nice and easy v 1.0

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Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0 Shirley Rae Knits NICE A simple tabi, or tho fl E. AND. EASY. ong sock knit from the toes up, w lap for fit and comfort. with a heel

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Page 1: Nice and Easy V 1.0

Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0

Shirley Rae Knits

NICE

A simple tabi, or thong

flap for fit and comfort.

NICE. AND. EASY.

thong sock knit from the toes up, with a heel

flap for fit and comfort.

sock knit from the toes up, with a heel

Page 2: Nice and Easy V 1.0

Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0

Shirley Rae Knits

I love tabi socks, or thong socks, if you prefer

them year ‘round, except outside in the snow.

nice thing about tabi socks is that you can wear them with regular

shoes, though of course, one can’t wear traditional socks with flip

flops with as much ease.

These are such easy, simple, and quick sock

features a heel flap, a wonderfully stretchy bind

on two circular needles.

Level of Experience: Advanced Beginner

Size: Medium/Large

Gauge: 8 sts/12 rows = 1 inch/2.5 cm

Length of sock leg, cuff to floor: 6”

Circumference of Ankle/Foot (unstretched):

Length of Foot: to be determined by individual

Yarn: Fingering weight, approximately 75

photo is Sensations Bamboo & Ewe

Needles: Two US 1/2.25mm, or 1 long needle for Magic Loop

DPNs: optional but handy for the

Stitch Markers: optional

Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

K2tog Knit two stitches together

Kfb Knit into the front of the stitch, then knit

M1L From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop

M1R From the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop

Pfb* Purl the front of the stitch, and then purl into the back of the same stitch

Pbf* Purl the back of the stitch, and then purl into the front of the same stitch

P2tog Purl 2 stitches together

Sl Slip a stitch knit-wise on knit rows; purlwise on purl rows

SKP Slip, knit, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch

SSK Slip, slip knit slipped stitches together

(*Note : The pfb and pbf each achieve the same purl increase,

PATTERN:

Use whatever seamless cast-on method you are most comfortable with; for me, it is the Turkish

Cast On, and some excellent instructions are here:

http://fluffyknitterdeb.blogspot.com/2005/10/knitting

Note: With the Turkish Cast On, you will begin with half the total number

of stitches required on the initial round. This is because you first knit the

loops on one needle, whi

needle are knit, which become stitches, making up the total of stitches for

both needles.

, or thong socks, if you prefer! In fact, I wear

them year ‘round, except outside in the snow. A big plus and very

nice thing about tabi socks is that you can wear them with regular

shoes, though of course, one can’t wear traditional socks with flip

, and quick socks to knit! This pattern

a heel flap, a wonderfully stretchy bind-off, and are knit

Level of Experience: Advanced Beginner

/2.5 cm

Length of sock leg, cuff to floor: 6”/15.2 cm

Circumference of Ankle/Foot (unstretched): 7 ½”/19.1 cm

Length of Foot: to be determined by individual

approximately 75 grams – 335 yards as pictured. The yarn in the

photo is Sensations Bamboo & Ewe

or 1 long needle for Magic Loop – or size to obtain gauge

the 3-needle bind-off

Knit two stitches together

Knit into the front of the stitch, then knit into the back of the same stitch

From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop

From the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop

stitch, and then purl into the back of the same stitch

Purl the back of the stitch, and then purl into the front of the same stitch, optional

wise on knit rows; purlwise on purl rows

knit, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch

Slip, slip knit slipped stitches together

each achieve the same purl increase, though I find the pbf

on method you are most comfortable with; for me, it is the Turkish

Cast On, and some excellent instructions are here:

uffyknitterdeb.blogspot.com/2005/10/knitting-made-easier-turkish-cast-on

With the Turkish Cast On, you will begin with half the total number

of stitches required on the initial round. This is because you first knit the

loops on one needle, which become stitches; then the loops on the second

needle are knit, which become stitches, making up the total of stitches for

as pictured. The yarn in the

or size to obtain gauge

From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop, optional

From the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop, optional

, optional

pbf easier to do.)

on method you are most comfortable with; for me, it is the Turkish

on.html

With the Turkish Cast On, you will begin with half the total number

of stitches required on the initial round. This is because you first knit the

ch become stitches; then the loops on the second

needle are knit, which become stitches, making up the total of stitches for

Page 3: Nice and Easy V 1.0

Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0

Shirley Rae Knits

TIP: in knitting the toe box area, you might find it helpful to make an outline drawing

your own toe box, and then you can refer to it while knitting your sock!

In this outline drawing of my own toe box area, you

see that the second toe is a leader toe, and extends

beyond my big toe, so when I knit the big toe cap,

I knit it to be as long as my leader toe. This is a personal

choice, and reflects a bit of vanity!

I also knit the Four Toe cap to match the general shape

of my toes, which to my mind, makes for a comfortable

fitting sock.

Big Toe Cap: Cast on 4 wraps. Knit one round – a total of 8 stitches on the two needles. Next

round: Knit 1, increase (kfb) in the next 2 stitches, knit 1; repeat on second needle. There are now 4

new increases - 6 stitches on each side, 12 stitches total. In each of the following rounds,

increase as follows: knit 1, kfb, knit to the last two stitches, kfb, knit 1; repeat on second needle.

Continue to increase one stitch on each side until there are 12 stitches per side, 24 stitches total.

Then knit each round plain for total of about 2 inches, or until the base of the toe is reached. On

Needle 1, knit first 9 stitches, place the remaining 3 on a piece of waste yarn, together with the

first three stitches of Needle 2. Cut yarn, leaving about 20 inches of yarn, and place remaining

stitches of both needles onto on a separate length of waste yarn if you do not have a second set of

needles. This length of yarn will be used later to join the two caps.

Four Toe Cap: Again using two needles, cast on 8-16 wraps. I give this range of wraps

because no two sets of feet are the same (!), and your own toes will be different from mine, or

anyone else’s for that matter! Here’s where it will help to know the stitch gauge, and using your

drawing as a guide. Now, once you have cast on the proper number of wraps for your particular

toes, increase (kfb) one stitch each end of the cast-on edge for two rows (this will give a nice

rounded toe box). Continue increasing as described for the Big Toe Cap, on the outer edge of

your toes, every one, two, or three rows (depending on the shape of your particular toe box area),

until the cap reaches 2 inches, or the length of the Big Toe cap. This is the beauty of knitting

tabi socks toe-up…you can keep trying them on and shaping them as you go!

When the length of the Four Toe cap is as long as you want, you are now ready to join both caps,

so place the last three stitches of Needle 1 and the first 3 stitches of Needle 2 onto a spare needle,

such as a DPN. I find a DPN easier to use and maneuver for the 3-Needle Bind off, and bamboo

needles help control pesky stitches!

Figure 1 Figure 2

Completed toes viewed from the front Completed toes viewed from the top

Page 4: Nice and Easy V 1.0

Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0

Shirley Rae Knits

This drawing illustrates, with the vertical line, where the

two toe caps will be joined. The solid horizontal line

indicates the cast on edge, while the dashed lines indicate

the increases.

Join the two caps: Place the 6 stitches of each of the toe caps onto separate needles, with the

Big Toe cap and the Four Toe cap facing each other…the Four Toe cap closest to you, the Big

Toe cap directly underneath, and with the tail end of the Big Toe cap to your right, as this will be

the yarn you will use to join. Join together using a 3-needle bind-off, with the tail end of the Big

Toe cap as your working yarn. (Note: Here is an excellent tutorial on YouTube demonstrating

the 3-Needle Bind-Off: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU&feature=related.)

TIP: If you prefer not to use the 3-Needle Bind-Off, then after you have joined the

two caps and have knit a couple of rows as described below, join the two inner cap

edges either using the Kitchener stitch, or with whip stitches, using the length of yarn

from the Big Toe cap.

Once the two caps have been joined, and continuing with the yarn from the 4 toe cap, pick up 1

stitch where the two caps join, then the stitches of the big toe cap, continue along the other side,

again picking up 1 stitch where the two caps meet. At this point, count the total number of

stitches on each needle, and if needed, continue to increase on the outside of the foot until there

are 33 stitches for each needle, for a combined total of 66 stitches. Knit on these stitches until

the sock is three inches short of the length of your foot.

Gusset Shaping:

Round 1: Knit across the stitches on Needle 1 (instep). On Needle 2 (sole), knit 1, kfb, place

marker, then knit until last two stitches, place marker, kfb, knit 1. (Note: I place markers here to

make it easier to keep track of my increases. I don’t move the marker after I first place it, other-

wise I wouldn’t know how many increases I’ve made!)

Round 2: Knit all stitches across both needles.

Note: Use the M1L or M1R increases instead of the kfb, if you prefer.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until there are 11 increases on each side of the marker…for a total of 55

stitches on Needle 2. Knit across Needle 1 once more, and then begin to Turn the Heel.

Turn the Heel:

Row 1: (RS) K 37, KFB, K1, W&T (see Note Box below)

Row 2: P 22, PBF, P1, W&T (see my note in Abbreviations)

Row 3: K 20, KFB, K1, W&T

Row 4: P 18, PBF, P1, W&T

Row 5: K 16, KFB, K1, W&T

Row 6: P 14, PBF, P1, W&T

Row 7: K 12, KFB, K1, W&T

Row 8: P 10, PBF, P1, W&T

Page 5: Nice and Easy V 1.0

Nice. And. Easy. Version 1.0

Shirley Rae Knits

Needle 2 now holds 63 stitches, having just completed a wrong-side row. On the right side, knit

to the end of Needle 2, knitting each wrap together with the stitch it wraps*. Work across the

instep stitches on Needle 1.

Heel flap: Work back and forth on heel stitches on Needle 2:

Row 1 (RS): K 47 (knitting each wrap together with the stitch it wraps*), SSK/SKP**, turn

Row 2: Sl1, P 31, P2TOG, turn

Row 3: [Sl1, K 1] 16 times, SSK, turn

(*Note: This might be heresy, but I don’t think it is critical that the wraps be picked up

and knit together, especially with yarns that are patterned or handpainted.)

(**Note: The SKP and the SSK accomplish the same thing, being methods of decreasing. It’s

your choice which to use.)

Repeat Rows 2-3 until all of the side stitches have been worked, ending with having worked

Row 2. Needle 2 now holds 33 stitches.

Return to working in the round again.

Work in stockinette for 3 inches/7.62cm, or to desired ankle length

Ribbing: Do ribbing of k1,p1 for 20 rows

Bind-Off I love Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-off, it is extremely

stretchy. Essentially this particular bind-off features a yarn-

over before each stitch that is to be bound off, then that yarn

over goes over the knit or purl stitch, then the previously

bound-off stitch loop goes over that. One additional note is not

to cinch up stitches as they are bound off.

Here is the tutorial for this bind-off: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php©

Weave in all ends.

Cast on your second sock NOW. Wear with Pride!!

Copyright © 2010 Shirley Rae Knits. This material may not be reprinted without the author’s permission. This pattern may not

be used to produce items for commercial purposes.

NOTE: Wrap and Turn.

W&T On the knit side: Bring the yarn to the front as if to purl, slip the next stitch

purlwise, then bring the yarn to the back, as if to knit. Slip the just slipped stitch back

onto the left hand needle. Turn the work around, and your yarn will now be in position

to purl across.

W&T On the purl side: Bring the yarn to the back, as if to knit, slip the next stitch

knitwise, then bring the yarn back to the front, as if to purl. Slip the just slipped stitch

back onto the left hand needle. Turn the work around, and your yarn will now be in

position to knit across.

Picking up and Knitting the Wraps: Knit to the wrapped stitch. Slip the tip of the

right needle under both the wrap and the stitch it wraps, and knit them together.

Figure 4 The tidy finish of the JSSBO bind off