v.

WW*

The NATIONAL

GEOGRAPHICMAGAZINE

AUGUST. 1953

Safari Through Changing Africa

ELSIE MAY BELL GKGSVENORWiih $ Maps and 41 Wustniiioft*. 34 in Natural Color*

BetoviEIe Brings Science to the FarmWith IS Illustrations SAMUEL W_ MATTHEWS12 in Natural Color* JOHN E. FLETCHER

Mount McKinley Conquered by New Route

143

103

219

With 2 Majw mill

16 IIlnsTraiions BRAPKOKU WASHBURN

Wildlife uf Mount McKinley National ParkWith 20 Illuatrationa ADOLPH MURIE16 Pamiinji* in Natural Colors WALTER A. WEBER

Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jun tiles

249

With Map and

13 in Natural ColorsMATTHEW W STIRLINGRICHARD H. STEWART

Sixty-four Pages of Illustrations in Color

_lM

>

Vol. ( IV, No. 2 \V.\sML\i ,[n;\ August, 1953

!APMEC

JIT, 11 U- i»rrcntMifiiN^L > if 1

Safari Through Changing Africa

By Klmk May Bfctt Grosyknor

US

//'//// liinstrtttioni by Gilbert Gro$xettorfPrtsijeut, iWtiiaiutl (foe&Mpkk Swh'ty

AT ! OXXOC:K on j pmh-dark Jinu-/-V ary morning, ,i big rcrur*engined air

jl jL finer m«i an down at Kano in thr heart

of Africn. V\> hid Uurded the jtJxmt* the

evening before cm ihe trtdskirts of busy, cus-

mopoltUii Rome, 2.000 miles away.Now. before we could leave the cabin, a

tall Negro dressed in khaki conic aboard andpr.iyrd itr- j II with ::i iulw Uml. As .i parting

pjfi, the a irTifie stewardess gave us each a bos

of paludrine pills and some Mnmd advice: lake

one mull day jiml we wouldn't oilch malaria.

Then we stepped mtt into the night. Africa

wjm cold I A chill wind Mew From ihr dlKrrl

we had just down over, and I shivered as 1

stumbled toward the airport building.

It wju nearly 4 o'clock l>e!ore we reached

ibr home of Mr. Kennel h V. Maddocksu the

British Ki^irlrtit, whi rr were 1o slay while

in Rano But If Mr. and Mrs. Maddockswereupset by having >nic5l5 drop from the sky lit 4

in the nionunj;, they didn't show it. Theywclcumed us in their wrappers and gave us

hot tea and crackers to dispel the chilL Weuwd three woolen blanket*, on our herb—anda hot-water bottle besides.

Only the mosquito nets draped around us-

—

we biuml ihcm rverywhrre wr went in Africa-reminded us we were in "tropica]" Nigeria,

just 12 degrees north o£ ihe Equator (map,page 150)-

Why We Searched n Comincnr

This was the befrinninir, of a threr-roonlri

SOfiQQ-mile safari around Africa for my hus-

band. Gilbert Grosvrnor, and me.Tlie trip was partly a delayed celebration

for our golden wedding anniversary. Slore

important, it wits a search lor fresh material

and new idca> and authors fur I he NationalGhoghaphic Magazine.

Similar quests; in other years had taken us

to the ancient Inra ruins of Macho Piedmon a flight across the Andes in Peru; tlie

I'hiHy summits of China'- holy mountain, TajSlum, And of Japan s Fuji. Hawaii. Midway,ami Wake Iflands: every Province of Canada;Europe; every State of the United States; andtwo Russias, T^trLsi and Soviet.

Africa Stwlf was not wholly new to us.

Many years earlier we had visited Spanish

and French Morocco; we had drunk ira with

ji sheik and dined with :< pa*ha in the walled

city of Fes. the dinner served by Nubian fcirls

jingling with bracelets on arms mid jnkle*.

But ttu Africa wo were to sec now was a

continent where slaves, camels, prod mediansmen are disappearing. In their pLne^ «i*

found jeeps anil trucks, hydroelectric plants,

The Atohor

The *1auuhler *ri .-Mrxsnrfcr Urnham Hi:U. liHie

Ma* hvll CpMtwn»r grew n\* \n » wnriri of w-w i'lra*

ami cxpandinjE uct>cr.A]ihiL trnnUcrs. She w*t born

Id London Ml the 'tin"; *h*-n l'r M«!l v.ws dem»n•itraUne hi* rcrraili' intrated teJc|ib-Dse to iju^cn

\KcurU. Hit fir«t unnwtUntir pn»*AKr ratnc whenwbu hul a icw wcfk* old. «n the IteuV rttum

En til? Unfiled Si:ilrt. She was wwn whrn \he waifillipAT ccki*it whti htr tumOy aboarrl 4 coa^til *Muuilr»

off Xewfnimtltnnrf- l-ater ihr =ti3<ard In Krarift andIr.ily, rtavchu] in KjifcUiiri urvf| Noi way. and in Julian.

in was prc»mted to tfar KmprrwWhen MT» BYII ^« m (irr|int fiwl, birr dlsthv

Eiiiiiicd tiith^r pKudcnt r>£ Uit : hcsi ptonc-erij^

National Geographic Sftriety Thr hc(«rc, tun(utuir nuahiuul—Vuunc VUlhert Crmvenor— had Iwi n

madft wliwr of iu kittle internal. Bhc XAnoffAL' Gel*

cniAFiiD: -M/:..uihr.. jikI Inc Ehr next halt i rutnr.

and muTr unu (a devote hb Die tu jurthrrlnir Tlir

Soeirly'i |irn|(ri* anil puhTn aOnniMe* GoMvi'tinr has ulwsys lakrn n Ocep lntrfo.r In

The Sodttv** ai liviOrt, Shr de-ilmiiii itv fJuz, with fci

vilrj|T» of oiown. fr«-n. anil hl«er •ymhonitriR earth.

>ia, and shv. Sbc h±* read bundreus of tnajiuHcripU

foe The MAiea/lne ami rsamlnrd ihuu-Mntb of pluses

CM prooi and tern of tiKiuunrli ol |iholoicra|riii.

n MttfcW m m)Mw" Wmn$ \4(t

Chiefs of Nurlhern Nigerlu Gather at K-Ltluiai for the Opening "I Parliament

Xntcrfl*"* nrw cnntdituLion gives iU people *rr»1cr lelf-mlr. In N»rllirrn Ptuvlww tln-y nntw: il through u

HaiiMi nl Cliitfi ami an rttctivc Home u( Awrnhly. Brluw Chkfi in robes, turKaoi, and (Vxarn await the nrfttkm

Lff i. IL Lin hi

* The Aiitlmr*. "\Vindnw**hnppiniT in k;inn Market, Scans a Display of K-.ln Nut*Niftriam* cl«* l*ola nuts u Amcricum ch«\i tfiiui tlie vmilor (Sated) ipratb hi* hI«»tL an a mal Wind-borne

ilutf lianci IIU- log In tV rjbtanre, A tall Tuareg ve0> hh farr, r.mr'nnntnx in » male natotn o( hu trifjf.

US The Narion.il Geographic Magazine.

modern tocapitals—and, of course, airplanes,

which are the real taakabs of modern Africa.

All main the raid wind howled When weawoke, *e looked out the window at a view

a* Enjzibh as it was African We wctc in th*-

T-lritish official quarter, outride the walled

-«< thin of the eta rif Knn«> In liulc l-.'ii^i-n

garitem and Goyernmenl-o'wned house* are

oral and iiio<krii. The officials art- ottlj

temporary residents and must move, mil at]

their belonging* even when gptai their

biennial vacations. They never know what

house they'll unite buck to since houses are

extremely scarce in Nigeria.

< .1 1 1 r ]iri'U v . onng hostes was also English,

the (laughter of the well known scientist. Sir

John Russell. Before her marriage- ^he had

been London editor of lhr Junior firitrinnicts.

The Maddocfciiey extensive library on Africa's

Uinh. animal*, and people showed their deep

taleretf in the country Mr. MadducL* helpMgovern, Tfccir books alan helped \is identify

Mricnn bird* and beasts we were lo M&As «Km as we had finbhed breakfast, Mr.

GrosvtDor, Mr. and Mrs. Jladdocte. ami I

started out to explore old Kaiio. From read-

"uitf, I knew thai its history went back nt least

a thousand year*. Ii was a caravan cross-

roads i" medieval times and today h ^till a

busy trulin^: rente:.

Dust Storm from the I>c%ert

As we drove through the city, wc got mrr

first latfe of the harmaltan, the dry, all-en-

veluping dust -laden wiml which sometimes

blows in from the Sahara. 1:or the next sev-

eral day? it stung our eyes and faces and gave

a weird, unreal effect to everything we saw.

It* murky ha*c colors all my recollections of

Kamr it abo colored many of the pictures

my husband took of the city I pages H7.I49, 153, and 1 5ft).

We went through one of thr entrances cut

in Kano*s massive 40-foot thick mud wall*,

bulh centuries HO, ami quickly losit motives

hi a maze nf winding* narrow streets. Moresurprising to mc were the bouses thiii lined

the streets: they were built o: mud! They

have palm-trunk supporu lor roof* anti door-

ways. A few were whitewashed or painted;

some of the fonder ones were decorated with

intricate patterns. Many were getting new

layers of mud and native cement.

Spouts of tin or terra ruttn jutted like fcuns

from the ruoltops.

"They're gutters," explained our sigbt-see-

iiig host, "to Cftrry off the flood* of the rainy

season.

-It's the dry time now," he cimtinued,

"when careful hou^ehnlnVr* do their repairing

and remastering. Tf they don't net around to

it before the rains come, I heir cla> wait-, w ill

eventually melt down and they "II find tbrm-

ietvet IhJnjc in p mud puddle!*"

We got not of the car at Kano's big. hustlinp

market plate and were quickly swallowed up in

a noisy crowd. Customers and merchants

elbowed each other ami «*. There were tall,

ebcoiy Hauios and lighter Fullid with bearded

foce.s. Everywhere small naked ehildren w:ui-

dernl. ,ilon« with tnquirinc griatSr climkcyBt

*heep. and thicken*.

Livestock was only part of an aoiazhi?

variety of men-hamiLe, We saw fine leather

gOOdfl, metal Jewelry, and bright, biMrre jirint*

nudging empty l>ottles ami old ra/or Mmlcs

We also saw—and srncNrd—dried fish: ne.M

In freshly slaughtered meal lay piles of grain,

salt, awl spices. Kola tints, chewrd f»c lift,"

5eemeil to br popular (page T J 7), and so were

i usnietTi used by local belles i" dnrken riu-ir

eyelids and hennn »heir noila and hamKMany of I lie wares werr >{iiead out i»n the

hare ^rnund, with only u tiiulrh or bamboorover to keep off the sun. Ofhem we» dis-

played Infshop5." rows of cavclike mud slaU>.

Desert Itidert Wear Indigo Cilnth

Kano i* famous for its cloth, woven of lo-

cally Rrown cotton, and foT it? brilliant blue

dyw breweil fnwn Ihe wild Inciigu plant. Wesaw both w the market, lo open vat? dyers

were dipping and rinsinE lenathv »\ white CM-Urn cluth which came out m shndes of blue

ironi pole to deepest indijto (page? I5S, 150),

War hy, cither workers beat the rruilerfal to

«Kv it a metallic luster.

We siMV veiled Tuareg horsemca wearing

|-ol»eS "f lhi> i|erp-l.iliH* cloth. OtheT pfrce*

inieht add allure to the wardrobes of Kana'5

linrem favorites. Later, in another Nigerian

city, I recognised tm' typical nvelallic blue

»a the 1uri>aas of prominent native rulers.

We ?*aw alriHisi no wnmen Rano's ladies

are kept well hidden from the profane gaze

of outsiders.

Vet chiinge is comtng. An elrineotar}'

scliool has been established for the knii^-ncfi-

lecleil Moslem girls. It is atti nded by mem-ber? of the Krnir'5 own houtehulil. The faces

of the few W4>men we did see were uncovered,

despite the fact that this is a Moslem city.

There wa? even nn ultramodern touch while

we were there—a strike by Nigerian railway

We sfl-w manv p\h»inid- ii Jejtsi fret

high made entirely of ba^zs of peanuu await-

ing transportation tooth tjiai^e Theyare a leading export of the couniry: others are

tin. palm kernels and palm oil. cocna, hitbs

;md skirts Ah*»eethifr. Nigeria'.* exjxirts tout-

ed more than $j SO,CXK).000 in \*i$lf b forciuu

trnrle built up during the last 40 years.

(Trxt tonlinwd ,»t pa{t 154)

+ Market-bound Ni&eriim* Enter Knno "f" Nigeria'* Largest Opun-oir Mart;

Through Massive Adobe Gutt the Author Shop* for Cloth

KfiiiD tioasti i written bfeuorx' mtmthnc bark n«riy SprjwHni! K,m» rnarlirt auram -0,mo |itooIl- cLiilv

1,000 years. Todav the city U BOftbttS NbtfffrV Mfuhutit-s uftKit or in tulla oi tb.it-cb or mud, hawkIropuli*. with lC^Oflrj fwtipb. A hisi'h rami null ptacnl an Innniir Varictv m| warn. The cKirth. *ak-«t1UJi (Mrl» 15 patci encircles Ihc cldtoi wcilon. Donkeys ami (ruoto a jitirt in Haiwi, native tOOfW. TTw MMltfrt

prili-ttrEafiF, liul few vrrhlclrt, may usr ihU |xiri/il lind> a lapccml comfortable In t>piciilM

Niilrrii.

Lisbon 9

MOROCCO

TunisT URfcUY

irwi* Baghdad

sr.\MiiHSAHARA

AldEBU

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Ligos

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Covered Alma by Cplf„ ...f\ beisian

Africa, ibe Mwitul lun«r*t <<>n-tini/nt, covers Jl,.tS<J,LictJ Hrjuitrr

ii.ii ion? fenUUi, Frame. Spain,Funuiul, Krtirftim, awl Italy.

Tth ^uih<v unit brr hti»buniJ

c«n'«ed the vasl taml mj».i (i>

tAttiic 10 Ihe aft for the kicktiijH urwJ miikiiu; shorter i-xpcdl-

tinru t>v ca>They" u*t<ht?il fcfcatiafc fcchl

tvtsc fli« in Mcvrh. ntmiA-

HfJtpVhSd rhlfina in /jiluUml andHons In Krucrj Turk.Rv the Umr Ihry Etit faunjc

Ihry had tiavcliil lO.OOd mites.

SOMALIA

V"n-turuA KENYA' ''IKiQnniijaFs

l.iAr IAN\i*Sl IK *\ /A NilHAHT^uHvilu, Jfare* SoWl

Victoria fajV'if" - Btilawaya

AFRICA x^uml

Area of detail

Union oF SouthAfrica Map

4

4"

Kirnbcrley

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Spring*9&}tesberti

JVarrenton

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ORANGE FREE STATE^ #

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'flirt Alfred

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East London

ar £L

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C«p«orCo«!Hopi Cj|»MntCape PaitJViuSc tcparatet Inc ca'rf

^t^iintfc from mtrm wtitcr of fake fcy 351

Peanut I*)Tninids Kisc in Kunu'a Murktfl Pluvv, A Rail Strike Delayed Shipment Snath

M run'**! tunr jwanuQ |VHir Into Kami Irani ill nvrr nnrlliini NterriiL Ifto laxlu to n unset, odp to A

lurnun orrirf Yhr li»t*1 ctftp Itt x fiowl ymu Lt im>i< than Jiou,*OOQ tore. In Lb? rnartft pl-ur mnn ttturh

them ti&g on liac, climbine thr odes of the fiyrumtrllike .«trpt with th* h*avy »ttts luiiimvil on ILuit hcark-

Frnm KniKi we were scheduled to fly to

Zaritt, 85 miles to liie southwest.

Airline tickete? "See the *ky maiden," wewere told.

'Hie sky mjirli-n lurried out to hp a hearty,

tmsom Englishwoman who ntanuued the \V«tAfrican Airways Corporate »n nlfict in Kano.

Slit* wnirlii be ffliirl to *ell 115 tickets In /aria

or cut*a tie a charter plane for us r she said, but

l he traj fine-Minn was: (%ou)d the pilot find

Zaria? On the trip north thai ninniing Use

luwn luni been i.nmpletelv hirMen hv the hnT-

mattan murk. and he hadn't been able in land.

We decided to chance it, and mir tuck held.

We rlew through and over a dense veil nf dust

all the way. but when we. reached Zaria f!

cleared enough for ns to land.

WUai Price for die Truth?

"You were lucky in make it.'* said our hint,

Mr CiMirnd B Williams, HritisJi Resident at

Zarin. Mi- wife, an Anwrrican ftM from Bos-

ton, told us that our sjn|ik nf ih- Ii.irm >rt.in

was really a pretty mild one,

•'Sometimes,' " *ht said, "we can't *ee Across

the street for the dust. It even blows nut to

sen and covers passing aliip*."

The ancient \|i»t|em rily uf Zaria. like so

much uf Africa, i* proudest of its modern

louche*. Our hosts showed us a new prirrthnu

plant width puhltehr* a daily newspaper in

the Rgl&l language. 1 Uiuttuju it* title,

printed next to ihe price, was ;mmMng It

U also tadiquitahfe: 'The "IVuih l| WnrthMure Than a fenny."We saw ,1 missionary hospital where—-a real

s%fl of progress!— native women are vaunt-

ing out ol their home?; to serve a* nursed.

Kounded by ihe f'hirrch Mte^nary Society

and run hy a wimvin rli«tor, I lieodora Mp«F.R.C.S., this hospital is rated oJie of die best

in this area.

Nidcriun* l-canr Sul i-r5u\ eriiniwiif

Hul the real event of our visit was the

historic meeting, in near-by Kaduua. of the

first elective parliament in unilhern Nigeria

(page Mu>. It r-Kik place in a shining new

wJntL* parliament bviFdiri-a. lanjurrl Hall,

pamed for Lorr] I.uRard. Hi* arttc.tr eulilled

"'Hie New Km; fish I'mviatt of Northern

Nigeria. puUIhFwmI In the Xovember. l°CM.

issue of the N^ttoxal GrooBAnuic Maaa-xink. Tva5 one reanm for our stoptaver in ihl*

interest inn ciuntry.

Wc watched emirs, sultans, and Irihal rhief-

tida< rtre<*j^l in flowing *llk and .sal in roije*

lake ihe i»uih of oftke and swear fealty to

Satan Through Changing Africa 155

I lie British Cmyen in northern Nigeria's

Up^H'l buir-r ihr ll'-L.-f i.( I hlefi. N.I Eric

Thump'-tnue (familiarly called l^ruli&Uinc'1

),

ihrn Lieutenant Governor of the NorthernProvince*, prcsiiled over ihtf ceremony ln;uu

thronelike choir.

The 1951 constitution provides lor north-

ern Nigeria 4 regional parliament somewhatlike England*. The House of Chiefs is rough-

ly equivalent to tSwr House of Lords; the lower,

or Housr nf Assembly > memlwrs «d which wesaw sworn In ihr Mlowinfx day, like the

House of Commons. Members of the UwerHouse are elected by ibe Nigerians them-selves, except for a few ip|K>inted representa-

tives oi the Briiish Government in Nigeria,

'Hie congress at Kaduna would pass laws

(or the Northern Provinces only. Later, like

the oilier Iwm I'mviinrs, tJiey would send

member* to .1 natUmil House of Krpresrrit*

ntrvos nl Lapus. the capital of the whole uf

Nieena-In their dress the Nigerian dfanilarfes far

outshone the Ilritish al the swearing-in cere-

monies. Sninp of the chiefs' robe* were al-

most tjllndine—heavily embroidered silk of

bright green, white, yellow, blue, or Invender.

The chiefs were nearly all tall, vrrikJng-

looklng men. many well over six feet, Mostwore enormous Uir'vms nf different designs.

Spectacle* (or Decoration Only

Looking down from the wfToc' Haltery, 1

ruitked that, the chief* harl on hliRe riarfc-

rimraed spectacles.uHarl eves?" I a*fce.[ Mr .Williams

"No/1

he smiled. **Thwe people have sn-

|wU sfchl The tgfaees are for rlir»nil> .

"

Then I noticed thai as each I'hirf went lo

Sinn the register, he pushed the Blisses np onhis Forehead and looked under them

AftflT ihr ceremony f met the Sultan ofSnkoto. head of the Islamic church in Xiceria;

also several emirs. As we shook hands, I

wondered how long It would lie liefore someof their secluded Moslem women would be per-

mitted to *hare in Use new political freedom.

"Many of the representatives of the lower

House are from |ing:in tribes/' Sir Eric said,

when we had lunch with him and members of

bis nufF -it i he British Residency. "Othersare Moslems, and still others are Christians,

One of Xiperia's hta problems ts ihlfi diversity

uf peoples in religions, custom*, and evenlanguage."

Since our visit, hitter polflknl rivilry he-

iwei'li Mo>lriu and iion-Mo*dem has caused

nntrnjr and bloodshed in Nigeria-

In Kmluna we -laved with a brilliant British

scientist. Dr. T. A. M. Nash. For 25 years

Dr. N'ash has l>ren die nf the lenders in the

nghl against Africa's Greatest H'ourge, the

tsetse fly. This small Insect, found only in

Africa, lias devastated vast section* of the

continent, for it spreads human and animalforms of the dread disease trypanov»mi^U, or

slw [-in

-

r sickness.-

For generations sleeping sickness ha* struck

terror across troprcal Africa. Ft has killed

hundreds of thousands of Africans and someKurojJeans, wiped nut whole vi [lares, anddriven farmers from their hud.

Twine My Hlighrs Va*r Area*

Today the fly still blocks prouress in an

area in Africa bigger Than the whole Coiled

Slates. Vast ureas o( fertile farmland and pas-

iure.s lie empty and deserted Though in part*

of Africa modern dnijts have brought sleej>in«

sk'ktiess in humans under cunlnil, rj.H'oin.

nn normal f* fcrm, si tit destroys livesim k andbeasls of burden, A cow, an ox, or n horx*

bitten tr>- an mfecied fly wastes ftwtty amiasitally dies.

"In Nlgola.*1

Dr. .Nash ^id, "mosI (armrnhave carry their form pmdiur td market ontheir head*.™

Much of the country's heaviest farm labor,

including plowing, hivirn:. and hauling, is

done by hand, to a lanre extent woman's.[ mw nuiny tsetse flics in L>r. Nash's labu-

ratnry. where he breeds them for experimental

purposes and lo study ll*eir ha1»it« and find

out how host to attack theni. Tbey l»w»k

innocent ennugn, nilher like our own housefly

esrept for Uieir wiru?s, which foM across their

h&ctti when at rest. But Dr. Nash keeps themcarefully locked up, with metal screen.? ondoors window*, and CBj*es, Tliese* inciden-

tally, were the only screens we saw in Afric;i.

anrl thev wm Used to keep Hies in. not nnt.

TseUr llitra are *tran^e in=ects. They newrdrink water mid nVe entirely on blood, so that

.i whole ^tableful of guinea pips has t* ^ In-

kept to feed those in the laboratory. Thefemale fly produce": only one egg &i a time,

which she I*»ih hutches and nourishes inside

her body with milk Rlamls until it is born.

Mother T*ct*c*4 ,fBabie*M R^.rn Alive

The muthiT isctse fly frfves birth to a tiny

white larva much as a woman grvrs birth to

a baby.The larva immeifiiitety buries it?e!i an inch

or more under the tr,round, where It turns info

a pupa fchrj'ialisj and some week* later into

a fiv.

One mating suffices The femaTe fnr life.

Starting nboui 20 days after motinc. she pro-duces one such larva every 10 days during her

life span, imuully aboui three mi*Uh*.The y<imiR tstLse fly isnol iuirmful at first.

Not until fl Idles an infected person or normaldoes it pick up tryprtncisomes, the parunites

C MIHUI »i»HHr*i

+ OirW Let SlKjppioi! ("in in Their Heads

KaiKi ihildicn Irani In usr> bead burdens alrtiftnl a*

won as lhr> ran fcafk Good ptnttirr m a by-product

erf ihr pnicilw. Girls wear vwtumimom cloths, while

ch# Ihj\ -JiulU in a lulricliiili.

T Bttf or SmiilL Your F'tr/. Size It IK-rc

A* soon jii *i»ki. many of Llstw briftlil term in Kan»h-1-.il.i! Hill tibJippeMT li«-iu'al.h turbaiu. MujJjc vl felt,

ihf mup-Riiine ua|* help krqi ckilh loUUfrom dipping.

A boy Birjillct a tray oS cakn

Safari Through Changing Africa 157

ihiii caune sleeping rftiufas. Mill from then

on it w ibtti*crou* a* limit as il live*.

There are II diflerenl varieties or species

of tseise ily in Xinert* ; socih* feed chilly on

men, and other varLettei prefer animals.

The tsetse fly has « *harp proboscis, re-

sembling a tiny hypodermic needle, projecting

straight out from its head. When the fly lights

• in a man, this proboscis pierces the skin, in-

ject.* a niKhbUiod-ckitiing sufcianre, and then

draws li|i hicI. At the some lime it may deposit

trypanosornes in the bloodstream.

I>r. Nash, who *tl|I h iml ruer

jzetic after 25 years of Unite against the rTy,

told Us about the work he ami other 51 ientbl*

.irr doing tn bring il under control

One weakness of some specie,* of tsetse fly.

hi* explainer], is that they must haw shade,

They breed and live in thir.k undergrowth.Back m the tV.ifT* Ur Nn>*i research showedthat by clearing only lhe undergrowth iiiul

hushes aWji streams the rfverine tsetse couldlie eliminated. This partial clearing methodwas then employer! an a larue scale in the

\nciiuu district. In a report on the project

Sir. Nash wrote:

" Attention was first focused on the \tichau

district of Zaria Province in 1954, when Dr.

X, E. \X. Andrrwn found that unc-tWfd nl

the population had sJerpimr sickness, and thni

in some harnfets hall the population wereinfected."

Today tJve cleared ansi I* a corridor in

northern Nigeria 70 miles long and ID miles

wide. Here 60,000 |HHplr and their (iveMock

BvAi hoallhy and fly-free. Old Anchau. tin- itt~

tsinns chief city, has been cleaned up, and newvillage* haw l>een bttOl.

How to Move n Spiiii

With dry humor Dr. Nash tells some ni thedifikullies of this ID-year t tearing and rebuild-

ing job:

When we First started tleariue around

Anchan, the presence of sacret I tree* in thestreams caused much trouble, especially in

one village area* The village, head would sud-

denly eiw out chat the work was reaching aplaee where any man would rite who enteredthe prove, the labour jmnj!.* would nut turn upnext day and work would ronw to a standstill.

"The following method soon abated this* nui-

sance. The village head, who was also theearthly leader of the spirit world, would lie

interviewed in frnnt of all hi* Debate, andafrer much preamble fnhf that the existenceof these spirits was causing us much trouble,

that unfortunately Europeans were finite In-

capable of making spirits change their abodes,but that it waa rumoured ihat he had this

amazing power: me could not believe It po$-sible for any man to 1 1> r such a thins, and 1 tin-

sidered it to fie all lies, but, if be really hadthese iiovu-r-. would he kfndly remove t J te

spirits on lo a neiirhboiirirtg fa il J,

"Invariably the old man would turn up next

day saying that be had wrestled with [he spirit-

all night, and thai finally they had agreed to

live un the itoired hill. Kveryone ins hnppy.the old mart's prestige was enhanced, and weK>it the streams cleared.

Eventually the work grew into Car morethan elearUj.' and ueue. extermination. \*tribesmen were resettled in cleared areas,

whole new romrn unities had to lie planned(rum the gruund up. Dr. XasJi descruV* the

nw village of TakaLitiva near Vuhau:"The roadways, all* 100 feel wide, act a*,

firebreaks, fur which there Is a irreat nc-etL

Pink MmvvvIa .mil Pure \S »it»;r

"All the mail? in Takalafiya haw beenplantevl up with avenue* of niihoyany. nuui-

iroes. das, jnd the pink-tluwered Cassia: a

stasHtred .spacing rate of 75 (eel has been uw*din Laying out the avenues . . .

/'

Careful phinhEnu aUo tttmt into locatinR

and iH^uirijE sanitary fresh-water wTells and in

I>tnvi(Jin>! drainage and elementary sewage dfe-

DOjnL A iww elementary .<chiH»l has lieen

IjuBt, and a 12-acre mnrtel farm demonstratesnew method* umJ new crop*, imtudiiig wiy-

beuns and frtuts.

AiJprcipriareJy, lhe town's name, Takalarlva.

meanv "Walk in Health/'

Hill Africans will not wnlfc surely in health

until SOrae way has been found to control

oagaha in broader areas. New medicines are

being tried against ihr trypam«i.>mes them-selves I'aKle fn the iseiic Wit are being,

given iujiilions of antryEide. Bui, *a lar, it

lias provided only a short-term immunity.*The biggest reRemiirs of nagana parusiie-

left in Africa now are wild animals in thejungle. Many of (hem are tolerant to thedisease but carry the bifraMte* in their hlmwl,

like lyphokl Mary/ The tseL<e q bites

one of Them, picks up the parasites^ and is

dangerous from then net.

Dr. Xash told us that in cerlain limited

areas where il l< wsential to reclaim land fromthe woorllntid tsetse Icir Increasing herd* of

faille, a policy of nam? destruction is ad-

vicated liecause these tsetse disappear if there

is no game.".Such a measure naiurally brinje a siami

ni opjio>itiiin from conservaiionisU. natural'

Is is, hunters, and many others," be sakl e but

in Mich circumstances on ethical grounds manm ust tome first."

One of the pleasontest hours 1 passed in

• S« Lflrstain Tarkl« Hi* Fj*I 4irlon Huah," by

"VV Hnl»crt Moore. Ntnmru. Gxrwatvini MitnAfmt,Manrli. VW,

3a

--<

*

-a

5 Iw

s

r

B

_

III

1 5- -^1£

- 5 u5

* -3 ^-UK

51a

sit

3" 1'£-6

I

d

= 3s

a S4-1

r

-

s

If

aa—

4

5 e

Pi

5

flsi i

12

3

5

cE4/

The Naiion.il rr c:u^r:ipHe Mag.tsine

Africa was on Sunday mottiina In Kadim i

With Dr. Nash we went to a little Anglican

church which has been put up by the English

people, of the community.

The church is tiultl without side wulU, so

that II is almost completely open to the

sUrtuiitiditaj trees. From the sunlit green

branches outside came a chorus of bird *onti»

so leniri and clear ft all but drowned nut the

words "f I hi' scrvke. There were bulhuKnightinaahre, and Mime more. u> sweet ami

melodious a c hoir m> I have ever heard.

Skyscraper* Ruilf on Gold

Three thousand nriles bnutheasl of medieval

Kano lie* Johannesburg, a modern city bu ill on

the prutits (nun the Cnion of South Africa's

fahulom gold miner- la a swift Krilish plane

we covered the distance in 15 hour*., slopping

mm ly twice,

\\r tombed first at Brazzaville, the sultry

capital of French Equatorial Africa, and, dur-

ing World War It, headquarurs for the Free

Krcncb. Al I.jvlngftinne, in Northern Rho-

desia, we landed again, this time In a tropical

downpour. We He* "n in a storm that tossed

our big plane as if it hail Urn a small bout.

On the long drive to town from the Johan-

nesburg airport we frequently" passed great

pyramid? id r.trih rising from the ground. TJte

man-made mountains are the gold mine dumpsi hut are Johannesburg* trademark. Less

rhan 70 year* ngu neither they nor the diy

existed. There was only a treeless veld here

m ISS6, when the world's rfch^l gold lode

was opened.

Since then both trees and cities have sprung

up along the whole C 50-mile Mretch ot the

treasure-bearing Wit watersrand, ' Ridge of

White Waters." Mines with local headquar-

ters In Johannesburg produced about S4CW-

000.000 worth of sold in \9>Zfi

JohanresJnifg i> now third only to Cairo

and Alexandria among Africa's cliks and ?S

the largest south of tin? Sahara. Its streets

are lined with skyscraper offices, streamlined

apartment budding*, and luxury hotels, Pros-

perous nuntne companies and woild-famous

banks alternate with smart shops, theaters,

and cafes. Nearly a million people now live

in Johannesburg, and it t> still growing.

Johannesburg, or aJbT«M|» a* tht" South

Africans call it. looks and feels youthful.

Trees line iu avenues: 113 suburbs bloom with

flowers lis 5.800-foftl elevation makes the air

rem dear mid bracing, the sunlight sparkling.

Yet (he cfly reaches farther down than ii

does up. Three jtold mines Inside Johannes-

burg's municipal area go more than 9,000 feet

below the surface. Only the most modernscientific techniques and air cooling make It

possible for men to work so deep underground.

Johannesburg'?, gold ban produced more than

skystampe rs and modern machinery. Four

thousand students nt the new fnivcfslly id

tin- WItwat.ersr.iiid are takina courses in the

arts and sciences. mrdi< im\ po-a,i*ruduate law,

and engineering. The university was ope tied

only a little mure than half a century ago as

a tet bnicnl school

We ate a pleasant lunch with the uniwr-

sity's president. Dr. Humphrey R, K a ikes,

and T)r John H. WeFiin«loi), dean of the Fac-

ulty pt Science and professor of geography.

Oli "the terrace of the Country Club. Dr. Wel-

lington had visited the National GeographicSociety in Washington. l>. I'., several monthsearlier. l)r. R.iikcs. In addition to his work

as a scientist, distinguished him*ell in the

ICAF during World War I; later he liecarue

chief instructor of the Oxford University Air

Squadron.

During lunch we enjoyed the beautiful

view from the terrace almost as much ax tfce

food Next we were shown through the \\ it-

watersrand library.

We .saw a fascinating collection of nnips,

diaries, and oilier dotummt> .dl dealing with

the opening up of Africa, And again J wasstruck by the nrtvnr.u of ihis country we were

visiting. Some of the papers, telinifl of cv|)cdit]ons into wild and unknown region*

urouud Lake Nuaani and the Zambezi River,

were f*igneil by Uftvid JLnrin^tfuie.

"You * .in *ee hr>w recent these dLscowries

were," said our host, |H«ntins5 I f> another o(

the >iznatures. ''This man was mv grand-

fatter.

Sione f1rat% \larkii Landing hy Uia*

The libniry's priz^r possession is a great

deal older. It b a 7-fotil stone cross raised

b by the Portuguese explorer W trtholtK

meu Dios on the southeast coast of Africn.

Iiia.i, lot.tkin.e; for a passage to India, wasthe first European to salt around the tip of

i he cwiTineni. He never got la India. Mi-

nim rebelled anl lorccd him to turn buck: so,

as evidence thai he hud jft>ne this far. he landed

and raised the cross.

"For tentucie* Portuguese writers men-tioned Ihi? Dins cross/' lh R.iilns told us

l lun it was heard of no more. Not until

193ft did It come light again. One of our

research fellows found its fragments buried in

the sands n0 miles rwirtlieast of l

Jort hlj/jibcrli

1 1 was broufthi here and pieced together."

Three and a half centuries passed betweenDlas's tir.-il lalirJukc .mil the opening up of the

southern part of Africa.

•Sm- T:k ii!ir- Tl.-.t in.) Dbmoiiik Uulli*

hy W. Kobcrt Moore. Nathivm t«rn<;MAeinr \|tc,\.

Mix, Dwmfcrr.

(T'A-t conlinufti r*i jae/ 177)

* l-inty* Tt:«r iliu P.nli 1. 1 <ht? Author**Cur in Kruiior National 1'nrJc

South Afrim'i imrrmnt Knlttr NnUnnai Puck, olmoit

ft din .11 Mj^icIium-IU, Irrmi *lth wildlife (pop***

H.V \HA*. Llmu. atcuHcimriJ f<v on. oltrift laj* In themnili lUu^bly mnlr= hold |hcir nruimrf « the autu-miilulc iliivr^ ftWK tuwjiii tbent

y T.cn \Yjlk* \wa) vviili Ruilul Dignity;

Hi* Friend I* Too La&y lo MowPuri; tioiu ito mil mlA-rk nutcmintiHn. Thin drowsy

julr, sorjscti from u rvtont fcfll, Ikitctl chop» and paw*jmi rullrtl In the ilu;t Wtr tinuse cull Unru libit*

lad riWUU finally $C6v« Ihrm uiiUr The pMritrmpJiii

wire iruuli thr&ugJi jn u|*n cur window.

t t.t-.iu,ilu lli-t*o |f>|

Pouring Breaker* Sweep llic SuuJs of Mui/enhurtt Itcucli near Cape TownMubenbrrp** jflriiTnlnir itrand in'iiriy JO miici Inn*, lin on the raitern *irfr w( Caju- I

ji juii'-uU Tbrrc Jbc Arullu

Cumnt warm* KaUr. ttjy. S*-i* «n tnleki ihi II Unlit Ude. uhtw ilu cfaul Hwifiiitk Curri'hl Ifo**.

Vacationer* Bathe in ihc Surf or Siroli Bviicuih * Cloud tews SkyTli fnrr 1910 MtrizcnhtrFjf bctuti wa* an (Hji-cf-tbr-uav *pul with icw vf*|tur>. MtnU-rn tTniupmiatifm rhanstitfl || |tfi>

j I iu-.i ttnjf Trwirt <rimiinj by (Iiuu^idiK Airimr I be Smith African summer #ta*)qn, Ttoivrnbi-r ihrouich Marcb

.

I

3 :

I

3

Clifton* Sun-ivA»hcd Bungalows DimtiiJ ii Sleep I lilUidc Above (lie Aliunde

Sca^itir Clfcitoii In fUbuitwn Cape Tusvn u a plate uf >v*r-iouml roSlfcnw, Wmst ten^icrutiifus rarc3y efip below

ItTrriiitt Hun'"! Muffs ill Mw TwHvtr Apotiik* mpprr Iril* loum hirh nbuvv ibf

Nature] Burners <>f Wavc-hauturcd Refill Divide the Suburb* rWhimt PwrfwiAl Limes, ntii tr. uiinnin. tin L.ijw IViueimuVi HiIajllLl tvalrtft ;itr iiih niulurtalilt thill Iklaum ul a culil cuiiunl

iytgt Hrrr Oiitt>n rctluVnU mn tbectiM-'kvw oo Ibi' wxwlu; icvr venture into %hc *url T

Lion's Head Claps iti« Kttld Summit <if H R.hEky Hill Abo\c Sea Point

Sra I'liiui i- onr pi rhr rr»«r i»upu!»u* i".iv- T^wuV wWl*. iU !«uidi Ittmt, dotted witJi hoteb, orlrnrh

fur iWft inilc£ alonjs the Atlantic shorr Ir.vm Ttiwc Avhor H;»> to Banuy Hay. If Uie mri kirn* o>W for iwimmUw,

holiday ttvtan tuione Sen Phlftl Puvittnn'f husr MM o|Mrn-uir pool. Vi*ntU trom rcrtnlfi bum* the wnnlded

taob, icet Hjrh, rormlilrt the hcni <>l * mttmtwnt Hon

Safari Through Lhant-jnu; Africa

"Don't fly down to Cape Town, n fellow

pfit*sen^rr warned us at Johannesburg. "It's

a really tuggecf trip." In this southwest cor-

ner of Africa, he explained, cold anil warmair iomc together violently; storms art fr*-

<|iient. and tanrlins over Tabic Mountain is

dangerous..

Uut tu tap it sounded even more "rugged"

In i rain — Is hours and almost 1,000 miles

over ii torrid, wmiarid mounUi In country. Theplane trip, however bumpy, would He over in

thrw hour*. We denrJed to ri-k it: anil jo- it

so often turns nut. the pansui*' wa^ li-* nni«h

than the warnings.

My first view of Capo Town from the air

was worth the trip to m*. Set close to the

sea, The city seems to flow in roil -'uid white

waves up and around the mountain behindil—l>evi[\ IVak. l.ionV Henri, ami the mas-

sive Table Mountain (pages 162, 166).*

Wisps of cloud flouted over Table Moun-tain's broad flat top. f :tp»: Towners call this

the "tablecloth;" when a blustery southeaster

blow* this way. the cloud completely covers

the surface of llir table.

We found Cape Tnmi in full bloom, for

January, of course, ii *nimnirr in thh Southern

Hemisphere. Parks and wardens, were KaywSfh blossoming trees and rainbow-colored

African flowers (page lott).

Our suburban hotel was percheii hiflh ou acliff, overfuuking the Atlantic where Dia*once failed. At dusk, we climbed down a wind-

ing stairway—so many slepsf—to I he boulder-

strewn beach lieiuw. ('harming bungalowsface the sea. thrrr ruck-uarden terraces over-

grown with geraniums, nasturtiums, and pink?.

In the background, as unreal as a post card,

lowers the carat sharp peak uf Lion's Headand the range of the Twelve Apostles: rpaee

174).

Where Mighty Oceans Meet

Pleasant liomes like these, lovely reports,

and lishiiu* villaues loir all thr miles nf 1 reaches

on Adieu's southern penirutib, ending in the

fanmtqj dipt of Guud Hope and Cape PointIpagelHl).MnM ol thr reports and fishuis villages

lie on the protected east coast, facing False

Bay. which if near the Indian Ocean side.

There the water is warmed by the tropical

\Kulhas Current, Ot the Atlanta side the

cold Rengucla ("urrrnl chills the heaches.

Not for from our hotel wr rame to a hugeswimming pool built along the very edge 'of

thr open ocean.

"It* not only rouph and • nM nut thru-/'

a Cape Towner told us, pointing toward the

tea,,"Imii yau're likely 10 ou-r t a shark/*

Cape Town is the ohfc-st important perraa-

nenl white settlement in Africa south of the

Kquator. While we were there, the city wasgetting ready a big e\|>o#ii]on ground to» cele-

brate its 300th birthday. It was founded byI he I Hit ch East India Company some 30 years

after the Dutch West India Company hail

sent settlers to New Amsterdam ami Iwvujihl

Manhattan from the Indians.

When you talk to C'a|ie Tuwners about his-

tory, you hear again The name of Pins. Theytrll you about East Indiamen thai -ailed

armind the Cape for loO year* alter Diai.

Their rrrws in too much of a hurry to gel

to the Orient. or house again, to mq]i hen-.

OhCC in a while a ves^rl wuuld jiausr l»rieJl>'

for waier.

Then, its lft47. a l>utch ship wn$ wrecked,and the survivors srramblvd ashore at whatis now Table Bay. Prom a salvaged packetof seed* the*' grew vegetables tn keep them-

selves alive till rescue came.

From n St'td Pucker, n City

The incident gave the Dutch East India

< !t»npany an klejt. la April, 1652. a companysurReim. Jan van Kiebeecfc, w-a* landed at the

site with aliout tOO setters. His orders wereto plant a vtrgrlahlp garden i\tr the henefii of

the scurvy-tiiTden seamen of the East Indies

traffic.

From the sailor*;' "Tavern H the Seas"Cape Town itrew iato one uf the world 's fam-ouk ports. T'«b)* it tin' capital of Cape of

Good Hope Province and the leirklativc scat

of the uidqseadeni brabb Hominron. the

Union of South Afrka.In the lieart of town, now numbering half a

million. 1 lie stalely Hinises uf Parliament fare

the |2-a.rr Public i Tardea* (page 166). Andwhere V.in RirlweckVvegrtaLles twice grew. I

siwa show collection of thousands of variiCties

of flowers, shrubs, and tree3 fnun all over thr

world.

Among them ;ue many ?|)ecie5 of /Vtuctrnlbn

eucalyptus aa«l wattle, tried out a» part <if

South Africa's extensive forest-plan tine pro-

Brum. "First thins you know, we'll have moreAustralian trees hi South Africa than they

have In Australia." a Cape Towner lauKhivj,(ttre make mine props out of eutalypiuV'

he added, "and tlie watllr bark iuppons ourbig taxminp busing."

But if South \:>ira fmp<.»n5 some of lin

lrw>. she more Iban pays b>r tlieni with ibc

nativr flowers she expom. So ahuntlanl andbeautiful are the Cape Province'* wird flowers

Lhat theaiea has been ijIIkiI the florid prov-

ince." Flower.* originally native to South\frica .ui' imw tottiv.oed in ^aniens all over

the world. Among rhem are some of the love-

• Set "Busy Currttf—thr Cape «f Good Uapa." byW RAt«f] M««rr. Nttki>M. Ucocuueacir M^.;\xwt,Xuau.i1. I'MJ.

Snuth A idea's Pnnic Ministers Live in Groore Schuur. Once Ocil Rhode*'* HomeCecil Hhmlr* vrilkA Uronlr Munir. his "Bur B*m" 1o future prfanr minfetcr* nf thr Vmitn n\ Sciuth

AfrifR, Ihmish Ihr I limn ««HC w» noi ytl fnrrntcl when he %\M in l«03. Thr oridnal irructurr. built

by early Dutch wolrr- iur mum (torm*. Inarm! in Rhmlr* tad it rebuilt with JO roomn. Ijui imlv

Iwd Ujlhi lil> uwn Uillilutt. nit Irani a tfhKlr mini 1 W»'rk »i marble*. i> .n t il I ihrir.

lie*t species of gladiulu,*, Inhclin. ^ernninm,

rnnricnltl and live ulkt lily; African violets

air among our musi popular house, phmt* *

When the Mayor of Cape Town, the Hon*orable Frit/ Iniiinenbere. (save u*f a rvrrption

at City Hull, we noticed hi* rooms were pnn-

rirrl in it handsome Itehi-bmwn wwl beau-

tifully carved aad rubbed in a satin finish.

Stinktvood Makes Fine Furniture

"What kimJ ..f wood i< that.'" I ad»(J.

IVs Minkwitod.'" &uM the Mayor wJt sot

the name bvCAUdX ft rriilly Minks when it'*

first cut. 11*5 bwn user! fur fine Furniture

and decoration from ihe very bejuumn^, hut

It's t:eitifii! 5CJirtr now and very expensive."

Thr an httcesure of ("ape Town s older

houses, colonial Hutch .inil Brltfah Vuinrbn,rn alb ihe diy* l>ut<li and Knulihh pait.

From here un I found Hie infliiem cS; of both

countries *in>rtff .il] ihniujih South Africa,

Many dialect* $ft *pokrn In Cape Town,but the I wv> official langiuiffes arc Kngfch and

Afrikaans. 1hr Litter a nwidi'fied form of Mulch.

Both uxe LiU!*hl In schools and universities

and are required of ,i!J Ciuveninient office-

holders. They appear together on everything

from 5tarn 15 and Mreet signs to airport regu-

lation* BOC dinner menu*.

Smith Africa Iiun yet in wive the politkal

and <<K laI pn>hfrni5 rwinR [mm it< rnisture mmany racea. colors, and rrliaiuns* In Tapetown ? greets, modern South \fri<an.^nf Brit-

ish. Dutch, nnd Frrnth anresfty hru*h shoul-

ders with native Uamitw and Zulu5. anil with

Mahiy.-fi and lnduui&.

Mo«juef and minarets rise above the Mos-

lem quarter a? reminders of Malay slaves

bfouithl !n tin* Rest wave* of scttlenwnl. Tur-

ItLtnrd Ilidiynj? pass veiled Malay women ami

Cape Cotourtft a mixture so lachlened that

Mime ?etm while.

In all South Africa, in fact, the vital Sta-

Itstlcfl tell a si^nirlciint -u-ry: 2,600.000 whites

and IO.O00.U0CJ native Africans and other dark

rareiTo me. pari* of Cape Town had a dbtinct

Bnglifh flavor. I hrard inany fJxtord accent*;

I ate Rnsli^b ptiddiiitf: and ;i|jovt all I rlrauk

tea -tea for breakfast, lea at I0:.*0 r ten for

•See "Tin W»rM in Y-iur tMfimf hy V HCumpu Xtruix.u {taumu-uir SiuiAo&L Juty, VH7

Safari Through Changing Africa

lunch, tea at 4 o'elnrk—tea. lea everywhere^Fortunately, We like l;wt.

To the ea>1 arid nurth of Cape Tiwn the

Knyli-tli influence i.-- lew dominant, Hiving

pine* to Ptttih and French. This Is winecountry. Here the- niuuntnlii slope* and fer-

tile valleys aTe covered with vineyard*, andMime id the wine- are world-famous.

Land of Vineyards Mountains

The Dutch settkd here in the J frsa's andfound the rolling, sunlit countryside lileiil for

grcmiiu! grapes, A Jin U- Liter an influx «f

"French Huguenots added their centuries-old

wiiic-making skill.

I'aarl is the tenter of today's wine andbrandy Industry. A hospitable town, it

drowsed in the »un as *r rtcove along its 7-mile

"Main Street. Despite the IhHch name, the

whitewashed walls, tall. pointed cypresses,

ami talk of gmpes and vintages made me think

of southern France.

The first importune vineyard* in the area

were planted by Shium van der Slel, one of

the pioneer Dutch uuvrniurs. We vislied his

home, ftroot Constantia, which has been rc-

>tnied iih a museum, [t is a coolfcwhite man-

sion with curved and curlicued tape Uutchgables shaded by stately old oaks.

Ln the; rear of the house we saw dark, cave-

like rooms without windows, once used asslave quarters. Here the slaves were linked

up at night. Near by ran a stream wherethey washed iheit feel when It came time tu

trample out the grapes.

Van der SieJ's vineyard.* art *till producing.

The Sunn African Government now operates

I be Grout Cunstantia homestead ;ls a modelwine-rrrnkinp center.

\nothcr monument to Van der Sicl is the

near-hy city of Stellenbutth. width hi- foundedin 107°. Fmm the Universaly of .StcLlc-nbosch,

ccater of Afrikaans speech and culture, haveCnnie three South African Prime Ministers,

imluding the Lite Jan Christiaan Smut*.Sight-seeinc trips around the Tape Penin-

sula may lum up anything front granite tem-ples to mischievous baboons.

The Ttmpte on Pvvrr* Peak

Skirting Devil's Peak, we drove souththrough Li n i J once owned liy Britain -4 empirebuilder. Cet.il Rhodes. He left a htnje rotate

In the country he helped found His awnhouse, ttroote Schuur. he Impieadied a.* theofficial residence of prime minister* uf the thenunborn Union of South Africa (page I T.S >.

Ofl I he slopes of Devil's Peak above GrooteSthuur the Sonth African fiuvernnwnt hasbuilt an Impressive temple in his memory.Xtttr by stands the University of 1'apc Town,housed in white classic buddings.

At the university we picked up a professor

who was to diow us a bird sanctuary in t.'apr

This, a watery area north of False Bay.

On the way we had our first look at a South

African bird that wu> to become very fa-

miliar— the ikkbird, or Cuttle ejjrH. It was

perched on a cow, searching for lick* amiother injects scared up a> ihe animal walked

aluns?. Within the past year cattle egrets

have been fnund in Honda and north lo CopeMay, Srw Jersey, rind even Svw England.

The sanctuary is nilled Scncoo by the Eng-lish, from the Dutch word ztrktw, whii h

means ^sea cow." The name aoes back to a

time when hipjxipQtJunuses [gotprtimei re-

ferred Ui by older South Afrkum fWrows") (i.Hiliil themselves In its water?.

The liijijutf hiive foirg since been killed off,

but we found the low, marshy land and cloud-

less sky daik with birds—pelicans (white with

black wins ltptt) P

herons, galls, teres, andegrets, There were tools, nvocrls. stork.<

(both black and whlieK and many kinds of

ducks and plover, ns well as the sv.dlows

width we were to find all over Africa,

We were fascinated by the show, since for

AO years we have made our liorrie outside

Washington a siactuary (or N'urlh Americanbirds.

Wr rVcognfaed one id the Seacoo visitors,

the arctic tern, as an old friend and worldtraveler. Every year thi* bird flies from t lit*

tip of Africa and other southern areas to rast-

ern Canada and greets us ,il our summer homeni Bnddeck, 2s'ova Scotia. lis route, Almost

II,OUt) miles, is the Jon^st ot anv miemton-bird.

Hew »re rh* "Friendly" Baboons

At the end of the spectacular ilarioe Drive,tut in spots through solid rock high above the

breakers, we came to the Cape of CicmkI Hope.There, on the great barren rocks that plunge050 fret into the *ea. a band of bibwins, iJie

"Tape clowns/' stinwj bctwixn us and the openocean, There were bi^, medium-sized, amiiiitlr lialnwns, and wnw tiny ones clinging to

their mothers.

They were curious and seemeid friemlly andeven approached us to hr£ for ioorl But theyare pranksters, and wo were Ma rueti not in

leave the cur without cbsfng ibe windnw«.Not long before, liabuons had torn the tq>

hotster>' nf an Open air to bits.

Early one maraing we flew from C'upe 'J'own

to Oudt-jhoorn, center of the u.-trh Iw-hmiil!

industry. Whnt gold is sr. Johaimi'sl.uru. the

ostrich is !» this dr)" inhtnd rrgbm. BeforeWoild War l

?when the demand fur plumes

wits at peak, this sect km of the Cape Province

was known around the world.

Then Pari* modistes decreed hnts without

The Manorial C ieo^rapliii. Maga/incISO

plume*. The bottom dropped out of The mar-ket And fortune* were Ik, until Oorlishtvirns

ostrich l>rtrtMJi-t> learned to supplement thcrr

feather business with other activities—dairy-

ing, farming, anil sheep mUlnis

Ostriches provide more than feathers. 1*6**

ever. For morning tea under -hady pepper

trees at KM' ostrich farm, I tried •"(rich-meat

hnrs il Wuvrw, a form of biltong, grated andserved on erackera. Lt was dark brown, crisp,

sally, and shghlty sandy.

One K4A Serves 2-1 People

Fur lurteh We uir i*trteh-ege omelet. Os-

trich eges are much richer than hens' eg^s.

but ihey provide the perfect answer in rase flf

uuexpeeied jruesis: rjne ostrich egg ran *erve

I A to 24 people!

"We use just about everything, from feath-

ers" Uj toenails, saW our hostess, "Tlie Ulife*

nails and sometimes the fed are made into

ashtrays. Even the skin make- eviellenl kind-

bags and siloes. Bui only the male*—and the

best breeds—give lis the valuable black and

white plumes fur capes, fans, and toils. Thefemales' feather? are dull Gray. We makedusters nut of them."

There are now an estimated 25.000 bird* onabout 200 farms tn thr Oudtshoorn area Dry.

sunny conditions then- ;md room for the os-

triches to race about purrt- ul.uly I ivor I he in-

dustry Bui there are many tricks to This

trade.

Ostriches ran he nuioyinn. undrpendaHecreatures- Mortality is high among the chicks,

and adults tend to have accident*: they try

to eat the inedible or they fall Into botes and

break their Je£5.

Ostrkhes do not male until they arc three

or four years old. Incubation of ege: Ii-i-

hx weeks I hiring thL* time the cork lakes

turns with the hen in sitting on the nest.

We saw hundreds of baby ostrich** about

the size of turkey? Different u«r ur.»upv ate

kept In separate enclosure;* for the protection

of the smaller ones.

When the time cornea for plucking, farmers

pull the b% birds by their necks into a penwith n shepherd's crook. Extreme care mustbe taken to keep from breaking the ostrich's

delicate neck. During the plucking process

a cover is often slipped over the bird's head,

"No*" Someone answered my question, "It

doesn't hurt the ostrich to pick his feathers

any mnrc than It dors a man to get a hair-

cut."

Though ostriches can't fly. they make good

speed em the ground. They sometimes race

around the corrals at 25 miles nj\ hour or more.

Teased into dancing and flapping their

stubby wings, they make a comic *ight. Uutadult cock ostriches are far from harmless.

One we watched was particularly nervous nor!

hel liferent. When an attendant poked at him.

be struck out suddenly with his powerful legs.

"They've been known to rip u man open with

those heavy na.il>, the farm manam told u*.

I tHkfii'nj a man riding an ostrich around the

Corral.

"It's not hard,'" they told me, "Try U."riimhinp. up on my steed. I found it rather

precarious, with notbhnir tn hold to but a

handful of fluff (page 17 1 >-

On The other band, it's somethmjE of an ex-

perience to pluck feathers fmy haul was twohandsome feathers, one black and one white)

from ones mount.Between Oudishonrn's desertlike country

and the ki>h couMlands along ihe Indian

Omm rise the Outenii|ua Mountains. Oiiteni-

qua means, in Hottentot language, "lattte

Brown Man Who Brings Honey from the

Mountains."

Across the high, narrow passes of this ramie

many of »he Bori pioneers maaiiueil <oinehow

to drive their on teams and heavily laden

w.i^nn* intu the open veld beyond. I.ike

America's western settlers, these Voortrekkcrs

endured great hardships in their search for

land and freedom. Their daring was rivaled

only by that nf the engineers who litter built

magrdlkeiit highways over these same narrowpasses.

Driving south, in a series of awesome turns

and twists over Montagu Pass (page 18b),

we left the arid hinterlands behind to follow

South Africa's "Harden Route."

This lovely s1 retch of coastal roads windsbetween the mountains and the *ca. Heredeqvgreen forest* alleinate with fields' andgaruYas. Thousands of varieties of flower*

and ilnwerine. shrubs line the way.Farther along come panoramas of seaside

cliffs, white beaches and blue lagoons, andocean-fronting resorts, with howling greens,

golf courses, and tenuis courts.

Honrymonners, retired Kiitflfshmen. and vj

canonist* from llie warmer African regions

flock to the garden playground. We stopped

at land'* end, in Ihe popular scenic resort

bote) mcongruously called "Wilderness.'"

The Ronduvcl—Africa's Motor Court

The proprietor, Mr. Owen Grant, has beena member ol the National tieoxmphic Society

for It years. He came to South Africa fromEngland in 1900 and was one of the engineer*

who helped build the country' s mountain-climbing railways. Re was a pflot in WorldWar 1 and still flies his own plane. When 1m

visited New York several years ago. he rented

a small airplane tm fly himself and Mrs. Gruntaround the eastern States.

While my husband played golf wfth him on

• ]il>c Pmhl'* H«H:kv Mntc-r \lurk«d \ iih'A du C rainy'* Pnvsaite tn India

At tlsr very a| C»pr Pen in«i Ia |«min ilir Cap* r.( C.u.t Hi |«r urnl C-i|i* t'uuit (f»rruc<iuml> TWCalm wnlrf af tfsht U FaJsc Buy NViirmrd |#>* it cutoiu trnm itw ledum Ocean, it is hanl wnh bathing rr-

Kiits. Un ilic kit tlit >tormy AUanlic. colli even in <u miner, bivuks *#iintf thu rottlk

a course uenr Africa's1

Ifp, I went swrnrninjr.

in the warm Indian Ocean with Mrs. Grant

\nd it was .11 YVilderne* that w« met our

&r»t African finula veL

This is not some rlr.in^i* wild Itcusl 1ml fl

mtuII iwesthoiise. built In ibr rfrctilar shapeof a nti live hut (pa^e |9N). Iarvury fmdavelvwith fine furnishtms, elceiridty, and runningwater, rank wish the t>esl C S, motor ou-urte.

Snath Africa hu> its *hare of thuie, too.

Through Vast Primeval Fnrcytv

On rhr Garden Home nearer rn port K1Lta-

beth we drove -all dJtjr through vaM forest

preserve*. Some were standi nf eucalyptus

trees: others were the hiitfily jiri/ed «t inkwoodanil South African yeilowwuucL The city of

Khvmu, on the edee of the forest, is a uic&y

lumbering center

In the mysUTknj* urern depth* of r.he wood*

live some of the largest rlephant.& in Hie world.

Only a remnant of the once mighty hen I re-

nmtas,

Wt saw no elephant*, but in rhc near In

forest we found the famous kiuu forward \ II

tree, ll is a native South African yellow-

wond. 137 feet tnll. Iu age b eMim;iied nl

Iwrlween Ifi unci 17 Centuries -surely one of

the oldest living things in South Africa!

I'..rt raijuJielH. 1 50 mile* Cu the east, Wasnamed for the wife of iui early .Britten pov-

ernor o| thr l "ape t'ohmy, Sir Kufant (lonkfri.

l-ady Uonkrn died its I firth without ever

seeing Africa. After her husband tuid out

the new town in 1S2Q, he had a small monu-ment rateed on a hill near the [N«rt.

'''fit the memory nf one of the most perfe< I

of human lielngs . . says the bn\i\w pluuur

*fc~iiKibetn Frances, Lady Oonkin, died

in the l"|t]HT Hindoi^lnn of a fever on ttMAuiiUM. 3HI8. ajied not qcfte iS years. Sbeleft an Infant in his seventh month loo younyto koqw the irreparable Ins* he had sustained

nnd a husband whov heart h- -till wning byiltiilfniihlrdied mirf He erect it! this p.vrunikf.

Aiigiwl. 1820/"

Tort ElfB.il>flh I* a modern. faM-irrrtvviliK

town of 199J0O Ipuze I72>. It has scores

2 - -a

a a> £if

9

!5

ES

Tlic National Geographic Magazine

uf new industries, but shippou: U the bin

business; \\ is Smith Africa's rbfrd Ittgcvl

port. Canned pineapple £rum here funis Its

way to the urocery Mure in our Nova Scotia

summer home.Along this caul , ns in I hi* West Indies,

hopeful fortune-seekers are always fitting nut

expeditions to find lost treasure. Our morn-

ing |k&(>er lokl of .1 venture just KeHinK under

way between port Elisabeth and Ihulmn. It*

object was lo bring up gold front the Kan I.

fudiaman. the Grotvcnvr* wrecked tn 1782.

It would he well worth salvaging' The ftOO-

lon (/fi'jT'rmrf sailed ftom TruKomuli-e. Oy-lun, in Joaifcary, -Mxurd wo* a fabulous

irea.we; gold, silver, ivory, preeiouf* stones,

and coins, valued then at $10,000,000. Besides

tbesr* the ship also may have carried iwn

jewd-enrru^d Rolden peacocks, (mm the

throne uf the Gnat Mugul at \ew Delhi. Thethrone was Once valued at £35,000,000.

So loaded, the kVimrmu, a floating I reus-

ujc client, ran into bud weather off I'oudoland,

about 30 mile* northeast of what '& now Port

St, John*. WhIjstiI in rock* only n few hun-

dred yards offshore, she was urolteri up by

heavy seas.

Scare then, several n I tempts li.iv I tern madetu rescue the treasure. Une group in I"06

tunneled under the sea bed to within 40 feet ol

the wreck, then quit ion luck of cupital.

fiir. uidy it (civ corns, some broken china. and

some mated guns have ever l>een found.

"Thank* t» Mr. IMPEven more o( a surprise than the story

about the Grarvtnar was another newspaper

headline: "Thanks to Mr. Bell." By roiud-

detice we had arrived just as the city was in-

augurating a new automatic telephone ex-

change. Id sera: J.000 new subscribers.

The "thanks"' referred to ray father's inven-

tion of the telephone 76 year? earlier. With

it was ftpage-lone and unusually acmrate

hifiuraphical sketch.

Mv husband ami I visitrd the rditurrnl

• •mrc- "1 "hi" newspaper, thr h:.tt*rn Province

ff&utd, to thank il* editor*. Ii was mid-morninjt when we arrived, and we found them—of course!—having tea. After introduction*

they risked us to join them The next daythe Hrrtrfd had another story with a picture

and a three-column headline:

"P. E. Telephone Switch Coincidence:

Inventor Bells iJaughier in t"iiy*i

But if dial telephones symbolize modernAfrica, one Mtfhl I saw in Port Elisabeth wasstraight from the jungle. In the heart of

town lies a shrub- and plaiit-lilled pit wherehundred.* of live snakes writhe and crawl,

mil ami uncoil. We watched Johannes, a.

veteran native attendant, dressed in heavy

gloves and leggings, handle the puff adder*.

I'ape culiriis, hiKimslajitia, areen .tod htuik

mambuH, ami oilier venomous snakes.

A job in Snake Park not for the timid

Johannes and other men whi» kh uiIt. the pit

are often bitten. They survtvc only because

of snakebite serum, quickly administered,

We had vMted "5n;ike parks1

in other cities.

iiHlmlintf the famour- ones, in Sao Paulo, Bru-

zil, and Miami, Florida, They are more than

just tourist aitrncttons. Port IWxabeth'fr rep-

tiles are rceuLiriy "milked ' of thdr poison

for use in making antiraiins. iJurinj; WorldWar I] the serpentorium cutletled venom for

H*rum to protect the lives of Allied soldiers:.

Durbufw I.fincl) OurjKut to World Port

We flew neM to Durban, .South Africa's

leading seaport, with a population m* 17 5,0^0.

It has many factories, and 3Is wharves are

busy and crowded; yet it has beautiful resort

hotels aJnitg its water front, Tint, clean

beaebes, and a wonderful warm sea wind.

Ottly 125 yearn sro ft was a Jondy British

outfMMi. The Lu ill around tt then wo* Mill

rnliij by Zulu kin^t whose fierce warriors,

thousands strong, had fou)>hl bloody battles

with the early settlers.

Here the South African street scene, familiar

To me by now. Linages. Snu«ll-fealurrd In-

dian woinrn wait by in gold anil la%,emleraar«. Kxplorlnu sidr lanw. f foufld descend-

ants of Zuhi warriors sellrnR nunc potions

and charms alotiir with mvalies—naltvp earn.

tn n shetl mnrkel we saw samples af the

old Zulu rmfUs—beadwork, feathers, and bas-

ket weaving. Nest to them were delicate

ivory carving* marie by thf Indians, relative

ni'Wi orners to Africa (puRe \QQ).

"We have the larsest Indian communityof any city outside India," a fiurhanite told

us. it atoned in the ISoO's. when The >uuat

Lrrouer-. 1-eu.m importing indentureit workrrs

from India fm their planiaiiaail. Xow weh«vr Hindu teiopJe*. bwaarts. and even fire

walkers and -.h.ikr i hannefS."

Substitnlc (or Witch pOCCori

In Durban we visited the AtcCord ZuluHospital, one of South Africa s first hospitals

exclusively for noii-Kuropftin patient*.

\i» founder was hr. James It. Mc<.'nrd. anAmerican medical missionary who rame In

Natal in 1599. The Zulus, when lie arrived,

still depended on witch doctors to cure their

Ilk. Dr. McCord devoted the next 40 yean*

to hrlnejmi them moilem medical care.

Hr. Alan Taylor, who has headed the hos-

pital since lir. McCorrl retired in 1940, andMrs. Taylor, who is a Canadian, proudly

showed us ihrouch the modern 6-story winp.

From n collage clink where Dr. McCord once

C *Btirai «-«r«.r.ii' taWi ;ss k-u, 111 . . i. ii.m..-i i.

Bull Giraffe Takes a l-offy View from u R.i.uisidc in Kru^er F'ark

Zulu call the praiTc indMinUmiir, or 'he tfcmi »utp«yn'i in*? ' Sunn- uduN nmh aic rnwfr Hum 1r krt liUI (pofic

IQ4). The author and h« husband faiiii tu bJim t||t= ambulant d*,yrft™p<'r from the path <il Ihcir air.

Mnckrn Highway* Cut Thnuifib Muontiiini YrMirtrckkcr* Cnrs^'J in fKcarH

Brtvrrm Jwaiih Alrta\ hii;h inland (ilalcnu .mil KHjlbrni «umoi»t ihe Outenlqui Mi'imtatm rsu> n. lor-

Urfiliug nu]r-bl«h imII Bovr pwnctn, drivlrw th*ii catilfi Wore trwm an.l hautiiu: Lbdr lujatclnild «M'"W

Lii oxcurfe. Lhfkkftl nonhwuni over lUw rocky parses In vuh-b t>f nwe InnrL Now omm hav* inwotht-d

lir wj>. The julhm t|rc»t'f «v»'4 M^nkUKM P*«* to *n Amerkun or luurmliltxl lit Stiuifa Africa.

successfully performed a brain operation on a

kitchen tabic tm come l(Hinyrs wdl-niuipped

hospital operaLed by trained personnel, native

and white.

One nl iJr. McCurd's problems especially

La the early years, was die Kreitt diversity of

native dialects, a difficulty found throuKhout

must of Africa. Hb nurses, for example, to

in Ik to all of their jatieni_v linl In know

nut only Englbh oul six different dialects

spoken within LOO miles of DurhamEverywhere went, from the children*!

ward to the veranda*, w-herc men by on she

Boor, Zulu style, patients and nurses Listened

rapily to Dr. and Mrs. Taylor's words.

\Ve accept not onh Zulus/' he told us,

but Indians dnd all olher nun-Europeans we

can find room for. N"> IwiS Durban

Indians theni*elves lullevtcd funds for a Ma-

hftTmn Gandhi Ward.*

Smttli Africa'» Own I*«mI ttc^cre

Twrotv vears l>efote tl\t first Indians came,

the fate of the infant ]*>rt of Durban btytg in

ihe balance. It wo* decided by an KnylL-h

I'aul Revere.

We heard the sU>ry out at Ihe city's Old

Fnrt. ITcre, at what is now a veterans? homeraid luxuriant gardens, ihe British set up fl

military camp in

A clash fullwed with the n**i«hl mring

Butrs, who had recently csuibhVhed their ownliriidijuarter* At I'ictcrmaritxburg. 'Die friers

besieged the British garriwn and hupolevlv

outnumbered it. An K«i;li>h settler at Ihe

fort, young l>ick King, volunteered to ride for

reinforcements*

His word was GnrinniStuwn. 600 miles awayover the tortuous mountain and jumde tfaiU

of hb lime, Despite hostile iMlivrs, wild

animuta. and crocodile-infested river?, he madeit in 10 days. Durban was saved (or Ihe

British, who pay their reacts to King and

his horse in an equestrian figure on ihe es-

planade.

Mbtoring inland to Hrteemaritthjr^. nowt jipiul oi Natal we fr.unH ihe Muhli -ute nf

the struggle, Tlw city itself is'tuttutd for twotfout Boer lej tiers. 1'iet Retief and Gert

MarjtJL In it? Vnortrekker Museum visitor?

an yee relics of the Greai Trek of tlie mid-

I8iG s. when hundreds of Botrs migrated north

to escape It filter, rule

KortheaM of Pirternmriuljurg stretches

Sajart [ hrougli Changing Africa

present -day Zululand, a ICOiJO-yiUftrc-mil^ re-

seriv uf immd beehive huts and eatlrc kraals.

The once warlike Zulus have hung tip thfir

spears la follow peaceful pursuits. There art1

few men aiuurwJ the kruaK a.* they are em-

f«Iuv piJ in the hfinhifoiiii^ ritit-5. Zulu womenas a rule slay home and grow vegetables.

Near thr Zulu capital, F.shuwe. wr stopped

ut the primitive hut mf a welt-known native

sculptor. Nuili. This young man has refused

templing offer* to came to the city and |irrir-

lice his art. Uf prefers to follow the tribal life

of bb ancestors. Hi- mode-It are Zulus and

tffld animal? of vetil and bush. Hi* hut has

no windows and no chimney. Hut with clay

riuhl oulnErie his door and wfytffl Ut cvltiv.il-'

his fields, he lias everything he needs In makeliini liappy. His statuettes sell for good prii cs,

M\ti be can Sell all he nuke*." I'hcsiraHy. ihe Zulus are different from

white Jfreople." he «n'd. "Their le^ and even

their ears are shajied difTcrenlly. I prefer to

stay here and model my own [wuplr."

I saw primeval Africa, wild and niisjwMled,

at Hluhluwe Garrw Reserve, deep in Zulu-

land.*

Hluhluwe \\he- name tneans "Xand of ihe

Thorny Climbing Plant" and is pronounced"5hloo-sh|n*wee '

i is y -fn.tiOU-acre reserve

*el aside by X-ila[ Province. Wild animalsroam through il jufi i> they did before while

men came to Africa.

As we drove alunjc the winding road into the

barbed-wire enclosure of the reservation, wccounted IT kinds of animate we had never

«*e» laefore. Il was near dusk, which, Elfcu

dawn, Ua likely lime lo find the beasts coming

(Rit of thr bush to drink and feed.

Gnu Lunks Like u I turned Horse

By the side of the road an ugly Utile wart

hog trotted, its spiky tail held hitfh. Wcpassed a wildebeest, or gnu—familiar to cross-

word piuzle farm—which looked like a frolick-

ing In ir ii \wih horn-- Then some iimeli^ies,

iniluriiiin aji iiup.da, lossuiu graceful lyre-

shaped horns, ami a big kudu, with narrow

vUnte stripes (pau;e IS2).

We caught a glimpse of a hyena or twoslinking through the underbrush. A duiker,

another kind of antelope, about 26 inches

high, leaped ncrt»js our road. A waterhucfe

«uj*iJ ai us inquiringly and bounded away,Ms rear marked with ft white circle its if hehad -ii! down on a freMds painled toilet Seat.

A Httlr farther tilnni; wo spotted a ffrotip

of black rhinos quietly grazing. We were nol

fooled by their peaceful appearance: rhr blackrhino. When disturbed, is unpredictable andMlremrly asgrcasive.

"If CWte of them should charge you whenvoure «» foot." we had been warned, "it's a

my\inm\ ideal l\j xi^zas as you run, like a ship

when a submarine ch&wes ft. khinn* have |>iof

cyeshtM and can see only straight ahead"Nevertheless, my husband decided lo try

for » picture. Stopping the cur, he pjf oui andedged closer to the great beasts while I looked

on anxiously. Then, as he raised his ramera,

une of the larger rhinos turned toward himand moved ominously forward.

I shouted a warning from the car Hepaused long; enoujih for one more picture, then

jumped into the car. The driver slqipeil cm

the accelerator and we sped away.

Hum for a While Rhino

The animal we particularly wanted to see

and phoio?r:tph at Hluhluwe is one of the

rarest in the wnrld: the white rhinoceros. Afew carefully protected groups are still left

on these primitive acres,

"You can tell them easily from the black/'

said Capt. 1 tarold Potter. F.R.Z-S.. ZuluIandVlean and sharp-eyed Gnme Conservator. "Thewhile ones are lancer and heavier and some*

whut lighter in color, thouf*h they're not

re-tllv white: and they have a square jaw.

The black ha- an ovrrhanuing lip. AIwx the

white rhino freib on pra«. whfle tlie black

fi*ed5 on Ttvp shoots."

The visitor"* (amp nt Hluhluwe is a group of

cottages and rocdavebc. A kitchen is provided

but gue\ts have to briny their own fnnd. Acandle by the bed-d-de is a reminder that the

camp's electric liiihtsgo oul al 10 p.m*

Hoping to see a white rhino, wc were upand oul at dawn. Wc had to depend on our

chaufFetir to find the animate, often only dimly

visilile tn the btuhy Jun^le.

Onr car nmved on to a ru»id that was little

on ire tkui a path, aad finally Into a tree-dotted

valley.

"Ij«ife!" exclaimed the driver. 'While

rhinos under the thorn ireef! >\x of theraJ"

Afifain my husband had hi* camera ready,

and he pot an unusual picture, since white

rhinos are ^eldirm .seen in i^roupa larger than

two or three (paste They are less ai^res-

rfve than the black ones, despite the fact thai

I hey wel^h ab"-ui a ton more and have anohnfjft armor-plate skin.

Some of the most interesting rrsidenls of

Hluhluwe. to mtf, were Ihe hombills. larue

birds with great hornlike beaks and a very

odd family life. There are several varieties,

ami most of them follow the same peculiar

<u-tom: at nesting tinte the female, with the

help of the male, walLs hernlf up with mudmade a hollo* leer, Only Q small hole is left.

through which the male feedtf her and the

•Srt* •Ttownlne Alrfca'i t'nfrrueil Z^ns" by WKobcrt Moom, X*n*y*l Gcocn«pLur Mwjurvi.M.rrli. K'SO.

Six White Kliinu*,

n Ryr* SijGhi. GrazeBonujth Thorn Tree*

el the lew pljirn In Africawhrrc I he while rhinorrrott can

(till ]}%> found. U vrrirt only-.liniiLlv in tutor finm tht hlui L

«<|wi.'U% but orbrr riifjgrpnrm

hjc market*, WWe rhjnoi iwfjif m«rr bulky, have LtruAd

wul rui ftrna Micksarr easily itcobiuuxI by thrli

narrow*! muriles and ovw-h.insinz Up; they fcetl i>n tree

I'nJlae Hit smaller, lil-

trinprrrd i-tmatn. it* whitertiin» is oat vvty iiRpr<*nf«.

Mr. Gnm'cnurs pfctou»iir.i|jti

rcrorrh an ummuHy UnamiTiiher of the rare TmuWxNoriiLaJIy tho iiir Inunii ulun*

nr m -rrtiujif nl lu-u tit* |.hn»,

0.;in-. Impair axe the niml

abundant antetopr Lrt KnxcexPa-ik. Food ol taaiuauv, theyalien ea!b.-i' In Irnapa ol l<ib

or nmrc. When friVlitnnrd,

ihr animal* ilavh avajr withtrOrJiiaoui leap*. tailim: rffurt-

rvl> uvrr bushes, focIcl, andravines Keri- « tensr hrrdtioU ucruH the vi'lri «vwjnia favorite fit««ntf itfttt*

KM»f"»mt« nr OUiiKia OmiTOuii

Indian LuUio Sirnll |3mvn u Ptirliirfut^e Sidewalk in Hani Africa

ItiilUnv wtfc fii\f iai(M»ricil In lunw numlwr* lmlctitu»ni lubortrc lo work

Mt *|J^jiv plantations. cCurliirii atwwil IKfiO. Now. u< farmer*, IraoYr*. dia[*

koopta, moitPilefHlerv and a* irtirkcr* in mun> ollirr j«tiv Ibr.y iorm aniwpurtanl pari of Africa** ^jpuliitUin SctWJi AfnVa alon* lu* J50JXHJ .Indians

fpucc !S4>; fllriii*h EuM rtirlbti ?00,GQ0. These women walk in LounoHp*\Lut|U«i. capital ill Pcutacuwe Mnratnbkju*.

Iilque. Provincial

Mum-urn hat* a hue hat-

urn! history col kclton,

reaUstiraily mounted

and out in the npen ki

children ran touch thi'

animal* if they want 10.

Here we were able lo

identify 11huh bird* we

hnd recently seen.

I'url Icularly inlrrrM -

feg wns n small bfcrd

tilled the common honey

jruide. which ovri|»et:it«i

with other animals in

getilnic lo ihc cunfeiil*

ol the wild bcei* nr.* 1.

This liird cries andchirps to puiile |ieop|e

or h<Miey-eatinf» annuals

tu thr source* ol honejr«

Then, when the hive is

openeif. it gathers its

share of the loot. both

honey and was.

The hnnry guttle maypossibly prove In lie ftn-

pOrttnt I" niwliml ali-

enee, we learned Liter.

Mr. Herbert Frteffruflnn,

Curator of Bird?, at lite

C. 5. Nuii"nnl Mntount

ill Washington. D. C. ts

making a «*mriy of ihr

honey guide'* peculiar

habits. srmietEimsj For several month*. Finally,

when the youtiy are ready to By, ihr mother

knocks down, the wall.

Secretary Bird Wear* a tjoill Pen

Wither mill ileniren of Ffluhliiwe is the

wrpiary bird, known only rn Africa. It uebi

its name from iliff blftck head feathers thai

look murit lite quills worn behind the car of

an iJith-century clerk To complete I he Il-

lusion it ha* Miiik feather* c«»verin« it upi«r

le-jjS, like vrkct knee breeche-. and pink-

MiicfcinuHl1

lower lea*.

The sei retary bird is nol so mildly clerk-

fik<* in it* habits, however. Slalkinc veld and

wood* for it* prey. It may tEWQpp down on a

*nake, lift it hiuh in the air. mid drop it to the

ftmund tret ore clown*! in for the kill.

Kram TTlutiluwr ue took a side trip north-

ward to Uinreni;n Marque*, capilid and sea-

purt of thr |\irtu^uese Province of Moaim-

ubility |o diut^l was.

This may provide a method ii uttaikiiis ihr

waxllke envelope that protect* tuberculosis

j^ernih from meditation.

Mozambique has been I'otttipuejp continu-

ously for fnor and a half eenrurhrs. rliouuh the

rarJy wMtlrnieni* were only scnltemJ for-

lress*N aloni; the coast. Va»ci> ila Ciaina. in

March. K°8. W&kH into the Arah-helti port

of alctxanibtque during his original histianc

trip tQ India around the Tape.

Uoo'i Va% the Lion*

cDon*t btilhe; there -are often crocodiles in

the Miudlrs: pni.il* l>on i hrrnnie alnrniet] if

linns stand and sutre at your car . . . Thelion's nose telU hftn al once thar a car b not

KOOd lii eat ... Don't imakiine beCJiuse the

lioiu arc patfivc . . . thai you can «o up ami

pat them,"

Such we routine iiurtruttfons for visitori to

K nigra National Park, wurld-famuus ftame

Safari Tlimugli Changing Africa

preserve. Without our steel-bodied car wewould not have been admitted. Visiles, fnr

safety, arc furbtdchm frum mtmlcring abouti m fciot. bicycle, ur horseback, or after dark.

Krufter F;irk. on the eastern border nr

Transvaal Province, was star! tn 1 in IS'.'K

through ihe vffniii of the Bort statesman.

Pari Kruger. whu wa* then president of llic

independent South African Republic

Here, in mi area nearly PS large 95 Mii^.v

1 huselTs Miuidr-r etrnhnnU, inraffes. hippo-

fmiatniisrs, zebras, and antelopes of all kinds

Ivrugers lions ore famous but frmtetlmes coy,

Kvrn fur llie RritLdi royal party in 1047 none

made an appearance

With our host, wperintepdent HT C. van

der Veen, we «-t nut i>ne morning just :i> liirht

Wfl* brrnkinK- We |>a*see[ a jungle <%.avruger.

the bckid. ruid liken q herd of antelopes

grazing «3 peacefully as cows (pimc 136).

Honking at the kiruj nf Ileasta

Suddenly a lawny shadow loomed ahead of

d 1*, and we almost drove over two blase lioti-

Hiretrherl out in the mad. Thev hud evidently

finished hrrnk(n*fi.—fierhar^ nn one of the

herd we hid josl seen— and wen too lazy to

Get up. They ticked their chipp* and paws,

looked JU U5 itlpercilHiusly, and rolled over in

the rliiM, Finally, after we had photographedthem, w r shouted and honked owr horn at

them. They got up leisurely and moved to

llii' side of 1he road anil lay down, asJin to

finish their nap <paee loT ).

We turned a corner, and there by the side

of the road Mood :i iriarit inratfe, h;d lie-scarred

and mindly indifferent to IraftV <p »ge I SS i.

Bui that was only a Oose. He luniliered lie*

hind .1 iree and peeked ant at us from the verytop, first from one side, then the other.

"Sorry," Eftid Mr. van der Veen as wr drove

on, "thai you didn't see our stble antelope."

Almost as he spoke, several of these uiafi-

nifuent Ikmsis lomned in the Inch urass, astudy in black anil white and arched horns.

Hack M his attractive stone home -we foundthat even in this wilderness modern iovenlioiw

liave their pLitc,

"Malaria used to Im? n curse here at this time

of year," he .said. "Ever}1 year we sent ourchildren away for Ax months. Now, with the

dull) .spraying of I HIT, w> feel cjjfe enoughfrom the mosquitoes to keep even our two-

year-old baby with us."

Across the Traitsvan I we drove through mile

nfter mile of i»rrm and fragrant orange groves.

I hese trees, well over half a million of them,

belong to Zebethela. one of the largest citrus

estates in the world.

Zebediela "Vrn> and operate* its own local

railroad, factory . laboratories, ami hospital.

It hires more than .5,000 natives mid 500

Kurnpcam?.

The venture nrvw out of the during and

imagination of the late I W. SL'hleninger, whocarno 10 Jnhannedujrn from America a* :i

penniless immiaritni and started a chain of

Aiiccessful emerpri*es.

On an e^ploriny trip into ihe Transvaal

.^0 years ago, he saw the jM'^ihiiitiei of it*

rich ami virgin foil— if It could be supplied

with water.

Harked by vast sums of enterprise enpilal.

the SrhlrsinEer Onctnfcsttion cleared the land,

rtrunmrd near-by rivers, built irriuation chan-

iieU. and iHired deej> wcl'U-

A pohlen harvret wa* poimne forth w+ien an

epidemic of relapsing ftver T carried by a

so(L->hrlttNl tick tihttitkodorox ntont^tiit,

broke out nmuiig the workmen. The di«ai*r

threatened the very existence of II11* prniject-

It was checked only by Inirnine out ihe whole

vilLice, where thatclied rcwifs itnrl clay tloors

luirlxkred ttu* tick. Now the worker* live in

new lick-free houses made of coniTtte-

Zebediela'c ornnees are shipfiesd Ui other

parftof Africa and BWtfc M KntfLind IM the

Continent.

Suulh Africa tia* Three Capita

U

On nur way back to Johanne^bnrg westopped in Pretoria, capital of the Transvaal

and aflmfniHtnOive seal for all South Africa.

Its tree-lined ai'emtes and classic architecture

reminded me of Washington. I). C.

The I'nion of .South Africa, like the United

Stales, has \\s governmenl divulnl itito three

M-ajiviexib administmtim^ kgl^AUve Bid pi

rifrial. Bui. unliLr our yuvrrnmetit, in South

Africa each seumejit has its own capital city.

Pretoria w the home of South Africa's chief

executive, thr (Governor (ienerul r of Its C'ahi-

ret minKters and civil seirfce; it Ik aUo Ihe

resilience id foreign ifjjiloniftt^. Cape Ti»w» Uthe seat of the Leuir-lalure. .\nd Bloemfontein.

provincial capital of the Oranuc Krrc Stjcte. is

rlir luMilquaner* nf the national judiciary.

Paul Kmger, Ihe Horr fjuhtct whn founded

Kru^cr I'ark, lived and if* hurird in F'vetnria.

The cily litis preserved hia uld homestead, a

Foii^ iiiie-^ton* building, ju**t as i| win? in his

lime. 'ITierc visitor* ran gaze nt penainal

belongings and recall ihe m.»n, wilh hi- |>ipe,

cane, ami familiar tup hat; his Bible, and hti

Safari Through Changing Africa

knife with which he once amputated own

doner after a mm explosion had injured 11.

Pretoria's hune granite Voortrekt.fr Moim-

nii-Tit. unveiled m 1049, J* one of the mast

impressive I have seen. The centra! structure

holds rial lie.-; urui fritves ?hnwinR the history

of the Gnwi Trek, Surrounding It Li u defense

<:inic of sculptured tick wagons. From behind

rheir wagons the trek leers often foucht it out

with hostile natives, just ns American pioneers

hall ted with our western Indians.

IVrtrrria ha* root* in the past. Hut it is

also the I'nion LiiRe*t steel producer and

was the site «»f its first larpe*scale steel pro-

iluirlun.

-JiiTMirn" Miners Dance Off Stciuu

1 hiring «ur wnuid slop m Juhiirmtrfthurp

ivt> saw our IJudges t show. It njnus an Sun-

rlay. when the native worker? of the roW mine*

forge! they're ' civilized" and dance. to the

primitive rhythm* of their old tribal lite.

We watched the rlamhiff frnra seat* in it

lug M.iduim, similar to our own football bowl*.

There wu* room for nn audience Qi three or

faur iboUKUid people, with sections divided

lially between native and white spectators,

admitted free. The arena was turned over

to the dancers.

Tliey utire a fantastic assortment of bar-

baric finery— leopard sfcir.5, bead?, iHtrirh

feather*, nnd leg rattles. Most of ihi5 adorn-

ment wa* simply superimposed on their Euro-

Ilean work clothing

"It's the favorite. amu.wment|!<

said our

himi at the Rose Deep Mine on the c<lRr of

town. "But juM In rnnkr *urr that I hr fun

doesn't «et ttio violent, you'll notice (bit

spears are wooden."

Eadi tribal ^roup had its owe special

acx* pcfttartnu. kicking. advancing by jiunp*.

?Himpiaa*. whirling, or throwing ibemsriws on

rhe tfrotwd. Some of the dancm carried

rhinoceros-skin shield* wilh their wuudrn

£ttGftt% or poles ending in ostails which UHiked

like kitchen mop*Other?, wore bSfc, loose nihlicr boots. Tlwy

kept rhythm with these by knocking ihem to*

gether or ^lapphui them with their hands.

Musical instruments were quite ingenious.

There were drumhead* -rtrrtv hed acmss bar-

<- Foaming Water* of the l intern KiM'i

Plumfe MA FccE Down IlimicW 1-jlb.

This lii'.v cuUrauf, cimrr thua ttf'iir the Ldidit of

Mum Falls He* «>nly 15 miles JwihtvL'rt nf rhe

heart ot Pu-trrmuriutMLTb Nulal't pra\iudjl far4taJ.

HokuJc Fail«, like Xmrara, hu ticca rcLirsdicu; lor

rrunv rvntuheft. leuvinc Ih&ia i< ilnvimtmuiri a «ai-

rttw WAlkd CCW aloni? the t'mgeni ThouKuurU ot

\%ltnr» viyiv the fall* rach yrur. N«r by are »>lvnti

ptenk ApOts fl««l liioulwiiw rr*ort bnlfU

rel^, tin whistles, flntl nanrimbas made of

planks, ftniper luhin^, and t|n cans. Onedancer raided out his own an oniptinimenl

with stone* in a shoeblackim* can. A group

of men in .women's clothes chanted aecompani-

meto. rrpH.-eutiott village women..Mine wbrfeets are rri'tuited from Lush vil-

lages and signed to con! nuts ranejn^ from

nine monirw to two ytnn. A beginner's pnyfci three --hillinus 4 about •*] cents) a day. hut

it ^*H?ft rapidFy as he sains skill, flesklen

ihe wa^es, the cxjmriany pruvidrs living quar-

ters, hearty, nutriUouji meals, and free beer

We siw the liiitfe vau of 1»eer from which.

Ihe miners net their daily ration, ami vwtrdthe dormitories where they sleep in bunk*BTouped around a centra] fireplace. "Each Tribal

croup lives by ilself. as I hey sometimes fight,

group a toiins i prowp, and when they do, it is

always li» the death. These fireplaces are

used for cooking as well as heating- since eachman receives three pounds ot untrtoked meala week In addilifUi to his regular meals.

A portion of the miner's money, we learned r

m;n fir withheld .it a ne^t e^s. With tldt tlie

min^r Pin no home as a man of tonMrquinite.

Latter lie mny waio roore money and return h>

the mines for another tonln I lerm If lit*

does, he koepA his old seniority and pay.

Bui often the retired gold miner iws Ids

savins^ to set lumself up ftir life, with land

uihI rattle. He tr.-wtes 1 1 Is ealtle icir a wife or

wive*, and weutes down, in the S^mth African

bncklaiuls the prh e fur n wife is iive cowal

Smoke Tluil Thunder*

Flyiop over Vi?rtimn Falbt* we were bulked

of our first look at the camran by 11k* mists

tluit veil it.

'*Al certain sea*oiw." our pflcil said, "tha^e

mfitjl are like a smoke column. We con spot

it HO mile* away ntttf set our eourse by it.

We didn't ^el a clear view of the "SmokeThat T1uindetsP

*tAs the natives railed the falls

whi'n I ivinsKtnne discovered them in

until we flew over th«n a^ain in a chartered

plane The brisht sunlight pfcrCjfd ihe mist t

and we could see lielow the placid £nml>ezjRiver !ake its dramatic 354-foot dm.

"Mission airomplishwi/' we Hew to South-ern Rhodesia'* Rukiw.iy<». a yimiij? city in thr»

stifl-yoimg count rjr falbered by Cecil Rho*lrs *

Near by, at Ihe crest of the j/ratifte-faccd

Matopo Hills, stands Rhode*'* «ravur

-nr-

rnuuded by massive boulders.

Btl] Klvwles. who dieil nfjy in IQQ2, beloni>>

lo Afrii:a*s present We had a date with the

past, :il the sile of one of the world s great

my*tenea.

• Set -Khadcih. HnbTw and Hopr of Oil Hboitw^In W. Hubert Moore. Natoivu GMmrAPUU Uji.a

Spr^'dJ Wrdu, Drink1 a WuEer ! lolc in

Southern Rliudcnij

With Hi *U*i* LuiLnJ unrfy,

siHtkfcr Jritt, and "-t™»i neck,

iSi- rfirJinV brcn tile I>u11

»>l many a )''••! llHuiurn thf

ti'Jrturies Ramans fculbiwud

a! a eapumtl tflnJk Ui the

d*>JQi JuUuiCacMr. Lotvnzii

rfe' Mfittri r*hifiici-d nm« for

the .uiiusemonl of Flurmliursdaring Ihe RriiaJsaanrc,

Hut the gxnllr kujQVs bl-

*itnc iitpLurnnrff u nnl «rilh-

uut purpose. Lune ires andprritroriic nrclt rnnblc ihr am-nul to rimh | be Uroh» o(

acacia tree*, tram wtdrh it

Ic^i r«- and lender fhvtX •

the mainmay of ju did. 1>y

mciitw «>l ao ntcniibtc tuncucGiraffes a it the lafJot of

rrj.'inimal*. tluUa town u hiirtj

Ab lA'/j tvri from b-uol to

crown, lraitka mcauirtlo Hi Irrl 1 1 is not utruMial

Sur \n clii mak it> weigh lwi>

run* Tli^ liidr ulnru- n<: rptionally muiih and nearly anincli thick, exenriW Inn pouruji

brj»|4tr iU bulk and awk-ward Fook4 the nrfult animalcan eullop an catioutcd ,\$

milr\ dii hnur fur start dis-

til rices. .Vt teuer pact It

ahnu'i prruirr rndurance thanthe lamcsl bonM Sinrr ihruirurfr moves fare and bindleia ttaiLulMiirauily on one side

ul lljc 1Iy> ll tun> U'ilh a

peculiar ttmni motion, UiruKtirled anil rfia neck bob*Wrttf up nnd down,

GuutTn, like their n-Utivct.

thr antcJopo mti| deer, arcpeauuhle erratum But, If

rorncrtif ami attacked, Lbeyrain ilrudty bfo\v> witli ihrir

dm cti IiimiY^ Adult* fcUIVI! hutonr natural rnrmy, the Iicm_

luiaftS it bars tun m thrwor the Ms; ial» to pull down aRiratfc.

OUl buns ultra banJi? for

berd suprunary, They notocd> [n*h flut with nnV-drivrrkkks. bid vftlna their neck*'ik<- 3ui,cLiall UaU in in cflctrt

to knock cadi other off hal-

nnce.

The inraflc cannot drink•Abtn vtanriint up ruth I. Tti

ii>ne neck cnnUiiu no moct (

ttant itrinu than thftl o/ ahi>pr<rxitAjni|[i and cannot Iklo-wprwl vary fat.

fli'ic t«o idrafia bend op•-'i.i. (din! fntvVitt whilr a

child am ii ientlnrf. Ot-uedten pcrrli tin tht mntt[<*r|

bai'kv

195

n U f.««n !Wi«il Unci h|i lii i •!»«

Zimbulmi:'* firtiil I'lllrxic*! Temple U u Mystery from Mru*"« Dark I'™*!

Dm ruinn, fouoil In iHfaH in Stxrtheni UtimMfli, airiit-titoitial* Ttw; uniple 1

* fttUttf well* art W30 (wi ftrminrl um]

>ft Iwi hi*h In plwtt* CninililiiiK inner walU. r*sht. tlivMv (he tcrtflile trim a mine of Hippusitr jji>«ci

Safari Through Changing Africa

HVo« can't mnkc it" ihry tnM us. "Themads- are washed out. There's no through

Irafn, no air SOTvke.rt

Wc manned, LrnMJfi,h- Our pilot back at

Victoria Falls had Jimtily arranged with a col-

league for us to bit? a pluJir, one of those

numerous flying ibjps that arc available- i m 1

o

throughout much of Africa.

Thus ISO miles cast uf Bolawuyo < ftnsishini;

by ear over partially puved rciadi wc came to

Zimbabwe the ruin.* of a dly (mill by An un-

known people at nn unknown lime. Even the

name ii a puzzle, li may comhinr two Bantuwotib meaning "sirmes" and 'houses,

1 *

The massive structures wbich make up the

''Great Zimbabwe'* are built v»{ haud~bewti

stone dutifully Jilted !^rt3iH without mortar.

They were laid om rarefully in ft tfcomeiric

pattern. Ai one end U ft vast and roofless

Elliptical Temple, its thick, inner and outer

wall? etiiln^e platforms and two towers

Who ttved in Zimbabwe?

Near by ore the scanrred stones of a YaJ-ley of Ruin- where people may once have

lived. Beyond rises the Acroj^ilis. a bill

ctuwuerE by obvious fortifications Here the

granite walls were so constructed a* to mergewith and make the greatest defensive use ai

lie ijiunt boulders already on the *imU

Wandering about. I wj* reminded of Maxhuritchu. in Peru, where another vanished race

ha* left .umllar ruins of mortarlejs stone.

Bui Mucbil Pit-rhu is linked with the Inca

and prr-lnt i! pmples. Wmb.dnve Lick> authen-

tic record* or iiticcriplioft* and has Few relict

to hint nt a lonp-lc^t past. \ui even burial

grounds identify its people.

There are clues to what their occupation

Wis; old crucibles (ax melting gold have beenfound in ihe rua>. Medieval Ai.ih.nu! Portu-

guese cxnlorers once ink I ni some such fab-

ulous gold-mining center in the interior.

Archeoluujsts have argued about Zimbabweever since Adam Render*. American hunterand trader, found the ruins in IAM.

Karly inve>ti«atiirs thought the settlenient

bar! been in existence thousands of years.

Some MiKKe>teiJ that ancieut traveler^. perhapsthe Phoenician ur £al«?aii*. had buill the city.

Others theorized that it was in the Itihlical

land ot Ophir. ihat it w.t> the source of gold(or Solomon s Temple and of the j?ift5 broughtby ihe tyieen ot Shelia.

Modern archenlogiAts make ul> such claim*ol 4ntK|uity, but I lie detective work jjries on.

Since we were at Zimbabwe. TJ. S. physicist*h ive examined a piece of wood from one ofthe temple walk Using archeology '$ neweMyarrijliek, the tii^er counter, they liave mea*-ured the Mdiu.icliVRy of the wood ami esti-

mated its age; about 3 ,350 years!

Tin- uold that once helped sup|>ori Zim-babwe is ?llll important in Simlhern Rho-

desia's economy. Last year nearly halt arnOb'on ounce* were taken front log and little

mine> Mattered over the numtry. Many o(

them i% into the same vein* worked by the

early race of unknown miners.

"We know the am irniv worked out mines/

said Mrs. Hill We*l, who with lu-r liushand

ow n« and operates .i pold mine near Zimbabwe.' We've found their crude implement* in the

old mine ?hafr?. One of the theories aboui

the many abandoned diggings found armindherein th.il ihe miners j:.ive up each lime they

struck water. Since they didn't know btnfe

to pump it nut. the} had to move on.1 '

We loo were nmvittfS on. We were sched-

uled fo make another ghcan lie mr boji into the

depth* of Africa, depths until recently pene-

trated only by mt'n puslii^u on lovt throuuli

swamps arid jungles.

From Zimbabwe back tr> Huhmtvo the afr

miles flowed by. We flew on la Salisbury,

Southern Rhodesia s capital, and from There

over the tip of Pnrtueue!*e Mozambique andthe high plateaus and mountains of the Brit-

ish prole< (or:ile> N'yasaland.

We LTosst>c] Like Xya*a and tlie ^ame luiui.*

id ^juihern Tnnffanyika, to slop at trie ImtbnOcean |H*rt r Liar es Sali^am. Its Arabic namemeans Haven of Peace, ' beryhjji u stormytjerman-Ilnlish history

I'iiKilly. 400 mfles farther, we landed ai

inland Nairobi, tlu? lively capital of Britahys

Krnyn I'oJony and S'roiectnrale. European*in Kenya number Judy about ^O.QCX). le** than

one percent of the Negro population. Duringour stay there, however, we coitJi] ,**e lillle

trace of the racial unrest which was to erupt

les* than n ye;tr later into a series of bloody

mu'vu res by the Mau Mau. a CrtminunUi-inspired ur^ain/ainui of Ktkuyu Irihrsnven,

MintH foe Tr:n clcr%

From Kenya we visited I'ganda, lleleum

Congo, Kthiupii!, the Sudan, anr| Kyypt,

We found travel In Africa pleasant amiea-y for the nrn'f iwri. the wenrry (ahiulously

lnMinifid, dtr hoiek iind fimis gi.>f«t its a rute.

Tbc foxid w;i5 uniformly rxcrJIent. Hut For

travelers who exjieil hi follow our route, I

can "tffer thi? advice;

Take clothes for all climates. Even in

equATorta! Africa it's ci»l on the pbteaus.Ci.QOO "r more feet upr and a coat is useful.

At Zanzibar and T>of e> Salaoni. on t.he oilier

hand, the lhmur*t, li^hlr-t Ihinuj- in (Jir ward-robe are thr ltin-.t t-'OtWtl|blr.

Be uirefuf aridnrssfni your mail. When

•Sff Homeland of Ihe \V=»lil (- Inert," lie

Kw lt»i>. \*Tn»'M CiEr^RArme M*oaiint. October,

iwa

mKoncbvcU, Copied From N*riv««' Ctrvulur Hw*. Arc Africn

k

i Own Tourbt Gabfai

Sfniplr tn tlr-ian anil c*miliirl.il>1«i, ll^v il.uU'hfil found Utmv» fit *'ii«ut*M> trilo I In- 1*jkIh4|kThey ate prnUnl to bmtf*J*o in many part* ol AlHia Sunie arv luxuriously lum^hrd. wi'h elwinrlly *tu\

running intrr. Hurc lh« juthor in*pcti» u rt'iutim'l in /ululand"= lilubhiwr flam/ Ita&wvt*.

3*n<ltfi4? letter* home U» ihr t : nirrd Slates.

ilonY, for a city such as Richimitid, put

"V. S, A/' after It, or it will pruMily be

delivered to Richnumd. Natal. In the I 11ton

of South Africa. There arc many towns whose

name* duplicate nuts, and '^SA/'Vlfft! the

initial^ in common use for the Union of riouih

Africa as- well as fr»r the I'nked States oi

America-

Be sure to nntkc Jtoie] reservations in ad-

vance. Until!? am! ions, with few exceptions,

are small and air nhiti lull.

Keep your passport*, visa*, :md medical

recoids with y«m al ,dl timt*. TraveHjg in

much uf Africa, you arc moving only Iruni

one part of the Hritish Commonwealth to

another. Just the sune, you will be asked to

-how your paper* at each airport

This is because each rwklUicat sabdfv^Ott

ItSfl &$ own eiwcrnment: Nigeria k a colony

and pfi ilcctorate; the I'nion of South Afrits

is a duminton consisting of four Provinces:

Northern Rhodesia and Upanda arc protector-

ates, and Southero Rhodesia, a seir^ivrrnirvii

colony; nnfl 50 on. In some cases, of course,

as in the Bdtfutt Congo. Ethiopia, and Keynt.

you are moving under different fia# entirely.

ffiT the same fejiNin, El. i* wise not 10 lake

too much of one kiinl ul mone* with you. a*

iSie money and postage stamps, nf course,

chanue ai eiuh border. M each litne you

cri>ss a frontier von have tn RiVe ancotmi ofthe money in your possession*

Member* of ihe National <icr>t;raphic Sna-rly may be inlet r^ted to know there arc 8,000

fellow members in South Africa alone Theywelcomed ns in every city we visited.

DurefooC Waiters und Jumilc Uruim

Everywhere vre wenl in Africa «c found

ill c stranpe contrasts and contradictions of a

continent in transition. Here a ii -conditioned

hotels, uh'del farms, and dial telephunes c*i*t

side by .side with jungle drum*, 1 VjVlunt-

and mischh'Vfhu* hahnctm^ tn excellent newhotel restaurants you ore startler! to find yourmeats served by n hatefonl. white-robedwitilct weaimi! h cummerbund anwnd h£<

wuist Bod a fe^ on his head—the pre -ai/Iri^

wniier K«rb from f ;i[K' Town to Cairo.

Invariably we were ftnpfe<5ed by the workEr[|{*h colcinfal j^uvrtiuiients ar^ dofnu in Ihr

\ i t sections of \frira which lie utnlcr the

Brttf<;h flaR, M«J of Ihw wiirfc in modernlime* Is devoted to improving the statu*, notof the English *rlrlers hut of the Africans;la eradicating disease, improving asrrTcufrure,

and intmducing new iufltE^tries.

Schools, aniveriities. ant I h^piiaUhnve hernbuilt: more are iininj» up. And there is tfrral

conacimitne.^i That the Irtiig-range objecth* is

to teach Africans lo Kovem themselvr*.

Bclteville Brings Science to the Farm mliv Samvij. \V. M vinil us

/~pWLLVf\ miN* from downtpwn WmI ingtnn, li. c '.. b .» bum thai Ju-L alT I hi* rules. Caws Like heat batfa

W'rrrb are planted in greenhflu:***. Fruit tree*

ire sprayed with unium! idns* and ilifWiW

cerm*. and i «h Urjache* arc raided in imni|>ercil

The farm employs 2,000 hired hands

—

hundreds with scientific drtrrces—yet prowsm <l hinj? fur market. But from «o] day4>y-day actrvitie* the American taxpayer rea|tf

bounteous renirus. The harvest nf the t'nfted

States Agricultural Research Center ai ISelis-

villc, Maryland, tjf knowledge.

Farm Muiik- in rliv Multm£

Crossbred cows swelter in artificial tropics

so that a few year* hence dairy herd* in hot

southern States will grve mure rta Llk. Fromarectdwux- wwi beds tome better chemical

weed killm for farm? and lawns of tomorrow.

Orchard* wflN l«r more reatstant to Iritghts

because Dvlthvillr infects trees with disease

through tiny Rushes vul h> flying glass. \\ i\h

fupercockroaches, immune lo present poisons*

scientists test new chemical killers,

UeraiiNe of Iteltwille and eA|*eJ"imenl sta-

tions like it hi nil 4$ .Slates, n revolution is

lakinK place on The American land, Thefarmer wvirld has changed morr in a single

lifetime than in nil the previous centuries manhas cultivated the earth.

T«*day'> farmer ufwrates machines, unknowntu his grandfal her. thai till his fields, fill Ins

silos mend his fences, and milk his cows, Heplant.* serrfs from which grow foods and fibers

unheard of in this country a few decades aeo

He mhte^ *irramlinetl pigs that arrive In larger

litters, and tfvit mure ham anil Irnonn, amisheep with lonctT, finer wool.

Spra> Bnrivh* .tnd \1idfltl Turk*.-)'*

Agricultural science affect* the doily life of

us all. What we ent taste* I letter, b mareplentiful ami more nutritious. Much of whalwe vve.it la-it* longer and cost* less. Life is

healthier and safer. I.o -k at a few examples:The first te*U of 1M)T in this country were

made at BeltsvihV following its dbenvery in

-Switzerland. The aerosol spray homh, crnj-

itrd with saving thousands of lives in WorldWar Tl by preventing insect -iHvrnr di,M'a-*\s.

sprang from the ingenuity of two Hrltwdle

scientists (page JJS). The spectacular werd-killing ptmtx of a chemical ttitmetl 2.-M* werediscovered mi a. djuulellon-cb'Aod Inwu at theResearch Center

Few nd) arhwrvemcnts bear Bcltsvilles

name, t'titil ' Hellsville turkey*," plump withwhile meal, hrttfn ap|iearinK in stores a fewyears arci, must city housewives had never

heard of the placeHut thruiiirh the paues ol scientific joirrrals,

wherever men are seeking new horizons in

farming, the sprawling rxprrimrnt Malum onthe outskirts of the Nat ton's Capital k fast

beenminit world-famous.

"Many farmers in my country can tell youwhere Uelt<vilte ov' a foreijni visitor told meone day. "The name is u? well known to themus any town in the United States."

This was a man who had traveled &.000miles to see the Re-search Center. An official

ol die Turkish Ministry of Agriculture, hehad come for a six-months nationwide train-

ing course tinder the hnnt 4 technical avsi•lam v program.

f.)n tours arrariped by ihe Departments of

State and Agriculture nearly I0.OOD visitors

went to BcJtsvillc in 1952. Farmers arrivi-'l

from Uenir»ark'> crern fJnirylnnd and fn>m the

Golden wheat country of the Dakota*. Aeri-

cultuittl students .-l^nr*l ir imm univTrsities in

Greece and hind -iiratil colleizes of the Ureal

PJaiit-, Coutiry ai^ r r- i.umc from rural uEYlcc-

in India and Indiana.

C/tLci Cm>\\+ "The- f^mhiiiatiiin"

Thj.itfe who cannot c;o to Beltsvillr telephoneor write. In one office 1 noticed a cardtmanicartin piled hieh with papers and pushedunder a table

• Our filing space gave out/' a ^cienibt said.

There are 10.000 letter* in that box. all

received in the |ml thret? months :iud all

requeslinp advice about tawn yr.iv"

This sanie man walked me across a springy

carpet rrf fanta^tte new turf developed at

lielUville, Htw Combination.'' he called it

"This jhra&* won't low color in rnklMim^mer hra!/' he said. "It thrives in pxxir soil

without watering, crowds out weeds and crab

icrcus. and fpsiats di-ea.^e> and insects. It 5 sotough that on a £i»if course- It fc* virtually 'Lv<»t-

proof."

Secrrt nf The Combination la ;t remarkablrstrain <if grass lhat came ori^iually friinj

K'irea. Its name, Meyer zoysia, lornmem -

rates n Department of Agriculture plant ex-plorer. Frank N. Mcvrr. who died mystrrious-ty in China after «endmj* home many strains

nf the jMiysia famfly.*

Su< ~A Hunuf hi I'luniv' fry l>jvifj FairrJiilil,

Nahonal QttKWAruic Magaeim,' Juty, 1919.

200 The National Geographic Magazine

Planted with a new TsIuegroH? discovered

irrowErrg nil the Merioit (roll i'\t\h course nrar

Ardmotc, Pntn^vlv.iufa, a few years apoT

Meyer 'XoysiA fo.uos «a almost period iwf bythe ritfomus standards, of Ihe United Stales

Golf Association (page 210).

Meyer zoysui 15 nor yet available in seed

form, bui a few enterprLsinfi nurserymen sell

plugs am} Mock* of Meyer sod, which maybe set into an existing lawn. Lender eood

conditions ihny spread and join In Iwo sum-mers. The new tfrass Tww been planted thus

in thr Inwri of the Whirr House.Tprdd J 5 for a square foot of Meyer eod frnrn

a near-by nursery und sawed the preen-haired

cake inli 1 4S small block-- with a bread knife,

Following directions, 1 spaced the blocks afool apqrR in a mines nf my yard, Occa-tfrinalb I walrfcd and feffitixed them-

By Ijibor Day lu=h trn?en tufts marched:iVme the fence in geometric procession. Fromeach ntfi new runners spread Hfce spokes.When my xaysin is re-plu^ed into the rest

of the lawn. Merlon hluegras* must I*- reeled

abn. Merino grows btsj In Ihe eool monthsof -priiift and fall. whereas the Meyer thrives

in summer's hottest weather, Toother theyprovide jjrrra. cover almost all year*

I iae!c Sam—FarmerKeltsvJHe is the Nation > largest agricultural

experiment renter.

Us fields and forest*., barnyards and Ld>ora-

turie£ stretch acrn&g 1 1 ,000 acres of mlliny

Maryland countryside,

U iihin the station, nine mfle>fnim one endin the olhrr. ari? 050 bufMinjss. In' following

ihe Center's 53 miles of ronds 1 found xn air-

jMirt. a granary, a iu.ily.ird, and gleaming

acres of pm;nhousc«-At the Plant Industry Station, on If, S.

Route 1, I talked with a botanist about the

miracle^ being achiever] there in the breeding

of new hybrid crop* (pane 202).

"In any research/' he -oh), 'a scientist

must ask I lure question*: How ran it bemade brtirr- How can it be made cheaper?Can something new be made? 1 '

Today .American farmers crow an additional

three-quarters nf a billion bushels of corn each

year by planting hybrid *eed. They rai«golden tobacco far jwtetrr. milder, and lower

hi nicotine content than the. leaf of Sir WalterRalegh's day. Sclcntfsts at Bcltsville arenow producing Raster lilies as hii* as the bell

of a tmnilionc- and srtupdra^ons and carna-tions half again as large ns the usual variety.

There nre- potatoes selected especially fur

potato chips.

ttainp well-known laws of genetics; plantbreeders now transfer Mir.ierinr trait* from oneplant tD another much as farmers produce

n mule by breeding Jackass und mare. Theresult is increased vigor, jjrniter yield, andhealthier, better adapted crops.

Hybriil corn has many things in commonwilJt the mule. The offspring of two different

strains outproduces either parent. Yield-,

jump spectacularly, just as a tiiuKV wtirl

capacity is greater than that nf either parent-

Four UushcU nt Corn Replace Three

Tin: first 10 bushels of Irybrld seed cornwere put on the market tn 1922, and 11 sparkwas slrucfc in ihe Corn Belt, By 1043 tnnre

than half of all lT . S corn «rew from hybridSeed. Today Ihe figure ts above 80 percent

for the Nation and virtually 100 percent in

Ihe Corn BelL

As !>r. Albert H. MoscnuiO. chief of thePlant Industry Bureau, put it: "The extra

hu-hel in even.' four which hybrid corn j^ave

115 is worth enough each year tn pay for all

tin re^urrh «\ti done by Ine l^ej-artmeriT of

To learn how chwly acrinilluraj rwenrchnffecu the average AnH-rfc^n, 1 m out to seehow Beltsvilte ts hnprnvintr the Great j\meri-

MeaJ—?te.ib and potatoes, tomatoes, applepie and rhecsc.

In ;i puddoi k at the animal liusbundry bnm*t found cittle that had never e^ten green prnw,nor !iad I heir forebear? for f\vtr Retierallons.

Kept on concrete and bans earth, they live

on preefce test raliou^, Ij^w-qiialicy hay, pltnirraJn and cottonseed. lEtiseryJ, itt ikiybean irti*al

r

1 ontml their vitamin A and protein inrjike.' The Idea.'* 1 wo? lold, to ftnd out

uhetlit'r prevaihoK notions of raising andfeeding ranue cattle are valid. We have foundsewnl nirw ways to improve their nutrition.''

Thus Beltsvllte helps ensure the quality

and availability nf tomorrow.*$ beefsteak,*

ScicncL1 rr.in^h>rtn« the SptiJ

A potato specialist showed me how gtfenceworks ;il Belwville to kivc the common $f>tn\

primely qualities In a single year 50,000hybrid potato. seedUiigs may lie yrrowrt in

irreenhouses- From the«erbreeilrrs may u.ei

one new potato variety promising enough $0

christen with a name and relpase to Gridstations fnr further tests.

To breed a disease-resistant pouito, scien-

tist-. i|*> not beetn by planting fct ttoiis or wholeseed potatoes as do farmers. Tliey work fromthe "fruit" of a potato plant, which manyfarmer*, particularly where growing days arenormally hot, never sec

Neither, 1 learned, had one rod-faced radio

commentator. One day at bre.ikfast time he

•Sec 1'America's 4Mtai on the Hoof.- * tip William

aw. 1*51.

^Aumy-ijii; f" Prc-rkicnl Fivunlicmer Nfnrvcls ut Beluviltc'H EfU Sonerr

The PrimirlcBl. In-pccling tlir Rcurattli C«nrrr, win fnxiruir^ri by (he rlrtironic machine iviutJr scjm-

rvtni esc* b> *3h"U tutor (puce .'15'. A minimc Jarm btfjr, lie showed iccJi intorsl in iJjc Center i project*.

M tu? rtiihr »ta*nh S«ttiin «f \jmruliurf Enj Tift Hnum» Tb* h**l*5> -ii BelNviWf Small Whhn Itirkoy

devoted much of his program hi destrUi&tttk in

yre.it exilement, the wonderful plant Mm

l

t»rew in his garden near W.ish i ti|t tort.

"It hag potatoes on one end and tomMnesBli I he oilier/' he announced.

Almost before ihe broadcast ended, the

studio telephone tegan In ring. Soon the

commentator called rWll^vrilc

He learned to his embarrnssmrnt thai what

he iurl seen ^ras nut .1 two-cn>p miracle, hut

a ftfiUti) plant forming green wed ball?, like

n 1 1 n 1 11 ( 1 1 -t e unripe tomatoes (page 204).

By giving putatu |ilani> lung, tool daysunder jrtjfickd conditions, BeUsvitle'* breed-

ers force thfc*e seed halls to (arm. Lacb con-

tain* irp to 200 smb. which carry the trait*

of both parent potato plant?, used in the eross-

pollination.

Xew |M>tato varieties keep far better lhan

ativ ever did l>cfnrc. At Bdtsville I saw them

bring boileil, ma>herf, baked, and French' fried

alter Storage at various temperatures for 1 liffer-

en! lengths of tithe.

Try this batch." said a scientist in a

kitchen devoted stileEy In fHiiatis chip*.

"Each new variety of potato Is tested for

chipping quality by matching the color andiiMvkaLulin oj its chips ajjaiti.'t ,1 Mandatdscute. These chips are alrjii 1st perfect.

51

Hut and crisp, they were.

Tomatoes Win Altai nsl Will

Belleville'.* unending tatttle ayaioM plant

1 1

1

mm nr-; ha> lnoUpH to the itnerican lable

tomatoes larger and less expensive, redder andjuicier,

A disease named iu*arium wilt caused in-

1 nlcohible loss in tomato ({rowers before WorldWar II, despite I he vim? of semiresislanl

plants. Scientists had tong searched the world

Sunlight »rd Science Make lite J'lnnl Industry Suiioo I "neJe Satn'ii "Green Thumb**

Ri'in». In blKirjfnrie^. ffivrnhmuei, nit JWirvlanil fields, wricrrii*u tvork rhr ypnr munH with virtually

evrryihinj; thai giow* Th$j tart miti. fcrtifcttnt. *ect1 kQIrn. and hybrid plants. Thw •liuiim tar: <.f the:

II Iin.i.jcY* AerUuJlufal R«#»tdi Cvntrt. trhlch sfrrtuha »*vm mM lw>ufi«i V. S, Ruulo I (top tivMj.

for a tomato that wnutr] grow unharmed in

soil Wcstnl with fiiMtiiiin fungi.

Finally, a wild relative of the lumnto wasriiscovered growing rear Trujlllo, Peru, lis

fruit fjnew only a quarter of an huh in diame-

ter, but in soil arti&cialk iriVcied wiih wilt

ilb fnlUKc "stond mil like w emerald" arming

hrt.wn and withered ilomestk strains.

A breeding program he^ui w l°*0 which

ran through hundred* of sclrttioriA and tens

of thousand? of plants. In 1940 a new to-

mato family, large in fruit and highly nf^i st-

unt In fusuriujn wih. wus reined Imm Belts-

vflte, I ts name, now famous wherever loma-

lots an? k'f-wn, i* the Pan America.

Even healthier tomato (slants, resistant to

tmrte than <mr rlUeatt, are now hetmr bred at

Kelrj-ville. Others, touched by strange newgrowth regulators, produce huge fruiu, some

with no seeds \ page HI ).

Gmwth chemicals contribute to the apple

pic as well as to the salad. Spates containing,

a 5ing:fe teaspuonful in 100 gallon* of water

hold ripiriefl applet on the tree until they are

ready for picking. Orchards lose less fruit

to bruisinc fall*.

In ciilri**tHr;U!e chambers and m« *dcl kitchens'

Hellsville foHWs the apple from tree to pic

A tempting amma of rwkmi; pastry led meto u lalwralury of the Bureau of Human

Nutrition and Home Ktunutuk.*, where racks

of gofden-hrnwn pies were just coming fnim

a jdeaming electric oven,

Scientific luster.- wrtr sampling the- pie*

for appetite appeal Hie reV.ipe. if approved,

would be offered to thousands of hospital*,

n^taurunis. and factory cafeteria*.

Most American-made Cheddar cheese that

tops <»ff »»or pie is made from ]Wtcurixe*l

rather titan raw milk by n process workedipijl by Uep.LMoii'nt Agriculhirr dairy .scien-

tist*. IVifieuri/atlnri improve* the average

(trade of cheese and makes it more uniform In

quality, in addition i-> killing harmful bacteria.

H-irvttonc* Spied r*rnMrh or Slow fi

Each impnrvement in the things we eat

results fiorn long year* of basic research into

imMene.- oi .soil and sun and trxuwittjt plants,

for all life de|3ends finally upon that whichsprings from the earth.

Among the mast startling of Relist illr v

pbuil experinieniA are ih<>se wkh th* socidled

"plant hormones," the growth regulators.

Quantities that can he held on the point

of a Umlhpkk may be cansiderecl heavy

duses. Plant hornnme men work with mil*

lionth.* even biliionfli-i, of a pram of these

organic th«mkal> wilh luiiiiue-twistini* name*.

Made radioaclivt. they can be fallowed

TMr*vrllc% Prize [lull* Wulk Mile* fur Hvcrcise Without Leaving the Barnyard

A ^rAOo-ntiuml Hokinn ftanhfiM from camera) b jwfcfd Cu puti th* mfrr>-gf»-rnurni r^ereher (Him1

I'LiIk Mow trliira un iiwfcei. Hitmpci! ftrd Sindhfe (fofntrotuirt) irufls iftdln ctoh liii*»fltifts with Hofcrcinf

an(J Jcrwy* for hybrid •Lau? latllc uilh hipii licul rrals.la.m:*' *t;i. .imJ Jl'li

through a plant with (Jeigtr counters. Tooth-pick doses are sometimes so powerful ihcif

effects can be traced to the second or even the

thirrl generation.

Jii bv|l*vilir'« hormone spwnhousts I saw

beanstalks 'with *win> ihai dunned in Rirange

twists anrl turns. Other plants £r*w from

« It mlile and triple root

Some growth regulators cause fruit to ri|>cn

early. In spring they tun make blossom*

"stick" lunger Ofl the tret-, ac with the Jap-

anew flowering cherry lrrr* Eh \Va.Uuu^C<m.

l>. C, Other spray? reverse the process, ihin-

j ij t=4» blossoms in orchards to prevent trees

ln>m developing mure fruit than citn he nour-

ished to gimtl size.

Maiii-growih scientists work- as well with

the winder rfnigu of modmi ow-dicine, the

antibiotic*. They find that these organic

compounds, which inhibit ar destroy disease-

producing bacteria, viruses, or fungi, will

move through a phutl somewhat as ihrovmh

the human body.

New antihlotics have been discovered in

many plants, Bettsville chemists have Isolated

a crystalline substance frum the tomato plant

that 5tup4 the growth Of certain harjrdul

to plants and animal*. They have found ac-

tive antibiotic uuents in the sweet potato amithe banana, cabbage and cactus* cucumber

and celery, broccoli, lettuce, and rnu^kmclon-

From lontatldme. a chemical made from

tomato leaves and mote, merited researchers

have produced the Sex hormones urogestrmneand testosterone. Even the complex hormonedrug cortisone may someday be made from

the tomato, *hurmrfl as [wdwniotis little morethan a century ago.

Scientist Takirs. PilU ..f 2,4-1)

The potent weed poison 2.4-D, which snuffs

tmt the life of broad -leaved weed* withoutharming urass, was discovered first a* ft

growth regulator.

Somehow t-hr chemical stimulates plant

growth when applied in ink roM'opie amountsHut larger doses so oversiimuktte mostbroad-leaved plants thai they tiurn up their

food reserve in leaves, stems, and roots andliterally Starve to death.

When <* iejitihl*. al hrllsville nr-t de.-i overerl

2,4-1 1\ wml-UHim: powers, they levied it

Ehtiroujihly on near-by coif course* /ind evpenmen tal plot.*. They were >lil| not sure,

however, whether it could be used safrlv

around farm animals nr moo.For 106 days a cow was Ted grain with

enough of the plant poison in it to kill a tree.

Iflond samples ivere taken and applied to

seeril truss. The plant< Showed there was

ZQ4 The National Geographic Magazine

2.1 -D in the blood, but the cow was unharmedand the chemical did un\ appear in her milk,.

Then Dr. K/ni J. Ktuiis, .1 Dcriartmrnl of

Agriculture scientist, since retiral. took cap-

sillcs of pure 2.4-11 everv rlav for three weeks.

He suffered in 1 til rife: is proving thai the

new miracle spray could be used safely. In

1-945 it was released In the public, -Some

30,000,000 pounds a year are sold.

Kvtn newer weed killers, are now being

tested. I siw M-K'triivu plant itobun* applied

to suil Froro which com. wheat, and soybeanwedlihgs would grow unharmed, but never a

weed, Using such ' pre-emcrgence'' toil treat-

ments, farmers may one day mix wwl killers

with fertilizer and watch mips grow in weed-

lea fields.

Mystery of ihc Viewers

For 33 years scientist* have known that ihe

cban^iim lencth of day ujj J ni^ht is a baskregulator of plant life. The phenomenon is

called phatoperiodisni. But haw it woifcs is

still a myrtery.

Some plant?- blossom only In the lengthen-

ing days of spring. Others require more dark-

new than diiyliuh! and bloom in the fall whenthe nigh* - are liw online longer,

BeltsviUe discovered that darkness, not

light, time* the miracle -if rl'*>weriiia. Whenthe night shortens or lengthens to a certain

spun, an unknown mem mtthantsm tells

plants thai it is Ihe season to blossom.

Sometime* if a plan I f normal night is

broken by esvn a short rtssh of light, it can

be fooled into reactine as if there hart Iwen

two short Eights rather lhan one long oneGreenhouse operator* already use this prin-

ciple to withhold the blossoming of chrysan-

themums anil pniuseltin until late ia the fall,

producing flower- timed to football crowds or

ihe t'bristnvi* holidays

Tn u dark basement laboratory T watchedplani physiologists study photoperiodism A1

ihe end of a Jong narrow mom a rainbowsuddenly appeared. Id a swath of multicolored

licht stood a line of potted plants. A scientist

hi shirt sleeves moved into the lurht, shifting

plants across the beam (page Z12).

"Different wave torglhs of Ifcht tause plants

to behave in different way*,*' the expert

mrnter said. "A few minutes under a certain

litfhl hand sometimes can atari a plant's blos-

soming process. Given another type of liiiht,

the same plant will not bloom at alL

"There seems In be a pigment, or set of pig-

ments, in plants which reacts only to a par-

ticular wave length But how this trigger

mechanism induce* llovverirg, we don't know:"Evidence has hem found that a phnioperiod

mechanism atai operate* hi animals and birds.

It tells them when to change the color of fur

or fmthers. and when the mating season

nrrfvfs, A difference of only 20 minutes in

audit length has induced mails in a liell>villc

laboratory to begin laying eegs.

Crop Spccdnip Fiflhr* |5»B Ru*r

Belts villi- plant breeders vary light amidarkness In four grain plants and vege-

table- into iluwerln^ in lb* middle, of winter,

producing in extra crop each year.

The time thus saved. I,\ lele^ophig a cou-

pic of growing seasons into one and na«.*re

ipuckly tinebng a resistant witty, <nutd meanUir dtfferercr Ix'tween winning or lusing arace against a plant disease.

Kiird-fircssed irrain breeders at Beliifvfllp

nnd at cuopieratiri^ State exfwrimerit (tfwOKIare now rncin? one of the most dnngcroui new^trains of an old disease ever to attack the

uhi*atlant|s of North Aai?rh~a, In l*J50 a newstem ritslt Race f.5-B. suddenly became agrave menace.

Belisvillr lias 1.? 000 different wheal Vari-

eties, gathered from all parte of the world.

By the end of I$52 every one had rteen

screened for uerrn pla>m resistant to the

scourge. The tests include sending new strain*

of wheat to Smith America, where even moreviruh-nl rusts sue racing.

Pbnl dtH-ase* may be mused hy limgl

virus infections, barler'tn. «t nmutrides.

Kemalodes that prey on fdants ocist In the

soil as micmscvpic wrarrnHfee organisms. Sprue

t}-pes are beneficial to m^n. such as ihowifaat attack insect nests and others thai helpbreak down animal and vrjretnhle matter Fn

the earth. But others are hiuhly destructive

—for example, the golden nematode, dreadeil

by potato growers.

InfeMlrin ik'lds, baurmful varieties attach

plant roots, sap itielr strength and vitality,

and leave cmp* strirkrn (page 217 UNemaMtftfl are anionu the ]»aidie>t and

most rumerous IHing things in the world In

laboratory lests some cstt survive tem|*rrattires

uppniaching absolute wro, '4$fk6** di^crres tie-

low normal zero rm the Fahrenheit scale.

Tbey have tieeu found tn .'\marctk moss.

Qtbrrs have been lndd Airmant up to 39

yr.m, then heated almost to the boiling point.

Still thev survived.

Nmw Crops from t\io Wild

Yet in recent years basic research at Belts-

ville and other U. S. nemaiiKlc laboratohrs

liii^ resulted in commercial development of

new mil chemicals able to control these minute

enemies of the farmer.

plirtt dL*eiises cornetimes bring an entirely

new farm crop into brim- 1 'hestnut trees of

Ihe United Stales once provided the leather

{Text cmfinurd on page 2tJ)

Boston Likes Rruwti Ej«*fNew York Prefers While; n Hclinville Gud&vi SorLs TUl-iti

SdcncL- *i>rL« for belt» Hvliis? on lh< Ltepartnuait nf Aftt-Jmlturrs MAOO-acrc csju-rfinwiml furm in MaryUm!. Thism.irhinc dTujiln'ri (be jKolikm ni uuhnrm psckasmp: Its photneboctrk crSfe wta turart&ig to color.

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Atomir ny-prudtiotB Fin J PimciMimeL ws in Aifn'culruritl Research

I hi? iintlrTKruiirHl irmw-fh rhambrr riupHrniM sun-HRh1 irliGi Ully flv frillcru-luft fhr mwmvnt (if "hoi"Itnvm—ratUuuctiv'r Uotupr*—ah*ujrliril with trrtfiurrv

km cAii mulw flu* fcrilltiSE and urnwth piocci«aof plantv

i LinSii, Visible unJ Invisible. <LmernUfive Life Cycle nf Plmift

PrllM'fllc 3rantr*J that ttH: varying riurMlori ol dark-no** acid the cnfnr nf Uaht cnnE.ro] phut! U-havtnr.t.'slruE n ciam spectrum. H. A- Burihwlrk llcill «n<]S, B. Hcnilrnkt iKxtwrrccI thai nil ligtil rrtard* !fac

fluwvrinc ol »ontr ptant*: in!ram! prumulo ii.

Bclihvillc Brings Science CO the Farm

industry with ample tannin, ihe basic chem-

ical Uhffd ifl curing animal hides. Bui the

native chestnuts are Rone, wi|n-d niit hy a

nationwidr MLda liven dead thermit trees

.irp disappearing fatt© the tanner's vat.

A wild desert plant ratal canaujre. which

grows across dry wastelands of the Southwest,

may take the chestnuts place, scientists told

me. In ranaifcre's thick knobby roots, which

look like gnarled sweet |mUtnes, a rich source

of tannin has been found.

To enable farmer* in dry regions tn RrowtanaiRtr, hi«h-yielrjiruj plant* arc betas; se-

lected from the wild and domesticated In

effett, I'nrle Sam's plant breeder^ an* iloiiui

what ihr first farmers siurted with trorn andwheat perhaps 3,0Ctf years agtK—devel»ipmE a

new cultivated i ta\y—-hut m a few years tn-

<leiid of thousands.

A wild relative of cotton found in the

mountains of Arizona has opened the wayfor niittHi breeders In develop a new three*

way hybrid with fibers unlike any other cotton

mite *»mwn in this cuunlrv, I iaw thi!*e (\\n*tn

at Beluville; ihey are 50 to 7 S percent

stronger than stiirulard upland varieties nf The

Cotton Bell, ami 20 percent stronger thin

Egyptian long-staple cotton.

Plants Trawl the World

Today there are few domesticated plants

anywhere in the world that liave not been

letted in this country for their agricultural

possibilities, a Bcltsvifle official I odd me. tlx-

plorers still search ihc globe 1or wild strains

whose eerm plasm miithl improve i mps here

at home. But most traffic, is the other way."Nowadays/' the scientist sairi\

* L

t"in;te Samfends 10 plants abroad, to be planted byfarmers in other countries, for even' one wefind oversea and bring home.'*

The amazing power of the drug cortisone

final nsl rheumatoid arthritis ha* sparked a

world-wide search far a plant from which the

medicine miftht lie nude. So far, cortisone

has been made for Commer* lal ux- from an,n ill foond in lh<- bBfl Of j.iIiIi- .i -huh.- ffltf

too limited for the demand. But plant mate-rial may soon l»r used-

At the Glenn Dale, Maryland, CS. Plant

Jntrndurtion Garden near Bellsvillr, exotic

vtnrs ami "ihrr teafy iaunigrams from Africa.

Mexico, and South America crow in long

Krcenhouses painted white la shield plants

from the full summer sim-

''t'hemists now eet cortisone from materials

found in many plants/' my guide explained.* JOor problem k In find one economically

profitable for farmers to wr-ow."

Niviieji^ wrrr virittttilj unknown fn thi*

country' until pl.nd explorers brouirht newstrains from the Orient. Now grown on

IS million acres in the United States, they

yield vegetable and industrial oils, animalfeeds, flour, plastics, and even the foam used

in fighting themtaii Srcs.

Korean lespedeju. introduced In 1919, ranks

03 a multimillion-dollar forage crop across

the siiuth-tt'iilral /ami region of the Nation.

Ladino clover from Italy, rre*ted wheat crass

from Sil»eria. durum wheat? from southern

Ru^ia limfw»ned years a«o before the Iron

Curtain shut off exchance of plants with Soviet

lundsi, titng nuts, axticados the list <>f valu-

able Etfi5 whidi far-traveliug American plant

explorers tuive brought to this country is

almost endless.*

Agriculture is built on ifrass; The irreat

fund t'h>[>> (»! ihr world are grass—corn, wheat,

rice, millet, barley, oat*r sugar cone. Grossmeans also the vast variety of meaduw and

pasture crops which sustain graaang animab.

Dflir) Re^nrtli Pn» Mi^iiKod*

Tn a scrubried, cleun-smellint; calf burn 1

was inftiatpd into Heltsv die's dairv* research.

"Our n^ost valuable possession is not whatwc put down in scientific reports." a rattlp

breeder told me. "but what we have ui our

barns/*

For 33 years a prur herd of Molstcins andJerseys has been built, usinji seven generations

of bulls with proved ability to transmit high-

milking potential. Fmm tht- e%ptfriment hawtonw new *taTidards for choosing dairy sire*.

Today s nationwide artificial bleeding pro-

grams ate based largely ufM>n ihr prnwd-sireprinciple.

i "T-^rhrnviing «-i Hairy CAttfa 'n- ai B4Atp

ville in 1°39. in the wake of tlie spectacubir

success stories ol hybrid cornrswine, and

poultrj'- To many dairy farmers, proud of

their pedigreed herds, crossbreeding a cowstill seems 10ic rank hereby. But BeltevUk's

crosisljTeeduu; ha> pro-hurrl ama/iiiH rrsallv

measured in higher milk yields and hybrid

vigor.

Hum[t--dimiJdrred cnitle are common on die

ratine, but not in U. 5. dairy barns. At Belt>-

ville. however, I found a bull of a foreign

milking breed tlaal may well revoltnfoniKe

southern dair>-ini;. Housnl rear j hujae Hobstein, he seemed almost n mvlfcri. But his

burnished rcrJ-hlack coat and hkh. >kin-foIdeil

hump marked him as a tnre aristocrat far

from home—a zebu hull* prince of the sarred

cattle of India.f

• S«. in tht N.HH1N41 (ir.H.n.irinr At a* mini"How Ftuit Curmr l» Amrriui." by J. R. Marn^n,Stoptembfs, !«#!.; jiai! 't hir V wtuhrr Trffveli-n," \r,

Victor \L BomB, August, }949Sfl' ' Thi' Tftaifte W«rid: CaltJr mil Thoir Place

la th? Hunuu Schifiif—Wllil T\|h*» and MtidrrnHnt'if* in M.inv I-inds." )jv AI 1-"' l-Smv.iil >-im Ut* .

\*rpjKM Ott-irai^prrp- M«-*iprr ( December. IW*.

2H The National (jtogruphic Muga/ine

Scientists Ivilfow tla\\ I orrun drupes from Vjnu to Market

TraibportatKin experts from fc'HsvtTk, tMIim prnducr uiins rout to toast,

krr)i tnniiiiii.il rhrdt *m trmpenlurM »lnrini? sliLpmenl. TherinocMUpiw transmitinmllnr* In data nlu«Eci| In on the roof* of rri iterator «M

^The dairy cow has

been duhbed the foster

mother til the humanrace/

1

a scientist told

roe. "But a famous

Wisconsin editor once

said that the darkest

place tm earth U the

inside uf a cow.'

What the editor

meant, of cuune, was-

thai science still know*little about the Hie

processes that takeplace insi-He farm ani-

mals. At the RrwirchCenter physiologists,

bacteriologists, and

chemists constantlyseek new way* tn thmwlight into Litis darkness.

They study Iwinereproduction— whut

causes sterility in cows,

whai effect hormones

have in caMng and

milk production.

Twin tlulve* Euuiil

t> Herd

One heifer calf in

every three thnl farm-

er* ifed to adulthood

falls to pay her keep.

N ever producingeiuntzh milk, she mi'shl

better have been turned

into veal. BcltsviJlc sci-

entists hope to find a

way u f forewllinir heif-

ers" fortunes by meas-

uring the Immaturemammary glands i»f

calves even as young

as four nvnrtths*

"This-b a purebred Red Sindhi/" I was told.

"Because summer beat holds down productionof milk herds in the South, wc brought in

four beat-resistant Simlhi- Ity crossbreeding

we're trying LQ «ct a strain »( rimy cattle that

ran stand the swclterinft surmncrs of the GulfStales."

A special heat chamber tests Red Sinrlhi-

Jersey and Red Siirdhi-Hulstein offsprmp for

resistance 1*» scurcmng weather SL\ hoursat u lime, at 105 ' F. and In bO-percent humid-£ty, their reactions arc measu red. Amoiut othernecessities the tws wear respirators like jjh$

masta and landed wfrffig leading 10 automatictemperature recorders (pages JW, 206).

Beltsvillc's herdsmen

often " *ee doufde"—anil it's no illusion. Since

1950 farmers have been asked tn sell l! ntlc

Sam identic*] twin calves to serve in feeding

and nutrition experiment?-

Such experiments Iuivp a practical use. Whenwestern names are deep under wirier snows,

stranded cattle find little ^rass for week? or

even munths. Far behind normal prowtli

when spring come?. how shnuhl they be fed

to put meat on their ribs quickly?

Geneticists say that one pair uf identical

twin*, whose birth may occur only once in

one t" Iwo thousand divings, fa as useful ex-

perimentally ns 25 less closely related calves.

W it Ji identical twins all inherited character-

Bcltsvillc Bring* Science ro the Farm 215

Ulfcs ate the route: any differences in growth

must lie4 til i* to environment or feeding.

I saw rmc iwin rhnt wan l>ig ami hntwlsome,

while his brother vga a scrawny nurt. Thefirst had been fed a full ration, while Ihe ucher

received only enough to stay alive.

Afler mk months the worn! calf h full-frcL

Scientists then measure how much time andfeed n tukes to bring ihe aninuil up m weight.

Streamlined plgA jjrow in lieJi.wilic swineturns. Seven new strains have been developed

Ihrrr by ^elective hnrcditifr thrnuuh the- pa*t

IS yrars,

Six nf ihe new strains are based uponcT'f55r--» with rhr Danish luindrare breed. tiach

is hmurr, leaner, and mure meaty than ihe

American hog of old. yielding le*,* unwantedbrd ami more p*»rk. ham. and baron.

Hreedent have even produced dark-skinned

Wws chni won't sunburn. Their appetites

slay keun and their weight up, even In the

hottest summer sniri.

In line barn hugs may eat as much as they

want. 2-1 hour* a day. Contrary to the cliche

thai condemns "eating like a pte. " scientists

lind that Ihe hog never overeat*.

Turlnr-oiiskin^ IIl-Iih illo'« Turkey

Heltsville is perhaps lx>t known fm its

iiniiersutrd lurkry hen I 10 answer housewives*

demands fnr a hini that would fit today's

apartment-M/e refrigerators, small oven*, andsmall famiNe? (page

The compactness of the Retaville Small

White turkey b Ihe secret of Its soccerAlthough it crows to little more lh;tn half

the Wright ol targe gobblers, it> lirea.*! 1.* Imudand heavily fleshed, and the drumsticks are

twin MMWl and plump. Its quick-maturing

finalities and good fireedipg record make it

|M»[iiihir with tirow'rrs

The inside of an egg is of top importance

In iwruhrvmen. Devotees of poached eggs

want a thick white la cover the y»lk uni-

form I v lint if lb*' hniKcwife funds a blood

spot, -he shte* like a frightened hor**.

Efte candliruc is still done by dexterous

packer> who twirl each ej!ii hi front of a

powerful listhl. At Bel Isv ilie 1 saw a newdec Ironic randier, slill under development

-

Miirh-inleiisity filtered light Ls -3ml throui;h

the ejtji It a bluod srml U presenl. an eler-

trie eye w*" it, rind ihe offending rug *• »i nlcd

Another tireless machine developed here in

I J 52 automatically separates eggs by the

siijihtrrt variation in the coltir of their shells

from pure white through vnrinus shades of

bmwn '|>age 201 ),

The machine got confused only when engi-

neers ran through a few light-blue eg^s nf

thr Aramana chicken of ihile. The ctfgs were

whisked Into the liKht-Lnmn luiskef—not aserious mistake, since chickens which lay

naturally colored Plaster eggs are & breeders*

rarity in this Eountry.*

A Succvt of Growth fruro Chickvii Feed

la lung, low puultry houses at Beltsville

ulirnvkulet liuhts hurti alJ flight. Installed

iiriL'inally for their i>erm-ki3ling power, the

dim blue tubes we re -o n found to Lie boosting

Qtfi pr(jrluc1ii.ui. Scientists Kill aren't sure

why. This ultraviolet "prorlilTne" is distinct

from Ihe egg 'laying stimulus of ordinary in-

candescent light, a technique lann familiar to

poultrynwiLResearchers knou by recent eifwrience that

^tariiin^ rltscovtrirs sntnet imes come from such

»«nuil| cjues- A few years ago the hunt for ahotter chicken fetnJ put scienitsts on the trail

r*f a new vitamin with amazing power to pro.

mote growth k

Purine World War 11. animal-protein feeds

such as fish meal or sJaugliterhouse scraps l>e*

eanie orarcn Soyl)ean*oi1 meal, rich in pro-

tein, was >uhsttluted on poultn.- farms. Ntuade a nourishing feed, hot something wasfnissing. If ni> animal protein was present,

the hat« hahitity <»f Pi?gs dropped, and chkkea^crew too ^liswlv.

Because the first stomach of a cow is knownto manufacture vitajnins^ experimenters a<ld«J

a little dried mw manure in the \tii\ Sud-den.ly birds thrived. Chemist* found a growthfactor in the manure, hut it was none of the

known vitamins.

At that (mint a pharmaceutical firm. MerckiK Co., announced its discovery of vitaminB-12 The ruby-red nysTafs could jrrently

siimulate growth, ft reported, BelLsville tried

Brti on chickens, and it was found to be the

mi^inv fai tur

s\s little as 18 billinmhs of an ounce of

B-12. injirnied into the fertile egg of a henfed a diet deficient in the vitamin, producesastonishing resnlt> in newly luinhei] docks.At the age of five week* they are nearly twice

the sue of brother and sister cMcfca hntchedfrom untreated eggs.

Barrlin^ Aniinul Aibiunts

More rcieiitly. fcMiraMri in many labnra-Inries discovered that some of the miracle-

workirn: antibiotic* stimuhife animal ami poul-

try g^Owtq, Today aureomyctn, lerramycJo,

and penicillin are Iwinii arhlei.l to feed* in

minute quantitjes. Baby clucks and youngpia* ffrow faster and fatter on such wonder-dru^ feed,*.

Ah rarly lask of the Department nf Agn-

• Sec EipU-i' Kirj: Chkkciu.** hv F/nVdck G. Vos-tmrch. NMiuvAt (ir"oi.».iiMiu Mwatuie, Seiiieititwr.

PMS.

2 14 The National Geographic Magazine

culture was to fight livestock diseases, manyof which rouhl be trunsniim-d to titan. AtBcltsvuV's Animal I dst-a^-r Station, no a li 5X1 -

lop tinted by j high lence, the worst plague*

known to American Uirro are studied,

BTUt"ciloffisf for dm, catises the ln*s of someS2 5.000 calves and a billion pounds of milk

C-ach year. In human Ixme* the illness fa

known as uncJuliint fever.

Muni Test Spot* fkao4« Diwase

At the disease station I watched a tech-

nician make tJir milk-ting test, most widely

ilmmI procedure on whole milk for detecting

brucellosis, abo called Band's disease. Inabout twci hours a purple ring formed fit the

top of the it 1*! liibt*, showing (he milk hodcom* from rattle infertH witli the diseasc.

With this simple test receiving depots canI'hei'k fin ir v herds try taking sample* from

cans of iheir mmliinrd milk. If ihr trst is

p05i1ive, blood-sampling the herd isolates the

diseased cow.

In another laboratory vaccine* were being

prepared and tested. Tlverr is no known cure

for Banff * disease, but rmmunircitinu of c»nlr

with such vaccines as Belt wile's Strain 19

i* helping to stamp it nut,

BeltsviUr's ftmtofpcal Dfvfe5o« battle* the

multitude of parasites that piey ail animals—protozoa, nematode:., 1n[M*woniis. lire Fromwork done there I S years ago lias runic a revo-

lutionary drug named phrnoihi<reine. First

tested as an in^evTicidr, it is rniv sn widely

utilized to conmil interim! parasite* of farm

animal* that foni million pounds of it are

used annually in the t'nited Stales*

Man apficared to have trained ;i victory over

insert pests wheal DDT hurst b'kc an atomic

Ih^iL in the inseel world. But the enemies

did not nive up Tin las iheie are files, mos-

quitoes, and rrgikpwchr? that lutiah at doses

nf DDT and wthrr new jriHec.tir.kfcs whichonce would have meant I heir death.

New Weapon* for Farm Wurfaro

Men who study insect immunity at Be!t5>

villr siy it I?- not merely a nuitlex of the Hit-

viva I of the fittest, with each new genera-

tion resulting in tlie* of greater resistance.

They are certain that ?ome liasic physiological

change or unit.o Ion Likes pLire in insects,

making them imrminr To once-deadly doses.

Against such acquired hardiness newer andmore potent insecticide* have joined man's

battle tu protect his food and Tiber.

I watched * worker m a flit* mu^k applying

pttrathioti to a field of strawberries at Hells*

ville. Brhmd a brfehi-rrd tractor white dust

billowed like a suuoke screen,

Vshjb of the new ptrepliorus sprays anddusts such as paratFiinn mttatl wear jjas laia-k-,

and protective clothing under harard of EBOCJS

or death. These poisons, iMrnendal by-pro-

duct? "f World War II research in (lermany,

ate closely related to the fa called "nerve

gases."

We iter live Streets inside glass tanks U>

trbt hmilhing lillrw." said n scientist whodesign:* and checks protective masks. "Often

it's the only way to detect extremely small

amounts of poinm in I tie air."

Other new insecticides, safer fur u«r in

homes and garden*, are criming from KclT?»

vllte. One Is a substance similar in chemi-

cal prqierties to the active ingredients of the

pyrethrum Hotter, amonv man s oldest insect

killers and still one of the roost effocttv*.

Allt'thrin rhc mau-nmrle product, is now on

the market.

Chinu Setidi \u MThuti*kr God fr

Even newer is a famik of |Miteiil insect

poisons isulatcd at Belts%ille turn nwHs of

Chinas "Thunder (faff* vine. T'iptrrywuwu-'illwrfii H<H)k. They knock out ten colonies

of Bs?rii/ullund pests at a strength, of only one

pound to 2,000 callous of >pnty ^lutLnn.

Thunder God w aJrradv Ikritiji grawn at the

Glenn Dale Introduction tiardcn; H may beanother U. S. cmp of wmnrnnr.

In Beltsville's greenhouses I sow plants that

can bite hack at injects. Si-c ailed "sy*cemic

iiiHvtici'des, the unrest weapon of enn>-

moloiiistsr are absorbed from the soil into the

sap stream, Tiny mcktns insects aitncklnc;

such plants are poisoned by the very leaves

00 which they feed.

Flmver-. r.irnaimntTal shtub>. and cottor

plants have been made largely Insect-proof

wilh the^e new compounds. So ffltt3because

tht&MS ayatonir. poiyins break down slowly,

they cannot be used on food crops.

Agricultural science din** not Mop at the

farmyard £nte: research rruches jtfrn'rrs*

.shelve* through study of better transportation.

^Lorage. and marketing methods. It Mim hes

our <iaUy meaLs, our clothes in the closet, the

reiri^eiator and wa*hiim nuchine, even the

soap iwl in I he washinfl iikaithine.

Nutminn M icntttts 5tudy lona-term efiecLs

of vurinu> diets on health by fewim^ differetit

f»hn.ls i" ml?, Thry dnr'liciitc human diges-

tion in test tubes and Ikr&kcr* tu learn bow

the body utilises protein*.

At Beltfi'ille are the chief GovernmentLiWntories stodyini: textiles and clothing,

foixls. co*»kery and h"me canning. Mousingspecialists design belter farmhuiises,

Belt5viBe experts ride pnxiuce trains from

mean to ocean across the Purled States chec k-

ing how fruits and vegetables respond to

various methods of protection and packing .is

they travel thrnuijli the bitter cold of a Dakota

Belfsvillc Brings Science to the Farm 217

winler nr the hruiline

heal of ft Texas sum-mer (page ;H).Laburaiaries dupli-

cate Ihe in>ide of cold-

ftfrtrapr planLs. refrig-

erator cars and mtcfc*,

and the holds nf ships

In one laboratory I

saw a complete gro-

cery store where the

shelf life of fruit* andvc^dribles is studied

(page 207). In Anoth-er, fmnls for CtEtmtng

arc injected with spuil-

atcc organisms and then

luoked varying length*

nf lime, measuring the

efficiency of dEiTerenl

cannine methods.

-U» Plenty #i

Con Manure**

neltsville's *oil La far

frnm perfect, but that

very fact hits hromtlii

benefits.

When ihp ilrdstiih l«i

establish a Federal ex-

perimrnl Matbtt near

Wuhfagtofl was made43 years aitn, Dciwrt-menf «if \urtnilluic

agent? wen I nut dressed

a5 farmers to avoid a

Sudden inflation in

rural real estate.

They lt»ked at land

near Beitsville. whichthen wa> (ikr nut of

Washington bul near arailroad.

"Xot fertile enough/*ilwy reined- "Theland is cheap, but ii\

5Ni.ll ll tlH*4 (Willi* rifc*t'JlkIi|l«f Ram lIUl

Ntriwiiodc-iufcfcted Soil Play* Havoc with a Healihy Cairo t

Pttfa^Lic FivauUcttr*. (>r tmirnlw^inm, prry on both plinth ami iinlinalw (MM'0*1 Dr. LntUhnhl SHfirr HcllnilW1 nenulokifriu. *liuiir* a mien "futile nml-knot iM'tiutitdc ihut i. tiubc. t'jll" tii f 1.1 rin ll a carrots.

veni'i nit.

The Secretary >4 Aurinilture, James Wil-son, blfrw up. "Anyone can grow a crop unjptrnl land!" he roared. "Buy it, and useplenty nf ioW mitrutrc!"

HU wisdom paid dividends. From Belts-

VSUfc once poor field* and pastures have comebetter croji-mtaliou, soil-improvement, andfertilising prm-tiees.

The plant and snfl ^imiist* use 1.7D0 acresto lest iiimv wavy of workmc land without los-

ing it tn eroding water and wind. Krowon-resistant plants frmn foreign lands are niitdird.

On huge carrinrxuphic layouts, aerial photo*graphs are. translated ifllo snt] survey and Out*5cr\'Alioo maps fur farmers.

A few years a*ro. when scientists of theMonsanto Chemical Company discovered the

remarkable soil conditioner called Krrlhim.

they look the palr-yellr.w powder lo Belts-

ville- It was tested at field station; in Cali-

fornia, .Alabama, Tennessee, Pennsylvania,

ami Wbconsin.

Chuniicat "Hinnns" (ainnsicrfi Soil

On hanl linked alkali tlaU und in (hick,

ffiimmy clay the tests proved Krilium acua* effectively a* or^ajne mailer in keeping

wil in a crumbly stale.

The conditioner turns heavy, "difiiculi " Spil

int""> I'Hise. eaialy worked rurth thai sh»n*s

«jg \«t!mj) fit— In ilw Plwl-wTinhnr J.fcn K t\i

Ai-ro*oj Spray*. BcImyjIIc'* Invention, Isolde Inwxr Srouimuy* from Abrtijd

A Public l-lt-jlih Scrvhfl a&ca droftt I'm Atntrti in WWId Airw»y» wwardewf nrniarT buic-lciilinp

pruHL-duit Bt'tarlUe fnroirmlinriM'. who irav* the world Ihc pu.«h-butt<m •t»r«y cam now a«o oVvriitp-in?

Mrikioc improvement in ^'p! ^eniiuiaiion

.mil irnifi yield? TnHay "ru-rul *-td .•<mli-

Ikmrf? |Crve greener thumb.* in millions of

American i^irrlen Invrr*.

In L\ 5. limhtrlaTHls imlay inneeis rank

with fire n5 <le>trovers of furc*!?. Ke]li»ville'<

insect fishier? sect beIter weapons in ivmlnil

forest |»r*i5.

Air Sprny* Rmn Timber Thieve*

From the Brltsnlle airport Natii.iMai tiro-

QKAtWlT | iliMiciffrapli^r Jink Fie tt her ami I

took -if! with a furestcr-pilnt in a bright-yellow

l>cji.irlnii*ni i»l Aunruliurr atrial survey plum1.

W'r ilcw atms> ilir eiperfmental fnrrst

which eow* *.O0C acre* of the RewarrhCenter. I-irtuw ua. tardy above ihe irecs.

flew a ycllnw biplane.

Sud-clvnly at purple doud hurst behind it

The mt>l filled slowly, trailing nut behind

like ttll unrolling carpel.

"DDT," our pilot shouted OW the tngutfi

roar. "For experimental purposes colored

dye* are added to show where the spray goe*.

The U to appK u> Utile a* possible and>iill kill insecti.

Bulh pi:uu-- -wuriii back toward the airport,

rnrnmjz into a tprap path marked by orange

ball hins bobbing mi SO-frtrrC lino Colored in*

*ectiride spray drifted down across n i^ricl

o| aluminum tesl panel* » in wooden *takrs

Scientist* learn ihe srw anil diffusion ol Ihe

droplets by checking plaWi rniemvope slides

<m the fonels (po#e ZQftt.

Such constant and aitrful rrwarrh ai BcIls-

villi- ha* no end. 1'reswrl by all rhr will, in-

cenuii\ . and hiiundleja tnriivjtiy of agrirul-

t ural mience, ihe ecperirnem*' of ilu- htikic

niilfliinr laboratory puard ihe Nation? |»rirc-

lens fmrsis iuiil fanrn. it* fund and cMhinjs.

aiirl it> (inure health,

* Fur iidilitinnul artlrfo nti n«dnilturr, h* ihr

(wo wolumr N.vJnwM ClinTiirAJ'nCr M^axivc Cumti-

lalivc InrJet

Mount .Mckinley Conquered by New Route zi9

Landing by Plane un a Glacier, Climbers Pioneer ;i Western Approach

to North America's Loftiest Peak

ll'iih illmtratwM fruw Phofnt/rapks by tha Author

«T"\i:LT fastened tiuht?" shouted Dr.I-^'It-mv Muocp above 'he spuUerimg of

JLF ihr airi'Uiir - i'llitif! fw \• I nodded

Okay, here we pp>!" Our little two seated

5intilt'-i"ni:ine craft suirted bumpine down the

grave I runway of the nkrport at Chelatna I~ikcr

100 miles northwest of Anchorage. Alaska.

In another moment we were off on an ad-

venture uhkh already had tny heart pounding

with mixed feeling of rxeiiemcnt and. I mustxdntit, n certain ammini nl appre)iet55lori.

Ahead of u*. though iftvisuft Ed a blanket

of fo$ lowered I he 20,300-tot snow-cupi*rdl

control mighty Mimm Mi Kinley, loftiest [»eak

in North America.Mc Kinley was named in tHOri for the Re-

publican presidential nominee of thai year by\\ . A. Dickey, who wiis prospecting in the

viimily. LOQjg before. Ihe ALtskun natives

had called ftr more apprnpricttely, Denaii, Ihe

Great One. Tt had been climbed only siit

times before our IV51 assault.

\lmintuin (Jlimbinit by Airplane

\\ r \*ere going to try what lime after time

hud Iwen dedared tmrx»s*iule—to climb Mc-Kin ley's rugged West Hiutress (page 230),

Mure rM iliriu stilt, we were Eromtf to try to 00

at least a third of Ihe » limb by airplane.

to accomplish \h%>. Terry Moore would

have to land hLs tiny plane on the unexplored

surface of Rahiltna Glacier. This htijie ice

rivet writhes down McKinley s >lnpes be iweenrock cliff* thousands of fert high.

Our expedition had a threefold purpose;

first, to test ray theory fchat M«Rinley's Wttfl

Buttress actually offered a shorter, safer wayio i lie tup than the usual route up the north-

east ^tile; second, To study the geology of this

Uerrundoti- mass of rock; ami third, to do

essential survey work for a new large-scale

map of the arn imniedi.iicjjf nrouuri M<iunt

McKiulcy. FVirl of this map |«MbU<hed for

d)e first time m this issue of the NationalQKOQiuaVitic Maca/isi (payts 2*6- 237).

Our undertaking was sponsored by the Uni-versity wf Denver, the University of Alaska*

and Muslim1

* Museum, of -Science.

MiKuiley";* distinction a?* our continent's

hi^he^l mouutm alow would justify auiking

a map of it. In addition, it i> I he in. tin feature

of Mount McKintey \atimud Park, which is

attracting increasing number* of vishors now(hiiT the famous \ln>ka liiichwny hns madethe country accessible by automobile.*

Impnrianl, loo. is ihe foci that McKiniey'iheight and position, only 250 miles smith of

the Arctic Circle, tmki- it in ideal laboratory

for many kinds uf scientific researt:h*

Arctic Equipment Tested Here

During World War IT three military expedi-

tions used its high slope* to test clothing,

equipment, and food for rumps and planecrews operating in extremely cold climates,

Mt Klnley's height* also provide a lookoutfor observing tosmii rays, which constantlyimmbard the enrth from outer space.f

It furnishes a fine t>ppur1 unity hit weatheroljserv.itkm, tests of the eBcct of a decreaso In

oxygen on the hnm;ui liody» anil higlvfre-

t|uetii*y radio research.

Tt was to make thl$ great h.if.ural l-iboratorj'

easier to reach lhat we were seeking a better

roule t<9 ihe lop of McKiriley and preparing adetailed map "f its *Ii»pe?;and rfaeiers,

Terry Mohtc(who was going; to try to land

me on Kahilina Glacier, is tint wily an experi-enced bush pilot but w;m ;dso |iresidcnl ni theruivei'Mty of .\Ja3ka (hr relirerl This 5inonier).

If we could land successfully, hr w»is to leaveme there with a miwIi radio, camped on asmooth mow plateau. After this it should not

prove loo difficult to By ha to the dacier campmy first three compantun*, E ir Henry Buch-tel, Jamef K. <i«k\ and L'^pt. WUiiam I>.

ITackctL, Willi ibe radio T could tell them be-fore they even took off what the weather wnstike at my end of the line.

kahili oj &ackr is one of the brgesi in iheAlaska Karate and one of tiie nm^lmt. Tohelp u« find our way up it, wt* li.td with us a

The Author: ftr. Hradlnrd W^^hlium i* a ni>UiTmountain rqiWun mul il.r^o.r el !hc Muumoci ofScii:ncp in Himun, M»MiidiuH'Uv Re hn* iracheij Ok"irrrraJi Mount 5frRicJi:> jhrcif limes, and Mr-W.iJiburn i« in iar the iinly wrimsm in bus 4 {limfwlIt. For other mcriini^inrcrinp .irtscltn l>\ t*t. Wash-burn , %f€ Ihf tWO-ValLuiJtll \ATIn\it r.r IPIIH

MarAmr Cumulnilvr livJn ts^'»t^^.V

• Sw ' WildUle of Mount Ml Kuvley Na |ion»1 ParW.**

|mce» in Ihii iisur

f Sit fc,

Tro«infl Coumtr tUy% in Gu*fc4) Nmth,"hv Martin A Pummntl, \*rmv4L n£ix»A?1lir

MAOAnyiL, Junuiirs'. **U.

220

A Rubber Mountain *h..vvs (he Way ir.t Lolly Cnrttr* m Mourn YlvKinlcy

At a auiik to Air Force ptTot> ro dnmptorr nippiiej to climbers higfc on McKinfryN rushed »H»pei,

RrulfuM Wuthbaiti and bb Iwh iipff dauirhti:r rrniilr tblj tmulrl D^iif* tlw pri-ejuitwo. one drup jtnunt

proved dna*i »pU4 (fiae* £tj Hot at Chuttuu. iO tnifei suuthrul ul the bin peak, the author explain*

t« an E*iimo nudirmr hi* t"l.in |o approach MtKEnW* wetucro Incp by pUrv.

<eTie* i'[ .u-riiil phutographs nf Mourn McKrn-

ley which I had taken for the National Geo-

graphic Society and Harvard I'niveraty in

19^6^8, and mi and -

Beneath us n>* wi' ilew. the surTnce of the icy

was al fir*i so limkcii that n»lbing could

>ihrv have landed I here, not even a helicopter,

Tbr fclncier's snout wa? binm under ma*.** ol

IikV -niil gravel. Some* boulders, win- i% hip

oi bunjralo^S piled helte^fkelter in henps

tump Than a hundred feet Wwh.

The valley wall*. :-heer r*xU rid^e*, towered

above us ori both >Jdes Wo (ft* between ut

round llo.ir of pliuul ite and i s4tfj Ieiline

of dark. bIowiiv' (..)£ 2,000 feet alwve ui. Uwas likr" Hying thrown a gigantic tutmel.

However, the cloud ceding .seemed nearly level,

while tbr »er t limited -Irudily. If the Iwo

met. we would be mil ut hick. JQwrfi ihe

valley made a sharp bend to the fight.

As we turned the rocky corner, a arcat rifl

split the cloud* ;is if h\ mai;ic Before U*-

soared lb* thrilling viigin peak of Mount1 1 unlet-, while beneath a mantle of fresh «now,

Looking back, we trmild &ee the dark, evil

tunnel Iroin nhii h we had ju^l emerged.

TTip valley floor below was now; much high-

er, and u <T3>'W blanket covered ihe rough ice.

We were flying ubiriic 2.000 feet nlwve the

glacier. but onr altimeter <hnwwl us to lw?

1,590 Eeel almve wa level.

Ahead the valley iwiMed abruptly La the

IcH. Ihe turn hiding the %-pol where we lu>|ied

to land. Kvery mirtute or two Tuny swnnc the

plane a hit so we ruuld cheek our Avenue of

retre;ir l.'nlil we »ishled goud landlni: snow

we D?uhi noi nfford to let our black tunnel

close up behind iia.

.V* we net!red ihe turn. Kahtltuu tlktcier

•Sc-L* "iX-rr tiir Kwil al Out Conunim," by Hrwi-

lool Wf^Jihuin. NatAowal Ctw-fAiMrtf iUcAtot.July,

22\

A Daring Hn*h Pilot and University fVtoddciM Kiev ihc Explorer* In

On m fihiifit InnrliRR jlrip at 7,700 fcrt« Or Trrri* Mnonr IMil »tan<i* Itfterr hw Utile pUnr wflh Pu<1i-Irl. Ihr auitvm. Harkriv nn.| C.ulr Tjili r Ihr flyer dMppcri in (of tcu at I0JCQ rtlurtiMi^ in U™ lota fuvulK mcctinc at Itw fnlvrr^r «f Ala-ki In Fnirtwoki 2^7'. iJavtiuhi irrniKTinure hnt eadctlJrwn «lishM» dwvr htrntiy t«i about do' F Bnrhtrf mlvc4 the clothinc nrnl>to with juika, long under-wear nml (Mlii'ihn Aiui-sunhqin crf«ro whlTrns lit* lips

became n veritable cataract nf Ire. iwo rntle*

of it to rnu^h it would have been utterly im-Ihi-v*Ii!k' mi fool except along it* rdues.

Then the fickle weather look a Him for the

WOrst. I idimpser] l7.M5.fiNU Mount ftira-

fcrr'? icy cone, known tn natives ** 'Hena!!'*Wife.** lowering up Iwlween masses of ctoud*.

Then the mists rolled in anil a solid wall of

fojt L lulled uut thr valley ahead. Our progressblocked, we circled Impatiently.

Spotlighted n* n Landing

Without warning the break came. A Tiny

paich nf blue sfcjf appeared above, and a shaft

of sunlight bcjinn to move slowly across the

gkti'ier toward ihe sprit where we wanted to

land. We followed ft, circling, for is was mov-ing only ludf us fast as we were. As thi* '"?pot-

liirltt" crossed the valley, we took our thame.Tbc snow below us appeared |>er/e^l—no

bumps, no hollow*, no creva«se$. lerrv Moorecui the throttle, lowered the flap*, and brforf* I

could brlievr ii we were ddoimrruj; the iilacirr.

1 hen we settled for a perfect landing.

$| sooner were »e down than Ihe sun wa*gone a<sun. tt MS 6 a clock. eraaly one hourfrom Chrlatha. There was no time to lope.

We pitched my supplies out on the soft smnr,lifted tile plane's toii around, and faced the

craft down the gentle slope.

Willi a hasty harnbhake and a 'Sn lona,.

panner." Terry dirubed aix-anl. A roar and i

swirl of .Mum and he was off. f heard *hr

drone of the motor for a minute or two. thru

it died away, ;md I wits alone. 7,700 feet upIn The heart of the Kahillna amphitheater,close under McKinlcy's flanks It was so quiet

I roohl hear my heart beat.

It began to sthov lightly The rocky spunfailnl inln ihe fop, and even*thine about me'm all sides, above and below, was white. Anhuur before 1 had bren 40 miles away ;it

Chela tna Lake: now here I wu« a third nf the

way tip Mount UcKinley?All this was possible iweaunc Trrry Mm jit"*

plane wu* equipped with aluminum skis thai

could lie r;uM-i1 hydraulitatly above ihe wheels

bir tuke-*trT on tlu- travel at Chdutna Lake,then lowererl for landimc on (he snow.

A later shovel Is a necessity in a glicter

Ciirrit*- With mine I had in half an hour nlevel spot due CWt f<JT my 7-bvT fnot irni.

Mejawliile. I 5el snow nwlllng onvr a lfaso-

Unv stove. For a month our only fuel would

ft

,

'

, Mask a

Kit \1rVi-li.'7U--**

.1C IMA

Fairbanks is

Aftndtiinunu IKvrr

-v.

McM*tho

JurvffiJ* *S mi'c»

Attn ofnrw tor

Mt.McKinlvy, NcrihAmerica'*) highest p*aV.

alsvfttion 30300 fpet

/ /

far r/i« Ant

t lit I I fl I Mi

ft.

^ I'ljgiifcnu— J V*

1

Biuii n. I mi «ri Inn t tlinumi

Among National Park* Only YeHim*turw U l-ui^r than MeKinJe>

A broad reach «l w4Wcrnwii 'VM «l n»-d» in 191 i W loon AlmkiT* «n-«1

wildlife rcfutf*. ikuw more than ijDOO wjuiur miks In rslcht. Stuirfiwvi r«would tfaiM h<n».M (f.Mii i'atiiocnLiis Whiinr? li*M<35 icrO Iw iWOO-

iool -MiKbifcy »» hiobr-it mountain in the ViuU'd Suites.

Ub i-.iHhtim- am! "ur 'inly s*-.4r-:e of water

melied snow. Unfortunately, snow water L* sn

tlal in taste that drinking it Is a real effort.

Need More Liquid- <«n Ueiilhi*

At high altitudes climbers must double '.IT

ttiplr their Intake of fluid to offset ihc rie-

hydratino thar rcsulu from hrc-^liiTiff deeply

thf rstri-Tniiiy dr\- «h*. Tht' ni'«l for lti|uUU

pvw constantly more prising ihe hi>!lnr weclimbed. We carried pcnrtlervd fruit juk'u to

diss-vlve in out wuiit to nwkr il mart pttlftt'

able, and also drank iir|(c «iu;iJilirfes of frozen

fruit juice drupfwd IuHt bv plane.

After u bite lu tart nnd some 1>gi teaf I

turned off the stove in vivr flasn!inc Po'en

ihwiRh Ihc irmfjcrnlurr WAS only 10' F. As

roar died, I whs in-

ffiantly ijfivlal by ihr

gentle patter of simw*ilakefi on the lent. In

ihc total silence nf the

Ivciffhts fvpo feathery

snr.iwlbike* ttiake a per-

i.rpiiblu sound falling

oa TwtI roofs. Poking

my head wat the draw-

string en trance, T was

astonished lo **e the

rocky cliffe of ilcKin-

le>' quite clearly, with

RahHrna Valley vbible

Ji»wnwuTd f'ir ai lpa4t

nve miles. Tlir suei haddisappeared IxrWivd Ibr

clouds, but the long

nvtlisht of the Alaskan

summer still lingered.

I busied myself mark-

ing our liiilc a-irpon

with all available dark

objects. Tlife Is essen-

tial fi*r bndinu a plane

On smiw wlirn there L?

no sun. no shadow. stD^ihe s-i>iiiiliiy f« mOihenvise. cvrrytbinp

afipeors an even, shape-

ess whhe. All deplli

[>crceplinn is JoWi and

•d> a pil»i nea.t» the

ground hr ha-J ui»lhinc

with which ro gauge his

As the wwtther jilowty

cleared, I hrard Terry

fainllv on mv radio,*

latkina ro the Govern-

ment station at Tal-

ket'tna, some ^0 miles

to the southeast: 'Thi?

is \ 30SS-V he wa»

siyinR. My [Kisition bnow five mile-, north uf

OielrHna Lake, beading

for camp *m upper Kahiltna (jUu'ier."

Al fi:4S TerrvV vuiee booOMXl i»ut loud and

dear : "X-IOtt-A l« SLWW* Can yon see

or hear me? I'm flying ihrou^b dTkrfinu

snow about five mile* below your camp.14 He

was on his way lu- k with Henry BuchtcL

I c&rffM out the door and Imiked down-

racier behind the lenL Tlterc he was, I

cuutd barely htar the pLine's fcelite liulc hum,

I reported, " landing condiiimis maruinal,

filing 3QO-50O feet, absolutely calm. I've

marked a runway,"

Two minutes later lh« little craft ruarcd

ovrr camp and cimte to a perfect landing.

This tinwr the sky l*x»kcd ns if it were

realty ^uba^ lo m«iw in esrnest. \Yc unloaded

Henry'* Rear in a jiffy, and with a cheery

in; -

Footprint* in Rcverw Mark LiploieiV Runic AcniM an Abakan PusaWright cd by ftG-pountl juiltv Biadlorrl WoAfabum "ml his imrty enuht'il Iwo trrt n( tnim tonenfh their

1«hjU > (Mv m*std ltiJoCJ-Jaai Ptjwll Pass, Nrei day wimf rVinvd the pa* of iu too* smnv. nod fhi-IKiUt-rti «fl» fcfi *Uri(lirj? four lu flir jnch&t atime the fcurd «unacc

"See you sewn," Terry was off again into

ihe gathedfki: gloom. Thirty mmucr* later

we heaiH him refiorl I hat he va* preparing toLnul ,it (.Muni, Without Mi skill and <Jr-

lermbiaiinn a«= a bu*h pilot we rnuld not h*ive

been where we were.

\\ C LI lljlM -Htlllttll nil 11 CaluOtT

The weather iSummI rn tiRht. and Jim Galeand Bill Hackett twrt- ^now-bound at Chelaton.The day Builiiel and I flew in. the La5l fmir

numbers of our party. Dr. John Ambler, hrMi'lvin Orifnlhs. Jerry More, ami flurry

Bishop, wi»re nn the Alaska Karlmad. ridingfrom Anchorage la McKlnley I'ark, 80 milr*northeast of ihe mountain. The nexi day theywere 1o drive in Wonder l.*ke, on the oppositeside tti the jirafc (mm us.

While our 4-mfln ream was establishing

[he main base camp near 10400-foui KahilrnaPass anil carrying out our sunn program, thenl hers were to circte the mountain by packtrain frtrtn the north, studying lltr gtmOgy a*i hey progressed Ibty planned lu meel u* at

ba.1* camp *>n Jnne 30 (pages 2.50 anil 24!).Mc Kirileys core is a huge butholuh, «*r mas

of Rranite, whith oozed intci place in the earth s

cnia in molten form. It then rocdrd to. form .i

beautiful pink crystalline rm k. finally exposeda! the siiri-Ke by erosion of the itusL Nearthe top can he seen the point where ihe moltenmaterial met an overlying layer of black .slate.

Once the bottom of a prehistoric sea.

Earthquake- frequently shake McKiiiley.starting Mupendoii* avalanches, but whetherthey represent ihe dying £a=[iN nt (hp force*

that built the mountain ur the bi'izinnini! ofnew upHfts. no one knows.

Red Sky »t Midnuftl

I or two day* Kahiltna Valley was buriedbeneath a den<v of lux and drizzling sww,Then l_bt *feies cleared abruptly, and TerryMoore marie two more swiff rekrye to ourlonely little camp to hrmg in Jim <>ale amiBill Hacketl |pau-e 221).

.V.AI duv *e worked until midnight break-ing I rail up the vast, smooth slopes tit lie

phcier to Kahiltna Pass,

10/00 feet hfeh. We wnwthe first prrstms in history

ever to wtt foot an this

lofty, aiow-covcred saddle

(pope 2531.

Kven at rnldniuht the

northern vky was still a

deep red us twDInht slowly

merged into diiwrj. fcte-

iwk-rn turn* at the shovels,

dispinis a firm base for our

lent in tin- deep, liwse *oow

hi I hp pas*, wc stood catch-

ing our breath and looked

up at the towering pink

cliffs of McKinlcy. Mas-

sive granite walls uf the

Went Buttress more than

a vertical mite above its.

rose w near that they hid

McKinky's summit, 4.JQ0

feet stfll higher and five

mile* farther way.The teni|x*rature w*s 9"

iibove zero. Not the sliflht-

crit wiuml broke the eerie

silence uf the height* cxcepl

our voice* and the steady

thuddirut of the sn"* as we

shriveled. On our Fin*i radio

call we pfcfcftd up ihc CWstation at Talkeeitm, 60

miles away and tquarely

behind the hijfie mass uf

Mount Hunter. The signals

came tfsWgh loud arid

clear. U was a ureal tmtto know thai tint base camp

was assured of reliable

communication with the

ou til iir world.

Wr asked Ta-lkeetna in

telephone the 10th Kt-v.

Sut've-tina; in the SmmIs No Joke

fro The miihin Hfhl«lhr^uirh a Wild Ihroriutitr »i

Kahlttna Pais rU^dltlonmrrahcr HackaC! IwM «<nr*

Diftnultin nt hteh-allUudf «ur-

v<iyiM tnrlwk wind. «fcin?.fulii.

nd the irBccU t>i anori*—ndrncy <j! mypa. t'mhnrtla

th «-»-• thr instruimut.

< Tn ttcra»ly thr th*»«l«dltt,

filler b pouted an>iinri rrir*K)

irif lot Bi» qukkK and

\n»U\% them firm*

1M

Mount MiKmlc* Compared In* a New Ruuu

rut Squadron nf I be Alaskan \ir ("...miormd

in Anchorage. Tell them, we mi id. J hat our

whither was Jierfcet for ihe pirorrnnsed aerial

drop of the equipment we had left with them.Sc.mHy hiid ur i raw led into iilir sleeping

touts, it seemed, when a distant hum awakenedua. Il was ft: JO In Ihr morning, the sun wiwhigh in the tlMidles* sky. ami there, down the

Valley, was the approaching Air Fore* plane.

Jim turned on Uir tadto and at once picked

up u voice: "Air Rescue In k'WO.V* . ( "ail-

ing camp or Knhiltna Ulader. . . Are youreading our signal?"

1 K YVG.u to Alt Remit, he replied Wert!rending yon loud and clear/'

Back Carrie the voice from the plane: "'Well

Im* over yon in aoour iwo minute*. Give u? a

call after we have finished thr first drop andreport how we diiL"

Supplies Hir Wronfi Turret

A* the htfs ( -4 7 loured down only 200 feet

ahoVO IIS, the pilot snmrhoW lnissrd rhr rrrf

cloth marker Uiid WJt on thr snow- 100 yankaway We realised wild Midden horror that

hnndle* and binw flying our the open carxo

door were Manikins directly for our lent!

They showered a round ft, one making a deepi tiller less than BfC feel from (he tent in which

Jim Gale wrw talking oo the radio, II washi-* crwn Ijagnf personal equipment'

ThU near trnijcily iran over cpdrkly wr-

scarcely realized what hed happened. As the

plane disappeared over ihe pass. Jim was yell-

ing into the radio. "Hey* for henvertV sake*

watch where you're throwing that stuff1

Throw il at ihe woirirr, mil thr inn" 4

"Mighty sbny, fellow*,'1

enmc the reply

a* rhr plane circled hevond Ihe pass and llew

back toward us \\V tf« ihe marker now, It

won't luipprn acain!"

This lime supplies came thudding down at

a ViUr distance' tent pole*, survey markers, a

fresh king salmon, nylon ropt, teni pegs.

hirrh'Wand frail markers, extra clothes, tents,

and ftleepliitf bajis. Then name five toads of

breakable supplies by parachute: radio bat-

teries, film, an alarm clock, strive, gasoline,

survey near, even a $mnll nljnrcWtd alcd.

ft Lad Irecn a breathtaking 'half-hour. Wehud nnl yet had breakfast, but more than aton of supplied had already been delivered at

our front doorstep from a warehouse 130 miles

nwa> In the old days iL would have taken

,i 2fl-hor.<e pack train and three wnumlersweek* to move this avid from \mhor;n;e to

the lower end of ihe Krihlllna Glacier, 44 miles

Mow uut camp. From there to where we sal.

rl would havr -m -h a pmdiiiirnis jnb nf

!t.ii L. packing lei mnvr these same supplies I hat

we shuddered even at Ihe thought.

Included in the equipment dropped to us

were 500 pounds of Rirdseye frozen foods,

which we promptJy buried in a natural deep-

freeze cave just outride our front door. Forty-

einht loaves of braid, cadi packed in a puttier

bag, rained dovvn all over our "lawn ", lltey

too were buried and frown. We took loaves

to hiil \%li|i o- wl.cn we wan red to thaw ihemout. On the trail we often carried small caw*

of frown meal inside our cluthing *'> thawthem for lunch.

Ful* Indrec^tihlc at Altitude

Our diet was strong to piotein, which wepot from lean frozen hamhurg and ham, Anample Mipply of frc*h vegetable* and fruit

hetfwl u? forget the almosT total tick of fut

in our rTiei ,11 the hkhest cirrrps. This \ra*

im|»ortani lo out erYiriency on the mountain,fur detrease in oxygen abovw 15.000 feet causes

great dirtjculry in digest uift fai*.

Ivfembcri wf Ihe f'arker-Ftrnwne expedition

of 1912. not realk£im> this, took i|uantiTie* of

(jemmican, rich in energy rmt also very fatty,

This diet caused them <ui h aitute ilfstrew

almve 15.000 feel that they could fcarccly

eat. Irjst strenjith, and unhappily had To turn

liaek in I htfavy storm only a frw hundred feet

from McKmley"* ie»p

A few day5 after ihe ripply drop we all set

out til scale previously uncltmhed ""lVak K."

a snow dome that rose southwest nf camp. Tt

was an easy climb up a rounded ridjrr* buried

under hundreds of feet of perpetual ice and*now. On top we built an ucloo a few yunNfrom our survey inscrummt 9b we coult] ekidge

in for shelter and a cup of hot tea when ourunlets grew ton cold to work the iheodolite

^pnge 22"). Meanwhile, however, it areTr ab-surdly warm, 40 J

F. in the sun, and wt actu-

ally worked in our ?hirt 5lee\'«s.

Jcl* Play Hidc-nnd-Scek

Ai we bwod ourselves rcadioe angles onthe instrument, I heard a curious .worishing

sound far off toward Mount McKiuli'v Ahovetlir tip of the ureal f>eak wrral ttny sil\Tr

flics were pUiyins hidc-and-srek against the

deep-blue sky. Then another appeared, and.mother and Another, till we counted 10 little

^pr<ks Tory were jet tighter plane* from\nchoraife utking ufterniMO men ise aliove

the moturch of North America (jxuee 240\ t

As we stood watching This eslrannlinaryshow, I was rerniadrd ot John Gillespie

Mai!e«. Jr.'s inspiring pavem, JfiqJt F/iqAtt

PVt whrtSirH and *o»ml nnd ovuiu;

Hiari in Ihr smith -dlfnnr. Hni 'rirm Ibrrr.

I've chaseil the vhouiine wind rdotie, *ni*l flum:

My «as*r en It through irmuVv halts ol air

I've topped thr vrtnd-iwrpt ln-iicht? »i|1i mn iaan*.WTiirr tirtlrl Ifllfc nf rK,u rnt\r. fli«A-

.

Two of the planes left the others ami dived

The National ( jeo^raphii Magazine

toward IK ai terrific speed. I look uut u pocket

mirror ami ibi-bed ia as they swent by a mile

or two awny One w herled suddenly toward

us, iind I fbeshi'd hrm apain as lie passed t*e-

IWirii the Min and iti He wobbled hi* wing*

slishtly, then headed away for a minute. Bp*

fiurently talkiius In hi* i:ompunion by radio.

Plane* Biucr. {lamp a! 600 Miles an Hour

' hn hinu almost ma nl sight, they turned

lowly uik] headed kick, Approaching al a

daggering q*rd— probably 600 mile an houror more—they screamed over u* srartely 10(1

ieei above our heads. Wr could Nearly see

tiie pilots waving,

(irncrf Lilly they strung upward to the cast.

Barely ;i minute later they had rejoined their

Loniradr*, ac-ven miles aw.n ami nn»re tlun

S.000 feet above us. Thai effortless minute's

climb was soon to Uike us seven days andnights nf nearly constant lull.

As the -iMrruMui) vvnre on, Mack tbundrr-

heads over the lowlands to (he mirth began to

rumble omiiinLLs.lv. ami wr <*w pray streamers

of rain pourinii down beneath them Into thr

darkened valleys below. A breeze broW the

-tillruiMj and, our survey done, we hesiLated

in front of the igloo, worried )est the stormditch us during our descent.

The brecxe grew to a wind, tin? wind to agale, and then the storm hi! us with terrific

vlolejfce. Wr were far above the lightning

and rain, bnl the crest of the turbulent massof rluiid dung a furious hi taunt at us. Weretreated into our igloo and at the wry height

of the howling tempest enjoyed a tranquil

afternoon Ira.

Ati frgloo I* a wonderful shelter. It's ukiI

and -hady on a sunny day; wnmi cosy, andimiet hi the wildest storm; juid it doesn't flap

In the wind. Constant flapping of our 160(4 at

night on previous* trips had caused us to lose

many hours of mudi-needrd *drrfi.

For an hour and a half the bli/Jtard buffered

our retreat. Then, n$ suddenly as it came, the

great eJoud drilled peacefully "ff. the -mi

bum mit. and the wind died diwn in a gentle

breews.

Quid Ifeauty F»lhuv» BIiy.'£iird

\s we started homeward, tiie fresh snow«fittered all about US. Evening shadowsreached armss the western buttresses. To ourleft the wimW lowlands twinkled with myr-iad tiny lakes and streams reflecting the low

rays uf thr SOli, fn thr disherit* we could

hear occasionally the rumble of avalanches.

Al base camp we spent several days in

survey work for the new map of Mckinley.This map began to take shape in 1 045 during

World War 11 1while T was a member of an

Array Air Forces expedition on same of the

|w-afcs near McKinley. There we tested emer-

gency food, shelter, and clothing fur use in

ihe Arctic. To help pass the time, we hadour supply plane drop uj a surveyors transit

to measure the angles between a number of

point* and to determine locations and heights

of manv unmapped peaks.

Two 'years Liter, in 1947, KK.O Radio Pic-

tures. Inc . asked Boron s Museum of Science

ti> help obtain inoLion pictures of mountainscenery M hiirii altitudes on Mount McKinleyfor use in a forthcoming film, At the sametime they nssreed to support our survey pro-gram and other scientific work there-

in cooperation with ua, an Air Force B-29made vertical mapping photographs of the

entire area from 32,500 feet, while we 'lid

ground survey work on Mi Kinlev «- o|>l>er

>]ope= to lir tin- \ni tuns loyrlher. The IT. S.

Goa^t find Geodetic Survey lent us two power-ful Zeis* theodolites.

Su rvcy ine frum J 1cKm ley[

s North nn<

I

Si^uth Veaks had been no joke, On the South

tVak it wits 2D4" btdow zero. Often a gust of

wind bumped my face against the theodolite

eyepiece- Then 1 lud to carry out the obser-

vation all over again after making sure the

instrument had not been thrown out of level

and position.

Surviryjiirf on Brink of Disaster

Thr \1u1h IVak culminated fn a narrowpoint of snow where there was barely room to

< lritr away a level triangle three feel on a side

to r»et up the theixlrtlitr. One carele&s Mepwould have plunccd me down the frightening

Witkrrsham Wall, 14.000 feel high.

In jerial nuipping, two picture- uf the samearea .ire taken 1 few second* apart. Mewwlthrough a sierev*s*ofic, they apfH'ar a.-* one. in

three dimensbns, with slopes, hekhts, itnd

depths .41 vividly evident that accurate con-

tour lines can lie drawn directly from the

photographs.

r*iint dl tivriiEablc data to ax posit »• it- ;imi(

nltitudes, and ^teref^copic picture* fcrr forMrg-

rapby, the U. S. Gcol^picd Survey mappingoffice at r>enver, Colorado, produced a mapon a scale of 3.9 miles to th*' inch. The datato be obtained by the VS. Const and Geodet-ic Survey- and n new -Muyium of -Science partyduring 1*53, with that ua tin-red ijurin« uur

1°5I climb, will jirov^le information for .sever-

al mfle^ti»-the-lnih quadrarude maps. *w»mc ofthis mappinu has already been done, andabYMjt 120 square miles of the central jiorlioii

are shown on the in.ip :iccompanvani» this fir-

tide (puts iithi&iy.No eoinph-te hinje-scaltf ma|i of Moonr

McKhiley has ever been made before.

On the evening of June 30, while we werereturning from a rei onnaL^aiiCe of McKinley '5

237

Ofie Bedroom, No Bath: Low-co»I MoumojJ C^mes Fa*j for Mountain F\plurcr*

Tilinn a iip from thv RiJumos, r%pr*Eclon rocmton "4vrM out" lirnl weather in compart •turrrifiroat

Idoot. Ai the ?.:c*M«al humi. Jim Clulc Utrll Lhu ch* In about An hour with aW'H and «<impa«i vin(Uituit In SHW) 5h.i i»rd hnlUbnc IHocfcf air (ttdunnriT fmra kanl pm ktrl hoiiw. Look tanwr pfjftl mi <miiiilr

liriniilu rctrn imulaimn Rmr-<a1nrrd Rhus^i «u*n1 ftiilit'i rytH xcun*l mew blinrmvu.

lower *I'ipe*. wl' MiY tmi infinitesimal i|wk«:4ppnjaching *>ur camp 2,000 feet below. Hohind them another pair of dots inched over

the crest of Knhiltna Pass and started downthe strep hill fnlo ramp, Our other four com-panion* bad arrived.

An botrr later we snciwarned In ami Imitul

a reunion dinner already on lite stove. It wu>actually only a Few day- since we tail wnMel. John. Jerry, and Barry. 1ml KUSUhOW it

seemed as if we had been separated for mortvhv

TIh?v had been drenched tiy uur bliijwrd-

1 luuideratorm. plagued by swarms cd blood-

thirsty mo^uilikes, and had almost lost a pack

how in a hoitoitdeas bo«. Also. Ibey hadmarked jwci key survey nation* for m, one of

them on the summit of lO.oOD-foot i'eters

Home, which Barry and Jem had climbed lor

the first time in history.

Letter from Hcjshm Onl> 3 Days Old

Two dm later, Terry Moore tended at

our luMGO-fiKit-hiuh camp and ia\ird mi the

"airstrip" rittfit tip la the cook tent with truth

fdm. and other sw^ilie-^; otic of Ihe let*

ten. had l»een mailed in Boston only three duy*

brfure. Tills was thr hi.nlost aiqilum- landing

ever made in AJa>kn up to thai momrrn.A* it lurnrd nut. It was safr enough lor

Terry i<» have Intided here fa«rt*jul "f lower on

ibe glacier in the first place. Rut. cot havingchecked pnnmd rnhdilioiu ai the pas*, ue

played it safe.

Terry lingered while we read our mail andchiiMerf over tea. jam. and cracker*. Suddenlyhe exclaimed. 4,'G<km1 ni^*ht ! It'* S orluck. T

have only two hours to gel hack to Fairbanksfor a faculty meeting!'

Hi.- mcaHinjE was 160 mile* away and 0,650feet below u* on Uir other 5ide of MountMiKiulcy. Iti a jiffy he wa* oil over the pas*

and nut of jipht. loiter we learned he made it

in plenty of rime to sbtijj his heavy i fnlhe* amiparicjt. have a shower, and don a summer suit

Fbw «ortedtsurvey work completed, and

our party reunited, we focused our attention

on Mount McKinlev. The route bv which

we intended to breach its western barriers

ftnrled iu<;t behind our camp.We had rureftJly planriL*d it in avoid huae

iTevJWjSB* and avalanche>, thr- \ major dan-

Rcit of the old route up tic oxhvt -i ll li.i

The Natinn.il (ito^rupliic Maya/inc

lu.iuiiiain. Al in <t >Vt' iollowtd tJu- hot bun of

a hruad hollow idled with hundreds of Tiret

of drifted, wind-packed show. When a big

ri'i'V7iM?i* begun 1*1 block niir way, we dimlwil

=harp slopes hi the creM of the rid^ce which

pa roil tiled our route lo the left,

Actually we encountered only two crevasses,

small in comparison l" those on the northeast

approach. Above, Ihe grade way not srrrp.

hui In one place we struck a patch of blue-

green ice as slippery as an Joclirred sfcatEnu

rink ami had ti> take ofT our snowshoes andstrap on iron creepers, or crampons.

Three c 1 11 msaud feet above camp those yiuw-

and-icc slopes ended abruptly in ti massive

iznuiite shoulder that rose with dramatic

steepness 3.000 morr fret In the IM-XW-foot

crest o{ McKin1«y's great West Buttrejfc.

Here, fn the very shadow of the cliff, weset up our first advanced ramp We had

recannottered this route and marked it with

birrb wands stuck in the snow several days

before. The em art firuan party tinkled ii for

the first time with bO- lo QO-pnund parks on

rhc Fourth of July.

A Nifflrt at "Windy Qrrncr"

As we stnuiijled up to our ramp site late

lhat afternoon, Ihe wind hived tluoush the,

ijranilc ledges al our ieet, Tlic sky was gray

with lowering mist. A sea of i loud* filled the

valley.* below, and snowitakrs were already

beginning to fall. Thai ni^hi five of us stayed

al "Windy Corner. " aa we callird il.

Mi L Barn,-, and Jerry returned lo hase rampafter hauling up three loads of equipment. For

the ni'M week they would continue Mel's £*o-

loeir exploration several thousand feet below

us, around the tia&e of the upper peak.

Camp was set on the snow about 100 feel

from tie rocky crest of Windy Comer so weCOUld find snow blocks for building an igloo

and a windbreak wall to proirit Off cook tent.

W'v built a brra; tunnel entrance on rhc lee

tide <if the ij?loo to help keep out ihe wind.

There i> nu real vhriler anywhere on this

west side of McKinley. The big storms are

almost ftlwayA toutlrwrstej?, which originate

uut toward the lip of the Aleut tan Islands

and strike The peak with tremendous violence.

This route hrw one advantage1, however: buf-

feting wind? were nl our hacks instead of cur-

ting our faces, as fhey do on Ihe northeast side.

After a ccutv. peaceful uErJu in our lirloo,

where our body bent and breathing kept the

inside tHuperaiurr up nearly to freezing, wehad a real Job dfucini! our way out lo break-

fust. The entrance to our tunnel was drifted

in Mild with fresh snow.

From our snue and calm shelter wc eraerned

into a roaring storm, with fKl-miles-per-ho«r

jrusts, dense fug. and a wild blizzard. Ft look an

Imur la esaivate the half-buried cook tent, rotiejiien the guy ropes, and pet inside.

As John Ambler crawled into the tent, hi--

beard white with frost and icicle*, lie aidwith some disgust. "This kind of climbing is

about MO percent trying to stay alive and

warm. and ouly 10 percent cTirnbinel"

C5a!e Wows *4l Mites tm Hunt

A storm of tncreasinj; violence lashed c.uup

all lhat day. We ventured out In relays rlur-

in fj the afternoon and huHi another igloo,

connecting it to the first one. by a small

doorway. By suppertimr the gusts were hit-

ting 80 miles an hour < measured by anemom-eter), and the temperature was down to 14'

aFiove zero, Smrw fell so thickly we coulil not

see a thins. Luckily, it wu* blowing so hard

the snow could not accumulate. Il simply

whirled off uut of sight into the valley overthe 2,000-foot cliff in front of camp.On July n ihe wind died down and the skies

clriired rapidly. This day and the next w<

carried a weeks supplies up to 14.000 feel,

along a broad, gently sloping snow sheff al the

side of the cliffs.

Climbing hither, we tied knotted ropearound our snowshoes tn keep us from slipping

backward on the steepening slope. Jim and 1

started ahead ui tiiL' < it hers and rapidly £ot

Into Trouble. Here the snow from the recent

storm lay drifted deep all up the hfllsirir.

At fust we made fair heidwiiy with mr 60-

poundv» tu:k>, but then we U'«ari to slide bHck-

ward several inches nl vwry step. I look

off my snow^mes and prompliy broke lhr<»ujih

thr mist up |n toy wai.st I put them on again.

<"<ik ihtf shovel out of my paclc. and started

enrvrng liirgc rial steps ahead of us.

Then, at 15,000 feet, thr slope slceprned

again and the surface snow was crust ei.| jn^t

ehiniL'h so that ^nowshoes would not hold onit. The spot where «w? wanted to make ournext camp was ?til| 1 ,000 feel nbiive,

Di^mi a Palh tvith Shovel*

We had only rwocholr-es: wait two or three

day^ until wind anil cold burdened the s1o[k-

W) we coutil walk on il without snowshocs. or

shovel a frail up the mountainsfdr to an ice

shelf about 4O0 fei-t above Oirr time wa^running short, and. also, it might snow again

We chop* lo shovel.

When 1 got so tired I couldn't lift another

shovelful, Jim took a turn at it. After anhour's work I looked back al my pack: it

was onlv 100 feel behind us.

In another hour condition* began lo im-

prove, Afier that articling uphill struggle wrwalked and slid back to our packs in about

three easv minutes. We reached the 15.400-

(Ttxi continurd on pa$r 215)

New M ips i.f .\(u*lui Mnijnruins (Hvv Much |o the Author's F\plt»r iitiinis

K»fy vorrty polm for Washburn's \isiU was- -rVjk 7." (map, i30-JJ7> Hrti!. si 1JJK0 lev!, ilimbm tuckft|UJ|inimi up Its ilupe- HclnniJ iJirm McKuiky's wmrrn larc warn anntisw ?#0o l«l into tht* iky,

North Peak19450

2M)

Mmmluitt Oimhinu. h> \ir: mi Inmivaf ion <if the Author** Ascent

A lirfii plitnr lairipj th.it rinlrirrn ,1 :tiircl ui Ihr way d$i MtKmlcy. From ihrfr Ihc m turtle wa? a* it hn»

.'Ui.i>«. U'-iri men of| fool infiwl ttudi I'ti.-.u .u.Lm. «nd (liiuinlstunt: uxyeaL Tin- pJnuc l^unii-^i jL I U 100

l*rt were % fw liialii-l cvtf cruilt In \U<-Jui ti> I hat time.

M.uiiai VUKimIlVs Siiuth Peak Provides Lofty Site fnr Co*mio Ruy Studies

Mvre of Ultac powerful ray* Audb ihe turtfa'j »urfa*-c ncui tlar Pole* than rferwlwrr; thrv hrsl MihI[im| At

Jiizh altitudes rtrt£e 3W> One nbjvrt al ihr amhnr'r 1951 trip wa* to pianm ft route (marked) bp nttirfa flii*

umt auiiiruk Uln.nii n k-M t « morr ncrcMilik 1» sdrndsli

.Ml

DiturfuJ lit Snow •iiuititliMl GiuntM, o (.l--\7 Circles Before Dropping Supr*H*:s»

What arvprnr* to be a bird (rijdit rrnicr} h actually an Air Force C~l7 cargo GW *ith a wingaprrad nf M Tect.

T«iu*rin$ far almur <t b liAU-/Mit Mtiunl Mather annul Uir the Jir-l <Urcrtur of th* National Park Smirr-

235

No Place for a Mraricp mi Tl»ese High, Sfwiwy Slope*. li\ a I^mtf Way Down!

Tlir hrdJ of EWriikt i itadcr. <>nr of the Tnn;r»t In ihr AIihVa Hangr 'rVi « .rK^1 jcri tirlmv (txchi). The itarp 1l rQ0Q-

loot peak Itiip mnlrrl i» unnuraril. umlimlxxt Mount Mather ha.i bct'n Llimtatl faul oner, in 1057.

Aerial JMunuurapus utiJ Dufttvd Ground Surveys MjJc Ttu* M;ip Possible

Wictenfam Watt rt c four-mfkfang, 4&-ijcgrtc i'ope with tt

vvrticaf drop of 44.000 fe*t

fram North Peak

MOUNTMcKINLEYSCALE I.633S0 OR ONE MIL£ TO THE INCH1*

Copyright iV53 by fAr Kasronof Geo^njpftrc Saeiery

TltU Nailniul Orographic Smim rtup vhuu> MuunlMcKinlcy ipt lb* ftr*t i(w fn tonjr-sfnlr del nil mullinghum rrcrni HjrveVT- TrinfigtiUtJoa l> by Dr, llr,i<fuifi|

Wiwhhum unit oawouritt* by ibc L- S. Gcatagkai Surveyand Ui Wa&liburn from ArrUl |rfial<urrapln taken by him*r*i lH<* U. S: Air Forte. Mckinky *> elevation, :CCW0 irrt.

b (mm Ur WaslilmrnS nWrvanum Furthrr *i|fvty

work hv him ueh3 the C. S Cnatt Mil Ufode-tic Surveyihift uunmirr ttm> alter ihii figure ilSjhily ktllri Hrjuinc4s by- National Gmii;2j|>Ui- railaKmphrr Yk&Qrl J. Kdlry

337

Mount McKinlcy, Firsi Ucpurrtd in tJWft, Win I nennqucrc-d Until 1913

Mount Mckinley's Fronl P.»reh Offers a Spectacular View—but Doei't Full Off!

From a t*rdi above McKinlcy** V2**i Dutlre-*. Jim G»l« 1i>uki *cci>ss tu Moum Uuntrr i tw-ulm. T*Ike «f ibe

lim fri^lii 1 radius I4-5WO utet, N«r here the cXl»>ifjtU<n\ Meheit fsunp *a» wt u|> Ipwse MM,

231

Thuuih 13Q Miles ,\wb>', Mount Spurr Show* Plainly TlirmuSh iho Cold, Dry AWK-iliilirm CSIacirr Irkrhl) flow* Ilk* a vatt •hn:.:i^< river Brv-ond m tbr dimmr Tonnw IT£69-foot Maunl SpufT-

At 1st •**>'. but uid*k')> U hue ->t i he fell, fe Mtt-fcwl Ancbanwr. Abilu's Liriem diy <|wpuiitunD

-

1-1

: 1

S: e

si<

E

4

*

B

-1

111"

i ilia;1

ilt»13f*I

«- C

I ' iicJv S« in' * K<hi f ! 'ip Lies I .tide r

u Viiir-riiiinil lllnukcl nl Snow

lo "lotccruunrt" u( ihK ptiuio-

<l.irk bam) rirnr tofit . Arrow tnark^

>lVJtK IVjk 4)! Moutil MiKiftlr*.

2*Td Weary Climbers This Slope \A u "Slippery tm Groused (ilaW

Ain-fciin In-lljiv. |u»>w Mount McKxnlcv as l>rnafi—ih« Crcnt Oar. ftrhind Hmkru • < and Gale, inching upIhe Icy Wpu BuUrrw Jrwmi K.WJ-lool Mourn Forxkcc—"bcnnli') tt tic"—"JJ milft awuy.

Mount MtKinlty Curupjcnrcl by a New Route

font shelf at 2:45 p.m,futterly exhausted anrl

dripping with inspiration.\'p there, three miles above the sea, wc

began to feel Che in sit]ion 4 effects of anoxic,

or deficiency of oxygen. Anosiu increasingly

impair- .1 L'liniber'e judgnKIlt, alertnrsA, and

will power the higher he gels. He become?

apathetic, careless, and tends lo put off doing

ihi|Hiriam tasks, ur doe* Utein sloppOy. Worstof all, though In* realizes hi* companions ore

affected by it. he is convinced chat he himself

is perfectly normal.

Ox'yjfcn Lack Causes Errors

Once En I047rwhen an Air Force plane

dropped a load of supplies to w>. 1 told themhy radio that everything had landed ill riifhl.

V tunlly one imixirtant Iwx had Munched

anoxia hsil made mc tab careless to Huearound and check everything.

£Sur writing became lew lee tide, and webegan m make elementary errors in arithmetic.

Fnr I his reason we carefully doiilde-checked

our surveying figures. Once, because, of

unoxin, we fter up the theodolite tripod so

)ii#h I had lo ^UiuE on tiptoe to ser Through

it And anoxia made rtw so apathetic that I

used il in that awkward |>osJtion and madeseveral .-illy error*, which fortunately werecorrected litter.

Anoxias ill effects can be reduced if aclimber works slowly and rhythmically, with-

out wasting energy. If. carrying a heavypack, he chance* to stumble, it U often better

for him to go ahead and fall than to expend

strength in u stubborn effort to retain bis foot-

ing. There h no known cure (or anovia encept

tattled oxygen, which fat too heavy suid

rlumsy to use on McKinleyS»? perfect was the weather that after a good

lunch we goaded uurseh'cs into action andtackled one nf the real enigmas of McKinley s

wp$t face the lust steep slope leading lo the

crest of the West Ihitrress It rose directly

(jOQ feet above our shelf ai ail average an«Ieof more than &0" (measured by clinometer).

The final obstacle, now also clearly in sight,

was the lauken. rocky crret of the ridge lend-

ing from the top of the InDOO-foot shoulder

to n hrrutd snow plateau at 17.Z00 feet. From(lure to the summit aerial photograph? dearly

showed no unusual difficulties; simply J.JOQ

fc*t of sleep, wind-iKtrked <now <l«|ie&,

The mountain face above our "Crow *s Nest"

camp at 15,400 feet was in just as evil shape

as ihe hill ttp had foueht all mominj: B ftr*

litunired feet below. From -t o'clock till 7

Jim and I took turns choppinc steps an the

most wreiched snow imaginable.

On the .surface there was a thin, breakable

crust: tinder tt a layer of graimlaT snow -h 1 1

1

lake buckshot; then another thin crusE. then a

lew inches of powdery snow, and finally asolid mass of hard blue ice. all sloping muchmure th.in the avrrape roof-

We wow crampons and were tied to oppo-

site ends of a 120-foot nylon rope. Theman who was not chopping steps constantly

watched the rope in case of a slip. Neither ot

us spoke. We Just chopped and chopped.

iVctow tin* top of the shoulder the going

became 50 strep, and sandwiched layer* of

fluffy smm and thin ice so UrHilwrnus, that

w*e cor i iff to the riant and vainly u'kh! tn find

better aoing in steep rock ledges.

The wind was rising aeain, and, despite the

fact that the ridge was now only a stone"?

throw ahead, we decided lo ictreat lo campand rnurn to our msk !n ihe morning. It is

not wiw to climb on so >ircp n pitch whenone is cold, exhausted, and hungry.

As we descended, we drove three 5- foot

oak pegs into the snow and straw; a lenttih

of sturdy hand line all the way down to camp.It was late rlwl luglil Ivefure Jim, Bill, and

I finished building an tglon beneath an over-

burmiou ice cliff at the (row's Nest, Henryand John, aflet hrlpiinr, carry up sup]dies.

hud returned to the Windy Corner camp,knowtow our lime was limited, they generously

agreed lo Irt us go up first. They would follow

us to the sum nail later,.

A furious westerly gale roitred over rampall ni«ht, Wlien we awoke, the sian was hUhand the wind had diefl tn a breeze. Itenutiiul

cirrus clouds topped the sttrrrnTiLH of McKinley,Fornker. and Hunter Ipiii^e 240).We breakfasted and rested until noon, then

tackled the big slope wilh 40-pound loads*.

What a cnolrast lo out first trip! Fresh

driftedW DOW filled our steps, but this waseasy to bruxh away We climbed upwardslowly but steadily, puilioii on the hand line

each step.

Looking KIN 10 Fecr Dtm'n

In a scant hour we reached the top nf thefixed rojie. This I Imp we were fresh andrested. Another hour of chopping broughtus to firm rock, up which we ^rambled e^sihto the very cfest of the great Wi'st Buttress.Peering over its other side, we looked almoststraight down a.000 feet tu the U(jrwr basinof Peters G lacier.

The ridge ahead was a granite knife eriBe,studilrd with angular boulders, we neareil

17,000 f(*etTthe ^mde lessened and the rock

i hanged abruptly from granite to slate at thegeologic contact iielween the peak's gratnite

tx>rr and the inky-black cup rock.

The wind blew on our hacks in gust.*

of 30 to AO miles ;ui hour. In the lulls wecould hear ihe ^ale roarinc thTOi^h the jaggedledges of the Nurth Peak, half a mile awar

{

240

Tail 20.IMHI Ftci and SliJI Coin* Lp: Climber* Wend South Peak'* Grtttf

Tb*" irl'riil vi 111mil n| Nurth A rnvriutft hletirAl futalv k ftlroul Hi In W) |ri*i ol J*aiiI-|ijii )>vil .'.now HrjrIUIL FWk*U (ahead) and Jim Galv-t *>i uV I'fcftwUfJobi toil ui> thr final »ln(n\ roni|wdrnE ll»r fir»t awnffr«iu the wrst An 5-finu ImruImu pule <uppri rischli. pUccil l/y th* author jwiu. main- ilu'ir

ll vrat M\ riiliiui nut Ihi nU.- I.nt \* :tr u.-htti Hurkrti ,i|tiin madr the <Jiml>

As we lopperj the final cnu? o( I be ridge, a

level sitfft Add stretched .ilicad In the loot of

Denali Paa».

lite wealhrr was wfireeninjfi The warmwrM wind cnuUI lirina; us uolhine but trouhlr,

and we dared not linger lung ill this desolate

and i-x;»sed spot. We cached «ur load* and

weighted thfffl Anwti with t<H:ks, then hurried

back down Ihr ride*, collectinc r*xk speci-

mens set aside tm the way up.

Next morning, we climbed back up with

55-pound Kinds, The clouds grew so dense

thai when we rewched our 1 7^00-0* it cache

it wsw impossible laser 100 (eel nhcad.

\Vo had to push on In find firm srniw for

building «"f fetf iifliK>. After 15 minute* uf

ttfotfa£$ gropinc we found on reives bark near

our Cfithe. We had walked in a circle.

Lrnirftg up our direction with Ihe m. U, I

rmked one of the birch trail markers into ihr

MKrtr SO Fw*l out from thr cd«e of the Irdiies,

then proceeded to the end of the -|m. Jimheckoned me a bit to the ritht rmh'l I was

hi line with the first wand. Then I Muck in

another^ An boui later, surveying ounwlvrs

forward awn\ss the pUiienu through the dervefog, we saw sharp chunks of rock protruding

Ir.rm the icy snow at The font of .McKmfet't

final cone. This wuj. rhe spot we had chosenfor our l.isi camp site, at I 7,300 feet.

Suddenly a pnich of blue appeared over-

head, our shadou* became visible on the

snow, and the clouds cleared away like roadie

Hour* latrr. as ihe sun clipped behind rhe

great cliffs of thr Wirlh iVaL. a m\ of golden

iTuuils filled all I he valley* tie-low ti* Onlv

l ienali and klenilrfl WUe rfott HWVr ihem like

two enornuius filands fpai{e 244-).

July 10 dawned with-

out a, iJoin I, When 1crawled mil of the iidoo

tunnel to check theweather at S fl_in.» It was10 above mo with u

brisk >muh breege; yrt

inside it mu 25 =nliovc.

We ate breakfast hur-

riedly and set aside

things needed fur a trail

lunrh. Today pack*u i,r |is-hl — onlythe inevitable extrarlollmitf, a cnod supplyof frail markers. food,

cameras, ami film,

< >ff for ihc Summit

As we hoped, the last

t,0OQ-fnnt slope leading

to Dcttali Pnss was rela-

tively casy» coveredwith hard snow, jiucLed

like icr In ** mie places

by the winds Ju.M after

ni.t.F, I llr -r.uli- s*l*r-

denly leaned, vnc be-

ftiin to see familiarledges, and a shapdes?bundle appeared ahead,

f #ave a shout of Joy.

This was I he cache oj

cosmic ray appaintu*

rlmi wii.t left there byour I <M* «-x i I ion,

which hut climbed the

other side nf Mount Mc-kinley. 1 1 wa$ still

neatly covered with U»c

yellow rayon cargo para-

chutes wlili ivliieli it hadbeen dropped in i|5 bv

the JOlh Revue Sqtrad-

mn four years before

Wfi rnn toward the cache but, pamiii£ nnt\

pttflfritg, bad to stow oar paceai once. Fittsdly

we u\ieh«! it, mil of breath and sprech-

Icss We shook hands heartily. Ai long kuuMcKinlrv'r western fare had liren climbed!

We noticed a shovel lying in the snow a

hundred yards east of the pass As Jim walkedover to it. Bill ami I mm !•> it near-by *f>nt

where we had left ji lnr«e niche of food fuel,

and equipment ur ihe*li**i*f the IW7 espedi-

t ioti-

RecnrdiiiR ThcmnmitfCer Sbmv* —

A shocking scene of confusion met our evrs,

'IV party which Hnd climbed McKimVy in

1948. pmhahly iri dt'^prrale nml of .supplier,

hnd rip|»ii off the tent* ami parmlmio withwhich we had covered the cache, and left it

unprotected Snow and ice, driven by scream*

247

Old Glory Signals the Victory over McKinley'* Western Slope*

ll;icLctl itrtn uhI G*Je mi« ihc Star* m>i1 $u\{*n no llir wimi wliippnliiijiittiii of South Peak. TV lUtr: July 10, 1051. The flujrpiili' b I lie «nu- on*hifCly Yteihlc in llir t^>utnnraph nn tJie ojif^isj!) ivi^v- lit xnli* tiulhiiu! v,'iL&

ini? paJes, had pcnetratril every crovk andcranny Tlir who|r hc*«f» wn^ fnwn into .i

solid, ri^id ma>^ Only a)»out a third of theFUpplios remained.

la a neai-by |iilr of VKks we found TheAmerican Alpine '-'lob's mininium-recordinKThetrnnnie Irr. ;dso left there in 104? It re#fc*

lerrtl l«*|uw zero, tlu- euldeM iKnip^-uiiTi

?dnce it was last adlusJinl, proiimablv in

194S. Actually this wa* a ^urpri?inply warmrecord for that JitliiunV. feel.

Suddenly Jim leaned qrtf with an e-xclania-

thm ajwl pi«Ltn| u;i n rim bird, u lilllr red-

poll, which lay froxra dead in a crnctk Iwi^tcdthe rocks.

fn l°-t7 we h:«f fonnd am it her rrdpoll ..unl

a Laplanrl hmgvpur near the pais in Ihr samecondition. Kvery y&tr thoiiuods of tiir^e

migrjitirtg birds must be swept to their deaths

248 The National Geographic Magazine

far up on McKinlcy by warm spring gales.

Thuusii our main objective had l»een at-

tained, one goal still beckoned. AH three of

us had stood on the summit of MrKinley Itc-

fore; yet wr now had a compelling desire lo

climb to thai snowy cresl just once more.

To rhc Tiptop of n Continent

A pluniehlte cloud coursed over the ifp of

the peak, but we knew it would vankh in the

rhill of late afternoon. As we cfimhed, the

cloud dropped lower, and at 1°,000 feet wewere inchinp forward through dense fop. But

now thai we knew the way. every undulation

of the etjdw was like a familiar tree or sign-

post, for MtKinleys tTpprtr dome changes

scarcely at all from year to year.

At 5 p, m, the clouds melted away, unci the

summit rjf McKinley rose directly ahead, mag-

nificent in a fresh coal of silver frotfL Weworked upward iiwr the corniced drifts- fin-

gers numb frum taking picture&. Forty-five

minutes later we topped t h rr final drift of Mc-Kinlcy's South Peak and llu? whole amazingpanorama to the east burst upon u*,

1 1 was almost cloudless fn every direction.

Mount Hayes, sharp and clew, cut the horizon

140 mile- to the east To the snuthffittl lay

the Oiugorh Mountains and the misty gray

haw which we koew must hide f'ook Inlet

and Anchorage, The hu$e while masse* of

the Rahiltno and Muldrow Glaciers wmrndtoward the lowland.-* through a staageririg sea

of jagged peak"*

Most irnpressh'e of all was the deep emerald

green of Ihe lowlands to south and west.

River after river sparkled in Ihe afternoon *un.

twisting off into the distance. As Archih-.o on

Hudson Stuck *aid after hi* firsl ascent of

McKmley >ft year* before, it was like looking

out the very windows of heaven.

A* it grew later. Ihe temperature dropped

rapidly below zero, and Ihegunty wind cut our

faces like a knife. Despite heavy clothing

we began to feci the inlenw burning fold of

yreal altitude.

Panorama of LOOjtMK) Square Mile*

Vet we hated to leave. Each of us knew he

mipht never see ibis niarvelnu* *?cht again, a

cloudless panorama stMtdung nearly -*00

milt's from horixtw to horizon, 1 00,000 square

miles of Alaska visible In a »iug1e sweeping

trlance

!

At f>:SS wr tint a hit of orange Imntinj! in

the tip of the 8-foot bambto survey marker

that still remained on Ihr isumruit 'from our

fU7 trip (page* 2-*r. and :47). Then wehe.idrd downward to our last egloo, *hEveriitjc

uncontrollably from the bitter cold.

|>e?ceiiding next day, even wilh heavy

park*, wa* almost pathetically easy compared

with the rigors of the long and grueling ascent

On the trail we passed the other mem tiers

uf our party in two group*, upward boundIn high spirits. On July 13 and 14 they tint

reached the summit, We went to bed at mid-night In Kahillna Pass, making the entire re-

treat from our hiidlest camp in a sinele day.

Rut our thrills were not quite .ill behind

us. We radioed to Terry Moore that the

vanguard of the party was ready to be flown

out, and lie replied, Will come this evening.

The sun had diop|«xl behind Kahilttsa Pass

when we heard a faint hum It grew louder,

echoing from the riifiV Two minutes later.

Terry wj> taxiing safely toward Ihe tents.

"Gee, that was a tough one' No morelandings tonight!" were his first words as he

ci lordted out. " The camp looked as if It wererhwifng in a bottomless* se-i of ^ray milk. HIt.ikr nnly one man out tonight."

Tt was agreed that f would go on the first

trip. It was a thrilling take off. High cloud*

aflame with sunset covered the siy. Everypeak about us was pink with alpine glow.

Back to the Soft. Fresh Lowland*

T 'CQnghr a final glimj>se of Jims and BilPs

worried (area as we started moving. Wepassed the end of the runway and headeddown Ihe steep, smooth snow ?lope of thr

glacier. Suddenly 1 realize*! we were in the

air. Terry's eve? twinkled iriumphantly. "Wemade it. par«1!" he touted.The mn was slipping In-hind ihr vast

Yukon lowland* to the northwcm a* we B^HDV0C Wonder Like and glided into the IrUle

Kantwhna ulrnidd. never forget the lush

green of that valley, the beauty of the 5-pruces,

and the *mrfl of Rrass and flowers that camein the plane windim* even before we touched

the ground. The whole world down ihere

seemed soft, fresh, and delicious after the

cold, icy desolation of Ihe heights

At daybreak on July t.> Kill and Jim wereflown WueJjf out, and 10 ila>-s later the others

lislkiwed.

McKiuley had been rtimhed from the west,

safely jumI .speedily, in only seven days from

Knhihnn Pass. We had proved that airplanes,

handed or unloaded mold laud and take off

halfway up Ibat side of Ihe peak. >lel

Griffiths had completed hi*, geologic work. Mysurvey was done and checfceil. Not even aminor accident had iKCtirrecl.

Out new route up McKinley's "imprea-nable" western face had turned out In be

even shorter than I liad bope-l it miaht \x:

when 1 harl first *een it on our N'^ttonalGKOGAAPinr photographic flightf IS year* be-

fore- It was proved to be an ideal avenueof approach for future scientific wi>rk slop the

run! K>i North America.

Wildlife of Mount Mckinley Narional Park 2*9

Predators ami Their Vrcy Live Unmolested by Man in Alaska's Arctic Rviugc,

3,U0O Square Miles of Spectacular Wilderness

Jtv AnouMi Ml rie

Bfotogist, NqUbmsJ Park Service

tilth PaUttfags by If'alrrr A. IVvhvr< Nuihmal Gent/raphir hf*iff^ne Staff Jriisl

TX thr creek ahuad wc saw a dark object

I rliiii reached alma-it from shore to short*

JL \\v M"'[rpril l'if .1 1-er.Of look. A grizzly

l>cnr lying h) Btt creek was tbjoyJntf the cl«»|

play of fhr 4ii rrmi on h> skin. A iuti frolicked

ai tht big animal's .side.

' li s probably Nokomis," I siur] a* wescrambled from the rattletrap truck. "She's

thr only gruxly in the arc* will* one cub/'

Walter A. Wither, Nation as. {irocRAiMnr

naturalist and artist, had come to Mount Mc-Kinlcy National Park In paint and study

Alaskan wildlife Imap. paire 222). He espe-

cially wanted tn see grizxlies, Here, on our

second day In the- field, we: had fotmrf one,

und under unusual circu4rutance>. Hears

la thr <|tdte often. Inn men rarely see thetti

doing »• We *et up our camera* lo record

the scene.

Suddenly ihr old Icar, 80 yards away,stood up and eyed u?. 1 thouicht site was

standing up to stretch.

Our cooJidenee vanished when the Eflwly

nervously ''chomped" her jaw* together sev-

eral limes We could see her yellowed teeth.

1'mhnhtv hhr wa> trying tn «ceni us.

A bedlam nf squalls and bark*, erupted he-

hind US. Another grfc*ly c'llb was paring hark

and forth on the hilbtde directly above us.

Unnoticed, it bad been play in c there when wearrived.

Iluiwccn ti (jroccly nnJ llcr (*uh<

My mistake wjia evident. ThL* was mil

Xoknmi* til nil. Our hn thln^c Iwar mu>t lie

Old Knsv. nvulier of two inbs. Now wefound otirerlur* between an Iriur grixxly andher frightened cub—a classic, example of I hewrone place To be.

"I don't like the looks of tha," Walter said,

as the bear dropped onto four feet,

0Tc gndtrbed mir cameras- run! sprinted downthe rood. H ranches snap) «^l and trarklerl I*-

hind iMa* t)M \ii}<\ plowed throueb the brush

Inward her second cub. We jumped into the

t rin k and drove away.Seconds Inter I he gruudy hrnke not own rhf*

higlnriiy. She gait us a sidelong glance andcontinued uphill. traHerl by rub number one.

Stopping at a *ufe rli«liinc(% we watched The

tittle family * reunion.

Wall it later watched Old Rosy through hi-

nm uhir-. find made the sketches lie irinttd.

I hi- painting (pane Zbi i shows her in a li ?>

belligerent mood as she <hepherd* her twocubs across a sweeping plateau.

Color Films Supplement Sketches

To ensure accuracy, artis5-nntura|i-*t Webersupplement* hi* own memory and notes withsketches ;uid motion pkurres he makes on the

spot. Later, at The -Soriwy's headquarters in

Washington, It. <".. |ir project* ih'' color film*

above his easel. Mopping ihrir motion with apush-button arrangement to study a creature

in characlcristir pose (page 270).

Kodnchromc slides of typical p;irk plants

and landscape:* airl him in painting hark-

Kn-M.rnd?. Specimens from hb own collection

or from inu^nv*« rixmd out his oritrinal

source material

.

Walter Wcbcr and 1 arc old friends, and it

Wits my pkM^on rluty to act as guide durirtR

his -u> in Mount NfcKinky N,itvvi:al I 'ark

For a month wt rr.i,mied an unspoiled wilder-

nops, enjoying the same majestic scenery andfar-north environment 1 rial irai]-bla/inK

Charles Sheldon, the hunter-naturalist, ex-

nl' red in :nul at-ain in 3'J07-^«.S It waslar^ly J«t iii^e oi ^lu-hlon 5 obser^itions andafaiuui? ihxit part of the Alaska Range wasset aside in 1917 as a national park.

Today the park covers 3,000 square miles

and is the Nation's second largest national

park . 120 species tS birds and 36 species of

mammals have been identified within it?

boundaries.

CrowniiiK gfekv i* lofty Mount McKinlry.highest fieak In Slortli America. The erioirn-ij

nv>n;och reaches1 in altitude of more than 20,-

000 feet hImiy* >cn le%*el. It alone Mirpav*ev

the park's wildlife as an ttttmctioii for the

^Rwing influx of v^itord.

An excellent Jiij-hway ruii-H thrtHiRb Ihr ref-

ape, providing rculy.aMta t«i wildlife areas.

Hie lariff animals, siich a? sbeep and caribou,

often can be «ren ffom the road.

Altt'r a frw ciavs in the ea^cern section wednive Sft miles westward lo Woiuler Lalo-

near the base of Mount McKinley, and s»-t

up headquarters an a lonely 5-room bungalow.The UttJe frame dweUing had an unhappy

Far tyrmn Civtliz-aiiim'* Thrctin, VImini

Mckinley Nmiainul Pnrk Prvwiuim * 1 u cJi tr Museum

J>a\\ s\ur\> Irifcht) b while IhhlcuX Oil

vmd) Imiwn Ilk* ts* hv.mii, il>. H..,h Mnmuainbighorn ; nt-M) il * h«jnv* arc mure ilendu .mil w (<ir.

^prcmlmg. In the jurk vfUlor* can aoiTKUrorij|i(iruni)i i|ui(r Huftc In lnr»c n ' UJHOJEi <!lt*|t

iv>rtimlaTl> Irrqurni thp nrrrlli *Ulr nt trir

Alaska Rnnct whmru ««w ii imhU r anil iccdinegii«mij> jrr s*i'pt tm/r by tJbc winter wind* ThU• le.;niiir«| rim jwrchr. -ahlv <m 4 rr«o* near Sable

"The willow ptarmigan fU'tV an ji-ctfcc crocue

f'Hind in willnw ihlrkrlfr. tKttat mat* nirtowiTihiui any otlirt lurrl in lh< park Tim n\.\\t tti.ii-

fiiAin&niiU* bJtiwft *tu) while Cw the bxociltrtc

Nmwn, bin rtitiln i>liiirMtir i* «b)tr. If aburoH.ho rackIn loudly Mite an alarm rfiwli running

Muunl MrKmlcy'" bcuven Lbruit butt rorii of*iT*fi aim.4 into the wiuH *m f«n«| wh.s rhafttifc

fi'itsr. Thb 'pi'vimvn #mW* a meal nl uprn hurt

reputation. Btifll [or park personnel, it hadrecently liern .subjected to u series of hume-wrevkisiE: raid* by a hunyry grizzly.

Repairs him<l been made, but hu$c |>aw

marks printed in mushed th-jcolntc. still

formed patterm* on the flour, anil perfect noye>

print* fnowod un window ^Lt55.

Fortunately, ihe be;ir left us undisturbed

during uur stay in the cottage.

Caribou. Nomad* of die Arctic

Early the next momirur wr wt out afoot to

stalk those handsome relatives of Lhc tkmwsti-mli vl reindeer, the cariboo.

&n priori i>f an artfn1?. license, page 25.1

shows iarilf".i 35 Walter actually saw them

—

•llhnucMed a^^iiirit the. dramatic liuckdmp ofMount McKiuley.

I at i (win nre restless, migrator)* animal*The pattern of their wandering ia umcrtMin.

It may Ik the same for a period of ycaxs, then

It may change drastically.

Alaska has several caribou herds. Oneherd .^scmls part of each yrat in the park.

In spring tie animals enter from the west Andnorthwest, usually In relatively Vila II hand? of

100 to 200. After traveling across highglaciers Ui the south side of lhc Alaska Uange.they KOttfS in late July, when they gatherand vl iram westward .m;titi

I have ciiuntrd as many as 4,5(K) in a single

band, a Inrm? part uf the entire park herd.

We found many small, scattered groups i>f

caribou Once we stalked two fine bulls withsweeping angular unllrrn. Both wire adults,

but only one had attained the glutening white

neck, low 'hanging white mane, and the white-

ness spreading u\*er ihr ffcnulders and along

the Oaaks that are characierbtk of the fully

developed fall coaL

The National Geographic M.i^i/inc

Circling downwind, wc uppro.u hevt Ihr *uii-

rnals ii5 thoy gra^d among scattered spruce

Irees, Slowly we set up otsr cameras. Thecaribou's eyesight i* unythins; but keen: onlyaurhlen movement would betray us.

The hulls looked our way a tew times aa

if Misim iou-. Afn-r ;i white they lay downi ontrnlrdly Thrn, Inr ma apparrnt icvtHM.

both jumped to their feet and daahed off.

Fly Tormentor* Sp#itJ a Picture

Our comments were sulphurous. Probably

the animals had been set upon hy nose botflies

fir Warble flies "I hr Latter deposit eggs an the

legs and flanks of Ihr Cftrihou. After hatching.

I he larvae pcm'trait: the and by the follow-

ing spring have burrowed thmuah to the back,

where they emcrpe as fnt imib? The frnibs

drop tn the ground, where they chanae Into

tormenting flies.

It was now late August. Hfll and tundra

blazed with brilliant shades of rrimscin, yel-

low, and gold, Against Ihi* vivid bnxkgrutrnrj

the lirrrllv male caribou seemed the epitome

<if wilderness, splendor.

Some sparred with their unllrrs, tuning upfor serious fights biter in :iutiimn when Often

adult male would attempt to round up and de-

fend against all rivals n doxen or more cows.

Caribou are The chief .source of food for the

hi* tmilntr wolf * ITnfnrUinuirly, we failed

lo s^rht one of these powerful predators, but

I did point out tr river-bluff burrow where I

had observed wolves often. Lounging by the

den, | told Walter the siury of its tenants.

1 had discovered the wr>lve&r hideaway one

May morning whEle following telltale padmarks in light snow, Two adults ran fromdie entrance when I approached. Crawling

inside, f found six dumpy, blunt-nosed pup-pies, their eye* .still closed. I wrupiwd oneof them in my p.irka and carried ic home.The little captive, a female, grew rapidly

on canned milk. She became a friendly pel,

beloved by my wife and 5-year -old daughterGnil, Because of the wolfs eoorf-naiured

lafl waving, Gall named her Wags.

Waive* Call on die Family Per

Wags was kept on a chain outside our cabin,where she received visits day and night fromneighborhood wolves. Their boldness made us

tearful for Gail's .safety, but despite misgiv-

ing* we kept our pet (or a year, Finally westave her to the mniter* at park headquarters.

From a near-by rideetop T watched the wolffamily from which I had abducted Wagts andmade daily notes on their habits*

M had always been though 1 th.i1 a dm of

wolves consisted only of parents- and yonng.

•See 'Taniuitt CtUinU lis Cariliau," Nahos.uGU'cft^nitr Mwujvr, August, 7952.

To my surprise, I discoverer] that in addition

to Wags'? mother ami fnther there were twooilier adult males and a femalr living at the

dm. Three years of observation indfoiled

[hut these additional wolves were not you nit

of the previuu* year, as might be assumed.

All Ihr adults were friendly with one an*

other and amiable toward the pups. Beforeleaving for a night horn the wolves o(tCB

engaged in ceremonious tail wagging arid

^milder rubbing; occasionally they enjoyed

a playful romp. Several times the unflHa-.iud

fem:de sat with the puppies while their motherjoined ihe nighl hunt.

Undoubtedly the animal* had porrw quarrels,

but 1 observe! a side of their nature that

has not entered into wolf tradition.

On one occasion, sn inr in my rideetop hide-

away. I watched rlir five wolves, Mage a memo-rable Ivdtlr royal with a big male gru*ly.

The bear gat a strong whiff of cotIItoU meat,

cached by the wolves in a thicket, and headed

straight fnr the rite.

Grizzly Nfcel* Hi* Musters

Too Inte he realized hb mhtake. Tile rwick,

which had been resting under cover, dashedout tn attack. The griatjcly tamer! and ran,

bul he was scam overtaken and uncircied.

The wolves ^la^hcd ut his flanks. As he

turned on one tormentor, another rushed in,

The nimble attackers eaaly avoided hi* lunges,

The battle lasted 10 minutes, but its out-

come was never in dmabu The overmatchedbear retreated slowly. Eventually the wolves

permitted htm to lumber off.

Walter look noU» us I described ihr u|is*U\

Later he retunsinri led at in a wonderful]

v

real in ir painting ipaae 25$),

The lynx Is a perfect rjiample of an animalwhose fete closely det>ends on a prey species

(page JftJ). When the srowshw rabbit babundant, the lynt |>ros|icr5. Periintlralfy

(

howeAfr, Ibo rabbits die in large numbers,hrpriwd of their rmiin food source, the big

cols become enfeebled and ihrindle in mrmbcrimtil rabbits a^ain become plentiful.

Foxes. toohaTe .sonietimes aifextnl by popu-

lation cycle*, llioueh to a less decree than the

lynx. >lekfidey Park's red foxes maintain

IhcmpeKrv in b-mk| numbos (page 2SS).\Mien their staple f«h;td sucb as squirrels, rah-

bits, mice, and ptarmkran is. scarce, manyfoses sur\Tivr by feeding more intensively otl

crowberries and bluelierriey,

Omilholo)|5>**i visiting the furk invariably

inquire about two of fts moH elusive n*strJenLs,

the wuiiilerifii; tattler ami llw avrfbird (paqes264 and 2o5).

In 1921 a downy young surfbird was dis-

covered in the Fortymile River country, in

(Tnct otntiuutd tm fM& 269)

Caribou Seem ihc Wind far Danger m They Crnw a rtiJgc Ktncaih Mount McKinley

Artist Writer A. Wrbcr nimpuyd 10 luiiiiiiii;* lo llluhirnu* the midlife lit uhrH.rvni in Mnuirt McKinle-y NatifHtni

Pari- A nutarc Slonr'- CurllHiu hull LuiU 4 yuung titulr (cctilrrf 4ml Irnwlr. ftKith win grow anllera.

A Gulden Efttflc Sink* DufrUrrlikc Tiilnn* ink. a FtfvorJic Pr«>, Hie IKmry Nfumiui

Giuuu J M{uimrU jlr aoulher staple of tiw V^tUlvn Eaatf^l <liM Tlir Houim Marrairt, alpine cnuUn >4 Lkf Wmulr*inrk, Hvw above tbaberhnc. T*hi* unwary wia bauuhl at the cnlnua ©I hii rock dca.

FaiiicrV Return from lb* Hunt Brings Mnthcr Fox nnd Hungry Pups trum Their I>cn

Fii«h fwcomr fairly tam# id ihr park *nnarar, Sorot will MM lake Jwd trum vbJti>rV hand*. The male. csrryine,i l.rou q. I Njuirrct. U an ilnAan Hrd F**t like hU t»Mc. lib Wade aut J* a color pbaw.

Racing fur Safi-i>, ,5 T»Uii Vole Etudes It* Arch Roomy, ihc I limit (Iwl, by Irahcv

U^y-flyine ll»wk Owl* Mih-H lately u[hjd lluztc Valet* ur add msec, whose mroc stem* Jcom assccuiUan sviih

•U. Tnklat Kivvr arca. A dwad Mrrii tiultk dtiim Jurvr-trd h> Ihp mitt for »inUJf food.

A GyrfudcciTi < Hutches iht (tody n' Hock Piurtnlrfan, Struck iu Mid-air

(ijrfulrwi* ur thi- f>|n* fit hm i| i»|r huwU mwt prtrnf by Ufrown These powerful bird* m'QOp like clivr bomfxtien thrir vstim*. Th* Ra*V Fwtuigati 1* w^llir ihjin thv willow punnieun (pate J56I.

\\ imvltrrinjj Tutllfcrv Disturbed near Their Nwi, Chirp u I.«ud nnd Excited Protest

Tallin-- utc known to nest un gravi'l b.itv but only Iwo ul lUcit protectively tolured era have ever been

-•lr.i Tiw-Tid lioth find* wnr in Mouril NUKifiliv Nuttonid J'ifcfk. A IrttMru Plover >lah«U "n the l&fthef *h{»t*.

Hcnvml Duds bciidv AlmJu * Savant River.

A T'lunip Suribirxl [jlnurc* the Cuurt*hip A lit tc * i".»F SiiillU %»*:iiilil>f ir*. the \\ liemrears

Witt spirail ftiniti anil flulUtluu tUclit, malt* TSh^Jinur* vua * tan ah* (kit), StirfMrd* live by the %cii nmwtu-f thr yiar, IjuI rear tbeir youny in Alaaka* mourvuin. piily m>r nt-^i mIUi rgga ha& been Sound. Yrllow lirruarul blur alpiuc furiurt in* -mil giuw Jmiunir these rocks near Pulu hmmr Piia*

Keen Eye* Search lor Hunger a* Mntl Sheep Ram* Ow* n H«eky UilNtJo

OKI nml r-1 generally bccfi lei throirtlvci sn jiaiU flodhx \luruu: =uxnnicx. Thc> arc ami Her than Rock)' Mountain bl?-

h«nu. Diirk rldflr* anwrije lh« Wn wrinkles mark annual irtnwlh cycld.

Wildlife of Mount MiKiriUy National I'ark 269

another r*art of Ala^k-v Kut ii was mil until

May 2S r1926. that the first ami only surfbird

nest known to s Unce was found within the

McKinlcy pjrk area by Ge^rce, .A I. Wright,lie and Joseph S r Dixon were walking across

a rocky ridj»e when a nesting surfliird explodedInto the air from henealh \V right's feet.

This sudden hursttng^nlo-rtighi serves to

startle mountain sheep and thus keep* the

nests from ln-inn trampled.

\V<- luiiiiv now that The surfbird raises its

E.ijnil v ;n the high country atwive lliuberlinr

in Alaska's interior. Tt winters along rocky

Pacific coast beaches as far south as Chile.

Pir« Wnndcrinrt Tattler Xe*ls

On July I, 1923, my brother Glaus and T

werr driving n testn of hemes on a gravel barof Alaska's Savage River- Suddenly a wan-drnnK tattler burst into the air just aheadof U5, Near a wheel rut we found it* tie*!.

In IW I discovered a second nesl. Thryare still the only one* recorded, allhouuh the

bird itself is common enough in the Alaska

Ron^e. Il winters along the T'acsffc mast of

the United States, in the Hawaiian Minds,and in faraway Xew Zealand,

In nit* llw powerful golden eagle, with iis

wing.-pread of more than seven feet. Ss one01 Nature's most splendid creations

( page254). Some years ago the p*rk ea«le5 weresuspected of preriau widely upon ibe lamitt

of mountain sheep. s*i I l ironed detective.

Visiting many ch'fiside nests. I eathered pel-

let* of undigested bones, feathers, and fur.

which the eauJr regurgitates after a meal.Kx^ininatinn of the pellets revealed that morethan 90 percent of the bird's diet consists ofground squirrels and hoary marmots. A fewkimta are undoubtedly l.tkm but the effeit

on the sheep population is insignificant, I washappy to report.

The bird thai perhaps best typifies theNorth b the wllow ptarmigan, an arctic rep-resentative of the grouse family (pases 250.

We met many of these bints prospectingfor gravel alnnjj the rourl. Tim' provedtame and confiding, clucking softly cryingcomf-rrt, crWHrr, that' frequently

wewem able t0 herd them toward our cameras*

Pcanoi^ini iJruw tor rtic Senwn

Also present in the park are two other ptar-

migan swefes, the rock (pace 2cil) and thewhite-tailed. Tlie rock nriirrrdgarfs call is kmand guttural, somewhat like the croak of nbullfrog. The whiter.ailed, tamest of ihethree, utters a high-pitched scream, not atall in keeping with H? personalty.

All three species change dress with the sea-sons, matching winter * snow with white out-

fit*, dojininu hroivn-iind-gray plumage in

spring; whep the snow melts. In hue summera-nri fall they display snowy urwlrTparls amibrownish feathering, above, as in the color

plate cm page 256.

While camping in a spruce woods we ttudtied the activities of a whisome little field

mouse, the Toklut vole, named for Alaska'sToklaE River.

Like the squirrel, which stores nuts for the

future, the Toklwt vole is a provident crea-

ture. Each summer it harvest* haj to lent

upon during winter. Great care h taken lo

keep the hay dry.

Near our cabin we found many miniature

haystacks, usually piled rieiween the baaa!

branches erf dwarf rrees or bushr* md on ex-

posed rout-, of spruce*.

Some of the vole 4 hurrous haw an injaen-

Hiii* construction, a series of small chamber?connected by narrow passages. *» that a bur-

row resembles a pearl necklace. Connectingpassages ate so narrow that the vole can just

?que«r through. A pursuing enemy, such as

tbo weasel would have 1*i stop ami enlarge

each poAsase.

Scanning the spruce t"t»*. we distuvered

several luiwk owls, heaurfful northern birds

tJut do much bunting in dayliKhL The paint-

ing of lite owl *woopmft on the Tokiut vole

reproducer -i seme 1 witnessed (page 2o01.From a hUlCop we saw alni « piKeon hawk

break up an aerial dogfight between a goshawkand Ekwne ravens (page 266). The srrappvlittle pigeon hawk, highly hianeuvwoJLrie.

chascil has laruer cipponenl all over the skyand finally drove hirn from the anra.

We Stalk u Herd ol Hum*

Soon mii|-S*?pieri»ber was ujmn us. and there

was time for «nly one more camera hunt. Wewt out for the hfcdi, I'taggy rida« in >ear< h

of l>all shiTp (opposite and pa^e 2S0).TlurSe mountain shcrp ure anion^ the lunii-

rH.irnf.sl animnlf of the Mount McKudey re-

gion. In summer they apjiear lo be purewhite. Against the snow a slight yellirwish

llnpe is apparent. The rams have graceful,

ntrvtns horns, deenrativrty wrinkled A *ooii-

^ii^vl male will stand about 39 inches at thr

Anildeffl &cd wriKh npfiroximately 200pound!*-

l-'or UO miles the park highway pas«wIhrouifh sheep rawre. In ^ptirE. Iambs maybe SOfcuj frlskms; thr cliff- and Jnl«»-v

deveiopinc their less, already stmne u Hay ortwo after Ijirlh.

Rattling ahum the highway in our truck, v,c

sighted 20 ram? in the cliffs high above us.

A dry river lied promised an appm;u:h. Afootwe heean a slow. laborLOU5 climb.

The park sheep, though they possess excep-

270 TttC National Geographic Ma^a/inc

1 1 itilr .til.till ll.lr. UIIImIabI.

Ai'ir»r Wchcr faW'k* Printer'* Proof* of I In Paintings lor Colur Accuracy

Th* National Li*«>trnMihic ilttbl-hiMuoilist Fwks diwn u tunucliilu' motion picture ptojct'tur nhovr his

iirovirw Uoiol A fuck ul the 3*itdi tlelO *top» the pkttlt* an »nv frame hr want* ta study. Hen1ht- rvvirw*

llJjirtP o| the iroTiim <tijcle iufiI far Hi^ltkc rtfetovee whtlu painuii? ihf porttnit More him* At ii^iit Wcbcrl*nl*ln i |nhi!i'r% miFiij |mihj1 ai Uie picture aiipcolnv on |in*r 254 ol UU> k^ur,

timvdfy Ice-en eyesight, can often he stalked in

I to? Open. They seem to feel al ri* >o loni!

n5 they k*cp you in view. Disappear for a

momrrnl and Hie animals .ire likely In bolt.

Climbing slowly, wc carefully remained ill

sight of tlit? rants ul all times.

As we nvaretl our ri&MOp «oal, ihe sun-

light, which bail been brillUnt. bqum to growdun. Soon the cnlire rid^r was bathed in a

curious, wan half-jjUiw.

Tu add to Our woes, a siray ram jumper!

fnwn behind it rock and 5 rit mingled the herd.

The animal* vanished over a rise to reappear

on a diatom crag.

"Wlwr tlafHwneJ |i» the Mfht?"

"We spend lour Injurs reacbirn: these sheep."

AY idler grumhlnl. "We finally tfri here.

Thru no luck and DO linht. I never saw such

u queer (by. The sun ts nut. but what hap-

pened 10 the light?"

Returning disconsolately tn camp, we soonlearned the answer. Fur our sheep hnnr wchad picked, of all days, the tvne on wlifYh anS-Z-fH'recm ecSEpsc of iJ>tf mio occurred.

But luck, anil lite sun, favored us a fewdays later. We maneuvered To within -10

yards of another bund of rams and spent sev-

eral hour* photographing 1 hem.It was Walter's last dity in the park. As

ut clambered down the muontuin&i !•I no-

ticed Now his gew lingered on ihe ma^nifirrni

sweep nf liorixon, thr dark, tumbled ridj^?. tUr

Jagged crags, and the aloof, snowy Jioud of

riiMatti Mount McRinley..He seemed to be etching llie .«crnr in his

nirinnry. I knew what he wa^ thinking.

Here, thanks to man 5 foresight, fa a truewHrirrnir&, x splendid refuge wJurv: Cod'ilesser creatures can follow Ihclr natural des-

tinies in a special area of human good will.

May it never change.

Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jungles 2:1

Tracing Lost [nrliun Civilizations, an Archculogist nnd His Wife

Narrowly Ksi.ipc Disaster on the Jslhinu*' Wild North Coast

By Matiuew W. Stxri,(NO

With HJustralians by Natiotui GtQJjr&fkk Pluitatfrttphtrr RuharJ ff. Situ-art

T "TT TESTWYRr* fui IJO mites from the

\/\/ U'isy wnrEd crossroads of the Panamaf V ( in 1J ' Stfiicls one of the IIWHl Iso-

lated ami inaccessible coastal stretches of the

Western Hemisphere.This aliTKwI-foritultrii ri-uioii, where primi-

tive way.? of life still survive, is fhc jungle-

rruittrd north shine uf Panama which lairs

the Caribbean Sea between the Canal Zone

and the Lagurui tie (hiriqui (map, patfe 275).

\ll U'iu rtiiiiU sweep the coast, ridging the

-t ;i with hu«r rullrrs lh.it hen! againM the

shore in a booming surf . There are no harbors

and few anchorage*, even for small irrafi. Thi-

rough mountains of the isthmus, clocked with

tropical forest and drenched by waking: rate

man of the year, cat{end denm to the wjuTim wild hind Is sparsely peopled m the

Interior by Indian* in direct bloodline from

the iiburiuitic* at pre-Columbian times, and

alone the sencoast mostly by Negroes, manyof whose ancestor* probably weir r* api-d

•laves. These inhabitant* MM virtually tin

contact with the outside world

A few mtuJI launches period [rally visit the

const 1n pkk uji carries of bananas': mil -

marked and difficult jungle truJI> iwbt acm&the mountains.

Yet it was m this area I hat (*olomhu&, on

his fourth voyage to Che N'cw World m 1502-

03 first femnd in any flptauiity ihr gold he

nought. Here he established the rim Sfianish

colony on America"? mainland, at the monthof the Rio Belrn. Along ihts coast., too, lie

encountered the greatest rltHVuhio with storm

and surl of entire career.

In the Footsteps of Columbus

On a gray January dawn my wife Marinafind I arrived uhT this Lnhnspibihlr shore at

the mouth of the km Code del Norte on oneof the semimoutJih banana hoapi.

We had come, under the joint uuspk-rg of

the National Geojcraphic Society and the

Smithsonian Institution, not to seek gold but

to hunt for putt cry, arrowheads, stone axes,

inH.u'Ht crave-*, and other remain* of the

Indians who lived here during ami before c Jir

lime of Columbus. We hoped to team froma study of such relics a tatter understanding

of the rise of prehistoric Indian civilization*

in the Sew World.

All utulu long on the Voyage from Colon,in the Canal Zone, our Hule craft hail pitchedand loftfed in heavy swells, fully living up to

her name, Tumtwiia. the Little Tosser. Aswr ro-r ^tifify from fitful deep on the harddeck, we could net while hrruken; underliningthe base of lonely urren-cbd mountains.

l'!\pb«ii!r% HiiiL' Shunned rhe Area

Ever bhirv the time of Columbus explorershave stunned thi* forbidding Und. For ten-turies it has defeated ihsi^ who 50ii*bl the

H"ld reported in Columbus's accounts,We wrrc to fate far greater difficulties ami

danger* here than on any of cur previousexpeditions to study the nrcheiihn-y and pre-

history of AIM lie Amrricn,*

TO* fltst vMt to the CocM del Norte wasa MtitttirtR trip for EutiT r\-pforntS«ut, for webad been unnblr etsewbrre to find reliable In*

formation abmil the interior. Almost nothinghas been published abour this area since theaccounts of Colunil>U5

T

s voyage 450 years agu,

A* the wind whipped the *rjves andTumftaUu lalftored in the heavy sea a mileoffshore, we were remindwl a( a passage writ-

teti by the preai e^'jlorer pt this very coast:

, .The iUftttk reionimrnced, and wearieduk' to such a decree that T abwlLitely knewip-T ivhat t.i do . , . never was the sea m hljch,

so tcrrifir., and «m k owed with foam: not unlydid the wind oppose our pBOCeediFip onward,but if als»» rendered it highly danfferous to

run in for any headland, and kept me In thatseq which seemed to me as a sea of blood,seething like a cauldron on a mighty fire...All lhi* linwt the waters front he*vrn neverceased descendiiiK, not to say that it rained,tor it like a repetition 6f the delMRr. . ."fThough we did not reahlze it tJuu, riie-e

word- were strangely prophetic of what wasto happen |o uf.

Accounts iif Columbus's! voyage tell thatthe Spaniards found the Indians wrarinu \fok\ornaments In the shape of disks, frogA, ami

• Tor tiifiy uf prc\dcnn anirli^ »t\ rruanhrs lhPanaEku antt Mmk« by [>r SUrliuu, who N t>irocr«ri i thi- IVjrcjii ivf ArnrricAn EthntVliijry, SnuthaonjanEnsomnnri, He ihr rwrv vnlyme C»Jh'tih(ivc tiulr* tothe National (jCtWRAenw Mm-kiiux.

t Proni Srblt Uttfrt vt Ckriitfypktr GmMmuahUiHH \>y K H Major. pctiH»h«l by the KjlUuvi^H ir'T. London, U47, page 179.

Solemn Brown Fucvn Rcflucr the Wonder (if Music from rhp Air

Nn*ie uf Urn > ounciIn5 had hrawJ * rw1i« ty&lfP* '"M^ h"? mrit* »W'ir-«4Utk Tbr man with the

pipe -vi-jie J the effptwUnft't tamp on the ujjfjrr Rio In<llo i« a*fc if be might bring lib femily to cafL kfmthry had i*v*r *crU people Iflcr tile StlrlJnpj, Gw%l* amt to the luncril ever juiirit! "mil* iir*uiU: «isikiic*s

nr.d hrnvy ram

t ;iu)»- Tluy pi-rsuudcd a chief to lend guides

far .1 trip tn the mines.

The wily Indian* t£tnil«Ml the whiir mmfar into Ut tnleriur to Ihe roots of hawhuge trees where they said the jinld was

found, a place actually in thr territory uf an

rtriemy of thr thief. The eager Spnninnis.

without having tu um tools, ^fathered it biml-

f til of ftuld cm:h. Our? U inclined t»» sitip&l

that the Indians had sdlril the Incalhy wilh

gold to satisfy the Spaniards.

Columbus'* settlement at Belrn was short-

lived. RcMluiyr agnin«i the white men 5 HI?

treatment, the Indians killttl many of them

and threatened to exterminate the rc>t- Short

1 if foixl and pounded to exhaustion by the

Mgty Columbus abandoned the H-lllenietit.

(iuM -till tuuiLiJ iij 5-Fiull quantities hi

this rejpori. particularly in the Concepcinn,

Belen, and (."ode dH N'nrle Kivers. NkifVMjwin for it with shallow wooden trays, a* ihc

j|»»rn«ine-s ditl A hard day's work produces

about three dn]iarV worth*

Lcrfcnd* of "*Loi,r Mines'1 PcrniM

The large quantity of ggkj tbr Spaniard*

found was the accumulation of many years

of lalnu rather than the output of rich mines

of deposits Nevertheless, legends of fabu-

lously rich lM mines" ^ruM persist.

#3Where is R-uU IJik*- HWk* iltt Kiier, Naiivcs 1 1 iul t p a Dufmil by Main Sirvngili

10 unload fauna »nd tbiri ihflii la rrtrfrt watrr ithnw- (lutir J**) Pejibay* pailim ilvln prixluc* iruil

whkb lu» lipirn 4i NLikpU (chiiI for Lndian* sedcc prp-Culumhlnci day*. Nrar tliti p<.i4m m-mimm* oi I in

L'ltmmi niiil DivHle lurm Hit- IuiUhhu- nl shit iMihrnis u! l'.ui:mij_

\Ytnc of W*lay'fl naiivo could connrive thai

wfe were looking 'or unytMn« kit gold In ape

^ense wr. were, as a guide m arehe-iloKtcal

silts. Indians of the inlerior -nil orcitstonally

fuid gold ornaments mudr by stedgffves.

Usually such finds indicate the sites of nmterit

town*, and several limes aboriginal jewelry

guided us to important dicniflgs.

From Tumtiaita's deck we watcher] a dug-

out cmioe and U< -training paddlcr*. stripped

to t wuLst, labor toward us through the surf

with .i Inad rd baJiattWE. After the ponderous

hunihr* of fruit wen* transferred, we started

for shore In ihr dugoiii. the 5-ntan rre.w val*

iarrUy butt ling the waves. Suddenly, a* wa

rode the trt*t of one lame niller, the puddleslost control, we lurried broadside, and the

cojnber broke over the canoe, deluging us all.

Thi* Ihr 1 1 r t ol ihree tune* lhat w?e w-ere

to arrive at Code del Norte Hoafclng well

Unrc ashore, we suiiishl out \ idal <.ioo/;ile>,

store rfcrk and arting mayor of ihi« village

of Code del Norte, for advice on nc-tfftiatrru!

the river intn the interior Several Indians

in the store told as of places along the river

and in (he jungle where broken potsherds aJid

stone ittrs indicated aboriginal «cttlcmeti1jfc.

k^turatng lu the banana boa! waiting off-

thnre we were drriKhrd hrtOB, first by a

breaking wave and then by a pounding rain-

2UAn < liiiln>nrd-dri\ en OiijJ.uiit Pltal die S*vollcn Uoi lodio

Mariiw Sliihmr. «rrl*r«*li»iei^ Hrli * , .ouJ Hp ShjtW Csnt, rifcyscran,

tmllisl ji &rnvily foikii canuc Two dflyi g| h»rd rail! made 3t pn**ihle to

jniTfwl iV': •h.ifltiw iliruin lu El Unn illii (map «|?riosttr)- Tburr ihn

Stirlbirs I maul 4nJwiludcil rfriirt Jfid f>f. G«tr rahJwiwl 1 nirrfiral

dink foe ths* |uiiuilivt Iodine villagers * jimn lt<y t.'£it.

MAG-mNt, and DfL Roll-

ert R.iih|>. now in* the

University of MLsfrU-iipp],

my nrchcological a^Uinnt-

We had Come to Panamato trace the ebb and flow

uf ancient Indian cultures

between the- two prtai

enters of American In-

dian civilization, culmi-nating in the Aztec and-Maya realms of Mexicoami Centra] America andthe Inca Kmpirc in South

America.

Culture* Pruduie

Chr'ooiiin Era

In each of three areas,

*ever«l centuries before

the Christian Era, h'ujh

rn hurts developed, based

«m .-tatrkulmre. weaving,

and p-Oterj making, with

metallurgy added later.

Archcxjlopistsan? trylnyr to

determine how these cul-

ture* were related. VTirre

(lu! the* arts originate, and

in winch direction did

ideas flow?

In many ways the civi-

lizniinns nf Mexico and

Peru were similar, indicat-

ing A common origin in

prehistory. Fur example,

they both robed cum,hr\iri*., and sqiiii'-b and

mndr niMiiochmme rail-

lery female fijrurines syrn-

boli/JtiE fertility.

They lx^lTi made fami-

liar pottery jars wlih stir-

rup-5.hiiper| spouts, the

water flowing out through

two channels I oat can-

verge inti* otic Dther-i

are so fashioned that air

roaJsR* a whb-Uinjc sound

as it cri ter> to replace the

outpouring water. Earth

mound* for religious

structures Hre common l«»

squall. Soon all the paswnacrs were cum*pletely seasick. Once more we lay on thr deck

in wet iJothr.s and managed to sleep most of

the nushl cm the return trip to f'ulnii.

I'rom there we drove lack to our head-

ijuartcrs near Salud. IS mile? wist of the

Canal Zone, where we had Ijckud dii^inrn; (it

the sitc> of several ancient houses.

Here We rejoined Riduid H. Stewart, staff

photographer of the National Geographic

both cultures, mid each

used similar forms of Mone carvings.

Recent archwh^ical discover!** Indicate

thai the cradle of American Indian civilian

tion was in northwestern South America, not

in the Valley of Mexico US formerly IkHevccL

The art of tneUlworking is much older In

South America; agriculture, too, may have

been Hirst practiced in I 'era*.

The Incas and tfwir predecessors exceed in

metaiworkirtg, ceramics, and government ; the

Maya of Central Americawere ;k'Ned in architec

tun*. mathematics, andstmic sculpture. Ideaswere constantly Ixirrnwrd

and exchanged. ObviouslyIhese exchange* musthave pured iJif'Ugh ihe

Isthmus of Panama; it

wa* l<ii"ical In siNirch here

for evidence* of them.Dm mil previous (Hps

we had «turjjrd (he arrhe-oh-L'y i if J'.in,imj > Pacific

coast, und now, during

this third sciiHKi in 1 951,

we hoped to explore thelii Ife-known north coast

and complete an arche-

nlngintl cross section of

ihe i-tnTnn*. As in previ-

'jus years, our old friend

Dr. Alejandro Mritatrg,

direct itt of the Piinaimi

National Museum, as-

sisted us.

tlaefc «f tioynnd

Now we were ready tocrl foiili iiii.i ihe iVI.iled

country alone ihe RioIiultn :ind ihe Itin Codedd None. No rest lire of

a marl extends westwardbeyond the RJa Salud-

We decided to tackle

the India first. Since its

mouth win only a I wobaurV walk ftl&ffg thebeach beside the vurf, weorLMnueil wlut iv e Joking-

ly called a ^surfuii'9of 18

carriers, who ttTinsporn-d

our boxes and bundles,

Dr. Shirley (ia#c, a va-

cstitnifflig wmnn phy?t*

cian from Xew YorkSlate, joined us for a trip

up the lnrfiii- She haddone several year* of

medical work En Chinaand wished to study a re-

gion which modern nserli-

NtCARACUAC.ari-hhff.a-Ti. Seu.

COSTAfen W*R|CA.

—

Pacific. Ofte.cj.Tt

M A COLOMBIA

^PwwiTSi/id deAruero

JowTonre#

Parfofre'o*

drewAifjjj ifliu^f Acre. NA*th eaopl rf$io>rr

ffay txptored ii ofir of mast holctid inWeifrrr. h'rmxphfr* SU mf/Ofrom 6ui^ strafeyic ftwffma Ca/wf,

Colo

Cristaiul

Be/en s..,r^i.»'1,1 Wr.

PJjijiijJ

Jj... , ( ltil

*i f i tfl drifts

CANAL '

, ZONE toft_ )%v»-f

i 1

"I

,1.1 L jirrr'. i.'?-=

Chamr 4

^'•Ga/afcr

U|4

u Crtiifi) drJ'txrUiL

.Ocu

ParfM

CmVre

PwnCo t^w>k

I

-Mr- Cjc/os

• fiifl r^alO <icjl/i> de- Panama

Twfay tfw Crana/ ftmnir/t t^iroujjA Uthrrwt

of Jb/Kjma tt*r OstKm-bvrfM trad* of thtwevfd A thcuutnd yrsrx ago 1h i'j narrcw

Ainrf bridge was a me/trny pot of Mrfmncu/ft,TCf from A'ortft ffrtd Sewf/i Awrrku.^rrrcursa^t <>f 'd^Ki/Di/i /ncd dfirf A J fee

JvifijdCJo/ri coatt fadiQnt 'eJ

3-atfaxt (odhcavtry Of the Pacific Ocecn

2"5 rn.vn tt TW»»a.lHB»

ScicoEiiiK Probe Panucoa TA'ilds Shunned Since ColumbusThe iDsmrair fausij uoM inUind ftom Ute Curilvrxr-n In 1505. At Ihc

mouth uf ihc Ri<j Ui-Jcn be set up ifir New WorlrJV urtt n-iiinUnd Sruinnti

colony. Up |be iwilgliliitrinp; mc-n CncIA del N'*n If. fnd-n. nnrj Kalml.

NaUuM Gwn;rn|vhk-SrimliMjjil^ii srJi»Ur» <I4H i'ewi Ulrr traced lAdcDtIndiaa cultures at modern and lonu-buncd v^ilbuc mrs_

cine had mil le.icheiJ.

Apprniichhiji llic inwn id Rio Dsfia fpapes

277, 287), wesiw lhat m'»Si of Ihe men Lhere,

all NcRnKa, were dreswl fnr a fiiwia. Thoywnre lull cunital hats decnrateil with iTuwers

and bright-cidnreil leathers. They hail iiabicd

their [aces red. while, fcrr bhii\ nnd Inlkra

backwards or in a sirnngc pf.iherfah (hut sard

the opposite of what they recant. TlTe celr-

hraticui Is known as the "Congos7' or ''Congo/*

perhaps in reference (c Uieir African ancestry.

\<i HH-ncr hm\ we arrived tiian it seemedI lib unfriendly land was taking revenge uponns f«r darhii? it» probe Ui» lim^-hidcieji MrcietjL

Tfmt lime of year, Jiinuar>' to April, was sup-

posed lo be the dry season; yel il rained mtnrrenu almost coiiftaiitly The rjiu was so

fri-fjiieni that nflim wo were not dry for two

ar three days and nifihts in a row.

We sltjieged over iniidily iraiJs and madeshort excursions by canoe to aicheological

276 The National Geographic Magazine

sitea, «[ueslie using the natives as to possible

new locations. An old man. who several years

3ga had (avail a gold frog awl a yn|d "pencil"

(probably a rod worn as jus earring 1 while

clearing his field, led us fo the place, high

on a i i ur.

Fragments of broken pottery werr strewn

about, where they Itad lain undisturbed sitite

before the days of Columbus, We unearthed

a massive floor 10 by JO feet, made ni IS

ilahs of :i hard green bund.tliint* carefully

fitted as a tnosak'., each about 10 huhes thick

arw] 5 feet wide. Probably It was all that re-

mained of an aboriginal temple. Around the

flour we uncovered quantities of pottery, stone

axes, and fragments of stones for grinding

corn. As in all the sites we had found, the

pottery was tin[win ted and underoraietl.

PfletJ Foisherib Locale Doors

Potsherds were a *ure due lo ancltnt housesites. Locations were easy 10 spot, beinc theonly level places in otherwise hilly terrain.

We could even place the door of n house; it

was where the pflc of discarded broken pots

was largest,

Escavatinsr archeological specimens calls for

painstaking care, both tn prevent breakage anil

tti record their exact location. Scale diagramsare made of each trench. On these each speci-

men Is entered, showing at n glance its relation

ta other objects found nbove and below it.

Collecting thousands of fragments of broken

potsherds may rot sound exciting, but the

archeologisl depends largely on pottery types

to distinguish various cultures and to establish

their chronological order. In the .virar wayone might trace tfab development of fife in

various countries by successive types of light-

ing fixtures used; first, pine-knot twrhes, thencandlesticks, oil lamps. gaslights, and finally

Hectric bulbs. Pottery, because it is more or

less imperishable, survives where many other

artifacts disappear.

Apart from helping to solve prehistoric

problems, much Panamanian pottery, particu-

larly that of the Pacific slope, is beautifully

designed and decorated It make* easier and|>prc-i iatioii uf the Indian civilization that so

impressed the Spaniard- of the early loih een-

tun,*. Many of the bowls with tall pedestal

buses would make decorative additions lo anyroom even today. They are embellished with

Grange conventionalized designs ri^presenting

birds, insects, animal?, and reptiles.

\\V next set out for the rough' country of

the upper KEo Indlo in a targe canoe pushed

by our own outboard rrwifnr (pages 274, tfff\Abtsut a mUe -allow the to- mi 1 h the stream

narrowed; here and there the tirjpfe of giant

trees touched overhead. Many fallen trunks

lay in the stream, and our guide worried lest

our propeller fou? on barely submerged log-.

Rounding a bend, we came upon two In-

dians fishing from a canoe with bows andiiitiiws, she latter lined with three branching

points. Bow-a nd-arrow fishing requires skill,

fur refraction of light by the water distorts

the poskkrn of the nsh, and the arrows pene-

trate only about a foot below the surface.

The fishermen agreed to pilot us through

the maxe of logs We took their canoe in tow.

wli&e one of them stood in the bow of our

craft and indicated the course by arm signal 7-

For six hours we wove its and out among the

lugs, the river becoming more and more shal-

low, finally our guides told us we could go

no farther by water.

It was raining hard. We pitched camp in

the mud ulop a .sleep, slippery clay bankabout 4.0 feet above the river. It was still

mining in the morning when the owner of a

near-by house came to inquire whether hernighl bring his family to our camp."They have never seen people like you," he

lolcT us <page 27J).

Hft volunteered to guide us to a "house of

sandstone" back in the jungle. Sloshing over

ill-marked trails, w came to a fantastically

eroded ravine. It ended in a natural cave

cutting through 11 sandstone formal inn for

nlHirjt ill) y.irds, like a large tunnel. A cluster

of |>nts hung fmrn the roof. This was the

"tasa de laja" which, according to lairs wehad heard on the coast, was the Towered ruin

of a masonry castle!

Our guide lerl as fo n near-by place wherehis uncle had found a gold alligator. Every-where- potsherd* were scattered, evidence of a

large population in the days before Columbus.We excavated until the rain became a deluge.

Rr\cr Ki-so K b'tcl (hcrnighl

.Ml the second night the downpour con-

tinued. Morning revealed a river risen eight

feet, an angry torrent of yellow water.

Since the water was now more than deepEnough for the outboard motor, wr moved unupstream to the village of EH Uracillo. on the

first large fork of the Initio. Here ancientIndians had terraced slopes to support, their

village. The modern inhabitants, takingjsdvaniagr .-I t he.v ready-made house ^itr-s,

cleared ihr area and built today's village,

the only one in this ptH of the interior.

A new <choolhouse was under corLsiructiim,

with n renten I floor and eurruguteiJ-iror* roof.

We received permission to occupy it. Whilethe rain thundered down on the roof, wespread our hknib'is and clothing t-> dry.We ftwn discovered that the entirr village

clearing w;is one In rue archci (logical -ite. Her*ive uuc'arlrii'tl poitery painted in reo\ black,

(Text omtwued i** ftcge 285)

Into the Unknown: the I- xpcdiiiuri

Start* I p I* tinoma's Km InJin

Thb Jink' town, rumrd R;a Indro alter ihe river,

*v»i the >rupitni/ poiiil of u iwo-wvrk trip Ink- luuntrylinlr i^haiu"<( -itie'i' the iUy* of ("oIumIau An itui-

Iwwrd nvoiar proprlJni tbw Z--ioat dugout until rupiiia

fnpjM*! it Hiniwj nUnd «n »t£lt« to ta&ipt Rund*.

I ' " " • 'Oil" • ' llH-l-Ji.l H in ti:

v Canocruen on the Km OilIl del Norlir

NVaJ«4l Often as They Rixie

Shooting a rapid nn Ihir wuy downstjciun. one heavycanoe iiruck A >nay tirul overturned. Carnerm amilefts** unk in ihf bottom <ii the channel. Rwum and

jukracs bobbr-d on tiie current. Pft«*n?er«, drenched

and I'xhaupli'd. lnircU reached salcty on a iandl»jir.

•-r m

1

1 J 278

4 ArchcubirfiM* Tnulinjl Prehistory

Gamp in tbc Jrrnidlc ul l^nmi

On one of ibc "dry" ^tion1

* mw sunny day* DrSlirMrttf main nnlrs i>n hU i!im nverir*. anil Mr* Slit line

cooks dinner. To ivoid flwdinjt* Ibiy ke*|i houtf well

ntwve rivrt level Flap* rrprwnt the National Cpn-(tarihLc Society and S«?ortv ot Womnn Grofffatjlier*.

+ Kvpniritift l*4»t% Broken 500 Ycur* Aftn

Tukirt Patience and a Delicate Tnueh

in camp ul \tnjar,i. \l.niu:i S-tirlin^ ermftnl* <*f*a»k*

duK up by the expedition's workmen,tk«> ail! pjvr

rhies to byconc atltum The uuasine with a Ihrlkiw

licuif wonhl|wit a* the jumiar icod. All ffaynwnt*

air numbered and lntwtal Ihr iLlv Lhtv Arc loond.

2i (f mMvbb in MiUtnul U»**iyijriiB llirfijUiiJu* JHiia*it K. »n«»ai-t

Fxpcdiiion Nkinlier* Tunc I Kucky Trail ta x Mnunlainlup Uurea) Ground of the Aticu-tiN

SiiBL'un Canir, lnuil Umlimnrr, (ruiiji*> srtlnrotopblD to a the mar EI Union. Ccntc u ihe iurthiat horseman Hffcwutt uucartiivil U1I tvliflitritil vjmv witb tnmril ilL-^icn*. n Ijpp not prn'inmly nuieU in Parwnta.

Revealed o Prehistoric Burial of an Ancestral Tomb

Indians ol PMflAinft'i lOtitH CO«t untDmbcd tadr dead Dp Slifcfcp G«ge (nutn) trealrd native Ui« at El

In dwp chwwhijrft, D», Stirfln* surveys A *it« luuml Uracfllo. Sh«r scored u prulr»jiirutl itiumph h_v (nilline

by Alrjandxo l.opca (sitlltiB). An umaimr Tcheotogirt, n toath far the Jealous hu1 {lain nuJicd mcilicinr munMrs. Stirling §wk> thade liam tic loa-dcgnv hrut. I

1 bareheaded si ccnlrr nvrhl). A ur*r [WH Clvtft >

Brush Inn have ck-ur^rj lh* Ut\t[ l«r crop* held IchkI arid ilrltih for Ihr duail nun's spirit

A l-inecrn in Br. .ml Ttailighi? Dr. Strrfinji CurWtf* Ii tu Light Cuvc Tnnibn in tliu Cuny-nn

Ihlanl Pimonoroi stands In a vatby u'hirli Ihr Iri*!jim* mailc u populqijiin center Ionic before Spaniards arrU'fil,

The mwii'rn town dates ii tbc diji i>£ the Oionui-ilaiinr*.

5£

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If It's ihff P1inriisjrfiphcr> IlirrKdny.

I lc Can Ciul in the Picture

Silinlia* ftmt frirmlt i.vlrlirnlc with Brrhafi FT.

Slmrart flt?£l>. National UcuirxiipLk laruernmiui. ourI-J PinluiU. Hr Sins au amjMninl the aurtiur on II

expedition* to Mexico Ami ["irxam.t- M» Betty liintx,

u I rami nf ilii' Stirling*, taiinthn u lislloon

V Zipping Shur ihc Mo*qui«i NotIn lW*iitiinc Ritual in die- .lunula

In Mtalilbhrd mnips ihc cxpediiiun mtrubn* *b |ti

on canvas colt with ait Rtailrnruet, hut nn iiinzle trip*

Iht-y carried array tmnimorki. Koaih ol ho* In mon-key* arul chirp* nt btfCtft and Iruea punrtualtil Mr*Stirtinit's ninht m this *ror* on the Rio Cnacaj&J.

Hunting Prehistory in Panama Jun^Us 2S5

and purple, with designs- thai clearly showedconnections with the rich cultures that once

existed across the muunlam divide. li con-

i rosted sharply with unpointed, simpler pot-

(erv we liad found nrarer the coast.

Polished stone axes and arrowheads in

abundance resembled the coastal types, but a.vtrwiu; blending with the culture* on the Pa-

cific crta#t also was evident.

The ancient tribes living on the Pin ifu slope

WrIV C|lli| i* advanced .lint knew, lor install e,

the art of K"l'l platinK b-ase metal*. Theymanofariiirrd lieaiitihd rwIjThrorne pottery,

>;irvi i! hanrisorrv- » -rn imenl- «.i whale ivnry,

stone, and bone, and mounted emeralds andsefnipredoas Mimes In gold settings. Theirlavish use of gold led ta their early destruction

by rhe Spaniards.

(^Jiiipcriliijii for the \b-dii_inc- Man

Fir. (tnpee set up a medirul dime in the

scfcoolhouse. Suspicious at Qrstrthe native*

finally bepan bringing theft children fur treat-

ment. The women followed, and at hist camethe inen. unne from a day's journey away.Intestinal worms and aching teeih wrre lite

most common compliant? plus eoiter, yaws,iiud infirmities uf old ape-

The load medicine man, who clmrpes for

his niauii and herb remedies, w;is jednu* andsuspicious of this free service by an outsider.

Dr. Gage's final triumph came, however, whenthis local "medico" aI>o promted himself for

treatment for an ulcerated tnoth.

When we hail ;:« cpiirerj as large an archeo-hi»\\ al i-ollecUnn a* we coatd carry, we cammeddownriver and retraced our hike along the

const In the Rio Salud. The next day wereai hed ('ohm, bad* farewrll In Dr, Gage, anrl

loaded our equipment aboard TnmhaitQ fat the

trip ro rite Porte del Xorte.

Heavy sens at first forced iw back, but the

next flay wr arrived off rmr destination. Dickand Marion roI safely ashore with the first

canoe-load of bajcpafre, but Bab Rand* and 1

were not so lucky Crossing the fiar in ihcheavy surf on the second trip, ihe tanoe twice

veered sideways and heavy combers brokeover us. half swamping the craft.

We hired a native, DntninKO Sanuina, tn

Eiiide U5 and started upriver in (wo large

canoes rented from Vidnl Gonzales, the store-

keeper. The larger craft, fitted with an out-

board motor and aimed the 'Queen Mary."liMik toe other in tow. To help with nurditnciTic. we hired three ol Vidaf* men, Ku*e-biu, Santiago, and Marcilio. About nrxm wecncnuntCTrd the fir^t rapids and rouhl nolonger tow the second canoe.

From this jwunl onward wr spent ntnre timeout of the canoes than Jo them, | w dtnu?. push-ing, and lowlne them through one HTM9 of

rapids after anoiher (paues 277. Theriver was a succession of rapids ajid deepstretches. In the latter we used the outboard,and in the former we- used main stteninh.

Fig-earing Fi*h

Many huee wild fat trees grow alontf rftt

rivrrbanks. When a ^ust of wind came,meen fiys almost the wxt of tennis balls fell

into the water. Immediately tbc surface wMchurned by the rush of larjje fish. Domingotold us they were tarpon, which fairly swarmin the river during the sexton thr tree* arehearing. The natives use wild figs as bait.

I was naive riunitih t" throw out u |jlun

.it onr of thest' snots. \ fish took il almost im-mediately Although the hrake was on, theline scrtMimnl "ii the reel. Almost before I

knew what had liap|»rnttl, nil I had left wastin empty reel and a bh'<trred thumb.

That afternoon we reached ('ajioa, a rfniilt*

thaidied hou<e where lived an old womanwho reputedly knew of a prehistoric burialplace. She ted us up the riverbank to a ter-

race. After poking aLnmt in the jangle few

half an hour, she halted and announced thatWe stood or the ejuci place,

"Hip <iie did not liHik promising, m we ;c4crd

for more details. Thirty years ago, it cameout, -he and her family had lived in :i houseon this spot Al nhrhl *he heard noise* urwter

the "round that sounded like the e linking of

roins. GhoTSla of ancient inhabitants burialthere wre obviously counting their cold!We disked why they had not dug it up them-

^elw. She replied thm they werr ifnod.'ITiis was hut one of many - i* h wihbpooir

chases wc experienced in our searches.Hidden in the jungle near C.-iiio.i, up the

&rrWD San Antonio. wt« citroe upon remainsof old Spanish pn1d wnrkinfES. Tunnets (fag

(irolntbly by Indian nlavefi were ^tLU visible.

Tbouich lore since callarrsed. A few large mill-

jtonts lay coverwl \iith underzromh.

\lcnt irtriii llic J unit Ie

Our fluid* shot tsaine for u*. flnr favorite

was "painted rabbit," or paat. Thic larperodent, wei^hini^ about 20 pounds, has a deli-cious ilnvor re^nihling rtork. Kven tou^htapir steak* lM>came pabtable when treatedwith tender!zer and conkn I 5wiss>st>de.

Wr also shot an rjccasjiiiial rleer or cutassow,

the latter n bird rahited to the wild turkey.

1 dually we were able tn purrhaer rice andIwnffhfl^ front tlte natn1^ and now and thensome quzs and chickens Palm nuts wereabundant and palatable. Our only Importedfoodstuffs were dehydrated soups, a little

canned fruit, rhee*e and simflir luxury items.

Wr explore! the Rln nwrlecito to the headof canoe navigation, which was take-off point

Tht National Geographic Maga/ine

for a tiifncntt two 4nys' trail across the moun-tain* id Li Plnioda him! Frnonomc. settlements

we reached Liter Ly another approach, Threesmall native children were si afraid of us they

hid at first. We gave their mother wait hard

qtniy, which ihey triad to swallow whole.

The rhnkitu* Willi h re.Mitlnl iliil mil increase

0W popularity.

A^eudimr ihe Cascajal, we found ii mi full

Of rapid? thai our two targe awoes could nut

he fully Inarled. Wr therefore hired two ad-

ditional small traft manned by Fndkin.i who-eIron! irelh were chipped to sharp paints. Theydo this by plants onr stone behind The tooth

and poundim; with another , Tht practice

probably originated in Africa These Indian*

ihink it not only adds to their goncj liwks but

also helps preserve thrir irrlh [opposite).

Waterfall*, rapid?, and [>Men trees often

blocked our progress (pate 27 Vi Kvenlualhihc stream opened into n deep, ralni lake, andwe made earnp. dry fur once, nn a hilltop.

From here we could see the Cerrn Iguana

(Hill of the Tuuimut. about 2,000 Feet fciyh.

which mark? the t "mil menial Divide In

four days' work we obtained a eood collection

of pottery nraamtnls and stonework.

It bepan rairuig the afternoon nl th- final

•lay am! poured all ninht. We «oi up al 5 i.m.

and broke crorip in Ihc dark and the deluge.

At fl hniifie a lit tie distance dnmom'am wep?' ti l I '-if

r ni!tl*Mn! jihI i »H* r r\lr,i equip-

ment Itfft there on Ihe upstream pull.

IV help rnrry our collect (up* wr hired a

-mat] famy manned by two Indian Fkivs amiInoded it with picks and shovels, food, andarrheolctgienl materials in rubber «acks,

Guidcng it downriver, the boys had a fine

lurk, fohing- as they went One srvrimeii

they caught must liave weighed 10 pound-.U> did not see how they "ot through the

rapids in their leaky, overloaded canoe, whichhad only nliout an inch of freeboard.

With (he worst obsiartes- behind ns arid

our an;heoIojriral work accomplished, it wantime to relax and enjoy the trip downstreamHad we known what lay ahead, we would not

have been hi carefree!

Trouble in the Rapid*

Early In the afternoon wr tame to the last

had rapid. Here I he river forks past an island.

The riirhi branch is shallow, anil the mainbodv of water follow* the Feft channel. Thewater drops iiIm mt 10 feel in a distance of

150 feet at the .n*ex of the rapid, where it

makes a right-anjsle turn..

Srwtnre'y En th*" annle of ihr turn protruded

the skeleton of a larue tree. The nttmlier twocanoe, needing lea water thnn the hist one.

tunk ihe right channel the swift eurrenl madehauling it through shoal water fairly easy.

DoniinKu elnteil Co lake the "Queen Mary"down die left-hand, deeper channel.

As we fame In the- aiitfle, Ihe forte of thewaier was ^renter than JJomln^o expected., but

by thnuUtnp auiiinst one nf the limbs of the

fallen tree he bareh prevented ihe bow fromswrroinc under it.

Suddenly disaster smirk \n eddy caught

the canoe and swuriK it like a cracking whipUM-'nst ihe tree, K use! do anrl Hick wen >wepi

off by a limb, and the stern was forced tinder.

The men managed in h,ui« «>Mto the limb,

which was over ihc rxvifo^t|wt i.f (he rapid,

but ihr craft filled and overturned.

Marion, In a raincuat and ld|c «im hat. pwam< nit into iheiurreni- A poor swimmer, I cluni^

ifoperaiely to ihe f>niom of the canoe, I

could not hold my prip. but the current wasso swift that, by the lime I slipiped off. thecanoe ami F had been carried down lo a sand-bar in midstream where the water was nhl>

waist-deep. Marion found tnnriug aloou^ide

me, clutching Bob's suitcase anrl typewriterli'iNe*. ba^s^ard cartons were tioaliug down-

stream all over the place. Eusehio and l>»i-

raaneo managed to be icli the canoe on a -!i d-

low l)ar. Bob. Marcilio, anil Santiago hauledi heir ian»e ashore and haMily l^an gather-

Inn in the no,Oin[j njtophirnt. Domingo andKuvf*bio worked an empty canue along the

bank tind pickvil up Dick, .Marion, am] tne.

t l;iuicrii\ Sink tri ihc ftottnni

Our outboard motor, badly 'honaged, wouldnot ^tnrt. Dick* small movie camera tWo?lfll cameras and extra lense*. .ind a heav\nwivie camera had disappeared. We urgerl Ihe

men to hunt for then*, but they were pretty

well exhausted and Celt the effort would!k» futile.

I )nly Santiago curried out ibe search pr^b-

mi! and diving in the de*|w-r cbannet. Alter

half an hour he found one itv< ivie ejowra 200yards below the point where Ihe canoe went<>vcr In anoibrf )u\i hour he located the

still cameras and lenses

>iiHTiaL>" aL-it found Iwo of our most impnr-

Eani sack* of archei»lotfiral materia], therebysalvaaiiu! many of the seientific results of thr

upriver trip. Keerylhini!. of enurse. wa_* kit

irrulol. even the ihinfn in tied rubber sacks,

rarlmis fell apan. and our food, except for

rajincil ^immN, was mined.We tinally reloaded the canoes and drifted

downstream. paijsin.L' fnr a supper of wet

chetse and crackers. The rain Mnjtprd before

dark and there was a halfmoon The lower

river was calm and beautiful in ihe pair !i^hr

We reached ("Vie del Norre Iwfnre midnight, the third IbHQ we had arrived there,

anrl she third ibnr we had arrived saiklng wet*In the morning wr hung up our equipment

to dry ami *prea'l our

ibi il r-l i« « iL - nn Ihe pras>.

fikfiiriniiatdy aJJ the film

in the cameras was ruined.

Early thai rnnrnin^ weheard I he vund of airmtiir iivrr head and wire

surprwd In *ee a heli-

copter corning down to

land. The pilot prm-cd Co

he Cap l. Hal T Ihidytfn;

of the T. S. Air Force*

pirsj Ki — vir Squadron al

France Air Force Base in

the ("anal Zone.

Captain Ba*harn hadcome 16 Investigate ahuman skull ami bonesfound in the in Itrior byrubber hunter*, whothought tbey mieiu be the

remains ivl an Americanpilol loM during WorldWar II. A reward had

Iwtn posted for inforrrm-

li-Mk ab»«nt his fa(c.

After examining theskull, I wa.« able to iden-

tify it sis that of a mid-

dle>a$cd nartvc wotruit.

Since Dickw amuousIn wire Washington, I).

C. fur new carrier;^ .wl

to air-mall the cxpohrd

film not spoiled in die

river, Giptfttn Ba-shamflew him U* the iuse.

Next m*«naun Tumhntlnarrived from Helen, and

her captain kindly agreed

\w lake us back to {"olon

again. Theft were moretitan 100 bunches of ba-

ity

Ttvth Qitptwd lo point* An? a Mark uf Male Beauty

Afi ImUan «'nrkrn:in mt|ilu)<fU by lac cxpcdkttun in the jun^ta flf tioith.

ern fanutmi itritt-. [inujilly fa a rtitnUv pI bt* k»hh3 1<kiIls. The rflcvl hm liievnl In luiMins a rod* Uriiml rnd» lonth ami i"«i«iHnK with nno«her

Mnlv frnMl in-tli m |iuii.1ul 1 lu n;.iia i unfit a [Jjlm Uul •« i j t

-

u genuinr "Panama"' rut, Iwtiilly mailt

nanas to he ptJ aboard.

iwfi heavy loads (or the bi« JCMooi canoe.

Now, it eeemwf. our troubles were over,

Tlul how wrnnp we wer*!

When lluv raer relumed from Lakins out :he

second load of bananas, I bey said they were

Uteri and would malic only one more trip.

Therefore nil out haiisme. plenly for two trip*,

was pit I aboard \ native pasw-nger and a

crate nf tlvc chickens were arided.

We had misgiving when one of the nwft

told us tliui bucking the mrf was so bant

ihal one trip through it was worse than u full

ilav with pu'k and shovel.

Mrmlozu, the store owner, fortunately de-

cided at the laM minute lo go out with us.

Marioifc and I sat on top of the cargo.

Three of the crew were stationed aft and

two forward. Ench hud a Ions, heavy pole lo

u* in trnssinu lite bar and a paddle for ihe

deep water. We did fuirh well at 6r«t, i?oi

dear of the river loonrh, and bucked the

breakers for about 400 yard:?. 'IV canoe rode

deep in ihe water and was very dunlin.

Wave* Nearly Swamp (Itiuoc

We had juxl turnerl parallel to the surf lo

reach a *r»rt where the wave* were heavy,

when a bii: lumber hit us, pouring a rliinjfer-

pus amount of water into the du^ouLMrndoxa bellowed, "We're too Inwl

Work!" He took nimmand. shouting orders

In a few secimris another wave struck,

knocked Marion and me nff our scats downinto the open p;uL aft. and wwutal Marion

panly oiTCTbnnrd. In the nick of llnur she

was pullrtl l»ack.

190 The Xarinnal (jcograjjIii-L; Magu/irie

The. dugout was almitet awash. One of the

COM threw down hi* puddle ar.d started hail-

ine frantically, uml I joined him Our bails.

were plastic army helmet liners.

Mcucloxu mm- nioEjiihcenl , not only filyirui

his puddlr hoi shouting orders, keeping ihe

crew working tojwlher and .straining At first

we seemed to make no pniRix'ss in lailintf. Imlat last thr level bejrnii mrtKcaWy It* go down

Finally Jlendoza said, We are moving

ahead again! Keep working!" After wlui

seemed an mtermfiiable time we passed the

last line iif breakers ami reached the bi« rollers

nf the ripen *tcl We were wife. Hut all the

chicken? were drowned.

Linked by Sc» Baptism

As the Iranker In Ttomtftrtn vv.i- r.oiiiplcfrd

awl i he caitnp was about to rcEum to shore,

Mrndor-a said. "You mm I be sure to writr |.n

me. We all belonit 10 the same family now,

as we have been reborn together!"

Hail line more breaker Hi us. we would Itave

lirni swnmped. To swim in the heavy ^nrf

wwId have been impossible. We never should

huve embarked with «ilrh a heavy load, hut

did mil realise how badly ftferioadi'd the canoe

was.

Missing the boat would have meant a two-

week wait until Tumftaita'n rifxl trip, Fur-

thermore, the wind hnrl ltci-n rising all

ninrnini! .unl the. Mirl was heavier thaw on the

Iwn earlier Irip*.

Safely bark in the Canal Zone, we again

spread out our thru*!,* lu dry, thi* time at

\ncon in the yard nf old friend. I'auf andReTiy Bern/ Our water staked watches and

radio hud in Ijc restored In working order.

Tht* archei»loRiral colleriions, afie* drying

nut. went into the Bem/es' Iwsrrocnl for

temporary storaice.

Ncw were ready for the last le^ of our

trip across the mountains fflttfli the unfriendly

land thai had hi ne.irK defeat rd us. There

we hoped In find remains of ancient cultural

mnnection* lierween thai upland region andthe country we li.id just explored on the one

hand, and the belter-known cultures df

Panama's- Piirlfii" lowlands OH the other.

Go-jU M«nc- Out, Explorers Move In

In 1.4 Pintaihi, a pitturmjur villas** north-

west of Penoniimf fpttjtc 281), we rented an

earth-floored, lile-mofcd adobe hull1* from the

li "1 1 < hinese st i >rr I;eepe r, who M ly

drove oul the goats and eat tie living there.

Mari'iu uLiThrml ^\eel->raeIJine urchid> kiiuvvn

li rally a« Senwuia Santa (Bnly Weeki in

euunteract aomewhrii iheir otlur.

In Ihe ncar-hy muutitiiu^ Voliino-rrs fromla Pitiiafli helpefl us liKUIe ca\Tt thlO were

aboriginal tomb*. Some of the?*' were danger-

ously placed on the- facts of hi_^h cliffs, upwhich ihr ImwIu*^ mtfr earrlwl Thi* toeihiHl

of burial b&» oot been previously rrptvrlpil

from Pnn:im:j, nor is it mentioned in early

aconmts.With the memorv of our menl narrow

esc^pei; si ill viviri, I fefi as I climbed up in

thriii sonirwhAJ like the ent wh« h already hail

ln-l t'itflu of lis nine Tivps.

Twn wide expanses of bare rock, one rm lh»"

fide of a high hill and the other in the mlrlifiV

of a $ireani, were awrej wiili ^citiicular andmyMerioiis pf tr. glyphs (page tf&hOld frk'mfci, ihf ( note family of T'enoimme,

led us to a Tomb site near a place called

Kl IJmnn in ihe mountains 4|w«c There

Don Miguel Cortl* had TOWoVrrcd a fim*

inlk'ctiou of ncW-type pottery^ which be pre-

sented to jtn for llie \ \ S. \ational Muwum

Ln*t Find Hichcsi of All

Wo ticxt moverl i*> Mojara, on ihe Penin-

sula de AttJefO, pililiiuu our Fi-ntS tool far

from the town of Oru, Here we found the

richinsl of all Ihr si ley we wnrkcxl that season

in Pitnaioa. tl vlelded u m.ii'niucetil collec-

tion of polychrome pottery rcptCSBptinK a newvatiatil of llie high Code cnltirrc o( the

Pacific slope (pn^e 27&).

One of | he pun in ey of civiluurd tribes in

Middle Amerk^i wa» the hunting of copal, «r

resin incense, in their religion £C«rrmoni(& Acone place in the Mo)ara site we found a c*h hr

n( mote lhan 200 *ipo*ui'shnpc*d mcenw burn-

ers with about 100 little h<Hirxla^-sha|>ed

stand* made for them to rest n{>on after heat-

inn, when the incense was finokinj: properly.

\rvheo|o^iia| material thus far excavnied

in Panama generally rlemnioa rales i relation

with Stiiith Anwrica- <Jold orrwiments m the

f»»rm ol froes. birds, and olher animals and

the iTfccthor] of plating copper with tfold are

^rKuactcrUUc of northwestern South America.

The mrthod of burying rhe dead in dee]i

ckmiUers hoHowerl M ihr ho#c of n vertical

>hafl b aJwi typical of both region?.

Our enijayntions in Tanxinia up to the present

supjxnt Ihe hehef Ihtd the pre-Columliinn fn-

dLua th iliwilions the-rr were mainly developed

from ^oillh Americuii origins.

Nvtirr aj rfian^r of artilrru fur ycitf Nathw*i Otoi^Anrr M>r-«nsr \h»M fv rrrefrni fa l*r pjficrt

af thr Xttlvnat Gto&xpklr fruity 6> rA*" (Frit ol J** m**f4 <*• ffki i** folIwUn w$m*4 ktitti 9*f

fmitancr, it ytiy .'. „•» tk* adtbtu timHtfit ffff yw#i" Otu*hfr mumh,t, Tfa Sntitiy ih+uhl ht nutiped of yrtmr

nrv athirtu nM hurt ttoatt Ssptmrtirr I ffr vurt otim/nJr ^nil^-:uar uxmbrt.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETYSIXTEENTH hHU H STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON ft, D C

fJILHKKTfiKOM ESOB. fmwinUOBLHT V. HJ-MIJIO, TiwnnrHKBJlUtT V IWI K I'r-^nnn

J.VMiW J llHlf il" ;K I hnirmar IC*k»i**i OninMtfcw

HI HI I. KECK. Aneuiui 10 Uin I'mhJmrt

gnus iii.i vi n \-\ v.nncK iv-rHwdwiiTHOMAS W, VlcKSR*V, »WrtfTlw>

VfcfcNON It. HHKttKI IUL Aaawiititl y^^ryrMl lAltf M. I'ATNK. A*iMafH SmruxyKl'HTZ M. ItiN.SON. AWtaiil S«wUri'IIOEIKKT E. UOVLK. AwUUl Nmt-'LmjMAHKI. 1". fYIIIPKHL IVmonu^ CMLc

(iDOROIC C. M.*M>il\L!OffftetaJ flf Ihtt Ancj'

Cuicm K. LtNhr(irwittl, T. S. Air P'ra. n«m.Brwlliw

tfiratrodc Alt CaraeiiuMl

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liF.oRT-KR Frr>*M

Fu.snkun I. FrAHKnIDuHt/nibueu* L-iiuit

VfillrinnJ LaFi-tirriliklr1

BOARD OF TRUSTEESHi>DE&? V. Flkminu

fumlm «imI i tKiiLimu uf Uw boardHim* Kutiiiimi Tl*iii

llriill t, IJBTOlt^Olirctnr. \«ihinul \>ln»rfy

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^t)uih#ni lUdmy Cwmyimy

Jons Outer La Gobcb

CiVijmfJilc MtULUUWKvn *«* S I. V Nil

Vinr ArltniniL < anfrinirtiiin Oiriut * Sn»T t

ftrtintil: i*ftmiilnnl

TBCHUi U\ MrKxnw

OKOANIZKD FOH THK INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OP GEOGRAPHIC KNOWUE^K 1

Nifri?<'TMl i!«iirmpMr MAiiuinr luuntiilv All rrrf<i|tt* on 1 Iih

Mnjumii *m<« in fi*>p ">* ri'-n Mfu-nt<itMi u< iniMlr,

II. itM-riMi! r* i u»i« mUtiiriul ami nhut'icn^TJur 9im'py« wi^•IBHlly Iwllll HUUk. AvMl> hu» »|«UlMi)TT#l nififT Ihntl IWI

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HXKCUT1VE STAFF OF NATIONAL GKOOKAVHIC 3VCAGA21NE

JOHN

MtLllLLH BkLI. <«H04«KB4IH

(uai-bHI< k i;, I'lmpi-M*l.rJi ,\ - llrtiMu

F. lUwiira <'iu.Tiih

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ALU* C. KlWiilL JlLl.ir.s-tnr. J. untvrJirw« T- Mirlltri*, A«1'"tii-w*it.>rv

/*rvrwn WifenJ .4*/ft". Roicn Muiuu, riiw-f

llltWRt.1. il Ml

Ian B IlT*.IIuaua tX U

LBERT GROSVENOR. mi ranOLIVER LA GOttCC, ApWlftfi tOrtP-

Jamu> M. Dudlti

S • 1- !"i B-rr .p. A -I Ii :

CuuitiM K. IlrnacrnuA ill f KlMhliBlJ*

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34K natural ur

AMERICA = N ^ S T %ATcH

tut i tuttonNairn-*l r>>ld I.Ih'tl

ExfwiMiitn luinrl ffcT.MS*

\o <k-Uiil i* urn' in purl nnl In ii llinullon.

TIip Dviiinar rnjiinsprnij: ig nuuir lu Li>*i ,i

litetinif-. Ca*e$ lit esiudy, protect wijihI

dust. The exclusive Klinvar bnCl^pS'lDfl is

aiiti-ningnrlic, ru*tprnof. And all rrilirwl

part- arc .icrurate lo 1 li'.OOOtK of an iin Fi!

Thew nre just soim- <»f rm<*>iis why

Ilamilloii it- l.mums "tlw

Kfttcn of rail nun! aivurary."

i

hIl your |*w#ler— Ii 4^ k»nus; vour IW*1 bnv ie HamiltonMrnflun ibe Nations GaojrapHle— Ii iilvniifiri yMil

GoingAway to School?

Unifc«l Stair* huvr uwil thU fainniio prinlrfl tir>lc (lajMfr.

JVolliiii^ i* nionr nwvminu. ft* quality b rijehl |i:rl*pf wliilo

ra£ rmumt \mw\ papffr). It is ru'dlly |uinlr«t in rirli Wue

inL It is correct in *iwi. color, and wruthi. Aiul Ju pruw is

amazingly |nw. OrdW your* iwvu

flitW in ijnaniitlr* a* llrtrtNk -•iilil-parLipff^ orrlrrs am B |4mli \Tmt-

muni (iriniiuf — ! Itm-*, 30 i-lmi jit c»'i» |h.t line WindInn (mmimitton

im4 *pnrinc Rrmil hiiU unlrr tte*i nf iVmrr, Oluntio, mil in (L&|H*wr»V"iR. 4>)d tfl* Irr iirU-r*, ( Vn |VrH}tn ••f-lriv) \X'n fr*j uV |*mM£C

TU £ AMERICAN STATIONERY C ONI'A YJUO PARK AVENUE. P£RU. INDIANA

duuxe pack ageiti motto kftektsj*h» i0'*>

wiuumatcium; k.nv£uii'E.s.at! in *iniM>r paiirr A rfmtiru-tir *

curi fuu-MwlriiLr fiAiiioarrv.hi'JUfncL

$2°°

TABlll PACKAGEvn STNGLK SKKHTSluuBf t3»wr«

in Sintwlaiif P*rA»»H twt la

ulilvlR, unit 100 ENVELOPES*AJI tit iiiio* w ilIi rwroff nvi wtWrrm

25

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THE FINE 5IAHOKEBV

IN T H r P I A I N BOX

Htnnan the Ftfatlat.nl Qrn^i»phit— h iflintifln >iwi

ViM& JfstiCfront Ffmgti LmdiUNUSUAL, USEFUL DECORATIVE ARTICLES FOR ONLY s2^ EACH

A GIFT FROM ftBflOAD WITH OUR COMPLIMENTS

TO SVEAY M£W MfMBffl

„( ihc rluh-and ihm]

irwnurj tpia art

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How this thrilling new shopping adventure brings you surprise packagesfrom abroad every month* A wonderful gift idea*

i Jin

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ir bis nan of Huiupc,A\m, Almi. Slroili A™*iw#. iSt NeajE*« #nd »T» fxi Exit fnt^tinr foarirtlnimmnw the Imn.lnJi wf unkiml mi*<tn peculiar tu irh funics Ijrul. muiieat itmn h.rui lufcfc. tlirn Klfurne theVp»T h'.»<»'rii in mltivu. btefulriFia, beanr*ml tiliM, and 1 jsing llttrti tent nj ymi,

|imj|mjJ, duly f*rr fur *ml«r if. radii

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'. rpu oh. on dm Sc di«w« Tii<! ill thr aru, uArtuc sea-rice of.

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Jnlfir. Fiirnsn n^tujfli ire la crtrrlrf nwj«f imrnp tlatlan pa wr-putt native m-

MM mm Sun-Jus vaJuri Jn ewtunav.Thus you prt rmff Jpf yoyj rownuy—il the umi turtr yiiu ir 4^.^ ti t

N* anprovr w^tjj raicJitMim bv lend'ulaa lwJpinr hi«ii U ouf OtfjirliWri Jfigndrl*t- *<i/kL

CoaTeriBHvfi Piecce Fran Abraod

Ou/ sfp?«vinjtivn ijiiujj are con-..-ii.. csiihrr.o 'or Ok uczn Ut4the bra^nt tnii|iainj atnliblr. Thfj n.iforiri kwcoJ ifir mal UrtcrnarMtOal Jamin.i ninhmr.nv Snii Lbr^ Uavel iiie bia-h-•#71 aod n| forWan |„od, EO Jfj»_nffcc the on^iuc, alir Jinuiual. ine bxnil-

«"ii.ki •hieli 4Jt fjeacwr id R.canr <grtfr«ru;«a pictta trhendnjdjwd off vaeii 111 Amrn.

vortl ! TImi 1» 11k lliritl .if nomlinahiltfn five itmii.l itu Vwl.t MinpiYtf CluUliafb itutull r»m1) IudL (biwhA to ihe•rrnal 11I jnur lurtifln ilHpinutl tjli*3*ci ajiutiMjion fnh niiwiili vmi'lln^ejirncr iha* <fn*:i.nc iluill sj.iiicl/e>hitr<hutiici *l>ci ruu nprii it m wewliai clrliphifiir uirpriie >i hiliaiajhd-

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rcitittiir you 1 finr tr^ylat muntbW 10-

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Ealre Bnwerd *or J-oin.nq Wo—

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Wlia flp| pijrt raunteiihip riachi

nti*1,vlnlr <an hart .

Il 1owl iiochuia^iii |itln the AnMjnd-rhv*"K ,a\A Shofeien »J.Ua>. Vhett isr an «eni-bciUiip frrt in jJujci. YtfU pef uhJ| tntlb* fe^ular liiuttlhli h-leoift«i of inn.ilmnJiK ad iui ui ii*c Ivlliimine. pljtif

up fieri 1

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ipd art tlte broofir at tJw frallf nnuik.alJe taliiri tui* jwiJjW*' You ana i

want in ntlil a ttttfle aii tomror

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tlm *a mupiin hrl>r«t tit »tIu, tnrlin-nniiiFiiiifO t\n the i!ieethenj|jp Mfin

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4 «*n-fit M{A IfDTCWrMllVt ih pmiil'i

II Htnff.! fVtit.!. <-ih r

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Tcm Con CflffCDJ fit Arty rime

You ttui cat: .fl ypH iTi^brnhqi n

Ailuw inj nnnimjiiftl r* mij Iim^im ul.him i avraE iHr unujeit pon^nti >jj ^a7Ujpa/iWrrt tie ivttuttirjl -n lu(L Evtn«Ua, if fiw in nor lir^bccd tLpun

Ol Iff 4 UEMfCA&Hff TOJ0M£OtY£ JPfQJir

WI10 tmiW on be 1 Mort iiwrf-

ikia 1 JlUfnl^rrftUip in rhc ArAu^ci-.

vivuU -tiufint rtur w*flh to«t)y Iftc*

rirfn pFo-Jw=ii aw fwJi K.oq nr)iifi Actu/icAn <fi^JUi«> Month thrrmonrh rfw^ A^r dul'vrrrd m tdhe re-l rj icqr frirni sbrujil to «rrr# f i rfl/i*

AROUND -TH( -WORLDSHOPPERS CLUB

D*pt. m , 34 Tract rioct. H**nrkM J.

v. Lt«L

A Thritlinq iMfprJw Each W cn f P

Wrth mill pastier will ianv ihr T«vfui*iirti; Mur> ui the origin aruf lenjfi.(irHtr »if itu* mil it pnB rrvciv-f— iJdutajlamaur **:h ilifprnctnr

Think 0! ihe lun re<r.-t.r..: *udi

etorwr "aurpuie C*acka#:ea" tntinth bymnmnl II 11 like liMpc-inc atijuod the

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Ax*wr*Mha-Werld Jhoppat. Cub. Dpc»' IM Ir-nr Plnr» Mf* Ft 2, J.

Pints* Mmlf «m at 1 Kleate^v m«t mr my nut «TUTTll «R niTt iraa a I

Funiim (UHiiirr Mart rvyuLLf ta*iinMv »M|w«U <d tin «>|i-eiu«i H r fwna"B«rrniii.IJ(r. 1.1 Itr .niiH»frt Oltcl wm flwtit -iiuiirlrt Miiln tnil In riiMlfllW ItliriHir.U Lit- frlliintn* urtn ut ti< t in. .Uj.

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eaeaeeaa ea. IWIrruutv rMaaUa-Wiihiri41-h T-,.1 K«, ft .„„ z. H. 1 ea aae eai eaa JNfufilUm the Natiaaal OeARrapbic— Il i^rnill'ai you

Miounrtf

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MwHsH.iftficI''*'* lCiilpiuraJ nunlcrpLccc. the |Uu|t.ct

Mjilonnn. hflk retained us da^ic bciuiiy iJiruutift

UYnlurifa. In Bunc. VctitiihiI. Voti ll find rpuny Uir&3

d&iXiidnnU of failed wulpiom ai>tl cnu*Lnncn, nl-

inttied la Barrc bwauwc l«Cct,UDil here aJ^m\ i+ found

the perfect f*c*lrufii Tor trtrir ugc-orj ikil!*— Setter,

Bjric Uremic. rm»i ^u3u»inn memorml *Mnc of nil

!

Kiui*n u iho liirncJ Bakri Omiii,

ihl* comjTiuuiiy ot muter -cralliimen

ro^iftpty crane beautiful nionumermwcumincjTspiitw ycrar dorir one* for all

lift*. \Vri« for lha Ircc tnxiUct.'Mri'O-

ammt /rfw»" «Uii*inE ii» ick*ri

your dirtily monumcril. AJJtrss: lUnfif

MOCEftN 0fSION.*,7ULLT GUARANTEED

Every fhtffc Graime monument corns* It* IIamee

t\\'iva nnJ a *mtcn «iirvranl«. I*! Ilitf rUwllJ

Gl'iui oVater near you enpluin ilic many mi>Jfn <3c-

KnWtfhUtfft a**lltffie tn r>rry jnier tante Hrll

MonumentsJ^Jj

U I LIJj "Mnrfi of the fflnjrfrra"

I drink 3II ihe coffee

I wanf...

I get all the sleep

I need i

"

DONTSTOP DRINKING COFFEE...

JUST STOP DRINKING CAFPEIN ?

11 /am LoJrinkiiLI ihciidkiixa toffee you pkuK.W any tiiriL*, and iteep* You tan. if jou don't

drink rufftin. Nir il's tlic cultun en uidinar-vullec

thai jangle* ncive* and keep* fo|ki awake. Anduseless CJifei n uddi rial rung la entice' 1 goodness!

Do m millions of wine voffee (over* do. Frnjov

•AiiTiJcrlul <otfc< tfMii uondcrful skxp Mill ^cwt itm-Hjch.Sanka Coffee. 11\ 91% calTcin-frw . .

.

fjnes van all the ttthSpfaggwfimp of tine caifee,

yd ton> Urrtatc your nc/vc*, Trv ill

ClllOOUi <N HTHtH

INS-TAN7 0«RlrClJLAII FOHM

NEW EXTRA-RICH

Sank* coffeeIf's Miciaut! ft'i 977c caffVn-free!

If 'cH you steep f

Mention N«tLmul flecfraphje— 3« JdftttliKn |f0*

FITTED WITH CRAHf'S FOR ALL C 0* RE5F0M D ENCE NEEDS AND JOCIAt 0<C«SIONS

Writing a \t'i[€T . . r n>"|H')itliji_; lu nn nivilniioii , . . m.jkini; KBcnril your

llmtitu . . . InJding puwb tu your limine uwJ huanc— all arc <!ouc Willi cue ami gravis wilh Crane**.

For with Cranr*9 >»u have the cum rt rwijrfir . . * tho smart piper . . . ilur paprr uf dMi«rii<iri

for ewry rood and occasion. Your staUotitr will jaJaJiy Lh*Iji ynti fit nut y»«ur i|e$fc *iih Crane's

Flm* I'apfrs rogruvrrj or <hc»?fianipnl |o yinir ru>jr mnE rlr-un%

I INK I'SPKRS • UAhKJK IULTOS. 4HSUC1II 5HT5 •

Mention ilia National (j-csJRTaptsjc— It idtrufce* jvu

SINCE mm

TRAVEL- QUIZ(FOR AUGUST

)

I

Wfiere is a plant worshipped as a gad?

O f-irW/rlMnro

n«* HiMim pilunt i» f-»> viMi>liip[^l »i> Iwliii.

Wr*rn hi ImJU, f»r anywhrn* r\arry Iriwl

IttflnA)! safrly 4iid nonviaurally in Finn

National Iknk of Qtii*p» Tnrirfciv Qfaelk*.

Vitur •cpruilurp m nil ihr iiSr-iilnViithiii v'»u

nrniL Onl> yuu cun omIi tVm,

What is the world's busiest canal?

TCtr Sftt lanluallii tw> tan*)*) i*;irrVt> riw»n>

trnllu* rlmii rfu'oll.rr Iwn jml h-is-flnT. Wln*lli*r

v<w"rr nil ihr S<m» nr (Iw Surr., rarrj tniw!

riiiiiLc*^ i'i»iiv(*iifriiih. -jiMt in Hr-t Nnu'iriial

RlhL of l

N

.hirii(.in Truvririr Oun*J>- Atrrprnl

i-\ i i i nlir-ir l>"i .«vi-f lU^r-nrs. f'mrrrpl Trfuml if

loot uf -lulrll.

Where will you And "The Granite City"?

Q itaJy SroJfnnrl Turkrr

Ii- rffaminjt hmliliniz «tnr»r javw Irii* nnmn iu

AWnWn. Sn itunrl In Mlf city *h*wv*r ynu

trawl, Kir-I National KmL nf (UilnifQi Trav-

ituU.m- -.I SIO. ITUI, 9 1IN). AiL for them

dT. your Sank.

First National Bank

of Chicago

Travelers Checks

For Ali Hunnet* ur

i'aratiun TWrfef

wm»cn »tpr«*. B^»n»-t uo»»aMTin*

FALL is the right season

to get a LAWNWao now »o ktHiuiiPy your hom» <rii*i Scofl

luwn pffallkl 5W'l 119M hy rvualng "Lawn

C«ra\ Ttr« eprrrrt h»u» •ploim «fcf 5uw-

fM*r't MrOBittdd ie.ll, ccal tiigHts ntiH gvnlU fall

*aln* fll¥U ftfOM a qfiek, hvalHif *»ofl —dvirp ivoH «aU rhkl '<•> 1. lurf. Far parti

fa*.- . in** i«ad for lew* Corm. No obligo-

*wn' «N*I Orcp e card 'o . . ,

O M ScJtt a SONS CO23 Powrlh 51, MaryivUlr, Ohio ' tt

oho fete A/ro. CaNfM / 1- '

Q

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5"

3

are

on their feet all

day wear. ..

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U fOu *nnt alt '

.. ..1 COCttfon, and

[on* wen. write

coda* fc»f fr" »trl*

bot>Uci mil nnrnr of

b ueri h» CoODully £eorr.

COHNOtlV WOE COMrANT. «aL-*TUI II HINUUBT4

Moarlon thr National Oei^raphic— h »dunifini

lets look atit /

SOUTHERNRAILWAY SYSTEM

There's so much lo sec wlira you uIouk at the record"

of the bouthlnnd's progress and growth !

Look in one direction — and srr nrw hidtinlrieft of all

sixes hp 1 1 sort*-* wilJi new industrial construction hitlinjf

tilt all-Urne jieak.

Look in another direction — and see A diversified,

modern agriculture, with Lirm income quadrupled mthe |>a=t decade*

Look anyuhere in llie South today— and see people

with unprecedented new fmvinp power, with expanding

consumer markets for products miJ service* of oil kind?.

"Low* ALfad — Lot'f. South"

tf»itlna ilw NjtianU Ocopcaphjc— It idcnufiir* you

Business men

jolted by amazing

device which reveals

hidden threat!FREE DAN&CRater*' talk In 30 mcondi If

lho rncordt ysu need* la nay In builn*siarv DcltfoMy saf-c agalnit fire,

HiMl'l putMi 111!*. Il% diiaCill'uU--

Gd iwirAtr 'Tiff I>AN«.K1W/' I liul

wur i "DANflKR^wrg" iiiWfSx^h,IT* rnihV lii u*r- AmiiJfclr. VullirMiln

IUhr«l Hit r*|HMH-l|IT Mill |1ioiin.iim(ii (1

fifttt. fkti/CI in rvrp Mtmifu'jmt liwanl

I'mUtr. ('litre ymi a rrluihlr antvrcr. Sriid

lur vimr "tJANtiLlto/r* -. ' ttiiW. Turimr-fniv injt lit- ft*» /rtl/\

r

Mosler Saleis*! nti^i a r<rtk isti . Vtw t-.tt i.\ i tw,> i

NHfUU

-*>»•

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trfiftthikM tfiu iuir Idtiil 4* tunny

hit r 41 bt»*l_U1 lli* *!—rr mnptr nC

Alt If |<-U *ii|i»mat , Ilt.i>njr>|

t r#>it

and L.Ur*— lialiar* I Lai qjit'trii

llw |niUr juit ku lirjr tJit*Fii,

limit i«i iftijov |i* j«ui turiir*

furiltiil* Rreurf*. •|«trti. llwatrf.,

Ihr ipnonfi ttf i Fait ta»nun in

llit? Kiui'iald Url

And tV|iU J ftff

ishidirlul hiM-i

T0««I5T INFORMATION BUREAU3d law 54* *!»•**. H«~ rti 3?, M,T,

U!.priQct» runlituid by f^t" I'll rv 11m NnhMQt fewm PubLo.lv

C' j.irWiri'W for fcifcto»d

One copy cqf Teffi another

NCB TRAVELERS CHECKSart loft and spendable fof any kind ol o

rourn«v

Ifl ilwg wc^rrlnf atiau! ihr k>ti of ttisli f«l tttoirim^r*

fundi. You b«' * M '»Km4 I' your Nn'tonoi CifyBrink I>v*«r*n Clintkianr 'AVO' i»oJen Seimdohiceverywhere lor aiiyininfi Cxt%* *ic a^r J 100 GoodudHSiaorl 9itv at vcur brui»

Tfr# E'-" •l-iM-o rvu know wlt«mtr y-tra go

NATIONAL CITY BANKTRAVELERS CHECKS

fcjiiiffi 1

1

f Tli* No^wiai Lilt Brn* ttf Npw v:* -

Mambw 'vdvnol Da&friir |i^t«M<ieio* CvrpcoHort

Mtf'itian ihr NatLotul Geuir»t«hic— tl liT«rttfici you

Dunng August, chil tempting fruit pLtte will

be feamrcJ on all Union Pacific trains. Tlie

finest of fruits Jre ohtiincd fresh from Vet-

era orchards, their natural ilavor retained by

being placed in dining<ar refrigerators jusr

before train departure time.

And speakim: uf freshness . . . you, too, will

feel "fresh is a daisy" after a cool. restfuJ

ride on Union Pacifk * smtKith roadbed. Ask

to be routed by Union Pocifit through the

We*l Fine foods. ..fine service,, .fine irjms

UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD

DAILY

,r Clt¥ OF LOS AHCfLES"Iff - r

1

n \ A*rr jej- Im At*«m»il

"ClfY OF SAH FH AN CISCO**

"CITY OF PORTLAND"

"CITY OF DEM VCtt"i*Ra^«*fi C^^tofl* 0*«r»r|

"CITT OF it. LOUI*"

4fa A*fw**n LWefljp irnrf Pat/fit toad

los ANo.Eb.ti LiMrnoSAN rRHNCISCD OVIKtJlND

and GOLD COAST

PROUDLY INTRODUCES

THE SUMMICRON

THE MOST ACCURATE CAMERA LENS EVER DESIGNED n color and black and white

Horn is a Irtity revuluEinnary advance in earners

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thai gives ptctuies ccrner-io-cornur sharpnessnuwir boliHii attainable

Use the Stinimtcrttn on your Lfl'ca intlywr hlack-

ariii-wiiiLo pictures will be critically sharp fromcantor to very edge. Use it for color and marvel ni rne

hnllunco of your tranepaiencto*. This Sirrnmicmn

faithfully recorda natural colors cv&r the ent"'0

picture area without vionerunrj.

The Summicrqn i% a seven alas* element lens,

incorporating a radicnJIy new design principle ami

utilizing neivly 6VwrippEd htQh refraciiv* optical

glass comhinnd with air tenses rrf a special shape

find affect. Thia maka* prmsthta a degree of cor-

rect inn founrj in no other lens.

Sen—and u&o the matchless Summicrr>n. ttie

mot* talVotl-ahOiJt lera in Loiea history. Your fran-

chinwi ueale' has aM models of the Lexa equippedwih the spectacular new Surnrnicrort.

E. LEITZ. INC-. «rou«TwavL UCW YOftKIL h v.

wsmifl'jrns? r,r wobl n> f*w due products ofrnwr ixm wrrzue. crnwfo

AIR MAILED DIRECT TO YOU

W\c Ix.iiirihi! iG-^i.i-i "DimaitLi WrE^m.r*VfHi." felf* Mi lnlllr.Mil fiill-ciplniir phntngrunh* Hit- story

• il it'-liL'litlI

lit iniiulj- tin InvvK I -i!

11 t\i whrrc yoitf

li-UJfpLwl vucatinn iiu.ilt* you. At»il In "Ulicrr To Live

tn fti'mnula" you'll firvd Uk InMrl or pic*r Into* wImtoJim will i'0|oj 1u [^ifcvCuMi UrriimiU'i vniw. miliur-

rfwl lffi\ Write lor juur free copy of rmli Unhyl

YOU CAN CO Sfcftfe I* pUne . . . rtr

rrjiiBrrarufr ini yiHJl Hi rrinula % juiliiio— at no n*I |it 9 mi*

| Tnr Er.nwrwi Turns DmvrixirMKVT Bt>«#o

[fUtup wnd ine- wuhfMK Ltuitse, "ftiTtmirU W*fc*

< rrnnrt Vew"" RWl "Whrw To Ut» In lUrraiiiltL"

jV»IH»

Male

Mrt-liun the *UHunnl Gr-'tTJphic

—

U IrlrniiKu yuu.

Clu v ii>tc|'« -irikujj; Hc t Air 3p«n r .. Wifh 1 grmf urn

fccriet, Chevnjcr tfiftft rl>r mdr>i iluiicv of model* in U* HrM.

How Chevrolet's new high -compression horsepowertakes jfou more places on less gas . .

CVvmlct brings you the benefits ofhiuh-compression power wheihrr you nhorwthe inrghty I15-Lp. "ftlue-Hamc" eittfine

teamed with IWerglidr* autr"imtir trans-

rnissicin ai the advanced Uftbh.p. "Thntt-Kmg1

' rtigpnc with standaid lnuwrnk«U«ii.

And Chcvmlrt brings much moteyou'll Jikr beside \Miy not «Tnp in vkiii amilet Mnir nearby Chfvrnlrr dealer show y<w.

» . . Chevrolet Division of GcmraJ MotorsDerail 2, Mulligan.

HJfjmmu at extra rust Caxil'lmttintr af Pvzzrr-c-Jhtt ttutnmttiti iraninhiUn d/iJ //5*6,^_ "litue*

s!h muJ/u unty.

Von we lu'o pretty exciting kinds of horse-

power In uiti pirtLirr up there

Oifce w the Bffin'. fein:k:n\ four- legged kindthat nukes a rodeo a popular place to go-

I he othci kind it the *moolh. tjuier lior«e-

ptHycr or that <«panlcin' new Chevrolet.

'IV beauty of Chevrolet new power is

(Jus: It give* you urrarer accelrraTion andpacing ability. More "xtram" for Steep bilkAnd all on Ira* go*-ti Jor less ga*. And onregular ga« at ihaij

How can yfMl get mure power on Ir-.* ^a*?High rrijtipieMiiui U rhc answer. The turl

mixture \\ squeezed nurd? tighter w rJmr rhr

rngiiir wring* much more power out of it

MORE PEOPLE BUY CHEVROLET* THAN ANY OTHER CAR

!

CHEVROLET

"Thaw pearls are at rfltA-boffom prices—btff

I llfrfsf on Arrn-irrcan £ rpress TrovcJrrs Cheques,"

American ExpreTravelers Chequeswe but-known cHeaws in w wowo.'

There's nothing fishy aboat

American Express Travrlws

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1"

The Strange Case of the Hidden Rabbit and the Allergic Prince .

.

At Hie Faiieur Inatiitire in PoHv the »Iop, it

about an Orient ul Pnnue vtho vtutcd thn faronmmedical center. Warned in adwmoc trut the Prjnec

was aJIcrgic to rabbits, the lour wjiv carefully

planned to avoid all roruii% in whtefc ibe uninuKwere V cpt.

Someone, however. din*t*ted (Jul exposure la

rahoitxould pcraiNy Iv harmful tothe Prrmx So.

one of the animal* w» hidden In a room through

vhkh Ifoc lour was to g« Amaanjjy enough, uponentering that roam, the Fwvrthada unkrnr uHcnric

attack!

How doc* medical trience explain ihl* Mningcdisorder innup j% aftergv *

Doctor* *aV that an aJJergy i* not a distai*:, hue

;i hc^nVncd jrtt>iTjrv/> lo certain iurnt;irka;i—rwil-

kt\stdusti. ammal danders, cotton fillings, foods

rtnd drug*—tt> name a rew Ibe allergic person

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me h reamed, caicn. tout-lied or otheruiv crvcoun-

Lcrrd, Ihey «ri up a letftfkm which nwv apjvar as

a xluu eruption, a digestive upvi- Jieaduchc—and.

Hunt common U. .imIiitij cr ha* few.

Orcui advance* hove been made in rctom? not

only hay fever airTercns. but victrrrrf ol'other alfcr-

a* well. Tutliiy. for insuinix, then- are Vftjp of

identifying? the most obscure causes of allergy and.in many ca*c*. of Immuni/jng trie victim ui^amst

arte ul fending virnuiKc

Hits fj don< hy giving repealed, grfidual duwa of!He uikirv-produccr. Such trvnlrncnt— if nmWhtniaw fcwiy f/tr <t,'cr*T ri-i-i ^r/iwW.Y— may greatly, if

no* LL>mpkrLL'ly. renew allerpie symptom* m s$ per-

cent of the tu5c*. Some pontons, of course, are per-

manently relieved "imply hy avoiding contact ttilh

trunks Ilbwji EO he the source of their t

Though dunnlcr* .ire rnrvJy total, the

ftynjptuiut arc divl resting, and. in <esere cases, maycnu?*' *nch disconimri iiui both physical ami men-laJ health may suffer.

Although there it us yet m> "sure cure" for thevarious, iypes of allcrgees pnlients uho carefully

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I1eji*e wtl nic a copyOf your book lei,

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cvrr riylfil by 1'iuiu I'liriiiii i»f Kuni)ie—tliis urwNmhIi .Viu^uLHHMiitir "Gauntry Club"'

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«( \MIII

I see more and more movie cameras

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• uinJuil--. |r*n, pq you rum Folium

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Recommendation For Membership

IN THB

National Geographic Society* Tltr Mrmbemfup DueA, Which Ar- fat ilie Cain tutat IV* r. Jtrciiusfr

Subxcriptpnn rp 'Apt Nmtumml Cr "slraph.tr. M*j£m*tnr

To f/ic Secretary, Nannnal Geographic Socsety,

&rxtwith Mutt M Sfmnfip rV<irf/iir*s». Wy^Airrrtfun 6. D. C: fff5J

Address

for membership in T7*o Society,

Name of nominating member

Address*DttS: Aixannt m$m}ithh% 1* fnHni -SUiwl V. ». I'umivu^. «iul Cuwab, H.M, iiiujUi-k | n tfer ISertnf TTbI_U Th» ^mcrlc** Wil *^win. 5*,Or>' Mud i.' fHl l>Mi-l. -irtlitti. ilvnad. M.JJ. Li(r Mmrfirrsti^*1AT'0J t. f'»ni^. K^mliUtH'tf *l**-ulil In- inynMw td VhI**«iiiI »WJi|thk: S*ki«s RroklsiMm iiwifc «i«-rd» rtf

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picture" it as you iee •

Now !ofce carat to pictures in ibrUHngthro* «tim«rtKt4!3v - - . N»*Uy . , - eonhdrmtlywilh the new VtcW-MuMlot PctaOttuJ Slctca

Came-ia Imagine chose cn^rUh^d icona* oi

Family, In.-n^ vacoHons capturod in nat-

nro I color *r%4 depl|t...<3t 1**k than ctiapsHor

cosil For a picture thrill, ask your cameradealer tt> show you sloi#o photon made withiho nc<w Prrcanal Stereo Comoro.

personalstereo camera

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of

Fishes

THf NEW WiMm ednioR h( 1ha lomoBt beak prnrnht256 wif ond tri-iA-woi.t ii,iin end aquoTt* cvmlum «frtw U 1 l| ffBlMni IIC COLOfc PAlNffhVai. 91 phoioflrophi»u COi.OH and 170 is ihOhimIihwi end 15 fatciaatinq eh-as

RjcUi ftOLM, 7" « l0'-V\ 5650 in U. 5 & ,b*-•trr, S£ ?J ie U. 5. IuMl ficilags n prepaid.

StalkinqMi

with*

Co/or Camera to/Artfuir A. AlfenTfc'i UNIQUC. »J8 iktot »o*umc will. ' Vt FULL PA&U a4N*TURAI -COLOR PHOrOCiEAHHl nl wild b*!0L U -ttortathromc pirturri. a«d lj friarbum chopi*n, ppff-ltfa q vzhIsnd o* fM« iMluimufMin en falfd tKrfrflViM, frexn «ie Hol.on^lus*ff4pl>if Moflnnne Handuim^k bvufiij; 7" lO'i". 17 5tfir* U. 5. u feu,, Ji*«»if*r, 57.75, U. 5. ChAdi. Faitpa-i!

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How to

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Qualities of rfost-Np ibarpnes*

and brilliance , , - ihrmijth * lifetime «>f

i.orvice . . . can be fouile inio a bmocubrnriK ihrnuph Jihjntn! mciUifn. iSe-tljtfl

4itt1 precittan rtijnuf jciuri? That'* whymorecHitiinar Voters find jporUmcn than

ever before thin.^c ibe B.nmli & i.t)rrib

bixiKK-uljr. Hefnrc you hujr any binocular,

• em! for *-?-p;i«« free hi niUct. "BitHHTU-

\ar\ and Muw iu ( huuH' Tbcrn/* Write

Bauscb at Lumh Optical Co., I "920 LombPark. R«««.hcjWt 2, New York.

1

i.5- DCITA QUEENAll. CONDITION EP 1953

yirttuCl

20 DAYSftV OnlO-MJSStSSI^Fl «|VEFS

LV. CINCINNATI;,5t.pl 1 2 and Oct 3

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NATMMAI GLOGRAPHICS0CIErVl h«iLrT F W«la«(|«i,«.D.i:.

- 1 41 tic I & Dt:hv<-iL'i\ In.-.

Printers

tCHWOTOW R.AO A>4D FIOB^A AVtPJfJt

WAiMlNCtOM. &. C

TMl* MAOJi?IPUE IS OUN INOMH fc*€»«T

M<itijua lbs Njtional Ocvflijpbic— |t W.»niihri --joti

^^^^^^^fl

Till* II LUSTH.4T10N l> A 111 I'MOOIK t luN OF AS U << l« IN.\L NtEDLl lOlXl F.l k'l-ji I'llY.

WOVE INT INTO THE FABRIC

OF THE NATIONDaily, sa on a magic loom, the

count Iw activities of millions of people

nre woven together by telephone.

Home is linked with home

Business 10 business. Community td

community. City to city.

Friends and places nearby or far away

are within the reach ef a hand.

Without the telephone, time and space

would rush between ojs and each

would be so much done.

And 50 many things would not get done

BELL TELEPHONE SYSTEMt io wrrc the community. Nationwide tu «rm» iJie tutton.

Tha PtyttMito Savoy, tfiowti M Ira Meadow Broofc Polo flub. Long 1i|amt Nc* Vc>r4c

.4 . * *

*

Drffti/tif of lirniffn, quiet p/v«rf /r/jrfr in atflinty ami ftppttintmrttt* M**tw this car** tttticuritc *

fa ff*y am puny. Another mnuntr jn$tijtfurt$tn$ in Un mwhnnicxtl ejcrllrtire. its briiliant

tnyifitrrinfc .from tkf tuuv*t-]triccti firhh Plytmmth utvntr* ftanr tuSecicti the cur mtutl

/ifovrr/fy rtubfirril Hth 'find itft. thr cnrjrrtm which thrg milt mfsm thr ffmtfrst mlnr.

P L_VMOUTHChrrller C&rt»Br#tioti'* Hv. I Car