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  • NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, JULY HEARTH&BOUDOIR THE · 2017-12-21 · NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. JULY 27. 1902. HEARTH&BOUDOIR INITIALS. HEMSTITCHING AND EM-BROIDERED DESIGNS OFFER
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NEW- YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. JULY 27. 1902. HEARTH &BOUDOIR INITIALS. HEMSTITCHING AND EM- BROIDERED DESIGNS OFFER A^ FASCINATING FIELD FOR CLEVER WORKERS. "The possibilities that towels now offer to taw woman who is clever with he» needle are many, for embroidery is the new feature of the newest towels." says the current rrastbe* cf "The Needle- work Magazine." ft is not j only that the bast towels show the embroider— l initial letter, mono- gram or interlaced letters more conspicuously than ever, but an embroidered design !s now added. Sometimes the fleur-de-lis pattern and then again an embroidered vine is use<j. "Comparing the towel of to-day with the towel of live years ago. it is astonishing to see sow the fashions have changed. ' Towels have grown larger, more expensive and better looking, until now v they are genuinely worth studying because of their ar- tistic merit. " j "The huckaback towel Is the successor of the damask towel, even for v. ry best use. and the hem- stitched border has taken the place of the fringed ends. But it is not the plain huckaback towel that fashion favors, but a huckaback foundation with a glossy damask design, generally in a floral pattern. These towels are seen In great variety. The dam- ask figures are used as a border, or are scattered ail over the towel. * In size many of the best towels are a yard and a half long and twenty-seven Inches wide. The materials most used are huckaback, plain or with damask designs: Irish linen, bird's-eye, basket weave and mummy cloth. ( ; , "The hemstitched hem is the approved finish. It NEEDLEWOKK ON TOWLLS FOR TIIK PICNIC BASKET. For the picnic luncheon nothing is more deUctOtta or slightly than turnovers male after the good, old fashioned New-Baglaad manner. Apples are best of all for the pmaose. \u25a0** soon as they are large enough for apple sauce they are ready for turn- overs. In fact, the turnover is made of apple sauce. Took the apples until they are tender, and then push them through a colander or sieve, and sweeten and sesjssa with nutmeg or cinnamon. LEATHER DESK SETS. Possibilities for desk sets are increasing. The new \u25a0 idea Is to have th- Implements harmonise in color with the furnishings of the room in which they are to be u. e«l. Leather is deservedly pop- ular for- this purport — Russian levcnt. alligator and walrus all being ha equal favor. It is possible to order Beta in any of these leathers. In tan. blue, 01 red, purple or green. The newest metal for iie«;k sets hi copper enamel. finished witli a transparent golden hue which pro- duces an indescribably beautiful effect. An Ink- stand of this material which cost $25 was mounted with silver and litted with a pen rack fashioned from a stag: horn. en rod and purp!" asters are Tiagliiiilngto be seen among the linvtless designs shown in stationery de- partments. Where formerly. I > obtain designs suited to table decorations. It was necessary to order the dinner cards weeki- before they were wanted. It is now possfale to and ready in either imported or domestic sorts, color schemes and deslnis for any function. Ihe aalnty Japanese *iri has been* the musi popular design f>r this summer. . rhaps, she ler.d.^ herself gncefuily to any decorating Hch'me. Fiery variety cf dowers is" ta b«- bad- all tr*.> new t-'.! popular roses, with the w) .is w»H: tasturtlums. pansies. orchids, pink clover and white -s. e tc. Th>>-e is the usuai - ittd the like The little liower \u25a0:s wired for wine iTiibsi \u25a0 especial favor Jusi r.i-s THE L\ A. THOMPSON* SCENIC RAILWAY. An enjoyable and healthful recreation for old and your.g at Coney Island. Midland Beach and Rorkaway SURPLICE EFFECTS. TOWEL WITH ELABORATE NEEDLEWORK. THIRD IN A SERIES OF HINTS ON TAKING GOOD PICTURES. A photograph Is not always a picture. The mere regard for the mechanism and chemistry of pho- tography does not Insure success In the art, for the results may be a composition far from pleasing to the eye. For Instance, a straight front view or the end view of a building is always disagreeable because there can be no perspective. In photographing anything with height, breadth and depth all the proportions should appear. A view from one corner is preferable to any other, although the best effect is seldom obtained by placing the camera directly opposite a corner. The photograph should show. If possible, more of the front than of the end. Sometimes, where a street if very narrow. it Is impossible to find the ideal position for a camera, and In such rases the pho- tographer la obliged to be content with the. nearest possible approach to that point. The position of the camera and It* height with regard to the ob- ject to be photographed are of the utmost lm- pcrtar.ee. With regard to height, the choicest position Is the level of the eyes. When, however, the object to be delineated is so high that the only position of the camera from which the photograph can be taken at the height of the eyes is so far away that half or nearly half the plate Is lost in foreground, it may be preferable to make the exposure from a po- sition nearly half as high as the object. By this means the distance necessary to Include the whole figure may Le reduced nearly half, and the size of the object In the photograph be nearly doubled. LE880X& IX PHOTiMiRAPHY. BEAI'TIFT'T, SOUVENIRS OF THE BEACH -HOW TO MOIXT SPECIMEN*. Persons who have never collected at sure to find In the Occupation relief from the con- ventionalities with which seashore re<,»rt< abound and a pleasant resource for leisure hours when fancy work and summer novels have lost their charms. Then. tco. with the work there are sure to come delightful surprises, for the htconspl water growths develop, under proper treatment, m- suspected charms of form and color To know the names of the plants Is of benefit, of course, bul without a botanical term at hand one may still claim the title of collector An advantage of the work Is the fact that the the bo.lioe. finished by the lace, leaving a slight deco!l#tage. The sleeves is shirred at the top, ar- ranged in a puff at the elbows and finished with a big lace ruffl«* A pretty idea shown on a batiste gown consists of piittea finely pleated and heid with lace medal- lions. Four of these are used on the <ide of the skirt, running from the waist line almost to the bottom of the skirt. The panes hold small medal- lions, and end each In a large lace medallion. These pleated pieces are so lontf "'i the skirt that they might better perhaps be termed narrow panels, but on the bodi.-e they have more the appearance of pattea. All little cape effects seem popular. The little capuchin of lace and moussellne de sole is often use,! to cover j decolletage These fancy little capes almost Invariably match the costume and appear to form a part of it. A pretty shape Is simply a deep ruffle over the shoulders, with a smaller ruttte under the arms made without a choker and attached to the rront of the gown wi^h elaborate passementerie ornaments. SEAWEED COLLECTING. varies from two to two and a half inches hi The embroidered design may be introduced above or below the line of hemstitching. Gen it is used on one end of the towel only* stitching done in a spoke stitch ia much see-, an Insertion of drawn work is now considered . | correct than one of lace. One of the flx.est new towels Is of hemstitch huckaback, a ya. a half long, with a Mexican drawn work Insertion introduced at one end of the towel. The 51 drawn work stitches are made on the same prin- ciple as the regular drawn work. Drawn work Je- sign* are also often combined with solid embroid- ery, producing an extremely elaborate and effective decoration. "The correct p!a **a for marking fowls, whether a single letter or a morjogram Is used, 13 in ths centre of one end. Just two inches above the bor- der. Towels for everyday use are marked with a single letter four Inches long. Either the mono- gram or Interlaced letters are embroidered on the SPECIMENS OF LOCAL SEAWEEDS. PLAIN INITIALIN CORNER OW TOWEI* A TISSUE PAPER PATTERN" OF FANCY BLOUSE, CLOSING AT CENTRE BACK. NO. 3.960— THREE PIECE SKIRT. WITH TUCKED CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. NO. 3.590. PuR 10 CENTS FOR EACH PATTERN WANTED. . Dulnty thin materials are In the height of style for midsummer wear, and are never more charm- ing than in the fashionable white. This pretty an.i stylish gown l.*» of Persian lawn, with deep yokt of tucking. and Is trimmed with cream Mechlin 'ace. and worn with a hat of white chip, draped with white chiffon itnd trimmed with white roses, and white silk gloves. V, ; THE TRtBVSE PATTERS. Roll the paste Into a large round sheet. <-oj.er half of It generously with the apple, fold the other side over, moisten the Inside edges .draw .the straight skte to the edge of the moulding board are pinched together. WOMEX AT WATCH HILL. Watch Ilhi. R I-. •*'•!> a x.i, Watch HiU men what they think about woman ruffrage and the.r ability to manage municipal affairs, and he> will US the "answers. They "buck" like other men at the suffrage proposition. They add: "But our women-well, you Just ought to watch them manage the affairs of this summer town \n«i managers they are. In name as well as .act. Some forty of th-m are tas "City Mothers. Two years ago they took the Haws of government out of the hands of the men. and with their consent. •You see It was this way." said the woman who la secretary, as gtM stopped \u25a0 game of golf to talk to a -\u0084...,. reporter. "When there were enough cottages to form a respectable town the men or- ganized and Incorporated the Watch Hill Improve- men! Society, and struggled along with It for sev- eral year. The great trouble was that they were here only during their vacations. "When the men found that we were willingto take the responsibility and carry on an even greater work than they were doing, they handed over their charter. They were kind enough to vote themselves out and our officers and members In before drop- ping things'. " \u25a0 The society has done a great many things for the improvement of Watch Hill since the women took command. It is really responsible for the creation of the Watch Hillfire district and the extension of the mains of the Westerly water system. Formerly the settlement was dependent on windmills, many of which, being of artistic design, will he allowed to stand. Rubbish cans have been placed along the beach for the use of excursion parties. Two patrol- men have been employed for the season to assist the county authorities In keeping order. The so- ctcfy is now considering the proposition of sprtnk- !ln«' the roadways about the hill. The officers of the society are Mrs. S. D. McDon- nell. Brooklyn, president: Mrs. E. B. Bennett. Hart- ford, Conn., vice-president: Miss Phelps. New- York, iecretary, and Miss Hurnap. Baltimore, treasurer. / VOGUE OF SILK LACES. BUk laces are handsome and look well now on *hia, materials, although it is «ald that they will •>• J used lat«r .-.:. with •.'.\u25a0• autumn and winter |f*brlc«. A gown of whlta moussellne de oole has •*!>• ekirt built in three parts trimmed with a bor- i l^gCgfak^pitourey-JThere 1» » \u25a0urpUce effect oa PARISIAN DRESSMAKERS TRYING TO SUBSTITUTE THESE FOR THE BOLERO AND JACKET. Paris. July 19. •DreEsmakers are trying with Indifferent success to get away from the jacket front and bolero effects that have prevailed so long and that have of late bees slightly out of favor. Bodices are blouse- like and need a simple style of trimming. Large collars are more popular than ever. If that is pos- , Bible, and longer and more like capes over the ! shoulders. But they are not. however, universally becoming. Surplice effects seem to be coming In again, completed by some fancy chemisette. Stole effects, too. are seen, the pieces from the shoulders meeting, as a rule, to make one single panel down the front of the skirt. Passementerie trimmings grow more pronounced as the season advances, and will undoubtedly be a feature of the autumn models. A trimming of black silk grapes In a raised pattern is used on bands of art guipure on a gown of dull blue can- vas cloth. This trimming la placed in three deep bands on the skirt, forms the lower part to the big puffed sleeves and trims the collar, which fails over the shoulders in deep points. There is a cravat of black moussellne de sole tying loosely about the choker and falling In pleated ends. CHEMISETTE EFFECTS. There are a good many chemisette effects besides those used with surplice fronts. A style of blouse seen a good deal now closes a few inches below the choker, with a small attached or turnover col- lar, and perhaps a cravat falling in loose ends. This leaves a diamond shaped opening for a chemi- sette and choker. A gown of red voile has a col- lar made of stripes of red velvet sewed to white Bilk, lying over a deep collar of white lace, which meets in scarf ends falling down the front of the blouse. The chemisette and choker are made of softly draped cream colored mousseline de sole. The sleeves grow very large at the elbows, where they are draped and turned up with big cuffs of white Bilk striped -with lines of red velvet, and under- neath are close, mousquetaire sleeves of mousseline de sole. The skirt is shirred about the hips, and ha* three raised rows of shirrings about a foot aiove the hem. \u25a0'A white cloth dress is elaborately trimmed with soutache all about the bottcm of the skirt, the pat- tern running: up the back. There is a stole of wool sice, delicate and light as to pattern and ap- piioued with white silk flowers, that falls down the front of the skirt. A soft cravat and waistband are made of pale blue silk. A novel sleeve flares out at the elbow, and is •turned up a trifle with a silk ornament, on the ln- «ide of the arm. to show the lining of black and ••white striped silk. This makes the sleeve end two Inches above the elbow on the inside of the arm and sloi>e off In a rounded point on the outside. Under this axe two more sleeves, shaped and •trimmed to match, and a deep ruffle of lace. These \u25a0jtrlple sleeves are pretty, and the same idea may te carried out in a triple collar. fc GREAT ATTENTION TO SLEEVES. 1 Close half way to the elbow and completed by a -fence puff gathered into a wristband is a popular summer sleeve. Pretty, indeed. Is an unllned sleeve of mousseline de sole shirred closely almost to the elbow, and then making big puffs gathered into a little pointed wristband of black lace that half covers the hand like a mltalne. Big flowing Sleeves completed by close lace undersleeves are used on elaborate toilets. Odd and becoming is a full sleeve of moussellne de sole half covered with lace, which holds the sleeve close to the inside of the arm for Its entire length and arranges It In a graceful drapery on the outside. A gown of white mohair is made with one of the B ew box pleated skirts, the round, tubellke pleats. The sleeves are pleated in the same way and are attached to a close cuff six or .-even inches deep. The upper edge of this cuff Is encircled by a scarf of dotted blue and white foulard, tying with a knot and two little pointed end« on the outside of the arm. There is a soft belt of foulard, tying on one aide and cravat of the same, tying about a deep face' cellar The blouse is also gathered. Into round pleats. This costume is a new model sent out by a W Very 0 effective is a gown of white muslin, with fine dots of black In it. The lower part of the skirt to the knees and the deep collar on the blouse are of white lace trimmed with a pattern of flowers and bow knots done in narrow black satin ribbon. The effect is most novel. An evening gown of white moussellne de sole has vertical lines of black velvet ribbon on the corsage and skirt to the flounce. The flounce and a deep stole are of heavy white lace embroidered with black chenille. The stole is cut out deep in front to Show a ruffle of white lace, which passes under the stole on the sides and apparently makes the short ruffled sleeves. This lace is not embroidered. Two narrow straps of black velvet hold the stole pieces over the shoulders, and there 1* a bunch of black velvet roses on one side. The belt is of black velvet. DIRECTOIRE SCARFS FOR WINTER. An original and pretty black frock has a skirt of moussellne de sole trimmed with four flounces of black Chantilly put on in apron fashion, making deep, rounded points in front. The bodice of the lace is partly covered by a little pleated figure of moussellne de sole trimmed with a bertha of lace. Black and white ts modish combined In the pop- ular Directoire scarfs. One of white lace is mounted over black mousneline de sole, and the ends embroidered with Mack passementerie drops. The scarf is slightly adjusted in the back by means of a little cluster of black velvet bows. This makes it fit prettily over the shoulders. These scarfs are not expected to disappear with the warm weather They win be worn all winter in velvet, and fur and those of ostrich feathers are too becoming to be discarded even for sable. New designs in shirtwaists are. continually com- ing out The manufacturers of high priced blouses say they have orders for heavy linen and cotton waists for the autumn. These garments are to be as severe and "Ullored" as possible. A heavy cot ton embroidery is a feature of many of the heavy waists. Rather novel is a white linen waist with straps over the shoulders embroidered in red cot- ton and finished each by a bunch of red passemen- terie drops A blouse of heavy gray linen with a heavy design done in white cotton all about the shoafders Is effective. Attached collar and cuffs of white linen are worn with this. There is a new form of turnover linen collar, deep and babyish In appearance. It Is not high about the neck, and has rather a negligee look. Gray seems to be returning to favor. Little of It was saen during the spring, when the various tan abases were worn to death. A graceful gown of gray crape a mixed silk and wool fabric, has a band of Irish point over a foot deep on the bottom of the skirt This lace is trimmed with several rows of narrow gray velvet. Over the shoulders is a deep lace collar, almost a cap*, trimmed with several rows of velvet, each row finished by a little gray silk passementerie tassel. The full sleeves have a panel of lace down the outside of the arm said by ts> same littla tassels. Passementerie seems to be a feature of so many ffMras, even the thin and immmerllke ones. A pretty Crock of white point d'eaprtt mounted over pale blue \u25a0wntss eUne de sole, the mousseline covering the silk toandatSn. is trimmed with blue silk passementerie emameyLa. These make a trimming of ornaments sad loops that almost cover the short sleeves and 1 •'••• •' n.1n .1 of the bodies. TO UAYF. LUIIIT MIFFIXS. As much depends on the way In which the fn- gredlents are put together us on the recipe Itself A housekeeper who Is known for her fluffy break- fast muffins, which are always as light as t!u- proverbial feather, uses sour milk In making them, but decries the oldttme wuv of using it. According to traditional processes, the soda is mixed with the sour milk before the flour hi added. This meth- od, says the housewife in question, allows the effer- vescence to be over before the flour goes In. He- way Is to mix with the sour milk the flour, suit aad sugar and then to add the aoda dissolved in a little not water. By this means the entire mass rises. The last thing before the latter Is turned into the pans, a beaten egg Is folded In. This Is her recipe: Two cuprtda of flour, one cupful of sour milk, a half teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of sugar, a half teaspoonful of salt and one egg. With all the multitude of helps provided in these days for the young housewife, experience is still the best teacher, and without It a surety of success Is impossible. In the matter of sour milk, for ex- ample—lt Is delicious to cook with If It Is at Just the right degree of sourness, but only one wise from f;imillarlty with It knows when that point has been reached, and no one can glv« the amateur a hnrd and fast rule to follow. That the soda must be proportioned to the acidity of the milk is an In- fallible rule, but It leaves much to thr imagination. WHEN TO KNOW BALSAM. Bald a veteran of the forests the other day "Why. yes. I know bulsam. but I cannot tell you how to recognise it. ' Here is another Instance where learning must be had flrst hand. To know- balsam from the other spruces, not only the eye but the nose must be trained. No doubt number- less groups on hotel verandas in wilderness re- sorta. such as Maine and the Adirondack*, are stripping the needles from branches of pine, hem- lock and spruce and indulgingmeanwhile in fancies of fragrant balsam pillows which are later t o p , r . fume their '/dens." To know balsam beyond .1 doubt one must be familiar, too, with hemlock and the spruces. Hemlock is easily learned, because Its needles are more scanty, the stem bearing them flatter than that of the spruces. In the spruces the clusters of needles are round, and th. needles have a tendency to turn in. In the balsam the under side of the clusters of needles is flat and exposes tas stem, while the needle* turn out- ward. The odor of the balsam ts distinctive, but that must be learned by familiarity and associa- tion with It. The pillows of bulpam have an en- durine fragrance, which e»n always be intensified by heat. A few seconds In a warm ovea will .so revive the perfume that rhe nwm In which the pillow Is used will feel the effects for days after- ward. A washable pillow Is always the most satisfactory for the balsam plUow. Art linens and quaint figured chintzes are particularly suited to the purpose. FALL, STATIONERY. Autumn leaves dyed In glowing hues have al- ready appeared among the dinner cards, and guld- AN APPKTI/.ING DISH Tomatoen, because sf their pleasant acidity, an* suited to a great variety of combsaatlOßS. Aa ap- petizing breakfast dish is prepared with etfgs arid th« vegetables. Wash SS many round. apple shaped tomatoes as there are persons to be s,. r v.-0 ''ut a thin slice from th.* top of each for 1 .over and soop out a sufficient space t.> admit the eg,;. Put in each v little butter, drop In the unbroken white and yolk, salt and pepper, place a dot of butter on the top of the e«g. replace the cover and bake for about twenty minutes, or until the tomnto is tender Orated cheese may be sprinkled over the egg before the cover ts nut on. There Is no end of delicious stuffings for tomatoes They may de tilled with rice seasoned with salt. pepper and butter, and a -lash of curry or paprika If it ts wanted, with a forcemeat made of chopped meat flavored with onion Juice and purwley \u0084r with bread crumbs mixed with the tomato pulp and sea- soned to taste. They will need to b.i\e 111 a mod- erate oven about twenty minutes. PFRSIAN RICE RECIFE A woman who lived In Persia for flft^n years Is In despair because the rice which she buys, In this country refuses to puff Into the snowy mass that It so readily assumes on Its native shares. She dings to the Persian meth<xl of preparing It. Aft«r putting It rough several ringings In cold water, to remove all the loose flour on the outside of the grains, the rice 1m placed In a large quantity of cold water sad put over the fire, it is allowed to boll very hard, until It Is swollen to its full size and begins to soften. Then It is turned Into a colander and cold water la turned oven it until It 1.1 dry. Th» last step is to put butter Into th» bottom of the kettle, turn in the rice and lesuve It until It in heated through, but not browned: In Persia the entire mass will respond to this treatment by swelling Into a light, foamy con- sistency. Wh the rice is turned into a dish the butter goes with it. and permeates every kernel. , In Persia no one thinks of throwing away the wat»r in which rice Is cooked. It la used iii the preparation of tomato sauce. In stewing prunes. apricots and other fruits and for various culinary purposes. EMERGENCY CLOSET, The supply of the bathroom closet la no less Im- portant than is that of the kitchen. Besides its hot water bags, big and little, ammonia, witch hazel and the like, there Should be aromatic spirits of ammonia, collodion, lime water and sweet oil. a 1 per cent solution of carbolic acid, a box of ab- sorbent cotton and a roll of bandages, With these things ready for use. an accident such as a burn, a cut flng«r or a fainting fit will be easily met and pain will be spared the victim. The 1 per oent solution of carbolic is useful In all oases of Injury because of Its cleansing quali- ties. if a cut is to be treated, the wound should first be thoroughly cleansed In clear water, rinsed carefully In the carbolic solution and then painted with collodion. The collodion stops the bleeding and serves as a varnish to prevent dirt from entering. A mixture of lime water and sweet oil. the pro- portions for which are understood by all druggists. Is the best of remedies for a burn. If applied at once it will "take out the fire" and In most eases will prevent blistering. Bicarbonate of soda. too. If sprinkled on a burn as soon as it is received will prevent pain and blister Some people claim that butter is to be preferred to all other remedies for this purpose, and others cover the place with flour to exclude the air. One unscarred finger stands as an evidence of a carbolic solution treatment. it was burned with powder from .1 flashlight lamp from the :irst Joint to the end Of the finger, and so severely th.it the nail ma off. But a it.tnduge kept wet most of the time for two .lavs in a I per cent solution of car- bolic rt'stcr>*d the. member to comfort In an in- credibty short tin?.-. Arora spirits of ammonia Is a household article Indispensable in 'aniille.; where there are persons with weak hearti or with tendencies to faint, be- cause It facilitates she neart's \u25a0• lon more speedily thun brandy or whiskey, and with I*** danger to \u25a0tome patients. In cases of heart failure or faint- Ing a IvaspoonXul In a bait glas* of water can be £l\el». SEASONABLE HINTS ON REMOVING STAINS A TOMATO EGG BREAK- FAST DISH. In every boos* there should be an emergency closet carefully furnished and promptly replenished when supplies begin to lower. In it should be kept a cleaning fluid. turpentine, gasolene or benzine. Javelle water, oxalic acid, prepared chat*, chloride of lime, ammonia, absorbent paper, oho! and the thousand and one things which. If not .— \u25a0'. daily. are Indispensable when they are wanted. Javeile water Is one of the most useful of the family supplies, especially at this season. Hand- kerchief^ never c t to hopelessly yellow a* Coring the s.:m:r. r. when they are \u25a0.:-=\u25a0- ito wipe spiring {:<<\u25a0-< ami bands, but a hath for ten or fifteen minute* in a weak solution of j.iv- '.]>\u25a0 water will restore them to a clear complexion. Javelle enter, too, will remove \u25a0 bsttnate stains of ink and iron rest. The stained portion should be rubbed in the Sold and then trashed thoroughly. Javelle water Is the trusted friend of one house- keeper, hi least, who has employed it for years In her laundering Pillow cases that show a yellow tinge and table linen from which fruit stains have not bees, removed before washing, and which have contraband markings and spots, all come forth from the rinsing water to which Javelle water baa been added an spotless as when they were new. The liquidIs used in the proportion of 3 half ten- cupful to a tub! of clear water. After soaking for fifteen or twenty minutes they are rinsed in clear water and hung In the sun. TO TAKE OUT INK STAINS. Ink will also yield to oxalic acid and steam and to salts and lemon, Ifoxalic acid is employed, ru!> the spot with a slick or cork which has been wet In the \u25a0.old and hoi.] It at once over a steaming spout which is ready for the purpose. Unless a.l traces of the add are removed by thorough wash- Ing, a weak spot will result from th" treatment. Grass stains in the children's garments are amon-j the mire Indications of the outing season. Unless such blemishes are removed before going to the laundry It is a difficult mutter to eradicate them. A soaking In alcohol and subsequent rubbing with the fingers Is a simple cure 1: promptly applied. FOR SUMMER COTTAGERS. All summer cottagers have had the experience of a refractory lamp which persists in smoking in spite of all effort! of reform. Sometimes the evil can be cured by soaking the wick In strong vinegar and drying it thoroughly before returning it to the lamp. Soap rubbed on a complaining door hinge will silence its nerve wearing creak. FOR THE noi'SEWIFE. TO RESTORE LOST BEAUTY. Many advantages are claimed by lime. Caroline, face specialist. No. 219 Slxth-ave.. near Four- teenth-Bt., for her Ne Plus Ultra Face Beautifler and other specialties. A woman who uses the face beautlfler during the day. It is said, and a retiring cream at night, will remove all imper- fections in the skin, such as tan, freckles, liver spots, blackheads, pimples and wrinkles. Mme. Caroline is sole agent for the Royal Windsor Gray Hair Restorer (made in France). THEY GIVE BABIES SOLID FOOD. The average mother in easy circumstances will smile rather derisively on hearing that France has a law making it a crime to give solid food to any child under one year old. Yet every tenement house worker, visiting nurse. Health Department officer or Settlement resident can testify that the custom of feeding solid food to toothless infants Is wcilnigh universal In the slum tenements. France, with her low birth rate, has four.d that «he cannot spare the twenty thousand babies that were dying every year before the State took them under its care. The American waste of child life amounts to three hundred thousand annually under five years, the proportion of deaths being greatest among the foreign population, where the high birth rate is balanced by a heavy death rate. Beer, tea, coffee. condensed milk, watermelon, green corn and pork rind are among the "dainties" handed out to the unfortunate tenement house infant. "My baby sit up at table and eat everything all same as grown up, now." said one young foreign mother, proudly, displaying her saffron colored one- year-old to the pitying eyes of the superintendent or a day nurnerx. plants may be collected in the summer and not be pressed until it Is convenient. Even the sun dried products picked up on the seashore and carried home will respond to a «alt bath and unfold their tangled and meaningless masses into delicate trace- ries of pretty green, brown and red hues. Seaweeds can be gathered at all seasons of the year, but are at their best in the summer and early autumn. Some of them float free of anchorage in the ocean and others are attached to rocks and other station- ary objects by parts which are known as "hold- fasts" and look like roots, but furnish no nutriment to the plant. In order to make the specimens of value either as displays of nature's handiwork, or as motifs for china and other decoration, they must be mounted. Stiff cards are excellent for the purpose. They can be white or tinted, as taste dictates. With the cards and seaweeds and a couple of deep basins of salt water one Is ready to begin work. A pair of tweezers with which to pick up the delicate structures will be found useful. Float a small mass of specimens in one of the basins. Then, with the tweezer.", as it separates into It* parts, pick out a single plant and wash It free from all sand and impurities In the second basin. When this is done, plunge one of the cards under the water and bring It directly beneath the cleansed specimen. Holding the card at a sharp angle, arrange the base of the specimen in the desired position with a camel's hair brush, needle or wooden toothpick. This work must be done under water. When the delicate filaments are spread out to the best advantage, withdraw the card a little vlay from the water and observe the result. The seaweed will adhere without any diffi- culty As the arrangement progresses the card Is gradually lifted from the water until every por- tion Is complete. It a change in the arrangement Is desirable, plunge the card Into the water care- fully and make the alterations. When the work is finished the midrib should have a natural shape and from it the filaments should branch on either side. Drain off all the water possible and cover the mounts with white cotton cloth to prevent the seaweeds from adhering to anything else. When all the mounts are ready, press them under heavy weights for several hours, If the effort has been painstaking, beautiful souve- nirs will result. SMALL ECONOMIES! OF HEX. "One always hears." said the matron at the mend- Ing room of the C. O. S. laundry, "of the freedom of men with their change pockets: of how much more freely they spend for small things than women, and of how they despise the petty econo- mies of women. But really, you know, men who have an arrangement here to have their laundry mended willsend back pajamas to be mended when they are so bad that If they were sent In here for charity wo would throw them away." _. This Is nearly always necessary with tall objects when a fixed focus camera without a rising front or a swing back is employed. If. however, no place except the ground In available for the camera, the picture will be greatly Improved, although consider- ably reduced In size, by cutting away from two- thirds to three-fourths of the foreground before mounting the print. In no case should the camera be above the centre of the height of a building or tower. The picture Improves the nearer the camera Is brought to the height of the •*«\u25a0• provided, of course, the whole Of the structure Is Included. Nest In Importance to the position of the camera with regard to perspective and height Is It* rela- tion to light and shadow. A picture In which everything seen Is brightly lighted la rarely pleas- ing, and one li vhich the whole view Is in shadow is even less attractive. Flatness in a picture is due to want of contrast; that la. to the absence of high lights In a shadow picture, or to that of shadows in one made from a position directly be- tween the source of light and the object In near- ly all satisfactory photographs, Including groups and portraits, there Is a good blending of light and shade In considerable masses. A photograph mottled all over with shadows and flecks of light In nearly equal proportions Is almost as objec- tionable as one tnat Is light or shade tint. Ihe more nearly the masses of shadow assume rough triangular forms the better the picture; and tne larger the triangles, so one eltner of light or shadow does not exceed half to two-thirds of the area of the plate, the more pleasing the effect. This is limited, of course, to buildings and land- scapes. In taking a building it la best to have the front lighted and the end In shadow. The perspective, of course, If the camera Is placed as suggested, makes each side a triangle more or l«s» regular and complete, according to the style of the architecture. Light and shade In a picture are not wholly dependent upon sunshine and shadow. Dark ob- jects serve me same purpose as shadows. A tree in foliage Is always dark. A muss of foliage, there- fore. is as good—often even better — In balancing a landscape tnan an actual shady side to some ob- ject; and a picture with a high, green hill or a muss of foliage sloping down from one corner to a point at or beyond the middle Is always picturesque. Water and sky are nearly always very liglit, and when they furnish reversed tri- angles make the picture complete. On the beach a uark building, a pile of rocks or wreckage, or even a group of people near enough the camera almost to fill one end of the plate, greatly en- hances the beauty of the picture. If a group of people In utilized lor the purpose, care snuuld be exercised to have them in dark clothing. White attire defeats the principal purpose of utilizing a group in such a case. livery rule has some exceptions, and the rules of photography have theirs, but in a series of brief hints like these it la best to state the rule only. Two exceptions to the rile regarding the height of the camera ought, however, to be made. The best view of a crowd can be secured from a position overlooking it. A portrait should not be made with the camera very much below the chin of the subject. The level of the middle of the body greatly exaggerates the height of a person. THE RAG CARPET MAKERS. Tickets admitting women to the benefits of the Charity Organization Society workrooms, at No. 516 West Twenty-elghth'-st.. may be bought at the Charity Organization Society's headquarters. No. 105 East Twenty-second-st. The well known rag carpeting made by the .society may be ordered at either place. NO. la*— FANCY BLOUSE CLOSING AT CEN- TRE BACK; NO. 3.S>v-THR.Y:E PIECE SKIRT WITH TUCKED CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. The quantity of material required for the medium size is 11 yards 21 inches wide. 10 yards Zl inches,' wide. s>, yards \u25a0 inches wide, or 6'» yards « inch-*' wide! with *i yard of tucking or lace for yoke; to cut the wal.-t alone 3 yards 21 inches wide. -> 4 rani* 27 Inch-* wide. 24 yards X Inches wide. ;i 4 1% yards 44 Inches wide, with \ yard of allover tucking or lace tor yoke; to cut the skirt alone 10«- 4 yards 21 Inches wide. 8 yards 27 Inches wide. «* yards 32 Inches wide, or **£*+ U inches wide. The waist pattern. No. 3.D». Is cut in sizes for a 32. 34 38 33 and »<• Inch bust measure. The skirt pattern. No. 3.890 Is cut in Macs for a 22 "4 "« •8 and 30 Inch waist measure. Each" pattern will be sent to any address on re- ceipt of 10 cents. Please give number and bust and waist measure distinctly. Address Pattern Depart- ment New-York Tribune. If In a hurry for pat- tern. Bend an extra two cent stamp, and we will mall by letter postage in sealed envelope. \u25a0ar best towels. The style of lettering is a matter en- tirely of individual taste, but the plainer th-» 'let- ~ ters the better Just bow Both block and script letters are In favor. For the monogram or'inter- laced Initial* the letters should not rrea.-mre more than two and a l%ilf or three inches. Th«* papier- mache foundations have r>e~n too often tried and found wanting to be relied upon by even the ama- teur needlewoman. The work done over them 13 never as neat as when over a stamped. outline. and they do not launder well. :' .'.'": "It is essential that even more care should be taken in the filling of th.- letters than in the cov- ering, if they are to present a smooth appearance and to stand out well when finished, I*? plain darning cotton and fill lengthwise of the letter. Fill Just as much) as possible, and directly in th* centre of the MMMd outline. After the founda- tion has been carefully made, work the letters In \u25a0white cotton. No. "-10.' If"silk is preferred, usa embroidery silk, letter *F. "For toilet use the fringed towel la entirely out of fashion, but as a cover for the aide table or the buffet there are ma<nirtce".t towels of mummy cloth or Irish linen with long, handmade fringe. These towels also show an elaborate- embroidered design done in white or cream wash silk. The fringe should be four times the length of the depth of knotting; for example, if th.- knots are two Inches deep, the fringe hanging from them must t-;,' eight inches long." A serviceable.- large towel of mummy cloth finished with a two inch hemstitched hem and em- broidered In m design worked in dark red «m silk. The same design may be eiabroiderec In white or royal blue. An insertion of Mext<^ui drawn work done in heavy linen on one end only* is a favorite' finish for plain huckaback to* els. Bird's-eye -linen towels are also decorated on. mam end only. For bird's-eye linen, a combination of drawn work and solid embroidery worked Inr cream white wash silk is fitting. These elaborately embroidered towels are In- deed beautiful, and should have a place In every well stocked linen closet; but. after all. there is nothing more fittingly appropriate for its use than a tin*, plain huckaback towel with hemstitch-** hem. »nd embroidered initials. ' THE DECLISE OF THE APR' From The Woman's Home Companion for Au^ist. It is about forty years since the popularity at the apr"ii began to wane. At that time no wom- an's wardrobe was complete without an assortment of aprons for ail strts of occasions. A black silk apron was the acme of elegance and propriety, and any nondescript gown could, by the addition of the black silk apron, trimmed with a few rows of black velvet ribbon, be dlguined and adorned to the attar satisfaction of the wearer. ,An apron had rather .1 wide' field of usefulness when you consider that it rot- only preserved and embellished a new gown, but.it also concealed the defect*, and added dignity to an old one. An apron was always #s regie. Th* best -tress was kept clean by its use. and the daintiness of It represent- ed all th«? feminine traits.,- It was a regular banner of the home. To its strings the children were tied. "t'l*d to his mother's apron strings!" Contemptu- ous expression of subordination: And yet so much sentiment attached to it! Whoever was tied to Ms mother's apron strings was comparatively safe- was in his mothers lead. Mother's apron! The baby was rolled in It. Childish tears were dried with it The little boys used its strings for rein% and the little girls played princess and trailed Its ample folds behind them, real ladies in waiting to an Imaginary queen. Those were ante-new woman lavs. Knitting and needlework were feminine occupations. It was previous to th* day of higher education for women. It may sound far fetched to say that home senti- ment waned with the decline of the apron. The latter may not have been the cause, but it cer- tainly kept pace with tt. I have the written state- ment of a man to th? effect that a snow watts apron tied neatly about a trim waist had power to attack the masculine heri-t at Its most vulnerable point. After that, say there is no sentiment about an apron! But man cherishes sentiment about things of which the feminine mind has as concep- tion, and his heart has been many times ensnared In the muslin bow that tied at the back of his sweetheart's waist this banner of the home. The last was about the man of a generation ago. : But ."' the tr.an or vo-day had the same sentiment— latent;

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Page 1: NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, JULY HEARTH&BOUDOIR THE · 2017-12-21 · NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. JULY 27. 1902. HEARTH&BOUDOIR INITIALS. HEMSTITCHING AND EM-BROIDERED DESIGNS OFFER

NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. JULY 27. 1902.

HEARTH &BOUDOIR INITIALS. HEMSTITCHING AND EM-

BROIDERED DESIGNS OFFER A^FASCINATING FIELD FOR

CLEVER WORKERS."The possibilities that towels now offer to taw

woman who is clever with he» needle are many, forembroidery is the new feature of the newesttowels." says the current rrastbe* cf "The Needle-work Magazine." ft is not jonly that the basttowels show the embroider— linitial letter, mono-gram or interlaced letters more conspicuously thanever, but an embroidered design !s now added.Sometimes the fleur-de-lis pattern and then againan embroidered vine is use<j.

"Comparing the towel of to-day with the towel oflive years ago. it is astonishing to see sow thefashions have changed.

'Towels have grown larger,

more expensive and better looking, until now vthey

are genuinely worth studying because of their ar-tistic merit.

"j

"The huckaback towel Is the successor of thedamask towel, even for v. rybest use. and the hem-stitched border has taken the place of the fringedends. But it is not the plain huckaback towel thatfashion favors, but a huckaback foundation with aglossy damask design, generally in a floral pattern.

These towels are seen In great variety. The dam-ask figures are used as a border, or are scatteredail over the towel.*

Insize many of the best towels are a yard anda half long and twenty-seven Inches wide. Thematerials most used are huckaback, plain or withdamask designs: Irish linen, bird's-eye, basketweave and mummy cloth. (

;

, "The hemstitched hem is the approved finish. It

NEEDLEWOKK ON TOWLLS

FOR TIIK PICNIC BASKET.For the picnic luncheon nothing is more deUctOtta

or slightly than turnovers male after the good, oldfashioned New-Baglaad manner. Apples are best

of all for the pmaose. \u25a0** soon as they are largeenough for apple sauce they are ready for turn-overs. In fact, the turnover is made of applesauce. Took the apples until they are tender, andthen push them through a colander or sieve, andsweeten and sesjssa with nutmeg or cinnamon.

LEATHER DESK SETS.Possibilities for desk sets are increasing. The

new \u25a0 idea Is to have th- Implements harmonise

in color with the furnishings of the room in whichthey are to be u.e«l. Leather is deservedly pop-ular for-this purport

—Russian levcnt. alligator and

walrus all being ha equal favor. It is possible toorder Beta in any of these leathers. In tan. blue,01 red, purple or green.

The newest metal for iie«;k sets hi copper enamel.finished witli a transparent golden hue which pro-duces an indescribably beautiful effect. An Ink-stand of this material which cost $25 was mountedwith silver and litted with a pen rack fashionedfrom a stag: horn.

en rod and purp!" asters are Tiagliiiilngto be seenamong the linvtless designs shown in stationery de-partments.

Where formerly. I> obtain designs suited to tabledecorations. It was necessary to order the dinnercards weeki- before they were wanted. It is nowpossfale to and ready in either imported or domesticsorts, color schemes and deslnis for any function.Ihe aalnty Japanese *iri has been* the musipopular design f>r this summer. . rhaps,she ler.d.^ herself gncefuily to any decoratingHch'me. Fiery variety cf dowers is" ta b«- bad-all tr*.> new t-'.! popular roses, with the w).is w»H: tasturtlums. pansies. orchids, pink cloverand white -s. etc. Th>>-e is the usuai-

ittd the like The little liower\u25a0:s wired for wine iTiibsi \u25a0especial favor Jusi r.i-s

THE L\ A. THOMPSON* SCENIC RAILWAY.An enjoyable and healthful recreation for old and your.g at Coney Island. Midland Beach and Rorkaway

SURPLICE EFFECTS.

TOWEL WITH ELABORATE NEEDLEWORK.

THIRD IN A SERIES OF HINTS ON TAKING

GOOD PICTURES.

A photograph Is not always a picture. The mereregard for the mechanism and chemistry of pho-tography does not Insure success In the art, for theresults may be a composition far from pleasingto the eye. For Instance, a straight front view orthe end view of a building is always disagreeable

because there can be no perspective.In photographing anything with height, breadth

and depth all the proportions should appear. A

view from one corner is preferable to any other,

although the best effect is seldom obtained byplacing the camera directly opposite a corner. Thephotograph should show. If possible, more of thefront than of the end. Sometimes, where a streetif very narrow. it Is impossible to find the idealposition for a camera, and In such rases the pho-tographer la obliged to be content with the. nearestpossible approach to that point. The position ofthe camera and It* height with regard to the ob-ject to be photographed are of the utmost lm-pcrtar.ee.

With regard to height, the choicest position Is thelevel of the eyes. When, however, the object to bedelineated is so high that the only position of the

camera from which the photograph can be takenat the height of the eyes is so far away that halfor nearly half the plate Is lost in foreground, itmay be preferable to make the exposure from a po-sition nearly half as high as the object. By this

means the distance necessary to Include the wholefigure may Le reduced nearly half, and the size ofthe object In the photograph be nearly doubled.

LE880X& IX PHOTiMiRAPHY.

BEAI'TIFT'T,SOUVENIRS OF THE BEACH-HOW TO MOIXTSPECIMEN*.

Persons who have never collected at

sure to find In the Occupation relief from the con-ventionalities with which seashore re<,»rt< aboundand a pleasant resource for leisure hours whenfancy work and summer novels have lost theircharms. Then. tco. with the work there are sureto come delightful surprises, for the htconsplwater growths develop, under proper treatment, m-suspected charms of form and color To know thenames of the plants Is of benefit, of course, bulwithout a botanical term at hand one may stillclaim the title of collector

An advantage of the work Is the fact that the

the bo.lioe. finished by the lace, leaving a slightdeco!l#tage. The sleeves is shirred at the top, ar-ranged in a puff at the elbows and finished with abig lace ruffl«*

A pretty idea shown on a batiste gown consists ofpiittea finely pleated and heid with lace medal-lions. Four of these are used on the <ide of theskirt, running from the waist line almost to thebottom of the skirt. The panes hold small medal-lions, and end each Ina large lace medallion. Thesepleated pieces are so lontf "'i the skirt that theymight better perhaps be termed narrow panels, buton the bodi.-e they have more the appearance ofpattea.

All little cape effects seem popular. The littlecapuchin of lace and moussellne de sole is oftenuse,! to cover j decolletage These fancylittle capes almost Invariably match the costumeand appear to form a part of it. A pretty shape Issimply a deep ruffle over the shoulders, with asmaller ruttte under the arms made without achoker and attached to the rront of the gown wi^helaborate passementerie ornaments.

SEAWEED COLLECTING.

varies from two to two and a half inches hiThe embroidered design may be introducedabove or below the line of hemstitching. Genit is used on one end of the towel only*stitching done in a spoke stitch ia much see-,

an Insertion of drawn work is now considered .|correct than one of lace. One of the flx.estnew towels Is of hemstitch huckaback, a ya.

a half long, with a Mexican drawn work Insertionintroduced at one end of the towel. The 51drawn work stitches are made on the same prin-ciple as the regular drawn work. Drawn work Je-sign* are also often combined with solid embroid-ery, producing an extremely elaborate and effectivedecoration.

"The correct p!a **a for marking fowls, whethera single letter or a morjogram Is used, 13 in thscentre of one end. Just two inches above the bor-der. Towels for everyday use are marked with asingle letter four Inches long. Either the mono-gram or Interlaced letters are embroidered on the

SPECIMENS OF LOCAL SEAWEEDS.

PLAIN INITIALIN CORNER OW TOWEI*

A TISSUE PAPER PATTERN" OF FANCYBLOUSE, CLOSING AT CENTRE BACK. NO.

3.960— THREE PIECE SKIRT. WITHTUCKED CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. NO.

3.590. PuR 10 CENTS FOR

EACH PATTERN WANTED.

.Dulnty thin materials are In the height of style

for midsummer wear, and are never more charm-ing than in the fashionable white.

This pretty an.i stylish gown l.*» of Persian lawn,

with deep yokt of tucking. and Is trimmed withcream Mechlin 'ace. and worn with a hat of whitechip, draped with white chiffon itnd trimmed withwhite roses, and white silk gloves. V, ;

THE TRtBVSE PATTERS.

Roll the paste Into a large round sheet. <-oj.erhalf of It generously with the apple, fold the otherside over, moisten the Inside edges .draw .thestraight skte to the edge of the moulding board

are pinched together.

WOMEX AT WATCH HILL.

Watch Ilhi. R I-. •*'•!> a x.i, Watch HiU men

what they think about woman ruffrage and the.r

ability to manage municipal affairs, and he> will

US the "answers. They "buck" like other men

at the suffrage proposition. They add:

"But our women-well, you Just ought to watch

them manage the affairs of this summer town

\n«i managers they are. In name as well as .act.

Some forty of th-m are tas "City Mothers. Twoyears ago they took the Haws of government out of

the hands of the men. and with their consent.

•You see It was this way." said the woman who

la secretary, as gtM stopped \u25a0 game of golf to talk

to a -\u0084...,. reporter. "When there were enough

cottages to form a respectable town the men or-ganized and Incorporated the Watch Hill Improve-

men! Society, and struggled along with It for sev-eral year. The great trouble was that they were

here only during their vacations.

"When the men found that we were willingto

take the responsibility and carry on an even greater

work than they were doing, they handed over their

charter. They were kind enough to vote themselvesout and our officers and members In before drop-ping things'.

"\u25a0

The society has done a great many things for theimprovement of Watch Hillsince the women tookcommand. It is really responsible for the creationof the Watch Hillfire district and the extension ofthe mains of the Westerly water system. Formerlythe settlement was dependent on windmills, manyof which, being of artistic design, will he allowedto stand. Rubbish cans have been placed along thebeach for the use of excursion parties. Two patrol-men have been employed for the season to assistthe county authorities In keeping order. The so-ctcfy is now considering the proposition of sprtnk-!ln«' the roadways about the hill.

The officers of the society are Mrs. S. D. McDon-nell. Brooklyn, president: Mrs. E. B. Bennett. Hart-ford, Conn., vice-president: Miss Phelps. New-York,iecretary, and Miss Hurnap. Baltimore, treasurer.

/ VOGUE OF SILKLACES.BUk laces are handsome and look well now on

*hia,materials, although it is «ald that they will•>• Jused lat«r .-.:. with •.'.\u25a0• autumn and winter|f*brlc«. A gown of whlta moussellne de oole has•*!>•ekirt built in three parts trimmed with a bor-il^gCgfak^pitourey-JThere 1» » \u25a0urpUce effect oa

PARISIAN DRESSMAKERS TRYING TO

SUBSTITUTE THESE FOR THE

BOLERO AND JACKET.

Paris. July 19.•DreEsmakers are trying with Indifferent success

to get away from the jacket front and bolero effectsthat have prevailed so long and that have of late

bees slightly out of favor. Bodices are blouse-like and need a simple style of trimming. Large

collars are more popular than ever. If that is pos- ,Bible, and longer and more like capes over the !shoulders. But they are not. however, universally

becoming. Surplice effects seem to be coming Inagain, completed by some fancy chemisette. Stoleeffects, too. are seen, the pieces from the shouldersmeeting, as a rule, to make one single panel down

the front of the skirt.Passementerie trimmings grow more pronounced

as the season advances, and willundoubtedly be afeature of the autumn models. A trimming of

black silk grapes In a raised pattern is used onbands of art guipure on a gown of dull blue can-vas cloth. This trimming la placed in three deep

bands on the skirt, forms the lower part to thebig puffed sleeves and trims the collar, which failsover the shoulders indeep points. There is a cravatof black moussellne de sole tying loosely about

the choker and fallingIn pleated ends.

CHEMISETTE EFFECTS.There are a good many chemisette effects besides

those used with surplice fronts. A style of blouseseen a good deal now closes a few inches below

the choker, with a small attached or turnover col-lar, and perhaps a cravat falling in loose ends.

This leaves a diamond shaped opening for a chemi-sette and choker. A gown of red voile has a col-lar made of stripes of red velvet sewed to whiteBilk, lying over a deep collar of white lace, which

meets in scarf ends falling down the front of the

blouse. The chemisette and choker are made ofsoftly draped cream colored mousseline de sole. The

sleeves grow very large at the elbows, where they

are draped and turned up with big cuffs of white

Bilk striped -with lines of red velvet, and under-

neath are close, mousquetaire sleeves of mousseline

de sole. The skirt is shirred about the hips, and

ha* three raised rows of shirrings about a footaiove the hem.

\u25a0'A white cloth dress is elaborately trimmed with

soutache all about the bottcm of the skirt, the pat-

tern running: up the back. There is a stole of woolsice, delicate and light as to pattern and ap-piioued with white silk flowers, that falls down the

front of the skirt. A soft cravat and waistband aremade of pale blue silk.

A novel sleeve flares out at the elbow, and is

•turned up a trifle with a silk ornament, on the ln-

«ide of the arm. to show the lining of black and

••white striped silk. This makes the sleeve end two

Inches above the elbow on the inside of the armand sloi>e off In a rounded point on the outside.

Under this axe two more sleeves, shaped and

•trimmed to match, and a deep ruffle of lace. These\u25a0jtrlple sleeves are pretty, and the same idea may

te carried out in a triple collar.

fc GREAT ATTENTION TO SLEEVES.1 Close half way to the elbow and completed by a

-fence puff gathered into a wristband is a popular

summer sleeve. Pretty, indeed. Is an unllned

sleeve of mousseline de sole shirred closely almost

to the elbow, and then making big puffs gathered

into a little pointed wristband of black lace that

half covers the hand like a mltalne. Big flowing

Sleeves completed by close lace undersleeves are

used on elaborate toilets. Odd and becoming is afull sleeve of moussellne de sole half covered withlace, which holds the sleeve close to the inside of

the arm for Its entire length and arranges It In agraceful drapery on the outside.

A gown of white mohair is made with one of the

Bew box pleated skirts, the round, tubellke pleats.

The sleeves are pleated in the same way and areattached to a close cuff six or .-even inches deep.

The upper edge of this cuff Is encircled by a scarfof dotted blue and white foulard, tying with a knotand two little pointed end« on the outside of the

arm. There is a soft belt of foulard, tying on oneaide and cravat of the same, tying about a deepface' cellar The blouse is also gathered. Into roundpleats. This costume is a new model sent out by aW

Very0

effective is a gown of white muslin, withfine dots of black In it. The lower part of the skirt

to the knees and the deep collar on the blouse areof white lace trimmed with a pattern of flowers andbow knots done in narrow black satin ribbon. Theeffect is most novel.

An evening gown of white moussellne de sole has

vertical lines of black velvet ribbon on the corsage

and skirt to the flounce. The flounce and a deep

stole are of heavy white lace embroidered with

black chenille. The stole is cut out deep in front to

Show a ruffle of white lace, which passes under thestole on the sides and apparently makes the shortruffled sleeves. This lace is not embroidered. Twonarrow straps of black velvet hold the stole pieces

over the shoulders, and there 1* a bunch of blackvelvet roses on one side. The belt is of black velvet.

DIRECTOIRE SCARFS FOR WINTER.

An original and pretty black frock has a skirt ofmoussellne de sole trimmed with four flounces ofblack Chantilly put on in apron fashion, making

deep, rounded points in front. The bodice of thelace is partly covered by a little pleated figure of

moussellne de sole trimmed with a bertha of lace.Black and white ts modish combined In the pop-

ular Directoire scarfs. One of white lace ismounted over black mousneline de sole, and theends embroidered with Mack passementerie drops.

The scarf is slightly adjusted in the back by meansof a little cluster of black velvet bows. This makesit fit prettily over the shoulders. These scarfs arenot expected to disappear with the warm weatherThey win be worn all winter in velvet, and fur andthose of ostrich feathers are too becoming to bediscarded even for sable.

New designs in shirtwaists are. continually com-ing out The manufacturers of high priced blousessay they have orders for heavy linen and cotton

waists for the autumn. These garments are to beas severe and "Ullored" as possible. A heavy cot

ton embroidery is a feature of many of the heavy

waists. Rather novel is a white linen waist withstraps over the shoulders embroidered in red cot-ton and finished each by a bunch of red passemen-

terie drops A blouse of heavy gray linen with a

heavy design done in white cotton all about theshoafders Is effective. Attached collar and cuffsof white linen are worn with this. There is a newform of turnover linen collar, deep and babyish Inappearance. ItIs not high about the neck, and hasrather a negligee look.

Gray seems to be returning to favor. Little of Itwas saen during the spring, when the various tan

abases were worn to death. A graceful gown ofgray crape a mixed silk and wool fabric, has aband of Irish point over a foot deep on the bottomof the skirt This lace is trimmed with severalrows of narrow gray velvet. Over the shouldersis a deep lace collar, almost a cap*, trimmed withseveral rows of velvet, each row finished by a littlegray silk passementerie tassel. The full sleeveshave a panel of lace down the outside of the armsaid by ts> same littla tassels.

Passementerie seems to be a feature of so manyffMras,even the thin and immmerllke ones. A prettyCrock of white point d'eaprtt mounted over pale blue\u25a0wntss eUne de sole, the mousseline covering the silktoandatSn. is trimmed with blue silk passementerieemameyLa. These make a trimming of ornamentssad loops that almost cover the short sleeves and1•'••• •' n.1n .1of the bodies.

TO UAYF. LUIIIT MIFFIXS.

As much depends on the way In which the fn-gredlents are put together us on the recipe ItselfA housekeeper who Is known for her fluffy break-fast muffins, which are always as light as t!u-proverbial feather, uses sour milk In making them,

but decries the oldttme wuv of using it. Accordingto traditional processes, the soda is mixed withthe sour milk before the flour hi added. This meth-od, says the housewife in question, allows the effer-

vescence to be over before the flour goes In. He-way Is to mix with the sour milk the flour, suit aadsugar and then to add the aoda dissolved in a littlenot water. By this means the entire mass rises.

The last thing before the latter Is turned into the

pans, a beaten egg Is folded In. This Is her recipe:

Two cuprtda of flour, one cupful of sour milk, a

half teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of sugar,

a half teaspoonful of salt and one egg.With all the multitude of helps provided in these

days for the young housewife, experience is stillthe best teacher, and withoutIt a surety of successIs impossible. In the matter of sour milk, for ex-ample—lt Is delicious to cook with If It Is at Justthe right degree of sourness, but only one wisefrom f;imillarltywithItknows when that point hasbeen reached, and no one can glv« the amateur ahnrd and fast rule to follow. That the soda mustbe proportioned to the acidity of the milk is an In-fallible rule, but It leaves much to thr imagination.

WHEN TO KNOW BALSAM.

Bald a veteran of the forests the other day"Why. yes. Iknow bulsam. but Icannot tell you

how to recognise it.'

Here is another Instance

where learning must be had flrst hand. To know-balsam from the other spruces, not only the eye

but the nose must be trained. No doubt number-

less groups on hotel verandas in wilderness re-sorta. such as Maine and the Adirondack*, arestripping the needles from branches of pine, hem-lock and spruce and indulgingmeanwhile in fanciesof fragrant balsam pillows which are later to p,r.fume their '/dens." To know balsam beyond .1doubt one must be familiar, too, with hemlock andthe spruces. Hemlock is easily learned, becauseIts needles are more scanty, the stem bearingthem flatter than that of the spruces. In thespruces the clusters of needles are round, and th.needles have a tendency to turn in. In the balsamthe under side of the clusters of needles is flatand exposes tas stem, while the needle* turn out-ward. The odor of the balsam ts distinctive, butthat must be learned by familiarity and associa-tion with It. The pillows of bulpam have an en-durine fragrance, which e»n always be intensifiedby heat. A few seconds In a warm ovea will .sorevive the perfume that rhe nwm In which thepillow Is used will feel the effects for days after-ward.

A washable pillowIs always the most satisfactoryfor the balsam plUow. Artlinens and quaint figuredchintzes are particularly suited to the purpose.

FALL, STATIONERY.Autumn leaves dyed In glowing hues have al-

ready appeared among the dinner cards, and guld-

AN APPKTI/.ING DISHTomatoen, because sf their pleasant acidity, an*

suited to a great variety of combsaatlOßS. Aa ap-petizing breakfast dish is prepared with etfgs aridth« vegetables. Wash SS many round. appleshaped tomatoes as there are persons to be s,. rv.-0''ut a thin slice from th.* top of each for 1 .overand soop out a sufficient space t.> admit the eg,;.

Put in each v little butter, drop In the unbrokenwhite and yolk, salt and pepper, place a dot ofbutter on the top of the e«g. replace the cover andbake for about twenty minutes, or until the tomntois tender Orated cheese may be sprinkled overthe egg before the cover ts nut on.

There Is no end of delicious stuffings for tomatoesThey may de tilled with rice seasoned with salt.pepper and butter, and a -lash of curry or paprikaIfit ts wanted, with a forcemeat made of choppedmeat flavored with onion Juice and purwley \u0084r withbread crumbs mixed with the tomato pulp and sea-soned to taste. They willneed to b.i\e 111 a mod-erate oven about twenty minutes.

PFRSIAN RICE RECIFEA woman who lived In Persia for flft^n years

Is In despair because the rice which she buys, Inthis country refuses to puff Into the snowy massthat It so readily assumes on Its native shares.She dings to the Persian meth<xl of preparingIt. Aft«r putting It rough several ringings Incold water, to remove all the loose flour on theoutside of the grains, the rice 1m placed In a largequantity of cold water sad put over the fire, it isallowed to boll very hard, until It Is swollen to itsfull size and begins to soften. Then It is turnedInto a colander and cold water la turned oven ituntil It 1.1 dry. Th» last step is to put butter Intoth» bottom of the kettle, turn in the rice and lesuveIt until It in heated through, but not browned:In Persia the entire mass will respond to thistreatment by swelling Into a light, foamy con-sistency. Wh the rice is turned into a dish thebutter goes with it. and permeates every kernel. ,

In Persia no one thinks of throwing away thewat»r in which rice Is cooked. It la used iii thepreparation of tomato sauce. In stewing prunes.apricots and other fruits and for various culinarypurposes.

EMERGENCY CLOSET,

The supply of the bathroom closet la no less Im-portant than is that of the kitchen. Besides itshot water bags, big and little, ammonia, witchhazel and the like, there Should be aromatic spiritsof ammonia, collodion, lime water and sweet oil.a 1 per cent solution of carbolic acid, a box of ab-sorbent cotton and a roll of bandages, With thesethings ready for use. an accident such as a burn,

a cut flng«r or a fainting fit will be easily met andpain will be spared the victim.

The 1 per oent solution of carbolic is useful Inall oases of Injury because of Its cleansing quali-ties. ifa cut is to be treated, the wound shouldfirst be thoroughly cleansed In clear water, rinsedcarefully In the carbolic solution and then paintedwith collodion. The collodion stops the bleeding andserves as a varnish to prevent dirt from entering.

A mixture of lime water and sweet oil. the pro-portions for which are understood by all druggists.Is the best of remedies for a burn. If applied atonce it will "take out the fire" and In most easeswill prevent blistering. Bicarbonate of soda. too.Ifsprinkled on a burn as soon as it is received willprevent pain and blister Some people claim thatbutter is to be preferred to all other remedies forthis purpose, and others cover the place with flourto exclude the air.

One unscarred finger stands as an evidence of acarbolic solution treatment. it was burned withpowder from .1 flashlight lamp from the :irst Jointto the end Of the finger, and so severely th.it thenail ma off. But a it.tnduge kept wet most of thetime for two .lavs in a Iper cent solution of car-bolic rt'stcr>*d the. member to comfort In an in-credibty short tin?.-.

Arora spirits of ammonia Is a household articleIndispensable in 'aniille.; where there are personswith weak hearti or with tendencies to faint, be-cause It facilitates she neart's \u25a0• lon more speedilythun brandy or whiskey, and with I***danger to

\u25a0tome patients. In cases of heart failure or faint-Ing a IvaspoonXul In a bait glas* of water can be£l\el».

SEASONABLE HINTS ON REMOVINGSTAINS A TOMATO EGG BREAK-

FAST DISH.

In every boos* there should be an emergencycloset carefully furnished and promptly replenishedwhen supplies begin to lower. In it should be kept

a cleaning fluid. turpentine, gasolene or benzine.Javelle water, oxalic acid, prepared chat*, chlorideof lime, ammonia, absorbent paper, oho! and thethousand and one things which. If not .— \u25a0'. daily.

are Indispensable when they are wanted.Javeile water Is one of the most useful of the

family supplies, especially at this season. Hand-kerchief^ never c t to hopelessly yellow a* Coring

the s.:m:r. r. when they are \u25a0.:-=\u25a0- ito wipe spiring{:<<\u25a0-< ami bands, but a hath for ten or fifteenminute* in a weak solution of j.iv-'.]>\u25a0 water willrestore them to a clear complexion.

Javelle enter, too, will remove \u25a0 bsttnate stains ofink and iron rest. The stained portion should berubbed in the Sold and then trashed thoroughly.

Javelle water Is the trusted friend of one house-keeper, hi least, who has employed it for years Inher laundering Pillow cases that show a yellowtinge and table linen from which fruit stains havenot bees, removed before washing, and which havecontraband markings and spots, all come forthfrom the rinsing water to which Javelle water baabeen added an spotless as when they were new.The liquidIs used in the proportion of 3 half ten-cupful to a tub! of clear water. After soakingfor fifteen or twenty minutes they are rinsed inclear water and hung In the sun.

TO TAKE OUT INK STAINS.Ink will also yield to oxalic acid and steam and

to salts and lemon, Ifoxalic acid is employed, ru!>the spot with a slick or cork which has been wetIn the \u25a0.old and hoi.] It at once over a steamingspout which is ready for the purpose. Unless a.ltraces of the add are removed by thorough wash-Ing, a weak spot will result from th" treatment.

Grass stains in the children's garments are amon-jthe mire Indications of the outing season. Unlesssuch blemishes are removed before going to thelaundry It is a difficult mutter to eradicate them.A soaking In alcohol and subsequent rubbing withthe fingers Is a simple cure 1: promptly applied.

FOR SUMMER COTTAGERS.All summer cottagers have had the experience

of a refractory lamp which persists in smoking inspite of all effort! of reform. Sometimes the evilcan be cured by soaking the wick In strong vinegarand drying it thoroughly before returning it to thelamp. Soap rubbed on a complaining door hingewill silence its nerve wearing creak.

FOR THE noi'SEWIFE.

TO RESTORE LOST BEAUTY.Many advantages are claimed by lime. Caroline,

face specialist. No. 219 Slxth-ave.. near Four-teenth-Bt., for her Ne Plus Ultra Face Beautiflerand other specialties. A woman who uses theface beautlfler during the day. It is said, and aretiring cream at night, will remove all imper-fections in the skin, such as tan, freckles, liverspots, blackheads, pimples and wrinkles. Mme.Caroline is sole agent for the Royal Windsor GrayHair Restorer (made in France).

THEY GIVE BABIES SOLID FOOD.The average mother in easy circumstances will

smile rather derisively on hearing that France hasa law making it a crime to give solid food to anychild under one year old. Yet every tenement houseworker, visitingnurse. Health Department officer or

Settlement resident can testify that the custom offeeding solid food to toothless infants Is wcilnighuniversal In the slum tenements. France, with her

low birth rate, has four.d that «he cannot spare thetwenty thousand babies that were dying everyyear before the State took them under its care.The American waste of child life amounts to

three hundred thousand annually under five years,the proportion of deaths being greatest among theforeign population, where the high birth rate isbalanced by a heavy death rate. Beer, tea, coffee.condensed milk, watermelon, green corn and porkrind are among the "dainties" handed out to theunfortunate tenement house infant.

"My baby sit up at table and eat everything allsame as grown up, now." said one young foreignmother, proudly, displaying her saffron colored one-year-old to the pitying eyes of the superintendentor a day nurnerx.

plants may be collected in the summer and not bepressed until it Is convenient. Even the sun driedproducts picked up on the seashore and carried

home will respond to a «alt bath and unfold theirtangled and meaningless masses into delicate trace-

ries of pretty green, brown and red hues. Seaweedscan be gathered at all seasons of the year, but areat their best in the summer and early autumn.

Some of them float free of anchorage in the oceanand others are attached to rocks and other station-ary objects by parts which are known as "hold-fasts" and look like roots, but furnish no nutriment

to the plant.In order to make the specimens of value either

as displays of nature's handiwork, or as motifs for

china and other decoration, they must be mounted.Stiff cards are excellent for the purpose. They canbe white or tinted, as taste dictates. With the

cards and seaweeds and a couple of deep basins

of salt water one Is ready to begin work. A pair

of tweezers with which to pick up the delicate

structures willbe found useful. Float a small massof specimens in one of the basins. Then, with the

tweezer.", as it separates into It* parts, pick out asingle plant and wash It free from all sand andimpurities In the second basin. When this is done,

plunge one of the cards under the water and bring

Itdirectly beneath the cleansed specimen. Holding

the card at a sharp angle, arrange the base of thespecimen in the desired position with a camel's hairbrush, needle or wooden toothpick. This work must

be done under water. When the delicate filamentsare spread out to the best advantage, withdraw thecard a little vlay from the water and observe theresult. The seaweed will adhere without any diffi-culty As the arrangement progresses the cardIs gradually lifted from the water until every por-tion Is complete. It a change in the arrangementIs desirable, plunge the card Into the water care-fully and make the alterations.

When the work is finished the midrib should havea natural shape and from it the filaments shouldbranch on either side. Drain off all the waterpossible and cover the mounts with white cottoncloth to prevent the seaweeds from adhering toanything else. When all the mounts are ready,press them under heavy weights for several hours,

Ifthe effort has been painstaking, beautiful souve-nirs will result.

SMALL ECONOMIES! OF HEX."One always hears." said the matron at the mend-

Ing room of the C. O. S. laundry, "of the freedomof men with their change pockets: of how muchmore freely they spend for small things thanwomen, and of how they despise the petty econo-mies of women. But really, you know, men whohave an arrangement here to have their laundrymended willsend back pajamas to be mended whenthey are so bad that If they were sent In here forcharity wo would throw them away." _.

This Is nearly always necessary with tall objects

when a fixed focus camera without a rising frontor a swing back is employed. If.however, no placeexcept the ground In available for the camera, thepicture will be greatly Improved, although consider-ably reduced In size, by cutting away from two-

thirds to three-fourths of the foreground beforemounting the print. Inno case should the camerabe above the centre of the height of a building ortower. The picture Improves the nearer the cameraIs brought to the height of the •*«\u25a0• provided, ofcourse, the whole Of the structure Is Included.

Nest In Importance to the position of the camerawith regard to perspective and height Is It* rela-

tion to light and shadow. A picture In whicheverything seen Is brightly lighted la rarely pleas-

ing, and one li vhich the whole view Is in shadowis even less attractive. Flatness in a picture is

due to want of contrast; that la. to the absence

of high lights In a shadow picture, or to that of

shadows in one made from a position directly be-

tween the source of light and the object Innear-ly all satisfactory photographs, Including groups

and portraits, there Is a good blending of light

and shade In considerable masses. A photographmottled all over with shadows and flecks of lightIn nearly equal proportions Is almost as objec-tionable as one tnat Is light or shade tint. Ihemore nearly the masses of shadow assume roughtriangular forms the better the picture; and tnelarger the triangles, so one eltner of light orshadow does not exceed half to two-thirds of thearea of the plate, the more pleasing the effect.This is limited, of course, to buildings and land-scapes. In taking a building it la best to havethe front lighted and the end In shadow. Theperspective, of course, If the camera Is placed assuggested, makes each side a triangle more orl«s» regular and complete, according to the style

of the architecture.Light and shade In a picture are not wholly

dependent upon sunshine and shadow. Dark ob-jects serve me same purpose as shadows. A treein foliage Is always dark. A muss of foliage, there-fore. is as good—often even better

—In balancing a

landscape tnan an actual shady side to some ob-ject; and a picture with a high, green hill or amuss of foliage sloping down from one cornerto a point at or beyond the middle Is alwayspicturesque. Water and sky are nearly alwaysvery liglit, and when they furnish reversed tri-angles make the picture complete. On the beacha uark building, a pile of rocks or wreckage, oreven a group of people near enough the cameraalmost to fill one end of the plate, greatly en-hances the beauty of the picture. If a group ofpeople In utilized lor the purpose, care snuuld beexercised to have them in dark clothing. Whiteattire defeats the principal purpose of utilizing agroup in such a case.

livery rule has some exceptions, and the rulesof photography have theirs, but in a series ofbrief hints like these it la best to state the ruleonly. Two exceptions to the rile regarding theheight of the camera ought, however, to be made.The best view of a crowd can be secured from aposition overlooking it. A portrait should not bemade with the camera very much below the chinof the subject. The level of the middle of thebody greatly exaggerates the height of a person.

THE RAG CARPET MAKERS.Tickets admitting women to the benefits of the

Charity Organization Society workrooms, at No. 516West Twenty-elghth'-st.. may be bought at theCharity Organization Society's headquarters. No.105 East Twenty-second-st. The well known ragcarpeting made by the .society may be ordered ateither place.

NO. la*—FANCY BLOUSE CLOSING AT CEN-

TRE BACK; NO. 3.S>v-THR.Y:E PIECE SKIRTWITH TUCKED CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.

The quantity of material required for the mediumsize is 11 yards 21 inches wide. 10 yards Zl inches,'

wide. s>, yards \u25a0 inches wide, or 6'» yards « inch-*'wide! with *i yard of tucking or lace for yoke; to

cut the wal.-t alone 3 yards 21 inches wide. ->4

rani* 27 Inch-* wide. 24 yards X Inches wide. ;i41% yards 44 Inches wide, with \ yard of allovertucking or lace tor yoke; to cut the skirt alone 10«-4yards 21 Inches wide. 8 yards 27 Inches wide. «*yards 32 Inches wide, or **£*+U inches wide.

The waist pattern. No. 3.D». Is cut in sizes for a32. 34 38 33 and »<• Inch bust measure.

The skirt pattern. No. 3.890 Is cut in Macs for a22 "4 "« •8 and 30 Inch waist measure.

Each" pattern willbe sent to any address on re-ceipt of 10 cents. Please give number and bust andwaist measure distinctly. Address Pattern Depart-ment New-York Tribune. IfIna hurry for pat-tern. Bend an extra two cent stamp, and we willmall by letter postage in sealed envelope.

\u25a0ar

best towels. The style of lettering is a matter en-tirely of individual taste, but the plainer th-» 'let-

~

ters the better Just bow Both block and scriptletters are In favor. For the monogram or'inter-laced Initial* the letters should not rrea.-mre morethan two and a l%ilf or three inches. Th«* papier-mache foundations have r>e~n too often tried andfound wanting to be relied upon by even the ama-teur needlewoman. The work done over them 13never as neat as when over a stamped. outline. andthey do not launder well. :' .'.'":

"It is essential that even more care should betaken in the fillingof th.- letters than in the cov-ering, if they are to present a smooth appearanceand to stand out well when finished, I*? plaindarning cotton and fill lengthwise of the letter.Fill Just as much) as possible, and directly in th*centre of the MMMdoutline. After the founda-tion has been carefully made, work the letters In\u25a0white cotton. No. "-10.' If"silk is preferred, usaembroidery silk, letter *F.

"For toilet use the fringed towel la entirely outof fashion, but as a cover for the aide table or thebuffet there are ma<nirtce".t towels of mummycloth or Irish linen with long, handmade fringe.These towels also show an elaborate- embroidereddesign done in white or cream wash silk. Thefringe should be four times the length of the depthof knotting; for example, if th.- knots are twoInches deep, the fringe hanging from them must t-;,'eight inches long."

A serviceable.- large towel of mummy clothfinished with a two inch hemstitched hem and em-broidered In m design worked in dark red «msilk. The same design may be eiabroiderec Inwhite or royal blue. An insertion of Mext<^uidrawn work done in heavy linen on one end only* isa favorite' finish for plain huckaback to*els.Bird's-eye -linen towels are also decorated on.mamend only. For bird's-eye linen, a combination ofdrawn work and solid embroidery worked Inr creamwhite wash silk is fitting.

These elaborately embroidered towels are In-deed beautiful, and should have a place In everywell stocked linen closet; but. after all. there isnothing more fittingly appropriate for its use thana tin*, plain huckaback towel with hemstitch-**hem.»nd embroidered initials.

'THE DECLISE OF THE APR'

From The Woman's Home Companion for Au^ist.It is about forty years since the popularity at

the apr"iibegan to wane. At that time no wom-an's wardrobe was complete without an assortmentof aprons for ail strts of occasions. A black silkapron was the acme of elegance and propriety, andany nondescript gown could, by the addition of theblack silk apron, trimmed with a few rows of blackvelvet ribbon, be dlguined and adorned to the attarsatisfaction of the wearer.,An apron had rather .1 wide' field of usefulness

when you consider that it rot- only preserved andembellished a new gown, but.it also concealed thedefect*, and added dignity to an old one. An apronwas always #s regie. Th* best -tress was keptclean by its use. and the daintiness of It represent-ed all th«? feminine traits.,- It was a regular bannerof the home. To its strings the children were tied."t'l*d to his mother's apron strings!" Contemptu-ous expression of subordination: And yet so muchsentiment attached to it! Whoever was tied to Msmother's apron strings was comparatively safe-was in his mothers lead. Mother's apron! Thebaby was rolled in It. Childish tears were driedwith it The little boys used its strings for rein%and the little girls played princess and trailed Itsample folds behind them, real ladies in waiting toan Imaginary queen.

Those were ante-new woman lavs. Knittingandneedlework were feminine occupations. It wasprevious to th*day of higher education for women.It may sound far fetched to say that home senti-ment waned with the decline of the apron. Thelatter may not have been the cause, but it cer-tainly kept pace with tt. Ihave the written state-ment of a man to th? effect that a snow wattsapron tied neatly about a trim waist had power toattack the masculine heri-t at Its most vulnerablepoint. After that, say there is no sentiment aboutan apron! But man cherishes sentiment aboutthings of which the feminine mind has as concep-tion, and his heart has been many times ensnaredIn the muslin bow that tied at the back of hissweetheart's waist this banner of the home. Thelast was about the man of a generation ago. :But ."'the tr.an or vo-day had the same sentiment— latent;

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