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This edition written and researched by Mara Vorhees Amy C Balfour, Paula Hardy, Caroline Sieg AMAZING ROAD TRIPS BEST TRIPS NEW ENGLAND’S 32 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: new england’s best trips - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/new-englands-best-trips...Cable Car/ Funicular Transport US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy State Hwy Reservation

This edition written and researched by

Mara Vorhees Amy C Balfour, Paula Hardy, Caroline Sieg

AmAzing RoAd TRips

best tripsnew england’s

32

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: new england’s best trips - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/new-englands-best-trips...Cable Car/ Funicular Transport US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy State Hwy Reservation

symbols in this book

map legend

ContentS

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

5 Eating

Family

History & Culture

Food & Drink

Outdoors

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

% Telephone Number

h Opening Hours

p Parking

n Nonsmoking

a Air-Conditioning

i Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Access

v Vegetarian Selection

s Swimming Pool

E English-Language Menu

c Family-Friendly

# Pet-Friendly

plan your trip

Welcome to new england................ 7

new england Classic trips.............. 8

new england Highlights..................12

If You Like... ................................... 22

need to Know...................................24

City Guide........................................ 26

on the road

MASSACHuSettS............29

1 Coastal new england.........6–8 Days 33

2 Pilgrim trail........................4–5 Days 43

3 Cape Cod & the Islands............ 5–7 Days 51

4 Around Cape Ann.........................2–3 Days 61

5 Berkshire Back Roads.....................2–3 Days 69

6 Mohawk trail........................2–3 Days 77

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

UndergroundTrain Station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/Funicular

Transport

US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy

State Hwy

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

2

#9

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Route Markers

[Ù97

VUÓ5

Trips

Parking

1

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road44

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Vermontp157

Massachusettsp29

NewHampshire

p215

Connecticut &Rhode Island

p91

Mainep273

ContentS

ConneCtICut & RHoDe ISLAnD..................91

7 Rhode Island: east Bay.................3–4 Days 95

8 Rhode Island: Coastal Culture......... 4 Days 103

9 Quiet Corner........................ 3 Days 111

a Connecticut Wine trail.................. 5 Days 119

b Lower River Valley............... 4 Days 127

c Litchfield Hills Loop........................... 5 Days 135

d Fall Foliage tour........................ 5–7 Days 143

VeRMont........................157

e Vermont’s Spine: Route 100..............3–4 Days 161

f Cider Season Sampler...3–4 Days 171

g Vermont Back-Roads Ramble.......3–4 Days 179

3

Page 4: new england’s best trips - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/new-englands-best-trips...Cable Car/ Funicular Transport US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy State Hwy Reservation

Contents cont.

h Robert Frost Country.................. 1–2 Days 187

i Lake Champlain Byway....................2–3 Days 195

j Southern Vermont Loop.......................2–3 Days 203

neW HAMPSHIRe...........215

k Ivy League tour............................ 5 Days 219

l Woodland Heritage trail............ 2 Days 229

m White Mountains Loop........................... 3 Days 237

n Connecticut River Byway........................ 4 Days 245

o Lake Winnipesaukee......... 2 Days 255

p Monadnock Villages..................... 2 Days 263

MAIne.............................273

q Maritime Maine......................... 5 Days 277

r Acadia Byway........................ 3 Days 287

s old Canada Road........................... 2 Days 297

t Maine Highlands.................. 3 Days 305

u Lakes tour............................ 2 Days 313

v Mainely Art.............................. 3 Days 321

w Alpine escapes..................... 2 Days 329

new england driving guide................338

4

Page 5: new england’s best trips - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/new-englands-best-trips...Cable Car/ Funicular Transport US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy State Hwy Reservation

(www.sailmainecoast.com),

which are multiday

treks on wind-powered

schooners. A map of Maine’s

coast, with all of its

lighthouses, spreads

across the oor of the

Penobscot Bay Regional

Chamber of Commerce

(%207-596-0376; www.

mainedreamvacation.com;

1 Park Dr; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

beside Rockland Harbor.

Ask for the list that

identi es the lighthouses

on the map. The chamber

of commerce shares a

roof with the Maine

Lighthouse Museum

(www.mainelighthousemuseum.

org; 1 Park Dr; adult/child under

12yr $5/free; h9am-5pm

Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Jun-

Oct, closed Sun-Tue Nov-May),

which exhibits vintage

Fresnel lenses, foghorns,

marine instruments and

ship models. For information about

the Farnsworth Art

Museum, see p 326 .

The Drive » Follow Main St/

US 1 north just over 1 mile from

downtown to Waldo Ave. Turn

right and drive half a mile. Turn

right onto Samoset Rd, following

it to a small parking lot.

9 Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse Feeling adventurous?

Tackle the rugged stone

breakwater that stretches

almost 1 mile into

Rockland Harbor from

Jameson Point at the

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

RA

ND

Y D

UC

HA

INE

/AL

AM

Y ©

TH

OM

AS

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HC

UT/G

ET

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IMA

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JEF

F GR

EE

NB

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G/A

LA

MY

©

283

MAIN

E 26

MARITIM

E MAIN

E

282

WHY THIS IS A CLASSIC TRIPAMY C BALFOUR,

AUTHOR

There’s a certain thrill in joining the

crowds at the iconic spots along the

coast. But it’s also fun to follow up

on unexpected recommendations.

In Brunswick I was directed to a tiny

convenience store, Libby’s Market

(42 Jordan Ave; lobster rolls $9-18), a few

turns from the main drag. I sat at a

picnic table by the parking lot and

ate what was surely the perfect

lobster roll, a toasted bun with

chunks of lobster and the right hint

of mayo. Welcoming service, too. It

was a great nd.

Top: Maine Maritime Museum

Left: Red’s lobster shack, Wiscasset

Right: Portland Head Light

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NEWHAMPSHIRE

NEWYORK

MASSACHUSETTS

CONNECTICUT

ATLANTIC OCEAN

NantucketSound

CascoBay

RhodeIslandSound

CapeCod Bay

ConnecticutRiver

Hud

sonRi ve r

Long IslandSound

LakeWinnipesaukee

LakeCandlewoo

QuabbinReservoir

Cape CodNationalSeashore

Green MountainNational Forest Co

nnecticut R

iver

OctoberMountain(1962ft)

Wilmington

Provincetown

Nantucket

Woodstock

LakeGeorge

GreatBarrington

Sherman

Pittsford

Sandwich

Kittery

Concord

Williamstown

Manchester

Plymouth

BrattleboroBennington

Plymouth

Hampton

Newport

Hanover

Norwich

NewLondon

NewHaven

Bridgeport

New York

Stamford

Portland

Manchester

Rutland

Gloucester

Pittsfield

Northampton

Springfield

HyannisNewBedford

Newport

Manchester

Waterbury

MarbleheadAlbany

Providence

Hartford

Concord

Boston

App

alac

hian

Trail

0100 km

050 miles#e

RHODEISLAND

1 Coastal New England The

ultimate coastal drive connects

fishing villages, trading ports

and naval centers. 6–8 DAYS

3 Cape Cod & the IslandsSlow, meandering route with

beaches, oysters and art. 5–7 DAYS13 Fall Foliage Tour

The ultimate fall foliage trip,

featuring dappled trails and

awesome views. 5–7 DAYS

27 Acadia Byway Swoop up Cadillac Mountain,

then roll past cliffs on Mt

Desert Island. 3 DAYS

20 Ivy League Tour History,

architecture and traditions are

highlights during tours of New

England’s Ivies. 5 DAYS

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R

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QUEBEC

RUNSWICK

VERMONT

MAINE

NEWYORK

PassamaquoddyBay

PenobscotBay

StLawrenceRiver

LakeChamplain

MooseheadLake

West GrandLake

MooselookmegunticLake

KennebecRiver

SebagoLake

LacSt-Francois

AdirondackPark

AcadiaNationalPark

BaxterState Park

WhiteMountain

National Forest

Mt Katahdin(5267ft)

Mt Washington

Lincoln

Lubec

Calais

Morrisville

LakePlacid

Stowe

NorthConway Brunswick

Rockland

St Stephen

Camden

Belfast

Pittsfield

Lincoln

Millinocket

Bar Harbor

Middlebury

SaranacLake

Berlin

Bangor

SherbrookeMontréal

Drummondville

Victoriaville

St Albans

BurlingtonWaterville

Montpe r

Augusta

Québec City

Fredericton

Littleton

Ap

palach

ian Trail

Long

Trail

C A N A D A

##########

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23 Connecticut River BywayFollow the river past farms,

museums, college towns and a

chocolate shop. 4 DAYS

26 Maritime MaineLighthouses, lobster shacks,

maritime museums and early

sunrises. 5 DAYS

14 Vermont’s Spine: Route 100 Cross the state from

south to north along the Green

Mountains. 3–4 DAYS

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######̂̂̂̂̂̂#################################################

RRtterarkKaKaKaaKaaaKatahdintahtaaaa

FrederictoerictoderictototFredeFredeFreederictotonnnnn

Maritime Maine

NEW ENGLAND

MA

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AN

D3 Cape Cod & the Islands Don’t miss charming Brant Point Lighthouse as the ferry pulls into Nantucket harbor.

q Maritime Maine Meander down to Rockland’s thriving waterfront.

r Acadia Byway Slip on your shades and take a sunset drive to the summit of Cadillac Mountain.

9

WHAT IS A CLASSIC TRIP? All the trips in this book show you the best of New England, but we’ve chosen eight as our all-time favorites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic sights, the top activities and the unique New England experiences. Turn the page to see the map, and look out for the Classic Trip stamp throughout the book.

NEW ENGLAND

3

q

rTE

TR

A IM

AG

ES

/CO

RB

IS ©

Maritime Maine

5 DAYS 285 MILES / 459KM

GREAT FOR…

GBJ

BEST TIME TO GO Summer is great, but you’ll shake the crowds in September and October.

I ESSENTIAL PHOTO

Stand on the rocks for a photo of Pemaquid lighthouse.

K BEST FOR HISTORY

Exhibits on seafaring are captivating at the Maine Maritime Museum.

26 US 1 between Kittery and Calais is a route meant for lingering: fog-wrapped lighthouses, oceanfront picnic tables, seafaring artifacts in dusty museums, and one sprawling outdoors store.

Maine Breathe in the salt air and embrace coastal culture

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Ogunquit

Kittery

Camden

##11

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Cape ElizabethSnap photos of the lighthouse and wander past WWII bunkers

42 miles

FreeportSalute the giant boot, then find the right gear for adventuring

63 milesQuoddy Head State Park Crashing waves, an eerie foghorn and a lonely lighthouse

265 miles

BathSeafaring artifacts are

a link to Maine’s maritime past

78 miles

127 miles

Rockland Breakwater LighthouseA granite walkway leads to the distant beacon

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

277276

Look out for the Classic Trips stamp on our favorite routes in this book.

1 Coastal new england.........6–8 Days 33

3 Cape Cod & the Islands............ 5–7 Days 51

d Fall Foliage tour........................ 5–7 Days 143

e Vermont’s Spine: Route 100..............3–4 Days 161

k Ivy League tour............................ 5 Days 219

n Connecticut River Byway........................ 4 Days 245

q Maritime Maine......................... 5 Days 277

r Acadia Byway........................ 3 Days 287

5

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351

Caroline Sieg My relationship with New England began when I briefly lived in Boston. Subsequent trips to the region yielded countless hikes in the Green Mountains, excessive beer and cheese tasting in Vermont, and a profound obsession with blueberry pie and apple-cider doughnuts. I also believe that one of the best ways to embrace the area is to explore its ubiquitous lakes and waterways by boat. These days, I visit New England as often as I can.

My Favorite Trip g Vermont Back-Roads Ramble for the quirky puppet museum, and my favorite beer, brewed up on a hill well off the beaten track.

Paula Hardy As I’m the British half of an American-British couple, I spend a lot of time hopping across the pond, torn between the bright lights of London town and Boston, where weekending in the New England countryside is a near-weekly activity. Research for this book, though, took me way off the beaten path into Connecticut’s sugar shacks, dairy barns and wine-tasting rooms, and Rhode Island’s tiny East Bay villages, where lasting memories of Allie’s doughnuts aren’t easily forgotten.

My Favorite Trip a Connecticut Wine Trail for the Philip Johnson Glass House, where I’d very much like to live.

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Our StOryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers

Read more about Mara Vorhees at: lonelyplanet.com/members/mvorhees

Mara Vorhees I’m not a native New Englander, but I can bang a U-ey with the best of them. I’m the coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s New England and sole author of Lonely Planet’s Boston City Guide. When not exploring the region’s highways and byways, I live in a pink house in Somerville, MA, with my husband, two kiddies and two kitties. You can follow my adventures online at www.maravorhees.com.

My Favorite Trip 3 Cape Cod & the Islands for seaside bike trails, secluded swaths of sand and oysters on the half shell.

Read more about Amy C Balfour at: lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

Amy C Balfour I fell for the White Mountains during a hut-to-hike 12 years ago when I tromped between Greenleaf and Galehead. Since then I’ve returned to New Hampshire for more hiking, and expanded my horizons to Maine for shopping and lobster-roll testing. On this trip, south of Rangeley, ME, I flipped when I saw my first moose in the wild. I’m sure the moose had a good laugh.

My Favorite Trip r Acadia Byway for its multisport appeal and well-designed roads that complement the surrounding beauty.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9832nd edition – Feb 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 811 1© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely

Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

More Writers

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd