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T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RCH OF T RU LY E NCH A N T I NG P L ACE S

OCTOBER 2016 | Our 38th Year AndrewHarper.com

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The Hirondelle moored at Verdun-sur-le-Doubs

T H I S M O N T H

Côte d’Or and ChablisAs well as making a sublime six-night journey by luxury barge along the Canal du Centre and the River Saône, I discovered a fine new hideaway deep in the Burgundy countryside. ............. 1-7

Online: Tasting at Top Burgundy Wineries, plus a Burgundy Touring Itinerary

Blissful St. BarthsTwo of my favorite resorts on this idyllic island are under new ownership and have recently been upgraded and refurbished. ............... 8-11

Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report

Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays full rate for all lodging, meals and related travel expenses. Since the inception of this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis.

Exploring the backcountry of France

counts among the great pleasures

of life, and one of my favorite ways

to do so is along the country’s extensive

network of canals. Spending six nights

aboard a converted 1920s-era cargo barge

might sound like rather an ordeal, but

in fact the best boats compare with any

well-staffed luxury yacht.

Thomas Jefferson may have pioneered

the French barge vacation when he

cruised along the Languedoc’s Canal du

Midi in early 1787. In a letter to a friend

he wrote, “Of all the methods of traveling

I have ever tried, this is the pleasantest.

I walk the greater part of the way along

the banks of the canal, level, and lined

with a double row of trees which furnish

shade. When fatigued, I take seat [on the

barge] where, as much at ease as if in my

study, I read, write, or observe.” In many

respects, little about the experience has

changed in the ensuing 230 years.

Jefferson would likely have recog-

nized the rhythm of the cruise we took

aboard the Hirondelle, a four-cabin barge

operated by Afloat in France, a company

now owned by Belmond. But I suspect our

barge — painted smartly in white, burgun-

dy and black — offered a far greater level

of comfort than his. On the teak deck, a

canopy shaded a table surrounded by eight

faux-wicker armchairs. Stairs led down

to a combined lounge-and-dining room

with hardwood floors, brass sconces and

numerous windows with wooden Venetian

blinds, plus a paneled ceiling with a large

skylight. Fresh flower arrangements and

comfortable sofas upholstered in red

linen added splashes of color. A built-in

M E M O R A B L E W I N E S , D E L I C I O U S C U I S I N E , I DY L L I C L A N D S CA P E S

Cruising the Waterways of Burgundy

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2 HIDEAWAY REPORT OCTOBER 2016

undulating pastures dotted with white

Charolais cattle.

We typically returned to the Hiron-

delle an hour or so before lunch, giving

us time to sit beneath the canopy on the

geranium-bordered deck while reading

or simply watching the idyllic landscapes

slip by. During our introduction to the ship

and its crew, the chef told us that lunches

would be “light — salads and that sort of

thing.” What he meant by “that sort of

thing” was, for example, mild Toulouse

sausages, Moroccan-spiced couscous,

ratatouille, pork rillettes, fried frogs legs

in a light lemon-butter sauce, and seared

tuna steaks to place atop a Niçoise salad.

A top-quality cheese, Neufchâtel, was

served as dessert. This particular lunch-

time feast was accompanied by a bottle

of Saint-Bris, Burgundy’s little-known but

excellent Sauvignon Blanc.

In the afternoon we headed out

on memorable excursions with the

Hirondelle’s top-notch Burgundian guide,

Armelle. On one occasion our little

group had the grand Château de Rully

entirely to ourselves, and as Armelle

led us from room to elaborate room in

the 12th-century castle, she pointed out

fascinating details that illuminated the

history behind the family paintings. She

also led us on a walking tour of her lovely

hometown, Chalon-sur-Saône, which

culminated in a sampling of chocolates

and cookies in a friendly patisserie.

And then there were the wine tast-

ings: one in a hilltop facility with pano-

ramic views of the vineyards of the Côte

Chalonnaise, and another in the cave

(cellar) of a family winery in the village

of Gevrey-Chambertin. The son met us,

dressed in work clothes, after parking his

buffet counter provided a good selection

of both French and international spirits,

plus white wine, water and soft drinks in

a small refrigerator.

Our cabin, similar in size to the other

three, proved snug but agreeable, with

small windows that could be opened to let

in fresh air, soft carpeting and a simple

beige color scheme enlivened by a print

of a Burgundian town square and a wall

covered in Empire-style wallpaper. We

had opted for a room with a king-size

bed, but it is also possible to request two

twins. A single vanity flanked by ample

counter space occupied the wall beneath

the windows, and a door concealed the

bath. The latter contained a shower stall

and was stocked with L’Occitane toiletries.

We had enough storage and closet space

to unpack almost entirely; however, the

room lacked a chair, which was occasion-

ally irritating, and I wished we’d had more

than a single electrical outlet over the sink.

Each morning we breakfasted on

fresh fruit salad, eggs and fresh-baked

bread, often succumbing to the tempt-

ing pastries procured from a nearby

boulangerie. We would then start glid-

ing along the Canal du Centre — we also

spent two days on the River Saône —

near Burgundy’s hallowed Côte d’Or. At

numerous small locks it was possible to

disembark and walk along the canal —

the barge moves at approximately the

same speed as a pedestrian — or to head

deeper into the countryside on a bicycle.

Beyond the trees that lined the canal were

fields of sunflowers, tidy villages and

Cabin, lounge, dining deck, and details of a dinner on board the Hirondelle including a nightly wine selection, and duck leg with turnip purée / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Toulouse sausages and Neufchâtel cheese (below) from an onboard lunch, and a canal in Dole

OCTOBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

The Hirondelle is one of the five barges on Belmond's current roster, which offers cruises

in three contrasting regions.

Hirondelle This four-cabin barge is among the most casual and relaxing, with relatively simple furnishings. Nevertheless, the food and service are at the same elevated level as the other barges, and the itineraries through Burgundy — Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune to Dole and Besançon to Chagny — are among the most tempting. Available for private charters or single-cabin bookings.

Amaryllis Also with four cabins, the Amaryllis cruises from Dijon to Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune. It is similar to the Hirondelle, but it has much more formal Louis XVI décor and can only be booked as a private charter. In addition, it has a small swimming pool at the bow.

Fleur de Lys Like the Amaryllis, this barge has a pool and a more formal atmosphere. It follows a more northerly route in Burgundy from Dijon to Vandenesse-en-Auxois along the River Ouche. Available for private charters; on certain dates its three cabins can be reserved individually.

Alouette The smallest barge in the Belmond fleet has just two cabins, and it is available for private charters only. It cruises a fascinating itinerary along the Canal du Midi in Languedoc between Carcassonne and Béziers. In addition to magnificent scenery, this region claims many of France’s most innovative winemakers.

Napoléon Instead of cruising along a canal, this six-cabin barge plies the Rhône River between Tain-l’Hermitage and Arles. The itinerary includes many of Provence’s major sights as well as lesser-known villages, local markets and world-class wineries. Available for private charters and single-cabin bookings.

Two new barges will be added to the Belmond fleet in 2017. The Lilas will cruise through Alsace, while the Pivoine will take passengers from Meaux to Châlons-en-Champagne.

Belmond’s Fleet

tractor in front of the winery; this lack

of pretension and formality is typically

Burgundian, and it is one of the region’s

most surprising and endearing charac-

teristics. He poured some rich and elegant

premier cru wines for us along with an

unusual sparkling Pinot Noir.

By the time we returned to the Hiron-

delle each afternoon, it had usually

moored for the day, often next to a

picturesque town such as Dole, Verdun-

sur-le-Doubs or Saint-Jean-de-Losne

(only Chagny proved unattractive). After

a stroll through town or a game of boules,

we would refresh ourselves with aperitifs

and canapés and then sit down to dinner.

One night we enjoyed savory gougères

topped with mushroom cream sauce; duck

legs with turnip purée, Puy lentils and

sweet red cabbage; nutty Beaufort cheese

from Savoie; and flawless crème brûlée. On

other evenings we had lighter fare, such

as our dinner of red wine-poached pears

with grilled goat cheese and hazelnuts,

Atlantic scallops with a Noilly Prat cream

sauce, local Chaource cheese, and a

brightly flavored lemon cake. Indeed,

the food was so consistently superb that

it was something of a disappointment

to dine out one night at a Michelin-

starred restaurant. Wines, too, ranged

from excellent to sensational, and not a

dinner on the Hirondelle went by without

at least one Burgundian premier cru.

Each evening different legendary names

— Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault,

Chambolle-Musigny — graced our table.

The small size of the ship ensured

that the five crew members got to know

our preferences, habits and tempera-

ments very quickly. At one point while

chatting with the chef, for example, I

complained that in the United States it is

often difficult to find the pâtés en croûte

at which the Burgundians excel. Two days

later, while shopping at an outdoor food

market, he led me to a charcuterie stand

so that I might select a pie or pâté to serve

at lunch. I chose a tourte Bourguignonne

froide filled with pork, garlic, parsley

and béchamel. When we had free time

in Chalon-sur-Saône and Beaune, our

guide acted as a personal shopper for

one passenger, helping her find exactly

the kind of table linens she was seeking.

And after dinner each night, the barge’s

hostess always had my preferred digestif

of marc de Bourgogne at the ready.

Of course, unless you charter the

Hirondelle, which many do, you can’t be

sure who will join you on your cruise.

However, the chances are high that trav-

elers who find canal cruises appealing

will have much in common. The Hiron-

delle attracts those who want to escape

the crowds and to explore lesser-known

sights; I have traveled aboard canal

barges before and have yet to encounter

a fractious group. And for the food and

wine lover, I can think of few better ways

to spend a week than on the waterways

of Burgundy. H

Hirondelle “Dole to Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune” is a six- night cruise offered by Belmond along Burgundy’s Canal du Centre and the River Saône (other itineraries include the Canal de Bourgogne). Cabin, $6,010 per person; full charter, $40,430. Rates include all meals and beverages (including alcohol), excursions as described in the itinerary and round-trip transfers from downtown Paris. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office for additional information and to make reservations: (800) 375-4685.

M O R E B A R G E O P T I O N S

Fleur de Lys / © F. LEGRAND

Mustard for sale in Dijon, Charolais cows, and walking path along the Canal du Centre / ALL PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


C H A B L I S TO B E AU N E

New BurgundyHideaways

money. But Chablis draws fewer visitors,

and the town itself lacks a distinguished

hotel. However, luxury lies 45 minutes to

the southwest at La Borde, a rural estate

with just five suites, four of which are

Junior Suites, tucked deep in the pastoral

heart of Burgundy.

The property dates back to at least

the 14th century when a walled manor

house stood on the site, but most of the

current structures were built in the 16th

century. Owners Rik and Marieke Klomp

originally used La Borde as their vacation

home, hosting house parties and relax-

ing there over school breaks. Once their

children started lives of their own, the

Klomps decided to turn La Borde into a

guesthouse. “But we needed a challenge,”

Rik explained to me one evening by the

fire, “so we wanted to make it a five-star

property.” They succeeded: Their talent

for hospitality has resulted in a hideaway

of the first order.

B elmond barge cruises include

transfers to and from Paris, but I

couldn’t resist the opportunity to

strike out into the countryside. I never

tire of driving along the back roads of

France, and I find the sculpted land-

scapes of Burgundy especially appealing.

Allées of poplars and plane trees give

way to well-tended pastures and views

to distant castles and compact villages.

Burgundy’s most famous department, the

Côte d’Or, is home to some of the world’s

most coveted wines, and I currently

recommend several hotels in the region.

But Burgundy stretches far beyond the

“slope of gold,” so I set out to see what

other hideaways I could discover.

Some of Burgundy’s best wines come

from Chablis. I love the region’s

forceful whites, and because they lack the

cachet of those from the Côte d’Or, these

wines usually offer excellent value for the

F r a n c eNational CapitalsAdministrative CapitalsCities 3,000,000+Cities 900,000-2,999,999

International BoundariesAdminastrative BoundariesHighwaysPrimary RoadsMinor Primary RoadsLocal Primary Roads

Cities 250,000-899,999Cities 75,000-249,999Cities 25,000-74,999Cities 0-24,999

Major RiversIntermediate RiversLakes

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ChablisWine Region

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BeaujolaisWine Region

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1 La Borde2 Abbaye de la Bussière*3 Le Cep*

Hostellerie de Levernois*4 Château du Petit Musigny*5 Georges Blanc Parc & Spa*6 Château de Bagnols**previously recommended

Conservatory, gardens, main lounge, and our Aubépine junior suite at La Borde / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Pool at La Borde in Leugny / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

Route of the Belmond Hirondelle


While Rik took our luggage to our

room on a golf cart, Marieke escorted

us there on foot through the fragrant

gardens. The 17 acres that surround the

central buildings were just fields when

the Klomps purchased La Borde, but

the couple quickly set about creating

formal gardens, starting with an allée of

lindens. The grounds now also comprise

extravagant beds of roses, a flourishing

kitchen garden, elaborate topiary and an

orchard of apples and pears. A Victorian-

style conservatory contains a sofa and

numerous armchairs surrounding a wood-

burning fireplace. “It’s a delightful place

to relax when it rains,” Marieke told me.

Clear blue skies allowed us to relax

by the well-kept swimming pool, which is

surrounded by umbrella-shaded loungers

facing the former dovecote. This cylindri-

cal building, capped by a conical tile roof,

now contains showers and a hot tub and

stands adjacent to the spa, which has a

steam room, a sauna and a massage treat-

ment room. An extra fee is charged for

use of the spa, required in order to keep

it a private experience, it was explained.

The gleaming and well-equipped fitness

center, however, is complimentary.

Continuing around a central court-

yard we arrived at the entrance to our

Junior Suite. We had chosen Aubépine,

which came with vaulted ceilings of

ancient wooden beams, a king-size bed

with a linen headboard and two contem-

porary scroll-top chairs facing a function-

ing fireplace. Antique shutters concealed

the closet and the terra-cotta f loor

looked original. Worn wooden beams also

supported the ceiling of the bath, which

had a soaking tub, pedestal sinks and a

walk-in shower. Aubépine is up a flight of

stairs, but ground-floor accommodations

are also available.

Nearby, a former carriage house has

been renovated into an airy and styl-

ish lounge centerpieced by a massive

Renaissance-style hearth. Louis XV sofas

and armchairs upholstered in pearl gray

face the fireplace, which is flanked by a

giant antique bellows. One of the original

half-timbered walls remains, but the other

has been replaced by a set of immense

glass doors, which can transform the

lounge into an indoor/outdoor space that

opens onto the courtyard.

A wood-beamed loggia covers a

communal dining table facing the court-

yard and gardens, but evenings proved

too cool for outdoor dinners during our

stay. Instead, we dined inside on fine

French cuisine prepared and served by

Marieke herself. After delicate gougères,

we tucked into some escargot, followed

by flavorful duck breast accompanied by

a potato gâteau and zucchini with pesto.

Next came a superb cheese tray with

Epoisses, Chaource (made by a nearby

fromager), Roquefort and double-cream

Saint-Félicien Tentation. And finally, we

enjoyed a dessert of hazelnut macaroon

topped with raspberry coulis, homemade

vanilla ice cream and fresh raspber-

ries. Marieke incorporates produce and

herbs from La Borde’s garden as much

as possible.

After such a satisfying meal, a stroll

in the garden seemed like just the thing.

Rik refused to let me go, however, until

I put on some rubber overshoes to protect

my leather loafers from the wet grass.

This thoughtful gesture exemplified the

anticipatory service and warm hospitality

at La Borde. I also appreciated details

such as the list of nearby restaurants

placed in our room, complete with a chart

of opening times, prices and types of

cuisine. We left with real regret.

Fortifications dot the strategic Burgundian landscape, ranging from well-defended

manor houses to romantic castles bristling with mosaic-roofed towers. Some remain in private hands, having been owned by the same family for hundreds of years. We visited three dramatic châteaux on this latest trip.

Château de Chastellux This castle in the Parc naturel régional du Morvan, between Vézelay and Saulieu along the ancient Roman Via Agrippa, has been occupied by the same family for 10 generations (aside from a brief interruption during the French Revolution). The guided tour of the interior, offered three times daily, is only in French, but pages in English describe the rooms well. I was especially taken with the huge, if faded, 17th-century tapestries in the guard room; the grand but cozy wood-paneled library; and the cheerful Palm Bedroom, which retains much of its 1620s décor.

Château de Rully We visited this family-owned château as an excursion from the Hirondelle, and we had the impressive 12th-century fortifica-tion entirely to ourselves. Its towers rise up from the vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise, and the ornate interiors display a large portion of their pre-Revolution furnishings. Our barge’s guide did an excellent job illuminating the castle’s history, but anyone can make advance reservations for a private tour with a member of the family. Official tours can even be followed by a wine tasting.

Château de La Rochepot Perched on a hillside with panoramic views, this 13th-century castle looks straight out of a fairy tale. An array of spire-topped turrets surrounds a flower-filled courtyard, and much of the roof is covered in multicolored tiles. A brochure in English describes the salient features of the Gothic and Renaissance interiors, including the heroic dining room and an exotic “Chinese Room” furnished with gifts from the Empress Dowager Cixi. Be sure to take the unmarked path up the hill behind the ticket office: Turn left at the end of the wall and take the high trail, which leads to a splendid overlook of the château.

Châteaux Visits

E XC U RS I O N S

Château de Rully / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER


La Borde A94L I K E The unfailingly warm, hospitable and anticipatory service; the rich historic details; the tranquil garden setting; the unfussy, delicious food; the well-kept pool; the house-party feel. D IS L I K E The leather armchairs in the conser-vatory need conditioning; the bath had limited counter space. G O O D TO K N OW The property is a fine base for sightseeing, within easy reach of Chablis, Auxerre, Vézelay and Avallon, among other attractions. Junior Suite, $390; Suite, $510. 89130 Leugny. Tel. (33) 3-86-47-69-01. lbmh.fr

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on this and the six other recommendations in the Burgundy/Beaujolais region (see map). Le Relais Bernard Loiseau (89) and Chez les Fatien (88) were not up to the required standard.

wood-paneled library and billiard room.

Service, too, was always friendly and

helpful. I would happily recommend

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau, if only our

accommodations hadn’t been so unat-

tractive. Our suite, which in no way

resembled that pictured on the hotel’s

website, had a small living room with one

window facing an interior corridor. The

two medieval-style armchairs were, inex-

plicably, upholstered in fabric printed to

look like wicker. Matters improved in the

bath, which had a deep, jetted soaking tub

and dual sinks set in a wood counter, but

it was as brown as the ugly plush cover

on the bed. We spent as much time on the

topiary-bordered patio as possible, but it

could not compensate for the aesthetic

crimes committed by the rest of the suite.

We checked out and drove to Beaune,

the walled capital of the Côte d’Or,

where I hoped that Chez les Fatien would

prove a compelling hideaway. With four

rooms surrounding a small courtyard, this

historic property in the city’s beautifully

preserved center was blessedly free from

design disasters. Indeed, our large junior

suite, La Bourguignonne, was lovely with

its ceiling of massive wood beams and a

dramatic wood-paneled niche framing

We continued southeast through

the forests and pastures of the

rolling Morvan. After pausing to admire

the immense hilltop Vézelay Abbey, we

arrived in Saulieu, home to Le Relais

Bernard Loiseau and its Michelin two-

star restaurant. The property has a tragic

past: In 2003, chef Loiseau, already suffer-

ing from depression, committed suicide

when he learned his restaurant might

lose one of its (then) three stars. Having

worked with Loiseau for 20 years, chef

Patrick Bertron took over the kitchen. I

was curious to see if the famous gourmet

retreat merited recommendation today.

Certainly, the restaurant deserves

its continued acclaim. We tried the

“Hommage” menu, which included chef

Bertron’s interpretations of classic

Loiseau recipes. I loved every dish, from

the amuse bouche of a mosaic-like poul-

try terrine en croûte, to the exquisite

mignardises following dessert. Especially

memorable were the red mullet with shell-

fish jus and a ratatouille brunoise; and the

perfectly rendered duck in a dizzyingly

rich foie gras- and truffle-infused sauce,

accompanied by slightly bitter turnips.

I also enjoyed the hotel’s shady

gardens and free-form swimming pool as

well as the compact spa and the clubby,

The grand cru wines of Burgundy are among the most coveted and expensive wines in the

world. Most wineries in Burgundy offer at least a premier cru wine as part of a tasting, and they may also pour a grand cru or two. But, it is rare to be able to taste several grand cru wines in a row. The friendly venues below offer precisely that opportunity. And because you pay for the tasting, there is no obligation for you to purchase a bottle.

S. Chablis This bright and cheerful place in the heart of Chablis offers one of the best deals in all of Burgundy: tastes of four local grands crus for 14 euro. The good-humored owner, Arnaud, speaks perfect English and is happy to tailor a tasting to your palate. It was fascinating to try Chablis from four different grand cru vineyards — La Moutonne, Les Clos, Les Preuses and Vaudésir — ranging in age from 3 to 12 years old. The richness and force of top-quality Chablis never fail to amaze me. 8 Rue Auxerroise, Chablis.

Millésimes à la Carte It’s well worth the short taxi ride to this contemporary wine shop and tasting room outside Beaune’s center. For 40 euro per person we tasted six grands crus, including sumptuous whites from Corton-Charlemagne and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and elegant reds from Corton Clos du Roi and Echezeaux. As we tasted, knowledgeable owner Thierry came over to discuss the various terroirs and winemakers. 1 Rue du Moulin Noize, Beaune.

Marché aux Vins I used to love this tasting venue, housed in the atmospheric cellars and vaulted interior of Beaune’s 15th-century Cordeliers church. Candles provided much of the illumination, and one could taste as much as one liked, including of premier and grands crus. Now the cellars are brightly lit, the best wines are dispensed penuriously from an Enomatic machine and an art gallery displaying garish knockoffs of Jeff Koons and Jackson Pollock occupies much of the old church. What a shame. 7 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune.

Tasting Grands Crus

O E N O LO GY

The friendly English-speaking owner of S. Chablis

Red mullet and mignardises (below) at Le Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu, and lounge and garden at Le Cep in BeauneP

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On this visit to the Côte d’Or, I discovered traditional gourmet experiences as well

as more cutting-edge choices.

Le Jardin des RempartsThe 1930s villa housing this restaurant has pretty dining rooms, but the garden

patio is its real glory. There we had an unforgettable lunch, starting with shelled

escargot in a ring of fluffy garlic cream sauce. Just as good was the juicy Charolais

beef with red wine sauce, mushrooms and a side of ethereally light potato purée.

10 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-79-41.

Le Clos du CèdreLike the more famous Jardin des Remparts, this restaurant has an idyllic garden-

and-mansion setting but an edgier menu. I had an appetizer of tangy mackerel

escabeche with pickled fennel and dots of carrot purée and fish sauce. For my

main, a tender slice of leg of lamb came with crispy lamb sweetbreads and savory

kidney, as well as fresh corn kernels, baby corn, corn purée and corn foam.

10-12 Boulevard Marechal Foch, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-01-01.

Le MillésimeThis chic restaurant is located in a 17th-century building in the heart of Chambolle-

Musigny, a hamlet north of Beaune. The sumptuous fare features modern inter-

pretations of traditional cuisine such as foie gras with smoked eel and leeks, and

slow-cooked veal. Dishes are paired with selections from the excellent wine list.

1 Rue Traversière, Chambolle-Musigny. Tel. (33) 3-80-62-80-37.

Bistrot LucienConveniently located in the heart of the Côte de Nuits region, this brasserie features

food rooted in local tradition. Our mouth watering meal included a hearty coq au

vin, which was a splendid match with the Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the nearby

Clos de Vougeot vineyard, and the most sublime profiteroles in recent memory.

6 Rue du Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin. Tel. (33) 3-80-34-33-20.

Ma CuisineThis bustling Beaune institution offers a host of expertly prepared classics such

as scrambled eggs with truffles, and duck breast with wild mushrooms. The

selections accompany what may be Burgundy’s top wine list. Save room for the

bountiful cheese selections. Reserve well in advance. Passage Saint-Hélène, Beaune.

Tel. (33) 3-80-22-30-22.

BissohThis minimalist, 20-seat Japanese restaurant in Beaune is a break from the typical

Burgundian establishment. Its 10-course tasting menu delivers world-class quality

and creativity. The salted prawns and foie gras tempura stole the show, especially

when paired with a glass of Meursault. The eclectic wine list offers noteworthy

selections at reasonable prices. 42 Rue Maufoux, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-01-02.

Burgundy Restaurant Discoveries

Olive ice cream at Le Clos du Cèdre, and shelled escargot in a garlic cream sauce at Le Jardin des Remparts

the king-size bed, which was topped by

a voluminously fluffy duvet. Comfort-

ably worn leather chairs faced a brick

fireplace with a carved stone mantel.

Touches such as a chandelier festooned

with brass grapes, a grape-emblazoned

wall sconce and a bronze desk clock

surmounted by a sculpture of a young

grape picker gave the room additional

sense of place. The bath was equally as

attractive, with exposed stone walls, a

freestanding tub, dual vanities and a wide

walk-in shower.

Unfortunately, the service at Chez

les Fatien did not rise to the level of the

accommodations, leaving the property

firmly in bed-and-breakfast territory.

When we arrived, the front door was

fortunately open — there is no doorbell

or intercom — allowing us to walk in. The

owners, while very personable, were often

absent, expecting guests to call their

cell phone should anything be required.

When in Beaune, I highly recom-

mend making an appointment for a wine

tasting next door to Chez les Fatien at

Maison Fatien Père & Fils. The engaging

Charly Fatien led us through the exten-

sive centuries-old cellars there, giving

us samples straight from the barrels that

included wines from Gevrey-Chambertin,

Pommard and Rully, among others.

Beautiful though Chez les Fatien

may be, it is suited only to self-sufficient

travelers. My preferred hotel in Beaune

remains Le Cep: This 65-room property

has a full staff, plus an impressive new

spa. H

To read about a recent visit to some of Burgundy’s

foremost wineries by Andrew Harper Wine Concierge

Hal Oates, visit AndrewHarper.com/go/burgundy-wine. PH

OTO

S B

Y A

ND

RE

W H

AR

PER

/ ALL PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


Each Caribbean island has its own

distinctive personality, but the

one that delights almost everyone

is St. Barths. With its status as a DOM

(Département d’Outre-Mer), St. Barths is

as much a part of France as Normandy

or Provence, even if the mother country

is 4,100 miles away. It is also perceptibly

one of the happiest, most polite and

most peaceful places in the world. The

two villas) resort set amid 10 acres of

grounds and fronting the lovely Baie des

Flamands was renamed as the Cheval

Blanc St-Barth Isle de France in 2014,

when it became the third property in

luxury conglomerate LVMH’s growing

roster of hotels. The other Cheval Blanc

resorts are located in Courchevel and the

Maldives, and hotels are under develop-

ment in Paris and Oman. Following the

comprehensive program of renovation

and redecoration at Isle de France, we

decided to make a return visit.

First impressions matter, and the

young staff members were warm and

welcoming on arrival. The men were

dressed in white polo shirts and white

canvas slacks, while the women wore

pretty, sleeveless Creole-style seersucker

dresses. This studied informality set a

relaxed island tone immediately, as did

the old-fashioned glass drink dispensers,

the ceiling fans in the lobby, the white

wicker furniture with floral chintz cush-

ions and the decorative accents of pale

salmon pink.

I’d hoped to find that the strong sense

of place had not been compromised by

too much anonymous international style.

I needn’t have worried; the beachfront

rooms in the main villa still have an entire-

white sand beaches are dazzling; the

food is consistently excellent; and the

island’s capital, Gustavia, has arguably

the prettiest harbor in the Caribbean (its

only real rival is St. George’s, Grenada).

St. Barths has recently seen major

renovations of several of its most

famous hotels, notably the Isle de France.

This intimate 40-room (four suites,

GUSTAVIAHARBOR

SHELLBEACH

ANSEDU

GOUVERNEUR

ANSEDE

TOINY

BAIE DEST-JEAN

3

2

ILE FREGATE

ILE CHEVREAU

L’Isola

ANSEDE

GRANDESALINE

L’Esprit

RestaurantLe Toiny

Restaurant Le Sereno

0

0

1 KM

1 MI

ANSEDE

GRANDFOND

ANSE DECOLOMBIER

ILE TORTUE

ANSEDES

FLAMANDS ANSEDES

LEZARDS

ANSE DU GRANDCUL-DE-SAC

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On the Rocks

4ANSE DELORIENT

Orega

= Recommended Restaurants

ST. BARTHS

1 Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France

2 Hôtel Le Toiny3 Eden Rock4 Hôtel Christopher

Beach Suite living room at Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France / © PIERRE CARREAU

C L A S S I C R E S O R T S U P G R A D E D A N D R E F U R B I S H E D

Revisiting Seductive St. Barths


ly appropriate décor with white walls and

ceilings, white tile floors, white cotton

slip-covered armchairs and dove-gray

wooden desks and chests of drawers. Our

bed was made up with perfectly ironed,

tautly tucked white cotton sheets. Every-

thing about the room was well-thought-

out, including the window treatment that

allowed full, partial and light shade with

two sets of curtains and shutters.

The spacious bath, with an oversize

enameled soaking tub, separate shower

and stone counter, was flooded with natu-

ral light and came with oyster-colored

tile floors and neat piles of exception-

ally plush towels. In addition to Cheval

Blanc toiletries, there were several skin

creams, including an après-soleil, a

high-SPF lip balm, bath salts, bath cubes

and bath oil.

Once we’d settled in, we strolled

over to lunch at La Cabane de l’Isle, the

hotel’s beach restaurant. There you eat

under the main awning or beneath an

individual beach umbrella, just a few

dozen feet from the azure water. Unlike

many beach restaurants, this one offers

excellent service along with its relaxed

atmosphere. My red tuna tartare with

avocado was outstanding. Afterward we

spent a quiet afternoon reading, swim-

ming and dozing.

Whether you eat in or decide to head

to a restaurant elsewhere, Le White Bar

is a lovely setting for pre-dinner drinks.

I especially recommend the cocktails

made with rums from the French islands

of Martinique and Guadeloupe. The hotel’s

formal evening restaurant, La Case de

l’Isle, features the cooking of talented

Brittany-born chef Yann Vinsot. In the

exceptionally pleasant open-air dining

room, we enjoyed local rock lobster

flambéed in rum, and rack of lamb glazed

with red miso.

The Isle de France has an “Ambas-

sador” system — each room is assigned

a personal concierge at check-in — but

being familiar with the island, we thought

it unlikely that we would require this

service. However, it was a valuable tip from

our Ambassador that took us to Orega, a

restaurant that opened in Gustavia last

December and which serves unexpectedly

delicious sushi and sashimi.

The Cheval Blanc Spa comprises

a sauna, a relaxation pavilion and four

Ligne St. Barth While almost every international luxury brand has a boutique in

Gustavia, I greatly prefer local shops. One of the best is Ligne St. Barth, a skincare

and cosmetics company that was founded by Hervé Brin, descendant of one of the

oldest families on the island. Working with his German wife, Birgit, he produces

an excellent line of all-natural lotions and suntanning creams as well as a variety

of products made from purified seawater and Caribbean fruit and plant extracts.

The products are beautifully packaged, they work, and it seems that everyone in St.

Barths appreciates them. Two favorites are the Mango Butter Cream moisturizer

and the SPF 30 Roucou Sunscreen Lotion. Route de Saline, L’Orient.

MC2 Saint Barth Any man who finds it a challenge to buy a pair of comfortable,

good-looking swim trunks might want to stop by this shop, which sells well-made,

reasonably priced swimwear. The label was founded on St. Barths, and today the

company has boutiques in many of the world’s most glamorous beach destina-

tions, including Porto Cervo in Sardinia, Forte dei Marmi in Tuscany, Mykonos in

the Cyclades and Formentera in the Balearics. Rue du General de Gaulle, Gustavia.

Poupette St Barth Many St. Barths shops carry European labels not found in

North America. Poupette in Gustavia sells fun, fluttery clothing, including pareos,

scarves, shawls and shirts in colorful handkerchief-weight cotton prints. Rue de

la Republique, Gustavia.

Three Great Shops for Beach-Goers

Pool, and beach restaurant at Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France / © PIERRE CARREAU

“ Unlike many beach restaurants, La Cabane de l’Isle offers excellent service and outstanding food as well as a relaxed atmosphere.


treatment rooms. Guerlain has created

a wide range of face and body treat-

ments especially for the resort. Be sure

not to miss its signature 50-minute

treatment, which combines a facial and

a massage.

If the Cheval Blanc is an ideal desti-

nation for couples, it also offers suitable

accommodations for families, notably in

the 12 bungalows found on lush grounds

across from the main hotel building.

Decorated in the same style as the main

lodge, these spacious bungalows come

with large, private outdoor terraces and

can be linked to form compounds. Since

they do not have seaviews, they’re more

reasonably priced than beachfront rooms

and suites. The two-bedroom Garden

Suite with a private pool is another good

option for families.

Today, the Cheval Blanc St-Barths

Isle de France — a hotel I’ve always

enjoyed — is even better in terms of the

décor, service and comforts than it has

been in the past. This is one of the Carib-

bean’s foremost resorts, and it cannot be

recommended too highly.

On the island’s southeastern coast —

known as the Côte Sauvage — Hôtel

Le Toiny was recently acquired by new

owners Charlie and Mandie Vere Nicoll,

and summer 2015 saw a multimillion-

dollar renovation program of the idyllic

hideaway. Set on 42 acres of grounds that

gently slope down to the Bay of Toiny, the

14 villas with private pools have been

redecorated in a soothing scheme of

neutral colors and earth tones by London-

based interior designer Bee Osborn. A

new Beach Club has been added, where

it was our particular pleasure to spend a

day reading in hammocks and lounging

in the shade of the seaside coconut grove.

The hotel’s main public areas include

a new oyster shell-lined open-air bar,

which provides an ideal venue for cock-

tails before dinner at the excellent con-

temporary and Mediterranean-influenced

Le Toiny Restaurant (formerly Le Gaïac).

St. Barths may be idyllic, but alas, it

is not cheap. Travelers who find the

rates too steep at hotels such as the Cheval

Blanc and Le Toiny — possibly those with

children — may wish to consider the

42-room Hôtel Christopher, a Pointe

H OT E L S AT A G L A N C E

Le Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France A96L I K E The prevailing good manners of the staff; the quiet atmosphere, which recalls that of the French Atlantic islands, such as the Ile de Ré, more than it does St. Tropez; the superb Guerlain spa. D IS L I K E The disco soundtrack played at the beach restaurant at noon — birdsong and the sound of the waves are preferable. G O O D

TO K N OW Surprisingly, this is a family-friendly property. Beach Room, $1,250; Beach Junior Suite, $1,650. Baie des Flamands 97133. Tel. (590) 590-276-181. chevalblanc.com

Hôtel Le Toiny A95L I K E The tranquil hideaway atmosphere; the privacy of the spacious villas; the glorious seaview. D IS L I K E The beach is more suitable for surfing than swimming. G O O D TO K N OW Despite a change in the style of cuisine, Le Toiny Restaurant remains one of the best on the island. Junior Suite, $1,960; Villa, $2,500. Anse de Toiny 97133. Tel. (590) 590-278-888. letoiny.com

Hôtel Christopher A91L I K E The quiet setting; the charming service; the excellent restaurants and spa. D IS L I K E The lack of a beach at the resort itself. G O O D TO K N OW It is advisable to book spa appointments in advance, especially during high season.Ocean Junior Suite, $950; Ocean Suite, $2,040. Pointe Milou F-97133. Tel. (590) 590-276-363. hotelchristopher.com

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and our other St. Barths recommendation: Eden Rock (94).

Champagne lounge, villa bedroom, and overview of main building and villas at Le Toiny / © JEAN PHILIPPE PITER

“ Le Toiny was recently acquired by new owners, and summer 2015 saw a multimillion-dollar renovation program of this idyllic hideaway.


Milou favorite with luxury-loving but

value-conscious French vacationers.

We joined them for a night and quickly

understood why this resort is so popular.

For starters, it has one of the largest pools

on St. Barths — a welcome amenity at a

property without beach access — plus two

excellent restaurants: Mango for lunch

and the dressier, more gastronomically

ambitious Taïno for dinner. There is also

a Sisley Spa at this relaxed, friendly,

feet-in-the-sand place. And, unlike fash-

ionable and celebrity-haunted hotels such

as the Eden Rock, there’s no “scene” here

to speak of.

We had booked an Ocean Deluxe

Terrace Room, which had a private terrace

with superb views of the sea from a double

daybed. The large room itself came with

limestone floors that were pleasantly

cool underfoot, an aluminum ceiling fan,

a teak-framed bed made up in Egyptian

cotton sheets, a built-in teak chest of draw-

ers and a spacious bath with a separate

rainfall shower and an egg-shaped black

granite tub that was extra-long.

A highlight of our brief stay was the

excellent cooking of young French chef

Jean-Baptiste Piard. A delicious dinner

at Taïno began with tuna gravlax with

flying fish eggs and basil caviar (small,

soft green pearls filled with basil-infused

oil), and continued with roasted lobster

tail and boned suckling pig, surely the

most elegant version of surf-and-turf on

the island.

As always, we left St. Barths with

real regret. Fortunately, the debut of Le

Barthélemy (see box) will provide an

excellent reason for a prompt return.

Ultimately, maybe the best thing about

St. Barths is that “plus ça change, plus

c’est la même chose” — the more things

change, the more they stay the same. H

Opened last December by a French architect with a passion for Japanese food, Orega has

quickly become one of the most popular restau-rants on the island. The interior is decorated with paintings by the owner’s Ukrainian artist wife. A Japanese master produces outstanding sushi and sashimi from impeccably fresh fish — no mean feat given the logistics of delivery to a small Caribbean island — as well as worldly Franco-Japanese dishes like black cod glazed with miso, or lobster ravioli in mushroom sauce. Rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia. Tel. (590) 590-524-531.

To read about all of my favorite restaurants in St. Barths, visit AndrewHarper.com.

Dining Highlight

G A S T R O N O M Y

This month is the scheduled debut of Le Barthélemy, a 46-room property on the

Baie de Grand Cul-de-Sac situated on the wild northeastern-most tip of the island. Amenities will include a spa employing La Mer products, and the cuisine will be overseen by chef Guy Martin of the two-star Le Grand Véfour in Paris. Rooms will have a contemporary Caribbean décor created by Paris-based decorator Sybille de Margerie, with plantation ceilings, four poster beds and baths stocked with Hermès toiletries.

Anticipated Debut

H OT E L N E WS

Pool, and Panoramic Suite at Hôtel Christopher / POOL: © PIERRE CARREAU

Sushi prepared omakase-style at Orega

Detail of room at Le Barthelémy / © PIERRE CARREAU

“ This is a relaxed, friendly, feet-in-the-sand place. And, unlike some fashionable and celebrity-haunted hotels, there’s no “scene” here to speak of.

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. SUBSCRIBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

New and NoteworthyLake Timara Lodge ReinventedSet on an idyllic estate in New Zealand’s Marlborough wine region, Lake Timara

Lodge will reopen in October after a comprehensive program of renovation and

refurbishment. The public areas have been restyled, and an Executive Chef has been

hired by new owners to create menus of healthy and organic cuisine. Personally,

I am particularly keen to see the enhancements that have been made to the 25 acres

of gardens, which are renowned as some of the loveliest in the country. A new kiwi

fern garden has been added, as have 200 rhododendrons, 200 azaleas, a variety of

fruit trees (including 40 ornamental pear trees), a kitchen herb plot and several

hundred yards of new stone walling.

Private Jet Safaris from &BeyondThe well-respected safari company &Beyond, a number of whose lodges I recom-

mend, is now offering glamorous Africa itineraries by private jet. Aircraft like the

Embraer ERJ 145 offer couches and living areas, making air travel exceptionally

comfortable. All private jet expeditions include the opportunity to meet leading

wildlife and conservation experts. Unsurprisingly, such trips are not inexpensive.

A 19-day trip throughout East and Southern Africa in September/October 2017 costs

$116,500 per person for a maximum of 12 travelers.

Gagnaire Comes to BordeauxLa Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez, a boutique hotel in Bordeaux owned by one of

France’s most distinguished winemakers, opened at the end of 2014 with a restaurant

under the direction of the legendary Joël Robuchon. The latter’s brief, it is rumored,

was to acquire three Michelin stars as quickly as possible, but economic times have

been tough in France of late, and the business model became outmoded. Supervision

of the kitchen has now passed to another luminary, Pierre Gagnaire, chef and owner

of his eponymous three-star restaurant located at 6 Rue Balzac in Paris. Gagnaire

has said that he will take time to discover local producers and to understand the

city and its inhabitants. The restaurant promises more modestly priced menus, in

addition to haute cuisine, and it will henceforth aim to appeal to a wider clientele.

Oyster mushrooms in a Dijon market / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

I have recently updated two of my personal travel guides, France & Monaco and Northern Europe & Russia, which feature my hotel recommendations, regional notebooks, touring maps and restaurants. Books are mailed bimonthly to new and Premier members, and they are also available for individual purchase or as a set at AndrewHarper.com/store/harper-collection.

It seems hard to believe, but the holidays are approaching once more. Although I always

enjoy the festivities, thinking of suitable presents is a recurring nightmare. One preferred solution to my annual dilemma is to give Andrew Harper memberships as gifts. This may seem rather unimaginative of me, but I’m pleased to say they’re invariably well-received. Over the years, Andrew Harper has expanded to a point where I sincerely believe we offer an unrivaled range of products, services and benefits. The Hideaway Report remains the most reliable and authoritative source of information about luxury travel, and The Andrew Harper Collection is a unique repository of travel wisdom. In addition, the Travel Office is skilled at crafting travel arrangements of complexity and sophistication, and membership brings with it a remarkable range of valuable benefits. So I urge you to follow my example: Andrew Harper memberships make ideal gifts for family, friends and valued business colleagues. After decades of globe-trotting, I still believe travel to be one of the supreme pleasures of life. Give the world as a gift this coming holiday season: Call (866) 831-4314, or visit AndrewHarper.com/go/gift.

Give the Gift of Travel This Holiday Season

L A S T LO O K

Harper Collection Updates

L A S T WO R D

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