Ocean Waves

What processes drive ocean waves?

• If you have ever been to the beach or sailed on the sea, you know the ocean’s surface has many faces.

• Sometimes the water is choppy, sending big waves to the shore; while, on other days, the water can be calm, not even a ripple hitting the shore.

• A Wave is rhythmic movement

that carries energy through matter or space.

• In oceans, waves are regular up-and-down movement of water.

• In oceans, waves may be

caused by wind or underwater earthquakes.

•Do you know the name of a wave caused by an earthquake?

Wind causes waves… •Wind blowing across the ocean

transfers energy to the water through friction.

•When particles in the moving air rub against particles of water, energy passes from the air to the water!

•This energy travels in the form of waves.

3 Magic Ingredients To Create Waves

1. The speed (Force) of the wind

2. The length of time it blows

3. The distance over which it blows.

When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses.

This is called a breaker.

Parts of a Wave

• Crest – highest point of a wave

• Trough – lowest point of a wave

Parts of a Wave

• Wave Height – distance

between the crest and the trough

• Wavelength – distance between two crests or two troughs

Can you identify the parts of a wave? Draw and label the diagram below.

1

2 3

4

Ticket Out the Door…

1. What causes waves?

2. What are the 3 ingredients for waves?

3. The highest point of a wave is called the _____________.

4. The lowest point of a wave is called the _____________.

5. The distance of neighboring crests is called wave __________.