in colour from
almost clear to semi-transparent. They are
easy to apply—usually brushed on or
wiped on with a rag, then wiped off
enough to control the depth of the stain.
They leave no brush or lap marks if
applied properly. Dye stains are more dif-
ficult to use and are more frequently used
by professionals. Most dye stains come in
powders—to be mixed in a solvent—and
most are highly flammable. D-i-yers most
often use pre-mixed dyes.
Dye stains offer deeper penetration of
wood surfaces and less grain hiding.
However, they also fade more quickly
than pigmented stains and require more
effort to prepare the wood. Water-based
dyes tend to raise the grain on many
woods because the water penetrates the
wood and raises the tiny fibers. Wood
should be wetted first, then sanded down
before applying water-based dyes. Also
keep in mind that water-based stains dry
quickly, making it difficult to get an even
coat on a large surface.
Non-grain-raising (NGR) dyes are dis-
solved in a NGR solvent. They dry faster
than water-based counterparts, so applica-
tion must be faster to avoid lap marks.
Coloured oil finishes, such as Danish
oil, tung oil or Swedish oil, provide color-
ing and protection in one step. However,
oil finishes do not stand up to alcohol or
water the way polyurethanes do, so they
are not recommended for high-traffic,
abuse-prone applications.
But oils make nice, low-luster finishes
for furniture and other fine pieces.
Waxing can provide water resistance with
these finishes.
Stains may or may not protect the wood;
check manufacturers’ labels. An oil or
polyurethane finish can be mixed with the
stain, so the do-it-yourselfer can complete the
staining and finishing job in one step.
VarnishesVarnish is a blend of oils and resins
that coat the surface of wood and gives a
transparent, protective coating, allowing
the beauty of the wood to show through.
It can leave a gloss, semi-gloss or satin
finish, depending on its formulation.
All varnishes must be applied with a
clean brush to a clean, dust-free surface in
a dirt-free area.
Varnishes fall into four groups, divided
by their base: alkyd, polyurethane, latexor phenolic. Varnishes are typically mixed
with a tung oil or linseed oil.
Phenolic varnishes of modified pheno-
lic oils deliver the best durability, espe-
cially in exterior uses. They absorb ultra-
violet light and neutralize oxidation.
However, they also tend to yellow faster
than other varnishes.
Alkyd varnishes offer flexibility and
hardness in both interior and exterior
uses, but in exterior use they oxidize more
quickly. However, they do not yellow as
much as phenolics.
Polyurethanes are not generally recom-
mended for outdoor use. They yellow and
crack when exposed to ultraviolet light—
unless ultraviolet light absorbers are
added. There are newer exterior
polyurethanes, but manufacturers’ specifi-
cations should be checked first for recom-
mended applications. Polyurethanes are
recommended for interior use on floors
because of their excellent protection.
Phenolic or polyurethane stains are bet-
ter in interior applications for water-
resistance and hard use, but customers
may object to the plastic appearance they
produce. Alkyds offer a more natural-look-
ing gloss for furniture and indoor archi-
tectural trim and doors.
Some varnishes offer the advantages of oil-
based coatings and the cleanup convenience
of latex. The acrylic coatings take from 30 to
90 minutes to dry and do not yellow the
wood. Some acrylic-based varnishes are even
durable enough for use on floors; check man-
ufacturers’ recommendations. For more infor-
mation, see (Removing Old Paint &Varnish).
ShellacShellac provides a fast, hard-drying,
durable finish for furniture, woodwork,
hardwood floors and other wood-finishing
applications. It also functions as a sealer
and stain-killer on drywall, cured plaster
and new wood. Shellac is widely compati-
ble with other coatings, and it can be
applied over old shellac, varnish or lac-
quer finishes that are adhering well.
Most shellac is sold in a consistency rec-
ommended for most uses. This consistency
can be thinned for applications such as
wood sealer before staining by thinning 1 L
of shellac with 1.5 L of alcohol.
For applications where water spotting
may be a problem, shellacked surfaces can
be protected with paste wax or varnish.
Shellac may be applied with a brush,
foam brush or from a can. Advise cus-
tomers when brushing to flow on the
shellac from a full brush—with minimum
brushing—and not to re-brush areas, since
the alcohol-based solvent of shellac dries
quickly. Shellac offers convenient cleanup
in ammonia and warm water.
Wood Preservatives/Waterproofers
All wood preservatives must contain a
Health Canada’s Pest Management
Regulatory Agency (PMRA) registered fun-
gicide to classify as wood preservatives.
Pressure-treated wood, with lifetime war-
ranties, does not require a brush-on pre-
servative coating. Brush-on preservatives
are used for untreated wood and should
be reapplied periodically.
Wood preservatives by themselves pro-
vide no protection against moisture or
water. Water repellency must be formulat-
ed into the product. Mildewcides are also
frequently formulated into preservatives.
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
8
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
Water-borne, water-repellent preserva-
tives for wood offer lower environmental
hazards and convenient water cleanup.
They provide an alternative to conven-
tional solvent-based, water-repellent
preservatives while retaining effectiveness,
rapid drying qualities and excellent
paintability. Preservatives should be reap-
plied periodically.
A water repellent helps minimize water
damage on pressure-treated and untreated
wood. Some water repellents also contain a
mildewcide to help control mold and mildew
growth. It is best to use water repellent that is
formulated for immediate application to pres-
sure-treated wood to avoid premature crack-
ing, splitting, splintering and warping.
Periodic re-applications help prevent water
damage as wood ages.
Wood toners are water repellents that
add colour to highlight wood grain.
Although toners are not to be used as if
they are stains, adding colour to a water
repellent gives wood the benefit of ultra-
violet light protection. Most toners on the
market are designed for use on pressure-
treated wood. Some repellents contain
ingredients that cause water to bead.
Specialty waterproofers include a multi-
surface formula that can be used on brick
and concrete, an aerosol version that
works well for small exterior projects, a
fence protector, a leather and fabric pro-
tector and a sport waterproofer specially
designed for use on outdoor fabric and
sporting equipment.
INTERIOR DECOR
WallcoveringsThe application of wallcovering can be
done well by do-it-yourselfers. Technical
advancements make hanging wallpaper a rela-
tively easy redecorating job. Two factors are
important when selecting wallpaper: pattern
and roll size. Wallpaper comes in border paper
(for decorative accents) and sidewall paper
(large rolls to cover whole walls). For more
information, see (Hanging Wallpaper).Wallcoverings come in either pre-pasted,
self-adhesive or dryback form. Most wallpaper
is pre-pasted, which means it has been coated
with paste by the manufacturer. Pre-pasted
wallpaper must be dipped in water for several
minutes and applied wet to make the paste
stick. There are specially formulated pastes for
pre-pasted wallpaper. These pastes eliminate
the need for the water tray used to soak the
pre-pasted paper and shorten the time needed
for application. Another feature of these pastes
is it makes the paper easier to remove.
With self-adhesive wallpaper, the user sim-
ply peels off the backing and sticks it on the
wall. Although these coverings adhere almost
immediately, there is time to adjust them
before the adhesive hardens. A “light tack”
adhesive permits numerous repositionings
during the 30 minutes after application
required for the bonding to become perma-
nent; the covering can be removed later, leav-
ing no residue.
Dryback wallpaper has no adhesion to it,
so wallpaper paste must be applied. Make
sure to follow manufacturer specifications
when selecting which wallpaper adhesive to
use with dryback wallcoverings.
Most wallcoverings come in rolls of 20-
1/2", 27", 36" or 54" widths; each contains
36 square feet of covering and will cover
approximately 30 square feet of wall or
ceiling surface. To calculate the amount of
paper needed, find the total square
footage of the area to be covered and
deduct one-half roll for every standard-
size door or window.
It’s also important to know the dye lotnumber of the wallpaper in case more is
needed later, since there may be a slight
difference in colour between dye lots.
Necessary tools include trimming knife,
plumb line and chalk, scraper, seam roller,
smoothing brush, paste brush and water
tray (for pre-pasted coverings). If the job
requires paste, check the kind of paper
before you sell the paste. Some coverings
require wheat paste, while others use liq-
uid vinyl adhesive or a vinyl paste.
As with painting, walls must be thor-
oughly cleaned before applying new cov-
ering—dirt, grease and grime washed off,
old paint scraped and washed down,
cracks filled and smoothed. It is also best
to remove old coverings first.
Depending on the kind of wall surface
involved and the kind of covering, other
preparations may be necessary. For instance,
walls should be washed with disinfectant
before applying vinyl, enameled walls should
be scrubbed with a trisodium phosphate
cleaner, and sizing or primer-sealer should be
applied to either wall or covering.
Many of these coverings are described
as “strippable” or “dry strippable,” which
means that the covering can be pulled off
years after application. “Peelable” wall-
coverings can be removed with soap and
hot water, but sometimes leave a thin
layer of paper on the wall.
Wallpaper strippers are available in liq-
uid and gel form. They contain agents
that penetrate the material and weaken
the bond, ideally allowing the wallcover-
ing to be removed in whole strips. Water-
impermeable wallcoverings—such as coat-
ed or painted wallpaper, foils, mylars and
some fabrics—should be perforated before
applying stripper. If wallpaper is particu-
larly difficult to remove, use a wallpaper
shaver, which features a razor-sharp
replaceable blade.
Window ShadesWindow shades are made of heavy paper,
treated fabric, fiberglass or vinyl. Vinyl shades
and the better-quality fabric shades are wash-
able with a damp sponge or cloth.
Some shades, particularly those made of
fabric, ensure privacy while allowing light
to filter through. Others, such as vinyl, shut
out light as well. These can also reduce
incoming hot or cold air and help cut
demand on air conditioning or heating.
On the other hand, some forms of win-
dow shading allow at least a partially
unobstructed view while still shutting out
the UV rays that damage furniture, partic-
ularly in the summer. Static-cling window
film, which is available in window-size
kits and in bulk rolls, sticks to the inner
surface of the window. It is easy both to
install—requiring only water and a
squeegee— and easy to peel off and store
for the next summer. This vinyl film
blocks up to 90 percent of UV rays.
In addition, roll-up, see-through tinted
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
9
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
shades have multi-layer polyester film
with a special invisible heat-reflecting
coating on the inner layers. A standard
spring-roll shade is available for smaller
windows. Heavy, close-weave window
screening is another possibility. Kits are
available for d-i-yers.
Size is important to consider when selling
window shades. Some have steel rollers that
adjust to the size of the windows; others are
pre-cut and packaged in standard sizes up to
6'; on still others customers can cut them to
the desired width at home.
If windows are not standard widths,
shades must be cut to size. Accessories
include mounting hardware and pulls.
Faux FinishesMost decorative interior painting
involves the application of one or more
colours in broken layers over a different-
coloured background, creating a mottled
or textured effect. Most of these tech-
niques begin with a base coat of solid-
coloured semi-gloss or satin paint, fol-
lowed by a thinner coat of paint called a
“glaze.” A versatile glaze can be made
using one part interior latex paint, one
part water and four parts artist’s glaze.
Sponging is a simple technique that begins
with application of a solid base colour of
paint. After the base coat dries, a glaze of
another colour is dabbed on with a slightly
dampened natural sea sponge, creating a mot-
tled look. More than one glaze colour can be
used, but each needs to dry before moving on
to the next; the use of quick-drying latex
paint can speed up the process. Some sponges
feature random patterns that can be used to
create a design that closely resembles pat-
terned wallpaper. One line of sponges comes
with a plastic handle that can be removed as
well as a smaller trim sponge for corners.
Ragging and rag rolling can achieve effects
similar to crushed velvet, parchment, chamois
leather, watered silk or brocade. As with
sponging, ragging begins with application of a
coat of paint in a solid colour and allowing it
to dry. A crumpled cloth is then used to add
glaze in another colour. To rag-roll, a cloth is
rolled into a sausage shape of varying tight-
ness, then lightly dipped into the glaze and
rolled gently across the base coat.
Ragging and rag-rolling results vary
according to the cloth material used.
Linen, lace and burlap are common choic-
es, but almost any material will do if it is
clean and free of lint.
For a slightly different effect, each of
these techniques can be done with a neg-ative method. This involves applying a
base coat, then a glaze coat. A sponge is
then used to remove some of the glaze
before it has a chance to dry, partially
exposing the colour of the base coat.
Colour washing is a water-based decora-
tive wall painting technique that is
applied in thin, transparent layers. It
enables a wide variety of colourful tex-
tured and faux effects including leather,
suede, marble, rustic or antique finishes.
Combing involves covering a wall with reg-
ular paint, applying a glaze and then running
a metal painting comb through the glaze.
Combing tends to darken the colour of the
wall and it can be done in any direction.
Cross-hatching is when the wall is combed
once straight down and once horizontally.
Another faux finishing method includes
dragging. This entails applying vertical
sections (about 20" wide) of glaze, then
immediately dragging a wide, organic-
bristle brush through the glaze in one
long stroke from top to bottom, holding
the bristles against the surface with the
handle directly toward yourself. This
method is suitable for walls or furniture
pieces with a flat finish.
There is also marbling, in which a base
layer of white or colour is dabbed on with a
damp sponge, and then a second glaze of a
different colour is applied the same way,
causing the two colours to “marble.” The two
colours can be mottled with the sponge or
crumpled plastic. Another glaze colour can be
dragged across the surface with an artist’s
brush to add a “veined” look. Marbling is
often done with fireplace mantles.
StencilingStenciling is often done in conjunction
with a faux finish for decorative effect. It
can be done on walls, furniture, fabrics or
just about any small item in need of a cre-
ative touch. Stencils come in a variety of
styles, themes and types. Ivy, floral and
garden themes are among the most popu-
lar, along with animal designs for chil-
dren’s rooms.
Stencils can be used for small borders
on up to large, full-wall murals. Patterns
can be single or multiple layers. They can
even be applied directly to wallpaper.
Parts of the stencil can be used as spot
motifs around doorways, windows, doors
or furniture.
Self-adhesive stencils can be pulled off
the wall and reused many times. They
adhere to just about any surface.
Stencils can also be enhanced to create an
embossed texture. Acrylic stencil paint
works for exterior applications with patio
furniture, doors and fences. Rub-on stencils
work well with wall tile in the bath or
kitchen. With rubber decorator stamps,
paint is applied to the stamp and then
pressed to the wall. Some stencils allow the
user to view their work as they progress—
paint cremes are designed so the colours
will not run or drip behind the pattern.
Stenciling kits contain everything need-
ed to complete the project, such as stencil
sheets, paint cremes, cutters, stamps,
brushes and pattern books.
Also available are multi-coloured litho-
graphs that provide the look of hand-
painted stencils without having to under-
go the time-consuming use of paint.
Simply position the stencil, rub and peel
back the design. A special seam roller cre-
ates a dry transfer and rubs the design
onto the surface. It can apply a perma-
nent, washable bond to many surfaces.
PAINT SUNDRIES
BrushesBrushes are highly efficient for painting all
areas and for all types of paint. A poor brush,
however, will result in a poor finish. To guide
customers toward a professional-quality job,
salespeople need to know what makes a qual-
ity brush and how to recommend the right
brush for the job.
A quality brush has a high percentage of
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
10
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
bristles with flagged (split) ends, which is
important for holding and spreading paint.
The better the flagging, the more paint a
brush will hold and the fewer the brush
marks left on the painted surface.
A quality brush also has filaments that vary
in length for smooth flow and application of
paint. Bristles on a brushes used for precision
painting, such as sash brushes, should be
“tipped.” They have pointed ends, allowing
more precise control of the paint.
Paintbrushes are available in a broad
range of sizes. Smaller brushes should be
used for smaller areas and detail work; larger
brushes have higher paint capacity for larg-
er areas. The five major components of a
paintbrush are handle, ferrule, spacer,epoxy and filament.
Wood is the traditional standard for pro-
fessional handles. Do-it-yourself quality
brushes have handles made of plastic,
which is popular because it resists water and
solvents and requires little care. The handle
is attached to the brush by nailing or crimp-
ing it to the ferrule.
Ferrules are made with either round or
square ends. Most smaller, thinner brushes
have ferrules with round ends; larger, thicker
brushes usually have ferrules with square
ends. Ferrules can be made of stainless steel,
rust-resistant steel, copper-coated steel, brass-
plated steel, nickel-plated steel or bright tin.
The filament is the most important part of
the brush that applies the paint. It can be
made of natural bristles or synthetic materi-
als. Today, because of the popularity of
water-based paints, which make China bris-
tle soften and flare, synthetic materials are
both necessary and widely used. Synthetic
filament is generally made of nylon or poly-
ester. It can be made in many cross-sectional
shapes and quality levels.
Bristle is the most popular natural fila-
ment, and the best quality comes from
mainland China. Bristle varies in length,
stiffness and thickness. Bristle has naturally
split ends, called “flags.” Flags help to hold
paint in the brush so it is released evenly
throughout the stroke instead of all at once
on the first contact point. The soft, natural
flags on bristle must be manufactured on
synthetic filament.
Bristle is not recommended for use in
water-based paints. Bristle is also not good to
use on rough surfaces, which can break the
flags and quickly wear down the brush. Bristle
brushes work well for oil-based and alkyd
paints, stains, varnishes, urethanes and shel-
lac. Their naturally soft tips leave fewer brush
marks in the coating than other brushes.
Nylon is also very durable, outwearing
China bristle five to one, so the tips last
well. Nylon cleans up easier than other fila-
ments. Because of its durability, nylon is
great to use on rough surfaces. Easy clean-
ability makes it the best material to use with
fast-drying paints like acrylics.
Because of their low price, polyester
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
11
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
PAINTBRUSH CONSTRUCTION
Square Trim
Chisel Trim
PAINTBRUSH GLOSSARY
ANGULAR—bristles are tipped. One endon one side of the brush is longer, givingworking end a slanted appearance.
BUTT ENDS—ends of bristle originallyembedded in hide of hog are ends thatgo into brush setting.
CHISELLED EDGE—working end of brushis shaped to resemble end of steel chiselon both sides of brush. Most quality var-nish brushes and a number of quality wallbrushes and sash tools have chiselededges on both sides.
FERRULE—wood-, metal- or leather-bound form into which bristle is set; alsoholds handle of brush.
FLAG ENDS—working end of each bristleand tapered filament is divided into finehairs called flag ends. Hold paint in brushand help spread it evenly.
HEELED UP—heel is section of brushwhere butt ends fit into ferrule. When thisbecomes clogged with paint, it is “heeledup” and will not work efficiently.
RESILIENCY—proper proportion of stiffand soft bristles or filaments.
SQUARE EDGE—working edge of brush isstraight. Large brushes usually have squareedges with natural bend of bristle inclin-ing toward center of brush.
TAPER—tapered polyester, tapered nylonand natural bristles are thick at butt end,thinner at flag end. Tapered brushes ofeach different material are made byblending various sizes of tapered poly-ester, nylon or natural bristle.
CARE SUGGESTIONS
BRUSHES
1. Clean brush immediately after use, before paint has a chance to harden. Use proper solventfor oil-base paint; for latex-base paints, clean with warm, soap or detergent water solution. Ifbrush does not clean thoroughly, clean in paint thinner and rewash in warm detergent solution.
2. Comb wet bristles with metal comb.
3. If brush is to be stored for long periods, return to pouch supplied with brush or wrap in foilor heavy paper, with bristles smooth and flat.
4. Always store flat or suspended from a nail or hook so that bristles are straight and the brushis not resting on bristles.
5. Do not allow any brush to stand on end in either paint or water.
6. Do not soak a brush in water; it will damage either the filament or the epoxy setting andcause the ferrule to rust.
ROLLERS AND PADS
1. Clean after every use, removing excess paint by rolling or pressing on a newspaper, thenwashing in proper solvent or water.
2. Dry and wrap to store.
brushes are popular with d-i-yers. Polyester
absorbs no moisture, so it retains its stiffness
better than any other brushing material.
Polyester also resists heat well, allowing it to
be used with all kinds of coatings in all types
of conditions. The drawbacks are it tends to
be stiffer so it does not have the proper
amount of flex, it leaves brush marks in the
coating, it cannot be precisely tipped and it
is not as durable or as easy to clean as nylon.
The most popular synthetic paintbrushes
combine the best qualities of nylon and
polyester together in one brush. Polyester is
used in shorter lengths to give the brush
resistance to heat and stiffness when used
with water-based paints; nylon is used in the
longer lengths for precise tipping and maxi-
mum durability. The newest blended brushes
combine China bristles with either nylon or
polyester. Nylon/polyester blends give out-
standing performance in all types of paint,
including latex, acrylics, alkyds and oil base.
The best filament is round and solid (not
hollow), because it lasts the longest and
cleans up easiest. The best synthetic filament
is made with a tapered shape, which gives
the brush a natural taper for precise cutting-
in. Because man-made filament does not
have natural flags, tipping processes were
developed to improve the spreading ability
of filament. There are several ways to process
bristle and filament. Because bristle has nat-
ural tipping, it is processed very minimally.
Synthetic filament, on the other hand, must
be processed to make it paint effectively.
Exploding the tips of filament “bursts”
them to make flags that carry paint and
spread it smoothly onto the surface. Bristle
has natural flags, so it is not exploded.
Another type of processing makes a sharp
point on the end of each filament; this
improves layoff and cutting-in abilities with
today’s thicker paints. Still other processes
smooth the body or length of the filament,
which may become roughened after tipping;
bristle is sometimes smoothed as well. This
improves cleanability.
There are two basic paintbrush construc-
tion types: square and chisel. Filaments in
brushes with square construction are level
across the bottom, which also makes them
level at the top of the brush. Chisel con-
struction results in a rounded shape at the
base of the brush and a triangular, chisel
shape at the top of the brush.
Brushes can also be compared by brush
trim. With square trim, the end of the brush
is trimmed flat or horizontal. With chisel
trim, the end of the brush is cut to a dome-
like shape, which increases taper and cut-
ting-in properties. For more information, see
(Making Painting Easier).
RollersThe major advantage of a paint roller is
the speed of application. The average d-i-yer
will do a quicker, smoother job with a roller.
Standard wall rollers, used in large open
areas, are 7" to 12" wide. Specialized rollers
can be any length from 2" to 18", depending
on the job to be done. Special rollers are
designed for painting on round surfaces or
into corners.
The best roller frames are made from
heavy-gauge wire, and they have end bear-
ings for smooth operation and a threaded
handle to accommodate extenders.
One critical element in any roller is the
type of fibre used in the cover. Mohair cov-
ers are especially good for applying enamel,
while lambs wool covers are excellent for
alkyd paints, but not latex. Synthetic fibres
make good all-purpose covers. In fact, about
95 percent of all roller covers are synthetic.
Roller fabrics are manufactured in one of
two ways: knitting or weaving. With a knit
fabric, the individual fibres are secured to the
backing with one pass-through. For this rea-
son, knitted fabrics are more likely to shed.
With a woven fabric, the individual fibres are
secured to the backing via two pass-throughs,
forming a “W” in the roller and locking in the
fibres, which helps eliminate shedding.
Woven fabric covers can be used with all
kinds of paint and surfaces. Knitted covers
work best with medium to highly textured
surfaces using flat finishes. You can determine
which roller covers are knitted and which are
woven by looking at the recommended types
of paints and surfaces on the roller package.
Another important factor is the length of
the nap. Smooth surfaces, such as plaster
and hardboard, require 1/4" or 3/16" nap. A
very short nap is used with enamels and
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
12
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
PAINT APPLICATORS
Paint RollerFrame
Yoke-MountedRoller
Paint Pad Tray
Paint Pad Spattershield Roller
SUGGESTING THE RIGHTPAINTBRUSH
For successful painting projects, con-sumers need the correct brush to fit thejob. Various manufacturers recommend anumber of brush sizes and styles for spe-cific painting projects.
LARGE SURFACES—ceilings, floors, chim-neys, shingles, boats and pools.Recommend a wall brush, 7/8" to 1" thickand 3" to 6" wide; 4"-wide flatting brushesare preferred. There are also lightweight4" to 6" flatting brushes that are ideal forlarge areas.
MEDIUM-SIZE AREAS—cupboards, floors,eaves, large pipes, picket fences and table-tops. Recommend a flat varnish or flatsash brush, 2", 2-1/2" or 3" wide. Suggesta 1-1/2" or 2" angular trim brush for win-dow sashes. There are two kinds of sashbrushes: flat and angular.
SMALL AND CORNER AREAS—trellises,radiators, metal furniture, ladders, gardentools and small windows. Recommend 1"or 1-1/2" sash brush or small flat varnishbrush. For small window sashes, suggest1" or 1-1/2" angular trim brush.
AUTOMOTIVE REPAINTING—recom-mend 2-1/2" or 3" soft-hair, flowing-stylebrush, such as quality nylon or ox brushor a good varnish and enamelling brush.
FURNITURE REFINISHING—recommenda 1-1/2", 2" or 2-1/2" soft hair flowing-style brush, such as a quality nylon or oxbrush, or a good varnish brush.
gloss finishes, and longer naps are used with
latex or flat paints.
Naps of 3/8" to 1/2" are used on semi-
rough surfaces such as light stucco, sand-
blasted metal, etc. Rough surfaces such as
concrete block or heavy stucco require
longer naps of 3/4" to 1-1/4".
Determinants of quality in any roller are
the type and density of the fibres used.
When some fibres absorb water, they
become matted and lose resiliency.
Core construction is also important. In a
quality roller, the core is round, has no con-
spicuous seams, shows no indication that the
fabric will separate from the core at the ends,
and does not deform when squeezed gently.
Some cores are made of untreated cardboard,
which will soften and collapse from excess
moisture; phenolic core (treated cardboard)
and plastic will hold up better in heavy serv-
ice. Other roller cores, made of polypropylene,
are thermally fused to the fabric cover, unlike
others in which the fabric and core are glued.
The density of the fibre determines the
roller’s ability to hold paint and spread it
evenly. Inexpensive rollers that become mat-
ted or fail to spread the paint will produce a
mottled finish, regardless of the quality of
paint used. They may also leave lint on the
painted surface.
Roller shields are available to combat spat-
ter and drizzle. Some shields are incorporat-
ed into the structure of the tool.
Trim rollers work well on woodwork,
screens and other small areas that cannot be
painted with standard 9" rollers. They are
available in many different sizes and shapes,
depending on the area for which they are
designed. Mini-rollers quickly paint doors,
shelves, cupboards and other areas that would
be more time-consuming with a brush. They
often have long handles for painting hard-to-
reach spots.
An advanced type of roller is the paint
stick, which pumps paint straight from the
handle or the can to the wall, where it can be
rolled on with the attached roller. The advan-
tage is that the user does not have to deal
with drips or messy trays.
Roller TraysRoller trays are a convenient way to hold
paint when using a paint roller. Most trays
have ribbed bottoms to remove excess paint
from a roller cover after filling it. Ladder-
lock legs per-
mit them to
snap onto a
stepladder. A
good quality
tray can last
indefinitely if
cleaned after each use. Plastic tray liners are
also available. One new tray features a lid
that closes and seals paint, roller or brush
inside the tray. This eliminates the need to
clean the painting equipment after each use.
It also saves paint.For more information, see
(Making Painting Easier).
Extension PolesExtension poles or handles can
make roller painting both faster and
easier for hard-to-reach areas. They
generally range from 1' to 16' in
length. Some poles are adjustable, or
telescoping, to handle a multitude
of painting situations.
They also enable the user to stand
on the floor instead of a ladder when
painting high walls or ceilings.
Paint PadsLike a roller, a paint pad applies paint
quickly—but it also offers several distinct
advantages of its own. Rollers, because of
their circular motion, tend to spatter paint,
especially if rolled too fast. However, pad
applicators lie flat on the surface, allowing
the user to avoid spattering. In addition,
unlike a roller, a pad can be used in corners.
A second advantage is that a pad can be
used in corners. If a ceiling and wall are being
painted separate colours, a roller cannot be
used at the point where the two surfaces meet,
because the roller will mark the other surface.
Most pads are made of mohair or foam and
can apply either latex or oil-based paints.
Paint pads also have guide wheels or trim tabs
that guarantee a straight line at the point of
intersection. This same
device allows for painting
around trim and moulding
without marring the second
surface. Paint pads are also
an excellent way to apply
waterproofing coating to a
deck or fence. Attached to a
long handle, they eliminate
bending and stooping and can be washed
and re-used.
Manufacturers also offer pad trays for
quicker application. Some pad trays are even
equipped with a revolving wheel to ensure—
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
13
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
SUGGESTING THE RIGHT ROLLER COVER
The most important factor in selecting apaint roller cover is the surface that is goingto be painted.
SMOOTH SURFACES—short nap (1/4" to3/16") cover. Longer nap can leave a pro-nounced “orange peel” effect. Use onsmooth plaster, wallboard and smoothwood.
MEDIUM SURFACES—(slightly rough)medium nap (3/8" to 1/2"); longer fibrespush the paint into rough surfaces with-out causing orange peel. Use on sand fin-ish plaster, texture plaster, acoustical tile,poured concrete, rough wood and shakes.
ROUGH SURFACES—long nap (3/4’ to 1-1/4"); longer fibres push paint into thedeep valleys of rough surfaces. Use onconcrete block, stucco, brick, Spanishplaster, cinder block, corrugated metaland asphalt or wood shingles.
GENERAL RULE
The rule for selling and using almost allroller covers: “The smoother the surface,the shorter the nap; the rougher the sur-face, the longer the nap.”
SPECIAL SITUATIONS:
• The application of catalyzed (two-part)fiberglass or epoxy coatings. These coat-ings have strong solvents that destroy nor-mal covers. Special high-solvent covers areavailable for these coatings.
• The application of paint to extremelyrough surfaces occasionally requires anextra-long nap roller cover (1-1/4" or 1-1/2").
• The application of texture paint to asmooth surface requires a special cover topull or peak the paint on the surface forthe desired texture. This is often referredto as a stipple roller cover.
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
14
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
and speed up—the proper loading of the pad.
When a pad is wiped on the revolving wheel,
the proper amount of paint is picked up on
the surface of the pad.
Foam BrushesFoam brushes have handles like regular
brushes, but a foam pad replaces the bristles.
Foam brushes are inexpensive so they are
often considered disposable; however, most
are durable enough to be cleaned and reused.
Foam brushes are ideal for clear finishes.
Most brands are not recommended for use
with lacquer or shellac, which have chemi-
cal formulas that attack the foam.
Texture Paint ApplicatorsSeveral products are designed specifically
for the application of texture paints. Among
them are special
stippling roller
covers, some of
which are foam
with various patterns etched into the sur-
face. Others have deep, looped material.
Special texture painting rollers have large
diameters to accommodate the heavier con-
sistency of texture paints. Texture edgers are
also available to provide texture where
rollers cannot reach.
Paint SprayersIn some cases, spray painting is the most
efficient method. For instance, when the
user is painting large areas with the same
color or painting intricate surfaces such as
furniture or grillwork, other tools often will
not reach all surfaces. However, it requires
some practice to handle the equipment and
get an even paint covering.
Airless sprayers offer the easiest way to
spray paint. Airless sprayers eject paint at
high pressure. They must be handled care-
fully to avoid possible injury. An electric air-
less paint system consists of a paint contain-
er, high-pressure pump, motor, handle and
housing and pressure regulator. Extension
nozzles, longer suction tubes, extra nozzles
and viscosity measuring cups are optional
accessories. Important points to remember
in using an airless sprayer, as with other
types of sprayers, are proper paint consisten-
cy, pressure and tip selection.
Choice of spraying tip depends on paint
consistency, but generally the thinner the
paint, the smaller the tip needed.
Paint consistency also governs pump pres-
sure. Thinner materials such as stains, lac-
quers, enamels and sealers require less pres-
sure than heavier materials such as house
and wall paint.
Paints that have been formulated for
brush or roller application may be too thick
for spraying. They should be tested first and
thinned if necessary.
Other types of spraying equipment present
operational differences. For instance, a suc-
tion gun has a vent hole in the cover of the
paint cap. A stream of compressed air creates
a vacuum, allowing atmospheric pressure to
force material from the container to the
sprayhead. These guns usually are limited to
quart-size containers or smaller. They are used
where many color changes are necessary.
In a pressure-fed system, the material is
force-fed to the gun when large amounts of
the same colour are being used, when mate-
rials are too heavy to be siphoned from a
cap or container by suction, or when fast
application is required.
Non-bleeder sprayers cannot release air
until the trigger is pulled. These are used
when air is supplied from a tank or from a
compressor that has pressure control. On the
other hand, a bleeder gun releases air at all
times, thus preventing the pressure from
building until it pops the safety valve.
Also available is the rotary-disc airless
paint sprayer. An auger pump pulls paint
from a container mounted under the electri-
cally powered spraying head. It then sends
the paint into a high-speed spinning disc.
Centrifugal force from the spinning disc
causes the paint to flow through a variable
gate opening. The gate control regulates the
size of paint swath. The gate control also
eliminates the need for nozzles and reduces
the hazards of high-pressure injection.
High-volume, low-pressure paint sprayers
reduce the amount of overspray typically
caused by airless sprayers and air-powered
spray guns. Not only does more paint reach
the surface, but also painters save time and
money on paint and drop cloths.
Some paint sprayers can be adapted to
other uses—with the right accessories. An air
gun attachment allows the user to blow dust
off of surfaces before painting. An adjustable
HOW TO HANDLE PAINT COMPLAINTS
CHALKING—House paint wears off by this process. Slight chalking is desirable because it keepsthe surface clean and results in a gradual reduction in the thickness of the coating. Beforerecoating, all chalk should be removed by scrubbing the surface with water or wire brushing.
CHECKING AND CRACKING—Slight checking is not a serious defect, but a warning signal torepaint. Cause of this trouble is not allowing sufficient drying time between coats, and applyinga hard-drying finish coat over a soft undercoat. In contraction and expansion of the wood, theelastic undercoat gives, but the brittle topcoat cannot. To prevent checking, wire brush the sur-face before repainting. Allow first coat to dry thoroughly before applying finishing coats.
ALLIGATORING—Alligatoring (similar to checking) is more pronounced and will form a pat-tern like an alligator’s skin. It is usually due to applying a relatively hard drying coat of paintor varnish over a soft undercoat. In cases of severe alligatoring, the entire coat should beremoved with a blow torch, paint remover or scraper. Mild cases should be thoroughly sand-papered, then primed.
WRINKLING—Wrinkling is caused by applying a coat that is too thick. Painting at low tempera-tures may also cause this condition. Avoid wrinkling by brushing all coats out thoroughly andpainting in weather 55° or above. Before repainting, remove wrinkled portion by sanding orusing paint remover. A new coat of primer should follow.
BLISTERING—Blistering occurs when water is present within rather than upon the surface. Heatfrom the sun draws moisture to the surface and expands paint film into a blister. The only reme-dy is to locate the cause of the moisture within the house.
MILDEWING—Mildew is caused by moisture under the paint and appears as black, gray, greenor yellow spots on the painted surface. Scrub affected area with a mixture of household deter-gent, bleach and water, and rinse. When dry, paint with a mildew-resistant paint. If possible, findand remove the source of moisture.
pressure-relief valve regulates maximum air
pressure on air guns. In addition, an inflater
attachment converts the sprayer into a
pump to inflate toys, tires, etc.
Tack ClothsA clean, well-prepared surface is essential
for good paint results. The best way to clean a
surface before painting or repainting is to use
a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a varnish-impreg-
nated, open-mesh cloth. It picks up and holds
loose dirt, sand and other foreign particles
adhering to wood, metal, plaster and other
surfaces. Caution customers to use a tack cloth
on a surface immediately before applying each
coat and between sandings. Although the sur-
face is cleaned with a chemical, lint and dust
can accumulate rapidly, leaving a less-than-
perfect finish if not removed.
Drop ClothsDrop cloths can be made of a variety of
materials, but usually they are plastic.
Heavy-duty, professional-quality cloths are
made of canvas. Triple-coated, butyl-backed
drop cloths offer the best protection against
paint spills, while felt-backed and laminate-
backed drop cloths are other options.
The d-i-y painter should use drop cloths
to protect furniture, fixtures and floors
against common paint splatters and spills.
SandpaperSandpaper is often needed to complete
preparation of a surface that is to be painted.
Customers should know that sanding will be
necessary to paint wood or glossy surfaces.
Five general types of sandpaper are com-
mon among d-i-yers: garnet, emery, alu-
minum oxide, silicone carbide and alumina
zirconia. Of these, the first two are natural
minerals or abrasives; the others are synthet-
ic materials that are tougher and longer
wearing than the natural abrasives.
Each of these types may be manufactured
on a variety of backings, including paper,
cloth and fibre.
Garnet is a reddish-brown natural abra-
sive. By special heat treatment, a tougher,
sturdier grain is produced. Garnet is used
almost exclusively in the woodworking field;
it is not suitable for use on metal.
Emery is a black natural abrasive that can
polish metal surfaces. Emery is typically used
in conjunction with an oil lubricant.
Aluminum oxide is the most common gen-
eral abrasive. It is a synthetic brown that is
hard and long-wearing. It is used on wood,
metal or painted surfaces and is well suited to
finishing high-tensile materials such as steels
and bronzes, as well as some hardwoods. See
packaging or manufacturers’ literature for
advisability of use on hardwood.
Silicone carbide is hard and sharp—effec-
tive in sanding low-tensile materials such as
cast iron, aluminum, copper or plastic. It is
also useful between coats of finish.
Alumina zirconia is harder than silicon
carbide and tougher than aluminum oxide.
It should be used for grinding and shaping
metal and wood—not for polishing.
Sandpapers conform to the same numeri-
cal system for grading coarseness. The small-
er the number, the coarser the grit.
Coarseness generally runs from 12 (extra
coarse) to 1500 (ultra-fine). Grit finer than
600 is usually measured on the European
FEPA scale, and identified with a “P” imme-
diately before the number.
Micron coating abrasive has emerged as a
system of measuring very fine abrasive grit.
For example, 10 micron is equivalent to
P1500. These products are usually intended
for applications in opthalmic and automo-
tive refinishing.
Sandpaper for wet sanding has a flexible
waterproof backing. Usually coated with sili-
con carbide, it comes in several grits (from
60 to P1200) and is used for fine finishing
and polishing.
Sandpaper comes in two styles: open coat(OC) and closed coat. “Coat” refers to how
densely the grain is adhered to the surface.
“Closed coat” means 100 percent of the sur-
face is covered with grain.
Open-coat sandpaper has greater spacing
between the grains, which prevents it from
clogging up as quickly with sanding residue.
Closed-coat sandpaper, however, fills more
rapidly with the substance being sanded and
must be discarded sooner. Consumers for
whom clogging is an issue should be direct-
ed to paper with a special anti-static surface
treatment, which resists such clogging.
Special sandpaper is also available for dry-
wall and plaster sanding. This abrasive
screen cloth is durable and more resistant to
fill from drywall compound and plaster.
The back of each sandpaper sheet con-
tains important labeling information,
including product and lot number, abrasive
type, grit size, whether it is open or closed
coat and backing. The backing weight is
rated by letter. “A” is the thinnest weight,
while “C” and “D” are the best options for
hand sanding of wood. “X” is effective for
heavy-duty sanding.
Keep in mind sanding-related acces-
sories, such as rubber or wood-sanding
blocks, which can be used to produce
more evenhanded sanding. Variations of
the traditional sanding block used with
sandpaper include sanding blocks and
sanding sponges coated with or made of
an abrasive agent. Major advantages for
these include the fact they tend to last
longer than sandpaper and they can take
the form of the item being sanded.
Steel WoolSteel wool is a popular accessory item. It
should be used before painting on any
glossy surface.
Overall, its uses include removing grime
and sludge prior to refinishing, preparing new
surfaces, removing old coating to raw wood,
and for application in between coats of enam-
el, paint, shellac or varnish. It removes paint
from glass, furniture, tile and other surfaces.
Steel wool comes in grades ranging from
fine to coarse.
More water-based strippers and finishes
have led to a man-made synthetic steel wool
product. This product will not cause spot-
ting in wood, as standard steel wool can
when used with water-based finishes.
Among boat owners, bronze wool is a
popular alternative to steel wool.
■ CHEMICALSBrush and Roller Cleaners
Commercially prepared brush and roller
cleaners substantially reduce cleaning—and
help applicators last for years. Before these
preparations are used, excess paint should be
brushed or rolled from the tools. If directions
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
15
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
are followed properly, cleaning is not a chore.
Commercially prepared, solvent-based
brush cleaners should not be used to clean
wet or fresh latex or acrylic paints from
brushes or rollers. Use soap and warm water,
or follow the paint manufacturers’ directions
for cleaning fresh latex from brushes. When
brushes have been rinsed thoroughly, they
are ready for reuse or storage. If paint has
dried or hardened in the heel of the brush, a
commercial cleaner should be used. To
remove dried paint, soak the applicator in
cleaner several hours or overnight. Then
comb the excess paint from the bristles,
rinse the brush with warm water and wrap it
in newspaper to dry.
Most brush and roller cleaners will not
harm either natural or nylon bristle brushes,
but they can harm synthetic bristles.
Synthetic brushes should be cleaned in accor-
dance with the manufacturers’ instructions.
If commercial brush and roller cleaners
are not used, tools must be washed thor-
oughly with turpentine or the appropriate
solvent (alcohol for shellac, lacquer solvents
for lacquer) until clean. When thoroughly
cleaned, they can be washed with soap and
water and set aside for future use.
Brushes that are used to apply more than
one coat of the same colour do not have to
be cleaned between coat applications. Plastic
can be secured around the bristles to keep the
paint moist when the brush is not in use.
Paint spinners and brush combs can be
used to clean rollers and brushes.
ThinnersMost thinners include mineral spirits, tur-
pentine, alcohol and lacquer thinner.
Thinning often changes paint color slightly.
Therefore, all paint should be thinned at the
same time to ensure that colours do not
change in the middle of a job.
Mineral spirits are a petroleum distillate
solvent frequently used in the manufactur-
ing and thinning of oil-based paints.
Odorless mineral spirits have been refined to
remove some odorous components.
Turpentine has greater solvency than min-
eral spirits, causing it to work more quickly.
It also has a stronger odor and contains a
small amount of resin.
Alcohol is available in denatured, wood or
methanol form. Wood and methanol alco-
hols are extremely toxic and should not be
recommended for do-it-yourselfers.
Denatured alcohol, a safer substance, is used
for thinning and for cleaning shellac and
pigmented shellac primer. Alcohol is excel-
lent for removing grease and oil spots, fin-
gerprints and other smudges.
Lacquer thinner is available in many
grades and degrees of solvency and in sever-
al speeds of evaporation. Lacquer thinner is
an excellent cleaner for brushes used in any
paint product except shellacs. Since it leaves
no residue, lacquer thinner does not require
cleaned brushes to be washed with soap and
water. However, it is an extremely flammable
solvent that should be used with caution.
Paint and Varnish RemoversChemical paint and varnish removers are
formulated to dissolve or soften old finishes
for easy removal. Some are a gel or semi-paste
formula and others are available in spray-on
or aerosol form. Methylene chloride is the pri-
mary solvent in traditional paint strippers, but
health concerns have been raised regarding
prolonged exposure to “meth,” which has led
to the development of “safe” non-meth strip-
pers. Methylene Chloride is clear, colourless
and has a mildly sweet odour. Direct contact
with the chemical can cause skin irritation.
When using strippers, advise customers to
read the safety and usage instructions on the
label, wear chemical-resistant gloves and pro-
tective clothing, ventilate the room if using
indoors and avoid exposure to the skin and
eyes. Drinking alcoholic beverages before, dur-
ing or after use of any solvents may cause
undesirable effects. Also, smoking or use of
open flames while using paint removers, even
if nonflammable, should not be permitted.
Nonflammable removers contain large quanti-
ties of chlorinated solvents, which form toxic
gases when the fumes come into contact with
flame or hot surfaces.
While non-meth strippers are safer to
use, they take longer to act and are more
expensive than their meth counterparts.
However, they stay active longer, which
means they can remove more paint layers
in a single application.
Products are designed specifically to
remove shellac, varnish and lacquer, paint or
stain. Some strippers change color to signal
completion of the process, and some
removers are formulated so that no after
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
16
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
SOLVENT SAFETY TIPS
Since paint stripping and refinishing sol-vents must be strong chemicals to workproperly, they also require certain precau-tions before, during and after their use.Here are some tips.
• Keep away from sparks, heat and openflames.
• Disconnect power to electrical outlets,switches and fixtures by unscrewing thefuse or tripping the circuit breaker.
• Turn off all pilot lights and other flames,even if they are in other rooms or utilityclosets.
• Disconnect, unplug or turn off clothesdryers, furnaces and water heaters. Beespecially careful to disconnect electricigniters in gas systems that do not havepilot lights.
• Unplug or disconnect and do not oper-ate electric switches or motors (refrigera-tors, dishwashers, vacuum cleaners, fur-nace blowers, electric or gas appliances,stoves or heaters).
• Keep all metal objects (scrapers, steelwool pads) from contacting any electricaloutlet, fixture or switch.
• Do not use, relight or reconnect any ofthe above items until all smell of solventsis gone.
• Do not smoke, use matches or lighters—and do not allow others to do so—whensolvents are being used.
• Most solvent vapors are heavier than airand tend to collect in low spots. Preventvapor build-up by providing fresh air ven-tilation (cross-ventilation) at floor levelduring and after use of solvents. Open allwindows and doors to create ventilationand disperse fumes. (Fans are not recom-mended because unless specially con-structed, they can cause sparks.) Keepvapors out of ventilation systems (furnaceand air conditioning ductwork and fans).
• Keep products out of the reach ofchildren.
• Close container after each use.
• Do not transfer products to unlabeledcontainers.
• If paint is swallowed, follow the first aidinstructions on the label and contact adoctor or poison control center.
wash or neutralizing is required. Be familiar
with manufacturers’ products and have their
literature available. If after wash is necessary,
neither alcohol nor lacquer thinner should
be used; the wax used in paint removers is
not soluble in those solvents.
Remind consumers that all strippers
should be brushed on in one direction to
make sure the chemical seals properly. In
addition, keep in mind that water-wash may
raise the grain of wood; it may darken or
even blacken some woods, such as oak.
Do your customer and your store a favor
by recommending the purchase of other
materials needed to complete the project.
Related items here include natural bristle
paint brushes, solvent-resistant gloves, safety
goggles, putty knives, drop cloths, stiff
brushes and rags.
For exterior uses, a chemical paint and
varnish stripper can be applied to an old
painted or stained surface—via brush,
sprayer or roller—and then sprayed off
along with the old finish. Most strippers are
organic solvents or caustic salts available in
ready-to-use liquid form. Advise users to
avoid contact with skin and eyes, wear pro-
tective clothing and equipment, and use
care in handling. For more information, see
(Removing Old Paint & Varnish).
Refinishing SystemsRefinishing systems are designed to elimi-
nate the stripping, scraping and sanding
usually identified with refinishing furniture
and removing old varnish, lacquer or shel-
lac. Products can be merchandised individu-
ally or in kits.
Most kits’ refinishing solution is applied
with fine steel wool to small areas at a time.
The cleaned, original finish is then lightly
buffed with dry steel wool to open the wood
pores. A new finish can then be applied with
a clean cloth—though homeowners should
first wipe away any excess finishing solution
with a dry cloth. Manufacturers offer several
finishes that preserve and seal the wood,
with the option of a high-gloss finish or a
more natural finish.
Besides refinishers that remove old fur-
niture finish and new finish solutions, fur-
niture cleaners for cleaning wax buildup
are available.
Organic, water-based strippers are an
alternative to traditional chemical strip-
pers. Water-based strippers soften varnish
and can be left on overnight without dam-
aging the wood. They can be applied over
the whole project at once with a thick
(1/8" minimum) coat.
Liquid Cleaners and DeglossersLiquid cleaners and deglossers prepare sur-
faces before painting and assist paint and
varnish in bonding to old finishes. These
products are available in water- or solvent-
based formulations. Concrete cleaner is
specifically designed to clean and degrease
concrete and masonry surfaces and to pre-
pare concrete basement floors to be painted.
Rust Removers and ConvertersRust remover cuts through and dissolves
rust from metal surfaces. In jellied form, it
clings well to vertical surfaces. When users
brush it on, the rust dissolves quickly. These
products are extremely harsh on the skin;
protective gloves should be worn.
Rust converters react chemically to form a
metal shield that can be painted. By convert-
ing the rust to iron tannate, the converter sta-
bilizes the rusting process. The solution also
halts under-film corrosion—another plus,
since scraping, brushing and sandblasting
often do not remove rust that lies in cavities.
The solution is applied with a stiff brush or
aerosol spray and allowed to dry for 12 to 24
hours, depending on humidity (check manu-
facturer labeling and literature). Mill scale,
rust chips, loose rust, blisters, deteriorated
paints, grease and the like should be removed
before applying the solution.
DegreasersDegreasers are available in solid, liquid and
aerosol form. They are used to remove dirt,
oil and grease from basement and garage
floors, driveways, patios and sidewalks.
Many are made for concrete only and
should not be used on blacktop surfaces.
Contents are spread evenly over the dirty
surface. Water is then applied. Then the sur-
face is scrubbed with a broom.
Contents should be left to penetrate the
surface for best results. Finally, the surface
should be hosed down with water.
Wallpaper RemoversWallpaper can be removed with liquid
spray-on solutions, steamers, special gel for-
mulations or other tools. Product develop-
ments over the past decade have made a dif-
ficult task more manageable.
Traditional wallpaper removers wet the
paper and paste and then required a lot of
scraping. Wallcovering scrapers and shavers
feature an angled blade or head to prevent
wall gouging. Wallcovering scoring tools per-
forate waterproof wallcoverings so the
remover solution can penetrate the paste.
Now available is a wallpaper stripper based
on enzyme action that breaks down the paste,
destroying its adhesive strength. It is also
available in a water-based gel formulation that
can be applied with a brush or roller.
Another type of wallpaper removal system
is a special water-absorbent fabric that enables
water to work in a wicking action through the
wallpaper, which softens and weakens wallpa-
per adhesive and makes removal easy. The fab-
ric sheets can be reused many times.
Exterior Wood TreatmentsDeck cleaners and restorers are designed to
clean and restore weathered wood surfaces
such as decks and siding by removing dirt,
mildew, algae and fungus stain. They are gen-
erally made of oxygen bleaches, chlorine
bleaches or oxalic acid-based formulas. Warn
customers to be cautious about protecting skin
and eyes while using these products. Some
contain harsh chemicals like sodium hydrox-
ide which is a corrosive agent.
Oxygen-type bleaches are effective at
removing mildew stains, dirt and weathered
gray residues.
Chlorine bleaches combat mildew but are
not effective at removing dirt or surface
deposits. In addition, if the chemical is not
rinsed properly, the chlorine salt can cause
the wood to gray prematurely.
Oxalic acid is not effective against mildew,
but it is the best choice for redwood or cedar
because it renders tannin and iron stains col-
orless. Tannins are natural resins contained
in cedar and redwood that react with iron in
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
fasteners or nails to cause blue-black stains.
Products that are formulated with thick-
eners will adhere better to vertical surfaces
such as siding and deck rails.
Wood Care ProductsLemon oil can be used to replenish fine
wood with its natural oils while protecting
the finish. It is best to use products that con-
tain no beeswax or silicones that could cause
a buildup or darken the wood.
Exterior wood filler, which is used for
exterior repairs, is cured to prevent fading
from ultraviolet light. Latex wood filler fillsgouges, holes and other imperfections. It
features little odour, can be stained and
cleans up easily with water. Solvent-basedwood filler looks like wood and can be sand-
ed, cut, drilled, stained, varnished and paint-
ed.
Water putty wood patch fills cracks and
holes in woodwork and sets loose joints. It
can be cut, sanded, chiseled and stained and
dries quick and hard.
Wood stain pens will hide minor scratch-
es, nicks and chips on furniture and woods.
Wood and swell lock swells and tightens
loose chair rungs, dowels and mortise joints.
Coloured putty comes in a range of popu-
lar wood shades to fill countersunk nail
holes and cracks on woodwork that has
already been stained. Oil-based putty in jars
stays soft and cures over a long time; water-
based putty in squeeze tubes sets hard and is
compatible with waterborne finishes.
Putty pencils are heavily pigmented wax
sticks that resemble crayons. They fill and
colour nail holes, joints, cracks and scratches
to match the shade of surrounding wood-
work. They are used often to avoid a major
refinishing project by hiding minor damage.
Because they are wax-based, putty pencils
should only be used on new woodwork after
the final coat of finish has been applied and
hardened.
Wood hardeners are liquid consolidants
that seep deep into soft, deteriorated wood
fibers, then harden to restore strength and
some structural integrity. Depending on the
strength required, the formula can be water-
based, solvent-based or two-part epoxy.
Wood rebuilders are heavy-duty repair
compounds that replace rotted or broken
woodwork. They are usually two-part
resin/hardener polyester or epoxy systems,
and offer the best strength for holding nails
and resetting screws.
HOUSEHOLD ADHESIVES
As much as with any product category,
retailers should be familiar with manufac-
turers’ guidelines on household adhesives.
The category can be confusing because of
the variety and the frequent overlap of
uses. Read labels and encourage your cus-
tomers to do the same.
Customers should be advised to use as
much adhesive as necessary. For most
products, the adhesive should squeeze out
from between the joints.
Safety is also a major factor. Manufacturers
have developed non-flammable adhesives
that will do some of the same jobs as
older formulations; for instance, latex-
based and chlorinated solvent-based adhe-
sives have taken the place of some petro-
leum-based products.
White glue is a non-waterproof adhesive
used mostly for interior woodworking jobs
where a waterproof joint is not required.
Usually packaged in plastic squeeze bottles,
these inexpensive, milky-white glues dry clear
and are fast setting. Ready for use from the
bottle, they are widely used for bonding
paper, fabric, cardboard, cork and leather, as
well as wood. They can withstand a moderate
amount of strain.
Woodworkers’ glue has a faster grab than
white glue. It is usually tinted an off-white
or yellow. Woodworkers’ glue is used in
applications where better water resistance,
heat resistance and ease of sanding are
desired. Aliphatic wood glue, a general-pur-
pose adhesive, is also popular among people
who are doing woodwork, including those
building or repairing furniture.
Instant-setting glues, technically known as
cyanoacrylates, create a strong, instant bond
with a small amount of glue. Regular cyano-
acrylates will bond almost all non-porous
materials such as ceramic, some plastics, rub-
ber, metal or synthetics. These instant-setting
glues are in a gel form.
Most manufacturers recommend that con-
sumers do not use cyanoacrylates on glass,
although these glues will perform acceptably
on Teflon™ and polyethylene surfaces. They
also should not be used to fill gaps.
Some instant-setting glue can be used
on porous materials such as wood, leather
or paper; the exception is any foam that
cannot be bonded with cyanoacrylates.
Instant-setting glues quickly form a strong
bond. These glues should be handled care-
fully. Keep glue off hands.
Epoxy glues are one of the strongest
adhesives known. They are designed pri-
marily for the bonding of non-porous sur-
faces but can be used effectively on wood.
Available in clear, white or metallic finish,
all true epoxies come in two parts: a resin and
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
18
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
VOC REGULATIONS CAUSING A STIR
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) found in paints, stains and coatings escape into the air andcontribute to pollution by reacting with vehicle emissions, coal burning and other sources thatconsume nitrogen, including trees.
Most paints and finishes contain solvents that contain VOCs. VOCs react with sunlight to formozone in the lower atmosphere, which is known to cause lung damage and eye irritation, as wellas contribute to air pollution.
Paint manufacturers have reworked (or offered new) paint formulations that are less hazardousto the environment. Retailers should arm themselves with knowledge to answer questions aboutthe differences between the reformulated products and the standard items they were selling.For example, some reformulated oil-based products require additional applications and takelonger to dry.
Familiarize yourself and your staff with the regulations in your area and the products you carry.Request and read manufacturers’ literature and product labels. Does the “environmentally safe”product work the same way as the old paint carried? Know the answers for your customers.
a hardener (or “catalyst”). These must be
mixed together before the adhesive is used.
Once mixed, the material will set permanent-
ly in a specified length of time—most will
permanently bond, even under water. The
bond will withstand practically all common
solvents when curing is complete.
Epoxies are excellent for sealing gaps and
will withstand vibration and shock; they
can be used on pipes, radiators, wood,
metal, ceramic tile, china, marble, glass and
masonry. Clean-up can be difficult.
Urethane adhesive is a one-part adhesive
offering the strength of an epoxy without
mixing. It requires clamping and 24 hours
to cure fully, but it does bond most materi-
als. Its strong bond will endure stress such
as that required to mend furniture, tool
handles and children’s toys. Polyurethane is
good for a bond between either similar or
dissimilar surfaces.
Contact cement can be used on many
surfaces, but the joints it makes may
come apart under a heavy load. Good to
bond laminates to countertops and cabi-
nets, or to glue plastic foam, hardboard or
metal to wood.
Instant adhesion makes contact cement
difficult to use. It bonds immediately with-
out clamping and resists water, temperature
extremes and fungi. Contact cement is most
effective when one or both surfaces are
porous or semi-porous. Contact cement
contains solvents that should be allowed to
flash off before assembly. Non-flammable
versions are available.
Clear cement works best on porous mate-
rials. With non-porous materials, clear
cement makes a good bond when applied
only around the edges. Clear cements are
familiar to youngsters as model airplane
glue. It is clear and colourless, it resists
water and is suitable for use on flexible as
well as rigid joints. These adhesives often
contain solvents such as toluene that can be
abused by children (sniffing).
Silicone rubber is for strong, flexible
joints on wood, dissimilar surfaces such as
metal, rubber, glass, ceramics, brick, wood
and polystyrene foam.
Plastic resin glue is powdered urea
formaldehyde glue. When mixed with water,
it makes highly water-resistant bonds.
Frequently used for furniture repair, it is
applied to clean, close-fitting surfaces and
cured under pressure for at least 10 hours at
20° C. The finished glue is non-toxic and
impervious to most materials.
Waterproof glue (also called resorcinolglue) is a two-component adhesive of liq-
uid resin and powdered catalyst. Used in
wood joints, it cures under pressure in 10
hours at 20° C.
Casein glue is powdered casein that
mixes with water. It is less expensive than
plastic resin and waterproof glue and has
good filling qualities for heavy wood glu-
ing. It sets in three hours at 20° C.
Acrylic adhesives are non-flammable,
waterproof, two-part adhesives that hold
well under stress. Applied without mixing,
acrylic adhesives bond most surfaces
including oily or porous surfaces. Bond
forms in 30 to 60 seconds, with perma-
nent strength reached in 45 minutes. It is
not recommended for use on polyethyl-
ene or polypropylene.
Hot-melt adhesives come in several types,
including clear, hot-melt glue sticks for gener-
al-purpose use, white caulk sticks and sticks
formulated for wood repair. Hot-melt glue
sticks are used only in hot-melt glue guns.
Mastic is a general term for any thick
adhesive. Used in heavy-duty bonding
and construction, mastics are usually
applied with a caulking gun or trowel.
Heavy-duty adhesive is solid adhesive
for flat surfaces indoors and outdoors. The
adhesive permanently attaches rigid plas-
tics, ceramic, metal, finished woods and
glass. It has an industrial-strength bond
and resists temperature, water, oil, gas,
detergents and vibrations.
REPAIR/PATCHINGTOOLS & MATERIALS
Wall Scrapers and Joint KnivesWall scrapers are used to scrape old wall-
paper off walls and peeling paint from work
surfaces, to tape joints and to patch plaster.
Most do-it-yourselfers prefer 3", 4", 5" and
6" sizes. Professionals generally use 10” and
12" taping knives.
Quality wall scrapers have flexible, high-car-
bon steel blades that are hardened, tempered
and individually ground. Another mark of
quality is a design that allows for a single
piece of steel, which runs from the tip of the
blade to the end of the handle. Handles are
made of shatterproof plastic or wood.
Drywall joint knives come in larger sizes,
ranging from 5" to 16". The most popular
size is 6". Signs of quality are similar to those
of wall scrapers.
Less expensive wall scrapers or joint knives
are manufactured from high-carbon steel,
with blades securely fastened into a seamless,
shatterproof handle, frequently wood.
A corner tool is used to apply tape and
joint compounds when a perfect corner job
is desired. It is available in 3" or 4" sizes.
The process of installing drywall and gyp-
sum wallboard is relatively simple, but com-
pleting the project requires skill and drywall
finishing tools.
To achieve a smooth-looking surface, the
taping process covers the joints between the
wallboard panels. Joint cement is then
applied in thin layers and sanded to create
an even surface.
A corner roughing knife, a corner finish-
ing knife, a broad knife (usually about 10"
wide) and a utility knife are the basic tools
used in this project. The corner knife
embeds the tape on both sides of a corner. A
point on the knife pushes the tape into the
corner joint.
The corner finishing knife feathers the
joint compound over the edges of the tape
and leaves a smooth, sharp corner. The
broad knife feathers and smoothes joint
compound over flat joints. The utility knife
is used to smooth spackling compound over
nail holes, cracks and other rough areas.
Sponge rollers are also available for both
corners and flat areas to pick up and roll out
joint compound.
Ergonomics (the combination of comfort
and shape with the general effectiveness of
the intended application of the product) has
become an increasingly popular feature in
various hand tools. Retailers can expect such
issues of hand fit and versatility to be an
important selling point for scrapers and
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
19
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
knives as well.
Paint and Varnish ScrapersA paint and varnish scraper (also called a
“wood scraper”) removes old finishes and
smoothes the surface with its sharp cutting
blade. When using chemical removers, con-
sumers should know to use a chemical-resist-
ant scraper. Plastic, chemical-resistant scrapers
tend to be gentler on wood than metal scrap-
ers.
Sizes range from the 1" blade—primarily
used for small, hard-to-reach areas—to a
5" blade. Most blades are made from tem-
pered, high-carbon steel and can be sharp-
ened with a file.
Razor-blade scrapers are used to scrape
excess paint off windows. They hold either
single- or double-edge razor blades. The
most popular type has a retractable blade
that slides in or out of the handle.
Putty KnivesPutty knives range from
1" to 2-1/2". Generally, the
greatest demand is for 1-1/4"
and 1-1/2".
The finest quality putty
knife blades are made
from mirror-finished,
high-carbon steel and are
hardened, tempered and
individually ground.
The way the blade is
attached to the handle is a
means of determining quali-
ty. Top-quality models have blades running
from the tip of the blade through to the end
of the handle.
Putty knives are used for scraping paint,
chipping out old putty, scraping off accu-
mulated grease and scraping old finishes
off furniture.
Multi-purpose ToolsManufacturers have developed several
multi-purpose tools. One trim guard not only
keeps paint off adjoining surfaces, it can also
be used to smooth out wallcoverings during
application. Another multi-purpose tool that
resembles a putty knife can be used as a putty
knife, scraper, can and bottle opener, hammer,
nail and tack puller as well as a utility knife.
Electric Paint RemoversAn electric paint remover, which contains
a heating element similar to an electric
appliance, is placed on the coated surface
and pulled along slowly. Users should follow
along with a scraper to remove the softened
paint. (However, this method is not recom-
mended on latex).
The tool should be kept in motion to pre-
vent burnt wood. Although a relatively safe
method of paint removal, an electric paint
remover still must be handled carefully.
Hot Air GunsHot air guns produce heat up to 550° C to
melt paint and remove it easily. Some guns
have variable heat settings. Unlike electric
strippers, the guns are held above the painted
surface (usually 2" to 4"), and a putty knife or
scraper then removes the paint.
Hot air guns can be used to remove var-
nish and paint, as well as to soften and
remove putty, laminate or dry paint and
wood finishes.
Masking TapeMasking tape is a general-purpose, pres-
sure-sensitive tape. A quality masking tape
unwinds easily without splitting. It has
excellent ability to stick immediately and
securely to nearly all surfaces, yet pulls
away without damaging the surface.
Pressure-sensitive tape is also available for
securing carpeting, underlay and rugs. This
is a double-faced tape that adheres securely
to fabric and flooring, forming a bond that
prevents creeping, bulging and overlapping.
A pressure-sensitive tape is also available for
padding and absorbing shock. It is suggested
for covering bottoms of lamps, ashtrays and
bookends and is more durable than felt.
A multi-purpose tape consisting of
asphalt adhesive with aluminum facing
makes general repairs in roofing, gutter-
ing, leaking pipes and hoses in addition
to sealing cracks.
All-purpose tapes are increasingly being
replaced by tapes designed for specific tasks
such as for use on baseboards and trim,
glass, hard-to-stick surfaces, lacquer surfaces,
brick and tile, and delicate surfaces, as well
as two-sided tape for holding up drop cloth
and solvent-resistant tape designed for spray
painting projects.
Masking tools are available to make the
taping process go quicker. Some types offer
automatic tape alignment for applying
masking tape on trim and moldings.
Spackling CompoundThis is a fine-ground, slow-setting powder.
It remains workable for three to four hours.
Spackling compound is excellent for patching
cracked plaster, filling nail holes, repairing
wall tile and smoothing surface imperfections
on unprimed wood. For more information,
see (How to Patch & Repair Drywall).To save mixing, most companies make
spackling compound in paste form. This is
harder to work with, especially in larger
holes. Lightweight spackling is the easiest
to use—it will not shrink, crack or sag and
requires little or no sanding. The com-
pound can be painted almost immediate-
ly. Patches with lightweight spackling,
however, are not as sturdy as those made
with powder-mix compounds.
One type of spackling changes colour
when optimum drying time is achieved. It
goes on pink and turns white when dry.
Exterior spackling paste is for repairing
minor cracks, breaks and holes in wood and
masonry. It dries quickly, sands easily, is
resistant to mildew and weathering and is
ready to paint in minutes.
Wallboard joint compound comes pre-
mixed for easy application to cover and fin-
ish gypsum wallboard joints. Add a little
water and mix for at least one minute. It
should be smooth before using. Wallboardjoint tape is used with joint compound to
help reinforce gypsum panel joints. For
more information, see (HangingDrywall).
Stucco patch repairs large cracks and holes
in both interior and exterior stucco. It
matches texture of the original stucco and is
durable and permanent.
Tile GroutTile grout is a white powder (also avail-
able in paste form) that becomes a strong
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
20
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
patching agent when mixed with water. It
is effective in areas subject to moisture
and strain. Frequently used to fill cracks
between bathtubs and walls, it can also be
used to repair cracks around kitchen
sinks, towel racks, soap dishes and wash
basins and for filling breaks between floor
and wall tile. It dries white, unless tinted
with a dry color.
Also available are a wide range of colored
tile grouts (sanded and non-sanded) that can
be used with all types of tile, marble, slate
and granite.
Grout colourant renews or changes grout
colour. It seals grout joints and evens
colours.
Grout sealer offers invisible protection
from grease, oil, stains, dirt, mold and
mildew for tile, grout and masonry. It can be
used on all sanded and non-sanded grout
colours, indoors or outdoors.
Grout cleaner is a non-abrasive cleaner
that’s strong enough to cut through
grease, stains, mould and mildew but will
not erode grout.
Glazing CompoundGlazing compound is a long-lasting mate-
rial used for glazing wood or metal sash. It
remains semi-elastic under a smooth, firm,
wrinkle-free film that forms when the mate-
rial sets. It does not dry rock-hard and is eas-
ier to remove when reglazing.
It resists cold, heat and moisture and is used
for patching or sealing small openings or
cracks. Glazing can be tinted with oil colour.
Joint CementJoint cement is used in drywall construc-
tion as a bedding compound for the joint
tape and as filler for nail holes. It is available
in powder or ready-mixed form. Some ready-
mixed types may also be used as texture
paint. One pound (0.5 kg) is sufficient for 12
lineal feet of joint surfaces. For more infor-
mation, see (Hanging Drywall).
Patching PlasterPatching plaster is a fast-setting powder
ready to use by adding water. It dries hard to
uniform, white colour. It repairs and covers
large holes and deep cracks in plaster walls
and ceilings. Patching plaster may be drilled,
sanded and painted and can be textured to
match existing surface.
Plaster and Putty PencilsPlaster pencils are used for repairing
cracks and small holes in plaster. They
require no mixing, have good adhesion and
dry quickly.
Putty pencils serve a similar purpose,
though they are coloured to fill holes in
wood. Customers pick the putty pencil to
match the wood tones in their home.
Plaster of ParisPlaster of Paris is a quick-setting white
powder used to repair wallboard, plaster
walls and ceilings, set bathroom wall fix-
tures—towel racks, soap dishes, etc.—and
for art projects. It hardens in 5-30 min-
utes. No more water than necessary
should be added; when water evaporates,
the plaster shrinks.
Putty Available in either dry or pliable form,
putty repairs cracks, dents, breaks and holes
in furniture, wood and concrete floors,
woodwork, metal and other interior sur-
faces.
In dry form (known as water putty
because water must be added), it dries to
the shade of new wood but can be tinted
with dry colour. It sets rapidly, cannot be
reworked, dries hard and can be sanded,
tooled and finished like wood.
Pliable putty (also known as wood putty
because it is made from hardwood) is
rubbed on wood surfaces before painting to
close pores in certain woods such as oak,
mahogany, walnut, chestnut, elm, butter-
nut, hickory, ash, rosewood and satinwood.
It is not synonymous with patching materi-
als, which fill holes or cracks in finished or
unfinished surfaces.
Most wood putties come in paste form
and must be thinned; the container label
tells which thinner to use. Putty is brushed
on, rubbed, sanded and sealed before fin-
ishing.
Wood putties are available in water-based
form, allowing greater safety, rapid drying
and less shrinkage. All wood putty patches
must be sanded flush with the old surface.
Patches can be stained, painted or var-
nished.
Epoxy MendersEpoxy menders have excellent adhesive
qualities and are effective in repairing auto
bodies, appliances, plumbing, rain gutters,
playground equipment and garden tools.
Epoxy is a two-part resin and hardener.
These menders usually are white or metallic
color. Surfaces must be free of all foreign
materials, including paint, for epoxy
menders to work effectively.
The two must be mixed together before
the adhesive is effective. Once mixed, the
material will set permanently in a specific
length of time—from a few minutes to 24
hours, depending on the room tempera-
ture.
The bond formed is waterproof and per-
manent and will withstand attack by practi-
cally all common solvents when final cur-
ing is complete.
Because epoxy adhesives harden into
solid mass when mixed, they can also be
used as a patching or filling material for
repair jobs. They can be used to make per-
manent repairs on cracked pipes or radia-
tors or on rotted wooden or metal gutters.
Vinyl Patching KitsVinyl patching kits contain a patching
material that forms a permanent patch over
holes, tears, etc., in vinyl. Some kits require
heat, while other patching material cures in
air and requires no heat. Also included in
these kits is an assortment of “graining
paper,” used to reproduce any design in the
vinyl.
With a backing behind the hole in the
vinyl, patching material is brushed over the
hole and proper graining paper is laid over
the patch.
With material that requires heat, an iron
is then pressed over the graining paper to
apply the proper heat to the patching
material, causing it to take on the pattern
of the vinyl and to set properly.
An assortment of touch-up colours is
available to blend the patch into the colour
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
21
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
of the vinyl.
Laminate Repair KitsLaminate countertop repair kits provide
adhesive and filler to patch chips, burns and
scars in laminate surfaces.
Assorted decorator colours and wood
tones are available. Mixing time for colour
compounds is usually unlimited to pro-
vide time for a perfect match before hard-
ener is added. After adding hardener and
mixing, filler cures in about five minutes.
Filler stands up to shock and is heat-
resistant up to about 200° F.
Fiberglass PatchingFiberglass fabric for patching and water-
proofing is popular because of its continued
flexibility after application, preventing reap-
pearance of the same crack.
Sold in kits, it includes fiberglass tape and
oil-based mastic. After the tape is applied over
the crack, the mastic is brushed over the tape.
The edges are then feathered to blend with
the surface being repaired. Kits are recom-
mended for repairing rain gutters, roofing,
interior walls and wood surfaces.
Marble RefinisherMarble refinisher restores mirror-like shine
on polished stone and removes light etch-
ing, watermarks, glass rings and dullness.
CAULKS ANDSEALANTS
Caulking and sealing are inexpensive
ways to seal air and water leaks in homes.
They can also prevent moisture damage—
protecting wood, masonry and other sur-
faces from rain and wind—as well as
improving appearance by filling gaps.
However, no particular product is an all-pur-
pose solution or preventative.
Although “caulk” and “sealant” are
often used interchangeably, a sealant is
generally a high-performance caulk.
Sealants are used to close the crack or joint
between sills and foundations; where siding
joins window and door trim; openings around
external electrical outlets, electrical and tele-
phone cables; dryer vents; kitchen, attic and
bathroom vents; flashings; skylights; other
cracks and openings that leak water into
homes or that leak heated air and energy out.
Caulks, on the other hand, are appropriate
for most interior finishing projects; many do
not perform well in wet areas or outdoors.
Most caulks are best for sealing cracks that are
no more than 1/4" wide or 1/4" deep.
The following questions can help you
guide customers to the right caulk or sealant
for their projects.
o Where will the sealant be applied?
o What substrates or surfaces will be
caulked or bonded?
o How much movement or stress will be
endured by the joint to be sealed?
o What type of performance requirements
does the caulk need to meet?
Caulks come in formulations that can
withstand movement and temperature
changes. Most caulks are available in bulk
form and in caulking gun cartridges. In fact,
the label of the cartridge should contain a
list of the suitable uses for that item, as well
as the materials to which it will adhere.
Oil-based caulks are generally effective
for one to three years. They should be
used only in cracks and joints that have
no movement and that are accessible for
recaulking. Oil-based caulks become hard
and brittle. They are characterized by low
movement capabilities.
Latex caulks are effective for filling gaps in
baseboard and trim, as well as for caulking
needs around the window frame. They are
easily applied and clean up with water. They
are also paintable. They harden over time
and are not flexible.
Vinyl latex caulks, which are usually effec-
tive for five years, are most effective on small
cracks in baseboards and little gaps around
windows. They are not effective in wet areas,
such as bathrooms or kitchens. Features
include water cleanup and ease of application.
Vinyl latex is non-flammable and paintable
but not very flexible. It hardens over time.
Acrylic latex caulk is a general-purpose
caulk—more flexible than vinyl latex caulks.
It is water-based, easy to apply, non-flamma-
ble and cleans with water. It adheres to most
surfaces—best on wood and masonry—and
it can be painted shortly after application. It
is available in pigments that allow it to
match brick and tile, among other surfaces.
It remains effective for 10 to 15 years.
However, it is not recommended for an area
that is subject to excessive water collection.
It is flexible and it maintains that flexibility
over time.
Siliconized acrylic latex caulk should not
be confused with pure silicone caulks. It is a
good, all-purpose caulk for most interior and
exterior applications. This medium-perform-
ance, water-based caulk can withstand
greater movement than acrylic latex. The sil-
icone additives improve water resistance. It
can be used on the interior or exterior with
good adhesion, even to glass and ceramic
tile. It also comes in a variety of colours as
well as clear formulas. It applies easily, is
non-flammable, paintable, mildew-resistant
and cleans with water. It endures moderate
temperature changes, with a life expectancy
of about 25-35 years.
Asphaltic caulks are designed primarily
for exterior use, especially for asphalt drive-
ways (loose or damaged shingles, flashings,
etc.). They have poor flexibility and low
movement capabilities. They are best used
in areas that do not get too warm or too
cold and in joints accessible for recaulking.
They also can be messy and stain wood,
clothing and substrates. Asphaltic caulks
must be cleaned with solvents.
Tub and tile caulk is a specialty perform-
ance caulk with added mildewcide to protect
against mildew growth in the areas (kitchen,
bathroom) where it is most likely to be used.
A silicone tub and tile caulk may give off a
strong odour and is more difficult to apply.
Some tub and tile caulks are more flexible
and crack-resistant. Adhesive formulas are
available to reset loose bathroom tiles and
repair grout as well as caulk around tubs.
Adhesive caulks are specialty all-pur-
pose caulks that combine a sealant and
adhesive in one. Polyvinyl acetate formu-
las offer stronger adhesive properties than
siliconized acrylic formulas. Adhesive
caulks are for interior and exterior use.
Water-based, they apply easily, are non-
flammable, clean up with water, and are
paintable and mildew resistant. They are
available in a variety of colours.
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
22
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
Solvent-based acrylics are good exterior
caulks that have a life expectancy of about
25 years. They also have a longer cure time
and odour. Some types must be heated
before application. These caulks are difficult
to apply and feature moderate movement
capability and poor low-temperature flexibil-
ity.
Silicone caulk is good for use around bath-
tubs and sinks. It is water resistant and pro-
vides excellent adhesion to smooth surfaces,
such as metal, glass and tile, but it does not
adhere to masonry. Paint will also not stick
to it and it is difficult to apply. Smears must
be cleaned up with paint thinner.
There are specialty caulks formulated for
specialty applications or for consumers who
do not want to deal with caulking guns.
Rope caulk comes in a roll and can be
pressed into place by hand. Although tradi-
tionally messy, newer roll caulks have a
liner to prevent the caulk from sticking to
itself or to customers’ fingers during instal-
lation. Combination caulk/trim combines a
siliconized caulk with a plastic trim cover-
ing. The consumer enjoys a no-mess instal-
lation and has a mildew-resistant, washable
moulding around the sink or tub areas.
Urethane caulk is elastic, which makes it
good for gaps of 1/4" or more or when join-
ing dissimilar materials.
Butyl rubber sealants are solvent-based,
with a life expectancy of two to 10 years.
Stringy, difficult to apply and slow curing,
they are most efficient when applied to open-
ings between similar surfaces. Not recom-
mended for openings wider or deeper than
1/4" or in 90° corners. Butyl rubber is good for
sealing out water in lap joints. It is also a good
choice for metals and masonry, as well as out-
side for chimneys and gutters. These sealants
offer low to moderate movement capabilities.
Polysulfides are exterior high-performance
sealants available in one- and two-part for-
mulations with a life expectancy of 25 to 50
years. The one-part is easier to use but is not
recommended for joints greater than 3/4"
wide or 3/8" deep. It can be used in high-
movement joints. Objectionable odor, poor
low-temperature applicability and low
shrinkage is tempered by good adhesion. It
should be used on building joints as well as
highway and runway joints. Polysulfides
usually require a primer.
Silicone sealants are the most weather-
resistant and elastic of all sealants. They are
usually a higher-ticket purchase than other
caulks and sealants, but compared to other,
less-performing products the pricing has nar-
rowed. Silicones accommodate greater joint
movement over a wider temperature span
(-50° C to 200° C) than any other class of
materials. Lifetime warranties of durability
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
23
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
SPECIFIC PROPERTYSILICONIZED
ACRYLICSEALANTS
ACRYLICSEALANTS
LATEX ORVINYL
CAULKS
SILICONERUBBER
SEALANTS
SOLVENT-BASEDBUTYL RUBBER
CAULKS
SOLVENT-BASED“CLEAR” CAULKS
Superior adhesion to wide range ofbuilding materials when dry.
Superior adhesion to wide range ofbuilding materials when wet.
Maintains pliability over time.
Paintable with latex and oil-based paints.
Flexible at low temperatures.
Easy to apply–does not stick to fingersand clothes.
Easy to clean up.
Low odour.
Can be applied at temperatures below freezing.
Flammable.
Fast setting–capable of being sprayed withwater immediately after application.
Good water resistance.
PERFORMANCE GUIDE TO CAULKS & SEALANTS
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are available from some manufacturers.
Overall, silicone sealants have excellent
adhesion properties and will bond to woods,
metal, ceramic tiles and glass, although
some surfaces must be primed. Many sili-
cones may be used for both interior and
exterior applications and do not crack or
become brittle with aging.
Most silicones are moisture-resistant and
can be used in high-moisture areas such as
basements. In fact, silicone rubber sealants
are recommended for roofs and around
pools, where they will be continually
immersed in water. Bathroom silicones have
a mildew-resistant additive. However, most
silicones are not paintable and must be
cleaned up with solvents. Some consumers
also object to silicone’s odour, though newer
formulas are less offensive. Check labels and
manufacturer literature for proper usage of
the silicone sealants you sell.
Water-based elastomeric sealant provides
almost the same properties (though not the
wide temperature range) as silicone and at a
lower price. It also offers better adhesion to
wood and porous materials. Easily painted
and cleaned up with water, this type of
sealant has a life expectancy of 25-50 years.
These sealants do take longer to cure because
the water needs to evaporate—and they
should not be applied during wet weather
because they might wash away. They also
should not be applied during cold weather
or else they will freeze.
Polyurethane foam is used for a variety of
jobs, most often around electrical outputs,
pipe penetrations and large voids or open-
ings. It expands to fill gaps, holes and voids
and is good for insulation purposes. It is
easy to apply, cures quickly, is paintable and
offers good adhesion.
A caulk remover can be used for indoor or
outdoor removal of old caulk. It quickly soft-
ens the caulk and is not harmful to surfaces.
Caulk GunsAfter finding the right caulk for the job,
the second concern is how to apply it.
People buying caulk for small projects, such
as lying a bead of caulk around a window or
tub might consider a toothpaste tube-like
applicator that holds 2 oz. to 6 oz. When
finished with the project, the squeezable
caulk tube can be capped for future use or
thrown away.
D-i-yers and professionals generally buy
the more common 10-oz. tubes that are used
with a gun. Some caulk guns are designed
with a cartridge cradle, while others have
parallel frames that lay flat in toolboxes.
Ratchet guns are less expensive, but are
more difficult to use. To stop caulk flow on
the ratchet gun, the user must turn the pis-
ton so the ratchet disengages.
Smooth rod guns are more expensive, but
are easier to use than ratchet guns. With a
smooth rod gun, the user simply disengages
a quick-release thumb plate to stop the flow
of caulk. Drip-free smooth rod caulking guns
allow the piston to back up slightly after
each squeeze so the user does not have to
turn the piston or depress a lever to stop the
flow of caulk. Some models use an automat-
ic vacuum action to draw any unused caulk
back into the nose of the tube.
For large building projects, some profes-
sionals prefer bulk-loaded guns that are
filled from large containers with a pneumat-
ic system. To relieve the stress of pulling a
trigger for long periods, some professionals
use pneumatic guns that work with a small
compressor.
Power guns that operate with a rechargeable
battery pack are becoming popular with pros
and serious d-i-yers. For more information, see
(Weatherproofing Your Home).
GLAZING MATERIALS
GLASSArchitectural glass is useful as glazing for
windows, doors, shower enclosures and
other household installations.
The National Building Code of Canada,
which in turn is generally adopted by the
provinces and other local jurisdictions,
identifies a number of CAN/CGSB
(Candaian General Standards Board) stan-
dards to which glass must conform.
These standards were prepared to reduce
or eliminate risk of injury associated with
walking, running or falling through or
against glazing materials. The standard spec-
ifies the following locations as “hazardous”:
o 1. Storm doors
o 2. Interior and exterior doors
o 3. Shower and bathtub doors and enclo-
sures
o 4. Certain glazed panels (in “hazardous”
locations)
o 5. Sliding or patio-type doors
All glazing materials manufactured for
use in these locations must comply with
the appropriate CAN/CGSB standard.
Common safety glazing materials include:
Tempered glass—crumbles into small
pieces if broken and leaves no jagged or
sharp edges. Must be ordered to size.
Laminated glass—plastic that is bonded
between two sheets of standard glass. Plastic
sheet retards shattering. Its finished thick-
ness is 1/4”, which may be too thick for
most household replacement situations.
Wire-reinforced glass—wire mesh
embedded in standard glass reduces the
chances of shattering (also 1/4” thick).
Standard glass—can be sold for purposes
not covered by the safety standard. It comes
in three grades: AA for highest-grade work, A
for superior glazing quality, and B for gener-
al purposes. A non-reflective glass can be
sold for decorative framing.
Approved rigid plastics, including acrylicand polycarbonate—easy to handle and can
be cut to size. Is less susceptible to breakage
than glass products and will fall into large
pieces with curved edges if it does break.
May scratch easily.
Scratches in plastics can be removed by
buffing with automotive paste wax contain-
ing no rubbing compound and can be mini-
mized if cleaned with plastic cleaner and
polish products.
Acrylic safety glazing is commonly used
to replace broken glass in windows and
doors. Acrylic plastic sheets are manufac-
tured in widths from 18" to 48" and
lengths up to 96".
When replacing single-strength glass with
acrylic safety glazing, recommend .100"
sheet thickness; when replacing double-
strength glass, recommend .125" thickness.
Composition Glass—Composition glass
is imbedded with a transparent layer of
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
24
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
metal oxide particles; it cuts heating and
cooling costs. The metal layer causes the
glass to release heat half as fast as conven-
tional glass, thus keeping more heat in
during the winter and out during the
summer. Composition glass is used mostly
in double-paned windows; it usually
increases the cost of the windows.
Cutting ToolsHand-held glasscutters for use on standard
(non-safety) glass have an alloy steel wheel at
one end to score the glass, and a ball knob or
notched second end to break the glass along
the score line. A table model with rotating
base cuts circles as well as straight cuts.
Similar tools are used for cutting laminated
and wire-reinforced safety glass. However,
laminated glass, often used in shower doors,
should be cut with a wheel no larger than
.170”. A larger wheel will roll over the “val-
leys” in the pattern usually found on laminat-
ed glass and not give a continuous score. In
addition, the glass must be scored on both
sides since it is actually two pieces of glass.
The scores must align perfectly.
Wire-reinforced safety glass needs a score
only on one side. But after breaking, the
wire mesh must be cut just as the plastic
sheet must be cut on laminated glass.
Other glass-cutting tools include glass cut-
ters with interchangeable cutting wheels so
that glass of various thicknesses and textures
can be cut; cutting machines designed for
cutting ceramic tiles; and glass cutters that
dispense a fine bead of oil to ease glass scor-
ing. There are also point drivers especially
designed for picture framing and other glaz-
ing needs. Special glass pliers help grip the
glass for clean breaks.
Rigid plastics can be easily cut with special
plastic-cutting tools available from a number
of manufacturers.
LADDERS
The three basic types of ladders are
straight (extension), step and step/exten-sion. Stepladders include stepstools and plat-
form ladders, generally for home or light
commercial use. Multi-purpose ladders are
also available that can be used as scaffolding
and for other applications.
Quality classifications of step/extension
ladders include consumer (household), com-mercial (mechanic) and industrial grades.
Ladder rungs are either flat, round or “D”
shaped. Stepladders use channels for flat
steps. “D” rungs are preferred for step/exten-
sion and straight ladders.
Standards established by CSA International
(CSA) and required for ladder identification
are:
Type I, industrial duty. For tradesmen,
construction, maintenance and industrial.
Type II, commercial duty. For handymen,
light maintenance, light mechanics.
Type III, light duty for household use.
All ladders should bear labels with ratings,
sizes and maximum standing heights.
Customers should be instructed on recom-
mended use.
Suggesting a LadderThere are four major points to consider
when advising a customer about a ladder
purchase. First is the kind of activity
involved. Second is the demands of the
application. Third is the height the ladder
must reach so the climber may work from
a safe position. The last is basic material
from which the ladder is made.
In most cases, the intended activity will
make the choice obvious. For example, a
stepladder would be the choice to paint
interior walls and ceilings, while an exten-
sion ladder usually is needed to paint out-
side. If the job involves more effort than
usual, or will require more time on the lad-
der, try to sell up (a platform ladder instead
of a stepladder, for instance).
All ladders are designed to hold a cer-
tain weight. Therefore, ladders are
matched or “job-rated” to the physical
demands of the application. For instance,
a ladder used daily on a construction site
obviously should have a sturdier construc-
tion than the ladder used a few times a
year around the house.
The most important factor is the rated
load capacity (i.e., the aggregate working
weight of the user, his clothing and his
tools). For that reason, the duty rating is
described in terms of pounds.
Every ladder’s duty rating is color-coded.
A label in the appropriate color is promi-
nently displayed on the side rail. Look for
the proper duty ratings to match the high-
est level of use.
The height of the maximum safe work-
ing position for the ladder must also be
considered. Stepladders should be high
enough for the user not to have to stand
above the second step from the top. (The
first step from the top carries a label
warning the user not to stand there.) On
extension ladders, the user should stand
no more than four rungs from the top.
The base of the ladder should be one-
fourth the distance from the top support
of the ladder to its bottom support.
Ladder MaterialThe most common—and generally the
most available—materials for ladders are
wood, aluminum and fiberglass.
Wood ladders are non-conductive when
clean and dry. They also offer a natural,
firm grip for the worker’s feet and hands.
However, wood ladders are also heavy. A
pleasing traditional look, wide availability
and outstanding economy are among
wood ladders’ strongest attributes.
Wood ladders should be treated with two
coats of clear penetrating sealer or varnish.
However, opaque sealers should never be used
on wood ladders because they hide cracks or
other defects. Hinges and other moving hard-
ware should be lubricated periodically; if the
metal is not rustproof, however, it should be
treated with clear varnish or other rustproof-
ing material.
Aluminum ladders’ strongest advantage is
that they are lightweight, provide excellent
strength and offer reliable performance.
Aluminum ladders are corrosion-resistant and
require little if any maintenance. Non-rust-
proof metal ladders should be varnished peri-
odically. They conduct electricity, however, so
they should never be used when working
near energized electrical lines.
Fiberglass ladders offer a favorable blend
of the more desirable qualities of wood and
aluminum. It’s non-conductive (like dry,
clean wood) but made of sturdy modern
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
25
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
materials (like aluminum). Fiberglass ladders
should be recommended for a customer
who is planning to use them regularly and
in varying circumstances.
Ladder AccessoriesThere are a number of accessories
designed for use with the different types
of ladders. These accessories increase the
safety, usefulness and versatility of ladders
and include:
Extension ladder stabilizers make exten-
sion ladders safer to use. Most models pro-
vide a wider or more stable base and pro-
tective covers to protect the work surface.
Ladder cinches can be used to hold an
extension ladder tight against the work
surface.
Levelers can be attached to the leg of a lad-
der to allow it to stand on uneven surfaces.
Accessories like paint can hooks and traysprovide a convenient place for paint or tools.
Ladder jacks convert a pair of extension
ladders into a working platform that
reduces the number of times ladders must
be moved.
Specialty accessories like cable and “V”
hooks make it possible to rest an exten-
sion ladder against a wire or a pole.
Accessories for stepladders include mul-
tiple pocket tool holders and caddies for
added convenience. Specialty trays hold
paint cans, brushes, rollers and tools.
Paint can hooks attach to the ladder and
provide a secure place for paint cans.
Specialty accessories like conduit holders
can be used to hold such things as con-
duit, fluorescent light bulbs or pipe.
P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G
26
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
LADDER SAFETY TIPS
Ladder users should learn the proper meth-ods for working with a ladder. Spendingtime learning how to use the ladder canpay off in greater security and conven-ience, extend ladder life and shorten thetime required for the job.
• Don’t use or repair a bent or damagedladder.
• Don’t test a ladder by jumping on it.
• Don’t use a ladder on slippery surfacesor uneven ground.
• Don’t place ladder feet on power cordsor come in contact with electrical currentor power lines.
• Don’t climb down a ladder with yourback to the ladder or carrying a load inyour arms.
• Don’t over-reach, lean to one side orstand on one foot.
• Don’t hurry or skip steps when gettingon or off the ladder.
• Don’t try to move a ladder while on it orby bouncing or “walking” the ladder.
• Don’t leave a ladder unattended.
• Don’t position the ladder where it blocksfoot traffic or where it could be bumpedby a door.
• Don’t place the ladder on boxes, chairs,furniture or other movable objects to tryto climb higher.
CANADIAN IMPERIAL AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS
27
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
Canadians generally use amixture of measurement units.
Liquid volumes are typicallybased on the metric (SI) sys-tem. Temperatures and dis-tances are commonly specifiedusing metric terminology.Weights, depending on thetype of product, use either themetric or Canadian Imperialsystem. Lengths and dimen-sions of construction products,particularly for residential use,are generally in CanadianImperial measurements. Andmany of the products we use
are manufactured in U.S.measurements.
Canadian building codes arewritten using metric units. Butthe construction trades, partic-ularly those in residential con-struction, typically use theCanadian Imperial system.This mixture of measurementsystems frequently results inmany product manufacturersproviding information usingboth systems. Unfortunately,the approaches used in pre-senting the “converted” meas-urements are not consistent.
Some information is based on“exact” conversion measure-ments, whereas other informa-tion is based on “rounded”measurements.
From your perspective and incommunicating with your cus-tomer, it is important to recog-nize that in some instances theexact conversion is necessaryand in other instances a more“rounded” conversion isappropriate.
CONVERSION FACTORS
1 inch (in.) = 25.4 mm 32 fluid ounces - US (oz.) = 1 US qt.
1 foot (ft.) = 0.3048 m 40 fluid ounces - Canadian (oz.) = 1 Canadian qt.
1 yard (yd.) = 0.9144 m
1 mile (mi.) = 1.609 km 1 fluid ounce - US (oz.) = 29.6 mL
1 fluid ounce - Canadian (oz.) = 22.8 mL
1 ounce - avoirdupois (oz.) = 28.35 g 1 cup - US (cup) = 236mL
1 pound - avoirdupois (lb.) = 0.454 kg 1 cup - Canadian (cup) = 227mL
1 quart - US (qt) = 0.946 L
1 pound per square inch (psi) = 6.895 kN/m2 1 quart - Canadian (qt) = 1.136 L
1 pound per square foot (psf) = 0.04788 kPa 1 gallon - US (gal.) = 3.785 L
1 gallon - Canadian (gal.) = 4.546 L
Celsius temperature = (Fahrenheit temperature - 32) / 1.8
SOME TYPICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR HARDWARE AND FASTENER PRODUCTS(“rounded” conversions)
Length Length Length Length Weight
in. mm in. mm in. m ft. m lbs kg1/32 0.8 1
3/8 35 48 1.2 7.5 2.3 1 0.45
1/8 3.2 1
1/2 38 60 1.5 10 3.0 10 4.5
1/4 6.4 2 51 72 1.8 12 3.7 50 22.7
3/8 9.5 4 102 84 2.1 18 5.5 100 45.4
1/2 12.7 12 305 90 2.3 25 7.6 750 340
5/8 15.9 18 457 120 3.0 50 15.2 1250 567
3/4 19.1 24 610 156 4.0 75 22.9 1900 862
7/8 22.2 30 762 216 5.5 100 30.5 2650 1202
1 25.4 36 914 312 7.9 5000 2268
A C K N O W L E D G E M E N T S
28
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
� The course was first developed by the North American RetailHardware Association (NRHA) and the Home Center Institute (HCI)under the direction of a project coordinator and a number ofauthors. Several U.S. based companies provided industry specificinformation.
This second Canadian Edition of the ACHR is based on NRHA/HCI’s14th Edition. It has been extensively modified and rewritten withthe help of Carl R. Wilson & Associates Ltd. (CRWAL) so as toreflect Canadian products and construction practices. We alsoacknowledge the many Canadian organizations and companiesthat provided information for this Canadian edition of theAdvanced Course in Hardware Retailing (ACHR) and the BuildingMaterial Product Knowledge Course (BMPK).
Because local codes and regulations vary greatly, you are remindedto check with local experts and authorities on which codes,regulations and practices apply in your area.
Copyright© 2004 by NRHA. All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, orany system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, withoutprior written permission of the publisher.
Though the information in this course is intended to beaccurate and useful, the authors, editors, publishers,CRHA and CRWAL and their directors, officers, agentsand employees will not be liable for any damage whatso-ever that might occur from any use of this material.