ocean waves and tides · tides • the rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. • caused by a...
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Ocean Waves and Tides
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Waves
• A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space.
• In oceans, waves move through seawater
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Waves
Caused by: • Wind • Earthquakes • Gravitational force of the Moon
and Sun.
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Parts of a Wave
• Crest – highest point of a wave • Trough – lowest point of a wave • Wave Height – vertical distance
between the crest and the trough • Wavelength – horizontal distance
between two crests or two troughs
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Wavelength
Wave Height
Crest
Trough
Still Water
Wave Parts
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Wave Movement
• When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.
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Wave Movement
• When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses.
• Called a breaker. • In this case, water does move
forward and backward.
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Waves Caused by Wind
• When wind blows across a body of water, friction causes the water to move along with the wind.
• Wave Height depends on – – Wind speed – Distance over which the wind blows – Length of time the wind blows
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Tides
• The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide.
• Caused by a giant wave. • One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes
about 12 hrs and 25 min. • Tidal range is the difference in ocean
level between high-tide and low-tide
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What is the Tidal Range?
• HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft • HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft • HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft
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Gravitational Effect of the Moon
• Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: – one directly under the moon – another on the exact opposite side
• As the Earth spins, the bulges
follow the moon.
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Gravitational Effect of the Sun
• Spring Tides – Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up – High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal
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Gravitational Effect of the Sun
• Neap Tides – Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles
– High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal
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The End