open mesh crochet top - · pdf fileopen mesh crochet top this pattern hasn't been tested...

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Open Mesh Crochet Top This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix it. Please don't claim this pattern as your own. If you make, share or sell items made from this pattern please credit PatternPiperCrochet and link to my blog www.patternpiper.com - Thanks!

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Page 1: Open Mesh Crochet Top - · PDF fileOpen Mesh Crochet Top This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix

Open Mesh Crochet Top

This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix it.

Please don't claim this pattern as your own. If you make, share or sell items made from this pattern please credit PatternPiperCrochet and link

to my blog www.patternpiper.com - Thanks!

Page 2: Open Mesh Crochet Top - · PDF fileOpen Mesh Crochet Top This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix

Open Mesh Crochet JumperBefore you begin...

● The jumper is worked from the bottom up. Exact tension is not important BUT your tension needs to be the same throughout● For my cream coloured top I used approximately 200g of DK yarn with a 4mm hook. I made the grey oversized jumper with

approximately 250g of 2ply yarn holding 2 strands together, a 5mm hook and a fairly loose tension. ● The pattern is adaptable. Make the jumper as wide and as long as you like.. For my cream jumper I used a starting chain of 65 and

repeated the main pattern repeat less times than for the oversized grey jumper, which had a starting chain of 101 stitches making it extra wide and snuggly. Remember also that your jumper will increase in size when you block it.

● You will need to put aside some yarn to be used part way through the pattern to create a starting chain for the sleeves. A length of yarn twice as long as your arm should be sufficient.

This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try

to fix it.

Please don't claim this pattern as your own. If you make, share or sell items made from this pattern please credit

PatternPiperCrochet and link to my blog www.patternpiper.com - Thanks!

Symbols & (Abbreviations) – UK terms

Chain (ch) Chain 4 (ch4) – counts as 1 treble crochet and 1 chain at the start of a rowDouble crochet (dc) (US single crochet) Treble crochet (tr)(US double crochet)Slip stitch

Make 2Foundation Chain: Make the foundation chain the length that you would like the width of your jumper to be. The foundation chain should be an odd number. For example, 65, 79, 101Row 1: Chain 1 (doesn't count as a stitch) then double crochet into the second chain from the hook. dc in each chain all the way along. Turn your work.Row 2: ch4, skip the next stitch, tr in the next stitch, *ch1, skip the next stitch, tr in the next* Repeat from * to * all the way along, finishing with a tr in the last stitch. TurnRows 3: ch4, skip the next chain 1 space of the previous row, tr into the next tr of the previous row, *ch1, skip the next ch 1 space, tr into the next tr*. Repeat from * to * all the way along, finishing with a tr in the 3 rd chain of the beginning ch4 of the previous row.Rows 4-7: repeat row 3Row 8: ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch), dc in each tr and ch1 space of the previous row, including the 3rd chain of the beginning ch4. TurnRow 9: ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch), dc in each dc of the previous row. TurnRows 10-11: repeat row 9Row 12: repeat row 2Rows 13-17: repeat row 3Depending on the length that you would like your jumper, repeat Rows 8-17 one or two more times (in my cream jumper I repeated 1 more time. In my grey jumper I repeated 2 more times). 1 more time will give you 27 rows. 2 more times will give you 37 rows.Row 27(37) continued: When you reach the end of row 27/37 you will begin to make the sleeves. Rather than turning your work make a chain. The length of the chain will depend on the length of the sleeves that you want. I chained 20 stitches here in my grey jumper. You can skip this part altogether if you don't want sleeves, like on my cream jumper, just don't make the extra chain. Turn your work when the chain is the length you require. Row 28(38): ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch), make 1 dc in each of the new chains and each tr and chain 1 space of the previous row, including the 3 rd chain of the beginning ch4. Do not turn your work here. Instead remove your hook, leaving a loop. Don't fasten off as you will return to this loop in a moment. Using the yarn that you put aside at the start join with a slip stitch into the 3 rd chain of the beginning ch4 of the previous row. Now make 20 chains (or the number required for your sleeve) and then fasten off this yarn. Return your hook to the loop that you left a moment ago and the continue to dc in each of the new chains. TurnRows 29-31(39-41): ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch), dc in each stitch across. TurnRow 32(42): repeat row 2Rows 33-37(43-47): repeat row 3Row 38(48): repeat row 8Row 39:(49) Neck shaping: On this row you will begin to shape the neck of your jumper. As with the sleeves, the length and the width of the jumper, the size of the neck opening is up to you. You might want to use stitch markers to mark the centre of the jumper and then count an even number of stitches either side of the centre point to show you the beginning and end of the opening. Once you''ve decided where you want the opening to begin, ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch) and dc in each stitch of the previous round up to this point. Then, slip stitch into each of the next stitches until you get to the point where you'd like the opening to end. Continue to dc in each of the next stitches until the end of the row. TurnRows 40-49(50-59): ch1 (doesn't count as a stitch), dc in each dc from the previous row, slip stitch in each slip stitch of the previous row, dc in each dc of the previous row. TurnFasten Off.Joining: With right sides together join your work at the shoulder, arm and side seams using your favourite joining method. I like to use a dc seam. On the side seams I used two dc at the end of each mesh row (e.g rows 2 to 7) and 1 dc at the end of each dc row (e.g. rows 8-11)Finishing: I finished the sleeves with a dc border all the way around

Page 3: Open Mesh Crochet Top - · PDF fileOpen Mesh Crochet Top This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix

Foundation row

When you reach the end of row 27/37 you will begin to make the sleeves. Rather than turning your work you will make a chain. The length of the chain will depend on the length of the sleeves that you want. I chained 20 stitches

here.

Repeat rows 8 to 17 one or two times depending on the length you want your jumper. 1 more time

will give you 27 rows, 2 more times will give you 37 rows.

Once you have made your chain of 20 at the end of row 27/37 turn your work and begin row 28/38. Chain 1 and then double crochet in each stitch of the previous row, including the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 4. Then remove the hook from the yarn but do not fasten off. Leave a loop so that you can continue again in a minute. Using the yarn that you put to one side earlier, slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 3 of row 28/38 and then chain 20. Fasten off this chain (this chain is shown in red on the chart) Return the hook to the loop that you left at the end of row 28/38 and then continue row 28/38 by making a double crochet into each of the 20

chains that you just made.

Row 2

Row 4

Row 6

Row 8

Row 10

Row 12

Row 14

Row 16

Row 3

Row 5

Row 7

Row 11

Row 13

Row 15

Row 17 (Row 27/37)

Row 9

Row 1

Row 28/38

Row 30/40

Row 32/42

Row 34/44

Row 36/46

Row 38/48

Row 40/50

Row 42/52

Row 44/54Row 46/56Row 48/58

Row 29/39

Row 31/41

Row 33/43

Row 35/45

Row 37/47

Row 41/51

Row 43/53

Row 45/55Row 47/57

Row 49/59

Row 39/49

Remove the hook here but don't fasten off. You will pick up this stitch

again in a minute

Open Mesh Crochet Jumper

Symbols & (Abbreviations) – UK termsChain (ch) Chain 4 (ch4) – counts as 1 treble crochet and 1 chain at the start of a row

Double crochet (dc) (US single crochet)Treble crochet (tr)(US double crochet)

Slip stitch

Before you begin...● The jumper is worked from the bottom up. Exact tension is not important BUT your tension needs to be the same throughout● For my cream coloured top I used approximately 200g of DK yarn with a 4mm hook. I made the grey oversized jumper with

approximately 250g of 2ply yarm holding 2 strands together, a 5mm hook and a fairly loose tension. ● The pattern is adaptable. Make the jumper as wide and as long as you like. For my cream jumper I used a starting chain of 65 and

repeated the main pattern repeat less times than for the oversized grey jumper, which had a starting chain of 101 stitches making it extra wide and snuggly. Remember also that your jumper will increase in size when you block it.

● You will need to put aside some yarn to be used part way through the pattern to create a starting chain for the sleeves. A length of yarn twice as long as your arm should be sufficient

● The chart below is a sample only to give an indication of pattern repeat. You will need to adjust the length and width accordingly.

This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone other than me so please let me know if it doesn't quite work and I'll try to fix it.

Please don't claim this pattern as your own. If you make, share or sell items made from this pattern please credit PatternPiperCrochet and link

to my blog www.patternpiper.com - Thanks!