nymphalidea supplement - wordpress.com · 2015-11-03 ·...
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©Melinda VerMeer 2014. All rights reserved. For personal use only. For pattern support, please contact [email protected]
Nymphalidea Supplement By Melinda VerMeer Description: Since the original Nymphalidea pattern was published in Knitty, many knitters have asked advise on altering it’s size and shape. This PDF is intended to accompany the original pattern instructions and summarizes some of the most popular alterations that have been done on the pattern as well as a photo tutorial on blocking. Welt Alternate Once approximately half the shawl has been completed per the original instructions, begin working the welt as follows for a straighter top edge Row 1: P2, P2tog, P to end (1 st decreased) Row 2: P2, YO, P to end (1 st increased) Row 3: K2, K2tog, K to end (1 st decreased) Row 4: K2, YO, K to end (1 st increased)
Wedge Alternate To incorporate wedges that go deeper into the shawl, below are the increments that would follow Wedge D. It is up to you how many of each sized wedge you complete and how many of the larger you would like to include. The original instructions called for completing Wedge D 28 times. Below are a few suggestions for using the additional wedges:
A 1 time, B 1 time, C 1 time, D 10 times, E 10 times and F 10 times A 1 time, B 1 time, C 1 time, D 2 times, E 4 times, F 8 times and G 16 times A 1 time, B 1 time, C 1 time, D 18 times, E 4 times, F 4 times and G 4 times A 1 time, B 1 time, C 1 time, D 25 times, E 1 times, F 1 times and G 1 times
Additionally, you can continue making wider and wider wedges (H, I, J, K, etc) by increasing the (YO, K2tog) by 2 sets over the prior wedge or make any number of wedges you would like. Wedge E Row 1 [WS]: P2, p2tog, p to end. 1 st decreased. Row 2 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 11 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 3, 5, 7 [WS]: Sl1, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 10 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 6 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 9 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 8 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 8 times, k until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2. Wedge F Row 1 [WS]: P2, p2tog, p to end. 1 st decreased. Row 2 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 13 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 3, 5, 7 [WS]: Sl1, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 12 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 6 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 11 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 8 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 10 times, k until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2. Wedge G Row 1 [WS]: P2, p2tog, p to end. 1 st decreased. Row 2 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 15 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 3, 5, 7 [WS]: Sl1, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 14 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 6 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 13 times, turn. 1 st increased. Row 8 [RS]: K2, YO, k1, [YO, k2tog] 12 times, k until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2.
Nymphalidea Extras – English - 2 -
©Melinda VerMeer 2014. All rights reserved. For personal use only. For pattern support, please contact [email protected]
Colors Here are a few suggestions for how to use color to make your shawl unique.
Use two different gradient yarns, one for the welts and one for the wedges Add a third color as a pop of color on a few of the wedges or welts Use a solid or semi-‐solid for the wedges and a gradient for the wedges Use a single color for both the wedges and welts Choose a neutral color for the welts and use a different stash-‐busting scrap for each wedge
Blocking When first off the needles, you will have a shape that looks like an up-‐side-‐down triangle with the short edges being the left selvage and the bound-‐off edge and the lace (right selvage) as the long edge.
Soak my pieces to be blocked with Soak and warm (100F or about the temperature you wash your hands in) water and let it sit for at least 20 minutes. After it’s soaked, the water is drained and any excess is squeezed out. Lay the wet piece out in a large bath towel, fold and roll up the towel and stand on the towel roll to get the majority of the water out. First thread a wire thru the left selvage edge stitches. You do not need to be precise on where the wire goes thru, just try to hit at least every welt edge and make sure to go between stitches instead of puncturing the yarn. Next thread a second (and third depending on the length) wire thru the bound-‐off edge stitches. Since the piece will be stretched when pinned out, you want to make sure to leave some spare wire at each end. Next wires are threaded thru the lace edge at each welt – for mine, I used three wires on this edge
Since this edge is going to be pulled out into points, I thread the wires thru the welt at about the second stitch from the edge to give it a little more stability when pulled out. If going into the very edge stitch, that stitch could get distorted and pulled instead of the entire welt coming along with it. Now that all the wires are in place, I begin by placing a pin at the bottom center and top center. It does have to be exact and for these first pins, you don’t want to pull too much from the original shape – just stabilize it.
Nymphalidea Extras – English - 3 -
©Melinda VerMeer 2014. All rights reserved. For personal use only. For pattern support, please contact [email protected]
Now is when you really begin to form the shape. Starting at the top center, begin adding pins outward to the right and left to create a smooth top line. As you go, pull the length out side to side. Add a few pins along the bottom edge to begin creating it’s crescent shape. Adjust pins as you go to get smooth lines and a shape you are happy with. The thing I love about using the wires is how easy it is to re-‐arrange the shape without having to pick up and move a hundred pins. I generally begin without a ton of tension and a few pins. Then once it begins to take shape, pull the wires outward and move the pins out to where the wire is pulled to.
With sock and lace weight yarn, you have to work pretty quickly to have it still damp by the time all the pins are placed. And you want to leave the wires and pins in place until it is 100% dry. Depending on your climate, the yarn weight and how much moisture you removed before beginning, this could be an hour or several days for a bulky project. Once the pins and wires are removed, the piece will relax a bit, so if you are wanting a specific width/length after it is blocked, and blocking pretty aggressively, you may want to pull it out just little more to compensate for it bouncing back a little.