paella · 2017. 9. 8. · paella pan, add the garlic and fry with the mushrooms. after the liquid...

ALBERTO HERRAIZ

PAELLA

Blad new concept.LG08.indd 1 04/03/2011 10:31

FOREWORD We’ve all eaten a paella at least once, and we believe that we know this dish very well, since it’s so much part of our daily lives. However, it still has many secrets to be revealed. The most essential part of the paella culture is its festive element. The expression ir de paella, ‘to go pael-la-eating’ has passed into the language as a syn-onym for having a celebration. It literally means: ‘Going to the special place to make a paella’. Peo-ple usually make their paellas in their country cottage at the weekend on an open-air barbecue specially designed for paella, called a paellero. The men take charge of everything, from making the fire to cooking. The aim is good living, along with relaxed entertaining, and paella is the head-of-the-family’s weekend offering of a Sunday dish in the best sense of the term. Cooking paella is steeped in tradition. Although the paellero offici-ates when it is cooked outside the house, when it is cooked inside, it is cooked by a woman – the paellera – who works in the kitchen.

In this book about paella, I am hoping to give you a lot more than merely a collection of recipes. My guiding principle has been that I illustrate paella with practical applications – the recipes. Italian risotto obeys the same rules, in that it also has a base technique with infinite variations.

What is important for me, as a cook, is to simplify the techniques of paella-making without chang-ing its nature or taking the heart out of it. It is to make cooking paella accessible to everyone so that they can succeed wherever they are. I do not want to betray the traditional identity of the paella, but I am bringing it up-to-date and help-ing it evolve. In my view, amateur cooks make too much of the idea of an ‘authentic recipe’. But in times gone by, there weren’t any recipes! They were transmitted orally, and by following actions and examples.

INTRODUCTION 003

Lobster Paella, page 096

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this, dip a rag in white spirit vinegar and rub it over the metal to remove the protective coating applied in the factory. Fill the pan with soapy water, add a good handful of coarse salt and let it boil for five minutes. Then, empty and rinse the pan, dry with a clean cloth, then add a few drops of olive oil and spread them over the surface with a cloth.

ENAMELLED PAELLA PANThis is just as traditional as the one above and much easier to maintain. However, it is much more prone to damage because the enamel coat-ing can flake off. It is not a long-lasting material, so it must be protected from impacts and careless handling. If the enamel has been damaged, oil should be spread over the chip after it has been washed. This type of pan can be used on all types of stove.

A variety of paella pans, showing pans made from stainless steel (top row, right and bottom row, middle), carbon steel (top row, left) and enamel (top row, middle).

INTRODUCTION 005

EQUIPMENT A FRYING PAN WITH TWO HANDLESThe paella was first of all a cooking utensil, then a method of preparing food that took its name from the utensil, in the same way as the tagine in Morocco or the tian in Provence, which have both given rise to many different recipes. The tradi-tional paella pan is a frying pan made of polished iron, round in shape, with low splayed-out sides, curved in slightly at the edge with two round handles opposite each other fixed to the edge by two rivets. In some regions, some paella pans have straight rather than curved sides, and the height varies. The metal used for the paella pan is always thin, because it must transmit the heat quickly, and the heat must also be capable of be-ing cut off as quickly as possible. Controlling the heat is one of the difficulties of using a paella pan. Its diameter depends on the number of people being served, and there are no one-person paella pans. Its base is not flat but slightly concave, with a hammered dimpled bottom that helps preserve the curve in the metal.

There are many types of paella pan: each has its advantages and disadvantages. Whatever you decide, don’t forget to choose one that will fit in your oven!

CARBON-STEEL PAELLA PAN This is the basic type, also known as black iron. Its advantages are that it is relatively cheap and gives the best results for the finished dish, and also the patina that it develops with use. This dark greenish-grey patina is caused by oxidization, encouraged by ingredients such as artichokes, Swiss chard, spinach or aubergines (eggplants). It gives rather a metallic taste that some people find strange, but connoisseurs of paella seek out this quality. However, the carbon-steel paella pan is liable to rust and it has to be looked after in order to keep it bright. A new pan has to be cleaned and seasoned before use. To do

The large pan has a nonstick coating, and the smaller pan is made from stainless steel.

A portable gas ring, suitable for cooking paellas outdoors

004 PAELLA


078 PAELLA ‘A BANDA’

079 EXTRA FINE PAELLA ‘A BANDA’

079 MOUNTAIN PAELLA ‘A BANDA’

080 BLACK RICE WITH CUTTLEFISH INK

081 MIXED PAELLA WITH CHORIZO

084 LOBSTER PAELLA

085 CRAYFISH PAELLA WITH VEGETABLES

085 COD PAELLA WITH SPRING GARLIC AND CAULIFLOWER

086 SPRING VEGETABLE PAELLA

087 MOREL MUSHROOM AND COD SKIN PAELLA

088 JAMON IBERICO AND SPRING VEGETABLE PAELLA

089 MONKFISH, SPINACH AND ARTICHOKE PAELLA

089 BONITO PAELLA WITH JAMON IBERICO

090 BLACK TRUFFLE PAELLA WITH A CRUST

093 WHITE TRUFFLE AND WILD ASPARAGUS PAELLA

094 MARSEILLE-ALICANTE ‘ALLER ET RETOUR’ PAELLA

094 TUNA, VEGETABLE, CHICKPEA AND RAISIN PAELLA

095 RED MULLET AND ROASTED PUMPKIN PAELLA

097 WHITE PAELLA WITH CHAMPAGNE

099 RABBIT PAELLA WITH SHERRY VINEGAR

PAELLAS COOKED ON THE STOVE

Pablo Picasso eating paella

2


Serves 4 Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 17 minutes

Cook this dish in a 50-cm (20-inch) paella pan over a gas stove

For the fumet:

(see page 041; you will need 1.1 litres/4½ cups after straining)

1.5 kg (3¼ lb) rock fish, with spines and heads

250 g (9 oz) small prawns (shrimp)

400 g (14 oz) sea crab, or other small crab

1 potato

1 leek

1 carrot

1 celery stalk

100 g (3½ oz) fennel

2 onions

2 cloves garlic

2 bay leaves

1 sprig rosemary

pepper

1 stem wild fennel

1 star anise pod

For the paella:

4 prawns (shrimp)

4 langoustines

100 ml (scant 1 cup) olive oil

1 nora chilli

1 garlic clove

100 g (3½ oz) squid, cleaned and cut into 1-cm (½-inch) dice

200 g (¾ cup) short-grain rice, pref-erably Bomba paella rice

1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced

1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika

1 pinch ground saffron

salt and pepper

ARROZ EN PAELLA ‘A BANDA’PAELLA ‘A BANDA’

PAELLAS COOKED ON THE STOVE 009

A paella a banda is made with a fumet, or stock, of fish and sea-food, which is strained after the fish or seafood has been cooked in it. The term a banda means ‘on the side’ because the ingredi-ents used to make the fumet are eaten separately while the rice is cooking. Sometimes the rice is even served without the banda, which is set aside, or only the rice is eaten and the banda left on the plate. The banda is usually less flavoursome than the rice be-cause its primary function is to release all its flavour into the rice.

Before starting the recipe, prepare the fumet according to the instructions on page 024 (Rock Fish Fumet). For this recipe you will need 600 ml (2½ cups) fumet, and the rest can be used in another recipe.

This paella is good served with alioli (see page 017).


5. Sprinkle the saffron all over the pan, sea-son it with salt, and spread the rice all over the pan. Set the timer to 17 minutes as soon as the liquid starts to boil.

6. After 5 minutes, lower the heat to half its current level; the rice should start to rise to the level of the liquid.

7. Taste the liquid and season with salt if nec-essary, remembering that the flavours will intensify as the liquid evaporates.

8. Put the paella in the oven. After 12 min-utes the paella will be ready. Take it out of the oven and let it stand for 3 minutes before serving.


ARROZ EN PAELLA ‘A BANDA’PAELLA ‘A BANDA’

1. Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/Gas Mark 5. Remove the heads and innards of the prawns (shrimp) and crayfish and put them to one side in a bowl. Remove the tails and set aside. Heat the garlic oil and ñora in a 50-cm (20-inch) paella pan, add the cuttlefish, prawns and crayfish innards, and cook with-out browning, stirring it regularly to avoid sticking. At the same time fry the prawn and crayfish tails.

2. Once they are almost cooked, prawns and crayfish can be removed served with the rest of the banda while your guests wait for the rice. When the liquid that was released by the shellfish has evaporated, push them aside to make an empty circle in the centre of the paella pan and pour in the diced tomato. Spread it out over the base of the paella pan and remove the ñora chilli.

3. Pound the ñora in a mortar (see page 014), break up with a knife, and add it to the paella pan. Add the rice and sauté it until the grains are transparent, but not browned.

4. Add the paprika and sauté it without allow-ing it to brown. When it is very hot, add the stock to prevent it from catching.

010 PAELLA


OUTRE RIZ NOIRE CON TROMPETAS DE LA MUERTE‘ULTRA-BLACK’ RICE WITH HORN-OF-PLENTY MUSHROOMS

PAELLA DE CONEJO CON VINAGRERABBIT PAELLA WITH SHERRY VINEGAR

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/Gas Mark 5. Heat the oil in the paella pan, add the garlic and fry with the mushrooms. After the liquid has evaporated, add the cuttlefish and the fry over a gentle heat. After the liquid from the fish has evaporated, move the fish to one side, place the rice in centre of the pan and fry until the grains become translucent, taking care that the rice doesn’t burn.

Pour the tomato sauce and the cuttlefish ink into the pan, stirring with a spatula, and simmer. Add the paprika and fry, taking care that it doesn’t burn. Pour in the very hot fish stock. Season with salt and spread the rice over the whole surface of the pan. Bring to a boil and set a timer for 17 minutes. Cook over very high heat. After 5 minutes, the rice should rise to the surface. Taste the stock and add salt if necessary, remembering that the flavours will intensify as the liquid evaporates.

Five minutes after it first came to the boil, spread the rice over the whole surface of the pan and put in the oven for the remaining 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 2 minutes before serving.

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/Gas Mark 5. Heat the oil in the paella pan, add the garlic and fry until golden. Add the rabbit pieces, fry until browned, then push them to the side of the pan. Add the onions to the centre and fry them. Add the rice, stir well and cook until the grains are translucent. Pour in the vinegar and stir to deglaze the pan, dissolving any sediment on the bottom of the pan. Pour in the tomato sauce and simmer for a few minutes, then add the paprika.

Pour in the stock and attractively arrange the snails in the pan. Add the powdered saffron. Bring to a boil and set a timer for 17 minutes. Cook over very high heat.

After 5 minutes, the rice should rise to the surface. Taste the stock and season salt if necessary, remembering that the flavours will intensify as the liquid evaporates. Put the pan in the oven. After 12 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Let the paella rest for about 3 minutes, then serve.


Use a 30-cm (12-inch) paella pan

100 ml (scant ½ cup) olive oil

2 cloves garlic, sliced

200 g (7 oz) horn-of-plenty mushrooms, cleaned

200 g (7 oz) cuttlefish, cleaned and cut into 1-cm (½-inch) dice

200 g (¾ cup) short-grain rice, preferably Bomba paella rice

200 ml (scant 1 cup) tomato sauce

40 ml (2¾ tablespoons) cuttlefish ink, or 2 sachets

½ tsp smoked sweet paprika

400 ml (1¾ cups) fish stock, hot

salt


Use a 30-cm (12-inch) paella pan

50 ml (3¼ tablespoons) garlic-flavoured oil (page 037)

1 garlic clove, sliced

300 g (12 oz) boned rabbit, cut into 30-g (1¼-oz) pieces

100 g (3½ oz) spring onions (scallions)

200 g (¾ cup) short-grain rice, preferably Bomba paella rice

50 ml (3¼ tablespoons) good-quality sherry vinegar

100 ml (scant ½ cup) tomato sauce

½ tsp smoked sweet paprika

400 ml (1¾ cups) rabbit stock, hot

200 g (7 oz) snails, purged and shelled

1 pinch powdered saffron

salt



ARROZ EN PAELLA CON LANGOSTAPAELLA WITH LOBSTER

Heat the oil in a paella pan and sauté the almonds, garlic cloves and chilli. When they are lightly browned, remove them and put them in a mortar. Season the lobsters with salt, add them to the pan with the squid and sauté until lightly browned on both sides. When they are half-cooked, remove them from the pan and set aside. Pound the garlic, almonds and chillies with the parsley and saffron in the mortar to obtain a smooth paste.

Add the tomatoes to the pan, stir well and cook gently over low heat. When they have thickened slightly, and the paprika and continue to cook. Add 1 litre (4 cups) water, bring to a boil, then add the rice. Set a timer for 17 minutes. Stir to distribute the rice evenly over the surface of the pan. Return the lobsters to the pan, cut sides down, distributing them evenly. Simmer over high heat. Taste the liquid and season with salt if necessary.

Remove a little of the cooking liquor and stir it into the almond and garlic paste. Add the paste to the pan and stir well. After 6 minutes, reduce the heat to medium. After another 5 minutes, re-duce the heat to low. Six minutes before the end of cooking, cover the pan with a piece of cooking foil. When the 17 minutes are up, remove from the heat and let stand for 2–4 minutes, covered, before serving.


Use a 50-cm (20-inch) stainless steel paella pan

100 ml (scant ½ cup) olive oil

6 blanched almonds

2 cloves garlic

1 nora chilli

2 x 500-g (1 lb 2-oz) lobsters, or 1 x 1-kg (2¼-lb) lobster, split in two legthways

200 g (7 oz) squid, cut into dice

1 pinch ground saffron

6 stalks flat-leaf parsley

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika

400 g (1¾ cups) short-grain rice, preferably Bomba paella rice

salt

PAELLAS COOKED ON THE BARBECUE 015

ARROZ EN PAELLA BLANCA CON SETAS DE OTONOWHITE PAELLA WITH AUTUMN MUSHROOMS

Wash the mushrooms gently in cold water. Dry them on kitchen paper. Check that all grit or sand has been removed and cut them into slices.

Heat the olive oil in a paella pan, add the garlic cloves and sauté until golden. Add the mushrooms and sauté for a few minutes. Move them to the side of the pan and continue to cook until the liq-uid evaporates and only the oil is left. Add the rosemary, sauté for a few minutes, them remove it. Add the paella rice and stir until it has a pearly sheen.

Pour in 1.2 litres (5 cups) water. Set a timer for 17 minutes. Stir the rice and mushrooms in the pan to distribute them evenly. Taste the liquid and season with salt if necessary. Bring to a boil. After 6 minutes, reduce the heat. When the 17 minutes are up, cover the pan with a dish towel or cooking foil and let rest for 3 minutes before serving.


Use a 60-cm (24-inch) stainless steel paella pan

100 ml (scant 1 cup) olive oil

3 garlic cloves

1 pinch smoked sweet paprika

2 sprigs rosemary

2 kg (4½ lb) mixed mushrooms, such as ceps, girolles or oyster mush-rooms

600 g (scant 3 cups) short-grain rice, preferably Bomba paella rice

salt


PAELLA

Paella is Spain’s best-loved dish, popular the world over and perfect to cook for friends. Paella is the definitive home-cooking manual from the ultimate expert, Alberto Herráiz, head chef of renowned paella restaurant Fogón in Paris. It shows how simple it can be to cook authentic paella at home, explaining the basics step by step and covering all the techniques, equipment and ingredients.

There are recipes for over 70 different varieties of paella, from the most basic to lesser-known region-al variations and specialities of Fogón, along with recipes for the stocks and fumets that form the basis of paella, and classic sauces to accompany it, such as alioli. Divided into chapters on paellas cooked on the stove, paellas cooked outdoors, paellas without rice and sweet paellas, the book shows the true versatility and originality of paella.

ALBERTO HERRAIZ

Alberto Herráiz was born in Castilla la Mancha, Spain, into a family of four generations of restaura-teurs. After running several restaurants in Spain, he moved to Paris in 1997 to open Fogón restau-rant, where he has perfected the art of paella, gain-ing a Michelin star in 2009.

Specifications:Binding: HardbackFormat: 270 x 180 mm (105⁄8 x 85⁄8 inches)Extent: 192ppNumber of images: c. 200Word count: 45,000ISBN: 9 780 7148 6082 4Publication: April 2011

Phaidon Press LimitedRegent’s WharfAll Saints StreetLondon N1 9PA

Phaidon Press Inc.180 Varick StreetNew York, NY 10014

www.phaidon.com

© 2010 Phaidon Press Limited

016 PAELLA

INTRODUCTION 005

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004 PAELLA

SWEET PAELLA

PAELLA COOKED ON THE STOVE 005

Pour 2 personnes Préparation : 25 minutes (fumet non compris) Cuisson : 17 minutes

l’arête entière d’un turbot de 30 cm de diamètre, avec la tête, sans les filets et sans les ouïes

50 cl de fumet de poisson (voir page xxx) préparé avec une partie des filets du turbot et non avec l’arête

2 oignons nouveaux

2 ciboules japonaises (ou ciboules chinoises, à acheter dans les magasins asiatiques)

25 g de queues de gros épinards (sans les feuilles)

50 cl d’huile d’agrumes (voir page xxx) ou, à défaut, d’huile d’olive

200 g de riz bomba ou de tout autre riz rond

1/2 cuil. à café de pimentón de la Vera (voir page xxx)

10 cl de mirin (saké doux pour la cuisine)

10 cl de vinaigre de riz

1 sachet de poudre d’anchois

1 citron vert

sel

ARROZ EN PAELLA BRUT DE RODABALLOPAELLA BRUT AU TURBOT

Cette recette ne nécessite que l’arête et la tête du turbot, qui doivent conserver un peu de chair. Les filets – ou du moins une partie des filets, le turbot étant de taille généreuse – seront utilisés pour faire le fumet. Vous ferez de même pour les feuilles d’épinards, car seuls les queues sont employés pour la garniture. Vous trouverez le mirin, les ciboules japonaises et la poudre d’anchois dans les magasins de produits asiatiques.

Pour une texture ultrafine, utiliser une paella de 40 cm de diamètre allant sur le feu et au four.

Faire tremper l’arête de turbot 30 minutes dans de l’eau bien froide afin d’éliminer toute trace de sang. L’égoutter et l’éponger soigneusement dans du papier absorbant.

Faire chauffer le fumet de turbot sans le faire bouillir. Préchauffer le four à 180 °C (th. 6). Émincer les oignons et le blanc des ciboules. Tailler en fines rondelles les queues d’épinards et le vert de ciboule ; les réserver.

Faire chauffer l’huile dans la paella, y faire revenir l’oignon et le blanc de ciboule sur feu doux sans leur laisser prendre couleur. Ajouter le mirin et le vinaigre, mélanger vivement et déglacer en raclant le fond de la paella avec une spatule. Laisser réduire presque à sec. Ajouter le riz et le nacrer jusqu’à ce que les grains soient translucides, sans les faire brûler. Ajouter le pimentón et le faire revenir en évitant de le faire brûler.

Verser le fumet bien chaud et bien répartir le riz sur toute la surface du plat. Ajouter la poudre d’anchois afin de rehausser le goût du bouillon, goûter et rectifier l’assaisonnement en sel (en tenant compte de l’évaporation qui concentrera toutes les saveurs). Parsemer de zeste de citron vert râpé (de préférence avec une râpe Microplane, voir page xxx). Programmer le minuteur sur 17 minutes. Laisser cuire sur feu très vif.

Au bout de 4 minutes, ajouter l’arête de turbot de façon que la tête et la queue touchent les bords, à mi-distance des poignées de la paella. Laisser cuire.

Au bout de 2 minutes, ajuster l’arête de turbot en la faisant bien adhérer au riz, car la cuisson peut l’avoir déplacée. Mettre la paella au four.

Quand le minuteur sonne, retirer la paella du four. La parsemer de ciboules et de queues d’épinard ciselées. Laisser reposer 2 minutes. Servir sur chaque assiette un morceau de l’arête du turbot.

Pour 2 personnes Préparation : 25 minutes (fond non compris) Cuisson : 17 minutes

300 g de lapin désossé

100 g d’oignons nouveaux

40 cl de fond de lapin (voir page xxx)

5 cl d’huile d’ail (voir page xxx) ou, à défaut, d’huile d’olive

1 gousse d’ail hachée

200 g de riz bomba ou de tout autre riz rond

5 cl de vinaigre de jerez de premier choix (appellation d’origine contrôlée)

100 g de sofrito de tomate (voir page xxx) ou, à défaut, de coulis de tomate

200 g d’escargots cuits, décoquillés et nettoyés

1 brin de romarin

½ cuil. à café de pimentón de la Vera (Voir page xxx)0,2 g de safran préparé et moulu (voir page xxx)

sel

ARROZ EN PAELLA DE CONEJO CON VINAGREPAELLA DE LAPIN AU VINAIGRE DE JEREZ

Pour une texture ultrafine, utiliser une paella de 40 cm de diamètre allant sur le feu et au four.

Couper le lapin en morceaux de 30 g chacun. Tailler les oignons nouveaux en julienne. Faire chauffer le fond de lapin sans le faire bouillir. Préchauffer le four à 150 °C (th. 5).

Faire chauffer l’huile d’ail et faire revenir l’ail dans la paella. Bien faire dorer le lapin sur toutes ses faces, puis le déplacer vers le bord de la paella et faire revenir l’oignon au centre. Ajouter le riz et le nacrer jusqu’à ce que les grains soient translucides, sans les faire brûler. Verser le vinaigre et racler le fond de la paella à l’aide d’une spatule pour le déglacer. Ajouter le sofrito de tomate et le faire revenir. Ajouter le pimentón et le faire revenir sans le faire brûler.

Ajouter le fond de lapin bien chaud. Répartir les escargots et le lapin sur toute la surface. Ajouter le safran. Porter à ébullition et programmer le minuteur sur 17 minutes. Laisser cuire sur feu très vif.

Au bout de 5 minutes, le riz doit affleurer à la surface du liquide. Goûter et saler en tenant compte de l’évaporation qui concen-trera toutes les saveurs. Retirer le romarin.

Mettre la paella au four. Quand le minuteur sonne, la paella est prête. La retirer du four, la laisser reposer 3 minutes, puis servir.

INTRODUCTION 005

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Donec arcu neque, condimentum sit amet convallis non, pellentesque a urna. Curabitur ligula dui, suscipit at fermentum ut, auctor sit amet metus. Nunc porttitor imperdiet purus, eget laoreet massa cursus id. Cras a felis ante, in hendrerit nulla. Quisque at erat non magna lobortis bibendum. Donec nibh dolor, accumsan ultricies tincidunt eget, fringilla nec mauris. Ut sed ipsum ac metus ultrices consectetur. Integer sit amet dui id tortor iaculis pharetra. Cherry and biscuit, page 124

004 PAELLA

Blad new concept.LG08.indd 16 04/03/2011 10:31

paella · 2017. 9. 8. · paella pan, add the garlic and fry with the mushrooms. after the liquid...

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