natural dyed indigo silk - kku science...
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![Page 1: Natural Dyed Indigo Silk - KKU Science Journalscijournal.kku.ac.th/files/Vol_40_No_2_P_423-435.pdf · Indigo white is the better for textile dyeing such as cotton. Indigo gave the](https://reader033.vdocuments.us/reader033/viewer/2022042307/5ed359df080258622969b681/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
. . . 40(2) 423-435 (2555) KKU Sci. J. 40(2) 423-435 (2012)
Natural Dyed Indigo Silk
(indican (indigo blueindigo blue (leuco form indigo
white
zinc lime vat 60
indigo blue indigo white
indigo white
indigo whiteindigo white
indigo blueindigo white
1 47000E-mail: [email protected]
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2424 Review
ABSTRACTIndigo blue can be extracted from many tropical plants. It is insoluble pigment in water.
Before dyeing, the indigo blue must be base-oxidized to leuco form (indigo white) which iscolorless and dissolves in water. The process was reduced by reducing agents under alkalinecondition. For industry process, sodium dithionite dissolve in sodium hydroxide were used as
using potassium nicklecyanide as catalyst under nitrogen condition, which was satisfyingoutcome. Zinc lime vat is one of indigo white preparing. Indigo blue, zinc powder, lime andmethanol were reduced indigo bath with lower temperature than 60 C. However, repeating ofdye process can be decomposed the yarn. The process of Indigo blue fermentation was usedash lye and need microorganism for equilibrium, this process used among Japanese, Korean,Laotian and Thai wisdom.
Indigo white is the better for textile dyeing such as cotton. Indigo gave the bluish todark blue color on the cotton, whereas the affinity of for dyes is weaker for third of cotton.Several time in dyeing process can be denature protein of silk. Fabrics of silk are less resistanceunder alkaline condition comparing to cotton. According to chemical structure of Indigo white,the numbers of hydrogen bond between Indigo white and cellulose of cotton are higher thanIndigo white and protein of silk. That result for silk obtains less blue in the indigo natural dye. Sothe improvement of vat substance to mix with pigment in order to reduce the indigo pigmentparticles together in the formation of the lowest alkaline and adding up some essentialcompound to extend the hydrogen bond between Indigo white and silk.
:Keywords: Indigo dyed silk cloth, Natural indigo, Indigo dyed cotton cloth
2553 40
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(indigo)(indigotin)
10-5 10-6 mol/l
( max = 540 nm
( max = 588 nm( max = 606 nm)
(Zollinger, 1991 ( max =288 nm , 2530)
(Lim, 2005
( , 2552)
. .
(woad . .A.Von Baeyer
1Indigofera Leguminosae
(tom java)(nila (khaam)
(khraam) (cham(trom (nil
Polygonaceae(Chinese indigo)
(Japanese indigo)
Acanthaceae(Assam indigo)
Cruciferae (Prosea Bogor,1992)
( R2
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2426 Review
1 ( : Jenny Balfour Paul, 1998)
: : R
: : :2
(indican)(
glucosidase)
(Yoshigo et al., 1997)(indoxyl) -
(indigo blue)Indigo blue
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( ) indigo blue(CaO (
( indigo blue( 2545)
indigo blueindigo blue
(leuco form indigowhite pH 10.5 11.5
25 indigowhite
1-2 indigo blue
indigo blue indigo white3
indigo blueindigo blue
(Kim, 1998). . 1. ( ,
2545 Bacillus alkaliphylus( , 2530)
indigo white
pH
(( , 2544
zinc lime vatindigo blue
60
indigo white (Yoshiko et al., 1999zinc lime vat 4
indigo blue
(Na2S2O4/NaOH
(NaBH4
(Meksi et al.,2007)
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2428 Review
3
4 zinc lime vat
indigo whiteindigo blue
5 indigowhite
3 66 indigo white
N-H O H-OH 2, 3 6(glucosyl) 7
indigo whiteindigo blue 3
indigo blue
indigo blue
indigo blue
10
indigo
N
O
OH
HO
O
HO
OH
O
HO
OH
CH2
H H
N 2CH
OH
HOOH
O
OH
+B - glucosidase
2Indican
IndoxylGlucose
Indigo blueIndigo white
N
O
HO
H
N
H
H
N
OH
OH
O2
N Reduction
+ H O2
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white -H NH2
C=Oindigo white 8
5
6( : http://mpronovost.ep.profweb.qc.ca/BIONP1/bionp1_molecules_glucides.htm)
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2430 Review
7
8( : Son et al. 2005)
(2543)10
1:136:136 0.160 70
33 1,20015
706
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9
9
( Bombycidae-
(fibroin (sericin 10
41.25, 28.87 13. 10.( , 2530)
10 ( : http://improbable.com/2009/07/15/the-spider-and-the-747)
(Gly-Ala)n-
C=ON-H (R-
group -( -pleated sheet
( helix
(anti-parallel
(parallel 11
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2432 Review
11 ( : , 2542)
C=ON-H
C=O N-H
( H)
( CH3)
(-CH2-OH) ( CH2Ph-OH)
C=O N-H(back bone)
N-H C=O indigowhite 12
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12
Indigo white7
indigo white 1 5indigo white
2 12
2 3 3
( , 2552
1.
2. indigowhite
3.
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KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 2434 Review
4.
2
5.6 7
41) 2)
3)4)
2
indigo blue indigo white
indigo blue
Bacillus alkaliphylus
. (2552)
.. :
. 52.. (2552)
.. :
. 55.. (2543)
. :
. 26-28.. (2542). .
: . . .105-107.
. (2530)1. :
. 35-38 , 191.
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. (2544). :. (2545).
2545
: .
Lim, H. K., Chung E. J., Kim, J. C., Choi, G. J.,Jang, K. S., Chung, Y. R., et al. (2005).Characterization of a Forest SoilMetagenome Clone That ConfersIndirubin and Indigo Production on
.Applied andEnvironmental Microbiology. 71(2):7768-7777.
Paul, J. B. (1998). Indigo. London: BritishMuseum Press. 89-100.
Kim, J.-H., (1998). Traditional Dyeing Processwith Natural Indigo in Korea. RevivalNaturalIndigo dye. Sept. 20-29.Department of Industrial Promotion.Ministry of Industry. 19.
Meksi, N., Kechida, M. and Mhenni, F. (2007).
Borohydride process: Effect of someexperimental conditions on indigo
Chemical engineering journal 131:187-193.
Bogor, P. (1992). Dye and tannin producingplants. Plant Resources of SouthEast Asia No.3. P. 81-83. R.H.M.J.Lemmens and N. Wulijani-Soetjipto.(Editors) 81-83.
Yoshiko Minami, et. al. (1997). -Glucosidase in the Indigo plant:Intracellular Localization and TissueSpecific Expression in Leaves. PlantCell Physiol. 38(9) : 1069-1074.
Yoshiko, I. W., Rice, M. K. and Barton, J. (1999).Shibori: The Inventive Art of JapaneseShaped Resist Dyeing. Tokyo:Kodansha International 277-283.
Young A. Son, et al. 2005). Indigo adsorptionproperties to polyester fibers ofdifferent levels of fineness. Dyes andpigments 65 (2005). 137-143.
Zollinger Heinrich. (1991). Color Chemistry.2nd. New York: VCH Publishers, Inc.
http://mpronovost.ep.profweb.qc.ca/BIONP1/bionp1_molecules_glucides.htm
http://improbable.com/2009/07/15/the-spider-and-the-747/