our dogs 100 recumbent trike

8/9/2019 Our Dogs 100 Recumbent Trike

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Our-Dogs-100-Recumbent-Trike/

Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

Our Dog's $100 Recumbent Trikeby dewey302 on January 23, 2015

Table of Contents

Our Dog's $100 Recumbent Trike .................................................................................................

Intro: Our Dog's $100 Recumbent Trike ..........................................................................................

Step 1: Front wheel and steering ...............................................................................................

Step 2: Main frame .........................................................................................................

Step 3: Front forks ..........................................................................................................

Step 4: Rear frame .........................................................................................................

Step 5: Brakes ............................................................................................................

Step 6: Derailleur .......................................................................................................... 1

Step 7: Adjustable recumbent seat ............................................................................................. 1

Step 8: Ready to ride. ....................................................................................................... 1

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1

Advertisements ............................................................................................................... 1

Comments ................................................................................................................ 1

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Intro: Our Dog's $100 Recumbent TrikeOur chocolate lab, Louie, just loves to run. His favorite used to be trotting along on a leash while I rode my bike. But a few weeks ago an unleashed/unattended dogcame at us while riding through a nearby neighborhood. Louie instinctively bolted toward the dog and when I couldn’t release his leash quick enough, my bike went ovand I took a splatter on the pavement. The damage was minor but I became concerned it could happen again and be much worse. So I decided to build something a lsafer than my two wheeler, which turned out to be Louie’s Recumbent Trike.

I picked up two decent 20" bikes at a local flea market for $35 and purchased $65 worth of metal from a local supplier. This included 20' of 1.5x1.5 square tubing, 12' 1x1 square tubing, 4' of ½ x ½ square tubing, 6' of 1" black pipe and 4' of 2" wide 3/16th flat stock steel. The remaining odds and ends for the project (nuts, bolts,upholstery material and primer) were things I had in my shop and would probably add up to about $10 or $15 if they had to be purchased.

I would rate this project as “moderately difficult” since it requires a good bit of welding as well as cutting and shaping some metal parts. It may also require some desigwork since the old bikes you find to make your trike might be quite different from the ones I happened to get. You also need a basic understanding how a bike isassembled and taken apart as well as a decent grasp of how a derailleur works and how it is adjusted. Most of this information can be found on the web if you lackhands-on experience. Derailleurs were a mystery to me when I started this project. So thank you internet.

Step 1: Front wheel and steeringI opted for a “delta” design, single front wheel to do the steering and dual rear wheels. I am also a big fan of trike builder Bill Irvine (google “bill irvine trikes” to seesome of his work) who builds trikes with front wheel power trains - pedals and chain drive go to the front wheel. For a first time builder, I found this design to be thesimplest and most economical. Note, however, that this design also results in some "pedal steer" and takes a bit of getting used to when first riding.

I began with this Huffy Roadmaster 20" frame and 6 speed sprocket set. (Photo 1) I used a 4" angle grinder to cut away unneeded pieces of the frame. (Photo 2) Nextmarked and cut a “birds mouth” in the seat tube so that the tube will point forward 18 degrees from vertical rather than to the rear as it did originally. (Photo 3) The seatube is then bent forward and welded. (Photo 4) The seat tube is strengthened with a steel gusset. I fi rst made a patten using heavy paper (Photo 5) and then cut thegusset from 1/8" flat stock and welded it in place. (Photo 5) Cut off the balance of the lower support bar. (Photo 7)

The steering head is cut away from the down tube. (Photo 8) Cut a length of 1.5 x 1.5 square tubing one inch shorter than the head tube. (Photo 9). Cut away one of tfour sides of the square tubing making it into a U-shaped channel. (Photo 10). Fit the channel around the head tube. (Photo 11) and weld it in place filling in the gaps othe top and the bottom with small pieces of flat stock. (Photo 12)

Cut the top portion of the steering tube away from the front fork assembly. (Photo 13) Remove the seat post from the saddle. Butt weld the seat post to the steering tuMake sure the tube and post are straight and aligned by inserting appropriately sized tubing into the inside of the tube and post. I used a 13 mm socket to slide inside steering tube and then found a leftover length of thin wall tubing f rom a solar light set which slipped inside the seat post tube AND f it snuggly over the 13 mm socket.(Photo 14) These parts are clamped together to hold them tight and straight and then the butt joint is welded (note: the 13 mm socket is sacrificed to the cause). (Phot15) Cut away the remaining “ears” of the fork attachment points. (Photo 16) This is now the new steering tube. (Photo 17)


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Step 2: Main frameCut 1.5 x 1.5 square tubing for the main frame. I used a 120 degree angle at the top and bottom of the vertical and an 18 degree angle to mount the head tube to themain frame. The top stub is about 4" long. The angled vertical tube is about 15" and the bottom tube is 27". (Photo 1) None of these measurements are etched in stonTo keep things square and in place for welding use two pieces of 2x4 cut to exactly the same length (for this trike, 13") to keep the lower tube and upper tube parallel.Then clamp the parts together and weld. (Photo 2) Weld the head tube assembly to the top stub of the main frame. (Photo 3)


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Step 3: Front forksTemporarily assemble the front wheel and steering tube to the main frame. (Photo 1) Note that with the drive sprockets now on the front rather than the rear, theratcheting mechanism requires that the sprocket set must be reversed (the wheel needs to be turned 180* in the drop outs) This also requires that the pedals be instalin the reverse position so that the pedal sprocket is on the same side as the drive wheel cog set. As will be shown later, the derailleur must also be turned upside dow

The front forks are attached to the existing mounting holes from the Huffy. (Photo 2) Cut a 1 ½" x 2" piece of 3/16 flat stock, dri ll holes to match the mounting points anscrew the flat stock to the drop out. (Photo 3) Cut a slit in the end of a 3' section of 1" black pipe and place it over the flat stock. (Photo 4) Drill a 3/8" hole through the

steering stem. (Photo 5) Put the stem in place in the steering tube. Line up the top end of the black pipe with this hole in the stem and then tack weld the bottom of theblack pipe to the flat stock mounting tab. Remove the black pipe and finish welding the mounting tabs. Cut off any excess portions of the 3/16 flat stock. (Photo 6)

Attach the lower end of the black pipe to the drop out and then drill a 3/8" hole in the top end of the black pipe to match the hole through the steering stem. Use a bolt threaded rod to secure the top end of the black pipe to the steering stem. (Photo 7) The front forks are now complete. (Photo 8)


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Step 4: Rear frameCut 2 pieces of 1.5" square tubing at 30" and 4 pieces at 21" and weld them as shown. (Photo 1) Cut four “drop outs”, 4" long, from 2" wide 3/16" flat stock. Dr illmatching holes in each of the four drop outs. The holes should be the diameter of your axles. (Photo 2) Using an angle grinder, cut open each of the drop outs makingthem slightly wider at the mouth. (Photo 3). Line up the drop outs using a wheel and axle as a guide (Photo 4) and weld the drop outs in place. (Photo 5) The trike cannow sit on its own three feet. (Photo 6 and 7)


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Step 5: BrakesCut the front brake bracket away from the rest of the front fork. (Photo 1) Cut two mounting plates from 3/16" flat stock. (Photo 2) Drill holes and attach the mountingplates to the brake bracket. (Photo 3) Position the brakes and weld the mounting plates to the front forks. (Photo 4 and 5)

Cable guides for brakes and derailleurs can be purchased but you can also make your own using #10-24 x 3/4" coupling nuts f rom Home Depot. (Photo 6) Clamp the in a drill press vise and bore out one end large enough for the ferrule. The bit should only go about ½" deep into the nut leaving enough metal at the bottom or the nut prevent the ferrule from slipping through. (Photo 7) Put the nut in a vise and slit it lengthwise with a 4" angle grinder. (Photo 8 and 9)


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Step 6: DerailleurThe derailleur must be installed upside down in order to operate properly. The mounting point must also be moved 2 1/4" forward and about 1/16" higher than the origaxle mounting point. A bracket to do this is made by welding together two pieces of 3/16" flat stock. (Photo 1) Holes are drilled to mount the bracket on the axle and tomount the derailleur to the bracket. Note the smaller hole which is used to keep the derailleur from spinning out of position. (Photo 2) The bracket is mounted on the ax(photo 3) and the derailleur is attached (Photo 4)

Step 7: Adjustable recumbent seatThe metal frame for the seat is made in three separate sections allowing for full adjustment of the back position and the headrest position. The seat frame is made of 1square tubing. The bottom and top sections are 10" long and 9.5" wide. The longer middle section is 19" long and 9.5" wide. (Photo 1) The cushions which cover theframe are 12" wide. The top and bottom cushions are 11" long while the middle section is 17" long.

The sections are “hinged” to each other by welding 1"x2" pieces of 3/16" flat stock to the outside of the frame rails for the top and bottom section of the seat. The hingeextend toward the center section of the seat and holes are drilled through the hinge section and the side rails of the seats center section. (Photo 2) The sections are thbolted together. (Photo 3 and 4) The seat sections can be moved to an unlimited number of positions relative to each other and then the hinge bolts can be tightened thold the seat in place. (Photo 5) Addition support for the seat is provided by two small braces on the back side of the seat which are also fully adjustable. (Photo 6)

The seat cushions are made using ½" strand board as a base. (Photo 7) Holes are drilled through the metal frame and wooden seat base and tee nuts (Photo 8) are uto secure the seat base. (Photo 9) To secure the seat to the main frame of the trike, metal tabs are welded to the bottom of the seat frame and holes are drilled througthe tabs. (Photo 10) The seat f rame is flipped over and can be slid forward and backward along the center rib of the trike’s main f rame. When a comfortable pedalingposition is found, the seat bolts are tightened in place. (Photo 11)

The cushion padding consists of 4 layers of 1/4" closed cell foam glued together on top of the wooden seat base. The edges of the foam and base are sanded to prova smooth and even surface. (Photo 12) The upholstery for each seat section consists of three pieces. The seat top, the seat side, and a strip of welting. (Photo 13) Ththree pieces are sewn together inside out. (Photo 14) The upholstery is then turned right-side-out, stretched over the foam, and stapled to the bottom of the wooden sbase. (Photo 15)


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Step 8: Ready to ride.The finished trike (Photo 1 and 2) Also a short video of Louie taking an early cruise.

The trike has been on the road for a number of months. In fact, Louie has lost about 10 lbs due in part to the great exercise he gets running along with the trike. I recetore the trike down, however, to apply a paint job AND to install an electric motor. The Instructable for making the trike electric (dual powered) can be seen here.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Electric-Trike-Its-for-the-dogs/


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Comments

30 comments Add Comment

blueaxe says: Jan 27, 2015. 11:36 AM REPThat is so cool!! Both you and Louie will be healthier for all the exercise. :)

Would it be worth i t to add a triangular gusset between the horizontal tube running forward under the seat, and the forward-angled vertical tube? That weldlooks to be the most stressed...

dewey302 says: Jan 27, 2015. 8:38 PM REPIt would be a simple task to add a gusset like that for those who might feel it is a weak point. Personally I feel pretty confident about the joint. Hopefullyone of you will come pick me up with a trailer if my engineering guesswork is wrong.

solmstea says: Jan 27, 2015. 1:37 PM REPVery nice! But you're doing an awful lot of pedaling...the way my dog pulls, I'd only wonder if the brakes are strong enough. Have you thought of puttingstorage between the back wheels?

dewey302 says: Jan 27, 2015. 3:17 PM REP

Yes. It's not shown in the photos but there is a storage tray which fits in the rear center section. Don't tell my wife, but it's one of her cookie sheets. Fitsperfect.

And you are right about the brakes. My lab will pull the bike for the first 10 - 15 minutes we run. I don't have to pedal or throttle the electric motor. He'spretty well trained that when I apply the brakes he is supposed to stop. ("supposed to" being the key words there.) The middle 15 minutes he runs eitheahead or along side the bike. The last 15 - I usually have to slow down so his tongue doesn't get caught in the spokes.

gumby_kevbo says: Jan 27, 2015. 11:12 AM REPIt steers OK with all that negative trail? Really? I guess it is not like 2 wheeler where you need a little positive trail to help make it want to stay upright.

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also get quite expensive with precision rod ends, special bearings, axles, and tie rods. If you manage to get the dual front steering right, the trikshould have great handling and stability. The single rear wheel drive takes a bit of thought regarding pedal location and chain routing. Normallythe chain has to run under the seat and often must run on idler gears to keep it safe and tight. The single rear drive also presents challenges ifyou want a dual powered bike running electric assist.

The biggest drawback I find with dual rear drive wheels and single front steering is the drive train and chain routing. Some have run the chaindown the center of the bike, under the seat, and then hooked to the wheels via a differential. Bicycle differentials are nice but quite expensive.Some have run the chain directly to a solid rear axle driving both wheels. This creates difficulties with "scrubbing" whenever the trike takes acorner. Others have split the rear axle and driven only one rear wheel while others have used a jack shaft design to t ransfer the power of thecenter mounted pedals to one or the other outer wheel. To my mind the jack shaft design would be the least dif ficult way for a novice to achieverear wheel drive. It would also allow dual power (pedals could drive one rear wheel and an electric motor the other assuming both were able tofree-wheel).

The big advantage of either of the above designs over the front wheel drive design shown in this instructable is that you can eliminate any pedasteer and awkwardness when turning (the Big Wheel effect) due to the pedals turning with the wheel. You also eliminate a lot of tinkering arounto reverse the derailleur.

But as I said, challenges are in the eye of the beholder. Study all the designs on the web and think through (and draw out) each element of thetrike you want to build. Hopefully you'll come up with a design that f its your taste and skill set.

Pontay says: Jan 27, 2015. 5:56 AM REPOne really great website for home made recumbents like this is Atomic Zombie. The guy has great plans for cheap (6 plans for $36). It also hasforums for builders to share tips. http://www.atomiczombie.com/

He works in mild steel also, no aluminum. For the same reasons I believe.

Pontay says: Jan 27, 2015. 5:57 AM REPI forgot to say, he also has plans for rear wheel drive. Even with 2 pedalers to pedal at different speeds.

paracordbylane says: Jan 25, 2015. 2:42 PM REPI work for a metal fabricating company. we do aluminum welding so that wouldn't be an issue. just thinking of weight putting it in back of truck to takto trails.

pooter1433 says: Jan 27, 2015. 7:51 AM REPBrilliant idea and execution! Using your design, I'm considering building a recumbent tandem for my parents so they can get some exercise. It will definitelyneed a beer holder for them, and an ahstray :(

modern man says: Jan 27, 2015. 6:22 AM REPparacordbylane, have a look at a great web site & forum that shows many options for building your own!

atomiczombie.com

harold Paine says: Jan 27, 2015. 5:55 AM REPHi great instructable very concisely written and simple to understand even for those who are DIY challenged!!!! If you are interested in more challengingprojects a good site to view is Atomic Zombies, these people take you on further in bike design and biulding.

castaneda58 says: Jan 25, 2015. 12:18 PM REPwith a motor i like even more

dewey302 says: Jan 25, 2015. 2:00 PM REPIt won't be long. Electric installation is done and road tested. Just have to finish up the Instructable.

catlily says: Jan 24, 2015. 7:15 PM REPNice work!

fronters says: Jan 24, 2015. 1:41 PM REPCool! I like it!

fronters says: Jan 24, 2015. 1:40 PM REPCool! I like it!

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mtairymd says: Jan 24, 2015. 12:39 PM REPNice job. Looks fun to ride.

smorgsborg says: Jan 24, 2015. 1:23 AM REPGreat idea!

sxcgreekboi_24 says: Jan 23, 2015. 10:52 PM REPOh ok that makes sence nice work

sxcgreekboi_24 says: Jan 23, 2015. 6:10 PM REPI don't understand the concept, can you turn it?Ps nice welds :)

dewey302 says: Jan 23, 2015. 9:31 PM REPTake a look at the video, the link is provided in the final step. Yes, it turns exactly like a bike or any trike with front wheel steering. The only difference isthe pedals are also attached to the front end so they move/turn as the wheel is turned. This takes a bit of getting used to but once you've ridden for a feminutes it feels pretty natural. Sort of like a big wheel. You also get some pedal steer. When your right foot pushes the right pedal the wheel is pushed bit to the left and visa-versa. Again, you get accustomed to the feel quite quickly and compensate with the handlebars. You can not, however, let go ofthe handlebars with both hands. One hand steering is fine. No hands...wild ride.
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our dogs 100 recumbent trike

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