NikeGREEN

Project Research

Danielle Pooley

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Contents

1. Introduction

2. Nike 2.1 The Nike Brand2.2 Nike’s Target Audience2.3 Nike’s Competitors2.4 Nike’s Eco Conscious Soul

3. The Environment3.1 Eco Design & Sustainability3.2 Cradle to Cradle Design3.3 Eco Fashion3.4 Public Perception of Environmental Issues

4. Olympic Games4.1 London 2012 Olympics4.2 Olympic Brand4.3 Public Views of the Olympics4.4 Nike & the Olympics

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5. Retail Design5.1 Visual Merchandising5.2 Eco Visual Merchandising5.3 Guerrilla Spaces5.4 Shipping Containers

6. Conclusion

7. Endnotes

8. Bibliography

9. Image References

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1. Introduction

NikeGREEN is a one-off retail project by sportswear brand Nike in conjunction with the 2012 Olympics. It will consist of a mobile guerrilla store which moves around the UK retailing a new range of footwear from the Nike Considered line, which uses recyclable and sustainable materials.

The new range will cover a variety of sports featured at the Olympics and Paralympics, and will be available for the public to purchase from the temporary stores. The concept of NikeGREEN is based around the idea of considerate design.

“Brands are no longer turning a blind eye to external factors that might affect their designs, as those external factors such as the environment, the economy, and society is what is shaping products.”1

The guerrilla store will be disused shipping containers, which will be transformed into mini NIKEtown’s using local disused materials. The energy to power the stores will be harvested from the local environment, and an “ongoing marathon and rowing machine”.

Customers will be encouraged to bring their old trainers along to these stores where the Reuse-A-Shoe campaign will be promoted to enhance the concept of “considerate design”. By doing this, customers will not only be part of a sustainable future, but they will also receive a discount off the new Nike Considered line.

The main objectives for the NikeGREEN project:- Increase awareness of the Nike Considered line.- Bring an admired brand to counties across the UK.- Increase awareness of sustainability within the Nike brand, past and present work.- Create an interactive experience for customers to promote sustainability.- Encourage consumers to re-consider their buying habits.- Promote a more considered approach and sustainability focused future.

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Nike Rugby Advertisement (1)

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2. Nike

Nike Running Advertisement (2)

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2.1 The Nike Brand

Nike is the largest and most successful sports brand in the world, with a strong ethos, reputation and brand design.

Founded in 1964 by Bill Bowerman and Phil Knight, originally named Blue Ribbon sports 2, the name Nike, derived from the Greek Goddess of Victory, came to play in 1971. The ‘Swoosh’ logo, also created in 1971, was fashioned by a graphic design student for $35 3, and is “...the most recognizable brand icon...” 4

When asked 40/40 people recognised it (Appendix 5.1). “...The value of the swoosh now runs so deep that visitors to remote, rural, and impoverished regions of the Third World report finding peasants sewing crude Swoosh imitations on to shirts and caps, not for the world market but for local consumption.” 5

Ever since the starting line pistol fired over 50 years ago, the innovation of Nike products has been spectacular. Bowerman, a track coach at the University of Oregan, was constantly looking for ways to give his athletes that competitive edge. After experimenting with his wife‟s waffle iron, Bowerman created a waffle-type sole for the trainers, making them lighter than the standard trainer 6.

Since then, the “Nike Innovation Kitchen‟ has been cooking up

million dollar profiting footwear and apparel. “...The kitchen is off limits to most visitors and

even to most Nike employees. The sign on the door says, only half in jest: “Nobody gets in to see the cooks. Not nobody. Not no

how.” 7

Nike Logo Mock-Up (3)

Waffle Sole (4)

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2.2 Nike’s Target Audience

The Nike philosophy, “Just Do It‟, created by advertising agency Wieden & Kennedy, “...is cemented in consumers’ minds as a rallyingcry to get off the couch and play sports.” 8 From established sports stars like Michael Jordan and Maria Sharapova, to disabled sportsmen and 80 year old runners, Nike encourages the athlete in everyone.

“Nike provides a language of self empowerment – no matter who you are, no matter what your physical, ‘conomic or social limitations.” 9

Nike doesn‟t generalise their audience as men and women. “...The brand hails them as members of a select group, translating general demographic characteristics into meaningful sports categories. For example, they address women basketball players differently than women who run or who play tennis or golf.” 10 The brand doesn’t just try to appeal to the ‘traditional’ sports like football.

In 1997, Nike created a series of TV commercials that depicted sports men and women being prohibited playing their sports. “What if we treated all athletes the way we treat skateboarders?” Instead of categorising skateboarders as an ‘alternative lifestyle group’, it connoted that they are also Nike athletes 11.

One of Nike’s most loyal audiences is the inner city youth. P.L.A.Y, Participate

in the Lives of Youth, is an inner-city sports programme, which Nike sponsors, in

exchange for high swoosh visibility 12. So popular is the brand within the inner city neighbourhoods, that when children

from a Neighbourhood centre in the Bronx sent Phil Knight letters, Nike sat up and

listened.

The letters included their personal views about how much they had spent on Nike

apparel over the years, and they thought Nike owed them. The backlash was due to

the fact that Nike were selling $150 shoes, that were manufactured for $5, by

overseas workers earning $2 an hour.

Nike Commercial featuring a disabled Basketball player (5)

Nike Advertisement Targeted at Women (6)

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Not only were Nike exploiting workers, and making huge profits from under privileged ‘swooshaholics’, but they were also taking away jobs from their home country: jobs from their parents 13.

A protest went ahead in September 1997, where participants of community centres around New York took their old Nike shoes and dumped them outside the NY NikeTown 14.

Nike changed a few of their policies regarding manufacture, however the most significant outcome of the protest compared to others, was that Nike realised how important this target market was to the brand. One of the protestors, a thirteen year old boy, said: “Nike, we made you. We can break you.” 15

From 40 participants (Appendix 5.1), ages ranging from 10-70, 30 participants noted that they wore Nike. However 15 participants

noted that they wouldn’t buy the new range of NikeGREEN footwear, mainly because they aren’t into sports enough, or they only wear sportswear for exercise, in which case they already have suitable footwear. 25 participants said they

would consider buying the new range but only if they weren’t too expensive, the performance & quality was the same level as current Nike footwear, if they needed new footwear, and if the

range was stylish enough.

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2.3 Nike’s Competitor’s

Sportswear MarketFor decades, the sportswear market has been dominated by Nike, Adidas, Reebok and Puma. In the 1980’s, when Nike was in the spotlight for unethical manufacturing, they trailed Reebok by 30.1% to 18.2% 16. The notable gap between Nike and Adidas was closed by 5% between 2007 and 2009, with Nike holding a 33% market share, and Adidas a 22% share 17.Despite Nike’s orders in emerging markets increasing by 30% since the World Cup 18, Adidas still has the lead in America and the emerging markets of Asia and Latin America 19.Although Adidas was the official sponsor of the 2010 World Cup, Nike attracted attention in alternative ways, including opening a dual-use community centre in Johannesburg, which acts as a football training ground and an AIDS testing centre 20.

By 2007, Nike controlled 31% of the market, followed by Adidas at 16%, Puma at 7% and Reebok at 6%. 21

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In terms of which brand participants considered to be the most successful sports brand, 29 participants thought Nike due to celebrity endorsement, clever marketing campaigns and it being ‘on trend’, 10

participants thought Adidas (Appendix 5.1).

Sustainability & Eco Market

PatagoniaPatagonia is an American outdoor clothing and equipment company with 35 years of environmentally friendly knowledge. Yvon Chouinard established the business in order to “...build products with processes that cause the least harm to the environment.” 22

Their ‘Common Threads Garment Recycling Programme’ encourages customers to return their worn out clothing for recycling.

“It’s better to make clothes out of polyester if you can recycle them into more clothes, and keep doing it-like we do with aluminium

cans-instead of growing more organic cotton and selling cheap clothes that people just throw away.” Yvon Chouinard 23

Patagonia’s headquarters gains its energy from the sun and wind. Their lighting systems use motion sensors to conserve electricity, and their carpets are 100% recycled polyester 24. Similarly, in 1996, Nike created a headquarters, which was a complex of five buildings that integrated the indoors with the surrounding environment 25.

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BlackspotBlackspot, an anti-corporation footwear brand, was founded by media activists, Adbusters, for consumers who didn’t want to buy into corporate brands. Specifically targeting Nike as the ‘black spot’ of the industry, Blackspot created the ‘Unswoosher’ 26.

Made with 100% organic hemp, recycled tires and vegan friendly leather, Blackspot only sell to worldwide independent retailers, so that revenue is pumped back into local communities;

“Blackspot is about more than marketing a brand or deconstructing the meaning of cool – it‟s about changing the way the world does

business.” 27

Howies

“This outdoor clothing company based in Wales, manufactures with an ‘organic’ ethos. Not just because its clothes are made with

organic materials, but because the business aims to function as an organism, with a conscience, a local community and a wider body of loyal customers who will pay for quality made the right way.” 28

Howies give 1% of their turnover to environmental and social projects, called ‘Earth Tax’ 29, and run a series of annual talks called ‘Do Lectures’, which aim to inspire action and activism within society 30. Despite Howies being a small brand compared to Nike, it often rates higher than larger names on the ‘cool brands’ list, and has an annual turnover of £4m. 31

Trigema

Trigema is Germany’s largest t-shirt and sports clothing manufacturer 32, who developed a biodegradable t-shirt made of 100% American and Pakistan grown pesticide free cotton. The yarn is spun with natural paraffin, and the dyes are biodegradable 33, the t-shirt can literally be put onto the compost heap.

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2.4 Nike’s Eco Conscious Soul

Re-Use a Shoe Campaign

“Worn out. Play on.” 34

The Nike Reuse-A-Shoe programme, created in 1993, collects worn out sports shoes, which are ground down to create surfaces for sports arenas and playgrounds 35.The used shoes are collected through recycling programmes, events, and Nike stores. Through the campaign, Nike have recycled over 20 million pairs of sports shoes, creating more than 250 sport surfaces 36.The campaign’s weakness is lack of advertising: consumers don’t realise they can recycle this way. From Focus Group 1, none of the participants knew about the campaign, and claimed they would contribute if it was easily accessible (Appendix 5.2).

Nike Considered Design

The Nike Considered Design line, introduced in 2008, incorporated footwear and apparel in Basketball, Running, Football, Women’s training, Men’s training and Tennis 37. The range uses a variety of sustainable materials, finishes and processes, creating innovative products that incorporate maximum performance and minimal environmental impact.

“As we look at how we design and develop products and run our global business, it‟s not enough to be solving challenged of today. We are designing for the sustainable economy of tomorrow, and for

us that means using fewer resources, more sustainable materials and renewable energy to produce new products.” President and CEO Mark

Parker 38

For many years, Nike has had a goal of including a minimum of 5% Organic Cotton in all of their apparel containing cotton, by

2011.Considered Design’s aims are:

100% of Nike footwear to meet basic ‘Considered’ standards by 2011, apparel by

2015 and equipment by 2020 39.

Once again, this is not a widely known Nike concept. Three questionnaire participants knew about Nike Considered, 37 didn’t. From those asked about whether they would buy from the NikeGREEN

project, only two said they would solely because of its concept.

Nike Long Ball Shoe (8)

Nike Reuse-A-Shoe (7)

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Climate CountsCorporate Social Responsibility plays a vital role in the perception of a brand; however it is very difficult to examine a company’s contribution to combating global issues.

Climate Counts is a neutral organisation that ‘...score the world’slargest companies on their climate impact to spur corporateresponsibility and conscious consumption.’40

This year, Nike scored 83/100 on the Climate Count Scorecard, the highest in its sector:

“Change from previous year’s score: +82

Review: 18/22 points. Climate Counts has found that Nikeannually measures its companywide impact on global warming.Reduce: 44/56 points. Climate Counts has found that Nike hasestablished clear goals to reduce the company’s greenhouse gasemissions and has reduced its impact on global warming (i.e.,its greenhouse gas emissions or climate footprint). The companyhas also worked to foster the climate awareness and action ofemployees and others.Policy Stance: 10/10 points. Climate Counts has found that Nikehas taken a strong stance in supporting public policy thataddresses climate change.Report: 11/12 points. Climate Counts has found that Nike has made public information available on its companywide efforts toaddress global warming.” 41

2010 World Cup

Recently, Nike created sports uniforms for the 2010 Football World Cup, which were manufactured from recycled plastic bottles. By redirecting 13 million bottles from landfills in Asia, Nike managed to create one of ‘...the most environmentally friendly and technologically advanced kits in football history.’

The manufacturing process reduced energy consumption by up to 30% and each shirt was created from at least 8 bottles 42. This project wasn’t publicised enough, as none of the focus group knew about it (Appendix 5.2).

Nike World Cup Uniforms (9)

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3. The Environment

Wieden & Kennedy for the Nike78 Project (10)

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3.1 Eco Design & Sustainability

Brands have had to respond as consumers become more aware of what their products are manufactured from, how long they will last and how much waste they produce. Conversely, there doesn’t seem to be enough information available for consumers to understand the importance of environmentally friendly products.

Governments and councils encourage recycling. However, what most consumers and businesses don’t realise is that because most products aren’t designed with recycling in mind, the recycling process can be more damaging to the environment than landfill is. For example, “...paper requires extensive bleaching and other chemical processes to make it blank for re-use.” 43

Unfortunately, until manufacturers create products that are meant tobe recycled, consumers are limited to doing their bit for theenvironment. Robert Lilienfield and William Rathje note:

“The best way to reduce any environmental impact is not to recycle more, but to produce and dispose of less.” 44

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3.2 Cradle to Cradle Design

William McDonough, a reputable researcher in the field of sustainability, explores and questions past and present manufacturing processes in his publication ‘Cradle to Cradle’:

Currently, the majority of products are manufactured with a cradle to grave approach. Resources are extracted, shaped into products, sold, and eventually disposed of in a ‘grave’ someway. Consumers are forced into this cycle by products designed with ‘built-in obselence’, where the product only lasts for a certain amount of

time. 45

With less than 10% of extracted raw materials in the US actually making durable goods “...the cradle to grave approach is dominating modern manufacturing” 46. To reinforce the concept of his publication, the book is printed on synthetic paper, making it waterproof, durable and recyclable 47.

Cradle to Cradle refers to products that are designed to fit into either cycle:- Biological – returning products harmlessly to nature - Industrial – recycling non-biodegradable materials andproducts completely and continually 48.

During the Industrial Revolution, environmental factors were notmain concerns. The environment was perceived as being able toconstantly regenerate, regardless of what was being released into it.49

“Despite a more comprehensive understanding of nature, modern industries still operate according to paradigms that developed when

humans had a very different sense of the world” 50

While waste strategies appear to be environmentally friendly compared to landfill, the majority tend to be more damaging. Recycling uses up more resources, and reduces the quality of a material over time 51. “...Incineration is only effective because materials like paper and plastic is flammable, however these materials weren‟t designed to be burned safely” 52, thus releasing harmful toxins.

Despite Nike’s efforts to incorporate environmental design into the World Cup Uniforms, the recycled material wasn’t suitable for its function as the fibres in plastic bottles contain toxins which are hazardous to human skin 53. In Nike’s defence, the uniforms were only worn for a short period of time, and will have become collector’s items instead of everyday clothing.

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From Focus Group 1 (Appendix 5.2), Participant 5 noted that:

“They should take a leaf out of Uganda’s book, at the local market they sold flip-flops that were made out of old tyres.”

This sustainable innovation is not due to environmental concern, this is due to necessity. Unfortunately, current industrial design processes ignore this adaptive approach to design. Participant 3 commented:

“I think options need to be reduced. If there genuinely is a bigger problem as scientists are saying about the environment, then there

needs to be less choice for people.”

In regards to Nike’s efforts to working towards cradle to cradle design, the Nike Considered Index evaluates and measures the sustainability of a product 54. Nike has worked with Cradle to Cradle author, William McDonough 55, and The Natural Step, a non-profit organisation specialising in sustainable development research 56, to “...determine the chemical composition and environmental effects of the materials and manufacturing processes used to produce Nike’s shoes.” 57

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3.3 Eco Fashion

“Synthetic fibres are commonly seen as ‘bad’ and natural fibres as ‘good’. This preconception is influenced by a complex set of factors including raw material renewability, biodegradability and stereotyped associations made with chemicals, factories and

pollution” 58

There are a number of factors that need to be considered with ‘eco’ products:

Raw Materials- Have pesticides been used - How much natural resources are used to change its state - Is the material biodegradable or efficiently recyclable

Manufacturing- Are the dyes and chemicals environmentally friendly- Is the manufacturing energy harvested from renewable resources

Transportation- Are product parts manufactured in numerous countries - Are businesses using the most environmentally friendly forms of transport - What emissions are being produced through transport methods

Packaging - Is packaging designed with minimum transportation space- Are the materials and design as eco efficient as possible, e.g: Puma Box bag

Retail- Do stores utilise salvaged materials for visual merchandising - Is the energy for the store harvested from renewable energy - Is packaging disposed of correctly - Does the brand offer information about their environmental footprint

Disposal - Does the brand offer a facility for the products to be recycled, e.g: Reuse-a-Shoe

Puma Box Bag (11)

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“The success of reducing the fashion industry’s environmental burden across the entire lifecycle of products depends entirely on reversing the general trend of higher volumes and falling prices as

typified by retailers such as Primark and Matalan.” 59

Once again, there is a consumer-designer circle. Convincing consumers to buy differently will “...encourage brands and suppliers to inform consumers about the sustainability profile of their products.” 60

Each process of the lifecycle needs to be addressed individually as “[t]he textile and garment industry scores worse than any other on the UK Environment Agency‟s pollution Risk Assessment.“ 61 Brands cannot be expected to change their business over night, and unfortunately they will always do the bare minimum. Luckily “[l]egislation has had a formative influence on sustainability innovation in the fashion and textile sector...” 62

In regards to recycling and zero waste, there are a number of projects which small and large businesses have designed to push sustainability.Walmart, America’s largest supermarket, use wind and solar power as part of their store energy 63. Each of their products now has an eco rating calculated from its ‘greenness’. The company have also been creating more sustainable electronics, to reduce the amount dumped into landfills 64.

Loolo Textiles, a Canadian furnishings company, manufactures products that are designed to fully biodegrade at the end of their lives. Certified organic materials and toxic free dyes all “...educate consumers about the impact their buying choices make.” 65

“With approximately 2.35 million tonnes of clothing waste accumulating in the UK each year...” 66, charitable organisations like TRAID Remade and Junky Styling, are fast becoming popular. Both organisations rework and reconstruct second hand clothing into one off sellable pieces 67.

Back2Back Dress by Junky Styling (12)

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3.4 Public Perception of Environmental Issues

One of the main hurdles involved in introducing sustainability, is the consumer attitude.The main factor that dissuades Focus Group 1 (Appendix 5.2) from buying eco brands is the price. Some participants thought there wasn’t enough technology to ensure sportswear was still as efficient. Another major part is aesthetics:

“I don’t think the organic range is as nice as anything else is in there though. It’s all a bit plain.”

Due to the fact that Nike has built up a reputation for producing stylish products, the aesthetics of the NikeGREEN range is extremely important. The products need to appeal as much as their existing ranges, so as to attract their existing customers.

From Questionnaire 1, 25 participants couldn’t name any eco friendly or sustainable brands, while those who did know: Fair Trade/Co-Op, New Look and Kenco were the most

commonly known brands. (Appendix 5.1)

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In regards to whether they buy eco-friendly or sustainable brands, 29 participant’s don’t, and 11 do occasionally. Reasons for why people don’t:

- Issue doesn’t bother them - Too expensive - Consumer decisions driven by product performance & aesthetics - Isn’t a large enough range - Not enough advertising to make people think about choices.

(Appendix 5.1)

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4. Olympic Games

Olympic Rings (13)

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4.1 London 2012 Olympics

The Olympics, commencing July 27th in east London, is predicted to cost £9.3billion 68. The games will not only attract international visitors, increasing tourism revenue, but it will also attempt to regenerate one of London’s poorest areas.

As with any Olympic Games, there have been mixed reactions to the cost, when the world is recovering from a recession.

“Politicians in places playing host to a big sporting event above all the Olympics or the Football World Cup, see the huge sums

required as a worthwhile investment, not frivolous consumption.” 69

With the regeneration of east London playing a big role in the bid for the Olympics, employment, homes and businesses will thrive from the Games. ‘Stratford City’, a large shopping, office and hotel complex is being described as the ‘gateway to the games’. It is predicted 18,000 staff will work there. A ‘retailing academy’ is being established and John Lewis have promised to take on 250 long term unemployed locals. It is also “...hoped that the broadcasting and media centres in the Olympic Park can become a new base for the media...”, thus increasing work in nearby shops 70.

In terms of sustainability, a tri-generation plant that produces 33% lower CO2 emissions will supply electricity, heat and chilled water to the park. 80% of staff and visitors will reach the Olympic park by rail, as there is no private car access to any event, while low/no emissions vehicles will be used to transport the athletes. The construction of secure cycle storage will encourage spectators to cycle to the event 71.

The Olympic Park being constructed (14)

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4.2 Olympic Brand

The London Olympics is now a brand: it has a logo, an ethos, and a uniform. The uniform for the GB team is being designed by British designer Stella McCartney, who already works with Adidas. This reinforces Laura Thompson’s comments about the Olympics not being about sport anymore. However, McCartney has expressed her understanding of the importance of fashion not effecting performance:

“I have to make it look good on TV, I have to make it feel good for the athletes, I have to make it work – technically it has to do its

job.” 72

Whether or not the athletic clothing will be available on the high- street for public consumption is yet unknown, this is where Nike might be able to undermine Adidas.

In terms of the logo, it is available in a number of colours, and depicts the numbers 2012 with the word London and the Olympic rings included in the first two digits. The logo’s message is that London 2012 will be ‘Everyone’s Games.’

“When people see the new brand, we want them to be inspired to make a positive change in their life.” Tony Blair 73

London 2012 Olympic Logo (15)

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4.3 Public Views of the Olympics

Olympic Games invite public support and opposition, whether it is the health and safety of workers, or the price tag. Nonetheless, with 9.6 million tickets available, there is a projected sell out rate of 82% for the Olympics, and 63% for the Paralympics 74.

A quarter of British adults hope to attend, with enthusiasm at its greatest in the South East, and its least in Wales. Thomas Cook, an official sponsor of the Games, conducted a poll of 2,128 adults and found that a quarter of those polled believed that Britain had “...the best chance of bringing sporting success to the country than other sports.” 75

With the success of the Games being dictated by ticket sales, CE Paul Deighton described interest as ‘mind-blowing.’ By December 2010, more than 2 million had pre-registered for tickets, the majority being female 76. The disappointing turnout at Beijing in 2008 demonstrated the importance of ticket sales. Despite organisers announcing sell-outs, on some occasions 10 out of 18 venues didn’t even reach 80% capacity, while some sports only had an audience of 30%. It was suggested that the lack of spectators was due toterrorist threats, local disinterest and visa restrictions 77.

London 2012 still has yet to find out whether public support will decline. However, Sir Steve Redgrave, Olympic Gold Medallist, commented that national support has only dwindled marginally since the UK won the bid in 2005:

“I remember the percent being 82 of people on favour of bidding for the games nationally, and I think I’m right in saying that has only

dropped to 76%.” 78

The 2012 Games will be very different to the last time Great Britainhosted the event in 1948. Post-war, this event was postponed a number of times, and finally ended up in London. “...Despite home athletes managing only three gold medals, there were more than 80,000 spectators a day.” 79

Despite the country being war-stricken, the Olympics brought about an air of optimism, with athletes sleeping quarters being schools and colleges, and riding on double decker buses to get to the events 80. The focus of an Olympic Games was meant to be about bringing people together through the inspiration of sport, as the 1948 Games was. Telegraph reporter Laura Thompson notes:

“If only! Sport today means money, fame and a competitive ethos that scorns fair play.” 81

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From Questionnaire 2, out of 40 participants questioned, 4 said that they would be attending the Olympics, 21 wouldn’t, and 15 might (Appendix 5.3). The reasons for not attending are:- Not enough interest in sport- Tickets are hard to get hold of or are too expensive - Work commitments - Fear of terrorists - Distance too great

The latter reason was fairly dominant, suggesting people would not be prepared to travel too far. This will influence how many guerrilla stores there will be and which cities across the UK they will be in.

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4.4 Nike & the Olympics

Nike has played a major role in Olympic events since the brand was established, and continues to. At the 1980 Moscow Olympics, British runner Steve Ovett graced the highest podium beneath the Olympic flame wearing Nike trainers.

Following the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, an exclusive agreement between Nike and the Athletics Congress ensured that the USA team would wear Nike at every event for the subsequent century.

In 1999, Nike was approached by the organisers of the Sydney 2000 Olympics, to create more than 122,000 individual outfits. At the Games, the Australian team revealed Nike’s innovative apparel including the recyclable Marathon Singlet and the lightest track spike ever made 82.Nike’s success comes at a cost to others. War on Want are campaigning against the official Olympic suppliers, which includes Adidas, Nike and Pentland.

Playfair, the campaign through War on Want, is “...a UK coalition of trade unions and labour rights organisations fighting for the rights of workers making sportswear for the Olympics.” The organisation found that for the Beijing Olympics, “...workers making sports shoes were earning as little as £20 per month, when the footwear was selling up to £50 a pair.” 83

Playfair 2012 Logo (16)

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5. Retail Design

Ubiq Store (17)

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5.1 Visual Merchandising

“The first shopkeepers tried to lure consumers into their stores either by ostentatiously exhibiting their names or by displaying

products in their windows or on tables in the street, proving that they were open for business and proud of their produce.” 84

Today, window displays are more than just an exhibition of products; they are an art installation, sometimes beautiful, sometimes controversial, but nonetheless eye catching. As important as window displays are within retail, stores with limited displays, e.g. Abercrombie and Fitch, are just as intriguing as a detailed Harvey Nichols display. Brands now have to consider the in-store display just as much as the window:

Retailers have progressed to the creating of complex environments that can provoke an emotional response from their customers... A store must now become a retreat, an escape,

and also a destination. 85

When Nike created their stores, they were not merely buildings where staff sold products emblazoned with the iconic Swoosh. They were “...glitzy stores, with climbing walls and basketball courts for trying out goods, which [were] meant to build the brand rather than just move the products.” 86

London’s Niketown, re-opened in November 2010 after re-development, is now Nike’s largest store globally, encompassing 4 floors of Nike ethos. The new store design comprises of a number of services including:

- “A state of the art boot fitting machine, allowing players the chance to steam mould boots to their feet - A boot embroidery service- A video gait analysis and trained staff to help runners to work out exactly what type of shoe suits their running style” 87

Harvey Nichols A/W ‘09 Window Display (18)

London’s Niketown (19)

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Nike 1948 is a shop, event space and meeting place for local running club Run-Dem-Crew in London. The surface of the space is created from materials generated by the Reuse-A-Shoe Campaign 88. The space brings together artists and sports people to create a fusion of the two activities.

From Focus Group 2 (Appendix 5.4), a number of points were made about what makes retail experiential:- Smell; pleasant but not overpowering - Layout; spacious enough to manoeuvre comfortably - Knowledgeable sales assistants - Information about the composition of the product - Quirky window displays - Interactive features- Innovative and attractive packaging.

Nike Stadium Shoe Box (20)

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5.2 Eco Visual Merchandising

Over the past couple of years, visual merchandisers have created eye catching window displays and thought provoking interiors, all utilising recycled materials.

In 2009, stylish household product brand, Muji, created a window scheme made entirely from reused and recycled goods. Muji already manufacture their products from recycled materials, “...from the ring binders which are made from milk cartons to the wastepaper bins made from old telephone directories! Even the coat hangers are made out of recycled board!” 89 The display units, which were installed in all of their UK and European stores, are made from recycled card, which is stacked together to form shelves.

American fashion brand, Athropologie, used recycled plastic bottles to create their Spring 2010 window display. Customers were encouraged to drop off their used plastic water bottles, through a notification on the brands’ Facebook page. The bottles were then painted and cut up to fashion different shaped flowers, maintaining the brand’s fun personality 90.

Barney’s 2010 Christmas scheme was based around the concept of a foodie holiday.

Their window display exhibits ‘a mannequin dressed to thrill’: a gown assembled from

recycled Illy Espresso foil bags, with the new Illy Espresso machine perched on the

mannequins head. Creative Director, Simon Doonan, “...salvaged hundreds of coffee

bags, crimped, pleated and pierced them to create an eco-couture gown.” 91

Nike commissioned GRR, a retail display company, to create a footwear wall for JD Sports stores, to display the Nike Sportswear Range. GRR used reclaimed gym flooring: simple, yet effective and bold, the modern display incorporated the nostalgia of 1980’s school gyms; a popular era for Nike 92. The display demonstrated a subtle element with attention-grabbing aesthetics.

Anthropologie Spring 2010 Window Display (21)

Barney’s Christmas Window Display (22)

Nike JD Sports Display (23)

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5.3 Guerrilla Spaces

Guerrilla stores, pop up clubs and temporary restaurants are all part of the pop-up frenzy which has taken retail and the food industry by storm. The concept refers to a brand occupying a space temporarily, or having a mobile venue, both of which can last from a day to a year.

There are a number of reasons for the appeal of a temporary space:- “...Novelty and scarcity...” 93; consumers have the chance to buy limited edition products- Low cost; no long term lease commitment- Gives new businesses the opportunity to launch without having the high costs of a permanent space.- Brands can break into emerging markets. - Gives consumers a different experience to large, commercial brands. - “For a brand with a major reputation, but a desire to be perceived differently” 94

- Bringing the brand to the customer if stores are only in major cities.- Raising awareness of a new product or concept through interactivity, as opposed to mainstream print or television adverts.- “The ability to test run a label” 95

In 2004, Comme des Garcons opened a series of Guerrilla Stores globally, which were open for no longer than

a year 96. The temporary stores were situated in unfashionable

parts of cities such as Berlin and Singapore. “... The spaces occupied were fairly run- down, and in-store

props were custom made from low cost materials.” 97

“In its bid to create an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos, the Dover Street Market (store) blurs the boundary between retail and installation art. Nothing is mass-consumed, nothing is readily

available elsewhere, the focus is on the individuality of the purchasing experience.” 98

Illy Pop up Cafe (24)

Comme des Garcons Store (25)

33

In celebration of the World Basketball Festival, Nike created a pop up shop in Harlem; “...one of the biggest basketball hotspots of the world.” 99 Titled ‘The Ballroom’, the shop showcased products from Nike, the Jordan Brand and Converse. Not only displaying products from the three lines, but also exhibiting the basketball history from each label, iconic jersey’s and the most renowned basketball shoes of past and present lined the walls.

Orange, the telecom brand, commissioned design agency ‘section.d’, to create a one- off shop

dissimilar to a regular Orange shop.

“You can‟t have one size fits all. Tailoring the retail environment to that customer in a specific catchment area is really important.”

Matt Gayleard, Orange Retail. 100

The fixtures and fittings were specially sourced for their individuality, with map- reading arms

re-constructed to hold phones and a rebuilt storage unit 101. Despite section.d not being able to advance the uniqueness of the shop,

the store demonstrated the media coverage that minimal innovation can generate 102.

The Double Club, an art project which ran from November 2008 to July 2009, was a fusion of Congolese and Western culture, offering entertainment and cuisine. The London based club included a bar, restaurant and disco, each incorporating aspects from both cultures. For example, the restaurant offered two menus: authentic, family style Congolese dishes and simple European Bistro classics 103.

From Focus Group 2 (Appendix 5.4), participants noted that they find guerrilla stores intriguing, particularly mobile venues, and that they would be interested if they were walking past. However, they did comment on the fact that they usually only tend to be in the main cities.

‘The Ballroom’ Store (26)

Orange Shop designed by section.d (27)

The Double Club (28)

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5.4 Shipping Containers

Heineken’s project, ‘Greenspace’, searched out alternative locations,

which had the potential for attracting a younger target market to “...support emerging talent while also stimulating

urban development and providing new kinds of cultural meeting points.” 104

The use of shipping containers not only enabled them to move from country to

country, but also to create a ‘touring urban village’. The units function as

areas and stages for creative’s in film, design and music 105.

Heineken’s Valencia event, utilised an old warehouse which was refurbished to

safety standards, so that once Heineken had moved on, the area could be used for

cultural events 106.

In 2009, Puma created Puma City, a retail and event space that was made from 24 refurbished shipping containers. The top level comprised of a bar, dance floor and sunning deck, with lower levels exhibiting Puma merchandise.

The staggered containers create a parasol, so that the interior is kept cool. Parts of the bottom and sides are cut out, keeping the store well ventilated and reducing weight, making transportation more eco- friendly 107.

Heineken ‘Greenspace’ (29)

Puma City (30)

35

In 2010, Smirnoff, the alcoholic beverage brand,

created the Nightlife Exchange Project. The advertising campaign

explores the best nightlife experiences across 14 countries.

Consumers are asked to contribute their ideas of the best night out

in their country on the Smirnoff Facebook page.

The project is based around a giant freight container,

which is seen as ‘exporting’ the night life from one country to

another, e.g.: Australia will receive the best of a British night out. 108

Smirnoff Night Life Project hosted by Zane Lowe (31)

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6. Conclusion

“If you have a body you are an athelete”,Bill Bowerman, co-founder of Nike.

This statement sums up the target market of Nike. However, from personal research, the most popular age range wearing Nike was 18 – 40, meaning the NikeGREEN project will be aimed at this audience but every race and gender. This generation are those who can push forward the sustainable consumerism and attitude.

With the ethos of the Games being similar to Nike’s, linking ‘Just Do It’ and ‘Everyone’s Games’ will reinforce the invitation and inspiration to play sport, which the London Olympics and Nike are encouraging.

Due to the fact that fashion is so fast paced and focuses on aesthetics, sustainability is always going to be a consumer attitude that will be hard to influence. As long as fast consumption is available, the freedom of choice is not going to encourage the cradle to cradle outlook. This is one of the main aims of NikeGREEN; to change consumer attitudes and purchasing patterns.

A point made in Focus Group 1 (Appendix 5.2):

“I think some of the eco friendly things are ones that benefit us as consumers in a selfish way, like with Tesco points.”

This consumer mind set could be used for NikeGREEN, by using a discount scheme through the encouragement Reuse-A-Shoe.

In terms of the store design, Nike’s visual merchandising does not just encourage the sale of sportswear; it sells the ethos of ‘Just Do It’. NikeGREEN will sell sport AND sustainability to customers.

Considering the amount of criticism Nike has already received for worker conditions, and the Playfair 2012 Campaign, this issue needs to be addressed so that the brand isn’t labelled as the ‘Black Spot’ at such a prestigious event, thus overshadowing the concept of NikeGREEN.

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7. Endnotes1 www.mudpie.co.uk/trends 2 http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/history/1950s.html3 http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/timeline 4 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 1 5 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 2 6 http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/history/1950s.html 7 http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/history/1950s.html8 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 19 9 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 19 10 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 3711 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 3912 Klein, 2005: 7513 Klein, 2005: 37214 Klein, 2005: 37415 Klein, 2005: 37416 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 417 http://www.mcafee.cc/Classes/BEM106/Papers/2009/Adidas.pdf18 http://www.economist.com/node/16486727?story_id=1648672719 http://www.mcafee.cc/Classes/BEM106/Papers/2009/Adidas.pdf20 http://www.economist.com/node/16486727?story_id=1648672721 http://www.wikinvest.com/stock/Puma_AG_Rudolf_Dassler_Sport_(PUM- FF)#_ref22 http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/patagonia.go?assetid=232923 http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortunearchive/2007/04/02/8403423/i ndex.htm24 http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/patagonia.go?assetid=232925 http://www.mcdonough.com/writings/inspiration_innovation.htm26 http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/268685/the_most_eth ical_shoe_store_in_the_world.html27 http://www.adbusters.org/campaigns/blackspot28 http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2010/04/features/work-smarter- howies29 http://www.howies.co.uk/content.php?xSecId=2030 http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2010/04/features/work-smarter-howies31 http://www.wired.co.uk/magazine/archive/2010/04/features/work-smarter-howies32 http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/01/trigema_develop.php33 Fletcher, 2008: 113 34 http://www.nikebiz.com/responsibility/community_programs/reuse_a_shoe.html 35 http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/12/business/ energyenvironment/12sustain.html?ref=nike_inc36 http://www.nikebiz.com/responsibility/community_ programs/reuse_a_shoe.html37 www.fibre2fashion.com/news/printstory.asp?news_id=6537938 www.fibre2fashion.com/news/printstory.asp?news_id=6537939 www.fibre2fashion.com/news/printstory.asp?news_id=6537940 http://www.climatecounts.org/about.php41 http://www.climatecounts.org/scorecard_score.php?co=4342 http://www.ecouterre.com/nike-outfits-world-cup-teams-in-jerseys-made-from-recycled-bottles/43 McDonough, 2002: 5844 McDonough, 2002: 5045 McDonough, 2002: 27-2846 McDonough, 2002: 2747 McDonough, 2002: 548 Fletcher, 2008: 11249 McDonough, 2002: 2550 McDonough, 2002: 26

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51 McDonough, 2002: 5652 McDonough, 2002: 5553 McDonough, 2002: 5854 http://www.nikebiz.com/responsibility/considered_design/considered_index.ht ml : Appendix 1.1355 http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/12/business/energy-environment/12sustain.html?ref=nike_inc56 www.fibre2fashion.com/news/printstory.asp?news_id=6537957 http://www.mcdonough.com/writings/inspiration_innovation.htm58 Fletcher, 2008 :659 Fletcher, 2008: 3760 Fletcher, 2008: 3861 Fletcher, 2008: 4162 Fletcher, 2008: 4463 http://instoresnow.walmart.com/Sustainability.aspx64 http://news.cnet.com/8301-11128_3-10288186-54.html65 Fletcher, 2008: 9666 Fletcher, 2008: 9867 Fletcher, 2008: 10368 http://www.economist.com/node/16647677?story_id=1664767769 http://www.economist.com/node/16647677?story_id=1664767770 http://www.economist.com/node/16647677?story_id=1664767771 http://www.rbkc.gov.uk/howwegovern/keydecisions/Reports/Cabinet/2004-05/Jan%202005/KD01820RA.pdf72 http://stylenews.peoplestylewatch.com/2010/07/14/stella-mccartneys-olympic-challenge/73 http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/other_sports/olympics_2012/6718243.stm74 http://www.rbkc.gov.uk/howwegovern/keydecisions/Reports/Cabinet/2004-05/Jan%202005/KD01820RA.pd75 http://www.google.com/hostednews/ukpress/article/ALeqM5gWCm_AtXE57Vj2rfD6HW als55azA?docId=B1960561288086420A0076 http://www.morethanthegames.co.uk/london-2012/2813508-london-2012- deighton-describes-olympic-ticket-interest-mind-blowing77 http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp- dyn/content/article/2008/08/12/AR2008081203262_2.html78 http://www.morethanthegames.co.uk/summer-sports/1510442-london-2012- public-support-yet-drop-says-redgrave79 http://www.independent.co.uk/sport/olympics/1948-olympics-we-had-much- more-fun-and-a-greater-sense-of-achievement-than-modern-athletes-do- 497866.html80 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/books/non_fictionreviews/3673808/How- the-Olympics-came-to-Lon-don-in-1948.html81 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/books/non_fictionreviews/3673808/How- the-Olympics-came-to-Lon-don-in-1948.html82 http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/timeline.html83 http://www.waronwant.org/campaigns/love-fashion-hate-sweatshops/playfair- 201284 Morgan, 2008: 1185 Manuelli, 2006: 6-786 Goldman & Papson, 1998: 1687 http://www.nikebiz.com/media/pr/2010/11/08_niketown_london.html88 Onderwater, 2009: 3389 http://www.stylographics.co.uk/news.php?news_id=3390 http://mslk.com/reactions/anthropologie -store-windows/?author=291 http:// www.ecouterre.com/barneys-new-york-recycles-espresso-foil-bags- into-glamorous-gown//r:f92 http://www.greenroomretail.co.uk/portfolio. php?id=50&company=Nike-Sportswear93 http://xinkaishi.typepad.com/a_new_start /2009/04/business-times-popup-frenzy.html94 Dowdy, 2008: 16195 http://xinkaishi.typepad.com/a_new_start/2009/04/business-times-popup- frenzy.html

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96 Dowdy, 2008: 17297 Manuelli, 2006: 17498 Manuelli, 2006: 17799 http://sneakernews.com/2010/07/19/nike-basketball-pop-up-shop-in-harlem- the-ball-room/100 Dowdy, 2008: 180101 Dowdy, 2008: 182102 Dowdy, 2008: 183103 http://www.thedoubleclub.co.uk/about/about.html104 Blokland, Schultz, Willems, 2007: 177105 Blokland, Schultz, Willems, 2007: 179106 Blokland, Schultz, Willems, 2007: 179107 http://inhabitat.com/prefab-friday-puma-city-shipping-container-store- comes-to-bostons-fan-pier/108 http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2010/sep/14/smirnoff-zane-lowe-nightlife- exchange-project

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Shipley, A. & Fan, M. 2008. Beijing is all Dressed up, But No-one is Going. Available at: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wpdyn/content/article/2008/08/12/AR2008081203262_2.html [Accessed: 25/11/10, 13:11pm]

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9. Image References1. Nike Rugby Advertisement: http://theinspirationroom.com/daily/2007/england-play-rugby-with-nike-manifesto/2. Nike Advertisement: http://diptnyc.com/branding-and-advertising/run-elite-town/3. Nike Swoosh Design: http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/timeline/4. Waffle Sole: http://www.nikebiz.com/company_overview/timeline/5. Nike Wheelchair Campaign: http://www.jsonline.com/business/29479144.html6. Nike Womenswear Advertisement: http://www.nikeblog.com/2010/07/26/new-nike-women-ad-my-butt-is-big/7. Re-Use a Shoe: http://www.nikebiz.com/responsibility/community_programs/reuse_a_shoe.html8. Nike Considered Shoe: http://www.designverb.com/2007/08/15/nike-long-ball-lace-100-sustainable/9. Nike Recycled Uniforms: http://www.ecouterre.com/nike-outfits-world-cup-teams-in-jerseys-made-from-recycled-bottles/10. Weiden & Kennedy Nike78 Project: http://www.creativereview.co.uk/cr-blog/2010/june/nike78-project11. Puma Box Bag: http://graphicartsmag.com/news/2010/06/reinventing-the-shoe-box12. Back2Back Dress: Fletcher, K. (2008) Sustainable Fashion & Textiles. Page 10213. Olympic Rings: http://woldcnews.com/national/markgray/chicago-loses-out-to-rio-in-olympics-bid/14. Olympic Park: http://www.economist.com/node/16647677?story_id=1664767715. London 2012 Olympic Logo: http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/other_sports/olympics_2012/6718243.stm16. Playfair 2012 Logo: http://www.waronwant.org/campaigns/love-fashion-hate-sweatshops/playfair-201217. Ubiq Store: http://www.thecoolhunter.com.au/article/detail/1332/ubiq-philadelphia18. Harvey Nichols Window Display: Own image19. Niketown London: http://www.nikebiz.com/media/pr/2010/11/08_niketown_london.html20. Nike Shoe Box: http://www.thecoolhunter.net/article/detail/175921. Anthropologie Window: http://mslk.com/reactions/anthropologie-store-windows/?author=222. Barney’s Window Display: http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/5D0kaO/www.ecouterre.com/barneys-new-york-recy-cles-espresso-foil-bags-into-glamorous-gown//r:f23. Nike JD Sports Display: http://www.greenroomretail.co.uk/portfolio.php?id=50&company=Nike-Sportswear24. Illy Pop Up: http://wwff.wordpress.com/2007/10/09/illy-in-a-box/25. Comme Des Garcons: Manuelli, S. (2006) Design for Shopping. Page 17726. The Ballroom Store: http://sneakernews.com/2010/07/19/nike-basketball-pop-up-shop-in-harlem-the-ball-room/27. Orange Shop: Dowdy, C. (2008) One-Off – Independent Retail Design. Page 18128. The Double Club: http://www.thedoubleclub.co.uk/about/about.html29. Heineken Greenspace: Blokland, T. Schultz, S. & Willems, M. (2007) Design: Happening for Events. Page 17830. Puma City: http://inhabitat.com/prefab-friday-puma-city-shipping-container-store-comes-to-bostons-fan-pier/31. Smirnoff Project: http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2010/sep/14/smirnoff-zane-lowe-nightlife-exchange-project

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