natural dyeing using medicinal herbs ...jrps.in/uploads/thesis/modified pooja final presention...

AN ECO-FRIENDLY NATURAL DYEING ON WOOL

FABRIC BY USING MEDICINAL HERBS

KALANCHOE-PINNATA & SIDA-CORDIFOLIA

Presented by

Ms. Pooja Kumari

(M.Tech scholar in fashion technology)

B.P.S. Mahila Vishwavidyalaya , Khanpur Kalan, Sonipat (Haryana)

© INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL FOR RESEARCH PUBLICATION & SEMINAR

• Aim of the present study was to determine the best

dyeing conditions on wool fabric for the selected

plants “kalanchoe pinnata” and “sida cordifolia”. To

achieve the goal, some experiments were carried out

with different dyeing conditions.


• Natural dyes are non-substantive colouring compound.

• It contains chromophore as well as auxochrome groups.

Chomophore group has capacity to absorb certain portion

of visible light and attributes colour to dye molecule.

Auxochrome groups provide solubility, intensity and

affinity to the dye molecule and responsible in dye fibre

interaction or reaction if any.

• Natural dyes are renewable, eco-friendly and sustainable

in nature.

• Derived from the natural source like plants ,animals,

minerals etc.

• Dyes were extracted from leaves part via aqueous

extraction method.

A) Natural dyes


And ,dyes are applied on the textile by the helps of mordants.

2) S.cordifolia dye

1) K. pinnata dye


• Mordants are fixing agent, which are work as a

intermediater between the fabric and dye.

• And ,used to set dyes on fabric by forming a coordination

complex with the dye.

• it hold the fast during washing

• It can be either acidic or alkaline.

B) Mordants


The type of mordant used changes the shade obtained and

also affects the fastness property of the dye. Types of

mordants are following:-

C) Types of mordants

Metallic mordants

Brightening mordants

Dulling mordants

Tannins mordants

Oil mordants

Natural mordants

Chemical mordants © INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL FOR

RESEARCH PUBLICATION & SEMINAR

Aluminum sulfate Ferrous sulfate Copper sulfate

Orange peel powder Harda powder Dry goose berry powder

In this research three chemical and three natural mordants

were used.

Natural mordants

Chemical mordants


The three methods used for mordanting are:

In this research these three mordanting methods were

followed.

D) Mordanting method

Pre-mordanting (on chrome)

Meta-mordanting (meta chrome)

Post-mordanting (after chrome)


1) To study the dyeing ability of two different kind of

medicinal plants k.pinnata and s.cordifolia that can be

easily found in india(in tropical and sub-tropical area).

2) To investigate the effect of the mordant, pH and the

use of fibres types for shade and colour development.

3 )To conduct experiments for evaluation dyeing

properties, including the colour fastness to washing,

colour fastness to light, rubbing fastness in term of dry

and wet state and computer colour matching or colour

strength.

4) To obtained optimized dyeing condition in term of dye

and mordant concentration, ph range, temperature,

time and M: L Ratio.

5) To use the regenerated source as the dyeing and

produce eco-friendly dyed fabric

E) Objectives


The natural dyeing should be carried out with the

optimum recipes using as less chemical as possible

during the dyeing process to reduce the pollutant

produced and the harmful effect to the environment.

Moreover, the dyestuffs that extracted without

chemical used could act as fertiliser after composting

in order to reduce the wastage produced and produce

an organic fertiliser.

F) Environmental concerns


• This chapter aims to provide a comprehensive review of

the past study performed on herb k. pinnta and s.

cordifolia.

• Both these herbs k.pinnata and s. cordifolia have been

using in medicinal field due its various effective

pharmaceuticals properties.

• It cures different kind of body infection, wounds and skin

diseases, etc.

• Therefore all the relavent literature found on k.pinnta and

s.cordifolia has been dicussed in following section.


• Botanical Name: - Bryophyllum pinnatum

• Family Name:- Crussulaceae

• Sanskrit Name: - Pashanabheda, parn beej, hemsagar.

• Hindi Name:- Patharchur.

• Bengali:- koppat, patharkuchi.

• Telugu:- Ranapala

• Tamil:- Runa kalli

Comon Names: Cathedral Bells, Air Plant , Life Plant,

Miracle Leaf, Goethe Plant and Katakataka. Also called

“Wonder of the World” in the English speaking

Caribbean.’Oliwa Ka Kahakai (Hawai'i), Mother Of

Thousands, Herbe Mal Tete (Dominica) Never Dead,

Parvu, Hoja Del Aire (Bolivia)

Herb description of k.p


• Botanical Name: - S.cordifolia

• Hindi - Kungyi

• English - Country mallow

• Sanskrit – Bala

• inhala:bala,babila.

• Tamil - Mayir-manikham,thuththi.

• Bengali - Brela

• Guajarati - Junglimethi

• Malayalam - Velluram

• Punjab - Simak

• maharastra – Chikana

• Kannada-hetthuti-gida.

Herb description of s.c


• Herbal Tonic.

• Neuro-pharmacological activities.

• Antihypertensive activity.

• Analgesic.

• Anti-inflammatory.

• Insecticidal.

• Wound Healing activity.

• Anti microbial.

• Uterine Contractility.

• Neurosedative/muscle relaxant.

• Fungi toxic.

• Anti carcinogenic.

• Anti ulcer.

• Anti depressant.

• Anti oxidant.

• Anti diabetic.

Pharmacological Activities of herb K.p


(2-phenyl-1,4-benzopyrone)

Chemical Structure of K.p


• Central Nerves System depressant.

• Fat loss.

• Analgesic and anti-inflammatory.

• Hypertensive.

• Hepatoprotective.

• Anti microbial activity.

• Wound healing activity.

• Anti –oxidant activity.

• Adaptogenic activity.

• Anti Parkinson’s disease.

Pharmacological Activities of herb S.C


3-[2-[Decahydro-6-hydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-5,8a-dimethyl-2-methylene-1-napthalenyl]ethylidene]dihydro-4-hydroxy-2(3H)-furanone (yellowish colour), aromatic flavour.

And no literature found regarding colouring properties on textiles.

Chemical Structure of S.C


a) Herbs collection: - k.pinnata and s.cordifolia herbs were

collected from campus of Bhagat Phool Singh Mahila

University, Sonepat, Haryana.

b) Wool fabric: - 100% wool fabric was procured from local

market of sonepat.

c) Mordants: - Dry goose berry powder, harda powder and

orange peel powder were used as natural mordants and

alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were used as

chemical mordants

Materials


Fresh leaves of herbs (Kalanchoe-pinnata)

Wash with distilled water

Grind them and boiled with water

Filtration

Remaining colouring substrate is ready for use as colouring agent

Dye extraction via aqueous extraction method

Dry leaves of herbs (Sida-cordifolia)

Methods


• Fresh leaves – 200 gpl

• Boiling time – 50 min

• Boiling temp. _ 900C

• M: L: R _ 1:5

• Leaves dried for - 14 hours

• Dried leaves - 20 gpl

• Boiling time - 45 min

• Boiling temp. - 800C

Optimized extraction conditions of s.c

Optimized extraction conditions of k.p


• Dyeing conditions were carried out by optimizing the dye

concentration, time, pH, temperature, mordant,

concentrations, and MLR, etc.

Optimization of dyeing condition


• Kalanchoe-pinnata:-:20% owf • Mordant

(in case of any synthetic mordant such as Alum, Copper Sulphate or Ferrous Sulphate) :20% owf

(in case of any natural mordant such as Dry Goose Berry, Harda or Orange Peel powders) : 25% owf

• Mordanting Procedure : Pre, Meta, Post • MLR: 1: 30 • pH of the dye bath: 5 - 6.5 • Temperature of dyeing: 90 °C • Time of dyeing : 1 hr

After dyeing , dyed samples washed by using non-ionic

soaping at 70 °C for 30minutes.

Optimized Dyeing recipe for k.p


• Sida-cordifolia:-:10% owf • Mordant

(in case of any synthetic mordant such as Alum, Copper Sulphate or Ferrous Sulphate) :20% owf

(in case of any natural mordant such as Dry Goose Berry, Harda or Orange Peel powders) : 25% owf

• Mordanting Procedure : Pre, Meta, Post • MLR: 1: 40 • pH of the dye bath: 5 - 6.5 • Temperature of dyeing: 95 °C • Time of dyeing : 1 hr

After dyeing , dyed samples washed by using non-ionic

soaping at 70 °C for 30minutes.

Optimized Dyeing recipe for s.c


• Dyeing was performed on water shaker bath machine as

shown in Figure at 65 rpm speed in borosil conical flask.

Dye applying method

Figure Water bath shaker machine Figure grey scale


• Mordants bind to dyes and to fibers

How Dyes Attach to Fibers


• This method is intended for determining the resistance of

the colour of material to the action of a standard

artificial light source. The xenon lamp has an emission

wavelength profile close to daylight as per AATCC 16 test

standard.

ITESTING MACHINES USED - Digital light fastness tester for

light fastness as shown in Figure .

• Exposure time 40 hrs as per AATCC 16 standard.

• The fastness rating goes step-wise from:

Testing and its method

a) Light fastness test


Grade Degree of Fading Light Fastness Type

8 No fading Outstanding

7 Very slight fading Excellent

6 Slight fading Very good

5 Moderate fading Good

4 Appreciable fading Moderate

3 Significant fading Fair

2 Extensive fading Poor

1 Very extensive fading Very poor

Figure : Light fastness machine


• The resistance of a material to change in any of its colour

characteristics, when subjected to washing is called colour

fastness to washing.

• WASH FASTNESS TESTER: - Wash fastness tester is used for

determining colour fastness of textile material to washing as

shown in Figure .

• WASHING PROCEDURE: - 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured

fabric is taken and is sandwitched between two adjacent

fabrics and stitched, the sample and the adjacent fabric are

washed together as per AATCC 61 test standard.

M: L: R - 1:30

Specimen size - 10 x 4 cm

Washing severity - mild washing

b) Wash fastness test


Detergent - 5 gpl

Time - 30 min

Temp - 40 0C

Still ball - no

Grey scale - for assessing change of colour.

Figure : Wash fastness machine

After soaping treatment, specimen, rinse twice in cold water

and then in running cold water under a tap. Squeeze it and air

dry at a temperture not exceeding 60°C. The change in colour

and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales as per

AATCC 61 test standard.


• This method is intended for determining the transfer of

colour and the behaviour of the surface of a fabric on

rubbing with an undyed wool felt using crockmeter tester as

shown in .

• NO. OF RUBBING CYCLES – 10 (as per AATCC 8 test

standard )

• FABRIC TESTS CONDITION – I ) dry state ii ) wet state.

Figure : Rubbing fastness tester

• The rubbing (crockmeter) fastness was ratted from 1 to 5.

Rating 1 shows very poor rubbing fastness where as

maximum rating 5 showes excellent rubbing fastness.

c) Rubbing fastness test


• Computer colour matching (CCM) is the instrument which

measure the colour attributes and predict the dyeing recipes

using the spectrophotometer.

THE BASIC THREE THINGS ARE IMPORTANT IN CCMS :-

1. Colour measurement instrument (spectrophotometers).

2. Reflectance (R %) from a mixture of dyes or pigments applied

in a specific way.

3. Optical model of colour vision to closeness of the colour

matching (CIE L*a*b).

d) Computer colour matching system (CCM)

CIELAB coordinate system © INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL FOR RESEARCH PUBLICATION & SEMINAR

Figure : Computer colour matching system

• AATCC test method 110, this procedure measure the

“whiteness of textiles,” by instrumentally measuring

and calculating whiteness and tint of fabrics.

•

• AATCC test method 173, “CMC: calculation of small

colour differences for acceptability,” describes how to

calculate and use the de cmc colour difference scale.

•

• AATCC test method 182, “relative colour strength of

dyes in solution,” describes determination of colour

strength of a dye spectrophotometrically by comparing

its transmission measurements to those of a reference

dye.

© INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL FOR


• L signifies lightness (L+ -- more lighter, L- -- more

darker)

• a signifies redder or greener (a+ -- redder, a- --

greener )

• b signifies bluer or yellower (b+ -- yellower, b- -- bluer)

• ∆E = (a1-a

2) 2

+(b1-b

2) 2 + (L

1-L

2)2

• Colour strength = [(k/s) batch

/ (k/s) standard

] x 100

• The kubelka – munk theory gives the above said

relation between reflectance and absorbance, where r

is the reflectance, k is absorbance and s is the

scattering.

Measurement of colour attributes


Mordanting

method

Mordant used in Dyeing of woollen samples with kalanchoe-pinnata

Colour

coordinates

and fastness

properties

Without

mordant

Dry goose

berry

Powder

Harda

powder

Orange

peel

powder

Copper

sulphate

Alum Ferrous

sulphate

Pre L 75.582 79.698 80.850 77.950 79.281 80.507 76.776

a -0.425 1.403 -0.556 -0.338 -1.227 -3.134 -0.035

b 11.137 15.362 17.457 9.458 14.047 16.140 5.664

k/s 11.917 26.693 27.882 14.092 26.724 8.843 33.995

W F 5 5 4 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 4 5 5 5 3

R F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Meta

L 75.582 80.349 82.228 80.818 79.126 78.355 76.913

A -0.425 1.776 0.341 -3.383 -4.699 -1.111 -0.252

B 11.137 17.502 21.120 16.555 12.620 10.902 6.119

k/s 11.917 27.840 28.493 7.718 18.404 6.320 14.857

W F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 3 4 3 4 3

R F 5 4 4 5 5 5 5

Post

L 75.582 79.909 81.714 81.003 80.435 81.625 76.946

a -0.425 0.612 -0.197 -1.988 -3.767 -2.695 -0.219

B 11.137 15.678 19.664 17.135 16.502 18.666 6.244

k/s 11.917 23.289 24.570 11.319 34.987 11.069 14.559

W F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 4 5 5 5 3

R F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Results


Mordanting

method

Mordant used in Dyeing of woollen samples with s.cordifolia

Colour

coordinates

and fastness

properties

Without

mordant

Dry goose

berry

Powder

Harda

powder

Orange

peel

powder

Copper

sulphate

Alum Ferrous

sulphate

Pre L 80.790 79.745 81.435 79.414 80.740 80.955 79.347

a -1.933 -1.315 -0.396 -1.599 -4.030 -2.238 -0.718

b 16.994 15.616 19.014 13.662 17.335 17.591 13.929

k/s 11.917 26.693 27.882 14.092 26.724 8.843 33.995

W F 5 5 4 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 4 5 5 5 3

R F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Meta

L 80.790 83.045 81.977 81.316 80.866 83.045 78.608

A -1.933 -3.885 -0.138 -2.818 -5.213 -3.885 -0.256

B 16.994 22.139 20.622 17.852 17.322 22.139 11.928

k/s 11.917 27.840 28.493 7.718 18.404 6.320 14.857

W F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 3 4 3 4 3

R F 5 4 4 5 5 5 5

Post

L 80.790 80.120 82.071 82.170 82.373 85.471 78.940

a -1.933 -1.171 -0.182 -3.309 -5.908 -5.149 -0.545

B 16.994 16.557 20.896 19.233 20.968 26.574 12.690

k/s 11.917 11.672 9.386 17.291 8.317 17.204 22.086

W F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

L F 5 4 4 5 5 5 3

R F 5 5 5 5 5 5 5


0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

Dry goose berry

Harda Powder

Orange Peel Powder

Copper Sulphate

Alum Ferrous Sulphate

K/S

val

ue

Moordant used

Pre-mordanting

Meta-mordanting

Post-mordanting

Figure 5: K/S values of Kalanchoe-pinnata dyed woollen fabric by various mordants

Kalanchoe-pinnata

•Pre mordanting : Chemical mordant ferrous sulphate gives

maximum K/S values.

• Meta-mordanting: Natural mordants ( harda powder) gives

maximum K/S values.

• Post-mordanting: Chemical mordant copper sulphate

gives maximum K/S values.

• Dry goose berry and harda powder can be used as

alternative to synthetic mordants with good K/S values.

•Orange peel powder and alum shows poor K/S values.



Figure 4: K/S values of Sida-cordifolia dyed woollen fabric by various mordants

• Pre mordanting : Chemical mordants (with copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate) gives maximum K/S values. • Meta-mordanting: Natural mordants (Dry goose berry, harda powder) gives maximum K/S values. • Post-mordanting: Orange peel powder and alum mordants: maximum K/S values. • Orange peel and alum mordant shows lower K/S values amongst all six mordants in sida-cordifolia dye.

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

Dry goose berry

Harda powder

Orange peel

powder

Copper sulphate

Alum Ferrous sulphate

K/S

val

ue

Mordant used

Pre-mordanting

Meta-mordanting

Post-mordanting

Sida-cordifolia


256.583

574.732 600.331

303.42

575.4

190.396

790.017

599.413 613.483

166.167

396.252

136.072

319.878

501.423 529.012

243.708

753.34

238.318

313.461

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

900

W.M D.G.P HARDA POWDER O.P POWDER COPPER SULPHATE

ALUM FERROUS SULPHATE

PRE

META

POST

Figure 16: Graphical value in term of colour strength of dyed wool fabric with k.pinnata

Graphical value in term of colour strength of dyed

wool fabric with K.P


354.164

772.217 757.856

295.417

563.086

264.312

404.844 417.651

856.37

210.384

859.034

417.651

1065.366

770.536

888.962

239.7

1084.807

486.09

1097.818

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

W.M D.G.P HARDA POWDER O.P POWDER COPPER SULPHATE ALUM FERROUS SULPHATE

PRE

META

POST

Figure 18: Graphical value in term of colour strength of dyed wool fabric with s.cordifolia

Graphical value in term of colour strength of dyed

wool fabric with s.cordifolia


K. pinnata

leaves extract

(for dying)

Untreated wool

fabric

Treated fabric

Pre - mordanting

Treated fabric

meta- mordanting

Treated fabric

Post- mordanting

Without mordant

Aavla powder

Harde used as

mordant

Orange peel

used as mordant

Copper mordant

Alum

Ferrous

sulphate

Treated wool fabric samples with K.P via pre, meta

and post-mordanting methods


K. pinnata

leaves extract

(for dying)

Untreated wool

fabric

Treated fabric

Pre-mordanting

Treated fabric

Meta-mordanting

Treated fabric

Post- mordanting

Without mordant

Aavla powder

Harde used as

mordant

Orange peel

used as mordant

Copper mordant

Alum

Ferrous

sulphate

Treated wool fabric samples with s.c via pre, meta

and post-mordanting methods


Discussion

k.pinnata s.cordifolia

•The obtained colour strength value of

k.pinnata treated wool fabric without

mordant is 256.583%.

• In pre-mordanting method, the

obsereved highest colour strength is

790.017% for ferrous mordant and

lower colour strength is 190.396% for

alum mordant .

• In meta mordanting method observed

highest colour strength is 613.483%

for harda powder mordant and lower

colour strength is 136.072% for alum

mordant .

•In post mordanting highest colour

strength obtained is 753.340% for

copper sulphte mordant and lower

colour strength is 238.318% for alum

mordant .

•It can be observed that colour

strength of s.cordifolia treated wool

fabric without mordant is 354.164%.

•In pre-mordanting method obtained

highest colour strength is 772.217%

for dry goose berry powder mordant

and lower colour strength is

264.312% for alum mordant.

•In meta mordanting method

obtained highest colour strength is


lower colour strength is 210.384%

for o.peel mordant.

• In post mordanting observed

highest colour strength is


lower colour strength is 239.700%

for o.peel mordant [131-134].



comparison between k.pinnata and s.cordifolia


1)Very good to excellent wash

fastness with pre –mordating ,

Excellent wash fastness with meta

and post –mordanting.

2) Excellent stain wash fastness

with wool in pre and post , very

good to excellent in meta

mordanting method .

3)Very good to excellent stain wash

fastness with cotton in pre, meta

and post mordanting method.

4) Fair to good light fastness with

pre , meta , and post mordanting.

5)Excellent rubbing fastness in dry

state with pre and post , Very good

to excellent with meta - mordanting

method.

1)Very good to excellent wash

fastness with pre –mordating ,

Excellent wash fastness with meta

and post –mordanting.


fastness with wool in pre and meta ,

excellent in post mordanting method

.


fastness with cotton in pre, meta

and post mordanting method.

4)Fair to good light fastness with

pre , meta , and post mordanting.

5)Excellent rubbing fastness in dry

state with pre and post , Very good

to excellent with meta - mordanting

method.



6)Good to very good rubbing

fastness in wet state with pre , Good

to excellent with meta, Very good to

excellent with post-mordanting .

7) Pre mordanting : Chemical

mordant ferrous sulphate gives

maximum K/S values.

8) Meta-mordanting: Natural

mordants ( harda powder) gives

maximum K/S values.

9) Post-mordanting: Chemical

mordant copper sulphate gives

maximum K/S values.

6) Very good to excellent rubbing

fastness in wet state with pre and

post , Good to excellent with meta

mordanting .

• Pre mordanting : Chemical

mordants (with copper sulphate,

ferrous sulphate) gives maximum K/S

values.

• Meta-mordanting: Natural mordants

(Dry goose berry, harda powder)

gives maximum K/S values.

• Post-mordanting: Orange peel

powder and alum mordants:

maximum K/S values.


• Both herbs act as good natural dyeing agents for woollen

textiles, but s.cordifolia was better than k.pinnnata in term

of colour strength and depth.

• Colour spectrum of both lies in yellow green region.

• Both possesses excellent fastness properties. But natural

mordant's are also good in comparison to chemical mordant's

with excellent fastness ratings.

• Orange peel and alum mordant shows lower K/S values

amongst all six mordant's in sida-cordifolia dye.

• Dry goose berry and harda powder can be used as alternative

to synthetic mordant's with good K/S values.

• Good potential for eco-friendly dyeing of woollen textiles with

renewable resources.


• It is time consuming to extract dye from the raw

materials k.pinnata and s.cordifolia.

• Availability of the k.pinnta and s.cordifolia are limited

and found only tropical and subtropical areas.

• Availability of the k.pinnta and s.cordifolia are

dependent on the growing seasons .

Statement of problem


• In this research two different kind of medicinal herbs

k.pinnta and sida cordifolia were used for dyeing and

provided many different shade of colour with moderate to

excellent fastness properties. Both the herbs consisiting

antimicrobial activity in their powder form, therefore in

further study their dyed samples may be analysed in terms

of posess antibacterial activity in them. [72,146,147]

Beside these their antioxidant properties can be alos

expored for medical textiles.

•

• Further, possible applications of these dyed fabrics are to

make bandages and anti-acne fabric due to their wound

healing and anti acne property for medical textile.

Ultimately these medicinal herbs can be play lead role in

medical textile due to much kind of useful and effective

medicinal properties.



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