THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Mary FitzpatrickTim Bewer

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z .................. 358Transport ......................... 369Health ............................... 380Language ......................... 388Index ................................. 399Map Legend ..................... 407

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

As long as you stay up-to-date with your vaccinations and take basic preventive measures, you’re unlikely to succumb to most of the health hazards covered in his chapter. While Tanzania

s an impressive selection ropical diseases on o er, more likely you’ll get a

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tempthe Afrsearch Fowww.amref.orgResponder (wwresponder.com). Sefurther details.

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Acetaminophen (paracmol) or aspirin

Acetazolamide (Diamofor altitude sickness (prscription only)

Adhesive or paper ta Antibacterial ointm

(eg Bactroban) for cabrasions (prescri

Antibiotics eg (Ciproxin) or n(Utinor)

Antidialopera

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PAGE

42

PAGE

357

p117Tanzania

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p201Central Tanzania

p68Archipelago

p279Tanzania

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p146Tanzania

p211Lake Victoria

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

RR

R

Mt KilimanjaroMt Meru

UsambaraMountains

LushotoTanga

Pangani

Marangu

StoneTown

Arusha

Dar es Salaam

#÷

#÷

#•

SerengetiNational

Park

TarangireNationalPark

LakeManyaraNational

Park

#•#÷

NgorongoroCrater

LakeNatron

INDIANOCEAN

KENYA

É

É É

É

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É

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ZanzibarÉ

ÉÉ

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

Two WeeksNorthern Circuit & Zanzibar

This route combines wildlife watching with beaches and the alluring ‘Spice Islands’, with the chance for detours in between. It’s a heavily travelled route, with plenty of accommodation and dining choices at all stops.

Starting at Arusha, explore one or two of the northern parks. Good wildlife-watching combinations include Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater (with a Lake Natron detour) or Ngorongoro plus Lake Manyara National Park and Tarangire National Park. Alternatively, go trekking in the north on Mt Meru or Mt Kili-manjaro, and do some hiking and cultural interaction around Arusha or in Marangu.

Next, head southeast towards the coast. Detour to Lushoto and the Usambara Moun-tains for hiking and a taste of village life. Continue to Dar es Salaam and catch the ferry or plane to Zanzibar. Fly directly from Arusha to Zanzibar, or travel from the Usambaras to Tanga and the Pangani beaches, from where you can take a boat to Zanzibar.

Once on Zanzibar, explore Stone Town before relaxing on the beaches along the east coast or in the north.

19

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

KENYA

RWANDA

DEMOCRATICREPUBLIC OFTHE CONGO

MALAWIZAMBIA

BURUNDI

Iringa

Kisolanza

Mufindi

MatemaTukuyu

Kipili

Arusha

Mbeya

Sumbawanga

Kigoma

Mwanza

Dar esSalaamMikumi

NationalPark

#÷UdzungwaMountains

National Park

RuahaNational

Park

KataviNationalPark

Mahale MountainsNational Park

GombeNationalPark

SerengetiNational

Park

Zanzibar

Mafia

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

LakeVictoria

LakeTanganyika

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•

One MonthThe Southern Highlands & Western Tanzania

Heading southwest from Dar es Salaam, you’ll quickly fi nd yourself in the scenic Southern Highlands. A good fi rst stop for a night or two en route to the highlands is Mikumi National Park, with its easily spotted wildlife.

From Mikumi, it’s a straightforward detour to Udzungwa Mountains National Park, where backpackers and adventure travellers can enjoy several days hiking up the steep, moist, lushly vegetated slopes. Alternatively, continue from Mikumi straight on to Iringa, which makes a relaxing base. Once in Iringa, a two- or three-night detour to Ruaha National Park is easily arranged and well worth the eff ort.

From Iringa, it’s a straight shot down the highway to Mbeya, with stops en route at the lovely Kisolanza, just off the main highway, or at scenic Mufi ndi, with its tea plantations. Both merit at least several days for relaxing and exploring.

While Mbeya town is not as amenable as Iringa, there is plenty to do in the surrounding area, including hiking around Tukuyu or canoeing, exploring and hiking around Matema, with its picturesque beach.

Taking your time, and exploring the various detours en route, it would be easy enough to spend the fi rst three weeks of your itinerary up to this point. With the remaining time, you could return the way you came, with time left over at the end for a short stay on Zanzibar or Mafi a islands.

If you’ve kept a brisker pace, omitting detours, you should have time to continue north-west from Mbeya via Sumbawanga to Katavi National Park. This park deserves at least three days, especially in the dry season, when wildlife watching is at its best, although even a day trip in season can be very rewarding. Double back, and down the escarpment to Lake Tanganyika at Kipili for several days relaxing before taking the MV Liemba to Mahale Mountains National Park and the chimpanzees, or on to Kigoma. Kigoma is an ame-nable stop for several days, and Gombe National Park is close by for an overnight. From Kigoma, take the train, bus or fl y back to Dar es Salaam. Alternatively (and with more than one month), continue overland from Kigoma to Mwanza and Lake Victoria, from where you could proceed into the Serengeti and on to Arusha.

20

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

Two WeeksNortheastern Tanzania

First week: after several days in Dar es Salaam, including a visit to historical Bagamoyo, travel northwards to explore the Pangani area with its beaches and long history, and to enjoy Tanga, with its amenable ambience and excur-sions. A good detour en route is to Saadani National Park, with its beach and

its wildlife. Second week: buses leave Tanga daily for Lushoto and the western Usambaras. Bota-

nists and birders can detour en route to Amani Nature Reserve in the Eastern Usam-baras, with its cool forest walks and traditional medicinal display. In the rains, the road up to Amani becomes muddy, but the symphony of birds and insects in the surrounding forest is unbeatable.

After exploring the Usambaras (plan on at least four to fi ve days) continue north and fl y out of Kilimanjaro airport, or return to Dar es Salaam. If time permits en route north, you could stop at Mkomazi National Park. While you likely won’t see Mkomazi’s rhinos, the park is a complete topographical contrast to the lushness of the Usambaras, and a reward-ing stop, especially for birding. Another possible detour is to the Pare Mountains, for more hiking and getting to know local Pare culture.

KENYA

Lushoto

Tanga

Pangani

Bagamoyo

Dar es Salaam

KilimanjaroInternational

Airport

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SaadaniNational

Park

AmaniNature

Reserve

MkomaziNational Park

#÷

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21

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

Lindi

Mikindani

Kilwa Masoko

KilwaKivinje

Mtwara

Dar esSalaam

SelousGame

Reserve

#•

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Mafia

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One WeekSelous & Mafi a

This itinerary is suited for those wanting to get a quick glimpse of Tanzania’s wildlife and beaches away from the standard northern circuit–Zanzibar combi-nation described on p19.

Starting in Dar es Salaam, spend a couple of days enjoying the city’s restau-rants and craft shopping, perhaps together with a museum visit or a cultural tourism tour.

There are daily bus connections on to Selous Game Reserve, but it’s a rough ride. There’s also a train and there are daily fl ights. Once in the Selous, spend several days enjoying the lodges, the boat safaris, the wildlife and the amazing night sounds, espe-cially hippos grunting in the Rufi ji River.

From the Selous, there are daily fl ight connections on to Mafi a island. Spend the remaining few days of your stay here in one of the lodges, diving and snorkelling, or sailing to some of the smaller islands to get a glimpse into the archipelago’s Swahili culture and long history before fl ying back to Dar es Salaam. Backpackers with more time could continue from Selous down the coast to Kilwa, Lindi, Mikindani and Mtwara.

22

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s top recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first.

DAR ES SALAAM . . . .44AROUND DAR ES SALAAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Pugu Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . 63Northern Beaches . . . . . . 64Southern Beaches . . . . . . 65

ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . .68ZANZIBAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Zanzibar Town . . . . . . . . . . 70AROUND ZANZIBAR . . . . 92Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Jozani Forest . . . . . . . . . . . 104Menai Bay & Unguja Ukuu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . 105PEMBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Chake Chake . . . . . . . . . . . 110Southern Pemba . . . . . . . 112Northern Pemba . . . . . . . . 114

NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . 117Bagamoyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Saadani National Park . . . 122Pangani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Tanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Around Tanga . . . . . . . . . . 132Muheza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Korogwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133USAMBARA MOUNTAINS . . . . . . . . . . . 133Amani Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Lushoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Around Lushoto . . . . . . . . 139PARE MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 141Same . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Mbaga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Mwanga & Around . . . . . . 143Usangi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Mkomazi National Park . . . . . . . . . . 144

NORTHERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . 146Moshi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Machame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Marangu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Mt Kilimanjaro National Park . . . . . . . . . . 156Trekking Mt Kilimanjaro . . . . . . . . . 157West Kilimanjaro . . . . . . . 160Arusha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Arusha National Park . . . . . . . . . . 176Trekking Mt Meru . . . . . . . 179Tarangire National Park . . . . . . . . . . 181Lake Manyara National Park . . . . . . . . . . 183Lake Natron. . . . . . . . . . . . 186Karatu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Ngorongoro Conservation Area . . . . . . 189Lake Eyasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Serengeti National Park . . . . . . . . . . 195

CENTRAL TANZANIA . . . . . . . . . 201Dodoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Babati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206Mt Hanang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Kondoa Rock-Art Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Singida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209

LAKE VICTORIA . . . . 211Musoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Mwanza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Around Mwanza . . . . . . . . 220Rubondo Island National Park . . . . . . . . . . 222Biharamulo . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Bukoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

WESTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . .228Tabora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Kigoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Ujiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Gombe National Park . . . 236Mahale Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 238Uvinza. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Mpanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Katavi National Park . . . . 242Sumbawanga . . . . . . . . . . 244

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .246Morogoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Mikumi National Park . . . 251Mikumi Town . . . . . . . . . . . 253

Udzungwa Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 254Iringa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Around Iringa . . . . . . . . . . 260Ruaha National Park . . . . 261Makambako . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Njombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Kitulo National Park . . . . 265Mbeya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Around Mbeya. . . . . . . . . . 270Tukuyu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Lake Nyasa . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Mbinga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Songea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Tunduru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . .279Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Selous Game Reserve . . . 286Kilwa Masoko . . . . . . . . . . 290Around Kilwa Masoko . . . 292Lindi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295Mtwara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Mikindani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park . . . . 302Makonde Plateau & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – June 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 282 9© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Mary Fitzpatrick Coordinating Author, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar Archipelago, Southeastern Tanza-nia, Northeastern Tanzania, Southern Highlands Mary’s fi rst foray into Tanzania was almost two decades ago, when she travelled up from Mozambique to climb Mt Kilimanjaro. Since then – lured by the mountains, the beaches, the people and the culture – she has returned countless times, has studied Swahili, and has visited (almost) every inch of the country. Highlights researching for this edi-

tion included getting to spend so much time along the coast, and exploring Tanzania’s far south. A travel writer for over 15 years, Mary has authored numerous Lonely Planet titles, including Tanza-nia and East Africa. She is currently based in Tanzania.

Tim Bewer Northern Tanzania, Central Tanzania, Lake Victoria, Western Tanzania, Pemba Is-land While growing up, Tim didn’t travel much except for the obligatory pilgrim-age to Disney World and an annual summer week at the lake. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited nearly 80 countries. After university he worked as a legislative assistant before quitting capitol life to back-pack around West Africa. During this trip the idea of becoming a travel writer/

photographer was hatched, and he’s been at it ever since, returning to Africa eight times. When he isn’t shouldering a backpack somewhere for work or pleasure he lives in Khon Kaen, Thailand, where he runs the Isan Explorer (www.isanexplorer.com) tour company.

Contributing Author David Lukas wrote the Wildife & Habitat chapter. David is a freelance naturalist who lives next to Yosemite National Park in California. He writes extensively about the world’s wildlife, and has contributed wildlife chapters for eight Africa Lonely Planet guides, ranging from Ethiopia to South Africa. He also wrote A Year of Watching Wildlife, which covers the top places in the world to view wildlife.

Read more about Mary at:lonelyplanet.com/members/maryf

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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