onyx woman magazine shades of beauty in black

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ONYX WOMAN ® Volume 20, Special Beauty Edition $3.95 Our Career, Our Business, Our Finances Kimberly Slater-Wood Patrice LeSesne Tamiko Stanley Robin Greer Carmelle Nickens Kristen Freeland Natural Girl in a Corporate World Fashion Icons Stylish Women of the World Marcia Martin From Volunteer to Healthcare Career Gateway Health Plan Shades of Beauty in Black Black Women Talking Beauty Darieth Chisolm From Television Studio to Fitness Studio

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Onyx Woman was created as a how-to-guide to educate inspire and motivate African American women on their journeys through entrepreneurship, up the corporate ladder and to every other destination on their search for financial empowerment.

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Page 1: Onyx Woman Magazine Shades of Beauty in Black

ONYX WOMAN®

Volume 20, Special Beauty Edition$3.95

Our Career, Our Business, Our Finances

Kimberly Slater-Wood

Patrice LeSesne

Tamiko Stanley

Robin Greer

Carmelle Nickens

Kristen FreelandNatural Girl in a Corporate World

Fashion Icons

Stylish Women of the World

Marcia MartinFrom Volunteer to Healthcare CareerGateway Health Plan

Shades of Beauty in BlackBlack Women Talking Beauty

Darieth Chisolm

From Television Studio to Fitness Studio

Page 2: Onyx Woman Magazine Shades of Beauty in Black
Page 3: Onyx Woman Magazine Shades of Beauty in Black

It was sometime in the Seventies whenI first saw beauty icon and supermodelBeverly Johnson staring back at me onthe cover of Glamour Magazine. Brownskinned with high cheekbones and hairpulled back, Beverly was a vision of beautyseldom showcased in the African-Amer-ican community, let alone mainstreamAmerica, especially on the cover of a majorpublication.

Fast forward to 2012, and there areonly a few more African-American womenon the cover of major magazines as therewere “way back when.” Why? Because deepshades of Black and Brown are still notsynonymous with beauty.

Yes, beauty does come in a kaleido-scope of earth tones, even if society andmembers of our community try to tell usdifferently. The time has come to showmore pride in the array of skin tones, hairtextures and body silhouettes we possess.

In this issue, we spoke to a bevy ofbeauties to get their views about the stan-dards of beauty and their own personal ex-periences related to their looks, style, andphysical attributes.

There was a time when big butts wereconsidered bad butts and large lips sub-jected their owner to shame and ridicule.Today, some of the most popular featuresthat are natural attributes for black womenare being recreated in plastic surgeons’ of-fices around the world.

We live in a society that spends a lot oftime and money convincing women thatwe are not good enough unless we pur-chase a product or service that will alterour appearance or send us back to look-ing like our unpractical and unattainableyouthful selves.

As time passes, it seems that Madi-son Avenue keeps raising the bar on whatwomen are supposed to look like in orderto be considered acceptable by society. Themessage to women of color is that the fur-ther we are removed from our Afrocentricfeatures, the more attractive we are.

We experiment with a broad rangeof hair textures, skin colors and beautify-ing concepts, transforming the fashionsthat adorn the runways of the world to thestreets of urban America, with dollars and

cents never getting in the way of our stylesense.

So much time, effort and money isspent with women transforming them-selves to adhere to what society hasdeemed beautiful in a society obsessedwith youth and unrealistic beauty.

Too often women are validated basedon their looks. What is worse is that somewomen fall into the trap of trying to em-mulate an appearance that is not meantfor them, and in some cases, not evenhealthy. Not even the models on the cov-ers of magazines look as good in person as,“the airbrushed model on the cover”

I will never forget a quote that I readmany years ago, “If women felt good aboutthemselves the economy would collapse.”

What hasn’t seemed to collapse isthe new revolution taking place as blackwomen alter the mantra of the 70’s, “Say itLoud. I am Natural and I’m Proud.” It’s arevolution. Black women are changing thegame and playing by our own rules.

The Beauty Principle is Evolving

| A WORD FROM OLA

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Ola Jackson, Founder and CEO - OWN: Onyx Woman Network

Page 3Onyx Woman® Volume 20 Special Beauty Edition

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6 Fashion Icon There are well-dressed women; there are stylish women; and there are women whose flare for fashion, sense of style, and innate ability to coordinate make them stand out as fashion leaders.

8 Marcia MartinMarcia Martin is definitely a corporate leader in the healthcare industry in Pennsylvania. What you might not know is how her love of people led her to volunteer and eventually started her on her career path.

9 Naturally SpeakingUnless you have been on another planet, you will know that natural hair is here to stay, and African-American women are embracing their kinky, curly, and wavy coif. Kristen Freeland shares her experience of being a natural girl in the corporate world.

10 Beauty in Shades of Black Black women are having their say about beauty, the industry, their images, and America’s perception of beauty.

18 Women Unite to Achieve Women’s Empowerment and CollaborationSee what happens when African-American, Lisa Harper and South African, Nthabi Led-waba come together to launch a dream that would unite women business leaders from both sides of the world.

Onyx Woman was created as a how-to guideto educate, inspire and motivate AfricanAmerican women on their journeys throughentrepreneurship, up the corporate ladder andto every other destination on their search forfinancial empowerment.

ONYX WOMAN is an online publication thatpublishes special edition hard copy issues.OWN: Onyx Woman Network, P.O. Box 8653,Pittsburgh, PA 15221. Tel: (412) 731-5159.www.ownonyxwomannetwork.tv.

Advertising is accepted at the discretion ofthe publisher. Acceptance does not implyendorsement. All information containedherein is believed to be factual. The opinionsexpressed by contributors or those interviewedare not necessarily those of the publisher.

Reproduction of any part of this magazine isprohibited. ONYX WOMAN Network© 2012. All Rights Reserved.

ONYX WOMAN and the three ONYX WOMANladies are registered trademarks of Ola Jackson.ISSN# 1098-1764.

We will not be responsible for any unsolicitedmaterials. You must submit address changesto OWN: Onyx Woman Network, P.O. Box 8653,Pittsburgh, PA 15221.

ONYX WOMAN MAGAZINEVolume 20, Special Beauty Edition

FOUNDER/PUBLISHER:Ola R. Jackson

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS:Khadija Woods

Carla Dean

COVER PHOTO BY:Joey Kennedy

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Daryl E. JacksonDiane I. Daniels

Allegra Battle JohnsonL. Denise Johnson

Renee P. Aldrich

GRAPHIC DESIGN:William H. Feagins, Jr.

High Impact Designs/Multimedia

PHOTO CREDITS:Catherine Cooper - Roy Cox Photography

Kim Wood - Laszlo BartosDebbie Norrell - Ahmad Sandidge

Judge Kim Berkeley - Clark, Ricco J.L. MartelloMarcia Martin - Ronald Glover

Melinda Glover & Julie Latham - Andre Glover

VISIT US ONLINE:www.ownonyxwomannetwork.tv

www.onyxwoman.ning.comwww.homegirlceo.ning.com

www.facebook.com/homegirlceowww.twitter.com/homegirlceo

contents

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Going Back to My Roots

I love being natural because it ’s me inthe RAW, no additives or preservatives.My hair is a reflection of my God-Givenspirit. Strong but gentle, full of twists,turns and infinite possibilities.

Missie ShealeyAtlanta, GA 

Naturally Beautiful!

In high school, I struggled with straighthairstyles. My mother vetoed most ofwhat I liked because they were “too old”for me, and my hairstylist ruled out therest because I didn’t have enough hair. Af-

ter hours at the salon, I was never happywith the results and couldn’t maintain thestyle for more than a week. When I cut outmy perm at 15, I was too young to knowhow liberating it would turn out to be.Going natural encouraged me to createmy own style and make myself beautifulwith the attributes given to me at birth.

Khadija WoodsNew Jersey

The Root of the Problem

I was sick of going to hair salons, spend-ing lots of time and too much money fora hairstyle that lasted about a week. I cansave a lot of money and wasted time notgoing into an environment that isn’t al-ways as professional as it should be. Noneed to mention the damage done to myhair by stylists who don’t believe in givingconsultations before handing you over tothe sometimes untrained shampoo girl.

Jarene BarnesPittsburgh, PA

Renee P. Aldrich

| LETTERS TO THE EDITOR | SPIRITUAL NOTES

cont’d on page 21

Learning to Lose the Mask and Be Yourselfby Renee P. Aldrich

One of the overwhelming challengesof being a woman is coming to termswith who we are ina world full of hypeabout what it meansto be beautiful. Manyof us struggle to ac-cept our life condi-tion in the face of amedia culture thatdictates the dimen-sions of a perfectbody. We often allowourselves to be subjectto hurtful opinions offamily, friends, and significant others,even when those opinions are formedby whatever warped view they have ofthemselves. Historically, society dic-tated to us what we should look like,sound like, act like, where we shouldlive, and so much more. This mademany women develop emotional masksin a self-imposed quest to be “perfect”.A woman wearing a mask meets peopleand creates an imaginary existence thatpresents her in a better light. You haveseen a woman behind a mask or beenone yourself if you ever found yourselfin conversation presenting an extremelyexaggerated version of yourself.

At work, we go to great lengths topresent a picture of perfection. We cre-ate undue stress and anxiety for our-selves by trying to be indispensable,rather than assessing the reality of ourcapabilities. Another place where youmay see a lot of “Masked Women” is,unfortunately, in the church. Present-ed with a picture of what spiritualityshould look like, many find themselvesunable to keep up. On Wednesdays andSundays we show up with “Masks ofPious Pretense” that are impossible tomaintain. This happens when we do not

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| VIP VISIONARIES, IMAGES & PROFILES

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Kristal Turner-ChildsPennsylvania State TrooperHarrisburg, PA

Kristal may adorn a state trooperuniform during the day, but at night, shestands out at her Delta Sigma Theta sorori-ty events and in her work as a motivationalspeaker and consultant. Turner-Childs ex-presses her individual sense of style with aflexibility that showcases her most elegantensembles.

While her uniform includes a stan-dard-issue State Trooper hat, her personalcollection is far more vibrant. Her fashionchoices define her individuality and makesher one of the city’s best dressed.

Catherine CooperImage StylistWashington, D.C

This former fashion model works thesidewalks of our nation’s capital, where sheuses her natural sense of style to combinetraditional ensembles with contemporarytrends accented by unique, one-of-a-kindpieces collected during her travels.

Catherine opts for select silhouettes toframe her statuesque physique and high-light colors that enrich the finished look.She is as versatile in her fashion choices asshe is with the many glamorous hairstylesthat she has become known for.

You know who “She” is. “She” isthe woman who always gets it rightin the fashion department. “She” hasa signature style that is both classicand modern. Her sense of fashion isan outward presentation of her fo-cus, drive and playful sense of beautyin her own form. “She” is elegantlycoifed from head to toe, and the confi-dence that imbues shines through.

The ladies on these pages are theepitome of style and creativity. Thesefashion VIP’s are not just dressed well;they are poised, polished and fashionforward. They are our Fashion Icons.

FASHIONICON

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| VIP VISIONARIES, IMAGES & PROFILES

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Judge Kim Berkeley ClarkAdministrative Judge, Family Division,Allegheny County Common PleasPittsburgh, PA

Although the understated black robeis what you see in the courtroom, her ca-reer wear underneath is eye-catching andsimply elegant. The usually conservativelydressed, award-winning judge is fierce inher take-charge business attire. She has akeen eye for what works for her and, as heradmirers know, Judge Clark can work ahat like nobody’s business!

The jury is in on one of Pittsburgh’smost beloved judges. She does not breakthe rules when it comes to making a fash-ion statement.

Kimberly Slater-WoodDirector of OutreachPittsburgh Penguins OrganizationPittsburgh, PA

Kim keeps it simple, classic and so-phisticated. Even though she doesn’t geton the ice in her work with Pittsburgh’sStanley Cup Winning hockey team, herstyle is hot! The busy fashion-forwardbusiness executive has a well-orchestrat-ed wardrobe that must accommodateher hectic schedule full of board meet-ings, special events, social gatherings andbusiness trips. Away from the office, thiswell-traveled fashionista chooses to makedaring fashion statements in trendsettinggarments that celebrate her curves andhold her place on our most fashionable list.

Debbie NorrellLifestyle EditorThe New Pittsburgh CourierPittsburgh, PA

When this award-winning journalistisn’t writing about lifestyle news, coveringfashion shows or emceeing one of Pitts-burgh’s fabulous events, she can be foundin vintage, thrift and consignment shopssearching for durable, timeless pieces toadd to her eclectic yet adaptable ward-robe.

Debbie sponsors group shopping ex-peditions to teach others how to developwardrobes with longevity to create theirown signature look. That animal-printclutch in her photo was purchased over 20years ago!

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cont’d on page 20

Marcia Martin has always been passionate about helping people. When shewas a young girl, she spearheaded her first volunteer action, inspired by

her desire to help other kids in her neighborhood in Pittsburgh’sHill District. As a student, she continued to volunteer for vari-

ous causes, choosing to develop her passion for people witha career in the health care industry. She currently serves asthe Vice President of Gateway Health Plan, Pennsylvania’salternative to the Public Welfare Medical Assistance Pro-gram. It provides services to over 200,000 members. Martin’swork demands that she understand the core health care needsof her service area, an understanding that has made her anadvocate for access to affordable health care in  low-incomecommunities.

OW: How did you get your start in the health care in-dustry?

MM: This is a second career for me. My first career was inhuman resources and I was looking to make a change. I’ve always

done a lot of volunteering in the community and I wanted a jobwhere I could help people. I was particularly interested in helping

people with low incomes. I felt health care was the best opportunityfor me to use my skills to help people live longer, healthier lives.

OW: Where did you get your passion for helping people?

MM:  I started helping people at a very young age. I was in aprogram called Urban Youth Action, founded by Bernard Jones.I’m originally from the Hill District and I saw some kids thathad holes in their shoes.  I told Mr. Jones and his response tome was, “What do you plan to do about it?” So I wrote a letterto the Pittsburgh Press. I did a shoe drive and hundreds of pairs

of shoes came into the Hill City Building on Bedford Avenue. I’vebeen giving ever since. 

OW: What does the passing of President Obama’s Afford-able Care Act mean for Pennsylvanians?

MM: I think the bill will expand medical assistance. Theissue we have in Pennsylvania is that, even though the SupremeCourt upheld it, a lot will depend on the election. Mitt Romneyhas clearly stated that he plans to repeal it (if he gets into office)and there’s a lot of opposition. Pennsylvania has not signed on to

| WORK ZONE

From Volunteer to HealthCare CareerAn Onyx Woman Q & A with Health Care Professional Marcia Martin

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| WORK ZONE

Claudette Lewis

Kristen Freeland

When most people think of retire-ment, they picture themselves loungingon a beach, fishing or having drinks by thepool. That’s not the portrait that ClaudetteLewis had in mind when she decided to re-tire. Lewis has worked around the world invarious corporate and non-profit jobs, andwined and dined with some of the world’selite. She has positively impacted commu-nities across the world, so there is no wayretirement would slow her down.

After the Brooklyn, NY native earneduniversity degrees in math and Spanish,she went to work as a research analyst atan airline in 1968. The position affordedher the opportunity to travel the world andlive out her dreams. After working and liv-ing in Central America, Europe and South

Claudette Lewis: Reimagining Retirement by Allegra Johnson

Africa, Lewis found herself in the Pitts-burgh area. “I got a call from the Depart-ment of Human Services to see if I wantedto be a senior staff member, and I acceptedthat position and stayed there for almost14 years until I retired,” Lewis explained.

Since retiring, Lewis has embarkedon the next chapter of her life, a chapterjust as exciting and diverse as her career.She was recently named the Interim CEO/President of NEED, a community-based,non-profit, higher education assistanceprogram for minority students. There, shehas also served on the board and as Chairof the Scholarship Committee. In addi-tion, she serves on the executive boardsof a number of organizations, includingthe Program to Aid Citizen Enterprise

Nowhere is the relationship between hair and image moretangled than here in the United States. In the Motherland, hairwas a crowning achievement. Some hairstyles signified one’s sta-tion in society or marked a rite of passage. This changed duringthe slave trade when hair texture was used to part the Black com-munity. Nearly 160 years after the Emancipation Proclamation,we are still living the good hair/bad hair legacy.

During the height of the Black Power movement, the focuschanged as we encouraged each other to embrace our natural as-sets. Afros and cornrows became political statements of culturalauthenticity. Our styles said it all: “Say it loud, I’m Black and I’mproud.”

The new millennium sister has more coif choices than everbefore, enough to make Madame C. J. Walker flip her wig! Fromextensions and weaves, lace fronts and locs, the modern Blackwoman can change her hair shade or style at a whim. She mayeven choose to rock a bald dome and still turn heads.

cont’d on page 20

Naturally Speaking: A Natural Girl in the Corporate WorldBy C. Denise Johnson

(PACE), the Mt. Ararat Community Cen-ter, Three Rivers Youth and the PittsburghFoundation.

cont’d on page 11

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COVER STORY

Carmelle NickensDevelopment/Marketing Consultant

Tamiko StanleyAssistant Director & EEO OfficerCity of Pittsburgh, Mayor Ravenstahl

In the eye of each beholder, beauty is a varied thing, but perception drives the “standards” of beauty that inform modern massmedia discourse. We spoke to five women from our cover photo who had a lot to say about defining their own standards of beauty insociety as well as the workplace, their families and in their own minds.

Society’s definition and portrayal ofbeauty has always been contrary to thenatural characteristics of women of color,creating an inferno of self-hatred. Inac-curate images of women and girls havesupported stereotypes that form negativeattitudes many women have about theirbodies and their appearance.

Even though it seems that girls of col-or have fewer relatable portrayals of beautyin media today, I believe our saving graceis the confidence that women of today havein themselves and each other. We are onthe brink of change as women in and outof the limelight exhibit their beauty anduniqueness with confidence and assur-ance.

Today, you can find more positivecampaigns that combat the expectation

that young girls conform to an unrealisticstandard of beauty. These include cam-paigns like “My Black is Beautiful” and“Black Girls Rock”, opportunities to teachthat beauty has no one face, size, style orcolor.

The features that society often de-fines as shortcomings are usually the veryunique oddities that make each personbeautiful. I embrace my own unique-ness and did so at a very young age. As anadult, I understand that it was not by acci-dent that I appreciated the intrigue of myunique features. The oddness of my deep,dark skin and deep-set eyes were attributesthat I was taught to appreciate. My motherraised me with positive references to mylooks, something women of color must al-ways do from one generation to the next!

As a young model and retail buyer inthe fashion industry, I knew that percep-tion of beauty was a matter of who one wasculturally, ethnically and racially. It wasclear to me that cover images of vixen-like,blond, blue-eyed, thin and flat-chestedCaucasian women fit the “standard” forthe fashion industry, but were so unlikethe curvaceous and voluptuous womenwho filled my life as grandmothers, moth-ers, sisters, aunts, nieces and cousins.

I was driven to set a standard forwomen of color, and let people know thatwe were out there in all colors, shapes andsizes! I did “break the barriers” locallywhen I was hired in the early 80s to do oneof the first magazine covers for PittsburghPreview!

African-American women, Latinawomen, and women of mixed racial de-scent all had a place in this industry, butwere faced with the issue of “looking dif-

ferent” and not being accepted for ourhair, skin color and body types.

I can say that my looks have beenboth an asset and a detriment in my life.Most often, because of my skin tone,people don’t know “what I am.” In truth,men have always been kinder to me thanwomen (whether African-American orCaucasian), personally and professionally.During my career, other women resentedmy “glam” factor, even if I “dressed down”to hide my curves or wore little make-up.

At this point in my life, I am not con-cerned with the perception of others. Iwear what makes ME feel good, whetherit’s a 5” stiletto or the reddest lipstick! I ap-plaud every woman of color who is com-fortable in her own skin, hair and curves!

The world is evolving, and we need toembrace, appreciate, accept and respectour differences. Beauty is, indeed, in theeye of she who holds it!

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Anchorwoman Darieth Chisolm sitsbehind the news desk every night at Pitts-burgh’s NBC affiliate, WPXI Channel 11,where she ties together local and nationalreports with grace and gravity, assuringher place in the pantheon of local mediagreats. In contrast, outside of the news-room, she seldom sits down! Her bound-less energy and desire to promote healthy,active lifestyles led her to found FullbodyFitness Center.

Fullbody Fitness Center is a privatefitness studio that abandons traditionalweight lifting instruction in favor of danceand movement-based fitness programsthat present a non-traditional approach to“working out”.

Chisolm is a long-time health and fit-ness advocate. The busy wife and mom isalso a certified instructor with the Aero-bics and Fitness Association of America,and an avid runner, having completeda full marathon, a half marathon and sev-eral road races.

Chisolm got the idea to start her ownfitness center after years of traveling fromPittsburgh to her hometown of Detroit tovisit a similar center. With the help of hermom, who relocated from Detroit to sup-port her daughter’s vision, and a support-

ive husband, Chisolm found a location,put her plan to work and is now the ownerof one of the most unique fitness facilitiesin Pittsburgh.

At Fullbody Fitness Center, a dedicat-ed team of professionally trained, licensedand certified personal fitness instructorsuse ropes, bands, blocks and techniquesrelated to martial arts to present visitorsan expanded world of new fitness fieldsthat focus on upbeat music, activity andmovement.

Jukari Fit to Flex and Jukari Fit toFly are two fitness programs developedby Reebok in conjunction with Cirque duSoleil that are exclusive to Fullbody Fit-ness Center in the region. They also offerZumba, Yoga, Turbo Kick, Aerial Danceand programs for kids and teens. Chi-solm’s goal is to one day head a franchiseof Fullbody Fitness Center’s throughoutthe country where other women can enjoythe benefits of a fitness center that offersa variety of fitness options that are just asbeneficial as they are fun.

Fullbody Fitness Center is located at4070 Brownsville Rd in Brentwood, Pa,just south of Pittsburgh. You can find outmore about the center at: http://www.full-bodyfitnessclub.com. (412) 692-1600

Anchorwoman Darieth Chisolm’s Fullbody Fitness CenterFrom Television Studio to Fitness Studio

Ola Jackson and Darieth Chisolm

Lewis holds advisory positionswith the Pittsburgh Literacy Coun-cil, the African American LeadershipAssociation (AALA) and New VoicesPittsburgh. She also remains involvedin social organizations that includethe Pittsburgh Chapter of Links, Inc.and the Northeasterners.

Although this keeps her fairlybusy, Lewis makes sure to balance hercivic duties with a significant amountof time devoted to her family and 42-year marriage to Rev. Harold Lewis.She insists that balance is somethingthat is very important to her. As awife and mother, Lewis was able tobe successful working outside of herhome thanks to the dynamics of herhousehold.

When asked what advice shewould give to a married workingwoman who is afraid of losing herselfin her work and marriage, Lewis givesone simple piece of advice; “Make surethat the person you decide to spendthe rest of your life with is the rightperson.”

“My husband and I have what wecall a modern day marriage, in that wehave always tried to share duties,” saidLewis. “The years that I had to traveland stay away, he took on all the re-sponsibility of grocery shopping, playdates and daycare; all of those kind ofthings.”

Lewis attributes her successfultransition from work to retirement toalways taking care of the importantthings. “One of the things that we’vealways tried to do and we have keptvery sacred is that we always take va-cations,” said Lewis.

We’ve all heard the stories aboutthe empty nest syndrome, retirees notknowing what to do with themselvesafter the kids have gone, but that’s notthe case for Lewis. She also makes surethat she stays involved with each newgeneration of dynamic women withher work as a mentor to five youngwomen who are at different levels intheir careers. “One of the things thatI enjoy is that I am able to devote asmuch time as I would like to all thethings that I enjoy,” said Lewis.

Reimagining Retirementcont’d from page 9

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Back Row: Karen Eady Lockett, Bekezela Mguni, Debra Starling Pollard2nd from the Back: Kim Flury, LaKeisha Wolf and Baby Amari, Regina Yasmeen Brown, Celeta Hickman

3rd Row From the Back: Errin Perry and baby Zosha, OIafemi Mandley, Dessie Bey, Laverne Baker Hotep, Tia Baker, Leah Baker Fowler

4th Row from the Back: Maa-t Manker, Beverly Price, Beverly Parker, Von Singletary5th Row from the back: Kitty Ayika, Cayla Easley

The Ujamaa Collective is a non-profit organization made upof women of African descent. These women are entrepreneurs,artisans, artists and community members dedicated to buildingeconomic growth within the Hill District section of Pittsburgh.When founder and interim president Celeta Hickman was firstinspired to create the Ujamaa Collective, she was thinking on aglobal scale. “If we want our children to be entrepreneurs (whoare) serious and ethical about business, and not always dependingon the Western model, we have to be present in the moment andspace so they can see us doing those things,” said Hickman.

The Ujamaa Collective uses the concept of a green market-place to benefit the Hill District, an idea that has been very suc-cessful. Since the organization was founded in 2008, Ujamaa hasparticipated in over one hundred events and programs with orga-nizations in Pittsburgh and surrounding areas.

The women of the Ujamaa Collective manage and operatethe Ujamaa Collective Marketplace, the Ujamaa Boutique anda fifteen-acre urban farm, all servicing the Hill District of Pitts-burgh. “We chose to focus on The Hill because we thought we

Sisters Coming Together for ChangeThe Ujamaa Collective Brings Global Ideas to the MarketplaceBy Allegra Johnson

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B U S I N E S S C E N T E R B U S I N E S S C E N T E R

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Top row (left to right): Darlene Harrison-Nutall, Renita Williams, Diane HarrisonBottom row (left to right): Virginia Means, Nora Johnson

Like most beauty supply stores, whenyou walk into Sisters Beauty Supply indowntown Pittsburgh, you will be greet-ed by a sales associate or the storeowner.However, unlike most beauty supplystores, the owner and employees are allAfrican American.

In 2006, independent filmmaker AronRanen plunged into the world of blackhair care with his YouTube documentary,“Black Hair”. In 2009, actor/comedianChris Rock took a humorous and informa-tive look into black hair with the hit film,Good Hair. It surprised many to learn thatKorean Americans own more than half ofall U.S. beauty supply stores. The beautysupply industry is big business, especiallyin African American communities. Ac-cording to a recent consumer report, blackbuying power is expected to reach $1.1trillion by 2015, with over $7 million to bespent on hair care. Nora Johnson, one ofthe owners of Sisters Beauty Supply, gives

us some insight into the world of blackhair care.

Your store is named “Sisters”. Do you ac-tually work with your family members?

Nora Johnson: Yes, we are sisters;there are five of us. We get along very well.We were all brought up like that and we allhave something we do; my one sister is anaccountant, while another sister does theordering. We have been in business for sixyears.

You are located in downtown Pittsburgh.Tell me about your location and how yougot there.

NJ: We started out on Warrington Av-enue in a little Mom and Pop shop, whichdidn’t do real well. The goal was to eithershut down or move to another location

The Business of BeautyBy Allegra Johnson

cont’d on page 22

Tips on Salon Etiquette

In my 20-plus years of experience asa beauty salon owner, I’ve realized thatonly the professional survive. The turn-over rate  is quitehigh in this indus-try, and salons areopening and clos-ing all the time.If you are good atwhat you do, yourclients may followyou to your nextlocation; however,if you are unsta-ble, you can losemore than yougain.   If you haveprovided salonservices to at least100 guests in a year’s time and still don’thave a strong client base, it could be thatyou lack salon etiquette.

Listed below are key tips for propersalon etiquette: 

• Keep your salon neat & clean, in-cluding your restrooms. Clean yourstation, chair  and sink  betweeneach guest. Do not overlook the im-portance of having a clean sanitaryrestroom. Clients do notice.

• Receptionists and/or Stylists, pleasegreet every guest with a hello anda  warm smile. Do not overbook.Guests don’t appreciate havingto wait a long time before you getstarted on their hair. Give consul-tations to each new guest BEFOREyour assistant shampoos them.

• Do not discuss personal busi-ness matters in front of guests.Don’t gossip with guests or stylists,especially about other clients.

• Remember to reschedule with yourguests at the end of a successful ap-pointment.

You c a n reach Jea n i ne at :[email protected], 412-880-8207.

Jeanine Wilkerson

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In this Q & A with milliner Janis Burley-Wilson, she tells Onyx Woman how she got her start making hats and found suc-cess in a lesser-known side of the fashion industry.

Tell us about your business?I started my business in 1999, but I have been a milliner since

1996.  I started “self-taught” in 1995, then met an older gentle-man in New York City, named Horace Weeks, who had been in business for 40 plus years.  He taught me the classic art of mil-linery, hand-blocking, using vintage equipment, hat blocks and millinery sewing machines.

  Why did you choose this type of business?

I love hats; I love the lost art of millinery. The millinery busi-ness, in the late 19th and early 20th century, was predominantly woman-owned and run.  I am intrigued by the entrepreneur-ial and independent nature of women as it relates to the historyof millinery.  These women were characterized as tough (and)hard-nosed, the type that might not be the “marrying kind”.  Mygrandmother, Lynda Burley, is a master fiber artist, knitting, cro-

cheting, and making GORGEOUSpieces, even now at 93.  My motheris also an artist, who can make al-most anything, without any pat-tern, from impeccably tailored suitsto curtains.  In her 60s, she startedquilting, and had a quilt featured ina few gallery shows.  My father isan engineer, but also a talented art-ist.   I guess I get the desire to cre-ate beautiful things honestly.  Mydaughters are also artistic; one is

an actress (she is 13), one is a very talented cartoonist (she is 14),and my son (who is 5) is an aspiring pianist. I guess the artisticgene is flowing through the family.

What is the best part about doing what you do?Making one-of-a-kind hats that make people stand out, feel

beautiful and express the image the customer wants to present.

What has been the highlight of your experience as an entrepre-neur?  

My hats traveled to France from NYC with fashion editors ofFrench Vogue for a photo shoot. 

Where do you expect to be in 5 years? I’d love to have a boutique where I can sell hats, beautiful

handmade and unique footwear, gloves, and jewelry.

Publisher Ola Jackson wearing Janis’ custom design

Hats Off to Janis Burley-Wilson

cont’d on page 22

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cont’d on page 21

Patrice LeSesneCity of Pittsburgh

Robin GreerSalon Owner, Trevor James Experience Salon

Kimberly Slater-WoodDirector of OutreachPittsburgh Penguins

We bought into a bill of goods thatsaid if women do not meet certain stan-dards of beauty, then we as women of colorare not attractive. Although we come witha broad variety of skin tones, facial fea-tures and hair textures, we have acceptedothers’ views on how we should look anddiluted our own appearance, while othergroups attempted to emulate our charac-teristics. We are not valuing attributes thatother nationalities duplicate via surgeryand other cosmetic procedures.

When we as women of color don’t re-spect ourselves the way we should, othersdon’t value us either. The mainstream fea-tures that define beauty have been pushedon us and we have accepted those attri-

Empowering women to look better onthe inside and out is what I strive to do.One of the biggest issues women of colorface is the refusal to address their problemof weight. That struggle is what promptedme to start my program, called Mirror,Mirror.

Mirror, Mirror inspires women to behealthy while losing or sustaining weight.The members meet once a month. We shoptogether, consult on appropriate eatinghabits, and work out together.

My clients spend money on hair, butoftentimes neglect spending money pur-

butes as ours. It is time for us to promoteour standard of beauty, instead of endors-ing what is promoted to us. We need tolearn to love and accept ourselves as weare.

We also shouldn’t focus so much onexternal features in a constant pursuit ofbeauty. The issues facing women of colorare more significant than the fallaciesthat inform society’s definition of beauty.Beauty is only skin deep.

My personal preference for how I at-tain and sustain my own look is to keepthings simple and natural. We need toknow that what we were given is goodenough.

chasing healthy foods. I have found thatbad eating habits have a lot to do with theiremotions. Therefore, I want them to feelbetter emotionally.

As far as my own image, growing up, Ihated being super skinny and flat-chested.I used to wear two pairs of pants to lookthicker. I have two children and lost theweight after childbirth, but I still need toexercise to stay in shape. I eventually hadto embrace who I was, and now I am veryconfident and work with other women tohelp them do the same.

One of the biggest issues that womenof color face when it comes to our ownperception of beauty is that we allow im-ages in the media, music videos and maga-zines to define what we should look like.

These images often depict women ofcolor with long straight hair, keen noses,and emaciated. Society defines this imageas the essence of beauty.

This reinforcement bombards uswith self-doubt, low self-esteem and di-minished self-confidence, creating a falseperception of who we are. Every woman of

color does not fit into these images. Ourculture plays a vital role in supportingthese attitudes by subconsciously promot-ing and capitalizing on the hype. There areAfrican Americans who determine howwomen of color are portrayed in the me-dia and we, as consumers, naively consentto this damaging portrayal. If we chooseto enhance our beauty, it should be solelyfor self-satisfaction and not to duplicatethe images projected by others. We forget

COVER STORY (cont’d)

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Diane Richard and Maurita Bryant

cont’d on page 22

Pittsburgh Bureau of Police AssistantPolice Chief Maurita J. Bryant and PublicInformation Officer/Spokesperson DianeRichard never imagined that they wouldhave long and enduring careers in law en-forcement.

As women in a male-dominated fieldworking for the same organization, theybecame accustomed to looking out for oneanother as well as supporting the other200 or so female officers and police af-filiates in the Bureau. “In this job, womenhave to support one another,” points outAssistant Chief Bryant, a 35-year veteranof the force. The bond between Bryant andRichard is even stronger because of theirrelationship; they are blood sisters.

Although they did not live in the samehousehold as children, Bryant and Richardgrew closer as they got older. “She is myshero and means everything to me,” saidRichard, who is the younger of the two.With 28 years with the Pittsburgh Bureauof Police, Richard says she has a great dealof admiration for her sister on and off thejob. “She is the epitome of what a profes-sional should be, in uniform and out, butmy sister at home. She’s a fun person. Thatis the part of her people don’t see.”

Concurrent in their descriptions ofone another, Bryant says, “We are com-plete opposites, but we are the same ina lot of ways. I’m plain and a homebody,where Diane is more flashy, outgoing andadventurous.” Jokingly, Richard says, “I’mlooser than she is.”

Bryant, the mother of two adultdaughters, grandmother of four and great-grandmother of three, views the familystructure as very important. “I appreci-ate the bond and connection I have withmy baby sister. I have only loved my mommore,” she said. “We look after one an-other. The bond sisters have is like a gift, atreasure. Sisters not only share blood, butthey share emotions.”

Richard has two adult children, twograndchildren and two great-grand-children. Her role models are two fam-ily members, her sister and grandmother.“My grandmother was a no-nonsensewoman with a soft heart. She took me tochurch and raised me to be who I am now,”she reminisced. “She showed me how goodlife can be.”

Women who have influenced Bryantinclude the late Pittsburgh Police Com-mander Gwen Elliott and Civil Rightsleader Alma Speed Fox. “They are twowomen, sisters, that were and have beenvery supportive of me.” Bryant pointed outthat sisterhood exists in ways other thanblood. “As you go through life you aregoing to meet people that mean differentthings to you,” she explained. She listedthem in three categories; blood sisters,sister-friends and sistas.

“Women need to stick together as sis-ters, no matter what ethnicity,” she said.“Throughout history, women have beenvictimized. We need to be there for eachother, to lift one another up, to be mentorsto younger women.” She pointed out thatwomen have issues and a bond that onlythey can understand. “We have to respectself and each other.” Referring to youngerwomen, she said women have to stop, thinkand realize that we all go through phasesin life. “You can’t get stuck in one phase.”Love, trust, commonality, faith and inclu-sion are how Richard defines sisterhood.

Strong believers in education, the sis-ters are Westinghouse High School gradu-ates with college degrees. Bryant has herBachelor of Science Degree and MastersDegree in Criminal Justice from Point

Sister SheroesPolice Chief Maurita J. Bryant Public Information Officer/Spokesperson Diane Richard By Diane I. Daniels

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| FAMILY FOCUS

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On any given day, patrons at the Wendy’s Restaurant onBaum Boulevard in the Shadyside area of Pittsburgh think theyare seeing double. Sisters Melinda Smalls Glover and Julie Lathamrepeat more times than they care to count that they are individu-als. “People always think we are twins, but we are twins that aren’ttwins,” they joke. Melinda recalls that, growing up in a fam-ily with five female and five male siblings, they were treated liketwins. “We were raised very close. We have always been togethersince the first grade.”

Employed at Wendy’s for over 30 years, Melinda as a managerand Julie as head crew chief, they say they have met many typesof people, some who they have mentored along the way. “Oftenwe have gone into our mother mode where we provide advice,”explained Julie. “We share our experiences and speak from theheart. That is what you call sisterhood in a different way.”

“Melinda is like my oldest daughter,” explains Julie, who isthe younger of the two. “I always look out for her. What I do formy daughters I do for her, even when I shop.” Julie has two daugh-ters and five grandchildren. Melinda has no children. “She hasalways taken care of me, protected me,” admits Melinda. “That’sour bond as sisters.”

To Julie, sisterhood is about love, loyalty, support, sharingand friendship. “It is not about envy. (Our) relationship is built ontrust and confidence. We can talk about everything and know weare not judged.”

“Even though we are family, we are friends,” points out Me-linda. “We know each other very well; our love is unconditionaland always there. We accept each other for who we are.”

“Sisterhood is women sticking together, sharing, and respect-ing one another,” says Melinda. “We have to feed off of each other,to connect, to know that being friends does not mean putting la-bels on everything and everyone.”

“Learning to be real with self and others is imperative. Com-plimenting one another and uplifting is what friendship is about,”adds Julie. Both ladies find themselves mentoring through workand church, when and where it is necessary.

They maintain that working within an industry with flexibleschedules has helped, allowing them to live the lives they wanted:for Julie to raise her children and for Melinda to travel. They relishthe opportunity to experience other segments of life that God hasin store for them.

Julie, who Melinda describes as a thinker and very creative,hopes to continue her hobbies of photography and scrapbooking.“I have a love for what I do. Right now, I take pictures for mychurch and at events for friends. It is a joy and love that I takepride in.”

Melinda, the intuitive one, hopes to expand her fashionwardrobe coordination business, Inside Out. “I come to yourhome and work with the apparel and accessories that you have,”she explained.

Graduates of Westinghouse High School, the sisters value therelationship they developed at a young age. “Whether it is sistersor people you have met along the way, friendships are a valuablecommodity,” said Julie.

“Often, friends you meet along the way are like sisters. It’sabout unconditional love,” said Melinda. “You know when it isreal. The love is always there.”

Sister…Friend…Sistah FriendsColleagues in work and life, sisters Melinda Glover and Julie Latham reflect on the many sides of sisterhoodBy Diane I. Daniels

Melinda Glover and Julie Latham

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| FAMILY FOCUS

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Tammy Press, Tina Patterson, Sonya Alleynes, Nadine Thompson, Lisa Harper, Bonita Brown, Caira Temple, Ola Jackson, Catherine Woods, Stephanie Mass, Jackie Alexander

Founders Nthabi Ledwaba and Lisa Harper

| DESTINATIONS

Women Collaborate in South Africa To Achieve Women’s Empowerment By Ola Jackson

It started out as a vision; a vision thatwas to expand across the sea to the moth-erland of South Africa. Visionaries, Afri-can-American entrepreneur Lisa Harperand South African businesswoman Ntha-bi Ledwaba, came together to launch adream that would unite women businessleaders from both sides of the world.

Together, they created the AfricanAmerican & South African Women En-trepreneurs Empowerment Forum (AAS-WEE). Lisa gathered up businesswomenfrom across America, and Nthabi tappedinto her professional contacts in SouthAfrica to hatch a plan that would be theblueprint for this project.

I was fortunate enough to be one ofseveral delegates selected to travel on an18-hour journey to Johannesburg to laythe foundation for this endeavor. The oth-er women, who came from various cities,had a diversity of backgrounds and offereda broad range of expertise.

Held at the Fairway Hotel in Johan-nesburg, the theme for the two-day forumwas “Accentuating and Identifying Areasof Achieving Women’s Empowermentand Collaboration”. The goal was to bringwomen business leaders together to ex-change information on collaborating andbuilding business relationships betweenwomen on both sides of the Atlantic.

Some of the topics covered included:brand building, developing female entre-preneurship, obtaining contracts, net-working, and being socially responsible inour professional and business endeavors.

The three-day excursion consisted ofluncheons and fabulous dinners at a res-taurant called The Lighthouse: Afropo-litian Lifestyle, which is owned by SouthAfrican businesswoman Bongi Mthembu.Other gatherings offered us the opportu-nity to learn more about the country, theculture, and the ways both groups operateand deal with the trials and tribulations ofmaking success happen. There are moresimilarities than there are differences.

Our African counterparts are driven, te-nacious, and ambitious.

As a result of Lisa and Nthabi’s efforts,we have since forged collaborations andshared experiences that both groups ofwomen agree will have a long-lasting andfar-reaching impact. Months later we stillcommunicate with one another, and therehave been several business relationshipsestablished between the South African andAfrican-American delegates. Nthabi hassince visited America to explore the possi-bility of attending one of our universities.

What stood out most to me was howwell the women worked together. It was apart of African life that we don’t normally

see on television or even read about. Thebusiness owners in South Africa were justas multifaceted as those in America. Theysold makeup and owned spas, retail estab-lishments, and upscale restaurants.

Lisa’s vision includes taking this showon the road to other African countries tosee what women are doing across the con-tinent. Lisa says, “The future of the orga-nization is to expand it to other Africanand Caribbean countries, and to includean element for girls’ empowerment.”

Go to our website to see the many tal-ented presenters from both America andSouth Africa. (www.ownonyxwomannet-work.tv)

Page 18 Onyx Woman® Volume 20, Special Beauty Edition

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OWN®Onyx Woman Network

21 Years

ownonyxwomannetwork.tvOnline Radio Show

Social Network Website:Over 1410 members

(412) 731-5159

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Marcia Martincont’d from page 8

Naturally Speakingcont’d from page 9

Today the resurgence in popularity of natural hair is likely to be less political and more for more holistic, health and eco-nomic reasons. But the presence of natu-ral tresses in universities and boardrooms across America does not mean that going

au naturale in the workplace, in our “post-racial” nation, is not without its kinks.

Here, Kristin Freeland, a finalist in the Miss Nappturality 2012 contest, shares her story of transition, naturally speaking.

1. Have you always worn your hair natu-ral?  If not, why? If so, did you ever feel pressured to “assimilate” and change your hair texture?

I went natural in September of 2010.  Up until then, I had always worn my hair straight and since 7th grade with the aid of a relaxer.  Honestly, my mother (talk show host Lynne Hayes-Freeland) and I spent 20 years figuring out how to get and keep my hair straight. My natural texture never even seemed like an option because basi-cally everyone I knew or looked up to had straight hair.  The decision to go natural was really motivated by my desire to color my hair. I never planned on embracing my curl, I just wanted to limit the amount of chemicals on my hair and I figured blow-outs and flat irons would still give me the look I wanted without a relaxer.  About four months into transitioning, I started to realize my natural hair actually had a

receive the money for the state-run health exchange. If we don’t participate in that health exchange, the federal government will actually come in and run it. 

OW: So many people are uninsured. What options do people have right now if they need non-emergency care?

MM: The number of uninsured Amer-icans is growing, but there are places that people can go—they just don’t have the information. One example—federally qualified health care centers. Right here in Pittsburgh, there are programs for the un-insured through Catholic Charities, which I sit on the board of. There is a free health care center that also provides dental. The other issue is that a lot of people just don’t trust the health care system. Many people who have not had traditional health care tend to use the emergency room as their health care provider. That is not the best health care option.

OW: When we talk about the impor-tance of staying healthy, why is it so impor-

tant for women of color? Is there any truth to the idea that Black women are unfit be-cause we don’t want to work out and mess up our hair?

MM: Well, that is definitely one rea-son. You also find fewer women of color swimming, and swimming is one of the best exercises. People need to ask them-selves, “Do I want to look cute or do I want to be healthy?” Women could just wear a different hairstyle for exercising, but people aren’t always willing to make that compromise. And when we talk about ex-ercise for young girls, young women these days are much too overweight. Diabetes is starting at a much younger age. From the day you start to walk, you should just keep exercising…forever!

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receive encouragement to work through our issues and are pressured to hold our-selves up to some man-made interpreta-tion of how and what our Christian walk should be. I’ve seen many young women sink into despair pretending to be some-thing they weren’t to get the ‘nod’ of ap-proval from church mothers who long forgot any struggles they may have had in their own quest for righteousness.

The reason we mask ourselves and the truth about ourselves is because we don’t believe that we will be accepted as we are. WE believe that we are unacceptable; and WE believe this because WE DO NOT ac-cept ourselves. We do accept the faults others find in us, and we start to believe that we are the sum total of those faults and nothing more. We fail to realize that the very people we are trying to impress are themselves flawed!! Only by facing that fact, can we begin to drop our masks.

Spiritual Notescont’d from page 5

Kimberly Slater-Woodcont’d from page 15

Naturally Speakingcont’d from page 20

defined curl pattern, and from there, I was hooked.  It took me about eight months of transitioning and product experimenta-tion before I was ready for my “big chop”, and once I did, there was no turning back.  I’ll be celebrating my two-year natural an-niversary this September, and it is, without a doubt, the best thing I have ever done for my hair.

2. What were your reasons for wearing your hair natural?

My initial motivation was curiosity. With the exception of a few drastic hair-cuts, I had always worn my hair long and straight, and the possibility of big curly hair excited me.  It was also seeing my hair in a different way—truly embracing the way it grows out of my head and recog-nizing that other people were embracing it, too.  The part of the journey that has been the most encouraging, and initially surprising, is the support of other people.  It’s funny that I spent 20 years trying to change my hair to “fit in” and now that I’ve finally let it do it’s own thing, I feel more accepted than ever.

3. Did you ever feel as though your employment was contingent upon your choice of hairstyle?

I’m an interior designer working in a corporate setting, so I kind of have a little of both extremes. There is the bold expres-sive world of design, where everyone is aiming to be unique and memorable, in which case, a head full of kinky curls is an asset.  On the flip side, there’s the blue, gray and beige of corporate America where, ad-mittedly, I sometimes stick out like a sore thumb. The lesson I’ve learned is  to wear my hair like it’s my favorite accessory. Be-cause I have embraced it and confidently wear it, even the most conservative of crowds has come to embrace it too.  At the end of the day, the last thing I want to do at work is blend in. So, if my big natural hair gives me a boost in standing out, I’m quite alright with that.

4. Has your hairstyle helped or hindered your career or impacted your chosen profession?

I credit my natural hair with a boost in self-confidence and a step toward defining who I am and how I want to present myself to the world.  I think that has had a posi-

that we are beautifully-made by God and that it is a blessing to be a woman of color.Women of color are blessed with beautiful, striking and exotic features. It is interest-ing and humorous that a society that once loathed and mocked our full lips, full-size breasts and plump derrières, now em-brace and obsess over features associated with our appearance. Many are paying a big buck to acquire what God gave us for free!My features have had a positive impact

on my life, but I have been in uneasy situ-ations because of my appearance. I have been prejudged and categorized unfairly. The good news is that I am sustained by my confidence, assurance and certainty of knowing that God created me - a beautiful woman of color.

tive impact in all areas of my life, career included. Although the African-American presence in my office is limited, I would estimate that at least half of us are wearing natural hair and have yet to feel hindered by it.  I think the important thing is that you are capable and confident. That’s what impresses your peers and superiors.  My hair is a part of me. I’d like to think that any point in my career would be one filled with people who can accept that. 

5. Any hair regrets?My only regret would be not going

natural sooner!

6. Words of advice for professional women of color contemplating change of hair texture?

As someone who transitioned from straight, relaxed hair to natural in a corpo-rate setting, I think the hardest part of the process is the transition and finding ways to make your hair look good every step of the way.  Protective styles like twists, bantu knots and twist-outs are healthy ways to style your multi-textured hair and still keep it looking professional.  Hair and product experimentation are a big part of the transitioning stage. For me, I left the experiments for the weekend and relied on staple styles, like a 2-strand twist-out, during the week so I knew I’d have no hair surprises or failures on a workday morn-ing.  It’s inevitable that people will ask about and admire your new look--be open and honest.  I’ve found that most often, it’s just curiosity and, like most things, the more people understand something, the more they can appreciate it.  More than anything, it’s about confidence.  If you wear your hair like it’s the best thing that’s ever happened to you, people will notice, and before long they will be believers too. 

Ujamaa Collectivecont’d from page 12

would make the most impact on young people, particularly young African-Amer-ican women,” Hickman explained.

She said her inspiration for the servic-es provided by Ujamaa were based on glob-al ideas. “We thought about how market-women in Africa and the Caribbean make money a very vital and engaging exchange, and we’ve done that.” The Ujamaa Collec-tive has also launched entrepreneurial pro-grams that support the needs of women of African descent in the Pittsburgh area. It is very important to Hickman that women work together to share common resources. In the beginning, the Ujamaa Collective was supported by a core group of women who believed in her vision. That vision has grown into an organization that brings women together to build and sustain the community at large.

“We’ve got to make sure, as sisters, that we are coming together on a serious

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Sister Sheroescont’d from page 22

Hats Offcont’d from page 14

tip, to build wealth for our people and our nation,” said Hickman. “It makes no sense that they don’t control their own resources and sometimes our steady, quiet power is overlooked for the larger and more aggres-sive power of men.”

The women of the Ujamaa Collective created the popular Ujamaa Collective Marketplace that operates from spring to early fall; however, the boutique is a year-round endeavor. Celeta says the boutique was never on the agenda for the Ujamaa Collective. “We didn’t imagine the bou-tique, but we had to have a place for the off-season,” she explained. “Now artisans from the region who are of African de-scent can consign items or sell them to us wholesale.” The boutique carries jewelry, ethnic clothing and fabric, as well as home décor and fine art.

The Ujamaa Collective is an extraor-dinary example of how black women can come together to build and sustain com-munities. On the growth and success of Ujamaa Collective, Hickman sums it up best; “My mother, God rest her soul, told me that when sisters come together, we can change the weather.”

How do you define success?Success is covering your costs and

investment; having someone wear your hat and others know that it is your work; continuing to improve your technique and progress in your field.  Staying put is safe.  Advancement is imperative, or (the work) just simply becomes something to do.

 What advice would you give to others about pursuing their dreams? 

Keep learning, asking questions. Travel wherever you need to, to get the experience, and be appreciative of time that people spend helping you move for-ward towards pursuing your dreams. Give that time back when you can.  Always be “ready” and “willing” to take advantage of an opportunity. 

 How does your business affect your fam-ily, if at all? 

When my children were small, my parents kept my children while I traveled to NYC to work as an apprentice with Hor-ace Weeks, and to intern with (fashion de-signer) Norma Kamali.  If I didn’t have that

Business of Beautycont’d from page 13

and in 2008, one of my sisters found the downtown location.

What about the customers? How has the response been since you moved down-town?

NJ: We get a lot of support from black customers. Our customer base is eighty/twenty, eighty percent being African American and twenty being Caucasian. Some African American customers are very hard on black-owned businesses, al-most as if they have a prejudice against black-owned businesses. Sometimes we have to go above and beyond the call of duty to get their support. For example, there was a young lady in the store the oth-er day who was trying to buy Remy weave hair and there was another young lady behind her who had never shopped at Sis-ter’s before. The young lady who had never been in the store was saying, “Oh my God, I can’t believe how high your prices are.” I would have said to that young lady, “Have

support, it wouldn’t have been possible to learn and meet the people that helped me acquire my experiences. On another note, my children might prefer to use the din-ing room table to eat, rather than have the table covered by my hats, feathers and rib-bons.

What advice would you give to other women about getting into the beauty industry? 

Do what you love. If you don’t, you will regret it for the rest of your life, and that’s a long time to look back and wish you had done something else.

Janis Burley is also Vice President and Director of Jazz Programs for the Pittsburgh Cultural Trust.

Ujamaa Collectivecont’d from page 21 you purchased everything in the store to

make that statement?”

What are your thoughts about so many African Americans being left out of the black hair care industry?

NJ: Well, first of all, it’s very hard to get into the business. It’s hard for two reasons; first, some of the Korean beauty supply stores have called my suppliers and told them to stop selling to me and, if they didn’t, they would stop buying from them. Another reason is it costs so much. And then you have to get the black communi-ty to support you; if they don’t, then you don’t have a business.

Every year, during Black History Month, your store has a fun Black History trivia game. Why is it so important to bring that element into the store?

NJ: I think Black History is very im-portant. It doesn’t matter what type of hair we’re wearing; we are still black and we don’t need to lose that. We already have lost our hair texture; we don’t need to lose our black history knowledge too.

Park University. She is a graduate of the 218th session of the FBI National Acad-emy in Quantico, Virginia and a gradu-ate from the Police Executive Research Forum’s Senior Management Institute for Police in Boston, Massachusetts.

Richard received a Bachelor of Arts degree in Communications from the Uni-versity of Pittsburgh, as well as an Associ-ate of Arts Degree in Specialized Business and Retail Management from Wheeler College. She also possesses other impres-sive law enforcement certifications and credentials.

Bryant is also National President of the National Organization of Black Law Enforcement Executives (NOBLE), and will be hosting the 37th Annual Confer-ence & Exhibition in Pittsburgh in August 2013. The mission of NOBLE is to ensure equity in the administration of justice in the provision of public service to all com-munities, and to serve as the conscience of law enforcement by being committed to justice by action.

Bryant and Richard recognize that they could not have achieved any of the above-mentioned success without the sup-port of many people. They maintain the significance and importance of having a sister or sista to lean on. Both women mentor extensively and are involved in numerous organizations and hold vari-ous positions. “We are lucky because we have each other. Not everyone has what we have,” expressed Richard.

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