old cottages farm houses and other half-timber buildings in 1000189191

7/27/2019 Old Cottages Farm Houses and Other Half-Timber Buildings in 1000189191

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OLD COTTAGES,FARM HOUSES, AND

OTHER HALF-TIMBER BUILDINGS

IN SHROPSHIRE, HEREFORDSHIRE,AND CHESHIRE

ILLUSTRATED ON ONE HUNDRED PLATES

REPRODUCED IN COLLOTYPE FROM

A SPECIAL SERIES OF PHOTOGRAPHSTAKEN BY

JAMES PARKINSONArchitectural Woodworker.

WITH INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE NOTES

AND NUMEROUS SKETCHES

By E. a. OULD, F.R.I.B.A.

LONDON:B. T. BATSFORD, 94 HIGH HOLBORN

1904


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BARNICOTT AND PEARCE

PRINTERS


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PREFACE

a book he is usuallypublic as may go the

oceed to read it. But

ippressed by an uneasyParkinson's seductive

he majority of readers,le subjects here repre-rn way, and will con-t

an impertinence.t to the more serious

iely the characteristicsastern Counties, and toid-white buildings ineven the unthinking

amateur may find his imagination quickened and his interestheightened by hearing something about the construction ofthese examples, the materials employed, and the colouringproduced, from one who has studied nearly every subjectupon the spot. So I will take heart and proceed to addressmy small but select audience, and to invite them to tollow

me from Shrewsbury southwards, through Much Wenlock

NOTE.

Plate 40 is selected for the Frontis-iece,

and is bound in the front of the

iiook, but is referred to in the text andList of Illustrations under its propernumber.

Plate 3 (title of): /or "in the HighStreet, Shrewsbury," read "in Frankwell,Shrewsbury."

Plate 4 (title of): /or "The CourtHouse. Shrewsbury," read " (late of the(Jouncil House, Shrewsbury."

" J


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BARN ICO

I


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PREFACE.

When an author sits down to write a book he is usuallyjustified in assuming that such of the public as may go thelength of purchasing his work will proceed to read it. Butin the present instance the writer is oppressed by an uneasysuspicion that the attractions of Mr. Parkinson's seductivephotographs will prove sufficient for the majority of readers,who will be content to let the venerable subjects here repre-ented

tell their own tale in their own way, and will con-iderthe presence of a showman almost an impertinence.

It may, nevertheless, be of interest to the more seriousstudent to consider a little more closely the characteristicsof the timber architecture of these Western Counties, and tocompare them with those of black-and-white buildings inother parts of the country ; while even the unthinkingamateur may find his imagination quickened and his interestheightened by hearing something about the construction ofthese examples, the materials employed, and the colouringproduced, from one who has studied nearly every subjectupon the spot. So I will take heart and proceed to addressmy small but select audience, and to invite them to followme from Shrewsbury southwards, through Much Wenlock


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vi PREFACE.

and Ludlow to Stokesay, and from thence through thebeautitul by-ways of Herefordshire, until they terminate atLedbury on the borders of Worcestershire, and afterwardsto turn back and explore the broad plains of Cheshire,where black-and-white houses of all sorts and sizes are as

common as the magpies which they so much resemble.

E. A. OULD.

Liverpool, May, 1904.,


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LIST OF PLATES

ARRANCJED ALPHABETICALLY UNDER TOWNS AND

VILLAGES IN EACH COUNTY.

SH%0PSH1R6.

BEWDLEY, Cottage atBRIDGENORTH, Bishop Percy's HouseBROMFIELD, Cottages at

The Priory Gate-house

CLEVEDON, Cottage atCRAVEN ARMS, House at

,, ,,(back of)

,,A demolished House from

CRESSAGE, House at.

DODMORE FARM, near LudlowLUDFORD HOUSE

,, ,,Bay oy

,,The Bell Inn

LUDLOW, House in Street

,,Lane's Asylum

,,The Reader's House

See DODMORE FARM.

MUCH WENLOCK, House at.

Houses and Shops

Plate

1 1

9

1920

10

14

1516

18

21, 22

2728

26

24

23

25

56


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Vlll LIST OF PLATES.

MUCH WENLOCK, A Corner House.

"The Abbot's House

PITCHFORD HALL, A Gable-End fromRICHARD'S CASTLE, Farm-house at

.

SHREWSBURY, House in Butcher Row"

House in High Street

,,Shops in Butcher Row

"The Court House

STOKESAY CASTLE, The Gate-houseWORFIELD, Cottages at

Plate

78

1729

2

3I

41312

HS%6F011DSHIRS." BuTTAs " Falconry, See WEOBLY.CHOLSTREY, Farm-house at .EARDISLAND, The Old RectoryEARDISLEY, Cottages at

. . .

"House at

.

FENHAMPTON, near WEOBLY, Farm-house atHEREFORD, Hall of the Butchers' GuildLEOMINSTER, "The Grange"LUNTLEY, NEAR PEMBRIDGE, Farm-house at

"The Dovecote

LEDBURY, Clerks' Houses"

Houses in Church Row

"The Market Hall

.

LITTLE HEREFORD, Cottages at.

MIDDLEBROOK FARM, near PEMBRIDGE ."

Farm Buildings at ."

Cottages at .

394054S568

693852537071

7273474849


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LIST OF PLATES.

ORLETON COURTCottage in a Lane

.

Farm Buildings at .House in Main StreetOld House atRoadside House nearThe Church Porch

""The Seven Gables"

PEMBRIDGE, Cottages at

"

"5

""

J"

J)

J"

Farm-house atHouses at Entrance to VillageThe Village StreetSee LUNTLEY.See MIDDLEBROOK.

WEOBLY, Cottages atHouses called "The Rows "

Houses in StreetOld School House

,, "The Porch

"TheButtas" Falconry"The Leys" Farm

.

" "Doorway

See FENHAMPTON.WIGMORE, View in the Village

IX

Plate3034363331353132

43, 50, 5144" 45, 46

" 4-, 4341

67

CH6SHIR6.

ALDERLEY EDGE, Cottages at" "

Farm-house at.

" "The Eagle and Child Inn

8380


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X LIST OF PLATES.

ALSAGER, See HASLINGTON HALLADLINGTON, Porch of the Hall

BRAMHALL, Parts of the HallCHESTER, House in Whitefriars

"The Stanley Palace

DUDDON HALL, A GableDUTTON HALL, The Porch

.

GAWSWORTH HALL

HANDFORTH HALL .HASLINGTON HALL, near ALSAGERLOWER GARDEN HALL

MIDDLEWICH OLD HALL.

MARTON, The Church

"The Hall

" "back view

MORETON OLD HALL, The Gate-housePRESTBURY, The Priest's HouseSANDBACH, The Boar InnSTANLEY HALL

SWINYARD OLD HALL

WELTROUGH HALLWOODFORD, The Old Hall

Plate

92

93' 94

74

75

7695

90

7899

77

96, 978788

89100

86

9879

85

9184


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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.

Houses in Butchers' Row, ShrewsburyPlan of Bay Window at Ludford HouseDoor of the Hall of the Butchers' Guild, HerefordOriel Window at the Hall of the Butchers' Guild

.

A Column from the Market Hall, LedburyBracket from Cholstrey

....

Detail of Beam from PembridgeDoorway at Middlebrook, with detailsA Beam from Middlebrook

Bargeboards from MiddlebrookAn Oriel Window at EardisleyPlan and Section of the Oriel shown on previous fio;.A Bargeboard near EardisleyWindows from Church Street, LedburyPlaster Gable at Whitefriars, ChesterDetail of Porch at Handforth HallEmbossed Lead Spout from Eagle and Child, Akierley EdgeSection ot the Lead Spout shewn in previous fig.A Cottage at Alderley EdgeDetail of Beam from Stanley Hall, CheshirePlan of Bays at the Priest's House, PrestburyLead Glazing at the Priest's House, PrestburyDoor at Marton Church with detail

Doorway from Marton Hall

Page4

1316

1718

19

19

20

21

21

22

23

24

2728

3031

3132

3334

343536


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INTRODUCTION

IN studying the Timber Architedlure ot these three counties, themost ordinary observer cannot fail to be struck by the differencein general effect, which is apparent between it and the treatment ofsimilar materials, in the Southern and Western Counties, and a com-arison

of our examples with those in Messrs. Galsworthy Davieand Guy Dawber's charming book,* will illustrate and display thesedistindions convincingly. These may be partly due to differencesof climate and surroundings, the sunshine of the South and therainfall of the West laying on their colours and textures verydifferently in the way of weathering and vegetation, but the habitand fashion of the architefture and construftion contribute still moreto the widely different result. But when this has been granted andwe begin to generalize, we are met by all sorts of difficulties andparadoxes, one of which is, that we occasionally meet with anexample in the Western Counties which might have been trans-orted

bodily from Kent or Sussex, while a few of the better manorhouses in those counties exhibit features and ornament which we

assume to belong exclusively to the West. This may of course bethe result of accident or may have arisen from an interchange ofarchiteds, but in the following remarks we must be understood to

" Old Cottages and Farmhouses in Kent and Sussex, by W. Galsworthy Davie and E. GuyDawber. Batstord, 1900.

B


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2 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.

be enunciatingonly very broad rules and general principles. In theWest we think it will be found that the timbers are largerand moremassive and the overhangs consequently bolder, while the detail ofthe moulded parts is less elaborate and coarser, and the carving as arule more primitive. The lavish and sometimes wasteful use oftimber is accounted for by the existence of the large forests whichare known to have flourished in these three counties, at a safe dis-ance

from the iron-smeltingworks which depleted the woodlandsof Sussex, and the ship-buildingyards of the South, which took thebest of the timber available,when "Hearts of oak were our ships."The remoteness of these districts and the absence of roads, navigablerivers and other means of communication with the outer world, whileconserving their supply of timber deprived them of the assistanceof foreign carvers and craftsmen and of designersfrom a distance,whose work is discernible in the early buildings of the homecounties. Again, the sculptureand carving on the timber buildingswe are considering,although more plentifulnd elaborate,ere notusuallythe work of trained artists,but the simple,traditional,but,(very often), most effeftive ornament of the village carpenter.There are marked exceptions to this rule, for the carving on thebeams of Stokesay Gate House, (Platexiii),nd the Reader's Houseat Ludlow, (Platexxv), will compare favourablywith anything ofthe kind remaining in England. But by far the most marked char-cteristic

of Western design,is the elaboration of ornamental formsin the timber work itself,and this is more apparent the furthernorth you travel, and culminates in the multitudinous forms andingenious devices appearing in the framing of the Manor Houses ofCheshire and Lancashire " regions which were the last to emergefrom the semibarism of the Middle Ages, (PlatesIxxviii,Ixxxv, andxcix). These designsand patterns were contrived by using the bentand twisted piecesof wood, obtained from the smaller branches, and


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IN SHROPSHIRE, HEREFORDSHIRE " CHESHIRE. 3disposing of them in the panels formed by the uprights and crossrails, so as to present a regular and repetitionaryattern, whethercircular,quatrefoil,r lozenge. Plates Ixxviii and Ixxxiii gives ex-mples

of all varieties. This method of decoration is sometimesmet with in the South-Eastern counties, as at Mayfield and GreatTangley Manor and elsewhere, but it is quite the exception,and itis difficult to say why it was so very generallyadopted in the West.It may have been the natural love of ornament and want of restrauit

in a less civilised people,but againstthis may be urged the faft thatthe later the date of the building the more elaborate the designappears to be : or possiblythe builders thought that this constantstruttingmade the building more rigidand better able to resist themore frequentgalesin the West ; but more probably it was suggestedby the trees themselves, which, bent and distorted by the force ofthis constant wind, suppliedmany more crooked than straightimbers.

It has been computed that the greater part of the timber cottagesin England were built between a.d. 1558 and a.d. 1625, the lastfiftyyears of this period being far the most produdlive,but in thedistrifts under review many houses remdn which date from thefifteenth century, such as Butcher Row at Shrewsbury, and thehouses called " The Rows," at Weobly, (Platesi and Ixi),while theuse of timber in the construftion of cottages and farm buildings ex-ended

well into the eighteenthcentury in the West, where theDutch forms and methods of " Queen Anne " architedture wereslow to establish themselves.

The fa" that so few cottages remain of the fourteenth and fifteenthcenturies and the first half of the sixteenth, is partlyto be accountedfor by the natural decay which has graduallyswept them away, andpartlythat the shocking mortality of the Black Death rendered thebuilding of new cottages unnecessary for many years afterwards :also previous to the Reformation most of the labourers on the land


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OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.were accommodated in conventual buildings and outhouses, or be-eath

the roofs of the great lord or

land-owner, while the numerous hospi-als,bede or alms-houses afforded shelter

to a largenumber more. But when thechange of ownership came at the Refor-ation,

an immense impetus was givento agriculture,nd the buildingof cot-ages

became a necessity,s the formershelters and asylums had disappeared.

The system ot buildingwith timberhas often been described, and it doesnot appear to have differed greatly indifferent counties. Stout oak sills arelaid horizontallyupon a low wall ofstone or brick and into these are tenoned

1^'~' 1^-'- ' f:',^g upright posts, the larger ones beingplaced at the external an-les.

Upon these uprightposts, horizontal heads are

placedjust below the levelof the chamber floor, andthe intervening spacesformed into panels withthinner pieces,the wholebeing framed and tenonedtogether and pinned withoak pins. The joists ofthe floor are then laid, rest-ng

upon the horizontalheads and frequentlybeing

HOUSES IN BUTCHER S ROW,SHREWSBURY.


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slates, much heavier than the thin Horsham stone slates of Kent

and Sussex. A good many of them are now covered with tiles, butthis is probably not the original covering, as tiles were little used inEngland until the seventeenth century, owing to the scarcity ofcoal and the difficulty of burning them. For the same reasonbricks were not employed extensively in England for buildingbefore Henry VIII's reign, except in districts where no stone couldbe procured.

The chimneys are generally of stone, and they are less elaborateand architediural than those in the South. The shafts have often

been rebuilt in brick, and those appearing on the ridge of the build-ng

are generally ot that material. The massive external chimneysare nearly always connected with baking ovens with picfluresque flagor tile roofs, and together they form valuable features in the generaloutline.


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DESCRIPTIVE NOTES ON THE PLATES.

THE importance of Shrewsbury historically and politically, andas occupying a prominent position upon both the Severn andthe great North Road from London, would prepare us for the numberand richness of its buildings and for the refinement displayed in theirdetails. The corner house in Butcher Row, Plate i and Figure i,is one ot the earliest timber buildings in the country, being purelyGothic in character.

_

It probably dates from the early part of the"fifteenth century, and is a most interesting example of the open shop-front of medieval times, of which there are many specimens remain-ng

on the Continent. The carved and richly panelled angle posts onboth floors have carried their burden bravely these 500 years, andneither they nor the woodwork generally shew any sign of decay.

The little building further down the same street, Plate ii, is alsoa marvel construftionally, the two slender brackets supporting theweight of two full storeys, and demonstrating once more what oakis capable of when applied scientifically.

Plate iii shews a building in the High Street which has some purelySalopian features. To divide the plaster panels with balusters in-tead

of with upright timbers is a common device in Shrewsbury, buta very rare one outside it. It may often be noticed that an old

town acquires a trick or habit of this sort, which it loves to repeatwith many variations. First discovered accidentally by the fillingup of some balcony or balustrade, the builder has been struck by the


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8 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.excellence of the effeft produced, and has repeated it elsewhere.Nuremberg, Rothenburg, Dordrecht and Lisieux have all littlefashions of their

own.The Court House, (Plateiv),has similar balusters to the foregoing,

under the upper window, and the pediment over the lower windows,together with the carving and mouldings, herald the approach of theRenaissance. The gradual but complete change which took placeinQueen Elizabeth's reignin the detail and design of timber buildings,without departing from the medieval methods of construction, canfurther be traced in the Ley's Farm and the StanleyPalace,Chester,(PlatesIvii,Iviii and Ixxvi).Notwithstanding its new fashioned classicdress, this Shrewsbury courtyardand massive gateway are reminiscentof the gate-houses and fortified enclosures of not yet forgottenmediaeval times.

Much Wenlock nestles in a valleyamong the hills of which theWrekin is the best known. The Roman town of Uriconium is notfar off,and the ancient name of the mountain is the root from whichboth the Roman colony and the Saxon town of Wrekinchester orWroxeter took their names. A religiousouse was built at Wenlockin earlytimes, and after the destruftive incursion of the Danes, itwas rebuilt by Lady Godiva and her Earl Leofric, when Edwardthe Confessor was king. The Norman builders continued the goodwork, and for 400 years it was the richest and most important abbeyin Shropshire.

The Abbot's House (Plate viii)is one of the most perfed:ex-mplesof its kind, and it is still tenanted and beautifullykept up.

The picturesquebell-turret is of timber framing, which is our onlyexcuse for giving this seduftive view to our readers. Dominatedby the ruined abbey, the little town seems to seek its protedtionincharming dependence, and numerous timber buildingsabound. Thethree we have selefted are typicalexamples.


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IN SHROPSHIRE. 9The first,Plate v, is built upon the ruins of the old conventual

buildings,probably the tithe-barn. The timber structure is delight-ullypromiscuous and unsymmetrical, but wholly satisfadtory.hetimbering of the gable is quite unique in arrangement but stricftlv

construftional. Partly flaggedand partlytiled, as a pieceof colourit is wonderful, especiallywhen the autumn tints have fired theVirginiacreeper.

The next, (Platevi),shews a house in a main street which mightwell serve as a model for modern street architediure,as it furnishesexcellent shop fronts,and a covered porch on the ground floor,andcosy deep-recessedbay windows and a balcony on the first floor,where the front wall is set back. With flower boxes on the balcony,what a rich note ot colour might be given to the street. The non-construftional ornamentation of the bay fronts marks a late periodand the first sign ot decadence.Very different in the latter resped is the third example,(Platevii),the very perfeftionf simplicity. The builder of this little cornerhouse put in windows where he wanted light,and timber strutswhere they could best do their work, and he left its fate to Provi-ence

and its decoration to Time (the one to preserve it,and theother to adorn it),and the result to-day only shews us how wellboth have served him.

As a contrast, the house at Bridgenorth of Bishop Percy, thewriter of the Reliques,s valuable,(Plateix). Tradition says that hewas born here, but it seems more likelythat he built it in his laterprosperous days,when he, the son of a Bridgenorth grocer, changedhis father's name of Piercyfor the more aristocratic Percy. Althoughsomewhat showy and overdone, it is a fine example, and carries itsyears lightly; but if all three dormers had followed the design of theone to the right,the effed; would have been more peacefuland lessfrivolous,as becomes the house of a bishop.

c


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lo OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.

In marked contrast once more are Plates x, xi and xii, simpleShropshire cottages, never, most likely, having known the blessingsof a father, in the shape of an architedt ; but having been born ofthat great Mother, necessity,and clothed with whatever materialswere most handy, they were left to shift for themselves. Scarcelyworth perpetuating,you will say ; but as studies of buildingssuitingto perfed:iontheir site and surroundings, they are worth, we think,more than passing notice.

Plate xiii shews perhaps the most beautiful gatehouse in theworld" none the less beautiful for having been drawn and photo-raphed

oftener than any professionalbeauty ; but any notice oftimber architedlure in Shropshire would be incomplete without atleast one view of this patheticmonument. Mr. Parkinson seems tohave quitecaught the spiritof the original,nd has given enough ofthe surroundings to shew how perfectlyit suits them. Originallythe castle of the great familv of the Says, the Norman lords ofStoke, Stokesay stands, with its gatehouse, its grey towers and itsparishchurch, as complete, deserted and solitary,s the group of hoarybuildings known as Pisa, which once seen can never be forgotten.

The house at Craven Arms, illustrated on Plates xiv and xv, pro-ucedan impression upon us which the photographs seem hardly tojustify,ut grouping and perfectcolouring are, after all,as important

as richness of detail,and if your imagination can replacethe goodold windows, you will, as it were, restore eyeballso the sightlessace.

The second house at Craven Arms, Plate xvi, has alas disappeared,but by the courtesy of Mr. Harper, the local photographer, we areallowed to reproduce this pifture,which he took before its demoli-ion.It was a very beautiful example, and its disappearance is asad loss to the neighbourhood.

A study of Pitchford Hall seems to shew that the timber styleisnot the best for a largemansion. The little corner of it shown on


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IN SHROPSHIRE. ii

Plate xvii, is charming, but when you see three sides of a hugequadrangle all in black and white and all in one style,without anycurved pieces or variety of any sort, the efFedt is wearisome in theextreme, and irresistiblyuggests the zebra !

Plate xviii, Cressage. The name is a contraction of Christ's oak,but the legend relatingto the tree does not appear to have survived.The house is a verv fine example, and has been well kept up. Thequaint oriel window is of course a later addition, and at night whenilluminated, it must have the appearance of a lantern hanging uponthe gable. The sturdy balusters of the porch have been filled withmodern sashes, as people became less tolerant of draughts. The finemass of diagonal chimney shafts assists the grouping amazingly.

Timber framing wq^/qv seems so happy as when it has a cap ofthatch, which indulgentlyaccommodates itself to its irregularlinesand vagaries. Plate xix is an excellent example of this, and thegrand outside chimney and oven of masonry rear themselves untilthey are lost indefinablyin the brickwork of the chimney shaft. Toappreciatethe perfediionof this example one must have tried thisblending of stone and brickwork in modern walling.

The remains of the Gothic gateway of Bromfield Priory, PlateXX, were requisitionedin Jacobean times to do service as the base fora timber superstrufture, and yet no incongruity appears in thecomposition.

Plates xxi and xxii illustrate Dodmore Hall, one ot the mostperfed: untouched examples in England. It will be found by thediligentseeker on the side of a hill near Ludlow, in the midst offields tar away from any road, surrounded by a high and singularlybeautiful brick wall. Behind this it successfullyesisted for longenough the attempts to photograph it,until a point of view was atlength discovered after a third visit. The verge boards and pen-ants

are originaland very delicate, and the timbers have never


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12 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.been blackened, but have a texture like velvet. Both the first andsecond floors overhang considerably,the upper ones being entirelycarried upon the beam and joistends, and it will be noticed that thetimbering is lighterin the gables,so as to diminish the load. Thebay makes no pretence of being self-supporting,but has twocrutches, while some buttresses lend their assistance to the over-anging

first floor on one side.Lane's Hospital at Ludlow, Plate xxiii, is not a good group, but

it is genuine, while the detail is most interestingand the carvingmost effective.

Another example in the same town, (Platexxiv),is probably bythe same builder and of the same age. Traces of the projectingwindows remain, and these must be restored in imagination beforethe true efFeift of this well-balanced little street front can be esti-ated.

The Reader's House at Ludlow, (Platexxv), is too well known torequire any description. It has been so surrounded by the tem-orary

sheds in the churchyard, that no point of view can be foundto do justiceto its refined carving and matchless proportions.

Plate xxvi shews what remains of the old Bell coaching inn atLudford. It has been restored with much energy but with littleknowledge, and the photograph is only admitted on account of thetimbering of the main gable, which, even without its projedtingwindows, is very beautiful.

Ludford House, Plates xxvii and xxxviii, is an interestingandhighly architediural composition in masonry and timber work, andthe modern slated roof, although most unfortunate, cannot depriveit of its pidluresquequality. One cannot help suspeftingthat themassive grey rubble walls below formed part of some earlierbuilding. The method by which this wall is reduced in thicknessby a slated weathering, to take the thinner-timbered wall above,


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14 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.enable one to pifture what this charming little house must havebeen in its prime.

The next view, Plate xxxii, shews the back of a large Farm Houseat Orleton, called " The Seven Gables," and from all sides it isquite satisfadtory.The roofs, partlyof flagsand partlytiles,seemaglow with crimson, purple and emerald. What breadth andgenerosityappear in the fine dormers (not all window, like modernones) and the ample chimney breast, with the shaft turned anglewiseto comfortably stop the overhanging eaves.

Plate xxxiii shews another house in the main street, which itwould be difficult to improve upon, unless one could call back theoriel window in the gable, where the solid moulded sill remains.The c har after iStic colouring of the distrift again appears in themingled stone and brick and flag slates. The sides of the joistssupporting the overhanging gable have been painted white withgood effeft.

Plate xxxiv is a cottage in a quiet lane, possessed of qualitiesowhich no photograph can do justice,nd which no words can describe.The flagged roof of the shed in front has been patched with redtiles by some inspiredbut unconscious genius,and the plasterpanelsof the timbering coloured an orange buff.Again the beautiful oriel has been snatched from the gable ofPlate XXXV, leaving the sill and pretty bracket, both sufficientlymassive and construftional to resist removal. The combined chim-ey

and high dormer form a curious piece of grouping.Plate xxxvi shews what farm buildings might be, and in the

background, what, alas,many modern ones are !Plate xxxvii has no business in a work solelydevoted to domestic

architedlure, but it pleaded so hard for admission, assuring us thatthere was nothing distinctively churchy " about it, that we hadnot the heart to refuse !


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IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 15

We are now in the heart of Herefordshire, that county ot purplesoil, wooded hills,and blue distances ; where friendlywhite-facedcattle look a shy welcome over luxuriant hedge-tops,and masses ofwhite violets nestle beneath ; where the apple-blossom clothes theSpring in pink and white, and the mistletoe embraces apple-treeandoak with indiscriminate affecftion.

Leominster is the first town we come to of any size. The finechurch is all that remains ot the abbey founded by Eeotric, the lordof Lady Godiva. The ducking stool is preserved in the church, tothe great indignation of all lady visitors, with whose devotions itmust interfere ! It has been used within living memory. Whatwould Lady Godiva have said ?

The Market Hall at Leominster once occupied a central positionin the town, but it was sold to make room for " improvements," andbought by Mr. Arkwright, who re-erefted it in its present positionand named it " The Grange." The open arcade underneath hasbeen filled in with masonry without concealing the originalcolumns,and the whole has been adapted to the purposes of a modern resi-ence

without interference with the design. The principalbeam isornamented with a cjuaintinscription,half in Latin and half inEnglish, which has been too often reproduced to be repeated here.The fine raised letteringhas been picked out with white paint.This is the first building we have come to which is designed andbuilt by John Abell, the carpenter-archited:f Hereford, who appearsto have been a man of real genius : and it cannot be doubted that heleft an indelible mark upon the art and architefture ot his countyin the seventeenth century. He had probably travelled and seensomething of the world, for he was known to King Charles I, andwas appointed "one of His Majesty's carpenters,"and entrustedwith the construdlion ot the defences of Hereford when it stood asiege. No doubt Abell was vastlysuperiorin skill and knowledge


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i6 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.

to any of his compeers, and that he himself was not altogtherun-onsciousof this superioritymay be gathered from the inscription

on his tombstone in Sarnes-field churchyard, designedand carved by his own hand,with effigiesf himself andhis two wives :

"This craggy stone a coveringis for an architect's bed.

That loftybuildingsraised high,yet now lies low his head.

His line and rule, so death con-ludesare locked up in a

store,Build they who list and they

who wist, for he can buildno more.

His house of clay will hold nolonger.

May Heaven's joy build him astronger."

He was, however, a muchbetter architedt than he wasa poet, and his work nodoubt influenced and ele-ated

the standard of excel-ence

throughout the wholecountry side, hence a fewnotes upon hisother principalworks, although out of order,may not be out of place.

The Hall of the Butcher'sGuild at Hereford, Plate

Sce^jE(= f"cr-Fig. 3. DOOR OF THE BUTCHER'S

GUILDHALL, HEREFORD.


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Ixix,is dated 1621, and is an ornate and well designed buildingtorthe centre of an open space, having three gablesat each side and oneat each end. The verandah roof carried by posts is entirelyodernbut otherwise the buildingis genuine ; and the richlycarved porchis originaland contains a massive oak door, decorated with anefFecdlive pattern in nail-heads, see Figure 3, reminding one of thetattooingof New Zealanders. The upper storey is carried over uponthe floor joistst the sides,but not at the ends, which is the moreconstruftional method. The three tiers of oriels are highly pic-uresqu

with their moulded sills carved out of the solid, as shownin Figure 4. The rope and tassel ornament is repeated upon thisand upon several other ancient buildings in the town. Lloyd'sBank now occupies the premisesand the richlypanelledhall of theGuild still remains.

The Market Hall at Ledbury,Plate Ixxii, is a much severerbuildingand stands upon sixteenmoulded chestnut columns, Fig.5, but it does not look quitehappy, and seems to be enquiring Qpatheticallyhat has become ofthe gracefuloriel windows andcarved verge boards which JohnAbell designed for it.

Another Market Hall of ^''S-Abell's, and one of rare beauty,stood at the top of the main streetat Weobly until forty-fiveears ago, when it too had to make wayfor improvements " and no Mr. Arkwright was found to purchaseand preserve it. The building which adjoined it is still standing,(PlateIxii),ith an air of distindion which confirms the local tradi-

D

ORIEL WINDOW AT THE HALL

OF THE butcher's GUILDHALL,HEREFORD.


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1 8 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.tion that it was by the same architedl-. All that is recorded of it is,that the wife of oneTomkins gave birthhere to thirty threechildren, all in oneroom !

A mile or two outsidethe town of Leominster is

Cholstrey, Plate xxxix. Asimple country bit, plantedon a bank high above theroad and shyly retired be-ind

the trees, as if decliningthe photographer's atten-ions.

The detail shewn inthe sketch, Figure 6, is in-eresting.

On the road towards Pem-bridge is the ideal villageof Eardisland, where wefirst meet with the riverArrow, spanned by a steepold bridge guarded by avenerable dovecote. The oldRedtory, illustrated on Platexl, is the perfedlionof tim-er

proportion,and is sur-oundedby clipped yews

which were doubtless plant-dwhen the house was

young.

Y'^lP "r rE^Err"-A COLUMN OF THE MARKET

HALL, LEDBURY.


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IN HEREFORDSHIRE.

We now enter the villageof Pembridge and we may befor introducingthis somewhat unarchi-tedtural view of the first glimpse ofthe main street shown on Plate xli.This banking up of the footpath,toget rid of the gradient of the road,and so to form the level base essentialto timber architefture, is frequentlyresorted to.

Plate xlii shews a row of houses nearthe entrance to the village,whilePlate xliii is another view of the same

19

excused

7. DETAIL FROMPEMBRIDGE.

Fig.6. BRACKET FROM CHOLSTREY.

a group with a second row behind it,which is not cheap and mean, because

forced to take a back seat.The charming roadside house at Pem-ridge

shown on Plates xliv,xlv and xlvi,quitemerits the three views devoted to its illustra-ion,

as it is a perfeftexample of the satis-faftory effefts obtainable with the simplestmethods and materials. The absence of carvingand moulding, and of shaped timbers is notobserved, while the grouping, colouring andlight-and-shadeare in the highest degreesatisfactory.The horizontal weather boards


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so common in Herefordshire appear here for the first time ; Figure 7,shews a bit of detail.

In texture and colour-ngthe Farm House at

Middlebrook, Plate xlvii,is the finest group ofbuildings I have everseen. The tenant is clam-uring

for a general re-toration,so it should

be visited by all who areinfluenced by poetry inarchite(5lure, before theimpending destruction.Plate xlviii shews only acommon shippon anddovecote combined, butit is more beautiful than

any modern buildingerefted during the lasthundred years. Figures8 to 13 give variousdetails from the House.

Plate xlix is a rowof cottagesoutside the

gates ofOejai^-of H'^^qe-

I

Middle-brookFarm.

Cottages at Pembridge (Plate1). This plain,vertical close timbering.Figs.8.,9 and 10. doorway at middlebrook, with details.


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22 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.Plate li. These are more delightfulottages at Pembridge. The

bold overhanging gable held up its head, no doubt, for severalcenturies,and these masonry props have been added to support itsdecliningyears.

Fisj.14. AN ORIEL WINDOW AT EARDISLEY.

Plate Hi is a fine timber Manor House at Luntley, but we darenot give the whole building on account of a huge vulgar,modernbay, which protrudes like a tumour from its fair front. The porch


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IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 23will give ail idea of what the house has been, and it possesses all theHerefordshire charaderistics,the weather boarding,the pen-antsterminating the angle-posts, the massive boldlyshaped corbels and the balus-rade

on three sides.Plate liiigivesthe Dovecote

adjoining the house at Lunt-ley, a charming and quainthalf-timber structure, of a typefound with some variations atdifferent places in Hereford-hire

and Shropshire.Eardisley is another quaint

village, and Plate liv shews atypicalow of cottages there.The chimney stacks, which areoriginal,re worthy ot atten-ion.

Although the house shewnin Plate Iv has been muchmutilated, and much ofit hidden with rough-ast,

what remains isuntouched and pro-oundly

interesting.The detail is distinft-ly Gothic in feeling.Figures 14 and i 5 illus-

:^\-^\"^\N\^??^^^

fJEAP/F^|.[."IBa/.

Fig. 15. PLAN AND SECTION OFSHEWN ON FIG. I4.

rHE ORIEL

trate a ground floor Oriel here, which may be seen in the photograph.


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We were fortunate in findingthe house unoccupied and in obtainingadmission, and we found it full of interestingeatures. Groping aboutin the dim lightof the roofs we discovered an old built-upchapelwith the altar step, traceried Gothic holy water stoup, and the orig-nal

open-timberroof. The barge board from the same village,hewnin the sketch, Figure i6, is equallyimpressed with Gothic character.

We now reach Weobly, a decaying village,containing quite acolledion of fine old timber houses. They are mostly owned bytheir occupiers,who cannot afford to spend much in keeping them inrepair.

Plate Ivi is a good example from which to study the value ofweather boards. A deeply recessed bay probably occupied thecentre of the gable on the ground floor, but this and other inter-sting

features have disappeared.Weobly once returned twomembers to Parliament, and

/ the story goes that previousto the Reform Bill the Mar-uis

of Bath, who owned thewhole place,allowed the tenants

to live rent free as the priceof theirvotes to his nominee. When Weobly

lost its representation,he landlord saw noreason why he should continue to foregohis rents and sent his agent to collect them.But a mischievous " opposition" lawyershewed them that they had become thelegal owners of their houses, by havinglived in them so long rent free ! Now

that the houses have fallen into such a sad state of disrepairs to bescarcelyhabitable,the occupiershave begun for the first time to miss

Fig. 16. A BARGEBOARDNEAR EARDISLEY.


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the presence of the landlord and his agent ! The Weobly cottageshave many local characteristics,and weather boards cast their broadshadows on many a quaint front. To support an overhanging gableby a bracket at one end and by a buttress thrown out from achimney stack at the other, is a favourite device, (PlateIvii),nd thehuge timbers forming the gable of this house tell of the days whenoak was plentiful.

The Leys Farm, (PlatesIviii and lix),is a wonderful specimen ofdignifiedtimber architecture, and shews the utmost that can beeffected with these materials. It is perfectin texture and colour,most interestingin detail,and no restoration has marred the effectof time upon its silverybeams ; while the fact that it has passed intothe possessionof Sir Joseph Verdin is a guarantee that it will betreated with discriinination and respect. The double tier of pedi-ent-lik

gables to the bays is almost unique and shews a classicinfluence, while the Gothic tradition survives in the sills of thegables,which are carried through without any mitreing at the angles.The family of John Brugge, or Bridge, is commemorated in thecarved panel over the porch, (PlateIx),togetherwith the date 1589.

Plate Ixi,The Rows, Weobly. This is a remarkably interestinggroup, as it belongs undoubtedly to the fifteenth century. A Gothictraceried window just shews on the side of the far gable, and adrawing in " The Domestic Architecture of the Middle Ages" by theauthor of the '"'"Glossaryf Architecture,' shews that fiftyears ago abeautiful traceried three-lightindow appeared in the gable of thenearest house, and that both the cusped and pierced verge boardsremained, while curious cusped panels occupied the ground floorinstead of the present doorway and windows. The Gothic doorwayin the centre is also proof of the great antiquityof these houses.

Plate Ixii, Old House at Weobly. This beautiful example hasalreadybeen referred to, as one of John Abell's works. The addi-


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26 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.tioii of modern shop fronts and poor modern windows cannot renderit commonplace, or minimise the effect of its charming proportionsand perfectskyline,which from every point of view seem equallyfaultless.

Plate Ixiii. Street Houses, Weobly. This is another very earlygroup, which though much mutilated is full of interest. It has theoverhang to front and side and the diagonal angle-beam, which areuncommon in these parts, and also the recessed centre and pro-ecting

wings which are common characteristics of the Kent andSussex houses. The enormous coves are more quaint than beautiful,and the more distant one seems to indicate that the farthest houseonce formed a third wing, and that the whole block was once underone roof with a uniform line of eaves.

Plate Ixiv shews a beautiful and very complete little house, towhich the photograph scarcelydoes justice,owing to the difficultyof obtaining a good point of view, but Plate Ixv shews how excellentand thoughtful is the detail of the porch. The manner in whichthe projectingjambs of the dormer windows terminate with pendantsis noteworthy.

The Pigeon House or " Falconry," (as it is locallysaid to havebeen), known as " the buttas," is quaint and original,with itsventilatingpanel of wattle in the gable (PlateIxvi).

Plate Ixvii, Wigmore Village. This quaint villageis groupedround the hill upon which stands what remains of the Castle of theMortimers on OfFa's Dyke. There are many timber houses, butnone possess any distinctive features except the one in the picture,which grows up the hill-side in a delightfulatural manner.

Plate Ixviii shews a plain well-designed house at Fenhampton, 'near Weobly, which has probably lost its verge boards and originalwindows, and seems to protest that it is not dressed to receivevisitors !


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IN CHESHIRE. 27

The Hall of the Butcher's Guild and the Market Hall at Ledbury,Plates Ixix and-lxxii,have al-eady

been described (pp. 1 6and I 7, and Figs.3,4 and 5).

The two street houses inLedbury, Plates Ixx and Ixxi,throw fine shadows and theone in the narrow Church

Lane, Plate Ixxi, has inter-stingdetails,some of which

are given here. Figure 17.Plate Ixxiii is a quaint

and entirelygenuine ex-mplefrom the neighbour-ood

of Little Hereford,but it possesses no detailswhich call for remark.

C H Es H I RE has always beenpar excellence the home oftimber architecture. Pos-essed

of abundant forestsand littlegood buildingstoneit is not surprisingthat wefind "timber nogging," asthey call it there, the stylefor cottage, mansion and,very often, for the churchalso. The halls of Adling-

, ton, Bramall and Moreton, 'JWlf Of i^EurWINDOWS FROM CHURCH STREET, (PlatCSXCii,ciii,XCi andc)

LEDBURY. (with Spekc just over the


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28 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.border), are probably the finest timber mansions in the world.These may not all have been of local design,for the carving is oftenrefined and the design originaland elaborate, and they are not quitewhat one would expect from the Cheshire carpenter of those earlydays ; and although " Richard Dale Carpeder " records in carved

iM^*iii^fe^f5^

"NcJfcolI'EET-

Fig. iS PLASTER GABLE AT WHITEFRIARS " CHESTER.and painted letteringupon the world-renowned bays of Moreton,that he " made thies windows by the grac of God," he may havehad other assistance in designing them ! Of the above three man-ions

we only give some small bits, as they are outside the scope ofthis modest work, and other fine examples we have had to omit, asbeing too generallyknown and frequentlyillustrated to be of interest.Thus, of picturesqueChester, which was once a veritable black-and-


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3" OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.

Alderley Edge is a beautiful spot and it forms quite a centre forthe study of timber buildings. "The Eagle and Child," Plate Ixxx,just outside the village,as been an inn for centuries,but its licensehas at last been sacrificed to the conscientious scruplesof its noble

Fig 19. DETAIL OF PORCH ATHANDFORTH HALL.

owner. One cannot help wishing that a less venerable " pub." hadbeen made an example of, and there are plenty to choose from. Aportion of the embossed cast lead spout, bearing the date 1688, still


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IN CHESHIRE. 31

clingsto the eaves, a most interestingand uncommon relic,whichis ilkistrated in Figures 20 and 21.

Plate Ixxxi shews one of the numerous Manor Houses of the

F'\c 20. EMBOSSED LEAD SPOUT FROM THE EAGLE AND CHILD :ALDERLEY EDGE.

Stanley family. Figure 23 gives aneffective little bit of ornament and thedetail of the window on the left-handside of the door.

Several delightfulcottages adornthe lanes around, (seePlates Ixxxi andIxxxii),nd the timbering in some ofthem is unusual and has local fashions,as is so often the case. The draught-oard

decoration is one of them, (Fig.22), and it appears again at SwinyardOld Hall, (PlateIxxxv).

The Farm illustrated on PlateIxxxiii is a fine unrestored example,but it is rather gloomy, and the ab-ence

of chimneys makes one speculatehow the tenants fare when aJanuary blast is whistling'hrough the " wattle-and-dab " of the

Fig. 21. SECTION OF THE LEADSPOUT SHOWN ON FIG. 20.


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Fig. 22. A COTTAGE AT ALDERLEY EDGE.


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IN CHESHIRE. 33

walls. Do they appreciate" timber nogging " as much as we do ?Woodford Hall, Plate Ixxxiv, one of the many homes of the

Davenports, is not far away, but it is a great contrast with the last.The beautiful balance of the timbering has a charm which leaves noroom for any feelingbut admiration. All the house has been modern-sed

with the exceptionof this fragment. We could not get the fowlsin the foreground to understand that they were being photographed !

Swinyard lies between Northwich and Warrington. The photo-raph,Plate Ixxxv, was taken on a very dull day and hardly doesthe old placejustice: but it was

"then or never, as the Restorationhad commenced and the scaffoldpoles were actually up. Thevery word suggests a violent end !

Prestbury lies between Mac-lesfieldand Manchester, and thischarming; little Priest's HousePlate Ixxxviii, adorns the mainstreet. It is on a very smallscale and has a number of inter-sting

features. The balconybetween the two bays is original,though restored. One can pic-ure

the priestinterviewing hisparishionersfrom hence in hiscassock or his nightdressand sosaving his legs and the stairs !The four-way gables are very

quaint and, so far as I know, unique. Figure 24 shews the planand the old flagged pavement which survives, and Figure 25 thelead lights.

F

^CALEf^ frcf-Fig.23. DETAIL OF BEAM FROM

STANLEY HALL.


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Driving from Prestbury to Congleton, we come first uponMarten Church, Plate Ixxxvii, which is a capitalexample of tim-er

ecclesiastical architecture. The bloom of age has been roughlybrushed aside by the restorer, but he seems to have spared theoriginal timbers and windows. The doorway in the sketch.

( 0

'\cfll^f fPET"-Fig. 24. PLAN OF BAYS AT THE PRIEST's HOUSE, PRESTBURY.

CCfll^E fPTET^Fig. 25. GLAZING FROM PRESTBURY.

(Figure2 6),isinteresting,whilethe hinges are refined and re-ieve

the plainnesseffectually.A little further on, among

the trees and orchards to theleft, we espy Marton Hall,Plate Ixxxviii. Charming indesign and colour, with roofof sea-weed green, and creamy

walls, with the pink blush ofbrickwork showing throughthe worn plaster,it formed apicture against the grey-bluesky, never to be forgotten.


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IN CHESHIRE. 35

Fig.26. DOOR AT MARTON CHURCH, WITH DETAIL.


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36 OLD COTTAGES, FARM HOUSES, ETC.There is a restraint about the timber work which inodern designerswould do well to emulate. The inevitable restoration is imminent,and, truth to tell,the rain comes in through the lovely roof and thepreciouswalls, and much of the valuable old furniture has long beenkept in oilskin cases ! The most exacting member of the Society

Fig. 27. DOORWAY AT MARTON HALL.

for the Protection of Ancient Buildingswould hardly prescribesthe only alternatives " abandonment or oilskins. The doorway isshewn in Figure 27. Inside there is much that is interesting. Theold " dog-gate " remains at the foot of the stairs. We thought thatit was there to prevent the children fallingown, and wondered thatit had not been fixed at the top ! A number of Tudor spears still


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splendid old mansion. It belonged originallyto the Bromeales orBromhals, but passed by marriage into the hands of the Davenportsin the reign of Edward III. The fine long galleryof which Ormerodgives a sketch taken in 1809 has long disappeared, together withthe gatehouse and the fourth side of the quadrangle. The restora-ion

has been, on the whole, judiciously done.Dutton Hall, Plate xcv, must once have been a splendid place,

for it still contains one of the finest banqueting halls in the country,which has been divided up into three storeys of small rooms. Thebeautiful porch which remains has been so barbarously restoredthat we have had to go back many years to obtain a photograph fitto produce. Over the doorway is the inscription"Syr Piers DuttonKnyght Lorde of Dutton and my lade dame Julian hys wifF madethis hall and buyldyng in ye yere of our Lorde God mcccccxlii whothanketh God of all."

The old Hall at Middlewich, Plates xcvi and xcvii, is a delightfulexample, and although it has been used for some years as offices tochemical works, it has been tenderly treated and is full of interest.

Saiidbach is full of old timber houses, but the restoration maniahas been in full swing, and not one dare I present except the oldInn illustrated on Plate xcviii, which, though tampered with andpartly sham, has managed to preserve the " grand air."

The old Farm near Alsager, Haslington Hall, Plate xcix, is afine genuine example in a by-lane, and quite rewarded us tor thelong hunt we had before it was unearthed.

With the Gatehouse of old Moreton Hall, Plate c, we take leaveof our readers, and we feel that we need not apologise for repro-ucing

so familiar an example, for of its matchless proportions andperfect balance it is impossible ever to grow weary.


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IN CHESHTRK. 39

The question naturally arises, whether timber nogging is a suitablestyle for a modern house, and as one who has had some experienceof such building, I would say that, given a suitable client, one whois worthy of the privilege of living in a timber house, who willappreciate the advantages and put up with the drawbacks " it is aneminently suitable style for a house of moderate dimensions.

But it is not a cheap style, nor one to give to a fidgety or exactingclient, who will attribute the natural behaviour of the materials tosome neglect on the part of the builder. No matter how dry theoak may be it will shrink and twist to some extent when first

exposed to the weather and sunshine. After about two years theoak work will require overhauling and the lead-lights and casementsrefitting,atter which it should give little further trouble, if it has beenproperly constructed at first. No style of building will harmonizeso quickly and so completely with its surroundings and so soon passthrough the crude and brand-new period, and none continue to liveon such terms of good-fellowship with other materials, whether rosybrickwork, grey lichen-covered masonry, or pearly flag-slates,whichlast it loves the most ot all. And then it is hard to say which

season of the year most becomes it. In its cap of virgin snow, inits gorgeous garb of Virginia creeper or in its purple veil of wistariait is equally bewitching. At the noondav it throws the broadestshadows, and at eve (as no other building can) it gathers on itssnowy breast the rose of sunset, and responds to the silver magic ofthe moon.

FINIS.


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Plate

SHOPS AT CORNER OF BUTCHERS ROW,SHREWSBURY.


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Plate II.

A HOUSE IN BUTCHERS ROW, SHREWSBURY.


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Plate IV.

-m^^^^^Mm^'if '^SiM

THE COURT HOUSE, SHREWSBURY.


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uo-Iz

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Plate VI.

HOUSES AND SHOPS IN MUCH WENLOCK.


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Plate Vlll.

%l 11 11PI

THE ABBOT'S HOUSf, MUCH WENLOCK.


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Plate XVII.

A GABLE END FROM PITCHFORD HALL.


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Plate XXII.

DODMORE FARM, NEAR LUDLOW.


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XX

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Plate XXV.

THE READER S HOUSE, T.UDLOW.


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Plate XXVI.

GABLE OF TilE BET.L INN, LUDFORH,


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Plate XXVIII.

A BAY AT LUDFORD HOUSE.


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Plate LIII.

THE DOVECOTE, LUNTLEY, NEAR PEMBRIDOE.


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PORCH OK THE OLD SCHOOL HOUSF, WEOBLY.


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Plate LXVI.

"THE BUTTAS" FALCONRY, NEAR WEOBLY.


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Plate LXIX.

THE HALL OF THE BUTCHERS' GUILD, HEREFORD.


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CHURCH ROW, LEDBURY.


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Plate LXXl.

CLERK'S HOUSES, LEDBURY.


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202/259


203/259

Plate LXXIV.

A HOUSE IN WHITEFRrARS, CHESTER.


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205/259

Plate LXXV.

THE STANLEY PALACE, CHESTER.


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207/259


208/259


209/259

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210/259


211/259

Plate LXXVIll.

HANDFORTH HALL, NEAR CHEADLE.


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213/259


214/259


215/259


216/259


217/259

Plate LXXXI.

A COTTAGE AT ALDERLEY EDGE.


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219/259

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1-"uO"1-f-ou


220/259


221/259

Plate LXXXlll.

A FARM HOUSE AT ALDERLEV EDOE.


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223/259


224/259


225/259

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226/259


227/259

Plate LXXXVI.

THE PRIETS'S HOUSE, PRESTBURY.


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229/259

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7/27/2019 Old Co

old cottages farm houses and other half-timber buildings in 1000189191

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