northern india rep 12 - birdquest

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern India 2012 www.birdquest-tours.com

NORTHERN INDIA

24 NOVEMBER – 12 DECEMBER 2012

LEADER: DAVE FARROW

This year’s Northern India tour was once again a feast of avian delights, scoring 403 bird species recorded – 366 on the main tour and an additional 37 recorded on the Ranthambore extension. There were many highlights, this tour is full of regional specialities and Indian subcontinent endemics, but memorable birds included stunning views of 41 Indian Skimmers alongside Black-bellied Tern at the Chambal river, two tame Ibisbills, nine species of owl, all seen in daylight, including Brown and Tawny Fish Owls, amazing views of males of both Siberian and Himalayan Rubythroat on a bush side-by-side, and Lammergeier soaring low


overhead, We also saw Indian Black Ibis, Indian Spotted Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagles, White-rumped Vultures, 15 species of Woodpecker including Himalayan Pied and Himalayan Flameback, Dalmatian Pelicans, Black-necked Stork, Sarus Crane, Great Thick-knee, Brown Crake, River Tern, Sand Lark, Altai Accentors, Golden Bush-Robin, Nepal, Pygmy and Scaly-bellied Wren-Babblers, six species of Laughingthrush, Spot-winged Tit, Scarlet Finch and White-capped Bunting. The mammal of the trip? Tiger of course, with sightings of at least three individuals; two at Corbett National Park, and then a female at Ranthambore Tiger Reserve. In addition, the extension to Ranthambore was very successful for birds and we found Painted Spurfowl, Jungle and Rock Bush-Quails, Indian Vultures, Indian Eagle-Owl, White-naped Flameback, Rufous-tailed Lark, Black-breasted Weaver, Grey-necked Bunting, and Painted and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. Our tour began as we came together in the evening at our Delhi hotel, where we enjoyed a dinner together before our early departure for the Himalayas the following morning. We boarded our monolithic bus for the long journey to Corbett National Park, and sped through the swollen conurbation until we emerged in the mustard fields of the Gangetic Plain. Reaching the great river itself we set off on foot to find our first Indian birds, seeing River Lapwings and Ruddy Shelducks on the exposed sandbanks, numerous Temminck's Stints, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Indian Spot-billed Ducks, White, Masked and Amur Wagtails, and a distant Sand Lark looking ghostly against the darker mud. Pressing on towards the foothills, the birds were rather few along the way (barring some hordes of Black Kites) but we did find Yellow-footed Green Pigeons and a trio of Indian Black Ibis among the commoner species. We arrived at our well-appointed hotel nestled above the Kosi river after dark, and prepared for a busy days birding ahead.

Ibisbill Asian Elephant

We began early the next morning with a drive down to an overlook and bridge, where we hoped to find an Ibisbill. Scanning the far rapids and shingle islands for a cryptic lump among the boulders, this was quickly abandoned as a pair of these remarkable birds were spotted right below us, close by in the shallows where we had the bizarre experience of looking directly down on them from our elevated position as they fed in the shallows. A Wallcreeper appeared by flying across the river, then proceeded to sit preening in the early morning sun on the boulders lining the river. We also saw Woolly-necked Stork, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, and a flock of Lemon-rumped Leaf Warblers and Grey-hooded Warblers in nearby bushes. We explored further down the road where we found Alexandrine Parakeets investigating a nest hole, and a delightful Collared Falconet hunting from dead trees. Roadside bird flocks were busy and we found a noisy group mobbing an Asian Barred Owlet, with Black-chinned Babblers, Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Blue-winged Minla, Fulvous-breasted Pied and Grey-crowned Pygmy Woodpeckers, Long-tailed and Scarlet Minivets, Pied Flycatcher Shrikes and Grey Tits. We found a pair of Asian Elephants feeding in some bamboo, and our last bird before midday was a fantastic Tawny Fish Owl sat roosting in a big tree. After lunch at our hotel we walked down to the nearby Kosi River and found another two Tawny Fish Owls


roosting side by side, plus Black-lored Yellow Tit, Black-naped Green Woodpecker, a Whistlers Warbler, and on the river itself we saw Brown Dipper. The afternoon activity tailed off later as we searched unsuccessfully for Forktails, although we did find Snowy-browed Flycatcher and had a brief look at a Puff-throated Babbler before dusk fell.

Collared Falconet Pallas’s Fish Eagle & Gharial

The next morning we began around our hotel with an Orange-bellied Leafbird, revisited the pair of Tawny Fish Owls, and found two Nepal Wren-Babblers beside the road that performed well, showing their immaculate upperparts. Also here were Red-throated and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, a confiding male Small Niltava, and a short way down the highway we found a flock of Blue-winged Minla and Grey-breasted Prinias. We entered Corbett National Park and began driving the track through the tall Sal trees, soon meeting a bird flock which held a surprise Chestnut-crowned Warbler, a write-in for the tour, here at the far western edge of its range. Another surprise came in the form of a Small-billed Scaly Thrush that fed on the open forest floor, confident in its camouflage abilities, and at a picnic stop we had our first good looks at Hume's Leaf Warbler and Siberian Chiffchaff, plus a couple of showy Hoopoes. We also saw Mountain Hawk Eagle and Himalayan Vultures, and the striking Gharial alongside rather more thickset Mugger. Continuing on to Dhikala, we checked in before heading out in the jeeps, and a quick scan of the lake shore here revealed Eurasian Spoonbill, Black and Black-necked Storks, Great Thick-knees, and many ducks including Eurasian Teal, Common Pochard, Gadwall, Mallard and Ruddy Shelduck. Driving out into the grassland close to our accommodation, we found a Jungle Owlet sat on a telephone wire, Long-tailed Shrikes, Plum-headed Parakeets, Bright-capped Cisticola, and a pair of Hen Harrier.

The next day we began early, first out from the compound into the misty jungle, and very soon after a stripey lump emerged out of the gloom on the track ahead – Tiger! A great if short view, and after spending an hour cruising the area and waiting at strategic points, we realised how lucky we had been to get the sighting at all. We headed off for our morning's birding, finding Lesser and Greater Yellownapes and a single but welcome Himalayan Flameback, many Red Junglefowl, a pair of Kaleej Pheasants, and for some of us a furtive Pygmy Wren-Babbler. A pair of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers showed well, while in open grassy areas we saw Oriental Skylark and Richard's Pipit. We coaxed a Large Bush Warbler into view, saw both Changeable and Mountain Hawk Eagles perched, and a sneaky Common Quail showed briefly by the roadside. Around our lodgings during the midday ‘no-safari’ period we scanned the lakeshore and saw Pallas's Fish Eagles, Red-crested Pochard, a close pair of very cute Collared Falconet, and a Little Pied Flycatcher. Once more into the jeeps for the afternoon, we found a perched Lesser Fish Eagle, Yellow-browed Tesia skulking noisily by the roadside, and Common Rosefinch and Red Avadavat lurked in the taller grass.

We began at dawn with another Tiger hunt, and hearing alarm calls from Langurs and cries from mahouts on Elephants from somewhere inside the thicket, we parked up in on the track, luckily in the right place once again, and were rewarded by quick views of first one then another Tiger skipping across the track. Then it


was time to head out of the park, collecting as we went a fine pair of Brown Fish Owls, and some difficult views of two Great Slaty Woodpeckers hiding in a tree. We also found a quartet of Crested Buntings and a Rosy Pipit, another Pallas's Fish Eagle, then we headed out to the gate and onto the noisy road, once more into the world of the car horn! Nearby we watched some White-rumped Vultures at a nesting site (with just five seen on the tour its tragic to consider how common they used to be) plus a Brown Rock Chat, and at Ramnagar barrage we ate our lunch in view of a horde of Ruddy Shelduck and a Bonelli's Eagle. We headed up the hill to Naini Tal, collecting en-route some Greater Flamebacks, Red-billed Blue Magpies and Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush in roadside forest, and higher still we found a rather vagrant opistoleuca Variable Wheatear. We reached the cool heights of Naini Tal, at 2000m above sea level, rather cold outside our comfortable hotel!

We headed for Sat Tal in the cool bright morning under blue skies, and after being slightly delayed by a flock of seven Kaleej Pheasants on the road, we began exploring the gardens, roadside thickets and gullies. Immediately we found gorgeous Black-headed Jays and numerous Red-billed Magpies, further explorations revealed Red-billed Leiothrix, a handsome Spotted Forktail feeding in a small stream, and a quartet of lovely Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes. We made our way down towards the lake and into the forest, where we found a busy flock of Woodpeckers that included the restricted range Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Lesser and Greater Yellownapes, plus Himalayan Black and Ashy Bulbuls. We walked down a small trail where we had an absurdly close view of Chestnut-headed Tesia, and a couple of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers showed well. After lunch we headed back to the fields where we found Himalayan Rubythroat, Russet Sparrow and a Dusky Warbler, but further birding was put on hold when there was something of a mishap. The overhanging edge of a gully gave way from under one of our group, who took a plunge down a steep slope and unfortunately sustained a broken arm. A lucky escape in many ways!

Black-headed Jay Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush

We headed into the mountains at dawn, driving along an icy winding road, as the rising sun lit up the line of snowy Himalayan peaks off to our right, spectacularly illuminated in pink for a brief moment. We reached an area of grassy slopes hoping to find Cheer Pheasant, however none were available. We did however enjoy a large flock of Altai Accentors, Blue-capped Redstarts, and a wonderful display by a Lammergeier and several Himalayan Vultures that took to the air and soared slowly upwards, flying in big arcs over our heads. We also found Spot-winged Tits and White-tailed Nuthatches, and as we dropped lower we found a noisy Maroon Oriole and an even noisier male Rufous-bellied Woodpecker. As we entered wonderful mixed forest of rhododendron and oak, we found sprite-like Black-faced Warblers and Yellow-browed Tit, and found one of our primary targets - a fine male Himalayan Woodpecker feeding quietly on a thick trunk. The snowy mountains to our north were crystal clear, and a Leopard bellowed repeatedly from below us on the steep slope. Our last point was at the former birding site of Snow View, where despite the squalor of rubbish heaps and a new amusement Park, we added Oriental Turtle Dove, Nepal House Martin and an Asian Barred Owlet.


Exploring a different side of the hills, roadside stops in the cold early morning produced our first Rock Buntings, more Blue-fronted and Blue-capped Redstarts, and the ever-present Streaked Laughingthrushes. We then had a pleasant and productive walk into the Mangoli valley, a mosaic of forest and fields and some charming classic Himalayan villages. We found a Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler that popped out at very close range for an exquisite view, then we found Grey-faced Leaf Warbler, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, a fine male Himalayan Bluetail, Black Eagle, a noisy group of Striated Laughingthrushes plus a pair of Red-headed Laughingthrushes, Grey-sided Bush-Warbler, and a female Golden Bush Robin. We ate our picnic with a stunning view down to the plains, then explored another sidetrack where we rescued a tiny puppy, seemingly abandoned on the mountainside. Having suddenly accrued some good karma, it seemed as if we had immediate payback when had the thrill of seeing a male Himalayan Rubythroat appearing on top of a bush alongside a male Siberian Rubythroat! Thus the puppy was named ‘Ruby’ – what else! The afternoon never really recovered from this event, and we added no more new species, although Brown-fronted Woodpecker and Kaleej Pheasant kept us entertained.

Bidding farewell to the mountains, we paused on our route to the plains and found a surprise Scarlet Finch, though little else could be coaxed from the hill forest before it was time to hit the road. And what a road. An ill-advised route from Kaladunghi meant we travelled about 30 km in two hours, bumping along a dusty road that had the surface scraped off, while tractors overloaded with sugar cane blocked our progress and at times gridlocked the small villages. After this frustrating ordeal we paused by the Ramganga River, where the shallows were thronged with birds. We managed to stay long enough to add Ruff and Wood Sandpiper, before the filth and squalor of the place drove us back onto the bus! From here we hit better roads as far as the suburbs of Delhi, a few Indian Rollers appeared on wires, and a rubbish mountain on the outskirts of the city was almost blotted out by thousands of Black Kites swarming over it. After the minor issue of gridlock in Delhi's rush hour traffic, we were grateful to reach our hotel for the night.

Himalayan peaks from Naini Tal Siberian Rubythroat

The next morning we rose very early and drove to New Delhi Railway Station (traffic not a problem now!) and took the express train to Agra. Glad to be off the roads, we quickly covered the 195km in just two hours, and on arrival were whisked away to a hotel for a fine breakfast. Next on the menu was a visit to the peerless Taj Mahal, which we efficiently processed, and even added a few birds on the adjacent river such as Black-eared Kite, Egyptian Vulture and a horde of Ruddy Shelduck. Next we sped off (leaving the guide disappointed we were not going to endure a marble factory demonstration!) and headed for the Chambal Safari Lodge. This was an exquisite setting after all the road journeys, and we had a very tasty lunch before setting off to explore the grounds and surrounding fields with the in-house wildlife guide, Gaj. We found Red-breasted and Red-throated Flycatchers, roosting Spotted Owlets and Brown Boobook, a good number of Citrine Wagtails together with Bronze-winged Jacanas on nearby ponds, Indian Silverbill, Yellow-throated Sparrows, our first Indian Black Robin, Ashy-crowned Finch Lark, Black-headed Ibis, Tawny and Tree Pipits


and a Southern Grey Shrike. After dinner we had a short walk in the garden and found by torchlight two lovely Common Palm Civets.

The next morning we drove down to the nearby National Chambal Sanctuary that extends along the Chambal river, and began our birding in the badlands of eroded sandy hillocks. We quickly found Rufous-fronted Prinias, plus White-eared Bulbuls, Yellow-eyed and Common Babblers, on the riverside plain we found Desert and Variable Wheatears, Crested Larks, Tawny Pipits, Ashy-crowned Finch Larks, and as the river itself came into view we could see flocks of Bar-headed Geese calmly feeding in the shallows. Boarding a small boat we chugged down the river, flushing remarkably good numbers of huge dragon-like Gharial, that slid into the water on our approach. We soon found a small island where a flock of 41 Indian Skimmer were roosting, and they allowed very close approach, unconcerned by the boat full of people. Drinking in the sight of these rare and fabulous birds, a Black-bellied Tern chose to land just in front of us and begin preening. Wow! We also found Bonelli's Eagle and a squad of 13 Red-naped Ibis, Lesser Whistling Ducks and Woolly-necked Stork, and a confiding Brown Crake walked along the bank in the open. Reluctantly leaving this area, we headed back to the lodge for another outstanding lunch (this has to be the best food in Northern India) before rejoining the madness of the roads as we journeyed to Bharatpur and our hotel for three nights.

Black-bellied Tern Indian Skimmer

Bharatpur of course is home to the world famous Keoladeo park, and entering it in the morning mists we started our birding with Spotted Owlet, Brown-eared Barbet and Ashy Drongos, Red-breasted Flycatchers, Blyth's Reed Warblers, Black Redstarts and many Bluethroats. This year they were having a good breeding season for the waterbirds, memories of recent droughts and water shortages hopefully now just a memory. Our guide told us there were no roosting Nightjars currently staked out due to photographer disturbance, so we turned our attentions to the wetlands where we found Northern Pintail, Comb Ducks, many Eurasian Spoonbills, Black-necked Stork, a bounty of nesting Painted Storks with large chicks, Indian Shags, skulking Black Bitterns, Striated Heron and many juvenile Western Marsh Harriers. We were shown roosting Indian Scops Owls and a Dusky Horned Owl sat on its large nest, blinking his pink eyelids at us, plus we had great views of a Jungle Cat hunting along one of the bunds in broad daylight. We lunched by the temple and saw Greater Spotted Eagle soaring overhead, plus Booted and Bonelli's Eagles passed by. We made a long circuit around the far points of the park and saw a Montagu's Harrier, Oriental Honey Buzzard, notable concentrations of Glossy Ibis and Grey-headed Swamphens, Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, a Xinjiang Shrike, several Golden Jackals, and numerous hefty Nilgai. As the afternoon lengthened the birding became quieter, and as the Black-crowned Night Herons flew around quacking and the Dusky Eagle Owl growled in the distance, we climbed back into our rickshaws and returned to our palatial hotel.

No two days alike here, and on our second day we began with Indian Reed Warblers in a palm tree, and two Moustached Warblers that sang from the thick bushes along the bunds. There were Wire-tailed Swallows


and Little Swifts in the air, plus many more Eagles - Greater Spotted were almost numerous, plus we found an Indian Spotted Eagle soaring over drier areas, and a juvenile Pallas's Fish Eagle. On the water were a trio of Dalmatian Pelican, a Cotton Pygmy Goose, Red-crested Pochard and legions of Northern Pintail, plus we added a Eurasian Wryneck that lurked along a bund.

We were to separate into two groups the next morning, three of us continuing south-westwards on the extension to Ranthambore, while the remainder returned to Delhi airport with our bus. We made our last joint effort in the Bharatpur area with a visit to a remarkably filthy canal, a snapshot of how India’s people and birds co-exist! Here we found a flock of 13 Greater Painted Snipe stood amidst the grey puddles, and also on this 'overflow canal' we found good numbers of Sykes’s and Citrine Wagtails, Temminck's Stints, Common Snipe and Marsh Sandpipers. We then split up, and said goodbye to those heading back to Delhi, although before travelling they made a return visit into the park, and gripped us off with a Large-tailed Nightjar, Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes!

Greater Painted Snipe Oriental Darter

Heading across ever drier country towards Ranthambore, short stops en-route produced Little Green Bee-eater, Desert, Isabelline and Variable Wheatears, many Southern Grey and Bay-backed Shrikes, smart Yellow-wattled Lapwings and a handful of Whiskered Terns. After arriving at our lodgings on the outskirts of Ranthambore Tiger Reserve we went straight out on a jeep safari inside the park on an unsuccessful Tiger hunt. We did however see Red-headed and Indian Vultures, and Spotted Owlets were most visible in the gardens of our hotel.

The next morning we set off once again into the park by jeep. On the way in we scored on a pair of Painted Spurfowl feeding on the roadside which was lucky, following which we began to get caught up in a frenzy of jeeps, chasing around whenever alarm calls of deer were heard. As we had already seen Tiger early on in the trip, we quickly tired of this dust bowl of a chase, and insisted we go elsewhere and look for birds. We headed down to the lake area, which was very photogenic, and then suddenly some Langur alarm nearby alerted us to the close proximity of a Tiger. We spotted its tail waving vertically in some tall grass, and so drove a little closer, and suddenly the cat was beside us! It was studiously ignoring us, sniffing the ground and the trees, and walked around the rear of the open jeep, to within three metres of a slightly scared tour leader! Awesome! We then rejoined the track, and gleefully informed other jeeps there was a Tiger nearby, leaving them to it as we went and looked at a roosting Dusky Eagle Owl instead. There was little else to be done following this (also the jeeps have strict time limits for their game drives) so we headed back to explore our hotel area during the midday break. This afternoon we headed off to the Banas River, an interesting area of scrub, shallows and sandy badlands. En-route we found good birds such as Indian Bushlark, Southern Grey Shrikes, Ashy-crowned Finch Larks, and by the river found Great Thick-knee, Water Pipit, and many Wagtails and shorebirds. We crossed the shallow river in our jeep, and on the far side we found Black-breasted Weaver, many Common Babblers, a spectacular group of Chestnut-belied Sandgrouse, and many


Golden Jackal. No Indian Wolf apparent, probably not helped by how this area has now become busy with many people, but on the way back a large Owl crossed the road and perched – Indian Eagle Owl! It sat on the hillside for a while, offering us a great look at this mighty beast.

With the main reason for entering the park all done and dusted, we were able to explore more widely, and so drove out to Suriwal Lake to the north of town. As the sun came up we scanned the shorelines that teemed with Dunlins and Little Stints, in the shallows waded Black-tailed Godwits and Eurasian Spoonbills, and in the fields were Southern Grey and Xinjiang Shrikes, Oriental Skylarks and Tawny Pipits. On the dam we found a smart Grey-necked Bunting that showed really well, Indian Thick-knees dozed under bushes, and Great Black-headed Gulls and River Terns patrolled the lake. We found plenty of Ashy-crowned Finch Larks, big flocks of Greater Short-toed Larks, Eurasian Wryneck, Pied Avocet, Desert and Isabelline Wheatears, which all added up to a fine mornings' birding. We headed back to our hotel in the ‘heat’ of the day, and then explored some dry habitat nearby. We soon ran into several exquisite Painted Sandgrouse which offered us some close and lengthy views, plus a few Tawny and Paddyfield Pipits, and although a late afternoon Bush-Quails hunt drew a blank we did find some lovely Indian Gazelles.

Tiger at Ranthambore Tiger at Ranthambore

The Banas River begged a return visit, so off we went early the next morning. Along the waterway we found Spotted Redshank joining the familiar waders in the shallows, plus Great Thick-knees and a Black-bellied Tern. Along the rushy edges were Indian Reed Warblers and many Citrine Wagtails, and approaching where flocks of birds occasionally took to the air we found a large group of Black Ibis, Comb Ducks, Eurasian Teal and Garganey, Black-tailed Godwits and Grey-headed Swamphens. Along the bank we found Brown Crake, Alexandrine Parakeets and Spotted Owlets occupied holes in the tall sand cliffs, some Paddyfield Warblers emerged from the taller vegetation, and everything went berserk when a Bonelli’s Eagle took a ride through the middle of them all. On our return leg we were successful in locating a fine pair of rather tame Rufous-tailed Larks, also we found a Jungle Prinia singing at the roadside. A rustle in the weedy ditch revealed itself to be a Small Buttonquail that posed briefly before taking flight, while almost simultaneously a nearby trio of Rock Bush-Quail flew in, then defied our attempts to locate them until they exploded into flight from almost underfoot. That afternoon we returned to the Tiger reserve for another ‘jeep safari’, and had superb views of Painted Spurfowl foraging on the roadside, saw Indian Vultures nesting on mammoth crags, and found a covey of Jungle Bush-Quails that appeared on the track, to complete a gamebird rich day. As we drove back, another Indian Eagle Owl appeared, sat atop a bare tree as it commenced its foraging for the night.

A final foray on our last morning into this beautiful park was not un-rewarded, as we found a perched Indian Spotted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, a flock of 27 Black Storks, some Tree Pipits and two flocks of White-capped Buntings. Back at the hotel there was time for a Tickell's Blue Flycatcher in the garden, before we headed for the railway station to catch the Golden Temple Mail to Delhi. Apart from the chaos of getting


aboard with large items of luggage, it was a relaxing way to unwind a little before our homeward journeys, and to reflect on a great trip to a truly wonderful country for wildlife.


River Lapwing

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).

Species which only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO)

Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL)

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Not uncommon at Bharatpur. Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus A flock of 13 seen on the extension near the Banas River. Dalmatian Pelican ◊ Pelecanus crispus A close look at a trio of birds at Bharatpur revealed them to be this species. Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Frequently encountered. Indian Shag ◊ Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Not seen away from Bharatpur where they were in reasonable numbers. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Frequently seen, numbering in hundreds at Dhikala. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Good numbers at Bharatpur, also seen at Ranthambore. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Regularly encountered. Great Egret Egretta alba Widespread.


Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Small numbers encountered at Bharatpur. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Seen regularly throughout the tour. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Quite a few at Bharatpur, and also seen in the Ranthambore area. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Frequently encountered in farmland areas. Indian Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii Common except in the mountains. Striated Heron (Little H) Butorides striata A couple at Bharatpur, also at Ranthambore Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax In good number at Bharatpur, emerging noisily at dusk. Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis Four sightings in two days at Bharatpur. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Hundreds breeding at Bharatpur this year, also found on the Ganges. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Seen on the Ganges on our first day, also in the Ranthambore area. Black Stork Ciconia nigra 25+ visible by the lake at Dhikala, also a flock of 27 at Ranthambore. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Good numbers at Corbett, Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Black-necked Stork ◊ Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus A few singles seen at Corbett and Bharatpur. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Impressive numbers seen at Bharatpur. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus First seen at Chambal, more at Bharatpur and beyond. Indian Black Ibis ◊ (Red-naped I) Pseudibis papillosa Great looks at flocks on the Chambal and Banas rivers. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia A few at the Taj Mahal, many more at Bharatpur, a few at Ranthambore. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus A flock of seven at Suriwal Lake on the extension. Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica Noisy flocks at Chambal and at Bharatpur. Greylag Goose Anser anser Three pink-billed birds at Bharatpur. Bar-headed Goose ◊ Anser indicus A very pleasing 200+ at Chambal, also at Bharatpur and Suriwal Lake.

Bar-headed Geese Glossy Ibis Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Frequently encountered, at the Ganges, Corbett, Ramnagar, Agra, Bharatpur. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Good numbers at Bharatpur, a few more at Ranthambore. Cotton Teal (C Pygmy-Goose) Nettapus coromandelianus Single birds seen at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Gadwall Anas strepera Noted at Corbett, Agra, and at Bharatpur in good numbers. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Small flocks seen at Bharatpur and near Ranthambore. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos A score at Corbett, also seen at Bharatpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha In good number at Bharatpur, also seen more widely. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Many at Bharatpur, smaller numbers found elsewhere. Northern Pintail Anas acuta Several hundred seen at Bharatpur. Garganey Anas querquedula A few furtive birds at Bharatpur, also seen on the Banas river on the extension. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca Good numbers at Corbett and Bharatpur. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina A drake at Corbett, and small flocks seen at Bharatpur. Common Pochard Aythya ferina A couple at Corbett, better numbers at Bharatpur. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca A flock of six seen in flight at Bharatpur. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula A couple at Corbett, more at Bharatpur. Common Merganser (Goosander) Mergus merganser A pair seen flying up the river at Corbett.


Oriental Honey-Buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus Two seen soaring at Bharatpur, some more at Ranthambore. Black-winged Kite (Black-shouldered K) Elanus caeruleus Reasonably common on the plains. Black Kite Milvus migrans Many thousands seen at Noida rubbish mountain, otherwise sightings were scattered. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus A couple of good examples at the Taj Mahal. Pallas’s Fish-Eagle ◊ Haliaeetus leucoryphus Nice encounters with these at Corbett, also a juv seen at Bharatpur. Lesser Fish-Eagle ◊ Ichthyophaga humilis A single perched over the river at Corbett. Bearded Vulture ◊ (Lammergeier) Gypaetus barbatus An immature near Vinayek entertained us. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Not uncommon around Agra and Chambal, also at Bharatpur. White-rumped Vulture ◊ Gyps bengalensis Only seen at Ramnagar close to their nesting trees, with five seen there. Indian Vulture ◊ Gyps indicus Nine birds perched high on their nesting cliff at Ranthambore. Himalayan Vulture ◊ (H Griffon) Gyps himalayensis In good numbers around Naini Tal, also seen at Corbett. Cinereous Vulture (Eurasian Black V) Aegypius monachus A nice view of two perched at Corbett. Red-headed Vulture ◊ Aegypius calvus Four seen at Corbett, two at Bharatpur, more singles at Ranthambore. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus A seen at Chambal, another at Ranthambore. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela A single bird seen at Bharatpur. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Good numbers at Bharatpur, almost all juveniles.

Indian Spotted Eagle Pallas’s Fish Eagle & Gharial Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Nice views of a pair plus two more females at Corbett. Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus An immature was hunting at Bharatpur. Shikra Accipiter badius Odd birds encountered, good looks at Bharatpur. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus The most frequently encountered Accipiter. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo One watched at close range at Ranthambore. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus A single bird at Chambal. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis A single bird at Naini Tal was unusual. Indian Spotted Eagle ◊ Aquila hastata A couple at Bharatpur, a juv at Ranthambore perched. See note. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga A good number appeared on our second day at Bharatpur. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis A couple at Corbett and then seen regularly in the mountains, almost all juvenile. Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus Seen at Ramnagar, Chambal, Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus A couple at Bharatpur and another at Ranthambore. Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus limnaeetus Some good looks at a couple of examples at Corbett. Mountain Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis Also at Corbett, with the floppy crest. Osprey Pandion haliaetus A good number at Corbett, a single at Bharatpur. Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens A single along the main road at Corbett, a pair showed well at Dhikala. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Regularly encountered. Red-headed Falcon ◊ (R-necked F) Falco chicquera (NL) One seen at the Banas river on the extension. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo A view of one mobbing Vultures at Dhikala. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Good views of two at Dhikala, two at Naini Tal, also at the Banas river. See note. Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus A good flight view at the Ganges crossing, another near Sat Tal. Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus A few seen along the way, and at Bharatpur they were common.


Common Quail Coturnix coturnix One lingered on the track at Dhikala long enough for a view. Jungle Bush-Quail ◊ Perdicula asiatica A covey of six surprised on a track at Ranthambore. Rock Bush-Quail ◊ Perdicula argoondah A trio in dry country near Ranthambore. Painted Spurfowl ◊ Galloperdix lunulata Two pairs seen at Ranthambore, the second allowed long close looks. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus Only seen at Corbett where they were numerous. Kaleej Pheasant (Kalij P) Lophura leucomelanos Found at Corbett, and in good numbers around Naini Tal. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Common on the plains, typically around cultivation. Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvaticus A bird was seen at the roadside near Ranthambore. Sarus Crane ◊ Grus antigone Two at the Ganges, a family trio at Bharatpur, several seen from trains in that area. Common Crane Grus grus We saw a single with Painted Storks at the Ganges. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Common at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Brown Crake ◊ Porzana akool Great views of one in the open at Chambal, and another on the extension.

Brown Crake Painted Spurfowl Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus Common at Bharatpur, also seen at the Banas river. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Numerous at Bharatpur, also found at Ranthambore. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Hundreds at Bharatpur. Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus A flock of 20 at Bharatpur. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus Seen at Bharatpur, and also at Chambal and the Banas rivers. Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis 13 birds huddled in the filth of the Bharatpur canal! Nice views! Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Scattered sightings in suitable habitat. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Like the above, and often on the bigger rivers. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus A single at Bharatpur. Yellow-wattled Lapwing ◊ Vanellus malabaricus Seen en-route from Bharatpur and at Suriwal Lake. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Frequently seen around Corbett, and often on the bigger rivers. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Common in open country! Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Some in the canal at Bharatpur. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa A flock of 80 at Bharatpur, also seen at the Banas river. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus A couple of singles in the Ranthambore area. Common Redshank Tringa totanus Seen on the Ganges, Yamuna, and in the Ranthambore area. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Regularly encountered, most numerously at Dhikala. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis A few in the canal at Bharatpur. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Frequently encountered on muddy pools. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Fairly numerous at Bharatpur, some also around Ranthambore. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Regularly encountered in small numbers. Little Stint Calidris minuta Two at Bharatpur, a fair number at Suriwal Lake. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii Seen on the Ganges, Yamuna and Chambal rivers, also at Bharatpur canal. Dunlin Calidris alpina Some at Suriwal Lake. Ruff Philomachus pugnax Some on the Ramganga river, also at Bharatpur canal and at Suriwal Lake.


Ibisbill ◊ Ibidorhyncha struthersii A pair seen remarkably well on the Kosi river at Corbett. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Often seen on mucky pools throughout the plains. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta A single at Suriwal Lake on the extension. Indian Stone-Curlew ◊ Burhinus indicus Heard at the Bagh, seen at Suriwal Lake and Ranthambore. See note. Great Thick-knee ◊ Esacus recurvirostris Seven at Dhikala, two at Chambal, more seen around Ranthambore. Steppe Gull ◊ Larus [cachinnans] barabensis One en-route from Bharatpur, another at Suriwal. Great Black-headed Gull (Pallas’s G) Larus ichthyaetus Four were seen around Chambal, another four at Suriwal. Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus Three at Bharatpur were the only ones. Common Black-headed Gull (Black-headed G) Larus ridibundus Several seen at the Ganges crossing. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica A couple of roosting birds at Suriwal Lake on the extension. River Tern ◊ Sterna aurantia Seen on all the major rivers . Black-bellied Tern ◊ Sterna acuticauda Stunning looks at one at Chambal, also seen on the Banas river. See note. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Several seen around the Ranthambore area. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus At least one at Suriwal Lake on the extension. Indian Skimmer ◊ Rynchops albicollis 41 roosting on a sandy island on the Chambal river. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Scores of these in dry country on the extension. Painted Sandgrouse ◊ Pterocles indicus Some exquisite views of nine birds seen at Ranthambore.

Painted Sandgrouse male Brown Hawk Owl Rock Pigeon (R Dove) Columba livia Common - some even might have been real ones! See note. Common Woodpigeon Columba palumbus Actually rare on this tour, we saw a single at Naini Tal. Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis Four at Naini Tal, one at Bharatpur and a flock of ten at Ranthambore. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis These appeared from Agra onwards, with their pleasing little song. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis A few seen around Corbett, also at Ranthambore. Red Collared-Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica A few at Bharatpur, also around Ranthambore. Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common around cultivation and in dry open country. Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon ◊ Treron phoenicopterus First near Delhi, again at Chambal, and Bharatpur. See note. Alexandrine Parakeet ◊ Psittacula eupatria Seen at Corbett, then not again till Ranthambore. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri Seen commonly except in the mountains. Himalayan Parakeet ◊ (Slaty-headed P) Psittacula himalayana Good looks at many around Naini Tal. Plum-headed Parakeet ◊ Psittacula cyanocephala Good numbers at Corbett, many at Ranthambore. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Often seen, not uncommon at Bharatpur. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis (NL) One at Corbett. Sirkeer Malkoha ◊ Taccocua leschenaultii Two seen at Bharatpur, another at Ranthambore. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus Single males seen at Chambal and at Bharatpur. Indian Scops-Owl ◊ Otus bakkamoena A nice view of a roosting pair at Bharatpur, another at Ranthambore. Indian Eagle-Owl ◊ (Rock E-O) Bubo bengalensis Two seen at Ranthambore, both emerging at dusk to go hunting. Dusky Eagle-Owl ◊ Bubo coromandus One on a nest at Bharatpur, two more seen in daytime, one at Ranthambore Brown Fish-Owl Ketupa zeylonensis A fine pair seen at roost at Corbett.


Tawny Fish-Owl ◊ Ketupa flavipes Three seen at roost around Kumaria, another single in Corbett. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H) One heard at Bajun. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Singles seen by day at Corbett and Naini Tal. Jungle Owlet ◊ Glaucidium radiatum A pair at Dhikala, perching on wires. Spotted Owlet Athene brama Seen at Chambal, at Bharatpur, and in good number at our Ranthambore hotel. Brown Hawk-Owl (B Boobook) Ninox scutulata Good views of a roosting bird at Chambal Safari Lodge. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus (NL) One founding roosting at Bharatpur. Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris Two at Corbett were the only ones. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba (LO) One at Naini Tal. Little Swift Apus affinis Scattered sightings, and in good number at Bharatpur. Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Not uncommon at Corbett. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Visible at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis A comically distant single at Corbett. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Common in open country. Himalayan Pied Kingfisher (Crested K) Ceryle lugubris Several nice sightings in the Corbett area. Lesser Pied Kingfisher (Pied K) Ceryle rudis Seen regularly around rivers and lakes. Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Seen commonly in dry country around Ranthambore. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Only seen south of the Ganges, then regularly in dry open country. Common Hoopoe Upupa epops A few at Corbett, then seen regularly in dry open country. Indian Grey Hornbill ◊ Ocyceros birostris A handful seen around Chambal and Bharatpur. Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris (H) Heard at Corbett. Great Barbet Megalaima virens Just three seen around Sat Tal Brown-headed Barbet ◊ Megalaima zeylanica One at Chambal Safari Lodge, more at Bharatpur.

Brown-headed Barbet Sirkeer Malkoha Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata A few seen in the Corbett area. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica A threesome at Corbett and more around Sat Tal. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Odd ones seen along our route. Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla One at Bharatpur, a couple more around Ranthambore. Indian Pygmy Woodpecker ◊ (Brown-capped P W) Dendrocopos nanus (H) heard at Ranthambore. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus Seen at Corbett and Naini Tal. Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker ◊ Dendrocopos auriceps Several seen well around Naini Tal. Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker ◊ Dendrocopos macei Not uncommon around Corbett. See note. Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker (Y-crowned W) ◊ Dendrocopos mahrattensis A male at Bharatpur canal. Himalayan Pied Woodpecker ◊ (Himalayan W) Dendrocopos himalayensis Nice looks at a male at Naini Tal. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Hypopicus hyperythrus Great views of two noisy males at Naini Tal. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus Singles seen at Corbett and Sat Tal. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha Seen at Corbett, Sat Tal and Bajun. Streak-throated Woodpecker ◊ Picus xanthopygaeus Several seen well at Corbett.


Grey-faced Woodpecker (G-headed W) Picus canus Odd ones seen around Corbett and at Sat Tal. Himalayan Flameback ◊ Dinopium shorii A fair view of a female at Corbett. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense Not uncommon at Bharatpur, also at Chambal and Ranthambore. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus Two seen in roadside forest near Kaladhungi. White-naped Flameback ◊ (W-n Woodpecker) Chrysocolaptes festivus In the garden of our Ranthambore hotel! Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus Two watched feeding at Corbett. Indian Bushlark ◊ Mirafra erythroptera Two seen near Ranthambore. Ashy-crowned Finch-Lark ◊ (A-c Sparrow-L) Eremopterix grisea Some at Chambal, many around Ranthambore Rufous-tailed Lark ◊ Ammomanes phoenicura Great views of a pair at Ranthambore after much searching. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla A single at Bharatpur, a few hundred at Suriwal Lake Sand Lark ◊ Calandrella raytal A distant ghostly bird at the Ganges. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Some at Chambal, a few more in the Ranthambore area. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula A couple at Corbett, also at Suriwal Lake

Oriental Skylark Bluethroat Grey-throated Sand-Martin Riparia chinensis Rather common, around all the rivers and wetlands. Eurasian Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Quite a few at Naini Tal, more at Ranthambore. Dusky Crag-Martin ◊ Ptyonoprogne concolor Some small flocks at Ranthambore. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Regularly encountered, big numbers at Dhikala. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Seen at Bharatpur, a few more at Ranthambore. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Not uncommon in the Corbett area, also seen at Chambal. Streak-throated Swallow ◊ (Indian Cliff S) Hirundo fluvicola (NL) One at the Ganges. Nepal House-Martin Delichon nipalense Flocks seen going to roost at Naini Tal. White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba Occasionally seen, most numerous at Chambal Safari Lodge. Masked Wagtail ◊ Motacilla [alba] personata Odd singles seen round our route. Himalayan Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alboides A single at the Ganges crossing. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis Seen at the Ganges, Corbett, Chambal and the Bharatpur canal. White-browed Wagtail ◊ Motacilla madaraspatensis The most frequently seen Wagtail on the rivers and wetlands. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 45+ at Chambal Safari Lodge was notable, also at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Sykes’s Wagtail Motacilla [flava] beema Numerous on the Bharatpur canal and in the Ranthambore area. Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] feldegg A single at the Banas river. Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] thunbergi A single at the Banas river. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Scattered sightings along our route. Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi Three at Dhikala. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus A couple at Bharatpur, more in dry country around Ranthambore. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Several at Chambal, also not uncommon around Ranthambore. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis A single at Bharatpur. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis A flock of 20 or more at Chambal Safari Lodge was notable. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Some en-route to Naini Tal, others at Kumaria and at Bharatpur. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus A single at Corbett.


Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta A couple seen on the Banas river on the extension. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei Good views of a couple at Corbett. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus A few at Bharatpur and at a couple at Ranthambore. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Several seen at Kumaria and also at Corbett. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus A handful seen around Kumaria and Corbett. Pied Flycatcher-Shrike (Bar-winged F-S) Hemipus picatus A few seen around Kumaria and at Corbett Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus A couple at Chambal and a few at Bharatpur. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola A few seen in the dry woodland at Ranthambore. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Not uncommon in the Corbett area and Naini Tal. Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxantha Seen in mixed flocks in the Corbett area and around Naini Tal. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus A few seen around the Corbett area. White-eared Bulbul ◊ Pycnonotus leucotis Several seen in dry country at Chambal and at Bharatpur. Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys Very common around Naini Tal, also in the Corbett area. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Seen daily. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala A few sightings in the Corbett area and at Sat Tal. Himalayan Black Bulbul ◊ Hypsipetes leucocephalus Numerous around Sat Tal, a few elsewhere around Naini Tal. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Seen at Corbett but not again till Ranthambore. Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii A single male in the garden of our hotel at Kumaria.

Xinjiang Shrike Southern Grey Shrike Xinjiang Shrike ◊ (Chinese S) Lanius isabellinus One at Bharatpur, another two at Suriwal Lake. See note. Bay-backed Shrike ◊ Lanius vittatus A few at Bharatpur, more seen in dry country en-route to Ranthambore. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Most common in the Corbett grasslands and around Ranthambore. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus A couple in the Kumaria area. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis One by Chambal Safari Lodge, many around Ranthambore. See note. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi A single on the Kosi river at Kumaria. Altai Accentor ◊ Prunella himalayana A flock of 120 at Naini Tal was nice to see. Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina (NL) One at Bharatpur. Small-billed Scaly Thrush (Scaly T) Zoothera dauma A good long view of a remarkably camouflaged bird. Tickell’s Thrush ◊ Turdus unicolor (NL) One at Bharatpur. Blue Whistling-Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Common in the Corbett area, and numerous in the mountains. Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher (Rufous-gorgeted F) Ficedula strophiata Odd ones seen at Corbett and in the hills. Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva A couple at Chambal, common at Bharatpur Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla A few seen in the Corbett area, also at Sat Tal and at Chambal. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra A male seen at Kumaria. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni A couple seen at Corbett Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor A small number seen, many heard, around Corbett, and a single at Sat Tal. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus A single at Bajun, another at Chambal Safari Lodge. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae A pair seen at Kumaria, another at Bajun. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara Single males seen at Corbett and Sat Tal.


Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Singing at Ranthambore, seen in the hotel garden. Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Frequently encountered throughout the tour. Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush Monticola rufiventris Three seen in the Naini Tal area. Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius One at Chambal, more near Ranthambore. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope Superb views of a male alongside the next species near Naini Tal. Himalayan Rubythroat ◊ (White-tailed R) Luscinia pectoralis Great views of a male together with the above. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica A couple at Corbett, common at Bharatpur. Himalayan Red-flanked Bush-Robin (H R-f Bluetail) Tarsiger rufilatus A female at Sat Tal, a smart male at Bajun. Golden Bush-Robin ◊ Tarsiger chrysaeus A first-year male came in for a close look at Bajun. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis Odd ones along our way, commoner at Bharatpur. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus A female at Kumaria. Indian Black Robin ◊ (Indian R) Saxicoloides fulicatus First appearing at Chambal, commonest in dry country. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros A few at Chambal, more at Bharatpur. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis Several seen around Naini Tal. Blue-capped Redstart ◊ Phoenicurus coeruleocephala A total of five seen around Naini Tal. White-capped River-Chat Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Common around Corbett and in the mountains. Plumbeous Water-Redstart (P Redstart) Rhyacornis fuliginosa Like the above, on almost every mountain stream. Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus Great views of four individuals around Naini Tal. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura Often seen in open country, most numerous in the Dhikala grasslands. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Just a few at Chambal, Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreus Common around the forest edge at Corbett and in the mountains. Variable Wheatear ◊ (Eastern Pied W) Oenanthe picata A few males seen. See note.

Indian Black Robin Desert Wheatear Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Two at Chambal, and not uncommon around Ranthambore. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Some en-route from Bharatpur, also at Suriwal lake on the extension. Brown Rock-Chat ◊ Cercomela fusca A few seen around the houses in drier parts. White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis A large flock at Corbett, a few at Sat Tal. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus A trio seen at Corbett, others heard. Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata A flock being noisy at Bajun were enjoyable. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush ◊ Ianthocincla rufogularis Atypically great views of four at Sat Tal. Streaked Laughingthrush Trochalopteron lineatum Common in the mountains. Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Trochalopteron erythrocephalum A pair at Bajun. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps A bird drinking at a Kumaria stream. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys Repeated good views around Corbett and Naini Tal. Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Outstandingly close and prolonged views of one at Bajun. Nepal Wren-Babbler ◊ Pnoepyga immaculata A good show by two competing birds at Kumaria. See note. Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla One seen close from a jeep, singing from under the lantana at Dhikala. Black-chinned Babbler ◊ Stachyris pyrrhops Seen well at Kumaria and Sat Tal.


Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Seen at Chambal and Ranthambore in small family groups. Common Babbler ◊ Turdoides caudata Small flocks at the Ganges, Chambal, and commonly around Ranthambore. Large Grey Babbler ◊ Turdoides malcolmi Numerous and noisy from Chambal onwards. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata Common around Corbett and on the plains.

Jungle Babbler Siberian Stonechat Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea A small flock seen at Sat Tal. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera A flock near Kumaria, a single at Sat Tal. Rufous Sibia ◊ Heterophasia capistrata Several seen well around Naini Tal. White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca A single in a mixed flock at Sat Tal Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis A couple at Suriwal Lake. Bright-capped Cisticola (Bright-headed C) Cisticola exilis Several seen in the Dhikala grasslands. Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera A handful seen around Naini Tal. Rufous-fronted Prinia ◊ Prinia buchanani Rather common at Chambal, also found around Ranthambore. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii Common in the Corbett and foothills area. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis First seen at Chambal, more at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Jungle Prinia ◊ Prinia sylvatica Two pairs at Ranthambore. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Seen often at Bharatpur and Ranthambore, also at Chambal and the Ganges. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Several seen at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata A very close example at Sat Tal entertained us. Yellow-browed Tesia (Grey-bellied T) Tesia cyaniventer One seen along the track side at Corbett. Large Bush-Warbler ◊ (Chestnut-crowned B-W) Cettia major One seen fairly well at Dhikala Grey-sided Bush-Warbler Cettia brunnifrons One seen well at Bajun. Aberrant Bush-Warbler Cettia flavolivacea One at Corbett, one at Sat Tal. Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon A nice look at a bird at Bharatpur sometimes breaking into song. Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola At least four along the Banas river on the extension. Blyth’s Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Remarkably few seen at Bharatpur only. Indian Reed-Warbler ◊ Acrocephalus brunnescens Two seen at Bharatpur - in palm trees! Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus tristis Especially common at Bharatpur, and seen almost throughout. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus A single seen at Sat Tal. Sulphur-bellied Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus griseolus An initially perplexing bird seen well at Bharatpur. Orange-barred Leaf-Warbler (Buff-barred Warbler) Phylloscopus pulcher Seen around Naini Tal, such as at Bajun. Grey-faced Leaf-Warbler (Ashy-throated Warbler) Phylloscopus maculipennis Just two, at Bajun with the above. Lemon-rumped Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus Commonly encountered in the Corbett and Naini Tal area. Yellow-browed Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus One or more near Kaladhungi. Hume’s Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus humei Present throughout, especially numerous at Bharatpur. Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Seen at Chambal Safari Lodge, at Bharatpur common by voice. Blyth’s Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides (LO) One at Corbett. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos Ubiquitous around Corbett and Naini Tal. Whistler’s Warbler ◊ Seicercus whistleri A few seen around Kumaria and Bajun.


Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps A write-in, at the far western edge of its range at Corbett. Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Two flocks of these sprites in the high forest at Naini Tal. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Common at Bharatpur, also at Dhikala, Chambal and Ranthambore. Red-headed Tit (Black-throated T) Aegithalos concinnus A few around Corbett, common around Naini Tal. Spot-winged Tit ◊ Parus melanolophus Not uncommon in the high forest at Naini Tal. Grey Tit Parus cinereus Common in the Corbett area forests, a few in the hills and at Ranthambore. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Fairly common in the Himalayan forests. Black-lored Yellow Tit ◊ (Black-lored T) Parus xanthogenys Handsome birds seen around Kumaria and in the hills. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Three seen one day in the higher forests at Naini Tal. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris Often seen around Corbett, also as high as Sat Tal and Bajun. White-tailed Nuthatch ◊ Sitta himalayensis Many seen in the higher forests of Naini Tal. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Frequent in the Corbett area forests, also at Sat Tal.

Scarlet Finch Ashy-crowned Finch Lark Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria A single bird seen on the Kosi river near Corbett. Bar-tailed Treecreeper ◊ Certhia himalayana Nice looks at these around Naini Tal. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus Just a single male, at Bajun. Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Rather few, at Chambal, Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Scattered sightings along our route. Crested Bunting Melophus lathami Four seen at Corbett, also nice views at Chambal. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia A few at the roadside near Naini Tal. Grey-necked Bunting ◊ Emberiza buchanani Two nice males seen on the extension, at Suriwal and Banas river. White-capped Bunting ◊ Emberiza stewarti A brief but good view at Sat Tal, many at Ranthambore on the last day. Himalayan Greenfinch ◊ (Yellow-breasted G) Carduelis spinoides Several seen well around Naini Tal. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Small flocks seen at Sat Tal, Chambal and Corbett, also Suriwal Lake. Scarlet Finch ◊ Haematospiza sipahi A single immature male performed at Bajun. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava Several around Corbett, better looks at Bharatpur. Indian Silverbill ◊ Euodice malabarica Seen well at Chambal, more showing at Bharatpur. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata A flock at the Ganges, also at Sat Tal. Tricoloured Munia Lonchura malacca A flock at Bharatpur was a bit far north of its typical range perhaps. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Around human habitation, plus big flocks in dry country around Ranthambore. Cinnamon Sparrow (Russet S) Passer rutilans Several nice examples around Sat Tal and Mangoli. Yellow-throated Sparrow (Chestnut-shouldered Petronia) Petronia xanthocollis Many at Chambal. Black-breasted Weaver ◊ Ploceus benghalensis Nice looks at several in tall grass on the Banas river. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Seen at the Ganges, Corbett and Chambal, also many nests seen. Brahminy Starling ◊ Temenuchus pagodarum Common at Bharatpur, also seen at Chambal and Ranthambore. Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus A couple of small flocks around Suriwal Lake and the Banas river. Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris (NL) One en-route from Naini Tal to Delhi. Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra Fairly widespread and visible in open country.


Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Seen daily except in the mountains. Bank Myna ◊ Acridotheres ginginianus Common around the towns and villages on the plains. Jungle Myna ◊ Acridotheres fuscus Odd singles in the Corbett area. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus A couple of good sightings at Corbett. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii Three seen around Corbett, another vocal one in the higher forests at Naini Tal. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Always in open country, most numerous around Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus A single in the foothills, a few at Bharatpur favouring the eucalyptus. White-bellied Drongo ◊ Dicrurus caerulescens A few smart examples seen around Ranthambore. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus Some at Kumaria, then several encounters in the mountains. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer A single at Corbett sans rackets. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus (H) Heard singing at Corbett. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius A small flock on the road in the high forest. Black-headed Jay ◊ Garrulus lanceolatus Several small flocks entertained us around Naini Tal. Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha Not uncommon in the mountains. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Regularly seen, and feeding from the hand at Ranthambore! Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae Nice views of several in the mountains. House Crow Corvus splendens The most Corvid common on the plains. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Restricted to the higher altitudes around Naini Tal. Indian Jungle Crow ◊ Corvus culminatus Found commonly on the plains and foothills. MAMMALS Indian Hare Lepus nigricollis One at Chambal, another at Ranthambore. Northern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii Somewhat tame at Bharatpur! Eastern House Mouse Mus musculus Seen in the restaurant at Ranthambore. House Rat (Black R) Rattus rattus Only seen a couple of times. Asian Palm Civet (Common P C) Paradoxurus hermaphroditus Nice looks at two at the Chambal Safari Lodge. Jungle Cat Felis chaus A good look at one on the bunds at Bharatpur. Leopard Panthera pardus (H) An impressive sequence of bellowing grunts heard at Naini Tal. Tiger Panthera tigris Fantastic. Three sightings at Corbett. At Ranthambore we were spoiled further. Small Indian Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus A trio eating a dead turtle at the Ganges. Indian Grey Mongoose (Common M) Herpestes edwardsii A nice one at Chambal, some at Corbett and Bharatpur. Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii A couple seen at Ranthambore. Golden Jackal (Common J) Canis aureus Two at Corbett, more at Chambal, Bharatpur, many around Ranthambore.

Indian Grey Mongoose Small Indian Mongoose Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus A few in the garden of the Chambal Safari Lodge. Northern Plains Grey Langur Semnopithecus entellus Numerous at Ranthambore. Tarai Grey Langur (Terai G L) Semnopithecus hector In good numbers around Corbett and Naini Tal. Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta Dirty monkey!


Eurasian Wild Boar Sus scrofa Many at Corbett, a few at Bharatpur and many at Ranthambore. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak Multiple sightings at Corbett. Sambar Cervus unicolor Fairly common at Corbett, also at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Chital (Spotted Deer) Axis axis Common at Corbett, a few at Bharatpur and Ranthambore. Indian Gazelle (Chinkara) Gazella bennettii Three seen at Ranthambore Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus Common at Bharatpur, also around Ranthambore and Chambal. Asian Elephant (Indian E) Elephas maximus Nice encounters at Kumaria, some seen more distantly at Corbett. REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS Gharial Gavialis gangeticus Good numbers at Corbett and Chambal. An amazing creature indeed.

Gharial Ruby Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustris A few with the above beasties. Indian Flapshell Turtle (I Mud T, Flapshell) Lissemys punctata The huge Turtles at various locations. Kashmir Agama Laudakia tuberculata A few seen near Naini Tal. Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis Seen at Chmabal and Bharatpur. Red-crowned Roof Turtle Batagur kachuga A single was pointed out at Chambal. Indian Roofed Turtle (I Sawback) Pangshura (Kachuga) tectum Also pointed out at Chambal. Indian Tent Turtle Pangshura (Kachuga) tentoria Also pointed out at Chambal. Northern House Gecko (Yellow-green H G) Hemidactylus flaviviridis A handful seen in bathrooms. BUTTERFLIES Blue Pansy Precis orithya Peacock PansyPrecis atlities Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus Common Mormon Papilio polytes Lime Butterfly Papilio demoleus Yellow Pansy Precis hierta Striped Blue Crow Euploea mulciber Chocolate Pansy Junonia iphita Common Rose Pachliopta aristolochiae Indian Red AdmiralVanessa indica Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe White-banded Hedge Blue Lestranicus transpectus Indian Tortoiseshell Aglais cashmirensis Indian Cabbage White Peiris canidia Lemon Pansy Precis lemonias


Purple Sapphire Heliophorus epicles Red Helen Papilio helenus Yellow Orange Tip Ixias pyrene Striped TigerDanaus genutia Common Gull Cepora nerissa Small Salmon Arab Colotis amata


NOTES TO THE SYSTEMATIC LIST The most up to date referenced taxonomic list referred to in the Tour Report is that of the IOC World Bird Names. Gill, F and Donsker, D (Eds). 2012. IOC World Bird Names (v2.11). Available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata Split from Lesser Spotted Eagle A. pomarina in 2002, little is known about the status

of this distinctive species, except that it is definitely threatened. It's range is now confirmed as far east as Cambodia. Three pairs breed at Bharatpur. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Two at Dhikala and two seen as we picnicked near the Mangoli Valley refer to the race peregrinator a.k.a. Shaheen Falcon. Also seen at the Banas river. Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus This is a recent split from Eurasian Stone-Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus, being very distinct in its proportions and vocalisations. One was heard from 'The Bagh' at Bharatpur, then many were seen at Suriwal

Lake and Ranthambore on the extension. Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda Great views of one at the National Chambal Sanctuary, another seen on the Banas river. This lovely tern is in decline, is now almost extinct in SE Asia, and threatened on the subcontinent. Birdlife list this as Endangered. Rock Pigeon Columba livia Although this species is typically ignored, the good numbers of seemingly wild pure stock birds in India is actually impressive. The local race is intermedia, which lacks white on the lower back.

Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus Seen at the roadside near Delhi, also at Chambal Safari Lodge and Bharatpur. The distinctive race is chlorigaster, which is restricted to the Indian subcontinent. Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei Several seen around the Corbett area. As currently defined, this species is now a near subcontinent-endemic, extending only to western and northern Myanmar. Xinjiang Shrike (Chinese S) Lanius isabellinus This form is different from the one that used to be called L. isabellinus. For clarification of the situation, refer to the taxonomic notes in the checklist.

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis This beautiful shrike was pleasingly common at Suriwal Lake and around the Banas River. The race here is lahtora, which shows a very full dark mask that extends onto the forehead. Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata Only males of opistoleuca were seen, most unusually one at Bajun at an altitude of ca.1500m. Nepal Wren-babbler Pnoepyga immaculata Two showed well at the roadside at Kumeria (down to a few feet), others were heard more distantly. Until quite recently this species was thought to be endemic to Nepal, but is now known as far west as

Himachal Pradesh. Only discovered in 1991, they were found to winter in the Corbett area some ten years ago.

northern india rep 12 - birdquest

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